I have been using a traditional Saddle stitch for four years now. Video idea: a small video on next level tools. What are some tools that bring your work to the next level? There are a lot of entry-level start up tool guides but not much for somebody ready for the next step. Thank you for all your consistent hard work one these videos.
Corter, A true saddle stich has a half hitch in each hole. What you described is a running stitch. Some believe that what gives the saddle stitch is the angled hole that is made by a iron. This is not so. What gives the saddle stitch its signature look is the half hitch as the passing threads actually tie a half hitch through each hole. When beginning say from left to right, the first needle is passed through the first hole through the piece and matched to the second to find center. The left needle goes through the second hole and the thread is pulled till about a 1-2 inch loop is present. The right needle then goes into the hole from right to left and poke through. At this point the forward thread on the loop is crossed over the needle, then the needle is pulled through. At this point it is rinse and repeat. The half hitch is what gives it its strength. If both thread are cut, the half hitch is what keeps the piece from falling apart. There is a method that also is described in a video whereby left needle is pushed through and the right needle is placed under to form a cross then pulled. At this point the hand is rotated to allow the right needle to be inserted then pulled through. This creates a running stitch not a true saddle stitch. A true saddle stitch and its signature "saw tooth" look can be achieve with awl holes inline. I hope this clarifies the saddle stitch.
I just built my own stitching pony that I can just set on my work desk… I have a complete spine fusion as well as a cranial fusion to my spin so, I cannot bend my neck to look down… the traditional stitching pony’s that you sit on do not work for me… so, I built something small that would sit on my desk that I can move around into different positions… this works for me when I have larger pieces that I can't hold by hand when I’m having issues with my hands… they tend to go numb at weird times without warning… kinda hard to hold onto things when this happens… I like to do most of my stitching by hand though and your videos have been a godsend for me as I have gotten into this craft…
Zippedupkitz - I’m in a similar boat as you. My issues were in the lumbar L1-L5 and my neck. So like you, I have to pay attention to how I do my stitching. It gets really difficult to deal with my right hand numbing to the point that it is difficult to hold a needle. The best of luck in your leather crafting!
Well I started my first leather experience a year ago, with the second stitch you showed us. But I decided to teach myself the saddle stitch which brought in my first impression cleaner results and til today my products didn’t break or get loose at all. I really can recommend for everyone to learn it, because you will see how productive you get.
getting back into leatherwork after - omg! - 25 years. back in the day I used out-and-back simply because I was self-taught and I didn’t know any better. a couple days ago I did a saddle stitch for the first time and I love it. i wondered over the years why I had stopped doing leatherwork because I’ve always loved leather and enjoy the work. now I know why I had stopped: I never liked the uneven look of the out-and-back stitch, especially since my experience was that no matter how careful you were with tension during the making of the thing the tension went wonky as the item aged in use. live and learn I guess. :)
Ive just started making leather stuff in the last few months (many people are getting leather gifts tomorrow!) and i actually thought saddle stitch was basically the standard way everyone did it so its good to know its a good habit!
When I first started I was doing the “French style” saddle stitching you talk about here with a stitching pony,but ever since I saw your tutorial I switched to your method and now it’s my favorite! No more fidgeting with the stitching pony every 2 minutes,no more wonky lines cause the leather is too thin to accommodate the knot…
I am new to leather working and teaching myself by watching TH-cam. So far I have learned to tan my own hides hair on and buck skin. Watching your videos has taught me a lot about stitching. The one thing I don't see you making are things with the hair on (it could be I haven't run across those videos yet). Everything I have made so far is hair on and I use a whip stitch. I' in the prosses of learning to do the saddle stich for a water bottle that I'm going to try and make. I love the content you put out and keep up the good work.
Just want to say that your channel and tutorial ideos are great! My main hobby is woodworking, but i have dabbled (a little) in leather from time to time (and probably done many things incorrectly, not knowing the right way to do things). Your videos have given me the confidence to make something for my Wife for her birthday that i never would have considered before subscribing to your channel. Thanks and cheers from Florida!
Thank You for explaining your skill so well! Everything can be done in two ways. The "however one wants" and "the right way", is an old saying that no one understands, unless they try to make something.
Merry Christmas! I hope that you have a great holiday and great food! Would you consider doing a tutorial on the different stitching irons such as the diamond, the straight and the round hole irons and talk about the major pros and cons associated with them? There are several different sizes (5mm, 6mm, etc) and deciding which to use is not always easy. Like @Jack, I am in my first year of doing leather crafting and all of my immediate family and close friends got gifts made of leather. Last night I stitched up the body of the “Bucket” tote (with the slanted sides) and started looking at fitting the bottom in - I believe it will be a challenge for me to do! I also just finished the Snap Wallet that will eventually be given away for a birthday gift. I appreciate your time and consideration of my suggestion!
I have really gotten into the leather tooling lately and unlike my incredibly talented and artistic sister I tend to just t "Teach myself" (... that's being a little fast a loose with the word "teach" haha) instead of reading any guides or instruction first. I watched this whole video AND even saved 2 notes b/c it was so efficient and helpful! Also, just now understood what was causing a problem with the Stitch I was using thanks to the information so I really appreciate the content and will be subscribing. Awesome thank you again
Excellent advice! I totally agree about the need to learn and practise the saddle stitch from the start. The results are so much neater and the pressure on the thread the same over the whole length and if you cut a groove to sit your stitching in, the thread will be even more protected from abrasion. With some practice, you quickly learn to thread the needle past and not through the thread, which is impossible with the "out and back" technique. For anybody starting leather work, make sure you use round nose needles which slide smoothly through the punched holes. Sharp needles are a pain! And also, make sure the diameter of you needle fits the hole you've punched: if the needle is too thick, you're going to spend an awful long time pulling your needle with pliers in between stitches!
I use a Grey’s Anatomy and two clamps as a stitching pony - I just set it, spine down/pages up, on the table in front of me and it works great; the bottom front clap keeps it from tipping side to side (like it has two little front feet), the second clap I keep closest to me and up near the project so that it does not move around.
Your video on saddle stitching gave me the confidence to make a wallet for myself, I've been carrying it for about a year now and I love it and have started other projects as well
I agree 100% about the saddle stitch. I think you glossed over one of the other main issues with up and back stitching a little though. It takes forever. You’re doubling your work, but it feels like it takes 4x as long to do.
But it lasts forever and if one stitch is ever cut or abraded, the failure pretty much ends there and can be easily repaired and using the same holes. With a machine stitch, it can just start unraveling all the way down the line. I put a bunch of money into an old Singer leather sewing machine and now rarely use it, except for something that may be on the interior of a purse or leather case. I just want my stuff to still be around 50 years or more after I've gone to greener pastures.
@@luke_skywanker7643 I'm new to leatherworking, what kind of stiching are you talking about? Is it like a backstich for leather? I ask because so far i've only seen such a stiching used to start and end saddle stiches.
