Air compressor : effective way to increase flow,impressive results.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- The stock pulley was 100 mm,wich i broke long ago,and was replaced by a 80 mm by error.
Going from 100 mm to 120 mm is more than reasonnable.
It's red,it's a v twin,it's rattling,no,it's not a Ducati lol
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I did a mistake at the end : 44.8 % quicker to fill up (not 47%) while rotating 43 % quicker.
The total pump rotation dropped from 4035 rotations to 3165 rotation per fill up !
That mean 21.5% better efficiency to fill up !!!
The reason the number of rotations to fill dropped is because not all the air that goes into the compressor through the intake makes it into the tank. The reed valve on the intake will leak some air. You have 2 effects happening on the intake reed valve. 1 is because everything is happening faster, there is less time for the air to leak through the valve. 2 is there is higher pressure on the reed valve pushing it closed earlier on in the initial fill up cycle. Then you have blow-by on the piston rings and any other leak that may be occurring. it all adds up.
A lot of people are saying you are putting too much load on the motor, or over-revving the compressor, but I cannot just say that without knowing the full specs of the individual units involved. I know how the process works from design to manufacture, and the designers may have originally designed that system with the pulley you put on, but the pulley they actually used may have been 1/4 the price so they made a last minute change and it worked well enough.
And don't forget the slip of the pulley. There is more strain on the pulley, so you have more Slip.
I doubt it. First your pulley change is 50% larger but you did not get 50% results. You probably reduced the life of the machine AND you never showed how much more electricity it takes.
120mm pulley MINUS 80mm pulley = 40mm
Which means the belt is traveling 50% faster.
depends on what the compressor is like. its common enough to run the compressors slower to keep them reliable.
very common to find cheap brands that will use a smaller cheaper compressor and spin it faster by fitting a bigger pulley on the motor. to get them reliable enough they reduce the max air pressure.
i suspect it will work fine provided you keep the duty cycle down.
The reason for the faster fill is adiabatic heating. The air you pump in gets hotter in the cylinders, expands, and fills your 100 liter tank quicker.
After filling, let it cool for 30 min, and you will see a pressure drop without a leak.
The increased drop between small and large pulley situations will account for the lost 3-4%.
Functionally operates just as it should th-cam.com/users/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Why would you be ?
Guess I'll throw in my two cents. I like your creativity. I did this exact same mod to my compressor a couple years back. Even your pulley diameters are very similar to what I had. I was doing a lot of sand blasting and my compressor wouldn't keep up, so I tried this before committing to buy a larger compressor. It did help increase the air delivery. I found the motor ran hotter, but not bad. The drawback I found was that it was producing much hotter air. Doesn't sound bad, but hot air is much more difficult to remove moisture from than cooler air, so I was constantly fighting moisture clogging up my sand blaster because my air drier couldn't deal with it. It got to the point where I just decided to go back to the original pulley, where I was able to remove the moisture. However, if your compressor isn't being used in high duty cycles like in blasting, then I can see where this would be a big improvement, since the air would have a chance to cool down in the tank. There are some [well known] companies that are using this pulley trick to reduce manufacturing costs. They are buying smaller (cheaper) compressors and running them faster to get the same output. Unfortunately, and what most consumers aren't aware of, is that it cuts down on compressor life and increases moisture problems. If you need higher cfm, it is always better just to use an oversize compressor at the same speed. Equals longer compressor life and cooler air temps.
I understand.
I don't use tools having problems with moisture,i just need air,so it's working well for me.
For sure it's a problem with an air dryer ,but you could cool air down before sending it to the dryer if you want.
A big air/air heat exchanger like a AC condenser from a car or a big domestic AC system just after the compressor help you a lot.
they normally work at 20 bars,so it's not a problem.
A good fan blowing on it would certainly work very well.
I have a video on temperatures/amps consumption coming soon with the modification i made.
An aftercooler is a good solution, especially using a home built desiccant air dryer like I have now. I want to take it one step further. I've been planning to make a video on converting a window ac into a refrigeration aftercooler/drier. I have an old 12,000 btu window unit ac that I'm going recharge and bring back to life. From that, I will be run the compressed air through another heat exchanger next to the ac output to condense out any water or oil, and attach an automatic drain to the bottom.
I'm interested to see your energy consumption and temp readings. It's something I didn't check on mine.
I think you should dump both in coolant ,in an insulated box.
you will loose less energy than with an air/air exchange.
air/air is not the best.
Good idea.
I decided to build my own compressor, and I have solved this by using VFD (variable frequency driver) and some logic - like when empty (pressure sensor) use higher RPM, temperature interlocks (motor and compressor equipped with temp. sensors) and various tweaks. Of course its a bit high tech - it could have been solved by using stronger motor, and conventional compressor construction approaches proven by years... but I am proud I made it work :-)
VFD will only help to save some energy.
It will not increase the potential of your machine.
max capacity is max capacity,vfd is used under this max level,and do not help to increase it.
temps sensors however are a good thing,to save components from a disaster...
Have you got some pics or video on it ?
michaelovitch VFD is used to intentionally overclock the motor rpms during initial fill up or lower pressures since the risk of overheating is minimal.As the pressure rises the load increases and this is signal to slow down to nominal rpms. Also several interlocks like those temperatures might get into action if anything goes wrong. VFD is also used as motor protection ( mainly overcurrent, failed start etc. My design has no blow off valve...therefore the VFD and some ramp up scenarios)
Its a really strange creation, but it works. Next time I will try to build somwthing like a compressor I will stick to more usual ways how to do it :)
Not to mention that having a pressurized vessel in some states without physical mechanical overpressure protection can be illegal.
JanicekTrnecka There's nothing like building something yourself, from concept to end product a d seeing it work (hopefully 1st run lol)
Title change suggestion: effective way to reduce the life of your pump and motor, results will vary.
and use a ton more power to run it ,, also load the start stop contact pressure switch
but then whats the point as it would just be better to go grab a bigger compressor from the start ,,
I have 3 a small 5cfm then a twin pot 12 and a massive 50 cfm 2x twin pot with 2 slow run (1440 rpm ) motors , its quiet and fills quick and runs real cool the pip[e from the pump to the tank has a heat exchanger and drier also (I use it soley for the plasma cam table ) and yes the colder the outside temps will make it work harder also ,,, @@householdhacks
Absolutely. May produce too much heat
Typically manufacturers produce the same product to save costs. The 5hp and 2hp etc models are probably all running the same motor different pulleys, so calm down
jy1235689 lmao you expect these folks to use their head? Nope to difficult. They just go buy a bigger one
Part of the faster fill time will be because of hotter air. If you want the compressor to last you also need to take into account the load the motor see's, and the increased rpm of the compressor head. These differences may not be linear either (a 40% increase in pump speed may reduce the life by more then 40%)
I don't know the specs of the parts on his compressor, but if lifespan of the tool is a concern to you you'll need to take the specs of your particular machine into account.
I have a different compressor with 1.8 HP that draws 11.25A. I increase the pulley by 20mm and I added synthetic oil with Tribo-MAX to the compressor it pulls almost the same amps as before. I should get the same lifespan from the motor.
@@jr0079 what about the compressor head? these pulley driven compressors last so much longer than direct-drive specifically because the compressor piston is moving slower.
