Tell me you know nothing about filing nut slots without saying you know nothing about filing nut slots. and fyi, it went from .036" to .021" on string 7, and .034 to .021 on string 6Of course you can spot that with the naked eye though. So glad I have people like you to keep me in check. Have a good day.
@@IndependenceGuitar I’ve worked as a luthier for over 20 years and I don’t see any difference at all either. You even comment that you need to do it again because perhaps you notice that you didn’t remove anything.
@@gcanada305 lmao sure bro. mr master luthier. themn you would know that you sand a pre fab TUSQ nut from the bottom with sand paper. this was for demo purposes. I even did a video right after this that shows the proper way with a pre-fab. i didnt say i need to do it again, i said it felt a lot better. youre a master luthier, but you "dont see any difference"? lmao, youre talking thousandths of an inch. gtfo. master luthier my ass... what a joke. No, you're probab;ly just OP under a different account. I am an actual tech, and I know many luthiers. none of them would scream about how they cant see a few thousanths of an inch with the naked eye on an overhead camera angle. thats why luthiers use feeler gauges, calipers, micrometers etc...kick rocks.
The word “hack” is so overused but I gotta say, for those of us who can’t consider a $100 or $400 set of nut files, this is an amazing hack. Thank you for sharing it!
WARNING!: There are many companies that makes versions of these torch tip cleaners that are made of a soft pewter metal. These will dull fast and get you nowhere! There is a link in the DESCRIPTION to some stainless steel ones that will do you just fine. Also, don’t be afraid to adjust your truss rod, I only warned against it because I don’t want someone that doesn’t know what they are doing to crank on it like crazy and warp their neck. Feel free to ask any questions, this was one of the first videos i made, so obviously it’s not the best or the most thorough. The point is that this can be done yourself instead of paying a guitar store $80 for an adjustment… 🤷♂️
Just what I needed to know! I had feeler gauges but never thought about that tip cleaner in my tool box. I was working on an old Japan Yamaha I bought for twenty bucks at a yard sale after convincing them that the neck needed resetting, Yes, I sawed the heel from the bottom all the way up to the truss rod and drilled a hole all the way through for a bolt to pull back together the heel with some glue and after that abortion a new bridge and string pegs and the only saddle i had was a brass one for electric, after sizing and filing for two hours the old 50 something relic played like a new one with great action, after many truss rod adjustments. I love to bring something useless back alive again and hear it sing again. and thanks to your video, I did it tonight. forty miles to the nearest parts store and you have to have a parts drawer and improvise. Thanks for the help.
torch tip cleaners work great.Ive used them for years. just make sure to hang on to both ends of the wire when filing to keep them from flexing and bending. slow and steady wins the race.
No problem. I appreciate it. We live in a pretty cool era being able took look stuff up. So much stuff I had to learn the hard way before TH-cam and google, glad I can save people some hassle, or forking more money over to certain “centers” for overpriced repairs 😆.
Dude seriously this is a great video, I would for sure share it on a couple of those guitar pages on Facebook. This was very useful as I was fixing a nut the other day and your video popped up, awesome job bro awesome. ⚡⚡⚡
@@IndependenceGuitar its is a great video, I hear ya, work can dominate. Plan ahead though. I'll take a Sunday and film 2 or 3 videos and set them up for schedule release.
I used a thin piece of sand paper folded and went thru all six nut groves until I got it where I wanted it then took a pencil and used paper to get graphite from pencil and put some in each nut groove stays tuned and good playability
@@GeorgeTesta-l9q no problem! Just a couple tips that, now looking back, I didn’t make very clear in the video; If you are using a pre fabricated/slotted TUSQ nut, it’s better to sand from the bottom with sand paper to get it to the correct height before trying to file the slots. And if you are going to use torch tip cleaners to file the slots, just be aware it’s a slow tedious process. They work much better on bone nuts than TUSQ ones. It also helps if you get good quality stainless steel torch tip cleaners vs the cheap pewter/nickel ones. In short, I need to make a part 2 to this video because there is a few important caveats I left out because I kinda suck at making videos lol. Oh, and make sure you go to the graphtech website to get the part number for the correct nut that fits your radius, or at least gets you close to the correct radius.
Yep, they work pretty well. If you ever use the torch tip cleaners, make sure they are stainless or iron. They sell tons of pewter ones online that dull really quick, and are pretty useless. I didn’t realize that was a thing when I made this.
It depends on which tip cleaners you get. I know exactly what you’re talking about because I’ve used ones before that were terrible. If you get a legitimate set, they work much better than strings and don’t cost more than $5-$10. Usually, getting them in store vs on the internet is the better way to go so you can see the quality of metal. Many of the ones on the internet are made from a terrible pewter metal and dull pretty quick. The good thing is that a real set doesn’t cost any more than the crap ones.
No problem, glad it helped! Just a tip tho, if you have quite a bit to file, it’s a bit faster and easier if you take the nut off completely and sand it from the bottom with sandpaper first. Even pressure while doing it. Then do the last little bit with whatever your file or makeshift file. Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll try to walk you through it.
Thanks for the video! I followed your instructions and was able to slot the nut on my new Yamaha FS800! I'm done giving my guitars to boomer guitar techs!
Thanks! If you ever buy those in the future, make sure they are the actual aluminum or stainless ones. Tons of places sell them on the internet as “guitar nut files”, and many are made out of pewter or some really soft metal. They dull really fast and take forever. Didn’t think about that when I made this.
Ok cool. Yeah i use 8’s on my 7 string that has a Floyd because it’s a 26.5”. Makes it feel more like a 25.5” scale. Just a tip, you’d be totally fine using a 9 gauge file even with an 8g string. The feeler gauge method isn’t the best, but it’ll definitely work. Just make some notches on the end and make sure you file toward the tuning peg when you do it. Go slow and check it often so you don’t over do it. Let me know how it turns out!
@@IndependenceGuitar Hi again! Thanks for the reply. I didn't try the feeler gauge hack. After reading some more info I learned that it should work with the .10 file set I have so I went with that and it worked just fine. Neat trick anyhow.
@@MatteMike2345 yeah, absolutely. Most nuts are actually filed out with a 11g-13g anyway. It’s ok if the slot is a little too big. The string will settle in after you play a bit. Glad you figured it out!
A luthier once told me, that unless youre using crazy amount of force, nothing you do with the truss rod can damage anything that hasn't already been damaged. So it's not as serious as people think. Adjust your truss rods as you please, but remember: Truss rod adjustment is NOT for action adjustment!
