As somone working at for a mechanical engineering institute at a technical university, there are a few tips i can give you: You are using a asyncronous motor, it's rotational speed depends only on pairs of poles on the stator of you motor (cant be changed) and the net frequency (in your case 50Hz) of your 3-phase power. So a vfd is your only option for a soft start. On the V-belt pulleys your grooves should be deeper than the belt. The widest part of the belt should sit below the outer diameter of your pulleys. The way it is now, you are wasing area of your belt that could transmit torque. If you make your pulley grooves deeper, check for the correct side angles and tension the belt, you should be able to get rid of the slippage problem. (take a look into a machinery handbook for the measurements) Rubbing or the lack of that, in terms of bearings depends on the type of side covers. A type 2RS is with non touching rubber seals (they have a very small gap between them and the inner bearing race), while a 2RSR is with two touching rubber seals. (2RSR can also stop rubbing if the seal is worn down) A poly-v-belt is a combination of a falt and a v-belt. It is mainly used for small diameters to wind around and still need more torque than a flat belt. On the same diamteters of the pulleys (if they ar big enough for a v-belt) a v-belt can transmit more power than a poly-v-belt. The slippage you got with the poly-v-belt was only halve of what you would get in normal operation, because the blade wasn't installed so the top wheel wasn't contributing to the start up load. If you'd like i can give more details about belt, bearings and other machine components
He could do soft start with a star/triangle configuration switch. It will not lower rpm but the current will be lower. But that is more for installation that can't take the inrush current and not constructions that struggle with the mechanics.
@@FreeOfFantasy that would probably not work on this Motor. If it is default wired up as a star configuration it is a 230/400v motor and not rated for delta with 400v between 2 phases. If it was a 400/690V motor then a star-delta startup would work. You could try a softstarter (basically a three phase dimmer) wich raises the voltage/current slowly, but a vfd is the best option i think
@@FreeOfFantasy for soft start this would be fine, but for continous speed adjustment this does not work. A VFD is really not that expensive for this size motor.
@@InExFan01 A dimmer would lower only the voltage, and with that the motor torque only. This could help, but the speed would still be the same. That can only be changed by frequency variation.
"Didn't really go as planned. It basically was just a constant problem, solving it, moving onto the next problem and so on." You just described life my friend... Great video as usual.
Greetings from the USA! Very impressed with your problem solving abilities, and the fact you always give yourself allowances for mistakes and show us those issues as well. Always look forward to new videos!
It is a joy to watch such an intelligent creative person. I speak no German and your English is excellent. I heard you say damages and felt a need to google the word. What is the difference between damage and damages? Damage means “loss or injury to a person or property”. It is an uncountable singular noun and has no plural form. ... Damages means “money claimed by, or ordered to be paid to, a person as compensation for loss or injury”.Feb 21, 2011
Great video Marius. Your videos have a great balance of being informative without being long winded or boring, having enough visual interest on screen, nice explanations etc. Most makers I see seem to have long explanations without a lot of energy or show the process quickly without explaining what's going on. Being concise is apparently an art form you've done well at. I also like the outtakes sections at the end :)
One of your best videos. TH-cam is full of good how to make a thing videos. But the in depth explanation of why you do things the way you do, and how and why things don't go according to plan set you apart from the crowd. Thanks.
The large starting torque of the motor is not important to using the bandsaw - torque at operating speed is what matters, so soft starting it will not detract from its function, and probably reduce stresses on everything as well.
@@MiniLuv-1984 I agree. A nice, smooth soft start is the best for a motor, especially if it has a huge load. A direct start (like contactor) will always be more brutal for the windings, but it doesn't mean that they break quicly, they last still a long time
@@jecceworks Yes, very true, but in relation to lasting longer under soft start, I was concerned for the rest of the bandsaw. That slop in the shaft mount may have been caused by the high torque starts.
It also cant be used with this Motor. The motor is a 230V/400V motor running of a 400V mains. So switching it to delta will just burn it up. If you had a 400V / 690V Motor this would be an option.