@@cerocero2817 I was talking about the old tried and true hand-stitching where you have a needle on each end of the thread and pass the needle through each hole in different directions, pull tight and then stitch the next hole. (To finish, I do back stitch about three stitches at each end.) With machine stitching, the way the bobbin "locks" the stitch is by crossing the upper thread and the lower thread somewhere in the middle of the leather being stitched. This always leaves some tension on the stitch itself and can cause that stitch to wear through the crossing point. With a hand stitch, both threads pass each other without being crossed and tensioned. Sorry, it's hard to explain in words. My basic rule is that I hand-stitch everything, except maybe a zipper or a canvas liner in a purse.
@@cerocero2817 Sure. Good luck in your leather work. There's a lot of "needs" out there for real leather goods and a lot of people are tired of plastic. Look for niches and things that can't be made as well overseas and then find a way to reach your market. "Hand Made," and "Hand Sewn," have been good selling points for me -- especially to the kind of people who want one-of-a-kind quality instead of mass-produced plastic and these people usually can afford to pay the difference.
Just came onto your videos and I have only ever used the saddle stitch on leather as a leather awl with a bobbin of thread was just a thing in everyone's saddle trunk and I had sewn fabrics both by hand and by sewing machine before. Currently refinishing a saddle from a wonderful maker and like you said the seams never "pull" apart, but there is a few stitches missing here or there and the saddle was made before I was born (35+ yrs) and looks as good as some of the 5 yr old saddles made today. Real craftsmanship like that nice saddle stitch will hold on multiple horses for many years of hard use!!!!
I really like the way you lay out the pros and cons, it's very accessible. Your examples will, I think, keep a lot folks from getting frustrating results. I was curious as to whether you ever used a lock stitch, similar to French saddle stitch? I believe someone mentioned a sewing awl, which does something similar.
THANK YOU for this video. This helps me so much. I couldn't figure out why my stitching looked so horrible but this helps me realize how to fix it. Thank you again.
This was an awesome Christmas gift! I always use the saddle stitch for everything I make, unless it's a weird shape and then I use something appropriate for strength and longevity, but the saddle style is the best for most work. Merry Christmas @Corter Leather may your days be bright and silent at night... unless you're partying, then make it loud!
I have only sewn leather a few times by hand and it was the saddle stitch after watching TH-cam. They came out very nice and saved me from having to pay a repair shop. I use whatever means makes the most sense...hand saddle stitch, rivets or machine sewing.
There is also a "locked" saddle stitch if you need even more wear resistance where even if a stitch breaks the "locks" (loops really) hold the thread in place its normally done by looping the first thread around the second as you go along its more commonly seen when people use a pony and go single hole by single hole than the method corter uses for saddle stitch which is kinda closer to a running stitch with two threads than what saddle stitch is depicted in places like Al Stohlmans "art of hand sewing leather"
Currently restoring a 35+ yr old saddle requiring new thread work in the original holes. Saddle manufacturer has passed and saddles are highly coveted. Wondering about your stitch idea as I normally have used the saddle stitch for 25ish years, but want to do very right by this saddle. Areas with most thread worn/broken are areas where the human legs with jeans to chaps will have been rubbing on the saddle by the rider around what is called the "shirt" of the saddle. Thoughts?
Love your videos, I have been taking a little money outta each of my paychecks (I have a large family to feed) to purchase leather crafting items (tools - needles, mallet, thread etc), but am afraid to purchase an expensive piece of leather to experiment on and waste the money and ruin the piece of leather if I screw up, soooo I have been watching your videos for quite some time now so as I get more confidence and feel more confident when I attempt to make something . . . . . .....thank you for sharing your very informative videos with us.
I can’t thank you enough for this video and your thorough explanation. I started making leather goods and I was wondering what’s wrong with my stitches although being very good with hand stitching. I was not using the saddle stitch but the double runner stitch. Thank you so much
Just recently decided to get into leather craft. I don’t have any money for tools just yet, but thanks for making these videos to help me get some knowledge :). I hope one day I can get good enough to teach my kids
I have said them in other videos, I am glad I found you and learn how to do saddle stitch without pony, back in the days of just ASMR. Thanks a lot of the tutorial/videos all these times
I use the running stitch at the bottom of the individual pocket sleeves in my wallets … just something to stop the cards from falling all the way down to the bottom…
@@canespugnaces2126 as was I… except I would just use glue for the little pocket inserts… however, I found that sometimes if I didn’t get enough glue, that the cards could push through that little barrier… so, I started just adding a couple of stitches there at the bottom of the pocket sleeves… just a little more added protection and strength there…
I have used a whip stitch and a modified whip stitch before. I used it only for limited items for the reasons You mentioned . I have done a modified whip stitch on thick tubular shaped items ( motorcycle handlebar tool bag ) with flush fit end plugs for a special sort of character . That running stitch is mostly seen in ( buck stitching ) old west items from My observations . Love Your videos , thanks !
So incredibly useful, thank you! I kept wondering why my stitching looked so wonky no matter how lined the holes were or how I was sewing , definitely need to try the saddle stitch !
Thanks for the tutorial Eric, this is certainly great knowledge to add to my DIY knowledge kit. When sewing thick materials like leather shoe repair or sewing canvas, I tend to use sewing awls as I had not heard of pricking irons till now and have been limited to the overlocking stitch (I'm not sure that's the right name but that's how sewing machines do it). I think it looks every bit like a saddle stitch, which I'm also just learning about here but not not as strong or secure because pieces of leather are held together only by thread looping opposing thread and is prone to unrevel when one breaks because there is nothing to hold on to the opposing thread except friction. They are great for repairing shoes though when you have very little space to navigate large needles.
with I had this video 9 years ago. I did the out and back because I just kind of figured it out on my own. When a saddle stitch video finally came out it completely changed my projects.
Hey man, I wanted to add on to others' comments and express that your videos are so helpful for people like me, who aren't at a crafting level of professional perfection yet. I think your leatherwork itself looks spectacular (OF COURSE), but to me your communication and demonstration of methods encourages imperfection as a good thing to keep moving forward. Your videos are not perfect, but they get the job done (and I'd say they've got a lot of charm :) ). Reminds me of Casey Neistat, of whom I know you are a fan also. Putting it out there, GOOD ENOUGH, not agonizing over polish. Thank you!!!
Great technique on the saddle stitch! I just wanted to briefly comment that there is a very subtle action this fine gentleman is conducting that allows the stitch on the front side to have that quasi "zig-zag" effect in the shape down the stitch that gives it a clean and organized look. Notice that when the needle is pulled through the front to the back (around 2:20), that portion of thread is pulled slightly down and back to allow the needle pulled through the back to the front to be positioned in the same place within the hole each time. In other words, the front/back stitch is "low" in the hole and the back/front stitch is "high" in the hole. It also helps avoid the annoying "needle through the thread" mistake that can cause some problems. Consistency is definitely key for a clean professional look...
Definitely saddle stitch for me. I tried doing it without a stitching pony like you do but didn't have any luck. I always use a pony now. Great video as always.
Thank you for a very informative and informative video, I have beeb stitching leather as hobby, for years using what I know is a running stitch, thank you for that, I have also learnt from your video what was causing the up and down effect in my work.. tension🤗👍, I am going to try your version of the saddle stitch, the last few days I have been learning the French saddle stitch using a pony and todays little knife slip came out pretty good. Thank you again, I will put your video of how to saddle stitch and have a go tomorrow. Thanks again Take care Sam
I always do saddle stitch. I want everything to last. But after watching your video on how to do the saddle stitch I have taken to using your method for my stitching style. Thank you for such great content!
