Sam have removed my rear subframe and completely stripped, removed top and bottom wishbones, removed diff unit and parking brake unit. The subframe looked really bad however the frame was very solid, needle gunned treated with the 661 then coated with zinc primer and 3 coats of 2k black. the wishbones were also solid, power wire brushed, treated with 661 then painted with lidl black spray 3 coats. Rebuild was carried out on a stiffened 18mm ply with 4 heavy duty wheels fitted. Just enough room to slip under the car that was on Jack stands at max. All rubber bushes were renewed (not the 3 diff bushes) the bearings, air bags, parking brake cables, abs cables, brake pad cables, discs, shoes brake pads and all shoe fixings, top wishbone to knuckle bolts changed these had to be cut, the inner bolts for the toe links were also cut so renewed. all flanged zinc coated flanged nuts replaced and copious amounts of aluminium anti seize on all bolts. The inner of the subframe was sprayed with Lanoguard. Tomorrow will treat the chassis as you are doing in this video. By the way the car is a 4.4 tdv8 2011 Autobiography silver. Supreme comfort average 24 mpg on a run 30. Have been on the car doing the subframe etc just under 4 weeks, retired so time is no problem. Have had the car 9 years now. Always enjoy the show sam thanks.
Just a few points, the sills are multi-layered, it's worth taking out some of the plastic bungs and injecting in there. Also there are bungs inside the rear wheel arches that let you inject into the wheel arch edges where they rust out from. You can also inject form inside the boot by removing the side covers. The jacking points are removable and worth a quick spray inside. I haven't tried Lanoguard and used a well known wax product slightly thinned with white spirit.
I discovered Lanoguard last year and what a fantastic product. Sprayed every part of the chassis on my Corvette, I now keep a bottle with my tools and ever time I do some work on any of our cars I give all the metal areas where I have been working a quick spray for added protection.
After the cleaning and rust converter I would use some epoxy primer then something like stonechip / raptor liner then a final coat of a Lanolin or wax product to get in the areas you cannot. P.S great video, pity more people don’t do this to their car’s regular
Everybody has their favourite ways of treating rust. Personally I like to use a converter gel like Bolt Hamber Deox to get the bulk of rust converted to good metal before one of t the phosphoric acid based treatments (that go black). I don't like painting straight over though so I prefer to sand it back with 800 grit so that it only remains in the pits. I then use an epoxy mastic paint, either sprayed or rolled on, and then top coat with a 1k enamel. This gives a really solid and tough finish, which then gets overheated either with a rubberised 3m spray (not the disgusting tar one) or BH Dynax wax - I've not found the lanogaurd to be as long lasting, despite both using lanolin derivatives. I also don't like the highly regarded BH zinc primer as a base, the epoxy mastic is far, far superior, especially if applied to sandblasted steel. The other thing with this is that I find a scotch wheel on the grinder to be more effective than the wire wheel as the wire polishes the steel and makes anything you put on less likely to stick. Blasting is best, but either a sanding disc or a scotch wheel are a good alternative. Just my 2c from restoring a few cars over the years, the current one being an old Impreza (which means lots of rust!). I also like to get marine grease into all the corners before rebuilding too, it's good stuff.
That's no criticism of what you've done @samsmotors btw, and I appreciate you've replied elsewhere to say this was a more efficient way to do it. Without actually removing components there's a limit to what is a reasonable solution! One decent half way house paint option to add on as an extra layer (I use it on brand new OEM Subaru parts) is Simoniz Tough aerosol paint which is an enamel. It takes a few days to get fully hard but it's a really tough option for chassis parts underneath, especially if you then overcoat with a wax of some description like BH Dynax or Lanoguard.
Good advice, I have a venerable 2002 year L322 (3.0 TD6) which I keep in Latvia, and it had accumulated a fair bit of rust underneath. After a mechanic commented on it, about 5 or 6 years ago I started giving it anti rust treatment each year. Well, not me personally… I took it to my local branch of “KROWN,” a Canadian company which knows about the ravages of harsh weather & salt on roads. The initial treatment was very comprehensive; after removing any loose surface rust they steam cleaned it, and then applied their “T40” compound to every nook and cranny. They even drilled tiny holes in inaccessible cavities including doors, and pumped it in through a tube. They also did the engine bay & spare wheel compartment. T40 is an all in one product that converts existing rust into an inert compound and simultaneously leaves a waxy oil-like layer which sticks to the surface to prevent further rust. The beauty of it is its penetrative qualities, if applied correctly it continues to seep its way into the most inaccessible areas in the following hours & days. Since then, I have it redone every year, alternating between a “refresher” treatment and the full original treatment. I try to do it each Spring because it’s an opportunity for the steam clean to remove any winter salt deposits, although with the treated surfaces they not really going to be able attack the metal. Now I have the satisfaction of a Range Rover that is rust free, more than can be said for most Range Rovers half its age. I still get comments from the mechanic, but now it’s more like “this is the cleanest example I’ve ever seen for its age!”