@@Alexander470815 I agree with you. Another hint for Marius H.: If the VFD is single phase driven at 230V (L to N), you need to change the motor from Star to Delta config. If the VFD works with three phase, you can leave it in Star config. - For lower power (e.g. 2kW) it's typical, that the VFD is used with 230V. Pls have a look to the specs. Otherwise you will only have 1/3 of the nominal power
I’ve been a part of your channel now for the latter part of four years I thoroughly enjoy your videos and can’t tell you how much I’ve learned over the time just wanna give you a big thank you keep up the great work and I wish I had patience like you sir
Hell yeah! Toolmaking content is the best. I love seeing 3d prints in real applications. I think the most impressive I've ever seen is successfully running a 3d printed lathe changegear for over a year.
It is very satisfying to watch you work. You have made so many things now that function properly, and your attention now is on fixing relatively smaller problems and improving the longevity of your machines. Thanks for bringing us along on the journey. I'm willing to bet that you will be responsible for some very nice products in the future.
I haven't run across one of your videos for quite a while. I watched you build this saw back then. Was really nice to see your face and hear your voice again.
7:29 note, the pulleys probably weren't actually being driven by the screws, if so they probably would've sheared off long ago with all the large fluctuations in torque over its lifespan. instead, the main force the screws were seeing was the constant tension from when you initially drove the screws in. that tension pulls the two parts together with significant force, that force is multiplied by the materials' coefficient of static friction, and that friction force is what actually transmits the torque. this is why well engineered bolted connections can have higher shear strength than that of the bolts themselves (and also why you can get away with oversized bolt holes but still end up with something very rigid)
Marius, I have been following your channel ever since you started. Yes you have come a long way, but you were a smart young man from the very beginning. I'm a woodworker, turning, so I can appreciate your skill level. Well above mine. Engineers would be jealous of your ability to trouble shoot and problem solve, be proud.
Marius, I wouldn't normally mention this because your English is already so good - certainly far, far better than my German - but you use this word several times in this film. The word "damage" as in "damage to a bearing", is always singular. "Damages", on the other hand, has a very specific meaning: it refers to compensation ordered by a court to be paid to someone who has suffered damage caused by someone else (to their property, their reputation or something else that has a financial consequence for the person damaged).
It’s definitely an interesting experience taking apart something you built at an earlier point in your woodwork/engineering/life journey. Skill-wise you are always evolving as a builder, hopefully always becoming a better one, and digging through your old thought processes can be very interesting. Love your work.
Der Trick ist ein Frequenzumrichter oder ein ein Sanftstarter (günstig gebraucht zu bekommen).Damit lässt sich der Drehzahlanstieg schön einstellen und das rutschen des Riemens verhindern.
Great job! I stuck with it and enjoyed every minute. I love your problem solving attitude. Looking forward to to replacement pulley video and further upgrade.
To help the seals out, you could 3d-print/make a simple cap to mount over it to seal it of from dust. Even the slightest of wood dust will suck grease out, which then starts to increase wear on the rubber letting more dust in. I think it will expand the life of the bearings and is a pretty easy add-on.
For future projects, if you use an oil-based paint, or waterborne enamel you will not have to deal with the sticky-paint problem. It is great to see how well your saw is holding up - I very much wish to make one myself someday. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Oh Marius, deine Arbeitspräzision ist unglaublich... Super Sache, der jetzt noch verbleibende Schlupf wird wahrscheinlich von dem Frequenzumrichter eliminiert werden...
I was making a jigg to sharpen my planes with the other day and I got to turning old skateboard wheels... that produces loooong, stiff, tough rubberbands :) turning stuff that isnt "right" is fun.
Great video, Marius~! I always learn something from your projects. Your videos could be over an hour and I'd be there hanging onto every word. Very educational~! Thank you~!
Well, if anything, it's improved your mechanical knowledge in the development of the pulley systems, and you've also increased the life span of your device.
3:24 The old way of checking the bearing for noise. A solid rod (wood, metal) rests with one end on the axis of rotation of the bearing, the other to your ear. That is, if there is no stethoscope.
I think that type of indicator (the one used at around 26:15) only shows the correct value when placed at 12.5° or something and when placed at different angles a factor has to be used. Might be wrong though.
26:06 The flip of the dial indicator had me laughing! Also, I think the pairing of 3D printer and lathe (or a milling machine) is a great use, you can keep material lost at a very low percentage.
