Incredible veneer repair! I am in the process of repairing/restoring teak veneer on my 45yo power yacht. Your informative video gave me the inspiration to repair some sanded through areas instead of replacing it. Thank you!
I am using this technique. Have done the first layer. I am so thrilled! This is going to work. I thought I had truly ruined it. Thank you thank you🙋🏼♀️
Thank you for this wonderful video on how to fix a sanding "oops". I have flat slab birch veneer kitchen cabinet doors I am refinishing, someone painted them a horrid DMV flesh color, and I went a little too far on one. What color Mohawk Blendal powder would you suggest?
Birch is difficult because it will depend if there is any red tone in it. Pine and blonde have some red Oak and yellow don't Also would get some white If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Hey Dan, enjoyed your video. I am a newbie in furniture repair. I purchased a old dresser, the kind with wavy drawers. It's beautiful but needs repairs. Also when I took off the old finish the veneer is very orange. Yucky! So my question is am I supposed to add a green stain to the dresser drawers to have a more brown color? I purchased a green stain at Sherwin Williams but its too dark, it turns the veneer dark brown. Can I purchase a lighter green and have the effect that I want. I am looking for a medium brown color. The dresser looks like mahogany to me, but what do I know. LOL. I would appreciate your advice. Thank you
I use yellow to balance the red out, It may take a couple coats but it is a much lighter result. I tint my clear coats rather than us stain because it allows me to control the saturation and do light applications or you can use toners from mohawk. You just have to be compatible with the clear you are using. Also u can use a transtint or a mixol to tint your clear with a yellow or very thin green.
Hey, Dan just getting to ordering the pigment now. Is there a brush kit you can recommend I'm kind of new to this process but I build cigar box guitars also so this will come in very handy for those also. Thanks again!
I use normal brushes from a hobby store. I get a few different sizes, a very small one and 2-3 sizes up and a fan brush. I don't spend a lot of money on them just generic brushes. Best of luck!
Loved your video! Quick question… You said you make up your own sealer. You said you would do a video on it as well. I can’t find it anywhere. Would love to know how to make my own. In the meantime, can I use just any lacquer spray? Does it have to be a sanding sealer? Thank you in advance for your help.
Will try and get a video on our sealer, we just use a re-usable spray can and create the mix ourselves. But any spray lacquer as long as it is solvent based(not water based) should work fine. Have fun, best of luck! If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Hi. I sanded and stained a desk I am redoing. There are two spots where this is an issue. Should I seal the whole desk and then fix the two spots? Thank you!
Can you tell me what to use for sanded oak veneer? I have two small areas where I sanded through. I have some acrylics but cannot seem to replicate that raw wood tone.
Hey, Dan! Thanks for this video. I thought I had ruined my girlfriends table when I was sanding to prep the wood for finishing. The wood prep I used claims to deter blotching and balance the poly/stain I used on the first coat but the small areas of sand through still haunt me! I intend to move up to 150 grit and hit it again.Can I use spray shellac as a sealer between repair and coats of stain/poly and would moving to a darker finish help? Thanks!
Shellac should work well just make sure it's de-waxed shellac. The rule is 'everything sticks to shellac and shellac sticks to everything' The mohawk blendal powders should work with shellac. If you practice you may not need to darken the next coat too hide the damage. Feel free to email pics to me at danthefurniturerepairman@gmail.com if you need some color advice. Best of luck!
Hello. I have a question and hope to get an answer from you 😊 I can’t get these products from Mohawk where I live so will it be ok to use any stain? Thank you 😊
You can use what is compatible with your clear coat, Transtint and mixol and others makes dyes that can be added to other mediums to create colors. For years I used oil based artists paint in tubes to custom mix colors and add to oil based clear for touch ups and I also thinned out paints and stains if I felt that would work. Compatibility between the colors and the base and top coat is most important, chemical reactions can take weeks to occur and you can be done with the work before you see that there is a problem. You can order Mohawk products and have them shipped to you here is a link woodrepairproducts.com/ Hope that helps If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Good morning! Thanks for the video! One question though. Can you begin the process on raw wood or does it need to be sealed first? Thanks and I look forward to your reply! Dan
You can start with raw wood but it will act like a stain, penetrating the wood fibers which is OK. I always seal the wood first because it lets me see the color of the wood and I can adjust my touch up to that color also if the my first layer is a bad choice it lets me sand it off and go again because it hasn't absorbed into the wood fibers.