@@animefreak5757 I prefer oil and pulley driven compressors. What I forgot to mention is it runs about 20-30% quieter and little cooler with Tribo-MAX treatment.
Hi I read a lot of negative comments and agree with some. But I like your presentation. And making small changes to equipment has been a life long thing of mine. I am an all trades maintenance man retired. I have modified many production machines myself and have watched engineers do the same. A small change in the pully size shouldn't effect your compressor's life much. Depends on how often you use it. A home compressor shouldn't even notice a lenght of life time change. If your motor starts fast as you say, then it isn't overloaded. So the motor should last a long time. Make sure to oil the bearings. As for the increase in pump speed I don't see a problem there either. If the pump's temperature increase dramaticaly there might be a problem. If oiling the inside of the pump is a problem then the pump would distroy itself very soon. So if it is running ok for you I think you have a success. An improvement that will work for most viewers. Good Job!
Hi,
thank you : )
i agree,the motor is sucking the amps wich are specified on its plate at full pressure,and the heads have car engine oil a 5w40 viscosity,wich is the same as the stock oil compressor 's one
It should be good for my application without problems : )
colten1d 60 yes I concur with your post. All the naysayers are sure disaster is lurking when the original engineering is deviated from. I believe that the motor pulley size has less to do with engineering decisions, and more to do with the fact that the "engineers" probably had a barge full of pulleys they needed to get rid of.
Wow a lot of arm chair engineers seem concerned with your project, where burnt windings come into play with a 20mm increase seems a bit sketchy. As a non commercial unit this will last you forever. Nice muffler setup for the air intake. Thanks for taking the time recording. You could make a air dryer out of a auto a/c condenser and filter, most effective if you can run it from the pump to the dryer, filter back to the tank, that way air is dry and cool before it gets to the tank.
Thanks for the ideas : )
I've checked the amps consumption when full load in hot summer ,it's exaclty what is specified on the motor tag.
20 % increase is ok in this case.
it can be a problem only if you have a barely appropriate sized motor.
Hi friend, I prefer it the other way around.
I prefer to reduce the ratio, I prefer a lower rotation, type about 700 rpms.
The compressor becomes even quieter, and improves its efficiency, spends less energy, but slows down, but becomes more efficient, and also boosts compressor unit life.
Correct. I think the lower RPM compressors are quieter and last much longer.
Just how do we configure the correct pulley sizes then for this particular machine to emulate this ??
I personally find that buying the appropriate sized equipment for my needs far more efficient and likely have a longer lifespan than putting my tools on steroids to achieve my desired needs. It would appear that this particular compressor is quite likely "Chi-Com" and will have a short lifespan without stretching the limits.
Good job I have done this to 2 larger compressors that ran a large paint and bodyshop for over 20 years and are actually still in service.
: )
He hotrodded $150.00 compressor, boho,quite crying
It helps muchly to put the belt on the little pulley first, and then, turn it on to the big pulley. This mod increases the load on the motor, and could burn it out. It can also cause starting problems. It will have less torque on the compressor to get it started.
Wow, look at all these compressor professionals
And they're right, that compressor pump is rated at 1050 RPM. He has it running at over 1500. It won't take long for it to fail.
Yep im here. ABAC piston compressors are built to a set pully and pump size. If that big pully swap was eny good, trust me they would of done it. A piston is designed to run a 50% duty. 4 mins to fill say ,then it should not restart for 4 mins. Making the pump run quicker will kill it in no time. But an odd use to blow up a tyre ect once in a blue moon and he should be ok.. see how long it lasts on an 8 hour day.
@@jonarmstrong6214 don't neglect potential for flywheel to fail explosively due to the significant overspeed.
If you make the motor work harder it will draw higher current. You should've taken a current draw before and then after to confirm.
The bigger pulley places more load on the motor and would by default, raise the running amps.
I've checked the current.
It's what 's specified on the motor's plate.
...And 70% shorter compressor life! ;-)
You assume the manufacturer didn't spec the same motor for a higher power application in the first place.
@@jy1235689 ikr, those 3hp motors can be run in either 110 or 220v lol, if you are running ont he 110v side, then yeah, the load will be noticeably higher, if its ran in 220v like the one im building, the load it takes to move tha motor will not be noticeable at all, at least thats how my motor is since it stars from 0 to 3600rpm much faster in 220 than 110v, but aslong as your motor amperage doesnt go over the one it was max rated to do, you will be fine.
This depends on the motor rating for duty cycle. Probably not as bad as what you predict.
I think the pomp is intended to last when turning at 1100 turn. I was explained that all the increase you get you pay in time, as for car engines. And also forcing the pump to give more air pressure, as 9-10bar creates heat hence humidity in the air. (but this is another question indeed,)
Thanks for the extraction manipulation without extractor.
As said under, motor does not start under load it cannot.
If the goal is to obtain more air flow (which is generally what we want more than some extra bar), add a second hand similar compressor with V pump, both tanks linked, a filtering unit, and you will have a good enough flow, for paint, or sanding tools for instance.
Interesting video but I will stick with the designed implementation on my compressor. Definitely agree with most folks that this will reduce the life of your system in one or more ways. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for expressing your opinion in a correct manner.
I can also increase its life by letting the small pulley that is smaller than the stock one.
Engine oil replaced the stock oil,air filtration is way better and reduce wear by abrasion.
There are theorical downsides,but real upgrades into this set up : )
It may balance itself.
michaelovitch I do like the air filter set up you have - much better than the stock setup!
Congrats dummy, you can't read, can you? The original 100mm pulley broke looooong ago and was accidentally replaced by the 80mm one. Instead of returning to the original 100mm pulley, he opted for this 120mm one. An increase of 20% over factory, not 50%. Given the "residential" use this compressor sees, with a duty cycle probably far below 30%, there will be no significant increase in wear on the motor.
@gregpearce why be rude = just makes you into a guy nobody will listen to.
@@donovanweber6059 - agree completely
It's heating up more from spinning faster, so the pistons are expanding more and thus it's a problem because the pistons are going to wear down the rings quicker.. and it's putting more load on the motor in the process.
Measure motor current and compare to what the plate on the motor says and adjust maximum pressure to fit the motor maximum.
Yes,i will.
Thank you for your constructive comment,idea.
Keep in mind that you may have to lower the pressure to less then 6 bar which makes the compressor sort of useless.
Your idea can work but i think you overdid it a bit.
As a general rule you can overload emotors about 8-10% without severe consequences provided ambient temperature and dutycycle(on/off time) are reasonable, when overloaded and on 100 % dutycycle it will fail, it will need cooling down time, the more you overload it the faster and more cool down time it will need to prevent burning to a crisp.
For the compressor pump goes the same, at higher temperatures it will develop carbon deposits in the outlet track from the valves all the way up to the non-return/un-unload valve and burn everything in its track in coal like misery if the bigend will not seize up and kill it, its only drip lubrication and not like a car force fed.
If you are prepared to lower maximum pressure to 7 bar (which is for most air tools the max) on a 10 bar compressor you also get some "unused" amperage and combined with the possible 9% emotor overload you could increase pump speed, lets say 20-30% ?, i think thats reasonable although you still need to keep an eye on the pump, emotor and run capacitor and use high quality/brand compressor oil 68 viscosity.