Thanks for this video Sam, I might ask somebody to do that to my 18 year old L322 mk3 td6 HSE (3.0 litre straight 6 diesel BMW M57 variant); Unfortunately I'm not well enough to do it myself. I've started practically rebuilding it already (I'm lucky enough to have a friend who does all the work on it for me & cheaper than a garage) & only bought it last Good Friday, so may as well cure any rust & stop it getting worse 🤔 What i don't understand is, if a vehicle manufacturer is producing & selling a vehicle in the £70k to £100k price point, when new, why don't they galvenise the ladder chassis & parts that are known to rust, especially as it's a 4x4 (AWD) & on the V5 Log book i believe, & certainly whenever i look it up online for parts, mine is classed as a diesel off road vehicle, so they know it's going to rust & galvanising the chassis & various panels & parts underneath would've been a good thing, surely 🤦♂️🤷♂️
Also, & i know this is unrelated to the topic of this video, but I have an electrical issue, if you have any videos on that, my cigarette lighter 12v sockets measure 12v until I plug anything in, then it drops to around 5v & won't even charge my phone. I suspect it may be a relay in the fuse box, in the driver's side rear wing, but the owners manual just forbids owners to remove them, saying to take it to a dealer. It's driving me insane 🤷♂️ If you have a video on this, can you give me the link so I can sort mine out please? If not, no worries & thanks anyway.
Sounds like it might be shorting out internally when something's plugged in. If you can replace just the socket itself, I reckon it might sort the issue.
Sam one thing I think you have missed is that on the outside of the sill panels there are numerous 20 mm odd plastic bungs you can take out and slather your sheep dip lol inside. I've got the dreaded tin worm in the ends of the sills and all round the wheel arches and along towards the rear of the car just above the plastic bumper on both sides. It pretty horrendous and there was no sign of it when I bought it just 13 months ago. It had been filled and blown over and I missed it. My fault and I'm paying for it now. I paid very good money for it and I know the dealer had got it repaired. Bastard! But caveat emptor and all that lol I paid good money because it is an Overfinch model with a full Burr Walnut interior and Alcantara dash that alone was £1500. I have the original Overfinch bill and on top of the £75 Grand the car was the Overfinch bill was nearly £23 grand! Ouch! It's a 2006 4.2 Supercharged and the engine and box are sweet as a nut and really goes like stink when I want it to. It's also on LPG so I get reasonable economy even if I get slightly heavy right footed lol but with LPG at around 80 pence a litre I can still afford to run it. It's probably cheaper to ride around in the car keeping warm and leaving the heating off indoors! I bought 2 gallons of Waxoyl and after rust conversion everywhere I can get to I will slather it inside and out with gay abandon. No ! Don't go there!
Wish mine was that good. My 02 Td6 failed its NCT just before Christmas due to excessive corrosion on the rear subframe. It was rotted out on the front most point where it mounts to the body. Subframe swap required. Car is abandoned in the yard while I decide whether to scrap it or have a go at saving it. Motivation is low at the moment.
Another good idea is to get hold of freelander arch protecter and fix to lip on rear wing to join up with the bit Land rover did cover. You have to trim to size but when I did mine I packed the back of the return with some lano grease I bought back from NZ with me 8 years ago . I fixed the trim and packed more lano grease to stop any build up of rust causing mud and road grime. The arch protector stops the stone chips that the unprotected arch is prone to.
I always remove the wheels to get better access to the undercarriage. I’ve always used engine oil thinned out a bit seems to work as I’ve never had any rust problems.
Hi Sam, you have solid Range Rover. Even with the mileage. Great buy. I have a td6 l322 for now. I will get another tdv8. I have to weld up the sills. The jacking point has rusted. I will git it re-strengthened for the test. It will be safe to jack up on the back corner when done.
