Your exactly right Ray another way to get blisters in tube usually operator. Pump blisters happen just like you said it also happens when sucking air into pump eight full strokes with pump tube should be full older pump sometimes ten. If your getting air into pump it’s usually skip blisters one side of tape or real small blisters. Another one sprayed today sure miss my rig another week waiting for parts probably. Getting ready to start a monster house two hrs from house not sure why I’m doing this other than almost 45cts more per ft plus motel expenses. Hopefully hangers will knock it out in three days with no miss boxes. Finally using all mud on bead and new off angle coating tools. All because of your videos Ray my other finisher hated it until he realized coating bead was saving them big time and way less mud almost 40%. That in itself is a big factor quite the savings. Keep up the great videos. Got your last response on seeing you when I’m in Chicago I will hopefully after 2018 Christmas God willing.
Doc.. my man. I am very grateful for this! Yes my zook is less than a year old and the rest of this set is as well. All in excellent condition and they all produce spectacular results. Mudrunner is next. I do 95% commercial so mostly 10’ or 12’ verticals, and wearing stilts for 8 hours running inside corners with a 7” angle box can be a daunting task for 2 or 3 coats. So the mudrunner would alleviate a lot of the wear and tear of that process. But anyhow back to the task at hand. The dry spot I’m getting is consistent. Approximately 4-8 inches off the floor and 2-3 inches in length. The rest of every seam always has great mud application, it’s just that one spot. Truthfully I think it has something to do with when I advance the tape from joint to joint. Once I cut the tape at the top of the seam, I roll the last few inches out, remove the bazooka from the wall, move to my next seam, push the sleeve forward to advance the tape, place the head at the bottom of my seam and start up the wall. After the first foot it’s a thing of beauty. It’s just under that that is giving me headaches. I have combatted it by trying different things such as using the key while advancing the tape so the tab is wet and pushing forward once I start rolling but that is a sloppy mess and I hate it. The the most effective way I’ve found is to not advance the tape after finishing a seam, go to the bottom of the next seam, roll up the wall about 6 inches, then advance the tape, then reset at the bottom and go up the seam. The problem is you get a good sized splat on the floor EVERY time I do it that way... but, it solves the problem. We are currently taping so I could get some video of the problem and share it to you somehow if possible. Let me know. Thanks a lot.
Jim Britz The reason you are getting the dry spot in the first foot of your tape is because you are using the dog pin to move the chain wheel to advance the mud on to the tape , That pin that engages on to the chain wheel while turning it by hand means you are pushing the chain wheel to advance the mud onto the tape when priming the bazooka for first application of a tape , so when you start running the tape the pin now has to switch from pushing the chain wheel to being pulled by the chain wheel , this is what give you the air gaps , if you must prime the bazooka gun by hand , you will have better results if you turn the main wheel of the taper head that engages with the board surface a few times till the chain and the dog pin switch to being pulled by the chain rather than pushing the chain wheel , ( you can see this happen if you watch it while doing it ) then run the gun , you should reduce your air gap significantly
It took me years to work that one out myself lol as no one ever explained it to me ether , happy to help out , Another tip for diagnosing air spots is , If your taper is full to the max and leaves air gaps when you first run and dose not do it as bad as it gets lighter as the mud is used up (only half full ), then its usually the clicker tension pin that is worn out and the weight of the mud draws the main wheel backward before you touch the wall and start running. Oh..... Remember if your gun is used a lot and gets over a year old the teeth on the main wheel will ware down and the gun can draw in air when full of mud and heavy (also causing dry spot at beginning of tape), check there is no backward roll on your main wheel by trying to roll it backwards by hand, so always replace these side plates once a year at least , lots of replacement parts a cheap Chinese metal nowadays and ware out a lot faster , don't buy cheap parts as you will replace them twice as quick
I live in St. Charles. I’m gonna drive over there and drag you to the gym. If I don’t squat and do rows and lower back stuff, after three weeks my back is killing me.
Hi Doc. Great information about the bazooka! Love the T-shirt too! My wife tossed mine, said it had holes. "I know, but it was very comfortable!" lol. Keep Doing Great!