Saddle stitch here! When I first starting playing with leather work a couple years ago I googled "best way to hand sew leather" and found a bunch of youtube videos showing saddle stitching and I haven't looked back. I mostly just hold the workpiece like you do when sewing as well but I'd like to build a stitching pony for those occasions where I really need a third hand :) Speaking of hand stitching... I'd love a future video on workholding while punching out stich lines. I just finished one of your bucket totes for a Christmas present (VERY happy recipient!) and getting the bottom seam punched out was a challenge - bag kept walking across the bench and I whacked my knuckles a couple times.
Ever since I saw you do the leap frog stitch, my pony has been left to collect dust. I enjoy stitching without it. Very relaxing. I am not sure I remember how to saddle stitch in a pony.
Thank you for this video very educational for a first time leather worker. Was curious as to how you start your saddle stitch and also how do you tie off or finish up your stitch? Thank you and looking forward to a few projects I have in mind
I'm in leatherworking for 4 years and i use saddle stitch from my first day. First thing i personally think it looks better and it is very strong but it's always a challenge to make a 20+ cm stitch, it takes some time.
Yeah I made me a belt with two hand stitches running all the way down it and it look me like 2 days. God that string was so long that I had to pull out to run a full stitch all the way down. Lol. Probably will never do a belt by hand again lol
I know that feel. I make small goods for friends and family and I'm feeling very uneasy saying how long it took (for them to estimate how much they want to pay me). 50% of the time or more is stitching. I thought about getting myself one of those sewing machines cobblers and saddlemakers use, but the prices are astronomical for a mere hobbyist. And machine stitches are never as strong as hand stitches. So I am in a bit of a dilemma.
@@kantamana1 I have a clamp here, thank Odin. Otherwise it would be very uncomfortable. It is most likely the routine. I've seen professionals stitch (not with prepunched holes, but with an sword-awl) and they are fast.^^
I started off stitching the way you guys do. However there are times I cannot get the lines as consistent as I'd like on the backside. Ive started doing the french style with a saddle to get the angle on both sides. It's not as enjoyable as just handstitching so I don't do it for everything. Both are great for my style :)
Same! I can never get the back side of the stitches to angle correctly using the leapfrog method. French style with a stitching pony produces my most consistent results
I also hand stitch all my projects. I think the stitching is one of the most important parts of the look of the item. It took me a while but I'm finally happy with the look of my stitching. I use quality stitching irons, an awl and the right thread . All of which affect the look. I always stitch towards myself right hand first and cast the thread in a certain way. This is what works for me after countless trial and error and produces a nice looking tight diagonal laying stitch both front and back. Now I don't even bother considering another way of doing it. It's true what everyone says about finding the method that works for them. I tried several methods that worked for that person and for whatever reason didn't work for me.
Another problem with the out and back stitch is, like I found for me, I did not have dull tipped needles. My needles had sharp tips. When I went back a second time to get the look of a saddle stitch, my needles were tearing the first stitches threads. This also weakens the stitch. Sure, I have not had any of my stitches give out yet, but I have only been using them for six or seven years. A good leather piece should last longer than me. Okay, unless you are going into combat with them. I enjoyed the video! Dave T
I like the saddle stitch but like you I for years used to do the in and out or up and back method until I started repairing saddles and seen how the saddle stitch was done
Oh boy, I'm trying not to watch these but I can't help it!! I love to MAKE!! Loving this stitch, try kicking it up a notch and throw some embroidery in. If done properly I think they would look amazing together!! Just an idea, you asked for comments, but will you attempt it? We'll see.. lol
I built a stitching horse, work one way. Helps keep tension even on both theeads, and keeps the work neater, more professional. I've evwn had clients swear my saddle stitch was machine sewn...your method takes me twice as lobg, and I'm slow enough as is! 😁
I worked as a Sailmaker for a while and am used to handling long threads, but I quickly found that out and back for leatherwork gave twice the length of thread to deal with and sewing shoes it wound up hooking up on everything. So saddle stitch every time.
I’ve done Saddle stitch for years, and leather craft also, I don’t like making walets I love making coasters with custom patterns even did the ZZ Top car once, I’ve only done plane belts I want a sewing machine 😅for making thick belts my fingers get sore, but the thread the sewing machines use don’t look as good to me I want a nice machine if I get one.
appreciate the video. a french saddle seem is just what i needed for the out soles of my shoes since it's very high wear and if any of the thread breaks the shoes won't fall apart (couldn't glue them).
Great advice about not learning bad habits that you have to unlearn! Trying to unlearn muscle memory is sooooo difficult… I would never use that out and back because I could never get it straight and it would drive me crazy… I'm new to this craft… been doing it for a couple of months now and your videos, along with the ones from weaver have been my go to for learning new techniques… the other day I wanted to join two pieces together because I didn’t have a long enough piece to do what I wanted to do… so I figured I would just sew them together… I basically did a French seem without knowing that is what it was called… the. I saw your video on the French seem and I was just smacking my head on the wall wish I had seen that video first! I'm making a quiver for my daughter and now that I know who to do it properly, guess what is getting redone? THANK GOD I did not use any glue so, I can just undo the stitching, trim the ends, skive the ends properly and put them back together… so quiver will have a stitch line in the middle of the quiver all the way around it… it will just look like it was done purposefully for decorative purposes :) …. Thank you for your videos. They are wonderful!
I use the saddle stitch method with knot for majority of work. It looks cleaner to include benefits described in video. I do not add knots when doing final two back stitch which gives cleaner look. The only time I use a pony now is when doing long stitch lines, I.e., belt. Otherwise, I do not use it., I.e., sheaths, wallets, purse or holster. I would pay attention to size of pricking iron/chisel holes, string size and needle size which can make it much easier when adding knot and last few back stitches. As usual, I enjoy these videos. Merry CHRISTmas!!!!!!!
I've heard that to reduce wear on stiches, cut or press a slight groove into the edge of the leather, then punch your holes in the groove. The thread will then sit below the surface in the groove.
I created a very small holster for 1 or 2 keys as they damage my pockets all the time if my 2 keys are in there loose and all. Made from some leftovers that were pretty smooth and shiny, so had a bad grip for such a small piece. So I used the outside stitch for that "key case"/"key holster" as it provides my fingers better grip when I take it out and also stays in my pockets. I just restitch it every year or so, use some simpler cheaper thread and am good to go.
Love your videos and your work. Have you ever thought about tackling a pair of cowboy boots? I am still an amatuer but began looking out of curiosity only to find out there is little information out there when it comes to boot making!
I sometimes use a double whip stitch for bracelets sewing the glued on suede on the inside to the tooled or sometimes just alligator skin. I literally do each stitch like a saddle stitch using two needles so I can arrange where the X goes. I obviously don't want it on the bottom, but on the top so the bracelet looks like it is surrounded with little X's. Works well with thin lace too. Be sure and do a test piece to see how much thread you use per inch as a Whip Stitch uses a lot of thread and a double Whip uses 5 to 6 inches per inch. It is why I only use it on something small like a bracelet and it is hard to hide a splice if you run short.
