hi marty. well I used all hand tools on my bushing and still the tool Bend'ent, it looks like the best way to go. is to build off of Your plans for the Tool .and it looks very strong To Thanks again Marty.peace
Nice, let us know if it worked. Be sure to round the corners of the puller bar so it can get thru the bearing arm. Also, I upgraded the all-thread to the next size up, I think 7/16", for more strength.
You have to be careful not to damage the bushing. Notice that you press against the center hole for the first 4 mm. This puts the rubber under quite a bit of stress (not needed).
Thanks for your comment. I suppose the remedy would be to modify the shape of the puller to allow a recess for the center spacer, only press on the outer metal tube?
@@MartyMitchell92660 I wich i had you tool making ability. I have to spend $ on so much tools that i use once or twice. Btw, maybe you can mention these bushings need preloading. If you do not do this you put huge torsion strain on the rubber once the car is on the ground.
The top of the "U" just has a hole drilled into it. The smaller piece that pulls thru the mount is threaded. I recommend using 7/16" threaded rod for more strength. You could just weld a 7/16" nut to the back side of the smaller piece if you don't want to tap it. Good luck. Let us know if it works.
Marty Mitchell what I don’t understand why does your thing just not spin the puller piece? Shouldn’t you have to hold it for it to actually thread and keep pulled the bushing out like what holds the puller piece from just spinning?
Marty Mitchell just to let you know I swapped out the bushings this past weekend. A total breeze, I did my E46 about 7 years ago and used a ball joint press and that was a nightmare. Using this idea on my E83 it took like 15min to pull and install each bushing the hardest part was getting the trailing arm back up in there. Excellent idea and the tool works as intended!
Hey Sponge. Thanks for the good report. Glad to hear it went well. Making the tool isn't that easy, but at least you get the job done fast and painlessly. I don't remember it being difficult to get the trailing arm back up there, but I may have used a floor jack to help out.
Thanks for posting. Question about the bar stock. Did you drill and tap the smaller piece that presses against the bushing? I wonder if I can just use a nut behind it?
Hi Sean. Yes, I did drill and tap the smaller piece but I'm sure you could just weld a nut onto the back side of it too. Might be good to use a harder than mild steel nut though. Have fun with your project. Don't forget to use 7/16" all thread instead of 3/8" if possible.
It pushes on the metal part of the new bushing so doesn't damage it. I didn't see an issue during my installation. Should be ok. Thanks for your comment and for viewing!
Sorry, i see it now. I just need to replace every (!) bushing there is in rear of the my E36. Because i do rear drum to disc brake conversion. And i just do everything at once. Its not a job i would like to do anytime soon. Car has almost 300k and every bushing is cracked/worn out. But almost no rust on body and the paint (Cosmosschwarz metallic.) shines like new, thats pretty rare here. I dont know what happens if i give it to proffesional guys to polish the whole car. Usually such cars look old and tired, with faded out paint. Got a good one. Thats why i bother. Thank you for the video and the tool plans.
It's good to hear about high-mileage BMW's still looking good and driving well. Once you get all the bushings replaced, it will be a whole new car. Much more fun to drive. Good luck!
Finally bought 1 meter of square steel bar and after a week of vacation i will cut the pieces and weld them together. Thanks for the idea and measurements. BTW. I have idea to use old scissor jack threaded rod and "nut" from it. And weld that nut onto the square steel piece. I will drill the center hole but instead of tapping it, i will weld the "nut" to the square piece. The nut shouldnt not take any valuable space. I think it should work. And to the other end of the rod i just weld some big good nut (17-19mm), it will be like head for the threaded rod. So i can hold it with socket or wrench. The specialized threaded rods are too expensive for such tool but the scissor jacks cost almost nothing. 10 €
Sure, the part number is 33 32 6 770 786 as seen in my video here: th-cam.com/video/QVbmpQjw-2c/w-d-xo.html Not sure if it's the same for a Z3 though. I'd check on that first. Thanks for watching.
Can definitely cause your rear tires to wear out fast. I was going thru tires for sure. Mostly went out of control when I was in a turn and went over a bump. Shifted the rear tires and the car turned abruptly and made it hard to control. Your bald tires are likely slipping on the wet road, so not sure it that's related.