Good job done, don’t suffer quite as bad with corrosion here in France (don’t use salt on roads), but I might check mine out at some point to be sure. 👍
I'd say yours will probably be like new. Here in Ireland stuff seems to literally stay wet for 6 months of the year and never gets a chance to dry out. Any nice farmhouses with outbuildings for sale near you? 😅
Great job Sam, you should be well set for a while quite a satisfing job. Did mine about 18months ago rear aches out and used Aquasteel seemed to do similar turning rust to black 👍 then Lanoguard over the top, 6months ago I had side sections off and had same amount of dirt fall out! Rust hadn't started to set in so cleaned and Lanoguard. Touched up a few areas with black paint. This summer will go over again with Lanoguard. Painted rear exhaust box too as wasnt looking great. The front section of the rear arch I painted as well and then fitted weather strip to it and bought new strip for the rear section as existing was not in great condition. MOT guy always comments about condition of underside compared with others he sees👍 keep it up. Looking forward to your next one! Cheers
You did a great job here Sam … I did a quick undercoating myself and painted the air tank but I still have to uncover the door sills and do it there also! Loved the video👍😀
I'd really advise top coating any rust converter with paint, then the rust treatment you applied. As a Part 2 for rust prevention on an L322 and stopping common rust area, I'd look at rear quarter panel behind the wheel area and above the bumper . You often see rust here on older cars and it rusts from the inside out. You need to look in the fuse box and radio gear areas and remove the boot vent boxes.
I would agree with top coating the rust converter. I used Corroless chassis paint and then followed that up with Dinitrol 3125 HS. Never tried Lanoguard, if it washes off then the rust protection is living on borrowed time unless you have painted over it first. All these rust prevention treatments need yearly investigation, especially on Defenders.
Great job 👏👍 I feel inspired to do my Range Rover but I’ll have to wait for dryer conditions as don’t have the luxury of a workshop. Thanks for the video. 🙏
Have you thought about the Freelander sill rubber mod to cover the part that the engineers carefully left unprotected so the water can seep into the sill and rust it?
i tried the lanogaurd last year and yesterday i had a look at wheel arches and have to say it was crap and last year i did a good job on doing it, so yesterday sand back rust converter and used 2 pack marine paint and then underseal the hole lot, today right side to to,must say very disappointed lanogarurd, the best stuff i have ever used was rust bullet that works well
Lanoguard sticks amazingly well, much better than wax products. It also doesn't attract dirt and leave you filthy every time you go near the vehicle 😀 The only time I use wax based products now is inside closed sections. The people who make it are also very helpful and supportive.
I was going to do this to my L322 and your video was timely, but unfortunately mine doesn’t have any rust… I mean none at all, all subframes, exhaust, body, sills, rear arches and hatch are like new, just clean shiny paint and fasteners Luckily I don’t live in rust belt, but live in Southern Spain 😇
Sam another great video i use a similar rust neutraliser product ie aquasteel on my 71 Rover P6 3500 and i also used it on my narrowboat hull brilliant stuff i have bought some lanoguard but am yet to apply that keep up the good work its much appreciated. ;-)
Great video. Think I'll look into doing this to mine, it's a similar age to yours. Have you checked yours for water drainage issues? Apparently some channels, especially sunroof drain channels get blocked causing water to accumulate a find it's way to all sorts of places it shouldn't be leading to expensive damage if it finds electrical items. Apparently the drain holes are under car, might be worth checking 🤔
Did you check your brake line running front to rear as we've had plenty rot through near the rear Subframe and need replacing which isn't a nice job to fix insitu!!!
rear jack points are tragic on these ,,, I make a lot of money repairing these , its not a cheap job as its all time , you should do a follow up video and see how it looks one year on. I use acf 50 and give a 3 year warranty on my repairs.
Yes it is a sad fact that they rot so badly. I’m glad you’re helping to save them though! I’m going to have her over the pit next week so will likely do an update then.
@@SamsMotors theres a gap in the plastics at the front of the rear arch and a gap at the rear of the rear jacking points , look in there if its red and rusty dont poke it , spray it with acf50 or what ever your choice is and leave it alone , they are either mint , or rotten in there , never seem to be in the middle , if they are bad they are really bad , our local mot stations have found its a weak spot and poke them , no individual garage mot testing its all done in about 8 big test stations in Northern Ireland , so if one knows they share info and they all know ,,, its a big job to fix , on petrols its tank out and a weeks work , all the repair sections have to be fabricated from scratch too . good luck.