Lowering the maximum pressure can have two unwanted side effects: the compressor starts at a to low pressure, standard "delta P" ( differential) on basic pressure switch is usually a fixed -2bar from maximum adjustment, so maximum at 7 then 7-2=5 bar minimum pressure.
A pressure switch with adjustable delta P (0,5-2,5 bar) solves that problem and you have two screws to adjust pressure, one (big) for maximum and one (small)for deltaP/differential.
The pressure switch model you have may already have the delta P screw?
The other problem may be a thermal/power overload switch, if wound in the emotor or a fixed switch with reset button then new hardware must be bought: a emotor overload protection switch with higher or adjustable amperage setting like a "PKZ" (google it for picture).
The "extra" filling you get compared to calculation comes from equaling filling time to pump output and forgetting the cooling (and thus shrinking) effect of the tank in the calculation, increasing compressor output with for instance 30 % will give a time reduction of more then 30% because 80-90 degrees C hot gasses (?) get 30% less time to cool down and shrink back to room temperature and thus the tank fills up faster in pressure.
Last tip: a very good air filter replicates cool ambient pressure at the inlet port, i would make these hoses much bigger, like a (old) vacuum cleaner hose....
*I have a small garage and mostly just needed a compressor for tire pressure and the occasional air tool. I had been surviving on a cheaper brand for years until it broke.The difference is night and day. The motor fills the tank quick, it’s bigger than my old one yet less noisy, the regulated and tank controls are actually precise. Plus, it already comes with a lengthy hose and about any attachments you need for inflation.*
Good for you both.
Tire pressure is important to your safety,and this alone should justify the purchase.
here filling up tires is not free,and pretty rare to find a station to inflate tires around.
That's a crazy idea. Over-stressed motor, over-stressed pump. Too much heat, excess wear, guaranteed premature failure and potentially dangerous. In the long run it's best just to buy a higher rated unit.
The reason for the smaller pulley is so the motor has enough torque. The way the bigger pulley fits I wouldn't have put grease on it because it's a press fit. If it was a slip fit then the grease would ok. When your putting a belt on you put it on the smaller pulley first is much easier to get on. Now the motor is going to use more energy to turn the compressor. I like to know where to get that little blow torch I liked that! Live and learn.
The manufacturer /engineer could have supplied that ratio. I would be concerned about the recommended pump rpm.
I have a Wolfe Dakota compressor. 90 litre and supposedly 14CFM. Its more like 10 CFM. Although the pump is different to the one in this video. Mine, i believe, is manufactured by FINA. The large Pulley is the same diameter as in this video.
Motor is 2.2kw 3hp 2850 rpm.
Stock Pulley is 85mm o/d. Motor shaft is 24mm. So i fitted a 106mm o/d Pulley to get nearer to the 14CFM rating. It runs absolutely fine and has been running like this for 2 years.
I used an SPA100/1 Pulley with a 1610 24mm taper bush. They are cheaper than many Alloy one piece Pulleys and you don't have to heat them up, to fit them.
If my Motor is running at 2850rpm. My pump is now running at 1106rpm. Previously it was running at 887 rpm. I reckon CFM is now approx 12CFM.
I use it in a homemade sandblast cabinet and it can maintain a positive 95 psi, no matter how long i blast. I'm using a cheapo fleabay siphon sandblast gun with 4mm Ceramic nozzles.
Your machine is promoted as "slow running" on its ads on the web.
I guess they make them slow to make them "silent" lol
Slow is pretty bad for the reed valves wich leak back.
I suggest you to use car engine oil to be sure all is well lubed at this rpm.
I use 0w20 on mine now,and used 10w40 previously wich was the equivalent of the air compressor oil viscosity.
He the tapered pully was way more expensive...
@@michaelovitch I get what you mean about the reed valves. Faster is better. I managed to get a new spa100/1 pulley and 1610 insert for a tenner off Ebay.
www.ebay.com/itm/SPA100-1-1610-V-Belt-Pulley/141719797961?hash=item20ff2880c9:g:hewAAOSwu4BVwMDJ
and here is the taper insert www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1610-24mm-Taperlock-Bush-/141719786124?hash=item20ff28528c
Great way to burn up your motor by pulling too many amps or burning up the compressor by running too fast. Always check the specs on both before doing this!
m 88 I was just stating some facts. If the motor pulls too many amps it will damage the electric motor period. Second is that I have owned several compressors and if they were too small an output, I simply got a bigger one! Or buy the right size in the first place! Sorry about pissing you off!
@@noidontthinksolol tiny 16A fuse?
That "tiny" fuse is rated at 3680W for 230...
@@noidontthinksolol actually I only have experience with 230 since that's what we use...
"A welder with 140A" is not a benchmark since once transformer can ask for more power to generate that 140A and another can ask for less while an inverter will definetly ask for less...
Long story short electricity doesn't work how you or I want it to work, a 16A fuse will run anything that uses up to 3680W on 230V(it's math...not philosophy).
I actually have 16A fuse on the outlets where I use my welding inverter...so there's that.
@@noidontthinksolol maybe slap yourself while you're at it and read a bit on electricity befote you go all-knowing on youtube comments.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law
@@dalecain1158 AC induction motors will happily output far more than rated HP in intermittent scenarios without damaging them. The HP rating on these motors is the continuous duty rating. Due to how AC induction motors work, as the rotor slows under load, the "slip" (the physical difference between the rotor RPM and the rotating magnetic field in the stator that is determined by the frequency of the incoming power) increases. As slip increases the back EMF in the system decreases, which in turn allows more amperage into the system, thus generating more torque on the rotor. In essence, induction motors seek to match rotor RPM to incoming power frequency and if you load it down, it will automatically draw more amperage in an attempt to get the rotor back to speed. This is exactly why an induction motor draws an amperage spike when first started since the rotor is at zero RPM and little no back EMF in the system allows a massive in rush of amps to get it up to speed. This is also why variable frequency drives are used to control induction motor speed, it varies the frequency of the power fed to the motor. Note, that VFD's are almost always used in conjunction with 3-phase motors. Single-phase motors do not work well or at all with speed controls (that's a whole other discussion), but the same principles of operation of back EMF to amperage draw remains the same.
If the motor is continually run in an overload situation, then of course, it will eventually burn it up as the byproduct of all those extra amps is extra heat. However, if you run the motor intermittently it will run just fine. In fact, running electric motors in a temporary, but highly overloaded situation is exactly what electric dragsters do. They pump massive amperage into motors and build those motors to take the heat just long enough to make it 1/4 mile down the strip. Now, in the case of changing the gear ratio on his compressor, the change wasn't radical by any means. One thing of note is, we do not know if the compressor pump itself actually uses or needs the full 3HP of that motor when it is running on the stock pulleys. It'd be a poor engineering design if it did. To illustrate, you could swap out that 3HP motor with a 5HP motor, but gain zero performance increase if the same stock pulleys are used. Induction motors turn the same RPM no matter the HP rating (assuming they are the same number of poles). In this case, the 3HP motor showed no signs of struggling at start up (compressors, when filled, always start with a load on the motor). It is even possible that the increased pulley size has not even exceeded the motor's rated output, but without taking measurements in operation in the stock configuration, there is no way to know for sure. However, even if we assume the stock config used exactly 3HP, the up size in drive pulley is easily handled and any overload condition is intermittent...it is only in the overload state temporarily, for the 2.5 minutes it takes to fill the tank back up. Even better, once full, the pressure switch turns it completely off allowing it to cool before its next run.