Marty Mitchell thx man turning I'm good. But yes when I hit a bump or when it's wet it slips. I noticed my real control arm is slightly bent will that make a big difference. But i my bushings are completely shot
Unless you are located in Southern California, the shipping back and forth would cost just about as much as buying a new one. www.turnermotorsport.com/p-390709-schwaben-rear-trailing-arm-bushing-tool/
@@eishr3514 I got the metal from Industrial Metal Supply. They have several locations. I believe the metal is 7/8" square bar stock. The exact plans are shown at the end of the video. Use the next larger threaded shaft size for strength. I think 7/16".
Your a legend. I made that tool up off your dimensions and it worked perfect 👍
Excellent! Glad to hear you were able to make one and it worked as published. Did you re-install the OEM bushings or aftermarket?
Great how to, and clever tool. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
hi marty. well I used all hand tools on my bushing and still the tool Bend'ent, it looks like the best way to go. is to build off of Your plans for the Tool .and it looks very strong To Thanks again Marty.peace
Very well communicated video. Straight to the point & insightful. Thank you!!
Thank you. Good luck.
Thanks for posting the dimensions. I'll be getting the welder out when I get home.
Good luck, shouldn't be too tough. I think I upgraded the thread size to 7/16" after damaging the 3/8" ones.
nice tool, i'm going to attempt to make the same!
Nice, let us know if it worked. Be sure to round the corners of the puller bar so it can get thru the bearing arm. Also, I upgraded the all-thread to the next size up, I think 7/16", for more strength.
Thanks for innovative idea.
No worries, hope it helps you out.
great job
Mohammad matroud Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
You have to be careful not to damage the bushing. Notice that you press against the center hole for the first 4 mm. This puts the rubber under quite a bit of stress (not needed).
Thanks for your comment. I suppose the remedy would be to modify the shape of the puller to allow a recess for the center spacer, only press on the outer metal tube?
@@MartyMitchell92660 Yes, that would be enough. Just a cavity of about Ø18mm or something.
@@ApaX1981 Yes, I agree, that would be better, press on the outer ring only.
@@MartyMitchell92660 I wich i had you tool making ability. I have to spend $ on so much tools that i use once or twice.
Btw, maybe you can mention these bushings need preloading. If you do not do this you put huge torsion strain on the rubber once the car is on the ground.
@@ApaX1981 Mentioned noted. Everyone read above comment. Thanks!
Is your horizontal piece also tapped or just a hole through it to fit the 3/8 thread rod?
The top of the "U" just has a hole drilled into it. The smaller piece that pulls thru the mount is threaded. I recommend using 7/16" threaded rod for more strength. You could just weld a 7/16" nut to the back side of the smaller piece if you don't want to tap it. Good luck. Let us know if it works.
Marty Mitchell what I don’t understand why does your thing just not spin the puller piece? Shouldn’t you have to hold it for it to actually thread and keep pulled the bushing out like what holds the puller piece from just spinning?
Yes, you do have to hold it until it contacts the bushing, then it will stay in place and begin pulling.
Marty Mitchell just to let you know I swapped out the bushings this past weekend. A total breeze, I did my E46 about 7 years ago and used a ball joint press and that was a nightmare. Using this idea on my E83 it took like 15min to pull and install each bushing the hardest part was getting the trailing arm back up in there. Excellent idea and the tool works as intended!
Hey Sponge. Thanks for the good report. Glad to hear it went well. Making the tool isn't that easy, but at least you get the job done fast and painlessly. I don't remember it being difficult to get the trailing arm back up there, but I may have used a floor jack to help out.
Thanks for posting. Question about the bar stock. Did you drill and tap the smaller piece that presses against the bushing? I wonder if I can just use a nut behind it?
Hi Sean. Yes, I did drill and tap the smaller piece but I'm sure you could just weld a nut onto the back side of it too. Might be good to use a harder than mild steel nut though. Have fun with your project. Don't forget to use 7/16" all thread instead of 3/8" if possible.
very informative :)
Thank you Thomas. Good luck changing out yours.