Sam, Have you ever looked into replacing the cameras on this car? I have two with chipped/broken lenses on the front bumpers and I've been looking for ways to replace them more cheaply. Wondering if you've had any luck?
Hey John, It sounds like you have the surround view camera system which is a pretty rare option on the L322. Mine just has the reverse camera which still works great (when the lens is clean). It's not something I've really thought about messing around with to be honest!
@@SamsMotors Yup, the surround cameras - the later cameras are ~60 euros rather than ~300, looks like I'll need to get one and do some experimenting myself then! :)
I'm a little confused Sam. Nothing new there! Isn't the Neutrarust supposed to be a rust convertor AND primer? Just wondering why you didn't paint the metal before applying the Lanoguard. Apologies if you explained why in the video and I missed it. Excellent video as always though. You are getting more professional with each one.
You definitely could do that if you wanted! You'd effectively have triple protection then. Realistically you'd only paint it for cosmetic purposes as the Neutrarust + Lanoguard should protect it more than adequately. I didn't have a spare ~24hrs to wait for the paint to dry so just went with the Lanoguard straight over the top. Cheers!
I removed loose rust but an oxidised surface remained. In places with no corrosion, the converter basically just dries to a hardened acrylic layer that provides another layer of protection.
A 2011 car with rust is appalling why can't jlr get galvanising their vehicles right I've seen cheap Peugeot at 20years old with not a spot of corrosion on it.??? BTW good job years ago cars got ziebarted as a rust treatment in the 70s.
There are a few reasons I can think of but none really excuse it - I agree, it's not very impressive. My car in particular I know had a very hard "first life" with the first owner who essentially used it as a farm hack - so it's unsurprising that there was so much mud up behind the plastics which would have contributed to the surface rust. The steel actually is all galvanised on the RR but that doesn't last forever - and in certain conditions it degrades pretty quickly as could be seen in my wheel arches. It's especially bad when you consider how right they got it with the P38 before it - almost none of those have any serious rot and the oldest are now approaching 30 years old.
Rust converters dont work. Anybody wants any evidence of it...mail me. Ill send pics of my 110 chassis...ruined.. And 84 rangerover...chassis...luckily cos its really rare, i only did back crossmember...ruined.. That stuff keeps chewing away, especially when coated with paint. You end up with crocodile skin bubbles..and under every one of them, a massive hole... Blast it, needle gun it..back to steel, if there is any, ..if there isn't, no point in hiding your head in the sand, using RUST CONVERTER...weld it up...then coat appropriately...
![THIS is why EGR is so bad for your Range Rover. [4.4 TDV8 Belt Squeal, Inlet Cleaning & Service]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-SWu5i4adk/mqdefault.jpg)
This is probably the most important thing you can do for your L322. Check the links in the description to get yourself some Neutrarust and Lanoguard!
Thank you
Sam have removed my rear subframe and completely stripped, removed top and bottom wishbones, removed diff unit and parking brake unit. The subframe looked really bad however the frame was very solid, needle gunned treated with the 661 then coated with zinc primer and 3 coats of 2k black. the wishbones were also solid, power wire brushed, treated with 661 then painted with lidl black spray 3 coats. Rebuild was carried out on a stiffened 18mm ply with 4 heavy duty wheels fitted. Just enough room to slip under the car that was on Jack stands at max. All rubber bushes were renewed (not the 3 diff bushes) the bearings, air bags, parking brake cables, abs cables, brake pad cables, discs, shoes brake pads and all shoe fixings, top wishbone to knuckle bolts changed these had to be cut, the inner bolts for the toe links were also cut so renewed. all flanged zinc coated flanged nuts replaced and copious amounts of aluminium anti seize on all bolts. The inner of the subframe was sprayed with Lanoguard. Tomorrow will treat the chassis as you are doing in this video. By the way the car is a 4.4 tdv8 2011 Autobiography silver. Supreme comfort average 24 mpg on a run 30. Have been on the car doing the subframe etc just under 4 weeks, retired so time is no problem. Have had the car 9 years now. Always enjoy the show sam thanks.
Just a few points, the sills are multi-layered, it's worth taking out some of the plastic bungs and injecting in there. Also there are bungs inside the rear wheel arches that let you inject into the wheel arch edges where they rust out from. You can also inject form inside the boot by removing the side covers. The jacking points are removable and worth a quick spray inside. I haven't tried Lanoguard and used a well known wax product slightly thinned with white spirit.