As for the increase in pump RPM, this is also not particularly drastic. 1220RPM is still relatively low for a reciprocating pump.
I have a Campbell-Hausfeld 26 gallon, 2HP, 2-cylinder single-stage compressor that I increased the drive pulley size on 20 years ago. The compressor is still running fine today with the original motor, pump, etc.
Good idea. Next time you install a belt put it on the smaller pulley first and roll it on the bigger one.
Smaller pulley..... quicker turns
Nice job . Ignore them pros. They haven’t got ajar of glue, Put an even bigger wheel on mate . Love it , keep it up
Thanks : )
This one is big enough lol
I like to soak the belt and pulley in oil and apply a heavy coating of grease too. See, this will eliminate any squealing. Also, to get the pulley back on you can use a 10 pound sledge hammer and a chisel. Just be sure not to wear anything over your eyes because something could chip off and scratch the lenses. Thank you
It's a good idea to wear very loose clothing when working around moving parts. See, you'll stay nice and cool and you'll look cool as well.
been there done that on larger 3 phase compressors but most of your smaller junks like that one will not only draw away too many amps but will usually stop turning before it gets to the same psi it could achieve before you geared it up higher.. your better off leaving it alone but adding another air reservoir so you pressure doesn't drop as fast while using it. What makes a good long lasting compressor that keeps up with your air tools is volume.I have an old 3 belt two stage that spins so slow you can count the turns but it fills an old 500 gal water tank that I can use all day before it drops 10 lbs pressure so compressor hardly ever comes on. Any way you slice it that thing will never rest if your going to use it in a real shop and will get so hot your tank will always be full of water..
I paid for that "junk" and i don't grow money like cabbage.
Maybe you are used to fancy equipment,that's good for you.
Maybe you don't remember,or understand how they work,because your compressor had to fill up your huge water tank while it was empty.
So the time spent to fill it up once,is exactly the same than if you fill up a smaller tank more often.
It's just a question of air consumption on time scale.
By the way,water tanks are not designed to sustain the pressure a compressor can produce,so you are asking for troubles.
Also,a "real" shop is supposed to purge the tank regularly,and use oil and water separators/air condensers and filters.
A tank in florida will be full of water even it's rotating at 2rpm...
You might want to measure the cylinder hear temp. Check the temp at the old RPM, check it again at the new RPM. Not just during fill, work the compressor for a full 10 minutes. The extra temp is going to cause failure and lots of moisture.
Thermal paste on the pulley will help keep it from heating up the pulley.
I bet the LRA, locked rotor amps, and RLA, run load amps is above the rated amp draw
if the motors being overworked it will overheat and die or fail sooner.
Hi folks, I was working on my own compressor today and this is what I learned...if you want to upgrade your compressor for more CFM you need the motors RPM, and actually you have to measure the amp drawing with the factory pulley on if it goes around 10-11amp your safe to put a little bigger pulley on it if it's close to 13 amp don't do it you will damage the motor as bigger pulley more ampere drawing...this is just the motor end.
Air pump you need to know what's the maximum RPM for that air pump. as bigger pulley on motor more RPM and more heat and more airflow in the air pump...beside more moister. This are all the factors needs to be considered..
In my opinion if you want raise CFM safely change to higher CFM air pump which is suit for your motor if you want more you can upgrade your motor as well but that can be pricey...
What I did today I changed from 90mm factory pulley to 110mm pulley the compressor cut out at 5 bar as the motor vent over 13 amp just the fuse gone thank God...as I said more speed more amp drawing..so back to original pulley..
I hope this is helps someone who want to upgrade original compressor...
Yes it's all been good advice. But it's simpler than all that. You all can tamp up your compressors like I did off grid ten years ago and it's still running perfect..
Decrease the motors pully to a four to six inch and leave the compressor alone. You won't blow snot.
Love the comments...People so worried about this guys cheap compressor. Who cares....it's his. I hope it works great for his intended purpose. He's smart enough to know how to mod it. He probably knows any assumed issues.
It's about right lol.
Light duty, hobbyist type compressors should be left to light duty and hobby type work.
Typically the motor plus compressor design is way more reliable than the smaller combined unit design you see today. This thing will last just fine. Will draw more current, but that's fine. Most engineers don't design their components to just barely be in spec, this thing will last.
@@jy1235689 Yay! Someone that gets it! That's a cast iron pump, it will be fine with an extra 400 or so RPMs...and induction motors will happily output way more than rated HP for intermittent use just fine.
Family guy but still pretty good if your not worried about longevity
To all the naysayers with their instant criticisms of michaelovitch -- Ambient temperature as seen by the motor and compressor will have a big effect on compressor Lifetime and Efficiency. I looked at a lot of comments and did not see anyone asking about temperature there, or even what country he is in. I call that Jumping To Conclusions. Anyway, he can add extra fans to help with cooling, IF the unit is running hot. I am just disappointed that the makers of belt-drive compressors do not offer Salisbury Drive, which puts an approximately constant torque load on the motor, and spins the output faster at light load. That would be the best of both worlds... fill speed and final pressure.
It's around 35 °C during the video,so it's quite hot,the air density is low,and the cooling system on the compressor is not happy.
I have about 2 months per year maximum of this kind of weather,here in France.
I found nothing on the Salisbury drive : do you have some links ?
I 've measured how many amps the motor is consumming,and it's quite interesting...
I'm making a video of it ,with all parameters.
The flux capacitor is going to melt.
All this is fine, but the extra strain on the electric motor during the start up is spiking the electric meter and 2nd. The electric motor will not last under the strain working against the head pressure of the pump. The smaller pully gives more low in torque, the way to solve all the issues would be to install an adapted centrifugal VARIABLE SPEED Clutch, like one on a mini bike or go-kart. It starts up with the belt very close to the shaft then as it speeds up it expands which will increase the RPM thus giving more CFM. You all can thank me later, I designed this on my small 2 horse power Quincy and doubled the CFM output, I also installed an extension modified (my design as well) oil bath for the pump and only use synthetic oil, the oil increase allows the pump to run cooler than from the factory. I'm getting almost 16 CFM from 120Volt 5 Gallon tank, It's been working for three years now. My design goes against the manufactures best interest because they don't get to keep selling me parts or even better a replacement compressor. Stick it to the Man!
Compressors of a certain size (like mine)start up on zero load,there is a relief valve /one way valve wich allow a part of the circuit to bleed as soon as the tank is full,so at each start the compressor has to build pressure in this part of the piping before the valve opens to let air go in the tank.
If you doubled the cfm output,you certainly increased pump speed,so load on the motor by having a smaller demultiplication on the pulleys.
I use 0w20 engine oil in my pump too,it's better to lube,and thinner,so it's splashing way better.
My set up do not draw more amps than stock,i've checked with a amperage clamp.