I saw your "pusher" piece at the right pressed on the bushing center point.
is it good to push the center part so much? doesnt damage?
It pushes on the metal part of the new bushing so doesn't damage it. I didn't see an issue during my installation. Should be ok. Thanks for your comment and for viewing!
Sorry, i see it now.
I just need to replace every (!) bushing there is in rear of the my E36. Because i do rear drum to disc brake conversion. And i just do everything at once. Its not a job i would like to do anytime soon.
Car has almost 300k and every bushing is cracked/worn out.
But almost no rust on body and the paint (Cosmosschwarz metallic.) shines like new, thats pretty rare here.
I dont know what happens if i give it to proffesional guys to polish the whole car.
Usually such cars look old and tired, with faded out paint.
Got a good one.
Thats why i bother.
Thank you for the video and the tool plans.
It's good to hear about high-mileage BMW's still looking good and driving well. Once you get all the bushings replaced, it will be a whole new car. Much more fun to drive. Good luck!
Finally bought 1 meter of square steel bar and after a week of vacation i will cut the pieces and weld them together. Thanks for the idea and measurements.
BTW. I have idea to use old scissor jack threaded rod and "nut" from it. And weld that nut onto the square steel piece.
I will drill the center hole but instead of tapping it, i will weld the "nut" to the square piece.
The nut shouldnt not take any valuable space. I think it should work.
And to the other end of the rod i just weld some big good nut (17-19mm), it will be like head for the threaded rod. So i can hold it with socket or wrench.
The specialized threaded rods are too expensive for such tool but the scissor jacks cost almost nothing. 10 €
It all sounds like a good plan. Let us know if it worked. Good luck!
Hy boss! Can you put the size of the press in milimeters?
Just divide inches by 25.4, BINGO!
Btw, can you tell what compressor you have exactly?
And how many litres tank.
Sorry JW200, not sure what compressor you are talking about. Fuel tank is 60 liters.
Your garage air compressor.
Which powers your AIR tools
Ah, that makes more sense. It's a Sears Craftsman 1 HP, 220v, 12 gallon tank. It was working pretty hard, not quite keeping up with demand.
Can you give the part # for the rear bushings you used? I have a 98
Z3
Sure, the part number is 33 32 6 770 786 as seen in my video here: th-cam.com/video/QVbmpQjw-2c/w-d-xo.html
Not sure if it's the same for a Z3 though. I'd check on that first. Thanks for watching.
My e36 m3 bushing are shot is that why my tires go bald and when it's wet out I'm all over the road
Can definitely cause your rear tires to wear out fast. I was going thru tires for sure. Mostly went out of control when I was in a turn and went over a bump. Shifted the rear tires and the car turned abruptly and made it hard to control. Your bald tires are likely slipping on the wet road, so not sure it that's related.
Marty Mitchell thx man turning I'm good. But yes when I hit a bump or when it's wet it slips. I noticed my real control arm is slightly bent will that make a big difference. But i my bushings are completely shot
Replace the bushings and bent control arm and you should be good to go!
Marty Mitchell can you send me a link to what I need or what it looks like. If not thanks for the help
Sorry but I'm not the expert on part numbers. I'm sure it will be easy to find if you Google it. Thanks.
Do you still have the tool? I would like to buy/rent it
Unless you are located in Southern California, the shipping back and forth would cost just about as much as buying a new one. www.turnermotorsport.com/p-390709-schwaben-rear-trailing-arm-bushing-tool/
@@MartyMitchell92660 bubble wrap and a $7 usps envelope. where did you get the metal bars and how did you weld it together? what size are the bars?
@@eishr3514 I got the metal from Industrial Metal Supply. They have several locations. I believe the metal is 7/8" square bar stock. The exact plans are shown at the end of the video. Use the next larger threaded shaft size for strength. I think 7/16".
@@eishr3514 How did I weld it? Not sure how to answer that without sounding like a wise guy, so I didn't answer.
@@MartyMitchell92660 😉
Do you have dimensions for the tool you made?
Maybe you didn't watch the whole video? Here are the dimensions th-cam.com/video/QVbmpQjw-2c/w-d-xo.html