That’s the truth. So many people are afraid of it, or they crank it really bad in one direction and don’t know how to get it back to proper relief. So I usually just tell people if they’re not sure, just take it to a tech. It just breaks my heart seeing people pay $100+ for something that is so easy to do and would only take 30-60 minutes. The only caveat to the truss rod thing is that I have seen and had to fix issues like frets starting to sprout because they cranked it too far into a back bow, and a some other issues, but that is usually relegated to cheaper guitars. But yeah, assuming the neck and fretboard are in good shape, people shouldn’t be afraid to mess with it.
Is that a Jackson 7 string? I just got a Jackson 7 string and the strings are a mile and a half high at the nut just like your are. They are so high all the notes go sharp up to the 5-6 fret. They have got to come down. Thanks for the info on this. I will try the welder tip cleaners. I can't pay $100 for a set of files.
Yeah, it’s a Jackson js22-7 dinky. The original nut was actually ok on mine, but I replaced it with a graphtech TUSQ nut, which i would absolutely recommend as they’re only $10-$15, and so worth it when it comes to tuning stability and better sustain. But yeah, welding torch tip cleaners work really well. Just one caveat, get the torch tip cleaners from a reputable hardware dealer/store. There are some sights that sell those torch tip cleaners as “guitar nut files” and/or just make them from some really cheap pewter or other soft metal, and they are garbage. Anyway, take it slow, check the height often so you don’t overdo it. If you notice, it took me like 4 times filing and measuring to get it right. Don’t be surprised if it’s kind of a tedious process, it’s sort of the trade off of not having those nice $180 file sets 😆.
Yeah, something I didn’t really think about when making the video, was that there are tons of places that sell those where the metal is made of pewter, and they dull really fast, and yeah, it will take a while. I need to link where I got mine from. They work better because they’re made of a harder metal. But, on the other hand, i guess having take forever isn’t all bad. Less of a chance of going too far. 🤷♂️ lol.
@@IndependenceGuitar LOL I take your point, indeed it almost filed the nut by 0.0001 per mm so for every 0.1 mm i need to make, I gotta scrape like hundres of filing movement back and forth IYKWIM. I don't mind this, I just wanna complain "why so long?!?!" lol
Those tip-cleaner / files come out of the holder and off the spindle. Makes the filing a lot easier and more accurate if you work with a single file at a time.
Really, I didn’t actually look to see if they did that. Even when I used them when I was welding, I always just used them in the casing. Going to check that out, thanks. Would make it a bit easier.
It sounds like the problem was likely less with the nut and more of how you setup the saddle height and radius of your new bridge. What I usually do with Tusq nuts is sand down the bottom of them until the bottom of the low E string is approximately .010” from the top of the 1st fret. The remainder of the strings should also have that .010 gap if you sanded the bottom of the nut evenly since TUSQ does a very good job of pre-slotting them correctly. Only time I had to file the nut was to widen the slot for the thicker gauge strings that I use on my Jazzmaster.
It was the nut. It was sanded from the bottom. I just used this to show how to file the nut down to proper height with any nut including the graphtech.
You can actually use the string itself to clean out the rough cut left by the torch tip cleaner; acoustic nuts usually are more involved, but they don't leave a lot of extra material on most pre slotted electric nuts. When determining height, there are standard recommendations, but I've found that leaving as much height as you can comfortably fret is going to provide better string rotation.I've seen many cases where the slots are too low, as well as too high.Where the bridge and truss are easily changed,( I highly recommend having an inexpensive guitar to learn how to adjust the truss, - many need constant tweaks, and it's good to know) the nut remains consistent.Take your time and get it right,- over time, if that's what it takes. Peace.
All good advice. This particular nut was a precut graph tech, and had almost a full millimeter of clearance while holding down the 3rd fret. I had battled with the truss rod and action for a while before I finally decided there was no other way around it than to actually file the nut. Normally when determining the height on a blank or precut, it’s easiest just to use a carpenters pencil to lay flat on the frets, and draw a lower limit right on the face of the nut, but since I had feeler gauges on hand, but no carpenter pencils, I went with route B. As far as the truss rod goes, I have no issue adjusting them. I just know tons of people that are deathly afraid to, and i get customers fairly often that have an improperly installed truss. The last one warped his neck down at the 3/4th fret toward the low side. So I just tell people if they don’t know what they’re doing, and they’re afraid, take it to a pro and see if they’ll let you watch them do it. I should have included using the string to smooth it out, i just didn’t think about it since it’s not needed on the graph techs. The graphite files out smooth with just the tip cleaners. Anyway, thanks man, i appreciate the input. This was one of my first when I was still pretty camera shy. I’ve been doing tech work for over 8 years and just got my apprenticeship as a luthier, but a lot of stuff seems to go out the window once the camera is on lol. I’m getting a little better every time.
I actually got mine from a hardware store. Something I didn’t realize when I made this video is that they sell “torch tip cleaners” as “guitar nut files” online, but I wouldn’t recommend using them. The ones I have are made of stainless steel, but many of these sets are made of some cheap pewter metal that won’t work that well. I’ve actually contemplated taking this video down a couple times because I know people will buy the bad ones and be frustrated like “why isn’t this working?!”. I actually want to make a follow up video to this one because I wanted to give this other set of “precision needle files” a try. They’re only $5 and look like they would work even better than the torch tip cleaners. Either way, if you go with the torch tip cleaners which you can get at a hardware store or online, try to get the steel ones. The pewter ones will dull fast and make it a frustrating task. You can also sand the nut from the bottom with sand paper if it’s a height issue and not a slot issue. Anyway, here is the link to the other files i wanted to try. Hope this helps! 👍 www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html?campaignid=12169617963&adsetid=116466541149&product=4614&store=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6drbm--1-gIVdBh9Ch1VOgKGEAQYBSABEgLaBPD_BwE
@@IndependenceGuitar Hi man! Hope you're well. Just came to ask if you got a chance to give the 'precision needles' a try, and how you found them. Wishing you the best in life!
This was a fantastic video, thank you. I'm headed to the store this afternoon. Also, the juxtaposition of the unplugged feel test at the end with the background music was really funny. Now I want to know what kind of music you make!
Thanks! That’s fair enough! I had been working on learning a lot of different stuff, like I just posted a Steve Vai cover this morning. Now that I got that out of my system, I just started to record a few of my own. Should be up in the next week or two.
@@IndependenceGuitar that's awesome! I checked out some of your other videos after I commented. The Chimiara cover was unreal! I am pretty eclectic in my tastes, too. Thanks again for the info!
@@IndependenceGuitar yeah I'll not be going that route, I just thought it was funny that I had the thought minutes before finding your video. I'm extremely unhappy with all of the pre-cut aftermarket options so I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy the proper tools so I can make my own nuts from bone blanks
Really? Have you tried the graphtech tusq XL? It’ll run you about 1/5 the price, and perform 2x better. They’re an organic polymer that is graphite and Teflon infused. You don’t have to file any nut slots or anything. You just take a piece of sand paper and sand the nut from the bottom until it’s at the correct height. I love them, i put them on all my guitars except for Floyd rose obviously. Anyway, try one if you haven’t.