I have been tying that knot with my saddle stitch for decades. I just thought it made for a tighter stitch. I never knew it had a name! Then again, there were no computers or You Tube when I started leather work. Very cool.
I recently did a red white and blue dog collar. The leather was blue but I did separate running stitches of red and white. I was wondering if you have any thoughts on doing the stitching as a saddle stitch. I did 2 running stitches not the technique I am outlining. Basically a double stitch at the first stitch for the red and white threads to anchor them. Then using the saddle stitch technique for the stitch line. The effect was nice with alternating red and white stitches but was a bit wavy with 2 separate running stitches.
Thank you for the great content. I largely only use saddle stitching due to it's durable nature, HOWEVER...for me, the secret to a good-looking stitch is to use stitching punches, or make sure to can't the awl at the proper angle. When I individually punch round holes, just doesn't look as good.
Depends on the length of the stitch line I'm doing. If it's for a small wallet I will do a saddle stitch without using a stitching pony. If it's a longer stitch line I will use a saddle pony because it helps hold everything together as I stitch. When using lace I will do a double round loop.
Thank you so much for this tutorial on the stitches. May I ask you please if you have any tips for me? I have a medical condition that makes my legs swell to unbelievable size. It’s very painful, but as this happens daily, I am extremely limited in the shoes I can wear. I have purchased a pair of second hand shoes and the strap that goes around the ankle is too small. I knew this when purchasing them, but I have purchased vinyl to lengthen the straps. I dare not try this in an expensive pair of leather shoes as yet until I am sure it will work, so that is why I thought it best to cut my teeth on vinyl first. I have cut a length of vinyl in the same shape as the original strap and glued it to the old strap, it is much longer. I am now going to sew it together using your saddle stitch that you showed in this video. I did wonder first though, have you any suggestions for thread? Also have you any advice at all on glues to use. I used a flexible gel superglue and it comes in tiny bottles, so it will work out expensive in the long run. Would I be able to use any glue you suggest on vinyl and on leathers please? One last thing, is there anything that I should be putting between the two pieces of vinyl to help them with being more sturdy? I am about to go and see the pieces of vinyl to the original strap now that I have checked if they will fit, so fingers crossed. However for future reference, I really would appreciate any advice you could give me on this. Being able to wear shoes again will be life changing for me in many instances, I am worried though, that due to inexperience with these types of materials, I will go out and they break on me adding to my embarrassment of my very swollen legs. Thank you so much for any help or advice. 😊
First Merry Christmas to you and your family's. You taught me how to stich. Before the pandemic stared I wanted to do leather craft as something to do when I retired from working in the railroad. What are your thoughts on the cross stitch. I've seen times I thought the X was better on the outside rather then to back and forth. I've used this on the hats I've made.
I generally glue my peices together then I cut. A grove and use a running stitch. But I am also making holsters so the stitching is more of a one part of a 2 part bonding process.
When doing a saddle stitch, do you thread in the same direction with the second thread? Or go the opposite direction? Or does it not matter either way?
I am a starter in leathercraft and some of my questions might sound silly or naive... but as I said as a former flight instructor, there's no stupid question as long as it makes you learn something and keep out of trouble. So here's the question: since the main problem with the running stitch is how the stitching is going to wear out, is it imaginable, before even punching the holes, to create a groove in the leather inside which the thread would kind of insert? This way the thread would actually stick out less and maybe even not at all... I understand it could also look kind of packed inside the groove, thus screwing the esthetics a bit, but maybe a slightly wider groove would make it work? Just an idea... what do you think?
@Hugo Millère - a "U" or "V" Grove can certainly be used for this purpose and in some cases actually helps with the asthetics of the work - BUT - in the case of the up and back stitch it still doesn't help with the tension problem. So then you pretty much have put a bandaid on a bullet wound so to speak. Good thinking though, I do use a "U" groove often when I am lining a piece with a thinner leather like a suede and it's for exactly the reason you came up with. Think a belt or shoulder strap with an inner lining that will potentially have a bunch of friction, but instead of grooving the suede liner which is likely too thin to groove, you put the groove on the heavy leather of the inside of the belt on your stitch line so it pulls the liner into the groove when you stitch and if you have your depth right everything is pretty uniform.
You can cut a groove and stitch inside it. This used to be popular on horse tack to protect the stitching from thorns and twigs. It's ok on thick leather, but it does weaken it. The top surface is the most compressed, epidermis, so it's the strongest part. If you cut into it, you have a line of thinner, weaker leather for your stitches. It's also more prone to water soaking in, so you would need to wax it and keep it oiled which in turn will rot natural threads like linen. Better to have a few stitches cut and be able to repair them when you get home, than to have a seam rip out on you and have to replace a whole panel.
I use a similar stitching to the last one for my folding knifes cases, instead of going all around, I go in between the 2 pieces of leather, it gives a very nice finish, and it’s very strong and adapt perfectly to different shapes that you put inside. It’s quite complicated to explain what it looks like though 😅 I use one of those everyday, and so far, it didn’t disappoint me !
As was mentioned in another comment, if the leather is thick enough, use a groover to make a groove to match the thread size so the top of the thread is just below the surface of the leather. That way, the amount wear on the thread is practically zero. If not grooved, you can also use a hammer on the stich line to press the stitches into the leather. But it won't be as good as a groove.
I have been using a traditional Saddle stitch for four years now. Video idea: a small video on next level tools. What are some tools that bring your work to the next level? There are a lot of entry-level start up tool guides but not much for somebody ready for the next step. Thank you for all your consistent hard work one these videos.
Corter, A true saddle stich has a half hitch in each hole. What you described is a running stitch. Some believe that what gives the saddle stitch is the angled hole that is made by a iron. This is not so. What gives the saddle stitch its signature look is the half hitch as the passing threads actually tie a half hitch through each hole. When beginning say from left to right, the first needle is passed through the first hole through the piece and matched to the second to find center. The left needle goes through the second hole and the thread is pulled till about a 1-2 inch loop is present. The right needle then goes into the hole from right to left and poke through. At this point the forward thread on the loop is crossed over the needle, then the needle is pulled through. At this point it is rinse and repeat.
The half hitch is what gives it its strength. If both thread are cut, the half hitch is what keeps the piece from falling apart. There is a method that also is described in a video whereby left needle is pushed through and the right needle is placed under to form a cross then pulled. At this point the hand is rotated to allow the right needle to be inserted then pulled through. This creates a running stitch not a true saddle stitch.
A true saddle stitch and its signature "saw tooth" look can be achieve with awl holes inline. I hope this clarifies the saddle stitch.
I just built my own stitching pony that I can just set on my work desk… I have a complete spine fusion as well as a cranial fusion to my spin so, I cannot bend my neck to look down… the traditional stitching pony’s that you sit on do not work for me… so, I built something small that would sit on my desk that I can move around into different positions… this works for me when I have larger pieces that I can't hold by hand when I’m having issues with my hands… they tend to go numb at weird times without warning… kinda hard to hold onto things when this happens… I like to do most of my stitching by hand though and your videos have been a godsend for me as I have gotten into this craft…
Zippedupkitz - I’m in a similar boat as you. My issues were in the lumbar L1-L5 and my neck. So like you, I have to pay attention to how I do my stitching. It gets really difficult to deal with my right hand numbing to the point that it is difficult to hold a needle. The best of luck in your leather crafting!