Hello I have a bazooka Tapetech and Un each new tape in the first sections of tape that do not have joint compound behind it Can i you help me to fix it
THE DRYWALL DOCTOR Thank you, I have the problem when I cut the tape and start another, and it is almost in the same place 7 cm after the start and it lasts about 7 cm more, and in the rest of the work it is fine
Mark Brass that seal is a piece of cake. If Ray doesn’t have video call tape tech will explain especially if you tell them your changing pumps. Might be a little tough if you’re not used to keeping real clean tool with a hook on it will pull it right out then clean real well with high pressure hot water use canola oil to slide new back it with something that’s not sharp believe I used long Allen wrench before not that I’m telling you this mine will probably shell out next week. Canola oil is best on all tape tools we used bazooka oil can’t stand the smell if you know what I mean. I believe canola is seal saving my opinion. My friend uses wd 40 or silicon spray but his seals don’t last more than two yrs. mine is 15 and still looks very ply able. I swear bye canola in a spritz bottle but they have this oil like nano diamonds in it name off the top of my head slips me but will try to find out. It is extremely expensive but it will last on parts even after washing them plus it works under water it’s a reg spray can that says it contains Nono diamonds. Canola in spray bottle is still my first choice for usage and smell especially in work truck or tight quarters. Good luck God bless.
Hello, I am Chinese do not understand English, but I insist on watching your video learning, I would like to ask you this is how much money to buy the bazooka. I always have bubbles and holes, how can I solve them?
Your exactly right Ray another way to get blisters in tube usually operator. Pump blisters happen just like you said it also happens when sucking air into pump eight full strokes with pump tube should be full older pump sometimes ten. If your getting air into pump it’s usually skip blisters one side of tape or real small blisters. Another one sprayed today sure miss my rig another week waiting for parts probably. Getting ready to start a monster house two hrs from house not sure why I’m doing this other than almost 45cts more per ft plus motel expenses. Hopefully hangers will knock it out in three days with no miss boxes. Finally using all mud on bead and new off angle coating tools. All because of your videos Ray my other finisher hated it until he realized coating bead was saving them big time and way less mud almost 40%. That in itself is a big factor quite the savings. Keep up the great videos. Got your last response on seeing you when I’m in Chicago I will hopefully after 2018 Christmas God willing.
Ray, I always enjoy the end of your videos when you say "if you really like this video share it ..." love it! Cheers
Doc.. my man. I am very grateful for this! Yes my zook is less than a year old and the rest of this set is as well. All in excellent condition and they all produce spectacular results. Mudrunner is next. I do 95% commercial so mostly 10’ or 12’ verticals, and wearing stilts for 8 hours running inside corners with a 7” angle box can be a daunting task for 2 or 3 coats. So the mudrunner would alleviate a lot of the wear and tear of that process. But anyhow back to the task at hand. The dry spot I’m getting is consistent. Approximately 4-8 inches off the floor and 2-3 inches in length. The rest of every seam always has great mud application, it’s just that one spot. Truthfully I think it has something to do with when I advance the tape from joint to joint. Once I cut the tape at the top of the seam, I roll the last few inches out, remove the bazooka from the wall, move to my next seam, push the sleeve forward to advance the tape, place the head at the bottom of my seam and start up the wall. After the first foot it’s a thing of beauty. It’s just under that that is giving me headaches. I have combatted it by trying different things such as using the key while advancing the tape so the tab is wet and pushing forward once I start rolling but that is a sloppy mess and I hate it. The the most effective way I’ve found is to not advance the tape after finishing a seam, go to the bottom of the next seam, roll up the wall about 6 inches, then advance the tape, then reset at the bottom and go up the seam. The problem is you get a good sized splat on the floor EVERY time I do it that way... but, it solves the problem. We are currently taping so I could get some video of the problem and share it to you somehow if possible. Let me know. Thanks a lot.
The Drywall Doctor will do. I’ll get some video of the issue on Monday. Thanks
Jim Britz
The reason you are getting the dry spot in the first foot of your tape is because you are using the dog pin to
move the chain wheel to advance the mud on to the tape , That pin that engages on to the chain wheel while turning it by hand means you are pushing the chain wheel to advance the mud onto the tape when priming the bazooka for first application of a tape , so when you start running the tape the pin now has to switch from pushing the chain wheel to being pulled by the chain wheel , this is what give you the air gaps , if you must prime the bazooka gun by hand , you will have better results if you turn the main wheel of the taper head that engages with the board surface a few times till the chain and the dog pin switch to being pulled by the chain rather than pushing the chain wheel , ( you can see this happen if you watch it while doing it ) then run the gun , you should reduce your air gap significantly
jaimie mc donald thanks a lot I will definitely pay attention to this the next time I use the taper. I’ll let you know if it fixes my issue.