I've got two sets of those torch tip cleaners, a set like those in the blue cover and the same files on a ring and I tried them last night on a Squier Classic Vibe Stratocaster nut and they didn't do anything! They're not course enough and maybe work on cheap plastic but this nut was supposed to be bone and those files couldn't do anything. I'm thinking maybe wrapping sand paper around a feeler gauge would work better.
Doesn’t surprise me actually. Some of the companies that make them are total crap. And if they’ve been used before, they dull really easy. The set I have is an actual welders set. They’re steel. I’ve been seeing a lot of crap, even ones sold as “guitar nut files”, that are made of a pewter like material. Tbh, I’ve been thinking about just taking this video down because I don’t want people to buy those. Most places that sell them don’t have a way to differentiate them either. I would recommend just using your guitar string and running it back and forth. Use the G string for the last B and E slot. OR, what be might be an even easier solution is just to buy a graphtech tusq nut for $15 or less. Then you can just sand it down from the bottom because they already come preslotted.
Pretty much anywhere that sells auto parts. O’reily’s, Autozone, Walmart… etc. or online at Harbor freight, Amazon… They cost between 5-15 dollars. Here is a set for around $5, or search around and find a set you like better. www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-pc-63665.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789286758&product=63665&store=370&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7uqdjv6V9gIVHv3jBx1IWQ1fEAQYAyABEgIoevD_BwE
Yikes man, i wouldn’t use them. I mean, i would have to see the style of nut to really give any advice on how to file it, but this would definitely not be a viable method on a titanium nut. They have special files made for filing titanium that are pretty expensive. Plus depending on which one you have, i wouldn’t want to mess it up aesthetically as some are really expensive (others aren’t, maybe $15). Without buying the special files, if I had a titanium nut i really needed to file down, the first thing I would probably try is getting a set of Ernie ball cobalt wound strings, and using the appropriate sized string to try and file down the slot. Cobalt is a very hard and used to drill and cut steel, so i might try that to see if it works, but no guarantees. Secondly, if that didn’t work, I would try a Dremel with maybe a cobalt or diamond bit, but that’s also something you have to be very gingerly with. Anyway, is it an after market nut, or did it come with the guitar? What style of guitar, and what style nut? If i knew more about what i was working with, could maybe give better advice. But definitely hesitant to tell someone to take a dremel to their nut. I don’t want you to be in a worse spot than you are in now.
@@IndependenceGuitar Aw man thats quite a lot. I like the colbat string idea thought that was funny and creative. So the most info i can give you is: this is a $25 Guyker Titanium Adjustable Nut from Amazon, so not much to lose here, Itll be set on a neck with a tilted headstock like a Gibson Headstock. Tuning machines are 6 in line. The guitar here is actually one im currently building with my friend. Anyways thats all the info I have to share at the moment. My friend does have a dremel so I might try that out. Thanks for the quick response and tips man.
Ah, I see. So what you’re really concerned about is filing an angle in the nut to compensate for the severe headstock slant. Since it’s a build, I imagine you haven’t actually played it yet. I wouldn’t worry about it yet, and just cross that bridge when you get to it. I don’t think you’ll have any issue with it even with the headstock slant. If anything, you may have a little trouble with the high and low E strings with the outward bend the string has to do, but in all honesty, I really doubt you will have a problem. As long as you have the nut set right, it should work just fine the way it is even without filing the nut down to a slant. Try it as is first and see if it works ok, you might end up not having to file at all.
@@IndependenceGuitar hmm, true, thanks again for the ideas. When were at the stage of test fitting all the parts before painting, Ill string it up to see how the nut works. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video- question: Did you choose the gauge of file you used based on the gauge of string you would be using there, or do you use a certain set gauge of file for each particular slot? I want to lower my standard low E string slot a little bit- wondering which gauge file I should use to do it. I will have a 42 gauge E string in there most of the time (from a standard set of Slinky 9's)
I was using the files that were closest (slightly bigger) than the gauge of string I planned to put there. With an E string, I generally would use a 52g file. Not to fit a 52 gauge string, but to make room for a 42-46 to lay down and have enough room as to not get hung up anywhere on the nut. The nut is not one of those things that has to be filed to a specific string size. As long as the nut is not cut too deep, too shallow, or not wide enough for the string, you won’t have any issue. So rule of thumb, just file it out to a gauge that is larger than the string you are using. The real trick is getting the depth right. Too high, and it will mess up your action and intonation, to low, and it will buzz out.
Here is a link to some good ones. Which ever ones you buy, make sure they are stainless steel. There are a ton of companies out there that sell these, especially the ones that are labeled “guitar nut files“ that are made out of a soft pewter metal. Those will dull really fast, and you will pretty much get nowhere. I actually didn’t realize that they made shitty ones like that when I made this video, otherwise I would’ve warned against it. But yeah, just make sure they are stainless steel. m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200659229_200659229?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&Google_LIA&Welding%20%3E%20Gas%20Welding%20%2B%20Cutting%20Apparatus%20%3E%20Strikers%20%2B%20Tip%20Cleaners&Hobart&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpeWLh9yG9gIVEh-tBh0g4wWOEAQYAiABEgI-dvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
No problem. Glad i could help. One tip I forgot to mention in the video, is an easy way to make sure you don’t go to far while filing, is using a carpenters pencil to lay on the frets and make a line on the front face of the nut. If you use to weld, I’m sure you can figure out how to use a carpenters pencil lol. I should make a video on that, because I’m sure not everyone knows how to use feeler gauges.
Haha. No, but not too far off. I’m on the other side of the Mississippi. “Independence” Guitar is kind of a long story. I should explain it in my next video because I’m sure it’s something that a lot of us go through. The short version is that I was frustrated with my band, really wanted to quit and find another one, but these guys are like family to me. So instead, I decided to make the channel so that I could teach/learn things without having to rely on anyone else. Something that is totally independent... hence the name lol.
@@IndependenceGuitar Ah right on, I was wondering if I needed to make a trip to a guitar store I wasn't aware existed haha. I definitely know how that goes, pretty much the same reason I started my channel. Thanks for the tips, now off to salvage this Tusq nut!
That sucks. Pretty common though. Many times they don’t cut the nut fat enough out of factory because they’d rather have it too high than low. Just make sure you measure when you file so you don’t go too low. And if you mess up, Graphtech sells those TUSQ ones for about $10-$15 bucks. Anyway, let me know how it works out!