I discovered Lanoguard last year and what a fantastic product. Sprayed every part of the chassis on my Corvette, I now keep a bottle with my tools and ever time I do some work on any of our cars I give all the metal areas where I have been working a quick spray for added protection.
After the cleaning and rust converter I would use some epoxy primer then something like stonechip / raptor liner then a final coat of a Lanolin or wax product to get in the areas you cannot.
P.S great video, pity more people don’t do this to their car’s regular
Everybody has their favourite ways of treating rust. Personally I like to use a converter gel like Bolt Hamber Deox to get the bulk of rust converted to good metal before one of t the phosphoric acid based treatments (that go black). I don't like painting straight over though so I prefer to sand it back with 800 grit so that it only remains in the pits. I then use an epoxy mastic paint, either sprayed or rolled on, and then top coat with a 1k enamel. This gives a really solid and tough finish, which then gets overheated either with a rubberised 3m spray (not the disgusting tar one) or BH Dynax wax - I've not found the lanogaurd to be as long lasting, despite both using lanolin derivatives. I also don't like the highly regarded BH zinc primer as a base, the epoxy mastic is far, far superior, especially if applied to sandblasted steel. The other thing with this is that I find a scotch wheel on the grinder to be more effective than the wire wheel as the wire polishes the steel and makes anything you put on less likely to stick. Blasting is best, but either a sanding disc or a scotch wheel are a good alternative. Just my 2c from restoring a few cars over the years, the current one being an old Impreza (which means lots of rust!). I also like to get marine grease into all the corners before rebuilding too, it's good stuff.
That's no criticism of what you've done @samsmotors btw, and I appreciate you've replied elsewhere to say this was a more efficient way to do it. Without actually removing components there's a limit to what is a reasonable solution! One decent half way house paint option to add on as an extra layer (I use it on brand new OEM Subaru parts) is Simoniz Tough aerosol paint which is an enamel. It takes a few days to get fully hard but it's a really tough option for chassis parts underneath, especially if you then overcoat with a wax of some description like BH Dynax or Lanoguard.
Good advice, I have a venerable 2002 year L322 (3.0 TD6) which I keep in Latvia, and it had accumulated a fair bit of rust underneath. After a mechanic commented on it, about 5 or 6 years ago I started giving it anti rust treatment each year. Well, not me personally… I took it to my local branch of “KROWN,” a Canadian company which knows about the ravages of harsh weather & salt on roads. The initial treatment was very comprehensive; after removing any loose surface rust they steam cleaned it, and then applied their “T40” compound to every nook and cranny. They even drilled tiny holes in inaccessible cavities including doors, and pumped it in through a tube. They also did the engine bay & spare wheel compartment. T40 is an all in one product that converts existing rust into an inert compound and simultaneously leaves a waxy oil-like layer which sticks to the surface to prevent further rust. The beauty of it is its penetrative qualities, if applied correctly it continues to seep its way into the most inaccessible areas in the following hours & days. Since then, I have it redone every year, alternating between a “refresher” treatment and the full original treatment. I try to do it each Spring because it’s an opportunity for the steam clean to remove any winter salt deposits, although with the treated surfaces they not really going to be able attack the metal. Now I have the satisfaction of a Range Rover that is rust free, more than can be said for most Range Rovers half its age. I still get comments from the mechanic, but now it’s more like “this is the cleanest example I’ve ever seen for its age!”
Love the L322's.
A good tip is to add some Freelander 2 wheel arch rubber trims to the exposed lip following a huge dollop of grease 😊
Thanks for this video Sam, I might ask somebody to do that to my 18 year old L322 mk3 td6 HSE (3.0 litre straight 6 diesel BMW M57 variant); Unfortunately I'm not well enough to do it myself. I've started practically rebuilding it already (I'm lucky enough to have a friend who does all the work on it for me & cheaper than a garage) & only bought it last Good Friday, so may as well cure any rust & stop it getting worse 🤔
What i don't understand is, if a vehicle manufacturer is producing & selling a vehicle in the £70k to £100k price point, when new, why don't they galvenise the ladder chassis & parts that are known to rust, especially as it's a 4x4 (AWD) & on the V5 Log book i believe, & certainly whenever i look it up online for parts, mine is classed as a diesel off road vehicle, so they know it's going to rust & galvanising the chassis & various panels & parts underneath would've been a good thing, surely 🤦♂️🤷♂️
Also, & i know this is unrelated to the topic of this video, but I have an electrical issue, if you have any videos on that, my cigarette lighter 12v sockets measure 12v until I plug anything in, then it drops to around 5v & won't even charge my phone. I suspect it may be a relay in the fuse box, in the driver's side rear wing, but the owners manual just forbids owners to remove them, saying to take it to a dealer. It's driving me insane 🤷♂️ If you have a video on this, can you give me the link so I can sort mine out please? If not, no worries & thanks anyway.