I upgraded my metal lathe (1943 Reed Prentice) from 3HP 3ph to 5HP single phase (I don't have 3ph power). The starting torque was SO strong I felt it would break the lathe's drive chain, so I changed capacitors & it starts very well now.
This project ended up as a tour of several previous build projects. I was very interested to see how your printed parts cut on the lathe. Getting the speed right on plastics can be tricky. A very enjoyable project. Component failure is something we all face. Perhaps you should look for a flexible bearing puller. they can be useful.
Marius, in order to resolve your problem of slipping belt there are two options. One is cheap Soft Starter with ramp and more expensive is Frequency converter which besides soft starting function offers variable drive of your electrical motor. However, there is the third solution which is changing AC motor for a DC motor which allows you control of running according to load. The best is frequency converter because it offers full control over the AC motor. The only problem is price. Lots of music comes with lots of money. Soft starter is not a Delta/Star because this totally obsolete system is already part of every motor and does not reduces starting current spikes.
Marius, I've followed your channel since before the scissor lift(great project by the way) and I'm not bothered by the length of your videos. Your presentations fail to loose my interest but I understand your concern for a timely video. Thank you.
The VFD will solve the start torque issues and the added bonus is variable speed control. You will find that you can get the perfect blade speed for whatever material you are cutting and blade you are using.
I would never 3D print a part on a powerful electric motor driven cutting device. But if it works and it seems safe enough to operate, then I guess go with it. Really nice band saw that you have. I hope to have a band saw that could cut a fairly wide board like a table saw can, but with a small fraction of the noise. Then it could be used in an apartment, and it would be a lot safer than a table saw, or even a radial saw.
Installing a new bearing you could use a thicker bolt with some washer or a threaded rod with nuts. put it into the hole of the bearing and it will be probably faster and more straight than this clamp method. But great work i'm really envy for this bandsaw of yours.
Great work! I am a fan of multi groove pulleys. They transfer more torque, and run quieter. The variable frequency drive will definitely be an improvement. Even a small amount of start up slippage significantly accelerates wear, though the noise I heard on startup, with the final pulley, may have been motor whine.
Das war wieder ein sehr unterhaltsames und auch lehrreiches Video. Gut gemacht Marius. Bin sehr auf den Frequenzumrichter gespannt. Das wird sicher ein viel angenehmeres Gefühl beim Starten sein ;-)
Good stuff, the belt lengthens/slackens on the top side on start up, a small spring loaded idler pulley should solve the start up slip and aid tension on the belt. a cheap fix
A light weight dust cover over the bearing should dramatically reduce to dust issue. one option would be a rubber ring around the bearing into which a foam disk could fit. On the shaft side a helix can be use to eject dust that gets between the foam disk and shaft. A tensioner wheel could solve the slippage by pushing the lose belt down. Ah, bloopers, never work with primates or vampire squid.(Cthulhu, circa 997,883 BCE) :,D
A star/delta setup is only used to limits inrush current at startup for motors that run in delta mode. To stop the slip you would have to lower the starting RPM. That can be done with a softstart module or a variable frequency drive(Overkill for this application)
I think solid thic plastics like acetal are very good construction materials and a lot of times i like them much more than wood because they are not prone to splitting, water, expanding or cracking over time. The only issue is that they are much less readily available in stores.
A good example of why I sold my Prusa, that wobble on the lath of the printed down blue part means you probably also have one of those beds with around 0,5mm bow in it, which according to Egoprusa is okay due to the bed probe, but IMHO this (and a few other things) are unacceptable for its price class when you like to print mechanical parts. That aside, it's quite interesting to see a 3D Print being turned down on a lathe, I've surfaced some on a CNC but turning on a lathe? Yeah, I think I gotta try that out once I get my Paulimot :D
Star delta will work if you lower the input voltage by 1\sqrt(3) from mains. You can order a soft starter for your motor. It should be healthier for the grid and motor
That router circle jig is pure genius. Would a spring-loaded idler pulley running on the back side of the belt help with keeping constant tension. I've seen that on many vehicles which use a serpentine poly-v belt to drive multiple accessories off the motor crankshaft. My Rikon 10-325 bandsaw uses a drive belt like yours and belt tension is done with a idler pulley with a manual adjustment, no spring load.