It's maybe spiking for one second,but not more,i can't see it on the clamp,it's not refreshing its screen quick enough.
If you have a video on your machine i would be happy to see it.
: )
That pullwy should've had a set screw to hold it on the motor shaft.
Never seen that before.
Good job you have done a backyard Tweek. But if you want the compressor heads and cylinder to last don't speed it up too much. I recently because of health sold an old 15 CFM 2 cylinder compressor that I'd owned for 30 years. A slow revving built in Australia long lasting unit. Never touched it except to put new filters and comp oil in
Thanks : )
Now i have looked at all the comments,looks like I am not the only one that said wtf,I have been repairing compressors for years,the other comments made are very true,your going to have motor,pump problems and also cook your non return valve ,and when you said started it under load,,wrong.....you where letting air out,try turning if off just before it cuts out them try to start it, you will only do it few time times then fuses will blow,motor over load then you come and see me and i will fix your motor and rebuild your pump for a price..remember less volts=more amps and that fucks things..
Wayne Mckenzie if you are a compressor mechanic you should never ever tell someone to shut the compressor of during a load cykle you will
Put strain on the motor by starting again and its not something that should happen unless the power goes out let people do misstakes that is how most of the stuff you use comes to be
And if it works then why not (had this done on a compressor 10 years ago and my compressor works just fine)
ok firstly ,,i was correcting what was said about starting under load,pointing out what was said was wrong..
also i dont recommend any body doing what i said, thats something i do to see if the motor is going to fail ,when the pump and motor have the right pulley fitted for the ratio that is required for the pump to not over rev..eg..if the motor was a 2.3kw or 3hp,it would be a 15 amp,, power supply needed doing what was done would burn the motor out fry the start and run caps also...but if people that watch this so called good thing ,well thats there problem...
It started under load,there was more than 7 bars in the tank.
How could you cook a non return valve since it works only one way and only when the pressure in the tank exceeds the one in the pump piping.
i don't have fuses,only a breaker.
Unless i don't know something that you know i don't see what you are talking about.
You can shut off the compressor whenever you want as i know.
the one way valve do not allow pressure to go back in the pump,and even if it's failing you will just have a big leak in one pump through a valve assembly simply because that mean a reed valve broke,or is dirty and leaking.
If you're going to talk about something get it right....ok....clearly you think you know what your talking about but you don't...i fix and repair all kinds of motors and electric motors and pumps..yours is just a little one but the problem will still happen
i will put this in point form for you...
:you got one thing right..one way valve thats what its designed to do only air to the tank..
:if it fails the air leaks out the pressure switch doesn't mean the valves are broken thats another problem that made that happen over revving your pump, or dirty air cleaner, pump running to long over the duty cycle,are just a few.
: Also the oil the you will blow out your breather
:cook a non return valve, well seen shit loads all because people over rev pumps or running continuously but you will find out.
: and starting under load,, i was correcting what you said,letting air out to start it ,that's not under load,
under load is when the air pressure in the pump has not been released , this is where the pressure switch comes into play,
:and about the fuse, well you got me,one to you ,i still think old school...so how about we call it a circuit breaker,
: so your motor is what? what brand ? how many CFM ? whats the Lpm. ,the tank says 3Hp ,looking at your set up
:well i cant wait to see what your next comment is,, I suppose you're going to tell me you cant have a automatic drain valve.
A bigger tank or a receiver tank will not only give you more capacity, but actually make your motor work LESS. Added an old 80 gallon tank to my 60 gallon 5 HP and it results in the motor having to run less than half the time it did before. I know, much bigger than your setup, but the principle is the same. Between that and the after cooler I rigged from two old automotive oil cooler radiators, a couple of 12volt fans and a air horn tank to capture the condensation from the air before entering the tanks, I now have PLENTY of dry air to run my blasting cabinet and plasma table. But I did try your noise reduction but with an old go kart muffler. Works great, much quieter when the damn thing does come on.
That's a nice set up.
I don't understand how the motor would work less,it has to run the same amount of time to fill up the volumes you need.
Unless you reduce the pressure while adding tank volume ?
adjust lubrication to meet the new loads, and change bearings when they wear? and bam, you got it. this observation will be undeniably argued by (for all who in bent on longevity of pump and motor-in life one want's efficiency, and proficiency at the same time resulting in successful life of the tool at the #1 spot) all those who might not value or understand time that life has (promised lol) for each of us here. Life itself is on the same plane as this compressor or an indy car with its engine being the final and foremost factor in either wins or consistent finishes in the top 10 or 20. Fuel for the engine has to be the most important choice for the engine. you could on one had have an extended engine life by using lesser grade of fuel or you can use the best there is for top performance in the chance of overall wins. time in life, you decide what to run it on. who want's to be the most healthy 60 to 115 yr old, by gentleness at a young age? because at that age, your not going to be real happy that your able to see how different the world is. the cost of the air compressor and it's improvement is nearly negligent to the extra time waiting during all the cycles of a stock air compressor. besides, the upgraded one may last longer than your life may be. run it as hard as you can. all of it. your not getting a second chance.
5w40 synthetic oil
better air filtration system to reduce abrasion wear
21% better pump efficiency (The total pump rotation dropped from 4035 rotations to 3165 rotation per fill up) reed valves prefer this speed.
The 120 mm pulley is just 20 mm bigger than the stock one wich was 100 mm
the 80 mm i removed here was a bad order,so i'm in the really safe upgrade zone compared to stock.
I know what i'm doing.
I think. lol
what the fuck are you talking about
thomas robinson a good example of why people shouldn't smoke meth and comment on You Tube! Lol
You cannot help it you are born genius mechanically and mathematically .
Is it a sarcastic comment or no ?
What you think ?
I think it's sarcastic,because i 'm pretty bad at math,and because a lot of peoples make comments on how my compressor will blow up.
You are a good man,good luck with your next project.
Thank you.
Lets just hope it's not a new air compressor right ? lol
I agree with thought challengers comment about the motor amps and the maximum rpm that the compressor can actually run safely at I mean it's like running your car at high RPM all the time and I know putting a larger pulley on the motor could easily exceed the running load amps of the motor and drive it into the service factor it won't damage the motor but it'll definitely shorten its life and if it exceeds the service factor it will damage the motor
Good work and ignore the noise in the comments.
I did this mod myself last year (100mm to 118mm)... I did the calculations, I took plenty of measurements (temps, times, power consumption) and it worked great. You suggested you went from 80mm to 120mm (although your comments below suggest 100mm was the factory pulley)... I think that is why there is so much backlash in the comments as a 50% overclock from standard would be sketchy.
I'd suggest you get a power meter though, as you'll now be a touch over the motors rated power now, especially as you have a more efficient filter too (power goes up with increased air consumption). If the compressor isn't used at 100% duty or you set your pressure switch lower (less current is drawn at lower tank pressures), then you'll be fine. While there is an increased wear rate, it's partially offset by not having to run the pump as long.With a motor and pump like yours, it's just not an issue for a home user.
There are gaps in your knowledge about how this compressor works. You asked a rhetorical question, made assumptions and then answered your own question incorrectly. It's good to be cautious and it's good to ask genuine questions, but you need to be open-minded and willing to learn...