@@IndependenceGuitar just tried your hack and it worked well! Problem is now when I really want to dig into a bend they can still pop out. Do you think I should go wider or deeper in my slots? Thanks
@@brendanjames8818 if they are popping out, yes, absolutely. You just want to make sure that you don’t go too deep or your strings will start buzzing out. I know you probably have a good idea of what string gauges you should be using for your tuning, but going to say it anyway just in case. Make sure that your strings are not popping out because there is just not enough tension (basically because you are using way too thing a gauge for the tuning). But assuming you are in standard tuning and using something like 9-42, you should be good there. Just use feeler gauges to measure the clearance on the 1st fret while holding down the third one on each string, and file it down as low as you need. Just watch how I do it in the video. At least the strings aren’t popping out anymore how they were. Just go a bit deeper and it should solve the problem even when you bend. If all else fails, buy a graphtech tusq nut, they’re only $10-$15, and file that down to your preference.
@@IndependenceGuitar yeah im considering the graphtech, for now its fine and worked great. One of my strings is kinda buzzing out when I pick it to hard but think it has to do with my truss rod. Using 10-52 in drop b / c# standard. I think ill keep playing around with it, this is a great fix but still it would be very hard to go to deep considering the amount of filing you would have to do with these things LOL
@@brendanjames8818 oh yeah, definitely make sure your truss rod is straight before you start filing any further. Also, i would try 11-52 in drop B, that’ll definitely give you the extra tension to help it from popping out, and it still won’t be too stiff.
Great video. I see where many people measure the 1st fret to bottom of the string distance with the open string, and others do it with the string fretted on the 3rd fret like you did and I like that method the best. So did you set all 6 strings to 0.012" ? I've seen some of the other videos that measure with open strings and they recommend something like 0.025" on the low E and progressively less as they get to the high E (0.011"). Them having progressively lower measurements just due to the fact that they are doing it with open strings, or is it just persona preference? Thanks!
I definitely prefer to do it from holding down the third fret vs open strings because it closes the distance and allows you to use thinner feeler gauges (which tend to be the less expensive ones lol). But no, I don’t do them entirely uniform. You can tend to get away with a slightly lower clearance on the thinner strings if you’re careful, and the lower you can get them on the nut, the less your pitch will bend while fretting the note. That and it just makes it easier to play overall the lower you can get the action. Many people (including myself) always try to solve the action issues from the bridge end, and turns out many times it’s from the nut end 🤷♂️.
@@IndependenceGuitar Thanks. I got a new Ibanez Mikro guitar for my daughter and the setup was terrible. The truss rod was way too tight so there was a back bow. Then to keep the strings from buzzing they had the saddles adjusted way high at the bridge. But even after fixing those things, the nut slots are so high that it isn't possible to play in the first few positions without being out of tune. Lowering the strings at the nut will be my next step.
@@shanefrank3281 well at least that’s a proper first guitar vs a first act or something 😆. I’m surprised ibanez let it come out of factory like that. Once you got it setup right, that thing should rip.
Not sure where you get that measurement from, but yes 10g is in fact 0.010”. I believe you’re confusing body jewelry gauge with what a gauge measurement is. Gauge directly refers to the relationship in thousandths of an inch, and usually has a tolerance limit (i.e. tolerance = +/- 0.00009”). The gauge and tolerance are usually measured with micrometers. This refers to how much thicker or thinner a piece of material (or string) can be before that producer would no longer consider it “in tolerance”. It’s an easy mistake to make. I didn’t learn that stuff until I started working with steel cutting machines. And to this day, I am not 100% sure why body jewelry is gauged differently. I’ve probably googled it 20 times in the last 10 years and can’t seem to find a clear answer why. If you know, I would love to hear it! Edit: here is an article on how string gauge is measured. This should clear up any confusion you have with what gauge means. blog.andertons.co.uk/learn/best-guitar-string-gauge
@IndependenceGuitar . A 10 gauge AWG wire(steel or copper) is 0.1019 inches, a 10 gauge sheet of steel is 0.135 inches, and a 10 gauge shotgun bore is 0.775 inches. Just saying, gauge does not mean actual measurement. It's wrong to call a 0.010 inch diameter string(wire), 10 gauge. Tolorance is irrelevant to my point, and no, 10g is not 10 mil. AWG is the standard for measuring wire thickness, so you not knowing where I got that surprises me.
@@E-BikingAdventures 🤦♂️ bro, stop it. 🛑 you’re wrong, it’s ok. Learn and move on, or dislike the video and call me names for correcting you, and move on. Here is the literal glossary definition of gauge. It would have taken you 5 seconds, but I went ahead and did the work for you. www.labelplanet.co.uk/glossary/gauge/#:~:text=A%20standard%20unit%20of%20measure,of%20an%20inch%20(0.00001). Edit: and again, your gun comparison, those are not units of measurement to themselves. In 12g, gauge is used in its verb term to “to gauge something”. It’s called a 12g because you could make 12 equal diameter balls out of 1 pound of lead. Straight dunning Krueger effect… fuck!
Agreed. But for some reason, a lot of people are. So instead of arguing with them about it, “take it to a professional.” But I’ll tell you I’ve seen a lot of first timers that didn’t know what they were doing go ahead and crank their neck until it it warped. I get more business from that than you’d think lol.
@@IndependenceGuitar well if your getting apes cranking on a truss rod like that business will be good buddy,seriously it tells you OK enuf is enuf if u have to clamp the guitar between Yr legs for more leverage I'd say use gone too far,I'm only a bedroom player but truss rod action and nut slots,frett polishing etc aren't rocket science go steady and its not difficult
@@paulslack4303 again, I agree. Most of the time it’s where it’s not installed correctly. Most of the time in less expensive guitars, but with more expensive ones as well. For example the last one i did was on a JS22 where the kid swears he only did 1 1/2 turns and instead of creating a bow, it twisted the neck down by the 3rd and 4th fret toward the low side and warped it. It wasn’t even because he was trying to fix an issue, it was because some TH-cam video told him that SRV played with a significant concave bow. 🤷♂️ It happens.
No tips for the small strings? I'm sorry because you seem proud of this video but it was not very helpful. The way too long dull and muffled voice preamble was unwatchable as well. Try again. You seem to have some basic knowledge.
How do I seem proud of this video exactly? I tend to find people talk shit like yourself are pretentious, suffer from massive Dunning Krueger effects, and think they know everything because they spend all their time in the TH-cam guitarist echo chamber regurgitating the same fallacies, but actually don’t know shit. Not sure why it matters so much that you had to pour out your poisonous garbage to me, you could have just clicked a different video. But the fact that you were here watching it already tells me that you don’t know shit. The difference between you and everyone else is that is that everyone else knows it, but you’re content on smelling your own farts. Have a great day.
@@FiddleSticks800 I appreciate it man. I’m no TH-camr, I don’t have fancy video equipment or expensive video editing software. Was just fixing an issue with one of my guitars and figured I’d share the process for anyone who needed to see it. And if people have questions, or if I left something out, I’ll try to help anyone with anything. I get sick of all the venomous crap on here sometimes.
lol after the filing, the string was at identical height as it was before the filing. You took nothing off at all.