I think that bearing wore out very quickly because a single bearing like that can’t really handle the moment the two belt tensions exert on it due to their axial offsets. I feel with the new bearing the same failure will only be a matter of time as the bending makes the inner race deflect with respect to the outer race and make the seals rub and wear down. Ideally, you need to add another bearing on that shaft to properly constrain that wheel and reduce any bending moments the bearings have to take.
Wenn du deinen Motor dauernd nur in Sternkonfiguration betreibst würde ein Schalter nichts mehr bringen. Eine weitere Lösungsmethode für dein Problem wäre ein vorgeschalteter Softstarter, welcher den Motor durch Anpassung der Frequenz, langsam beschleunigt. 🙂
This is great, but the jump up to VFD etc is a lot more cost. I would have been tempted to fix this mechanically, on the cheap. Or at least fix 80 or 90 % of it, probably won't match speeds exactly.. Possibly do it manually, with a small hand wheel you swing in to move things and get the wheels moving a little, so it isn't dead stop inertia. But this would work great with a small secondary motor, think of it as a starter/brake motor. Small motor on the back side, that can teeter so it normally doesn't touch. Front side lever, you hold it up and press a button, presses the shaft against the band wheel and spins it up in a second or few. Once you turn the saw off, hold the lever up a few seconds without the power on button and it acts as a drag brake. Spring pulls the lever down so the motor shaft is away from the wheel normally. With a little more work you could make it automatic. Flip the bandsaw main switch and it holds the start motor in for a few seconds, then lets it move away, power to the main motor and the start power goes off. Switch the saw off and the main power goes off, starter motor engages but with no power for 5 or 10 seconds to brake the saw. Probably way way cheaper than any sort of VFD and still fairly simple.
Wouldn't a cover plate, like the disc you had trouble removing keep dust out of the bearings? Positive retention could be achieved with large washers on some of the screws holding the belt pulley on.
As somone working at for a mechanical engineering institute at a technical university, there are a few tips i can give you:
You are using a asyncronous motor, it's rotational speed depends only on pairs of poles on the stator of you motor (cant be changed) and the net frequency (in your case 50Hz) of your 3-phase power. So a vfd is your only option for a soft start.
On the V-belt pulleys your grooves should be deeper than the belt. The widest part of the belt should sit below the outer diameter of your pulleys. The way it is now, you are wasing area of your belt that could transmit torque. If you make your pulley grooves deeper, check for the correct side angles and tension the belt, you should be able to get rid of the slippage problem. (take a look into a machinery handbook for the measurements)
Rubbing or the lack of that, in terms of bearings depends on the type of side covers. A type 2RS is with non touching rubber seals (they have a very small gap between them and the inner bearing race), while a 2RSR is with two touching rubber seals. (2RSR can also stop rubbing if the seal is worn down)
A poly-v-belt is a combination of a falt and a v-belt. It is mainly used for small diameters to wind around and still need more torque than a flat belt.
On the same diamteters of the pulleys (if they ar big enough for a v-belt) a v-belt can transmit more power than a poly-v-belt.
The slippage you got with the poly-v-belt was only halve of what you would get in normal operation, because the blade wasn't installed so the top wheel wasn't contributing to the start up load.
If you'd like i can give more details about belt, bearings and other machine components
He could do soft start with a star/triangle configuration switch. It will not lower rpm but the current will be lower. But that is more for installation that can't take the inrush current and not constructions that struggle with the mechanics.
@@FreeOfFantasy that would probably not work on this Motor. If it is default wired up as a star configuration it is a 230/400v motor and not rated for delta with 400v between 2 phases. If it was a 400/690V motor then a star-delta startup would work. You could try a softstarter (basically a three phase dimmer) wich raises the voltage/current slowly, but a vfd is the best option i think
@@InExFan01 A VFD is obviously the best solution, but not cheap. A three phase dimmer would be cheap at least.
@@FreeOfFantasy for soft start this would be fine, but for continous speed adjustment this does not work. A VFD is really not that expensive for this size motor.