thank you for the reply. I have another question for you though. I do not do any lacquer spraying because I'm not set up for it. Therefore I hand apply polyurethane. But before I apply polyurethane I put down shellac. With this information, what should I be mixing my pigments with and if I need to remove it from the surface, what's the best product to do that? Thanks
Are you able to show how to fix a bubbled veneer (mahogany form the '40s or '50s) I've been all over TH-cam and every video that shows how to do it is about soft veneer that's pliable, or on an edge (not a bubble) - not one that's been there for years and that's rock hard. Thanks
I will make a video the next time we have a veneer bubble. My process would depend on the type of bubble. I usually slice the veneer and see if I can press it flat, if I can then I use a glue syringe and press the veneer back down with clamps or a heavy weight. If there is something under the veneer or if the veneer is wrinkled, I cut a semi circle so I can fold the veneer back and remove what is causing the trouble . Sometimes on very old veneer the wood has shrunk underneath and you need to slice out a small amount of the veneer with the grain to make it lay flat again. If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is paypal.me/furniturerepairman
It can work with danish oil but you will need to find a tinting agent that is compatible with it and I would mix that with the oil itself and not use sealer or lacquer. Mixol makes tints that mite be compatible practice on a scrap piece and see how it goes.
I'm not sure, the color needs to be sealed in with sealer or shellac, you can check Rubio's spec sheet and see if it can be applied over either one. It may create differences in the sheen and color also. Maybe do a few tests on areas that aren't very visable.
Very creative solution, I didn't see anything like it anywhere and I've been researching over-sanding solutions for hours. I'm curios, there was a much bigger discoloration blotch to the left of the area you worked on that more closely resembles the consequences of my over-sanding (I was attacking a very stubborn large black water stain) . Are you going to touch paint that as well ?
Hello, Thanks for watching. That area isn't burned through just a lighter area of the piece and the lighting is reflecting off it. But if it was burned through we would use the same technique on it. If you have black stains oxalic acid sometimes works well on removing/reducing them. Good luck with your project and have lots of fun with it.
Hello, Teak is funny because it can have a green hue to it The key is to stay away from red hues. In the mohawk blendals Oak, Perfect Brown, Van Dyke all are on the green side and I would try them and see how they matched up.
Good question Yes but the piece has to be sealed also because sealer will change the color of the stain. I seal with lacquer sealer. If you are using anything else you may have to coat with shellac before you touch up and after to protect it. The rule is shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac! Hope that helps
hi dan, thank you, I sanded through the veneer so deeply. I did not realize it was a veneered bench till after the fact.. learning. can I fill in a semi deep spot with the powder? or should I call it a day? rebecca
You can fill the deep spot with a putty and sand it to the level of the rest of the piece. Maybe drip some thin instant glue around the veneer edge to keep it in place. Then color it to match. It may take a few tries to get the color correct but look at each failure as a learning experience. In my shop we say 'We succeed by failing' Feel free to email me pics at danthefurniturerepairman@gamil.com and I will see if I can offer any suggestions.
Incredible veneer repair! I am in the process of repairing/restoring teak veneer on my 45yo power yacht. Your informative video gave me the inspiration to repair some sanded through areas instead of replacing it. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful.
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
One of, if not the best video on the subject. Thank you for this!!
You're the first one I've found who's method is actually seemoess. Thank you so much for sharing!🥰
Glad you found it helpful.
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Good colouring back technique and very generous of you to share and teach your skills.
I am using this technique. Have done the first layer. I am so thrilled! This is going to work. I thought I had truly ruined it. Thank you thank you🙋🏼♀️
This is great! Thanks for sharing!
Glad it helped.
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Glad it helped
Beautiful repair
Thank You!
That was awesome. I learn so much from you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this wonderful video on how to fix a sanding "oops". I have flat slab birch veneer kitchen cabinet doors I am refinishing, someone painted them a horrid DMV flesh color, and I went a little too far on one. What color Mohawk Blendal powder would you suggest?