The pressure switch unit contains an 'un-loader valve'. At the point the switch turns the motor off, it opens a valve that dumps the pressurised air between the pump and the one-way valve on the tank (you can hear it hiss at 6:09) At the point of restarting, the motor doesn't see any significant load for several rotations.
Should the motor stall at any point, the current spikes and the resettable fuse will trip (pause at 0:24, fuse looks like a round button above the motor casing). There are several quite common reasons why this can happen under normal use and yes, a pulley that's too large could cause that too (but your house won't burn down).
You say "without its cooling fan..." . but he's running with the original fans on both motor and pump. I don't understand why you suggested this.
Philip Rathbone I
Maverrick2140
But theres a valve in the line going to the tank... after pump stops at fill up, it unloads the pressure at the pump. So when it demands another startup, when pressure drops, thete should be no more of a load on it, then when it starts from empty...
Or is this incorrect?
Philip Rathbon
Michael M he is right you know Jack shit about compressors which made your comment the more hilarious to read..
Allways remember if the manufacturer could make more money by selling it as a higher capacity compressor then they would have done it. The motor is perfectly matched to the set strain from the pump, by changing the pulley by so much you are putting double the strain on the motor. The motor is designed to run at a set RPM. The pump is made to run at a certain RPM, you will break the rings in no time.
The current used with the bigger pulley is what indicated on the motor's plate,so it's good.
Breaking the rings ? i don't see how : i use a good thin engine oil and it's not reving that much higher.
The reed valves do not leak back anymore at this rpm,it's way more efficient.
Limiting noise is often what limits design or performances.
I reduced noise a lot,and increased performances.
Check the playlist on it if you want,it's pretty cool i think.
Good idea for a paint sprayer that requires lots of cfm but not much pressure.
Yes thats impressive until the cheap pump grenades from over-speeding, or the motor over-heats and quits, or the pressure switch contacts burn out from the motor drawing too much current.
Homeowner mechanics please dont try this. If you need a bigger or more powerful compressor go buy one that suits your needs :)
This is too much load for that one phase motor and to much rpm for pump, it should be 1:3 pulley ratio...
the motor is starting without problem,very quickly.
the pump is at 1260 rpm wich is quite normal as i know.
If you have more infos or sources to give me about numbers ,rules or norms,i would appreciate.
I will take the amps measure on the motor just to be sure.
Not to mention he just significantly reduced his Pumps life. They Engineered it to last for a set time, and as explained in another comment parts that are used inside the head may not be suitable for the increased speed. If you need more Air buy a bigger Compressor.
sniff, sniff, what's that smell? oh nothing but the enamel and varnish cooking off the winding's :)
on a side note, the pump may be spinning to fast for the oil to "splash lube" properly
he had replaced the pully because the stock pulley had broken and he put a 80mm pully and it had a 100mm pulley, so he put a 120mm pulley
You should have used a CFM meter on intake on the stock filters, then put the CFM meter on your new fittings through the hoses, you then want that new air filter as close to the head as poss. I put a car air filter on mine but on head (oval tri power filter direct to cyl), the hose's and distance is a loss of air flow, the weak point on your is also speeding RPM up the cylinders past what they are engineered to take, mainly for intake stroke , == motor will over heat, if you run past the duty cycle it was made for, along with I see in your future of replacing the rods in the cyl and poss. the crank ! Quiet is nice, but duty cycle will fail under use ! A real improvement would be to enlarge the holes in head (if it had room to do it) to allow more air without restriction and slow the pump down for longer life to all > SORRY BUT BEEN THERE DONE THAT ! sad to say that the one I fixed up a couple of guys pulled into car port and stole it !! Hope they enjoy all my hard work !
Most of the noise is from the tank assembly and the thin aluma-cast pump. I run a heavy Cast Iron pump from Kellogg American on a ASME 380PSI Rated tank. While I am not say I am better than you, I make this comparison because mine is very very quiet without any significant mods. The point that I am making is heavy metals absorb and dampen a large amount of noise. With your thin cast pump, Install rigid isolator pads to reduce resonance into the tank, same thing on the motor. This is tricky on belt driven items due to belt tension so the isolators must be laterally stable. Then put dynamat on the bottom of the tank. ll that with your intake mod should really quiet the thing down.
This one is cast iron too,but it's not a high quality one.
Like you say,most of the noise is amplified by the tank.
I 've tought about hockey pucks,or even engine mounts,wich is better ,it could work pretty well.
Dynamat is a good idea : )
how could you do a vid of changing to larger pulley with out checking the amp draw of the motor
This was my thought. Motor RPM and Amp Draw? Overspeed over amps! More work more energy more heat = cooked windings! But he did foresee the compressor failing sooner due to overspeed wear.
@@Maverrick2140 those motors draw out as much amp as they need to match the speed they are rated for, aslong as the motor amperage under full load doesnt pass the max rated that it was built for, you will be fine, the amp rating on those motors are for continuos nonstop running, but they will happily output more power intermittently, which is prety much how the air compressor work, intermittently running until its filled.
Since the driver pulley is now 50% larger(circumference) you would expect 50% faster speed, But, the faster speed is working the compressor harder causing more strain on the motor hence slowing it down just a little. Also, the speed will be faster when the tank is empty, but as it fills up the pressure inside the tank pushes back against the pressure coming in, so the speed slows down at the end. Bigger drive pulley for more speed; smaller one for more torque.
The factory pulleu was a 90mm.
I damaged it,and replaced it by a too small one.
I bought a 110 mm then,so the increase in circumference is not 50%,but smaller.
The compressor itself do not work harder,the pressure is exactly the same than before.
It rotates a bit faster,and i discovered that was beneficial,because the reed valves,working faster do not let air leak back before closing.
So it's more efficient than before.
The motor do not consumme more amps than before,so the load is not more important when running.(same pressure on the compressor head than before)
However it's maybe consuming more amps at the start up,i can't tell ,my amp clamp do not refresh fast enough for me to see.
Like i said ,the pressure is exactly the same than before,i didn't modify the pressure relief valve,or the pressure solenoid switch,but only the speed at wich all is filling up.
It's quite a safe modification.
It's also running 0w20 engine oil,wich is way more fluid,and higher quality to lube the compressor itself.
LOL at all the butt hurt comments. Fact is none of you supposed critics has any idea the specs of his motor or the actual specs on the twin compressor. Without those specs you can't say diddly squat with any authority. Go get some ideas on allowable compressor rpm by looking up the individual components to build your own compressor. The ones I have been looking at would easily run like he has his set up. You think the manufacturer made that setup right on the margin of failure? Yeah that wouldn't surprise me much either. Doesn't look like it in this case though.
No question about that,,,,,,But it's 90% that all the "BUTT HURTs" are 1000% correct. Time will tell, but I'm betting on a rod failure.
Nah, other stuff will give out way before rod failure.