@@InExFan01 A dimmer would lower only the voltage, and with that the motor torque only. This could help, but the speed would still be the same. That can only be changed by frequency variation.
"Didn't really go as planned. It basically was just a constant problem, solving it, moving onto the next problem and so on." You just described life my friend... Great video as usual.
Never worry about the vid being too long... love the more detailed content!
Focus Master: focusing on the neatly organized tools and the amazing amount of machinery on literally no floorspace: Masterfully humble.
Greetings from the USA! Very impressed with your problem solving abilities, and the fact you always give yourself allowances for mistakes and show us those issues as well. Always look forward to new videos!
It is a joy to watch such an intelligent creative person. I speak no German and your English is excellent. I heard you say damages and felt a need to google the word.
What is the difference between damage and damages?
Damage means “loss or injury to a person or property”. It is an uncountable singular noun and has no plural form. ... Damages means “money claimed by, or ordered to be paid to, a person as compensation for loss or injury”.Feb 21, 2011
Thanks you for that I was not aware that there was a difference!!
now thats a lot of damage
Great video Marius. Your videos have a great balance of being informative without being long winded or boring, having enough visual interest on screen, nice explanations etc. Most makers I see seem to have long explanations without a lot of energy or show the process quickly without explaining what's going on. Being concise is apparently an art form you've done well at. I also like the outtakes sections at the end :)
Dude, I could watch you all day long.
One of your best videos.
TH-cam is full of good how to make a thing videos.
But the in depth explanation of why you do things the way you do, and how and why things don't go according to plan set you apart from the crowd. Thanks.
Star-delta starter would not solve the issue, there is just not enough load on the motor. A soft starter or that vfd will solve the issue
The large starting torque of the motor is not important to using the bandsaw - torque at operating speed is what matters, so soft starting it will not detract from its function, and probably reduce stresses on everything as well.
@@MiniLuv-1984 I agree. A nice, smooth soft start is the best for a motor, especially if it has a huge load. A direct start (like contactor) will always be more brutal for the windings, but it doesn't mean that they break quicly, they last still a long time
@@jecceworks Yes, very true, but in relation to lasting longer under soft start, I was concerned for the rest of the bandsaw. That slop in the shaft mount may have been caused by the high torque starts.
It also cant be used with this Motor. The motor is a 230V/400V motor running of a 400V mains. So switching it to delta will just burn it up. If you had a 400V / 690V Motor this would be an option.
@@Alexander470815 I agree with you. Another hint for Marius H.: If the VFD is single phase driven at 230V (L to N), you need to change the motor from Star to Delta config. If the VFD works with three phase, you can leave it in Star config.
-
For lower power (e.g. 2kW) it's typical, that the VFD is used with 230V. Pls have a look to the specs. Otherwise you will only have 1/3 of the nominal power
Love that no mistakes were edited out.
I’ve been a part of your channel now for the latter part of four years I thoroughly enjoy your videos and can’t tell you how much I’ve learned over the time just wanna give you a big thank you keep up the great work and I wish I had patience like you sir
Hell yeah! Toolmaking content is the best.
I love seeing 3d prints in real applications. I think the most impressive I've ever seen is successfully running a 3d printed lathe changegear for over a year.
You are way too smart to be working in a home shop environment. An engineering firm or fabrication firm is where you need to be. 👍👍
It is very satisfying to watch you work. You have made so many things now that function properly, and your attention now is on fixing relatively smaller problems and improving the longevity of your machines.
Thanks for bringing us along on the journey. I'm willing to bet that you will be responsible for some very nice products in the future.
I haven't run across one of your videos for quite a while. I watched you build this saw back then. Was really nice to see your face and hear your voice again.
7:29 note, the pulleys probably weren't actually being driven by the screws, if so they probably would've sheared off long ago with all the large fluctuations in torque over its lifespan. instead, the main force the screws were seeing was the constant tension from when you initially drove the screws in. that tension pulls the two parts together with significant force, that force is multiplied by the materials' coefficient of static friction, and that friction force is what actually transmits the torque. this is why well engineered bolted connections can have higher shear strength than that of the bolts themselves (and also why you can get away with oversized bolt holes but still end up with something very rigid)
Pushing the technical boundaries on this project.