It took me years to work that one out myself lol as no one ever explained it to me ether , happy to help out , Another tip for diagnosing air spots is , If your taper is full to the max and leaves air gaps when you first run and dose not do it as bad as it gets lighter as the mud is used up (only half full ), then its usually the clicker tension pin that is worn out and the weight of the mud draws the main wheel backward before you touch the wall and start running.
Oh..... Remember if your gun is used a lot and gets over a year old the teeth on the main wheel will ware down and the gun can draw in air when full of mud and heavy (also causing dry spot at beginning of tape), check there is no backward roll on your main wheel by trying to roll it backwards by hand, so always replace these side plates once a year at least , lots of replacement parts a cheap Chinese metal nowadays and ware out a lot faster , don't buy cheap parts as you will replace them twice as quick
IMO it sounds like it's because you are advancing the tape dry. When you cut, roll the last few inches while advancing.
I live in St. Charles. I’m gonna drive over there and drag you to the gym. If I don’t squat and do rows and lower back stuff, after three weeks my back is killing me.
I need all the help I can get LOL that just made my day
One thing I learned is that running a bazooka with plus 3 will create issues. A mistake I had to make along the way I guess..
Hi Doc. Great information about the bazooka! Love the T-shirt too! My wife tossed mine, said it had holes. "I know, but it was very comfortable!" lol. Keep Doing Great!
Great video I'm having trouble with pores on my smooth walls how could I fix them or prevent them
Nan I had some nice jea mb s that had some tears but were comfortable..they disappeared one day. My wife trashed them
Hello
I have a bazooka Tapetech and
Un each new tape in the first sections of tape that do not have joint compound behind it
Can i you help me to fix it
It's very hard to know what the problem is unless I have the Bazooka in my hands
THE DRYWALL DOCTOR
Thank you, I have the problem when I cut the tape and start another, and it is almost in the same place 7 cm after the start and it lasts about 7 cm more, and in the rest of the work it is fine
I can sell you a bazooka insurance 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 always enjoy watching you
I'm getting bubbles after I smooth an area over with compound.
What can I do....Thank you
That's my next video
I use fiber fuse
thanks sooo much for the tip about the pump, and not leaving the handle down...
gues ill be replacing my seal now:-/
best reg.
Micah
Hey I have a lot of tools that do that too !! They keep hiding from me !!!
So you can coat tape same day after putting it on?
Sure can as long as the tape is set up enough.
You should try massage therapy for your back. It works wonders! Thanks for your videos
Do you have a video to show repairing that seal?
Mark Brass that seal is a piece of cake. If Ray doesn’t have video call tape tech will explain especially if you tell them your changing pumps. Might be a little tough if you’re not used to keeping real clean tool with a hook on it will pull it right out then clean real well with high pressure hot water use canola oil to slide new back it with something that’s not sharp believe I used long Allen wrench before not that I’m telling you this mine will probably shell out next week. Canola oil is best on all tape tools we used bazooka oil can’t stand the smell if you know what I mean. I believe canola is seal saving my opinion. My friend uses wd 40 or silicon spray but his seals don’t last more than two yrs. mine is 15 and still looks very ply able. I swear bye canola in a spritz bottle but they have this oil like nano diamonds in it name off the top of my head slips me but will try to find out. It is extremely expensive but it will last on parts even after washing them plus it works under water it’s a reg spray can that says it contains Nono diamonds. Canola in spray bottle is still my first choice for usage and smell especially in work truck or tight quarters. Good luck God bless.
Thx for all the videos sr help me a lot
How much money do you buy on your hands?
Hello, I am Chinese do not understand English, but I insist on watching your video learning, I would like to ask you this is how much money to buy the bazooka. I always have bubbles and holes, how can I solve them?
@@binbinliu900 1700 usd
Professional sir.
Please come fix my home you're the best! NC I will pay
👍👍