I'm similar too, I have a rectal cranial inversion
@@manbearpig2164 ROFLMAO… head up your butt, eh?
Well I started my first leather experience a year ago, with the second stitch you showed us. But I decided to teach myself the saddle stitch which brought in my first impression cleaner results and til today my products didn’t break or get loose at all. I really can recommend for everyone to learn it, because you will see how productive you get.
getting back into leatherwork after - omg! - 25 years. back in the day I used out-and-back simply because I was self-taught and I didn’t know any better. a couple days ago I did a saddle stitch for the first time and I love it. i wondered over the years why I had stopped doing leatherwork because I’ve always loved leather and enjoy the work. now I know why I had stopped: I never liked the uneven look of the out-and-back stitch, especially since my experience was that no matter how careful you were with tension during the making of the thing the tension went wonky as the item aged in use. live and learn I guess. :)
Ive just started making leather stuff in the last few months (many people are getting leather gifts tomorrow!) and i actually thought saddle stitch was basically the standard way everyone did it so its good to know its a good habit!
Great man, keep going :)
When ever possible, I glue the seam, then saddle stitch. Never had seem come apart.
what is the best glue to use?
@@mikehutchison9589
When I first started I was doing the “French style” saddle stitching you talk about here with a stitching pony,but ever since I saw your tutorial I switched to your method and now it’s my favorite! No more fidgeting with the stitching pony every 2 minutes,no more wonky lines cause the leather is too thin to accommodate the knot…
I am new to leather working and teaching myself by watching TH-cam. So far I have learned to tan my own hides hair on and buck skin. Watching your videos has taught me a lot about stitching. The one thing I don't see you making are things with the hair on (it could be I haven't run across those videos yet). Everything I have made so far is hair on and I use a whip stitch. I' in the prosses of learning to do the saddle stich for a water bottle that I'm going to try and make. I love the content you put out and keep up the good work.
Just want to say that your channel and tutorial ideos are great! My main hobby is woodworking, but i have dabbled (a little) in leather from time to time (and probably done many things incorrectly, not knowing the right way to do things). Your videos have given me the confidence to make something for my Wife for her birthday that i never would have considered before subscribing to your channel. Thanks and cheers from Florida!
Thank You for explaining your skill so well!
Everything can be done in two ways. The "however one wants" and "the right way", is an old saying that no one understands, unless they try to make something.
Merry Christmas! I hope that you have a great holiday and great food! Would you consider doing a tutorial on the different stitching irons such as the diamond, the straight and the round hole irons and talk about the major pros and cons associated with them? There are several different sizes (5mm, 6mm, etc) and deciding which to use is not always easy. Like @Jack, I am in my first year of doing leather crafting and all of my immediate family and close friends got gifts made of leather. Last night I stitched up the body of the “Bucket” tote (with the slanted sides) and started looking at fitting the bottom in - I believe it will be a challenge for me to do! I also just finished the Snap Wallet that will eventually be given away for a birthday gift. I appreciate your time and consideration of my suggestion!
I have really gotten into the leather tooling lately and unlike my incredibly talented and artistic sister I tend to just t
"Teach myself" (... that's being a little fast a loose with the word "teach" haha) instead of reading any guides or instruction first.
I watched this whole video AND even saved 2 notes b/c it was so efficient and helpful! Also, just now understood what was causing a problem with the Stitch I was using thanks to the information so I really appreciate the content and will be subscribing. Awesome thank you again
9:10 wow that’s actually mind blowing, in the sense that there’s still hope for us learning how to perfect those stitches
Excellent advice! I totally agree about the need to learn and practise the saddle stitch from the start. The results are so much neater and the pressure on the thread the same over the whole length and if you cut a groove to sit your stitching in, the thread will be even more protected from abrasion. With some practice, you quickly learn to thread the needle past and not through the thread, which is impossible with the "out and back" technique. For anybody starting leather work, make sure you use round nose needles which slide smoothly through the punched holes. Sharp needles are a pain! And also, make sure the diameter of you needle fits the hole you've punched: if the needle is too thick, you're going to spend an awful long time pulling your needle with pliers in between stitches!
All good advice! Been saddle stitching for over 40 years. Been mistaken for machine stitch.
I use a Grey’s Anatomy and two clamps as a stitching pony - I just set it, spine down/pages up, on the table in front of me and it works great; the bottom front clap keeps it from tipping side to side (like it has two little front feet), the second clap I keep closest to me and up near the project so that it does not move around.
Brilliant. Just be careful. If an errant stitch goes through the liver, it will never stop bleeding.
Bueno no es que no deje de sangrar para eso están las plaquetas y el tiempo de protombina.
Your video on saddle stitching gave me the confidence to make a wallet for myself, I've been carrying it for about a year now and I love it and have started other projects as well
Out-and-back vs saddle: such a crisp explanation, thank you, I'm learning a lot here.
I agree 100% about the saddle stitch. I think you glossed over one of the other main issues with up and back stitching a little though. It takes forever. You’re doubling your work, but it feels like it takes 4x as long to do.
But it lasts forever and if one stitch is ever cut or abraded, the failure pretty much ends there and can be easily repaired and using the same holes. With a machine stitch, it can just start unraveling all the way down the line. I put a bunch of money into an old Singer leather sewing machine and now rarely use it, except for something that may be on the interior of a purse or leather case. I just want my stuff to still be around 50 years or more after I've gone to greener pastures.
@@luke_skywanker7643 I'm new to leatherworking, what kind of stiching are you talking about? Is it like a backstich for leather? I ask because so far i've only seen such a stiching used to start and end saddle stiches.
@@cerocero2817 I was talking about the old tried and true hand-stitching where you have a needle on each end of the thread and pass the needle through each hole in different directions, pull tight and then stitch the next hole. (To finish, I do back stitch about three stitches at each end.) With machine stitching, the way the bobbin "locks" the stitch is by crossing the upper thread and the lower thread somewhere in the middle of the leather being stitched. This always leaves some tension on the stitch itself and can cause that stitch to wear through the crossing point. With a hand stitch, both threads pass each other without being crossed and tensioned. Sorry, it's hard to explain in words. My basic rule is that I hand-stitch everything, except maybe a zipper or a canvas liner in a purse.
@@luke_skywanker7643 thanks for explaining.
@@cerocero2817 Sure. Good luck in your leather work. There's a lot of "needs" out there for real leather goods and a lot of people are tired of plastic. Look for niches and things that can't be made as well overseas and then find a way to reach your market. "Hand Made," and "Hand Sewn," have been good selling points for me -- especially to the kind of people who want one-of-a-kind quality instead of mass-produced plastic and these people usually can afford to pay the difference.
Just came onto your videos and I have only ever used the saddle stitch on leather as a leather awl with a bobbin of thread was just a thing in everyone's saddle trunk and I had sewn fabrics both by hand and by sewing machine before. Currently refinishing a saddle from a wonderful maker and like you said the seams never "pull" apart, but there is a few stitches missing here or there and the saddle was made before I was born (35+ yrs) and looks as good as some of the 5 yr old saddles made today.