Awesome just awesome.
Thanks for sharing
Very much enjoyed this video. Love the combination of woodworking, 3D printing and plastic machining. Good pace throughout.
Marius, I have been following your channel ever since you started. Yes you have come a long way, but you were a smart young man
from the very beginning. I'm a woodworker, turning, so I can appreciate your skill level. Well above mine. Engineers would be jealous
of your ability to trouble shoot and problem solve, be proud.
8:54 this is THE most sophisticated and insane bearing pulling device ever
Marius, I wouldn't normally mention this because your English is already so good - certainly far, far better than my German - but you use this word several times in this film. The word "damage" as in "damage to a bearing", is always singular. "Damages", on the other hand, has a very specific meaning: it refers to compensation ordered by a court to be paid to someone who has suffered damage caused by someone else (to their property, their reputation or something else that has a financial consequence for the person damaged).
Great video. Thanks for making. Mistakes ARE learning. You ARE teaching!
It’s definitely an interesting experience taking apart something you built at an earlier point in your woodwork/engineering/life journey. Skill-wise you are always evolving as a builder, hopefully always becoming a better one, and digging through your old thought processes can be very interesting. Love your work.
Didn't even notice when 40 minutes passed.
Great job!
That bearing pulling method was so clever
Der Trick ist ein Frequenzumrichter oder ein ein Sanftstarter (günstig gebraucht zu bekommen).Damit lässt sich der Drehzahlanstieg schön einstellen und das rutschen des Riemens verhindern.
Great job! I stuck with it and enjoyed every minute. I love your problem solving attitude. Looking forward to to replacement pulley video and further upgrade.
how could you have commented 1 day ago? The video is only up 50 minutes
@@huansanders3036 I support him on Patreon and get early viewing.
@@huansanders3036 I support his work on Patreon and get early preview.
Brilliant method of persevering and turning a failure into a success!
To help the seals out, you could 3d-print/make a simple cap to mount over it to seal it of from dust. Even the slightest of wood dust will suck grease out, which then starts to increase wear on the rubber letting more dust in. I think it will expand the life of the bearings and is a pretty easy add-on.
+1 for the VFD camp. You'd also get rapid braking features and a knob to turn for metal cutting.
Haircut countdown made me laugh out loud!
For future projects, if you use an oil-based paint, or waterborne enamel you will not have to deal with the sticky-paint problem. It is great to see how well your saw is holding up - I very much wish to make one myself someday. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
14:50 That's a fancy lookin wrench! Damn!
Amazing precision. Impressive work. Thank you for sharing your techniques.
My comments were made before the out takes. Cudos on the slip ups we all make. Great stuff.
Way to fight through all the problems! Keep fixing and creating!
Yay SKF bearings for the win! Volvo was founded out of SKF as a wholly owned subsidiary.
Ooh, I can hardly wait for the sequel!
Oh Marius, deine Arbeitspräzision ist unglaublich...
Super Sache, der jetzt noch verbleibende Schlupf wird wahrscheinlich von dem Frequenzumrichter eliminiert werden...
I was making a jigg to sharpen my planes with the other day and I got to turning old skateboard wheels... that produces loooong, stiff, tough rubberbands :) turning stuff that isnt "right" is fun.
Great video, Marius~! I always learn something from your projects. Your videos could be over an hour and I'd be there hanging onto every word. Very educational~! Thank you~!
Well, if anything, it's improved your mechanical knowledge in the development of the pulley systems, and you've also increased the life span of your device.
9:00 - This is genius!
3:24 The old way of checking the bearing for noise. A solid rod (wood, metal) rests with one end on the axis of rotation of the bearing, the other to your ear. That is, if there is no stethoscope.
Cool method
Slow start probably would solve a lot! Great video!
I think that type of indicator (the one used at around 26:15) only shows the correct value when placed at 12.5° or something and when placed at different angles a factor has to be used. Might be wrong though.
It was a good video watching you work through the issues.
Your vids are amazing. Your craftsmanship is outstanding. You have some future ahead of you.
26:06 The flip of the dial indicator had me laughing! Also, I think the pairing of 3D printer and lathe (or a milling machine) is a great use, you can keep material lost at a very low percentage.
