Was half hoping to see footage from the fast wrench tournament from years ago - super fast tutorial! 😂 Was also wondering if i-beam was going to get a mention but guess it is a sign that it truly may not have gotten much adoption
A potential problem with locating the seat with regard to its fore-aft position by measuring from the FRONT of the saddle to a fixed reference point at the front of the bike is if your new saddle has a different length than your old one. Such as when going from a long nose to short nose saddle. You don't sit on the front tip of the saddle. You sit on the wide section in the back of the saddle. So I believe it's best to locate the area on the old saddle where you actually sit, measure the fore-aft distance to that location, then position where you sit on the new saddle at the same fore-aft distance. No disrespect to our man Calvin intended.
instructions are clearly wrong. Even leveling instruction is vague and could be misleading, it does not have much information. You should start leveling from the straight part of it (with rear end raised if it is raised by design) and adjust from that, otherwise the nose will point upwards and be a problem for the perineum area.
@@niluss6 Yes. I didn't want to get into a tit for tat with @parktool despite being disappointed in their defensive response to my original comment. The fact is, some viewers are clearly going to view this video as a complete way to switch seats and because of that could end up with the seat position quite off. If their instructions were just a rough way to install a new seat, they should have made that abundantly clear. They didn't.
I'm having difficulty removing my Essax Shark bicycle saddle. Not from the bicycle but... from my lycra. Does Park make a removal tool for the Shark saddle? Maybe some kind of skin-safe nylon prybar?
I have a seatpost with a single horizontal bolt. It's not ideal for wheelies, cause it won't hold the saddle properly. I already torqued the bolt down with the max. force, how can I fix this issue?
Distances to the nose tip are irrelevant. It's the distance from the handlebars to where your sit bones go which needs to be maintained when you change saddle. There is no fixed saddle design distance between nose tip and sit bone pads.
Thanks! I wondered why my seatpost hurt so much. After I installed a saddle the pain stopped!
A very good and detailed explanation
Was half hoping to see footage from the fast wrench tournament from years ago - super fast tutorial! 😂
Was also wondering if i-beam was going to get a mention but guess it is a sign that it truly may not have gotten much adoption
Thank you very much.
@2:47 ‘take a selfie with your seat post’ 😂😂😂
Calvin is the best, do you guys sell posters of him?
Why tho?
He's Uber Hip to bike repair, always watch these first 😮😂
@@Paulklampeeps cause I'm in love
You left out my old favorite, the American Classic. Still have one on one of my bikes.
Thank you.
A potential problem with locating the seat with regard to its fore-aft position by measuring from the FRONT of the saddle to a fixed reference point at the front of the bike is if your new saddle has a different length than your old one. Such as when going from a long nose to short nose saddle. You don't sit on the front tip of the saddle. You sit on the wide section in the back of the saddle. So I believe it's best to locate the area on the old saddle where you actually sit, measure the fore-aft distance to that location, then position where you sit on the new saddle at the same fore-aft distance. No disrespect to our man Calvin intended.
These are not intended as "position tuning". It provides a place to start, that is all. Changes must be made by the user.
@@parktool Would it make more sense to measure to the widest part of the seat? …the closest positioning to where your sit bones were/will be?
instructions are clearly wrong.
Even leveling instruction is vague and could be misleading, it does not have much information. You should start leveling from the straight part of it (with rear end raised if it is raised by design) and adjust from that, otherwise the nose will point upwards and be a problem for the perineum area.
@@niluss6 Yes. I didn't want to get into a tit for tat with @parktool despite being disappointed in their defensive response to my original comment. The fact is, some viewers are clearly going to view this video as a complete way to switch seats and because of that could end up with the seat position quite off. If their instructions were just a rough way to install a new seat, they should have made that abundantly clear. They didn't.
I'm having difficulty removing my Essax Shark bicycle saddle. Not from the bicycle but... from my lycra.
Does Park make a removal tool for the Shark saddle? Maybe some kind of skin-safe nylon prybar?
How to change saddle on giant tcr with d seat post and one bolt
I would measure the distance from stem to where I sit on the saddle, not the tip.
how to fit the saddle myself without going to get a fitting? ive heard of the .883 rule
I have a seatpost with a single horizontal bolt. It's not ideal for wheelies, cause it won't hold the saddle properly. I already torqued the bolt down with the max. force, how can I fix this issue?
If it is moving from the angle you torqued it to, you may find that a friction paste like our SAC-2 to help increase friction and resolve your issue.
@@parktool thanks, I'm gonna try that
whats that app you're using on your phone?
Measure app on iPhone. Angle measurement is the second tab in the navigation bar on the bottom of the app.
👌👍
Did anyone else notice that in 2:32 there is -2° tilt as a reference but new saddle in 4:35 have +2°? :D
Distances to the nose tip are irrelevant. It's the distance from the handlebars to where your sit bones go which needs to be maintained when you change saddle. There is no fixed saddle design distance between nose tip and sit bone pads.
Take a selfie 😂
Why is it called a saddle when you call the post a seat post?Should it be called a saddle post instead?
Yes it should be a saddle post, but, no one does. Logic in naming has not stopped bike mechanics yet.
I have not seen a on integrated saddle clamp in years.
Saddle replacement is one of the worst, most fiddley jobs in cycling.
1st
worst