Real craftsmanship like that nice saddle stitch will hold on multiple horses for many years of hard use!!!!
These videos are so helpful. Thank you for sharing the knowledge. I look forward to making my first project in the future.
I really like the way you lay out the pros and cons, it's very accessible. Your examples will, I think, keep a lot folks from getting frustrating results.
I was curious as to whether you ever used a lock stitch, similar to French saddle stitch? I believe someone mentioned a sewing awl, which does something similar.
Okay, I missed that you've already provided an answer to this. On your website, under process. Makes more sense now.
Hello, novice here! This was extremely helpful and will definitely influence my crafting going forward.
THANK YOU for this video. This helps me so much. I couldn't figure out why my stitching looked so horrible but this helps me realize how to fix it. Thank you again.
This was an awesome Christmas gift! I always use the saddle stitch for everything I make, unless it's a weird shape and then I use something appropriate for strength and longevity, but the saddle style is the best for most work. Merry Christmas @Corter Leather may your days be bright and silent at night... unless you're partying, then make it loud!
I have only sewn leather a few times by hand and it was the saddle stitch after watching TH-cam. They came out very nice and saved me from having to pay a repair shop. I use whatever means makes the most sense...hand saddle stitch, rivets or machine sewing.
There is also a "locked" saddle stitch if you need even more wear resistance where even if a stitch breaks the "locks" (loops really) hold the thread in place its normally done by looping the first thread around the second as you go along its more commonly seen when people use a pony and go single hole by single hole than the method corter uses for saddle stitch which is kinda closer to a running stitch with two threads than what saddle stitch is depicted in places like Al Stohlmans "art of hand sewing leather"
Currently restoring a 35+ yr old saddle requiring new thread work in the original holes. Saddle manufacturer has passed and saddles are highly coveted. Wondering about your stitch idea as I normally have used the saddle stitch for 25ish years, but want to do very right by this saddle. Areas with most thread worn/broken are areas where the human legs with jeans to chaps will have been rubbing on the saddle by the rider around what is called the "shirt" of the saddle. Thoughts?
I've been using saddlestiching for quite a while. Enjoyed you're video and descriptive explainations.
Love your videos, I have been taking a little money outta each of my paychecks (I have a large family to feed) to purchase leather crafting items (tools - needles, mallet, thread etc), but am afraid to purchase an expensive piece of leather to experiment on and waste the money and ruin the piece of leather if I screw up, soooo I have been watching your videos for quite some time now so as I get more confidence and feel more confident when I attempt to make something . . . . . .....thank you for sharing your very informative videos with us.
I can’t thank you enough for this video and your thorough explanation. I started making leather goods and I was wondering what’s wrong with my stitches although being very good with hand stitching. I was not using the saddle stitch but the double runner stitch.
Thank you so much
I started doing a decorative stitch. I use a different color thinner thread and saddle stitch the stitches. Looks sooooo cool
Just recently decided to get into leather craft. I don’t have any money for tools just yet, but thanks for making these videos to help me get some knowledge :). I hope one day I can get good enough to teach my kids
I'm really glad that I found your channel! Lots of useful information. Thank you very much for making this kind of videos!
Since I started this journey into the craft, I have always used saddle stitch. You were the first one I followed for inspiration and learning.
I have said them in other videos, I am glad I found you and learn how to do saddle stitch without pony, back in the days of just ASMR. Thanks a lot of the tutorial/videos all these times
I use the running stitch at the bottom of the individual pocket sleeves in my wallets … just something to stop the cards from falling all the way down to the bottom…
perfect use for it!
I'm going to start that. I've been using the saddle stitch exclusively on everything.
@@canespugnaces2126 as was I… except I would just use glue for the little pocket inserts… however, I found that sometimes if I didn’t get enough glue, that the cards could push through that little barrier… so, I started just adding a couple of stitches there at the bottom of the pocket sleeves… just a little more added protection and strength there…
I have used a whip stitch and a modified whip stitch before. I used it only for limited items for the reasons You mentioned . I have done a modified whip stitch on thick tubular shaped items ( motorcycle handlebar tool bag ) with flush fit end plugs for a special sort of character . That running stitch is mostly seen in ( buck stitching ) old west items from My observations . Love Your videos , thanks !
So incredibly useful, thank you! I kept wondering why my stitching looked so wonky no matter how lined the holes were or how I was sewing , definitely need to try the saddle stitch !
Thanks for the tutorial Eric, this is certainly great knowledge to add to my DIY knowledge kit. When sewing thick materials like leather shoe repair or sewing canvas, I tend to use sewing awls as I had not heard of pricking irons till now and have been limited to the overlocking stitch (I'm not sure that's the right name but that's how sewing machines do it). I think it looks every bit like a saddle stitch, which I'm also just learning about here but not not as strong or secure because pieces of leather are held together only by thread looping opposing thread and is prone to unrevel when one breaks because there is nothing to hold on to the opposing thread except friction. They are great for repairing shoes though when you have very little space to navigate large needles.
with I had this video 9 years ago. I did the out and back because I just kind of figured it out on my own. When a saddle stitch video finally came out it completely changed my projects.
Hey man, I wanted to add on to others' comments and express that your videos are so helpful for people like me, who aren't at a crafting level of professional perfection yet. I think your leatherwork itself looks spectacular (OF COURSE), but to me your communication and demonstration of methods encourages imperfection as a good thing to keep moving forward. Your videos are not perfect, but they get the job done (and I'd say they've got a lot of charm :) ). Reminds me of Casey Neistat, of whom I know you are a fan also. Putting it out there, GOOD ENOUGH, not agonizing over polish. Thank you!!!
Great technique on the saddle stitch! I just wanted to briefly comment that there is a very subtle action this fine gentleman is conducting that allows the stitch on the front side to have that quasi "zig-zag" effect in the shape down the stitch that gives it a clean and organized look. Notice that when the needle is pulled through the front to the back (around 2:20), that portion of thread is pulled slightly down and back to allow the needle pulled through the back to the front to be positioned in the same place within the hole each time. In other words, the front/back stitch is "low" in the hole and the back/front stitch is "high" in the hole. It also helps avoid the annoying "needle through the thread" mistake that can cause some problems. Consistency is definitely key for a clean professional look...
Thanks for the video. I've used many stitches in hand sewing clothing. I had never seen the saddle stitch,
Definitely saddle stitch for me. I tried doing it without a stitching pony like you do but didn't have any luck. I always use a pony now. Great video as always.
Thank you for a very informative and informative video, I have beeb stitching leather as hobby, for years using what I know is a running stitch, thank you for that, I have also learnt from your video what was causing the up and down effect in my work.. tension🤗👍, I am going to try your version of the saddle stitch, the last few days I have been learning the French saddle stitch using a pony and todays little knife slip came out pretty good.
Thank you again, I will put your video of how to saddle stitch and have a go tomorrow.
Thanks again
Take care
Sam
I always do saddle stitch. I want everything to last. But after watching your video on how to do the saddle stitch I have taken to using your method for my stitching style. Thank you for such great content!
The saddle stitch looks to best to me, thanks for explaining why it is also the best.
best advice to beginners, I've learnt alot from your videos. thank you and keep it up!