Birch is difficult because it will depend if there is any red tone in it.
Pine and blonde have some red
Oak and yellow don't
Also would get some white
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
This is pretty dang cool!
Yes it is.
Thanks for watching
Hey Dan, enjoyed your video. I am a newbie in furniture repair. I purchased a old dresser, the kind with wavy drawers. It's beautiful but needs repairs. Also when I took off the old finish the veneer is very orange. Yucky! So my question is am I supposed to add a green stain to the dresser drawers to have a more brown color? I purchased a green stain at Sherwin Williams but its too dark, it turns the veneer dark brown. Can I purchase a lighter green and have the effect that I want. I am looking for a medium brown color. The dresser looks like mahogany to me, but what do I know. LOL. I would appreciate your advice. Thank you
I use yellow to balance the red out, It may take a couple coats but it is a much lighter result.
I tint my clear coats rather than us stain because it allows me to control the saturation and do light applications or you can use toners from mohawk.
You just have to be compatible with the clear you are using.
Also u can use a transtint or a mixol to tint your clear with a yellow or very thin green.
Hey, Dan just getting to ordering the pigment now. Is there a brush kit you can recommend I'm kind of new to this process but I build cigar box guitars also so this will come in very handy for those also. Thanks again!
I use normal brushes from a hobby store.
I get a few different sizes, a very small one and 2-3 sizes up and a fan brush.
I don't spend a lot of money on them just generic brushes.
Best of luck!
So helpful!! Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful.
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Loved your video! Quick question… You said you make up your own sealer. You said you would do a video on it as well. I can’t find it anywhere. Would love to know how to make my own. In the meantime, can I use just any lacquer spray? Does it have to be a sanding sealer? Thank you in advance for your help.
Will try and get a video on our sealer, we just use a re-usable spray can and create the mix ourselves.
But any spray lacquer as long as it is solvent based(not water based) should work fine.
Have fun, best of luck!
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Hi. I sanded and stained a desk I am redoing. There are two spots where this is an issue. Should I seal the whole desk and then fix the two spots? Thank you!
Yes seal the piece first, then apply color.
Thanks For watching!
Sorry it took so long to get back to you.
Thank you!@@danthefurniturerepairman9411
Can you tell me what to use for sanded oak veneer? I have two small areas where I sanded through. I have some acrylics but cannot seem to replicate that raw wood tone.
Mohawk mikes an oak blendal powder the should work.
Hey, Dan! Thanks for this video. I thought I had ruined my girlfriends table when I was sanding to prep the wood for finishing. The wood prep I used claims to deter blotching and balance the poly/stain I used on the first coat but the small areas of sand through still haunt me! I intend to move up to 150 grit and hit it again.Can I use spray shellac as a sealer between repair and coats of stain/poly and would moving to a darker finish help? Thanks!
Shellac should work well just make sure it's de-waxed shellac.
The rule is 'everything sticks to shellac and shellac sticks to everything'
The mohawk blendal powders should work with shellac. If you practice you may not need to darken the next coat too hide the damage.
Feel free to email pics to me at danthefurniturerepairman@gmail.com if you need some color advice.
Best of luck!
@@danthefurniturerepairman9411 Fantastic! Thanks, Dan! On that note, what happened to Z amber spray schellac?
Hello. I have a question and hope to get an answer from you 😊 I can’t get these products from Mohawk where I live so will it be ok to use any stain? Thank you 😊
You can use what is compatible with your clear coat, Transtint and mixol and others makes dyes that can be added to other mediums to create colors.
For years I used oil based artists paint in tubes to custom mix colors and add to oil based clear for touch ups and I also thinned out paints and stains if I felt that would work.
Compatibility between the colors and the base and top coat is most important, chemical reactions can take weeks to occur and you can be done with the work before you see that there is a problem.
You can order Mohawk products and have them shipped to you here is a link
woodrepairproducts.com/
Hope that helps
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Good morning! Thanks for the video! One question though. Can you begin the process on raw wood or does it need to be sealed first? Thanks and I look forward to your reply! Dan
You can start with raw wood but it will act like a stain, penetrating the wood fibers which is OK.