Tell me you know nothing about filing nut slots without saying you know nothing about filing nut slots. and fyi, it went from .036" to .021" on string 7, and .034 to .021 on string 6Of course you can spot that with the naked eye though. So glad I have people like you to keep me in check. Have a good day.
@@IndependenceGuitar I’ve worked as a luthier for over 20 years and I don’t see any difference at all either. You even comment that you need to do it again because perhaps you notice that you didn’t remove anything.
@@gcanada305 lmao sure bro. mr master luthier. themn you would know that you sand a pre fab TUSQ nut from the bottom with sand paper. this was for demo purposes. I even did a video right after this that shows the proper way with a pre-fab. i didnt say i need to do it again, i said it felt a lot better. youre a master luthier, but you "dont see any difference"? lmao, youre talking thousandths of an inch. gtfo. master luthier my ass... what a joke. No, you're probab;ly just OP under a different account. I am an actual tech, and I know many luthiers. none of them would scream about how they cant see a few thousanths of an inch with the naked eye on an overhead camera angle. thats why luthiers use feeler gauges, calipers, micrometers etc...kick rocks.
The word “hack” is so overused but I gotta say, for those of us who can’t consider a $100 or $400 set of nut files, this is an amazing hack. Thank you for sharing it!
WARNING!: There are many companies that makes versions of these torch tip cleaners that are made of a soft pewter metal. These will dull fast and get you nowhere! There is a link in the DESCRIPTION to some stainless steel ones that will do you just fine. Also, don’t be afraid to adjust your truss rod, I only warned against it because I don’t want someone that doesn’t know what they are doing to crank on it like crazy and warp their neck. Feel free to ask any questions, this was one of the first videos i made, so obviously it’s not the best or the most thorough. The point is that this can be done yourself instead of paying a guitar store $80 for an adjustment… 🤷♂️
Thanks for the link to the stainless steel ones, the ones I picked up a while back on Amazon are garbage. Hopefully these do the trick
Just what I needed to know! I had feeler gauges but never thought about that tip cleaner in my tool box. I was working on an old Japan Yamaha I bought for twenty bucks at a yard sale after convincing them that the neck needed resetting, Yes, I sawed the heel from the bottom all the way up to the truss rod and drilled a hole all the way through for a bolt to pull back together the heel with some glue and after that abortion a new bridge and string pegs and the only saddle i had was a brass one for electric, after sizing and filing for two hours the old 50 something relic played like a new one with great action, after many truss rod adjustments. I love to bring something useless back alive again and hear it sing again. and thanks to your video, I did it tonight. forty miles to the nearest parts store and you have to have a parts drawer and improvise. Thanks for the help.
torch tip cleaners work great.Ive used them for years. just make sure to hang on to both ends of the wire when filing to keep them from flexing and bending. slow and steady wins the race.
This was great! I was able to scare up half ancient dozen feeler gauge sets from my trove of inherited tools. You saved me some buck, thanks!
No problem. I appreciate it. We live in a pretty cool era being able took look stuff up. So much stuff I had to learn the hard way before TH-cam and google, glad I can save people some hassle, or forking more money over to certain “centers” for overpriced repairs 😆.
Dude seriously this is a great video, I would for sure share it on a couple of those guitar pages on Facebook. This was very useful as I was fixing a nut the other day and your video popped up, awesome job bro awesome. ⚡⚡⚡
Lol glad someone found it useful. Ugh... i need to get back on ball. Work has been beating me up, so I’ve been slacking on uploading.
@@IndependenceGuitar its is a great video, I hear ya, work can dominate. Plan ahead though. I'll take a Sunday and film 2 or 3 videos and set them up for schedule release.
I used a thin piece of sand paper folded and went thru all six nut groves until I got it where I wanted it then took a pencil and used paper to get graphite from pencil and put some in each nut groove stays tuned and good playability
That’ll work too. You can also in many cases just sand the whole nut from the bottom.
Great idea! Really. Thanks
@@GeorgeTesta-l9q no problem! Just a couple tips that, now looking back, I didn’t make very clear in the video; If you are using a pre fabricated/slotted TUSQ nut, it’s better to sand from the bottom with sand paper to get it to the correct height before trying to file the slots. And if you are going to use torch tip cleaners to file the slots, just be aware it’s a slow tedious process. They work much better on bone nuts than TUSQ ones. It also helps if you get good quality stainless steel torch tip cleaners vs the cheap pewter/nickel ones. In short, I need to make a part 2 to this video because there is a few important caveats I left out because I kinda suck at making videos lol. Oh, and make sure you go to the graphtech website to get the part number for the correct nut that fits your radius, or at least gets you close to the correct radius.
If you have one of your old strings, say the low E, in a pinch you can use that as a nut file as well. I've done that a few times. Works great.
Yep, they work pretty well. If you ever use the torch tip cleaners, make sure they are stainless or iron. They sell tons of pewter ones online that dull really quick, and are pretty useless. I didn’t realize that was a thing when I made this.
The file he's using is a Welders tip cleaning kit.. They work great and are around $3.00 to $4.00 At Auto zone.. Haven't checked Harbor Fright yet.
Yes, exactly. I’ve seen some stores recently actually sell them as “guitar nut files”, and they jack the price up to $15-$20 which is such a scam.
It depends on which tip cleaners you get. I know exactly what you’re talking about because I’ve used ones before that were terrible. If you get a legitimate set, they work much better than strings and don’t cost more than $5-$10. Usually, getting them in store vs on the internet is the better way to go so you can see the quality of metal. Many of the ones on the internet are made from a terrible pewter metal and dull pretty quick. The good thing is that a real set doesn’t cost any more than the crap ones.
nice video, helped a ton, thank you :)
No problem, glad it helped! Just a tip tho, if you have quite a bit to file, it’s a bit faster and easier if you take the nut off completely and sand it from the bottom with sandpaper first. Even pressure while doing it. Then do the last little bit with whatever your file or makeshift file. Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll try to walk you through it.
@@IndependenceGuitar ohhhh that makes sense
Thanks for the video! I followed your instructions and was able to slot the nut on my new Yamaha FS800! I'm done giving my guitars to boomer guitar techs!
Thanks! If you ever buy those in the future, make sure they are the actual aluminum or stainless ones. Tons of places sell them on the internet as “guitar nut files”, and many are made out of pewter or some really soft metal. They dull really fast and take forever. Didn’t think about that when I made this.
Thanks a lot for the tips. I play .008 stringsets and I can't find files so narrow anywhere. I will try the feeler gauge hack later today.