Saddle stitch here! When I first starting playing with leather work a couple years ago I googled "best way to hand sew leather" and found a bunch of youtube videos showing saddle stitching and I haven't looked back. I mostly just hold the workpiece like you do when sewing as well but I'd like to build a stitching pony for those occasions where I really need a third hand :)
Speaking of hand stitching... I'd love a future video on workholding while punching out stich lines. I just finished one of your bucket totes for a Christmas present (VERY happy recipient!) and getting the bottom seam punched out was a challenge - bag kept walking across the bench and I whacked my knuckles a couple times.
Wow! What great, specifically explained and shown tutorial. So well made. Thank you.
About to make my first sheath and this is just what I needed thanks so much for sharing
Ever since I saw you do the leap frog stitch, my pony has been left to collect dust. I enjoy stitching without it. Very relaxing. I am not sure I remember how to saddle stitch in a pony.
Thank you for this video very educational for a first time leather worker. Was curious as to how you start your saddle stitch and also how do you tie off or finish up your stitch? Thank you and looking forward to a few projects I have in mind
I'm in leatherworking for 4 years and i use saddle stitch from my first day. First thing i personally think it looks better and it is very strong but it's always a challenge to make a 20+ cm stitch, it takes some time.
Yeah I made me a belt with two hand stitches running all the way down it and it look me like 2 days. God that string was so long that I had to pull out to run a full stitch all the way down. Lol. Probably will never do a belt by hand again lol
I know that feel. I make small goods for friends and family and I'm feeling very uneasy saying how long it took (for them to estimate how much they want to pay me). 50% of the time or more is stitching. I thought about getting myself one of those sewing machines cobblers and saddlemakers use, but the prices are astronomical for a mere hobbyist. And machine stitches are never as strong as hand stitches. So I am in a bit of a dilemma.
you need a clamp and routine to grab two needles in one hand perpendicular to each others to go fast using the saddle stich.
@@kantamana1 I have a clamp here, thank Odin. Otherwise it would be very uncomfortable. It is most likely the routine. I've seen professionals stitch (not with prepunched holes, but with an sword-awl) and they are fast.^^
Why can't you split this up into sections and go like this?
I started off stitching the way you guys do. However there are times I cannot get the lines as consistent as I'd like on the backside. Ive started doing the french style with a saddle to get the angle on both sides. It's not as enjoyable as just handstitching so I don't do it for everything. Both are great for my style :)
Same! I can never get the back side of the stitches to angle correctly using the leapfrog method. French style with a stitching pony produces my most consistent results
thanks for a fab year have a great christmas
I really love your video which indeed inspired to try the leather crafts. Especially, these video for beginners, thank you so much
I also hand stitch all my projects. I think the stitching is one of the most important parts of the look of the item. It took me a while but I'm finally happy with the look of my stitching. I use quality stitching irons, an awl and the right thread . All of which affect the look. I always stitch towards myself right hand first and cast the thread in a certain way. This is what works for me after countless trial and error and produces a nice looking tight diagonal laying stitch both front and back. Now I don't even bother considering another way of doing it. It's true what everyone says about finding the method that works for them. I tried several methods that worked for that person and for whatever reason didn't work for me.
Thank you, I use the saddle stitch as my standard stitch + every 7 loops, I make an inner knot (French knot).
Another problem with the out and back stitch is, like I found for me, I did not have dull tipped needles. My needles had sharp tips. When I went back a second time to get the look of a saddle stitch, my needles were tearing the first stitches threads. This also weakens the stitch. Sure, I have not had any of my stitches give out yet, but I have only been using them for six or seven years. A good leather piece should last longer than me. Okay, unless you are going into combat with them.
I enjoyed the video!
Dave T
I like the saddle stitch but like you I for years used to do the in and out or up and back method until I started repairing saddles and seen how the saddle stitch was done
thank you for the video! was trying to figure the difference between saddle vs out and back. next project is fieldnotes cover wallet!
Oh boy, I'm trying not to watch these but I can't help it!! I love to MAKE!! Loving this stitch, try kicking it up a notch and throw some embroidery in. If done properly I think they would look amazing together!! Just an idea, you asked for comments, but will you attempt it? We'll see.. lol
I built a stitching horse, work one way. Helps keep tension even on both theeads, and keeps the work neater, more professional. I've evwn had clients swear my saddle stitch was machine sewn...your method takes me twice as lobg, and I'm slow enough as is! 😁
I worked as a Sailmaker for a while and am used to handling long threads, but I quickly found that out and back for leatherwork gave twice the length of thread to deal with and sewing shoes it wound up hooking up on everything. So saddle stitch every time.
I’ve done Saddle stitch for years, and leather craft also, I don’t like making walets I love making coasters with custom patterns even did the ZZ Top car once, I’ve only done plane belts I want a sewing machine 😅for making thick belts my fingers get sore, but the thread the sewing machines use don’t look as good to me I want a nice machine if I get one.
appreciate the video. a french saddle seem is just what i needed for the out soles of my shoes since it's very high wear and if any of the thread breaks the shoes won't fall apart (couldn't glue them).
This so so informative!! Thank you! I have always wondered about these methods.
Great advice about not learning bad habits that you have to unlearn! Trying to unlearn muscle memory is sooooo difficult… I would never use that out and back because I could never get it straight and it would drive me crazy… I'm new to this craft… been doing it for a couple of months now and your videos, along with the ones from weaver have been my go to for learning new techniques… the other day I wanted to join two pieces together because I didn’t have a long enough piece to do what I wanted to do… so I figured I would just sew them together… I basically did a French seem without knowing that is what it was called… the. I saw your video on the French seem and I was just smacking my head on the wall wish I had seen that video first! I'm making a quiver for my daughter and now that I know who to do it properly, guess what is getting redone? THANK GOD I did not use any glue so, I can just undo the stitching, trim the ends, skive the ends properly and put them back together… so quiver will have a stitch line in the middle of the quiver all the way around it… it will just look like it was done purposefully for decorative purposes :) …. Thank you for your videos. They are wonderful!
I use the saddle stitch method with knot for majority of work. It looks cleaner to include benefits described in video. I do not add knots when doing final two back stitch which gives cleaner look. The only time I use a pony now is when doing long stitch lines, I.e., belt. Otherwise, I do not use it., I.e., sheaths, wallets, purse or holster. I would pay attention to size of pricking iron/chisel holes, string size and needle size which can make it much easier when adding knot and last few back stitches. As usual, I enjoy these videos. Merry CHRISTmas!!!!!!!
Best stitching video I’ve seen! Just got yourself another subscriber 🙂
really comprehensive and informative. Thank you so much for your time and effort involved in this.
I've heard that to reduce wear on stiches, cut or press a slight groove into the edge of the leather, then punch your holes in the groove. The thread will then sit below the surface in the groove.
Love how you explain in details, very informative 👌. Subscribed to your channel.
For the nine pairs of shoes I've made I went with 'out and back'. With viewing this video I understand where I went wrong!
I created a very small holster for 1 or 2 keys as they damage my pockets all the time if my 2 keys are in there loose and all. Made from some leftovers that were pretty smooth and shiny, so had a bad grip for such a small piece.