I always seal the wood first because it lets me see the color of the wood and I can adjust my touch up to that color also if the my first layer is a bad choice it lets me sand it off and go again because it hasn't absorbed into the wood fibers.
thank you for the reply. I have another question for you though. I do not do any lacquer spraying because I'm not set up for it. Therefore I hand apply polyurethane. But before I apply polyurethane I put down shellac. With this information, what should I be mixing my pigments with and if I need to remove it from the surface, what's the best product to do that? Thanks
What would you suggest for repairing Gumwood veneer that's been sanded in spots? Gumwood is no longer available.
If you email me some pics at danthefurniturerepairman@gmail.com I will look at them and see how I can help.
Are you able to show how to fix a bubbled veneer (mahogany form the '40s or '50s) I've been all over TH-cam and every video that shows how to do it is about soft veneer that's pliable, or on an edge (not a bubble) - not one that's been there for years and that's rock hard. Thanks
I will make a video the next time we have a veneer bubble.
My process would depend on the type of bubble.
I usually slice the veneer and see if I can press it flat, if I can then I use a glue syringe and press the veneer back down with clamps or a heavy weight.
If there is something under the veneer or if the veneer is wrinkled, I cut a semi circle so I can fold the veneer back and remove what is causing the trouble .
Sometimes on very old veneer the wood has shrunk underneath and you need to slice out a small amount of the veneer with the grain to make it lay flat again.
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
This is really great, thanks! Do you think it might still work if one finished with danish oil, rather than laquer?
It can work with danish oil but you will need to find a tinting agent that is compatible with it and I would mix that with the oil itself and not use sealer or lacquer.
Mixol makes tints that mite be compatible practice on a scrap piece and see how it goes.
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
@@danthefurniturerepairman9411 thanks!
Can you use a hard wax oil finish like Rubio Monocrat over the color repair?
I'm not sure, the color needs to be sealed in with sealer or shellac, you can check Rubio's spec sheet and see if it can be applied over either one. It may create differences in the sheen and color also. Maybe do a few tests on areas that aren't very visable.
Very creative solution, I didn't see anything like it anywhere and I've been researching over-sanding solutions for hours. I'm curios, there was a much bigger discoloration blotch to the left of the area you worked on that more closely resembles the consequences of my over-sanding (I was attacking a very stubborn large black water stain) . Are you going to touch paint that as well ?
Hello,
Thanks for watching.
That area isn't burned through just a lighter area of the piece and the lighting is reflecting off it.
But if it was burned through we would use the same technique on it.
If you have black stains oxalic acid sometimes works well on removing/reducing them.
Good luck with your project and have lots of fun with it.
Would love to know what shade you would use for teak
Hello,
Teak is funny because it can have a green hue to it
The key is to stay away from red hues.
In the mohawk blendals
Oak, Perfect Brown, Van Dyke all are on the green side and I would try them and see how they matched up.
Thanks so much for watching
If you want to donate to support our channel our PayPal is
paypal.me/furniturerepairman
Another great video
Thanks again!
Do you do this after sanding and staining the color you want?
Good question
Yes but the piece has to be sealed also because sealer will change the color of the stain. I seal with lacquer sealer. If you are using anything else you may have to coat with shellac before you touch up and after to protect it.
The rule is shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac!
Hope that helps
Thanks
Your Welcome
Neat to know. Thank you man. Keep it up
Thanks, will do!
Awesome video thanks!
Glad you liked it!
hi dan, thank you, I sanded through the veneer so deeply. I did not realize it was a veneered bench till after the fact.. learning. can I fill in a semi deep spot with the powder? or should I call it a day?
rebecca
You can fill the deep spot with a putty and sand it to the level of the rest of the piece. Maybe drip some thin instant glue around the veneer edge to keep it in place.
Then color it to match.
It may take a few tries to get the color correct but look at each failure as a learning experience.
In my shop we say 'We succeed by failing'
Feel free to email me pics at danthefurniturerepairman@gamil.com and I will see if I can offer any suggestions.