Ok cool. Yeah i use 8’s on my 7 string that has a Floyd because it’s a 26.5”. Makes it feel more like a 25.5” scale. Just a tip, you’d be totally fine using a 9 gauge file even with an 8g string. The feeler gauge method isn’t the best, but it’ll definitely work. Just make some notches on the end and make sure you file toward the tuning peg when you do it. Go slow and check it often so you don’t over do it. Let me know how it turns out!
@@IndependenceGuitar Hi again! Thanks for the reply. I didn't try the feeler gauge hack. After reading some more info I learned that it should work with the .10 file set I have so I went with that and it worked just fine. Neat trick anyhow.
@@MatteMike2345 yeah, absolutely. Most nuts are actually filed out with a 11g-13g anyway. It’s ok if the slot is a little too big. The string will settle in after you play a bit. Glad you figured it out!
A luthier once told me, that unless youre using crazy amount of force, nothing you do with the truss rod can damage anything that hasn't already been damaged.
So it's not as serious as people think. Adjust your truss rods as you please, but remember: Truss rod adjustment is NOT for action adjustment!
That’s the truth. So many people are afraid of it, or they crank it really bad in one direction and don’t know how to get it back to proper relief. So I usually just tell people if they’re not sure, just take it to a tech. It just breaks my heart seeing people pay $100+ for something that is so easy to do and would only take 30-60 minutes. The only caveat to the truss rod thing is that I have seen and had to fix issues like frets starting to sprout because they cranked it too far into a back bow, and a some other issues, but that is usually relegated to cheaper guitars. But yeah, assuming the neck and fretboard are in good shape, people shouldn’t be afraid to mess with it.
Great vid, thanks!
Nice job on the video👌
Is that a Jackson 7 string? I just got a Jackson 7 string and the strings are a mile and a half high at the nut just like your are. They are so high all the notes go sharp up to the 5-6 fret. They have got to come down. Thanks for the info on this. I will try the welder tip cleaners. I can't pay $100 for a set of files.
Yeah, it’s a Jackson js22-7 dinky. The original nut was actually ok on mine, but I replaced it with a graphtech TUSQ nut, which i would absolutely recommend as they’re only $10-$15, and so worth it when it comes to tuning stability and better sustain. But yeah, welding torch tip cleaners work really well. Just one caveat, get the torch tip cleaners from a reputable hardware dealer/store. There are some sights that sell those torch tip cleaners as “guitar nut files” and/or just make them from some really cheap pewter or other soft metal, and they are garbage. Anyway, take it slow, check the height often so you don’t overdo it. If you notice, it took me like 4 times filing and measuring to get it right. Don’t be surprised if it’s kind of a tedious process, it’s sort of the trade off of not having those nice $180 file sets 😆.
I used it and damn it took million years to file! It was done on tusq material and almost took forever.
Yeah, something I didn’t really think about when making the video, was that there are tons of places that sell those where the metal is made of pewter, and they dull really fast, and yeah, it will take a while. I need to link where I got mine from. They work better because they’re made of a harder metal. But, on the other hand, i guess having take forever isn’t all bad. Less of a chance of going too far. 🤷♂️ lol.
@@IndependenceGuitar LOL I take your point, indeed it almost filed the nut by 0.0001 per mm so for every 0.1 mm i need to make, I gotta scrape like hundres of filing movement back and forth IYKWIM. I don't mind this, I just wanna complain "why so long?!?!" lol
Those tip-cleaner / files come out of the holder and off the spindle. Makes the filing a lot easier and more accurate if you work with a single file at a time.
Really, I didn’t actually look to see if they did that. Even when I used them when I was welding, I always just used them in the casing. Going to check that out, thanks. Would make it a bit easier.
It sounds like the problem was likely less with the nut and more of how you setup the saddle height and radius of your new bridge. What I usually do with Tusq nuts is sand down the bottom of them until the bottom of the low E string is approximately .010” from the top of the 1st fret. The remainder of the strings should also have that .010 gap if you sanded the bottom of the nut evenly since TUSQ does a very good job of pre-slotting them correctly. Only time I had to file the nut was to widen the slot for the thicker gauge strings that I use on my Jazzmaster.
It was the nut. It was sanded from the bottom. I just used this to show how to file the nut down to proper height with any nut including the graphtech.
@@IndependenceGuitar Ah good stuff!
You can actually use the string itself to clean out the rough cut left by the torch tip cleaner; acoustic nuts usually are more involved, but they don't leave a lot of extra material on most pre slotted electric nuts. When determining height, there are standard recommendations, but I've found that leaving as much height as you can comfortably fret is going to provide better string rotation.I've seen many cases where the slots are too low, as well as too high.Where the bridge and truss are easily changed,( I highly recommend having an inexpensive guitar to learn how to adjust the truss, - many need constant tweaks, and it's good to know) the nut remains consistent.Take your time and get it right,- over time, if that's what it takes.
Peace.
All good advice. This particular nut was a precut graph tech, and had almost a full millimeter of clearance while holding down the 3rd fret. I had battled with the truss rod and action for a while before I finally decided there was no other way around it than to actually file the nut. Normally when determining the height on a blank or precut, it’s easiest just to use a carpenters pencil to lay flat on the frets, and draw a lower limit right on the face of the nut, but since I had feeler gauges on hand, but no carpenter pencils, I went with route B. As far as the truss rod goes, I have no issue adjusting them. I just know tons of people that are deathly afraid to, and i get customers fairly often that have an improperly installed truss. The last one warped his neck down at the 3/4th fret toward the low side. So I just tell people if they don’t know what they’re doing, and they’re afraid, take it to a pro and see if they’ll let you watch them do it. I should have included using the string to smooth it out, i just didn’t think about it since it’s not needed on the graph techs. The graphite files out smooth with just the tip cleaners. Anyway, thanks man, i appreciate the input. This was one of my first when I was still pretty camera shy. I’ve been doing tech work for over 8 years and just got my apprenticeship as a luthier, but a lot of stuff seems to go out the window once the camera is on lol. I’m getting a little better every time.
Where did you get these files great video i have one slot or two maybe need adjust and Stu Macs are $123 plus now
I actually got mine from a hardware store. Something I didn’t realize when I made this video is that they sell “torch tip cleaners” as “guitar nut files” online, but I wouldn’t recommend using them. The ones I have are made of stainless steel, but many of these sets are made of some cheap pewter metal that won’t work that well. I’ve actually contemplated taking this video down a couple times because I know people will buy the bad ones and be frustrated like “why isn’t this working?!”. I actually want to make a follow up video to this one because I wanted to give this other set of “precision needle files” a try. They’re only $5 and look like they would work even better than the torch tip cleaners. Either way, if you go with the torch tip cleaners which you can get at a hardware store or online, try to get the steel ones. The pewter ones will dull fast and make it a frustrating task. You can also sand the nut from the bottom with sand paper if it’s a height issue and not a slot issue. Anyway, here is the link to the other files i wanted to try. Hope this helps! 👍
www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html?campaignid=12169617963&adsetid=116466541149&product=4614&store=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6drbm--1-gIVdBh9Ch1VOgKGEAQYBSABEgLaBPD_BwE
@@IndependenceGuitar Right found em thanks
@@IndependenceGuitar Hi man! Hope you're well.