I understand duty cycle. lol What is your point? You think he went down to 5% duty cycle? lol I haven't seen a compressor yet that had duty cycle problems. My welder yeah. And don't think I haven't worked my compressors hard too. I had 3 working together before to give me enough air for my project and I still didn't have enough. They ran nonstop for two, almost 3 days. 2 of them were home built but not by me.
well 27 years in the industry as a technician does give me licence to talk with authority and that pump will have a max rpm of between 700-800 rpm, you are over stressing main bearings , rod bearings and wrist pins and journals. Not to mention increased flex with the reed valves that will be snapping off on you
@@hiredgun7186 That pump is rated for 1250 RPM
LT100 Mecafer compressor - 100 l - 3 HP
Powerful, proven head, full V-twin cast iron. For sanding, grinding, bolting, chipping, painting on large surfaces and other uses of pneumatic tools. Stretcher complete with 1 swivel wheel. Lubricated.
Characteristics :
Power : 3 HP
Voltage : 230 V
Volume tank : 100 l
Max. Pressure : 10 bar
Cylinder : 2
Rotation speed : 1250 rpm
Suction volume : 360 l / min
Volume restored at 7 bar : 240 l / min
Fast exit : 2
Thanks Mike! Just exactly what I was looking for, to increase the efficiency of a small compressor. Running a small gravity feed hand (sand) blaster, it just can't keep up. I'm doing a refurb on a truck toolbox, but I'm using baking soda in place of sand. AGAIN! THANKS
: )
Be sure the motor can handle that by looking at how many amps it's using.
My motor has this big ole red reset button on it !!!!!! This thing was bought back in the 70's, when a few things were still built to last. And it has be sitting for about 20 years. I plugged it up and away she went...all I'm using it for is to try and help my BIGGER compressor keep up with the media blasting. Probably won't be running long at a time. Let me know how your compressor holds up, or if you have a heat problem.
No problems for now,one year later.
i used it several hours straight to break tiles with a air hammer,it ran good and wasn't overheating.
i use 5 w 40 engine oil in it to have a good oil film : )
I got my pulley on, changed the oil, and fired that baby up. 6 min to 90psi. It dropped off to about 40, not sure on that, but it kicked on 4 min to 90 psi. I had a 2 inch pulley on the motor, went to a 3 inch. Worked fine, starting and pumping. Only problem! Over the 20 years it has rusted a pin hole dead center of the bottom....Bummer Man!!!! next project! I'll just hook the compressor in the line of the other compressor, and do away with the tank. I see a small grill in my future. Enjoyed talking with you, best to you, and may the LORD bless you and your family. P.C.
As long as you have enough flow to keep the pressure up to what you need in a tank , whatever its size,you don't need a bigger tank : )
Tanks are just to compensate for the drop and lag in the pressure to build again,when you start to work.
It's like a hydraulic accumulator i guess.
Thanks for your good words ,and nice work : )
Keep an eye on the motor amps consumption when it's well warm.
Um...... You should check the amps on that motor now that you've increased the load. And I hope the compressor is ok with running that rpm for a long period. Look at it this way, why would the manufacturer not put that size of pulley on that unit to begin with? I mean if your correct then all they have to do is install a larger pulley and they can then change the writing on the box that it comes in and sell twice as many for the same cost. I do like the idea but it's not always as easy as a pulley swap, you could be ruining the life of the compressor and or motor.
To answer your question, it's because if I'm required to provide 2 models of a product to market, why not make the cheapest change in production to make the 2nd unit? I.e. change the pulleys.
Meaning I already made the better one, how do I make the cheaper one. You don't typically design the cheaper "weaker" product first.
I just found out about a new invention for when you are using a torch (keeps you from burning your hands). Called "GLOVES".
Get a pair. You'll be happy you did.
I have around 30 pairs of gloves in a box.
No kidding at all.
That belt is no were near tight enough !!!!!
This puts a greater load on the motor. If it is sized for the load at the factory, this will overload the motor and will cause it to run much hotter and greatly shorten the motor life, and/or trip the electrical breaker.
But that engineering concept typically applies to the top tier product only. Cheaper to design 1 and reconfigure the several other models from the same parts.
Don't they make gloves to keep from burning your hands?
I would have checked if I could cut the slot for the motor mount instead of getting a new belt. But nicely done improvement
Thanks.
Yes it is a good solution as long as the pulleys do not hit the plastic guard / case.
thats one way to destroy a compressor🤣
He says his original pulley was larger than the one he replaced. The original was 100 and now he went from 80 to 120, so he's only 20% larger than the one that was there from the factory, which was 100mm.
even fitting a larger motor will probably cause compressor to seize using a synthetic oil might help. compressors usually suffer from voltage drop and have trouble starting under load this mod will exasperate the problem.
It's running on 5w40 combustion engine oil.
It's pulling the specified on the plate amount of amps,not more.
Being conservative on the puleey's diameter will not blow things up.
it's took only 20 % from 100 to 120 mm.
Each time it's starting it's not under load for few seconds,because the pressure regulator is leaking by design until a specific pressure isn't reached.
As soon as I saw the torch....click!
I don't worry about the crank seal it's okay
Have you got an electric power meter like a Kill-A-Watt that you could use to see how much extra power the motor draws now that you've changed the pulley size?
You will be putting more load on the motor changing the pulleys but there may be room for that in the original motor selection.
One thing you could do to stop the issue of starting the motor under full tank pressure would be to add a electric dump valve to the pipe work between the pump and the tank, you may have to install a non-return valve on the tank though.
The dump valve would allow you to drop the pressure in the pipe and thus the pump starting load drops dramatically and then when the motor and pump it up to speed close the valve again. Something simple as 1/2 second delay should be ample.
When the motor stops again then the dump valve disengages and releases the pressure on the pump allowing for a easy start next cycle.
AvE in his channel do an a impressive mod with a plc with vco, simple and impressive result and dont need to worry about amperage, but...... plc as far i know are expensive
That dude am a fan
Put the belt on the small pulley first and work it around the larger one while rotating it and a belt on the verge of being too short can be installed... then you can burn up the drive and blow up the driven more quickly.
will you do a vid on it failing if or when it dose ?
agreed i just didnt want to be as much of a downer ... ive seen plenty of compressors over driven and drop there pistons as shrapnel in the oil res ...... mechanical workshops and apprentices ;)
Sure,and i will show you close shots of the sharp cast iron pump's pieces stuck in my bleeding legs and testicles because it blew up while i was inflating a tire, with the house in the background ,burning because to much load on the motor,and the insurance company yelling at me for the fire i caused ,followed by the hardware store employee canceling the warranty, laughing at me.
I will, i promise.
Kewl..
I will ,just be patient.
michaelovitch
Hahaha
also wont the rpm increase for piston and rings maybe bring the temp up a bit. put more strain on em. nice but mite have less life span. im sure there is room for play from stock the question is how far can it be pushed. ive pushed things before and they took it. nice idea
Way too much load for that belt, compressor will overheat if used too much.. .. but that said it's a homeowner unit... not a shop.. won't be used all that much.. ... need more air... cheaper than another compressor..won't last as long but .. meh.. probably be ok for as much as he uses it ... keep it @ 100 psi max.. .. who knows.. ?? I might have tried it with 100 mm don't think I would go 120.. but he's happy :) :) :)
100 mm was the stock one ; )
i broke it ,and replaced it by the 80 mm i remove in the video.
So i just increase a little from the stock set up.
Good work mate, nice fill up time.
Thank you : )
Dont do this at home this guy dont know what he is doing its bad for your motor also you can blow up your motor
You tube has some real misinformation by people who love to show off limited knowledge!