Marius, thank you for the video! I'm looking forward to the next part.
I upgraded my metal lathe (1943 Reed Prentice) from 3HP 3ph to 5HP single phase (I don't have 3ph power).
The starting torque was SO strong I felt it would break the lathe's drive chain, so I changed capacitors & it starts very well now.
This project ended up as a tour of several previous build projects. I was very interested to see how your printed parts cut on the lathe. Getting the speed right on plastics can be tricky. A very enjoyable project. Component failure is something we all face.
Perhaps you should look for a flexible bearing puller. they can be useful.
Very interesting and enjoyable video. Your perseverance is impressive.
Nice to see you have a record lathe from England
Marius, in order to resolve your problem of slipping belt there are two options. One is cheap Soft Starter with ramp and more expensive is Frequency converter which besides soft starting function offers variable drive of your electrical motor.
However, there is the third solution which is changing AC motor for a DC motor which allows you control of running according to load.
The best is frequency converter because it offers full control over the AC motor. The only problem is price. Lots of music comes with lots of money. Soft starter is not a Delta/Star because this totally obsolete system is already part of every motor and does not reduces starting current spikes.
Marius, I've followed your channel since before the scissor lift(great project by the way) and I'm not bothered by the length of your videos. Your presentations fail to loose my interest but I understand your concern for a timely video. Thank you.
the vfd will have a soft start you can program in also. great job,
The VFD will solve the start torque issues and the added bonus is variable speed control. You will find that you can get the perfect blade speed for whatever material you are cutting and blade you are using.
Marius, you do a great job. I look forward to your videos.
Star/Delta (Y/D) switch does work, but you need a motor that has different ratings for voltage.
great to see you again. Looking forward to Part 2.
I would never 3D print a part on a powerful electric motor driven cutting device. But if it works and it seems safe enough to operate, then I guess go with it. Really nice band saw that you have. I hope to have a band saw that could cut a fairly wide board like a table saw can, but with a small fraction of the noise. Then it could be used in an apartment, and it would be a lot safer than a table saw, or even a radial saw.
Awesome work! 😃👍🏻👊🏻 .... VFD will definitely help with that jerky start.
Installing a new bearing you could use a thicker bolt with some washer or a threaded rod with nuts. put it into the hole of the bearing and it will be probably faster and more straight than this clamp method. But great work i'm really envy for this bandsaw of yours.
Great work! I am a fan of multi groove pulleys. They transfer more torque, and run quieter. The variable frequency drive will definitely be an improvement. Even a small amount of start up slippage significantly accelerates wear, though the noise I heard on startup, with the final pulley, may have been motor whine.
Great video! I love your problem-solving skills. It’s wonderful to watch.
Das war wieder ein sehr unterhaltsames und auch lehrreiches Video.
Gut gemacht Marius. Bin sehr auf den Frequenzumrichter gespannt.
Das wird sicher ein viel angenehmeres Gefühl beim Starten sein ;-)
Good stuff, the belt lengthens/slackens on the top side on start up, a small spring loaded idler pulley should solve the start up slip and aid tension on the belt. a cheap fix
will be interesting to see how well plastic pulleys hold up, any rubbing or slipping will make things hot
It is my concern as well. PLA starts to soften as low as 60-70degC and here in this application we have speed and friction...
A light weight dust cover over the bearing should dramatically reduce to dust issue. one option would be a rubber ring around the bearing into which a foam disk could fit. On the shaft side a helix can be use to eject dust that gets between the foam disk and shaft.
A tensioner wheel could solve the slippage by pushing the lose belt down.
Ah, bloopers, never work with primates or vampire squid.(Cthulhu, circa 997,883 BCE) :,D
Love your safety shoes and socks 🤣😂. Good work mate
If reprinting, try nylon-filled, then pop for a vid.
Nice work that is always informative and adventurous.
A star/delta setup is only used to limits inrush current at startup for motors that run in delta mode. To stop the slip you would have to lower the starting RPM. That can be done with a softstart module or a variable frequency drive(Overkill for this application)
I think solid thic plastics like acetal are very good construction materials and a lot of times i like them much more than wood because they are not prone to splitting, water, expanding or cracking over time. The only issue is that they are much less readily available in stores.