Just came to ask if you got a chance to give the 'precision needles' a try, and how you found them.
Wishing you the best in life!
This was a fantastic video, thank you. I'm headed to the store this afternoon. Also, the juxtaposition of the unplugged feel test at the end with the background music was really funny. Now I want to know what kind of music you make!
Thanks! That’s fair enough! I had been working on learning a lot of different stuff, like I just posted a Steve Vai cover this morning. Now that I got that out of my system, I just started to record a few of my own. Should be up in the next week or two.
@@IndependenceGuitar that's awesome! I checked out some of your other videos after I commented. The Chimiara cover was unreal! I am pretty eclectic in my tastes, too. Thanks again for the info!
Hell yeah, hope i see you around
This is hilarious, I had this exact thought yesterday… “I wonder how well feeler gauges would work to tweak a nut slot…”
It’ll work if you don’t have anything else. Just make sure you get your measurements right and don’t go too far.
@@IndependenceGuitar yeah I'll not be going that route, I just thought it was funny that I had the thought minutes before finding your video. I'm extremely unhappy with all of the pre-cut aftermarket options so I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy the proper tools so I can make my own nuts from bone blanks
Really? Have you tried the graphtech tusq XL? It’ll run you about 1/5 the price, and perform 2x better. They’re an organic polymer that is graphite and Teflon infused. You don’t have to file any nut slots or anything. You just take a piece of sand paper and sand the nut from the bottom until it’s at the correct height. I love them, i put them on all my guitars except for Floyd rose obviously. Anyway, try one if you haven’t.
I've got two sets of those torch tip cleaners, a set like those in the blue cover and the same files on a ring and I tried them last night on a Squier Classic Vibe Stratocaster nut and they didn't do anything! They're not course enough and maybe work on cheap plastic but this nut was supposed to be bone and those files couldn't do anything. I'm thinking maybe wrapping sand paper around a feeler gauge would work better.
Doesn’t surprise me actually. Some of the companies that make them are total crap. And if they’ve been used before, they dull really easy. The set I have is an actual welders set. They’re steel. I’ve been seeing a lot of crap, even ones sold as “guitar nut files”, that are made of a pewter like material. Tbh, I’ve been thinking about just taking this video down because I don’t want people to buy those. Most places that sell them don’t have a way to differentiate them either. I would recommend just using your guitar string and running it back and forth. Use the G string for the last B and E slot. OR, what be might be an even easier solution is just to buy a graphtech tusq nut for $15 or less. Then you can just sand it down from the bottom because they already come preslotted.
question
where can i buy those gauge measurement thingy
Pretty much anywhere that sells auto parts. O’reily’s, Autozone, Walmart… etc. or online at Harbor freight, Amazon… They cost between 5-15 dollars. Here is a set for around $5, or search around and find a set you like better. www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-pc-63665.html?campaignid=12144811130&adsetid=117789286758&product=63665&store=370&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7uqdjv6V9gIVHv3jBx1IWQ1fEAQYAyABEgIoevD_BwE
How well do you these would work on a titanium nut. Its an adjustable height one but I need to file the slot to an angle.
Yikes man, i wouldn’t use them. I mean, i would have to see the style of nut to really give any advice on how to file it, but this would definitely not be a viable method on a titanium nut. They have special files made for filing titanium that are pretty expensive. Plus depending on which one you have, i wouldn’t want to mess it up aesthetically as some are really expensive (others aren’t, maybe $15). Without buying the special files, if I had a titanium nut i really needed to file down, the first thing I would probably try is getting a set of Ernie ball cobalt wound strings, and using the appropriate sized string to try and file down the slot. Cobalt is a very hard and used to drill and cut steel, so i might try that to see if it works, but no guarantees. Secondly, if that didn’t work, I would try a Dremel with maybe a cobalt or diamond bit, but that’s also something you have to be very gingerly with. Anyway, is it an after market nut, or did it come with the guitar? What style of guitar, and what style nut? If i knew more about what i was working with, could maybe give better advice. But definitely hesitant to tell someone to take a dremel to their nut. I don’t want you to be in a worse spot than you are in now.
@@IndependenceGuitar Aw man thats quite a lot. I like the colbat string idea thought that was funny and creative. So the most info i can give you is: this is a $25 Guyker Titanium Adjustable Nut from Amazon, so not much to lose here, Itll be set on a neck with a tilted headstock like a Gibson Headstock. Tuning machines are 6 in line. The guitar here is actually one im currently building with my friend. Anyways thats all the info I have to share at the moment. My friend does have a dremel so I might try that out. Thanks for the quick response and tips man.
Ah, I see. So what you’re really concerned about is filing an angle in the nut to compensate for the severe headstock slant. Since it’s a build, I imagine you haven’t actually played it yet. I wouldn’t worry about it yet, and just cross that bridge when you get to it. I don’t think you’ll have any issue with it even with the headstock slant. If anything, you may have a little trouble with the high and low E strings with the outward bend the string has to do, but in all honesty, I really doubt you will have a problem. As long as you have the nut set right, it should work just fine the way it is even without filing the nut down to a slant. Try it as is first and see if it works ok, you might end up not having to file at all.
@@IndependenceGuitar hmm, true, thanks again for the ideas. When were at the stage of test fitting all the parts before painting, Ill string it up to see how the nut works. Thanks again.
@@user-zv3yo9kw2i no problem, if you remember, let me know how it works once you get it all set up. I’m curious.
I wanted to see a metal locking nut.
Thanks for the video- question:
Did you choose the gauge of file you used based on the gauge of string you would be using there, or do you use a certain set gauge of file for each particular slot?
I want to lower my standard low E string slot a little bit- wondering which gauge file I should use to do it. I will have a 42 gauge E string in there most of the time (from a standard set of Slinky 9's)
I was using the files that were closest (slightly bigger) than the gauge of string I planned to put there. With an E string, I generally would use a 52g file. Not to fit a 52 gauge string, but to make room for a 42-46 to lay down and have enough room as to not get hung up anywhere on the nut. The nut is not one of those things that has to be filed to a specific string size. As long as the nut is not cut too deep, too shallow, or not wide enough for the string, you won’t have any issue. So rule of thumb, just file it out to a gauge that is larger than the string you are using. The real trick is getting the depth right. Too high, and it will mess up your action and intonation, to low, and it will buzz out.