Granted read the label on the motor but it's probably underused to begin with. That means this is fine
You know they make this thing called a pully puller. Makes changing those pullies easy and third degree burn free.
That belt is not tight enough. Your going to wear that belt down quickly
Max compressor head heat 225 f once you regularly exceed this you shorten the pump life
Bruh take this down before people start frying their motors and pumps lol
It's good for businesses...
He is not saying to do it he is showing people how to make a little more with what they have. more power to him. U dont like the idea dont do it. Some peeps can't afford new stuff and would like a little better even to just get by
I always wanted to see the machines, I like it a lot
: )
Very bad advice. If this was the way to do it, wouldn't the manufacturers have already done it?
Definitely taking a chance at cooking the windings out of your motor. I am sure most manufacturers have the motor spec'd with the largest pulley they can handle when you buy them. Unless you have a industrial compressor. If they could get away with just putting a bigger pulley to bring up the cfm they would. Its still a good idea you just have to watch your motor temp. I just would'nt want someone doing it and it costing them hard earned money. Once you burn a motor your better off buying a new compressor.
I'm pretty sure that you are over amping the compressor motor by increasing the motor pulley size. Run it like that long enough and you will burn up the motor.
Don't you think that if that really was a good idea and more efficient, the compressor engineers would have already made it that way?
You beat me to it, I was going to post the same. :)
Congrats dummy, you can't read, can you? The original 100mm pulley broke looooong ago and was accidentally replaced by the 80mm one. Instead of returning to the original 100mm pulley, he opted for this 120mm one. An increase of 20% over factory, not 50%. Given the "residential" use this compressor sees, with a duty cycle probably far below 30%, there will be no significant increase in wear on the motor.
Thats all well and good but if you dont do an amp draw on it to see if you put too big of a pulley on you'll be overheating the motor and or tripping breakers. I use adjustable pulleys and read the draw until the compressor shuts off because the amp draw gets greater as the compressor pumps up. I initially set mine up about 2 amps below what the data plate on the motor says to allow for the amp increase for when the motor starts heating up from when Im working the compressor constantly for air tools..... this has always been a good starting point for me and then I can fine tune from there if I need to
Here the amps drawn are the ones indicated on the motor specs plate while finishing to fill up in 35 °C weather.
You method is pretty good for setting up a system,thank you for sharing that.
: )
The current will be through the roof and the emotor will somehow fail, either the overload/thermal will stop it or the motor will burn out if you dont lower the setting on your pressostat.Small cheap commercial compressors are usually setup to 100% emotor load at their max pressure, the do surfive 100% onload but just barely, you just increased motor power consumption at least the same amount you increased air output, somethings gitta give....
Congrats dummy you just showed people how to burn out the motor. The manufacturer of the compressor know the correct pulley size for the rating of the motor
He might be fine, hopefully it was over-built to begin with. I was considering cobbling together some stuff, then realized that, yes I can make things work... but I want 100 percent usage duty cycles and other engineered qualities.
Andy Tyler exactly. He didn’t “improve air flow” he simply overdrove the pump.... lots of engineering went into this, you know?
Congrats dummy, you can't read, can you? The original 100mm pulley broke looooong ago and was accidentally replaced by the 80mm one. Instead of returning to the original 100mm pulley, he opted for this 120mm one. An increase of 20% over factory, not 50%. Given the "residential" use this compressor sees, with a duty cycle probably far below 30%, there will be no significant increase in wear on the motor.
Pendejo, así le vas a dar en la madre al compresor y vas a quemar el motor.
Guaranteed that when he changed the sheave he didn't take in account the service factor on the motor or calculate the new bhp or new amps with that size pulley. Second you are now pushing that pump past the rpm limit it was designed for.
Meanwhile I took a 4 inch pulley of a burned motor last summer. It was supposed to be 2.5 inch. I was told they figured the motor was on it's way out, it's been slow for years. As in never reaching starter circuit kick out.
I went up from 100 mm to 120 mm ,i didn't went crazy.
Ok Guys,lets make a word record happen who is with me,I would like the dislikes to beat the likes.
Obviously it is the owners choice to do what he likes, it's his compressor, but, overspeeding the pump will result in increased wear, possibly even fatigue failure of reciprocating parts. These pumps only have splash lubrication, so things can easily get marginal. I would also check the running temperature of the motor after it's been running for a while.
There is a speed rating for the compressor head be sure you are not overdoing it you will also increase the wear on the moving parts. Better to purchase a compressor with the proper pressure and air volume needed.
I agree.
I have limited money,and i use 0w20 engine oil,wich is way better than the oil supposed to go in there.
I think some people watch video's like this so they can make them self feel good by being a know it all. when in reallity most couldn't be more wrong ! Its good to see people being inventive. great job man. keep it up
Steve Lamperta he made the video for people like you. "Oh that's a great idea".
New pulley sounds like it’s putting a lot of strain on the pump.... if anything, I’d look to a “billet” pulley for less rotational mass, but that’s way out there since a lot of these pulleys are cast aluminum and are not to much heavier than a billet Cnc machined pulley. If you have a “steel” pulley, you could net results with an aluminum swap possibly
The pump rotate quicker,but it's in the speed range of what's those V twin pumps are sold for on the internet.
Yes,the less mass you have ,the better it is.
I could get a lighter pulley on the pump,it's cast iron.
It would do better.
BUT you have ALSO moved the motor's service factor higher - faster RPM at the pump will need more input power from the motor, and you could have it burn out prematurely, or pop it's circuit breaker.
The amp drawn is exactly what specified on the motor plate while being full load.
You have just overloaded your motor!
Excellent storytelling mechanics .... very well made video.
This will only make the pistons work above the recommended capacity, as they eat larger pulleys, will work faster, consequently shortening their service life
most of these small compressor pumps have splash lubrication. The higher rpm will aerate the oil and reduce lubrication.
The oil is not foaming,when it's running,at least on the oil level glass.
You can see movement however.
I use 0w 20 car engine oil,there are anti foaming additives,like in a bunch of engine oils.
I can't gaurantee there is no foam,but it doesn't look like it.
First of all, you are measuring how many rotations your pump performed based on time, but it is now spinning much faster since the circumference of your pulley is bigger, so the revolutions stayed the same. It just generated more heat, considering things wear faster when heated, you just shortened the life of your tool. The torque required to turn that new system also just went up which means you are drawing more electricity and are potentially out of the margin of error for your electric motor.
The compressor went from 885 to 1266 rpm.
Those pumps are sold as 1000 rpm pumps,so it very close.
Wow, it's encouraging to read these comments made by knowledgeable people although they seem a bit too aggressive (a sign of insecurity). In a way their all right although knowledge of inductive loads and how deviation from spec rpm affects current draw was somewhat pedestrian, even incorrect. Whatever the result of his mod the video sure did cause an interesting response even diving into the existential.
The amp draw is spot on ,exactly what's mentionned on the motor plate,at full load : )
Checked with a clamp.
Bigger pulley, more rpm. Getting hot, piston- issues, (hope not).. These prosents, you are seek, (43%-47%) are not increase hand to hand.. Hope it last for few hours.. Good luck 👍
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