Yay, finally the metal lathe in action :D
A good example of why I sold my Prusa, that wobble on the lath of the printed down blue part means you probably also have one of those beds with around 0,5mm bow in it, which according to Egoprusa is okay due to the bed probe, but IMHO this (and a few other things) are unacceptable for its price class when you like to print mechanical parts.
That aside, it's quite interesting to see a 3D Print being turned down on a lathe, I've surfaced some on a CNC but turning on a lathe? Yeah, I think I gotta try that out once I get my Paulimot :D
You would do well to use more steel in your projects. That said,I am very impressed. Your engineering skills serve you well.
Looks like you used every tool in your workshop besides the bandsaw itself for this project 😋
kreatives Lagertool :-) muss man auch erst mal drauf kommen
When you moved the faceplate to the metal lathe you changed your grip and that's why it was so far off.
Hi Marius, great vid. Many of us never ever get it right first/fifth time . Nice to see a youtuber do the same. TFS, G :)
Woop woop, that's the sound of da pulleys!
Star delta will work if you lower the input voltage by 1\sqrt(3) from mains. You can order a soft starter for your motor. It should be healthier for the grid and motor
That router circle jig is pure genius.
Would a spring-loaded idler pulley running on the back side of the belt help with keeping constant tension. I've seen that on many vehicles which use a serpentine poly-v belt to drive multiple accessories off the motor crankshaft. My Rikon 10-325 bandsaw uses a drive belt like yours and belt tension is done with a idler pulley with a manual adjustment, no spring load.
Super cute!!
I think that bearing wore out very quickly because a single bearing like that can’t really handle the moment the two belt tensions exert on it due to their axial offsets.
I feel with the new bearing the same failure will only be a matter of time as the bending makes the inner race deflect with respect to the outer race and make the seals rub and wear down.
Ideally, you need to add another bearing on that shaft to properly constrain that wheel and reduce any bending moments the bearings have to take.
I would cap the exposed bearings with something lightweight, like a small plastic film!
Loved both videos. Great stuff
Marius, just found your channel, very informative, will take a look at your other videos
use your vfd to soft start the motor. D.O.L is always a breaker
I love the fact that you're trying to build all this but I just wonder if it would be easier to buy the pulley for the motor side.
Grazie, sempre molto istruttivo, bravo!!!
another excellent video, as always, greetings from Chile
Nice DIY saw! Hi from France 😉
HEY U GUY'z STILL Fighting
Neo-Capitalist Dog'z of Pariz Aye Bon Chance!!>:}
Fantastic problem solving!
Wenn du deinen Motor dauernd nur in Sternkonfiguration betreibst würde ein Schalter nichts mehr bringen. Eine weitere Lösungsmethode für dein Problem wäre ein vorgeschalteter Softstarter, welcher den Motor durch Anpassung der Frequenz, langsam beschleunigt. 🙂
This is great, but the jump up to VFD etc is a lot more cost. I would have been tempted to fix this mechanically, on the cheap. Or at least fix 80 or 90 % of it, probably won't match speeds exactly..
Possibly do it manually, with a small hand wheel you swing in to move things and get the wheels moving a little, so it isn't dead stop inertia. But this would work great with a small secondary motor, think of it as a starter/brake motor.
Small motor on the back side, that can teeter so it normally doesn't touch. Front side lever, you hold it up and press a button, presses the shaft against the band wheel and spins it up in a second or few. Once you turn the saw off, hold the lever up a few seconds without the power on button and it acts as a drag brake. Spring pulls the lever down so the motor shaft is away from the wheel normally.
With a little more work you could make it automatic. Flip the bandsaw main switch and it holds the start motor in for a few seconds, then lets it move away, power to the main motor and the start power goes off. Switch the saw off and the main power goes off, starter motor engages but with no power for 5 or 10 seconds to brake the saw.
Probably way way cheaper than any sort of VFD and still fairly simple.
Excellent! Love your videos
Wouldn't a cover plate, like the disc you had trouble removing keep dust out of the bearings? Positive retention could be achieved with large washers on some of the screws holding the belt pulley on.