Sounds like it might be shorting out internally when something's plugged in. If you can replace just the socket itself, I reckon it might sort the issue.
Sam one thing I think you have missed is that on the outside of the sill panels there are numerous 20 mm odd plastic bungs you can take out and slather your sheep dip lol inside. I've got the dreaded tin worm in the ends of the sills and all round the wheel arches and along towards the rear of the car just above the plastic bumper on both sides. It pretty horrendous and there was no sign of it when I bought it just 13 months ago. It had been filled and blown over and I missed it. My fault and I'm paying for it now. I paid very good money for it and I know the dealer had got it repaired. Bastard! But caveat emptor and all that lol I paid good money because it is an Overfinch model with a full Burr Walnut interior and Alcantara dash that alone was £1500. I have the original Overfinch bill and on top of the £75 Grand the car was the Overfinch bill was nearly £23 grand! Ouch! It's a 2006 4.2 Supercharged and the engine and box are sweet as a nut and really goes like stink when I want it to. It's also on LPG so I get reasonable economy even if I get slightly heavy right footed lol but with LPG at around 80 pence a litre I can still afford to run it. It's probably cheaper to ride around in the car keeping warm and leaving the heating off indoors! I bought 2 gallons of Waxoyl and after rust conversion everywhere I can get to I will slather it inside and out with gay abandon. No ! Don't go there!
Hello Again. Sam I think you are very lucky, your L322 looks really good and almost rust free. Regards. RichardA.
I was holding my breath when I took that sill cover off, let me tell you!
Wish mine was that good. My 02 Td6 failed its NCT just before Christmas due to excessive corrosion on the rear subframe. It was rotted out on the front most point where it mounts to the body. Subframe swap required. Car is abandoned in the yard while I decide whether to scrap it or have a go at saving it. Motivation is low at the moment.
Thank you, as a discovery 3 owner this is equally helpful.
Another good idea is to get hold of freelander arch protecter and fix to lip on rear wing to join up with the bit Land rover did cover. You have to trim to size but when I did mine I packed the back of the return with some lano grease I bought back from NZ with me 8 years ago . I fixed the trim and packed more lano grease to stop any build up of rust causing mud and road grime. The arch protector stops the stone chips that the unprotected arch is prone to.
Good plan - will get some ordered up.
I always remove the wheels to get better access to the undercarriage. I’ve always used engine oil thinned out a bit seems to work as I’ve never had any rust problems.
Hi Sam, you have solid Range Rover. Even with the mileage. Great buy. I have a td6 l322 for now. I will get another tdv8. I have to weld up the sills. The jacking point has rusted. I will git it re-strengthened for the test. It will be safe to jack up on the back corner when done.
Good job done, don’t suffer quite as bad with corrosion here in France (don’t use salt on roads), but I might check mine out at some point to be sure. 👍
I'd say yours will probably be like new. Here in Ireland stuff seems to literally stay wet for 6 months of the year and never gets a chance to dry out. Any nice farmhouses with outbuildings for sale near you? 😅
@@SamsMotors there’s always stuff for sale over here, and cheap 😀👍
Great job, very thorough. Just finished doing similar to my L319. Really enjoyed the effort to show all stages of what you did.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks Sam. I had this on the to do list for spring so this video will be really helpful. Thank you.
Great job Sam, you should be well set for a while quite a satisfing job. Did mine about 18months ago rear aches out and used Aquasteel seemed to do similar turning rust to black 👍 then Lanoguard over the top, 6months ago I had side sections off and had same amount of dirt fall out! Rust hadn't started to set in so cleaned and Lanoguard. Touched up a few areas with black paint. This summer will go over again with Lanoguard. Painted rear exhaust box too as wasnt looking great. The front section of the rear arch I painted as well and then fitted weather strip to it and bought new strip for the rear section as existing was not in great condition. MOT guy always comments about condition of underside compared with others he sees👍 keep it up. Looking forward to your next one! Cheers
Lanoguard is very good but needs applying in warm temperatures for best effects, hope your garage was heated.