So I used the outside stitch for that "key case"/"key holster" as it provides my fingers better grip when I take it out and also stays in my pockets.
I just restitch it every year or so, use some simpler cheaper thread and am good to go.
Love your videos and your work. Have you ever thought about tackling a pair of cowboy boots? I am still an amatuer but began looking out of curiosity only to find out there is little information out there when it comes to boot making!
I sometimes use a double whip stitch for bracelets sewing the glued on suede on the inside to the tooled or sometimes just alligator skin. I literally do each stitch like a saddle stitch using two needles so I can arrange where the X goes. I obviously don't want it on the bottom, but on the top so the bracelet looks like it is surrounded with little X's. Works well with thin lace too.
Be sure and do a test piece to see how much thread you use per inch as a Whip Stitch uses a lot of thread and a double Whip uses 5 to 6 inches per inch. It is why I only use it on something small like a bracelet and it is hard to hide a splice if you run short.
I have been tying that knot with my saddle stitch for decades. I just thought it made for a tighter stitch. I never knew it had a name! Then again, there were no computers or You Tube when I started leather work. Very cool.
I recently did a red white and blue dog collar. The leather was blue but I did separate running stitches of red and white. I was wondering if you have any thoughts on doing the stitching as a saddle stitch. I did 2 running stitches not the technique I am outlining. Basically a double stitch at the first stitch for the red and white threads to anchor them. Then using the saddle stitch technique for the stitch line. The effect was nice with alternating red and white stitches but was a bit wavy with 2 separate running stitches.
I would love to see a video specifically on leather lacing.
Thank you for the great content. I largely only use saddle stitching due to it's durable nature, HOWEVER...for me, the secret to a good-looking stitch is to use stitching punches, or make sure to can't the awl at the proper angle. When I individually punch round holes, just doesn't look as good.
First, thanks for the nice detailed video. Second, what is the type of thread and the standard type of stitching for a watch, wallet, bag and medal?
Excellent tutorial! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills. I appreciate it.
My favorite stitching pattern is a lockstitch its strong and looks great when you do it right. Though the one I tend to use most is a saddle stitch.
Depends on the length of the stitch line I'm doing. If it's for a small wallet I will do a saddle stitch without using a stitching pony. If it's a longer stitch line I will use a saddle pony because it helps hold everything together as I stitch. When using lace I will do a double round loop.
2 needle saddle stitch it is.
Great resource.
Couldn't find this in a book, nobody seems to teach this.
Fantastic video. Can't wait to start leather work
Thank you so much for this tutorial on the stitches. May I ask you please if you have any tips for me? I have a medical condition that makes my legs swell to unbelievable size. It’s very painful, but as this happens daily, I am extremely limited in the shoes I can wear. I have purchased a pair of second hand shoes and the strap that goes around the ankle is too small. I knew this when purchasing them, but I have purchased vinyl to lengthen the straps. I dare not try this in an expensive pair of leather shoes as yet until I am sure it will work, so that is why I thought it best to cut my teeth on vinyl first.
I have cut a length of vinyl in the same shape as the original strap and glued it to the old strap, it is much longer. I am now going to sew it together using your saddle stitch that you showed in this video. I did wonder first though, have you any suggestions for thread? Also have you any advice at all on glues to use. I used a flexible gel superglue and it comes in tiny bottles, so it will work out expensive in the long run. Would I be able to use any glue you suggest on vinyl and on leathers please? One last thing, is there anything that I should be putting between the two pieces of vinyl to help them with being more sturdy?
I am about to go and see the pieces of vinyl to the original strap now that I have checked if they will fit, so fingers crossed. However for future reference, I really would appreciate any advice you could give me on this. Being able to wear shoes again will be life changing for me in many instances, I am worried though, that due to inexperience with these types of materials, I will go out and they break on me adding to my embarrassment of my very swollen legs.
Thank you so much for any help or advice. 😊
First Merry Christmas to you and your family's. You taught me how to stich. Before the pandemic stared I wanted to do leather craft as something to do when I retired from working in the railroad. What are your thoughts on the cross stitch. I've seen times I thought the X was better on the outside rather then to back and forth. I've used this on the hats I've made.
I generally glue my peices together then I cut. A grove and use a running stitch. But I am also making holsters so the stitching is more of a one part of a 2 part bonding process.
the sneeze brough so much life to the video haha. great content too
When doing a saddle stitch, do you thread in the same direction with the second thread? Or go the opposite direction? Or does it not matter either way?
I am a starter in leathercraft and some of my questions might sound silly or naive... but as I said as a former flight instructor, there's no stupid question as long as it makes you learn something and keep out of trouble. So here's the question: since the main problem with the running stitch is how the stitching is going to wear out, is it imaginable, before even punching the holes, to create a groove in the leather inside which the thread would kind of insert? This way the thread would actually stick out less and maybe even not at all... I understand it could also look kind of packed inside the groove, thus screwing the esthetics a bit, but maybe a slightly wider groove would make it work? Just an idea... what do you think?
@Hugo Millère - a "U" or "V" Grove can certainly be used for this purpose and in some cases actually helps with the asthetics of the work - BUT - in the case of the up and back stitch it still doesn't help with the tension problem. So then you pretty much have put a bandaid on a bullet wound so to speak. Good thinking though, I do use a "U" groove often when I am lining a piece with a thinner leather like a suede and it's for exactly the reason you came up with. Think a belt or shoulder strap with an inner lining that will potentially have a bunch of friction, but instead of grooving the suede liner which is likely too thin to groove, you put the groove on the heavy leather of the inside of the belt on your stitch line so it pulls the liner into the groove when you stitch and if you have your depth right everything is pretty uniform.
You can cut a groove and stitch inside it. This used to be popular on horse tack to protect the stitching from thorns and twigs. It's ok on thick leather, but it does weaken it. The top surface is the most compressed, epidermis, so it's the strongest part. If you cut into it, you have a line of thinner, weaker leather for your stitches. It's also more prone to water soaking in, so you would need to wax it and keep it oiled which in turn will rot natural threads like linen.
Better to have a few stitches cut and be able to repair them when you get home, than to have a seam rip out on you and have to replace a whole panel.
I use a similar stitching to the last one for my folding knifes cases, instead of going all around, I go in between the 2 pieces of leather, it gives a very nice finish, and it’s very strong and adapt perfectly to different shapes that you put inside. It’s quite complicated to explain what it looks like though 😅
I use one of those everyday, and so far, it didn’t disappoint me !
Is it like, you do that stitch and then turn the piece inside out so the seam is inside? Otherwise I'm confused lol
Cutting a stitching grove lowers the thread into the leather. I like your vids. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
I only ever used faux leather (yeay, money is tight) but your advice seem to work for it too, so thanks you for this vid !
Wishing you and everyone a blessed 2022 :)
Omg this video just save my day💖 thank you very much🌸
Be safe, and have a happy holiday season.....
As was mentioned in another comment, if the leather is thick enough, use a groover to make a groove to match the thread size so the top of the thread is just below the surface of the leather. That way, the amount wear on the thread is practically zero. If not grooved, you can also use a hammer on the stich line to press the stitches into the leather. But it won't be as good as a groove.