Thanks for doing this, I have to do this project this spring
You did a great job here Sam … I did a quick undercoating myself and painted the air tank but I still have to uncover the door sills and do it there also! Loved the video👍😀
I'd really advise top coating any rust converter with paint, then the rust treatment you applied.
As a Part 2 for rust prevention on an L322 and stopping common rust area, I'd look at rear quarter panel behind the wheel area and above the bumper . You often see rust here on older cars and it rusts from the inside out. You need to look in the fuse box and radio gear areas and remove the boot vent boxes.
I would agree with top coating the rust converter. I used Corroless chassis paint and then followed that up with Dinitrol 3125 HS. Never tried Lanoguard, if it washes off then the rust protection is living on borrowed time unless you have painted over it first. All these rust prevention treatments need yearly investigation, especially on Defenders.
Great job and advice for any car worth preserving in tiptop condition
Definitely going to get some of those products for my Focus and now I know how much I will need cheers Sam 👍🏻🏴
John Rooth or Roothy, the Australian living legend really likes that stuff.
Looks great defo going to get some Lanogaurd for my 2009 Shogun. Great video once again..
Great job 👏👍 I feel inspired to do my Range Rover but I’ll have to wait for dryer conditions as don’t have the luxury of a workshop. Thanks for the video. 🙏
Have you thought about the Freelander sill rubber mod to cover the part that the engineers carefully left unprotected so the water can seep into the sill and rust it?
Awesome video Sam! Looking forward to whatever is next mate, take care, Jim.
thanks Sam, I need to do this on mine!!
That is really helpful. Thanks for spending some of your holiday time on putting that together! Your L322 looks great!
Totally agree, both these product ma are excellent, i use them on all my stuff 👍
thanks, I'm on it!
Best of luck!
Any thoughts on doing an in depth detailing video of the L322 Sam? Would be great to see how it would come up.
Keep your eyes peeled, one coming up very soon :D
i tried the lanogaurd last year and yesterday i had a look at wheel arches and have to say it was crap and last year i did a good job on doing it, so yesterday sand back rust converter and used 2 pack marine paint and then underseal the hole lot, today right side to to,must say very disappointed lanogarurd, the best stuff i have ever used was rust bullet that works well
Nicely done. I find removing wheel arch liners a pain.
There's definitely a knack to it!
Too late for my 2006 l322 TDv8 it needs welding up. I wish I had done this treatment years ago.
Lanoguard sticks amazingly well, much better than wax products. It also doesn't attract dirt and leave you filthy every time you go near the vehicle 😀
The only time I use wax based products now is inside closed sections.
The people who make it are also very helpful and supportive.
I was going to do this to my L322 and your video was timely, but unfortunately mine doesn’t have any rust… I mean none at all, all subframes, exhaust, body, sills, rear arches and hatch are like new, just clean shiny paint and fasteners
Luckily I don’t live in rust belt, but live in Southern Spain 😇
Sam another great video i use a similar rust neutraliser product ie aquasteel on my 71 Rover P6 3500 and i also used it on my narrowboat hull brilliant stuff i have bought some lanoguard but am yet to apply that keep up the good work its much appreciated. ;-)
Must be really satisfying to know that’s done. Great video 👍
Great video. Think I'll look into doing this to mine, it's a similar age to yours. Have you checked yours for water drainage issues? Apparently some channels, especially sunroof drain channels get blocked causing water to accumulate a find it's way to all sorts of places it shouldn't be leading to expensive damage if it finds electrical items. Apparently the drain holes are under car, might be worth checking 🤔
Definitely a good tip - will definitely check the sunroof drains soon.
@@SamsMotors you should feature it in a future video, I've struggled to find a video showing how to check and unblock sunroof drain channels
Could you do a review of the cooper at3s as would like to hear how you get on with them
Did you check your brake line running front to rear as we've had plenty rot through near the rear Subframe and need replacing which isn't a nice job to fix insitu!!!
Nice work, did you do the front arches too?
rear jack points are tragic on these ,,, I make a lot of money repairing these , its not a cheap job as its all time ,
you should do a follow up video and see how it looks one year on.
I use acf 50 and give a 3 year warranty on my repairs.
Yes it is a sad fact that they rot so badly. I’m glad you’re helping to save them though!
I’m going to have her over the pit next week so will likely do an update then.
@@SamsMotors theres a gap in the plastics at the front of the rear arch and a gap at the rear of the rear jacking points , look in there if its red and rusty dont poke it , spray it with acf50 or what ever your choice is and leave it alone , they are either mint , or rotten in there , never seem to be in the middle , if they are bad they are really bad , our local mot stations have found its a weak spot and poke them , no individual garage mot testing its all done in about 8 big test stations in Northern Ireland , so if one knows they share info and they all know ,,, its a big job to fix , on petrols its tank out and a weeks work , all the repair sections have to be fabricated from scratch too . good luck.
How is the lanoguard holding up nearly a year on?
Great work Sam, were the brake discs ok? Just wondering about overspray?
Definitely don't want it on the discs yeah - gotta be a bit careful around those areas!
normally a Range Rover leaks is much that it will protect it that way !
is that rust converter suitable for steel that will be immersed in fresh water, e.g., a dock?
Yes I think it should. You can also overcoat it with pretty much anything else you like 👍
They rust at the tie rod mount at the rear subframe
Super usefull, thank you
Sam, Have you ever looked into replacing the cameras on this car? I have two with chipped/broken lenses on the front bumpers and I've been looking for ways to replace them more cheaply. Wondering if you've had any luck?
Hey John,
It sounds like you have the surround view camera system which is a pretty rare option on the L322. Mine just has the reverse camera which still works great (when the lens is clean). It's not something I've really thought about messing around with to be honest!
@@SamsMotors Yup, the surround cameras - the later cameras are ~60 euros rather than ~300, looks like I'll need to get one and do some experimenting myself then! :)
Hi Sam great video,just wondering which diagnostics tool would you recommend for a 2011 4.4tdv8 as I do all my own maintenance thanks Matt
Sam and a load of us use the GAP IID Bluetooth 😊
nice one
Lovely job 🚘🚙🚗👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Sam do you have a garage in London?
No, it’s in south Kent.
Feel like I would dry ice the all under then seal
I'm a little confused Sam. Nothing new there! Isn't the Neutrarust supposed to be a rust convertor AND primer? Just wondering why you didn't paint the metal before applying the Lanoguard. Apologies if you explained why in the video and I missed it. Excellent video as always though. You are getting more professional with each one.
You definitely could do that if you wanted! You'd effectively have triple protection then. Realistically you'd only paint it for cosmetic purposes as the Neutrarust + Lanoguard should protect it more than adequately. I didn't have a spare ~24hrs to wait for the paint to dry so just went with the Lanoguard straight over the top.
Cheers!
Are you not supposed to leave the rust on for the converter to react to on clean steel surely it’s not doing anything
I removed loose rust but an oxidised surface remained. In places with no corrosion, the converter basically just dries to a hardened acrylic layer that provides another layer of protection.
What tires are they on your vogue
275/55 R20 Cooper Discoverer AT3 Sport 2
@@SamsMotors lovely and chunky good profile do they rub at all. Might put them on my 2012 sport tdv8
Ironically, here in the south USA cars don't rust like this.
that'll last forever now
A 2011 car with rust is appalling why can't jlr get galvanising their vehicles right I've seen cheap Peugeot at 20years old with not a spot of corrosion on it.??? BTW good job years ago cars got ziebarted as a rust treatment in the 70s.
There are a few reasons I can think of but none really excuse it - I agree, it's not very impressive.
My car in particular I know had a very hard "first life" with the first owner who essentially used it as a farm hack - so it's unsurprising that there was so much mud up behind the plastics which would have contributed to the surface rust.
The steel actually is all galvanised on the RR but that doesn't last forever - and in certain conditions it degrades pretty quickly as could be seen in my wheel arches.
It's especially bad when you consider how right they got it with the P38 before it - almost none of those have any serious rot and the oldest are now approaching 30 years old.
L I K E 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍💯💥 💯 💥💯🤩 🤩 🤩🤩
Why are vehicles as new as this rusting? 🤔🤨
Doesn't reflect very well on JLR, does it?!
The P38 before this are amazingly rust free, even the earliest ones which are nearly 30 years old now.
Rust converters dont work.
Anybody wants any evidence of it...mail me.
Ill send pics of my 110 chassis...ruined..
And 84 rangerover...chassis...luckily cos its really rare, i only did back crossmember...ruined..
That stuff keeps chewing away, especially when coated with paint.
You end up with crocodile skin bubbles..and under every one of them, a massive hole...
Blast it, needle gun it..back to steel, if there is any, ..if there isn't, no point in hiding your head in the sand, using RUST CONVERTER...weld it up...then coat appropriately...