Super helpful thank you
Appreciate it! Glad it helped!
Where do you buy these?
Here is a link to some good ones. Which ever ones you buy, make sure they are stainless steel. There are a ton of companies out there that sell these, especially the ones that are labeled “guitar nut files“ that are made out of a soft pewter metal. Those will dull really fast, and you will pretty much get nowhere. I actually didn’t realize that they made shitty ones like that when I made this video, otherwise I would’ve warned against it. But yeah, just make sure they are stainless steel. m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200659229_200659229?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&Google_LIA&Welding%20%3E%20Gas%20Welding%20%2B%20Cutting%20Apparatus%20%3E%20Strikers%20%2B%20Tip%20Cleaners&Hobart&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpeWLh9yG9gIVEh-tBh0g4wWOEAQYAiABEgI-dvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I used to be a welder so I’m sure I have all this stuff laying around, thanks for the tips.
No problem. Glad i could help. One tip I forgot to mention in the video, is an easy way to make sure you don’t go to far while filing, is using a carpenters pencil to lay on the frets and make a line on the front face of the nut. If you use to weld, I’m sure you can figure out how to use a carpenters pencil lol. I should make a video on that, because I’m sure not everyone knows how to use feeler gauges.
Independence, MO?
Haha. No, but not too far off. I’m on the other side of the Mississippi. “Independence” Guitar is kind of a long story. I should explain it in my next video because I’m sure it’s something that a lot of us go through. The short version is that I was frustrated with my band, really wanted to quit and find another one, but these guys are like family to me. So instead, I decided to make the channel so that I could teach/learn things without having to rely on anyone else. Something that is totally independent... hence the name lol.
@@IndependenceGuitar Ah right on, I was wondering if I needed to make a trip to a guitar store I wasn't aware existed haha. I definitely know how that goes, pretty much the same reason I started my channel. Thanks for the tips, now off to salvage this Tusq nut!
I had the same question, sitting in Raytown and hoping this was based in KCMO.
Thank you! Just bought a fender and my 3rd string literally pops off the nut if i bend anything less than my 5th fret :(
That sucks. Pretty common though. Many times they don’t cut the nut fat enough out of factory because they’d rather have it too high than low. Just make sure you measure when you file so you don’t go too low. And if you mess up, Graphtech sells those TUSQ ones for about $10-$15 bucks. Anyway, let me know how it works out!
@@IndependenceGuitar just tried your hack and it worked well! Problem is now when I really want to dig into a bend they can still pop out. Do you think I should go wider or deeper in my slots? Thanks
@@brendanjames8818 if they are popping out, yes, absolutely. You just want to make sure that you don’t go too deep or your strings will start buzzing out. I know you probably have a good idea of what string gauges you should be using for your tuning, but going to say it anyway just in case. Make sure that your strings are not popping out because there is just not enough tension (basically because you are using way too thing a gauge for the tuning). But assuming you are in standard tuning and using something like 9-42, you should be good there. Just use feeler gauges to measure the clearance on the 1st fret while holding down the third one on each string, and file it down as low as you need. Just watch how I do it in the video. At least the strings aren’t popping out anymore how they were. Just go a bit deeper and it should solve the problem even when you bend. If all else fails, buy a graphtech tusq nut, they’re only $10-$15, and file that down to your preference.
@@IndependenceGuitar yeah im considering the graphtech, for now its fine and worked great. One of my strings is kinda buzzing out when I pick it to hard but think it has to do with my truss rod. Using 10-52 in drop b / c# standard. I think ill keep playing around with it, this is a great fix but still it would be very hard to go to deep considering the amount of filing you would have to do with these things LOL
@@brendanjames8818 oh yeah, definitely make sure your truss rod is straight before you start filing any further. Also, i would try 11-52 in drop B, that’ll definitely give you the extra tension to help it from popping out, and it still won’t be too stiff.
Great video. I see where many people measure the 1st fret to bottom of the string distance with the open string, and others do it with the string fretted on the 3rd fret like you did and I like that method the best. So did you set all 6 strings to 0.012" ? I've seen some of the other videos that measure with open strings and they recommend something like 0.025" on the low E and progressively less as they get to the high E (0.011"). Them having progressively lower measurements just due to the fact that they are doing it with open strings, or is it just persona preference? Thanks!
I definitely prefer to do it from holding down the third fret vs open strings because it closes the distance and allows you to use thinner feeler gauges (which tend to be the less expensive ones lol). But no, I don’t do them entirely uniform. You can tend to get away with a slightly lower clearance on the thinner strings if you’re careful, and the lower you can get them on the nut, the less your pitch will bend while fretting the note. That and it just makes it easier to play overall the lower you can get the action. Many people (including myself) always try to solve the action issues from the bridge end, and turns out many times it’s from the nut end 🤷♂️.
@@IndependenceGuitar Thanks. I got a new Ibanez Mikro guitar for my daughter and the setup was terrible. The truss rod was way too tight so there was a back bow. Then to keep the strings from buzzing they had the saddles adjusted way high at the bridge. But even after fixing those things, the nut slots are so high that it isn't possible to play in the first few positions without being out of tune. Lowering the strings at the nut will be my next step.
@@shanefrank3281 well at least that’s a proper first guitar vs a first act or something 😆. I’m surprised ibanez let it come out of factory like that. Once you got it setup right, that thing should rip.
Gauge and actual measurement are not the same thing. 10 gauge is not 0.010 inch. It's actually 30 gauge.
Not sure where you get that measurement from, but yes 10g is in fact 0.010”. I believe you’re confusing body jewelry gauge with what a gauge measurement is. Gauge directly refers to the relationship in thousandths of an inch, and usually has a tolerance limit (i.e. tolerance = +/- 0.00009”). The gauge and tolerance are usually measured with micrometers. This refers to how much thicker or thinner a piece of material (or string) can be before that producer would no longer consider it “in tolerance”. It’s an easy mistake to make. I didn’t learn that stuff until I started working with steel cutting machines. And to this day, I am not 100% sure why body jewelry is gauged differently. I’ve probably googled it 20 times in the last 10 years and can’t seem to find a clear answer why. If you know, I would love to hear it!
Edit: here is an article on how string gauge is measured. This should clear up any confusion you have with what gauge means. blog.andertons.co.uk/learn/best-guitar-string-gauge
@IndependenceGuitar . A 10 gauge AWG wire(steel or copper) is 0.1019 inches, a 10 gauge sheet of steel is 0.135 inches, and a 10 gauge shotgun bore is 0.775 inches. Just saying, gauge does not mean actual measurement. It's wrong to call a 0.010 inch diameter string(wire), 10 gauge. Tolorance is irrelevant to my point, and no, 10g is not 10 mil. AWG is the standard for measuring wire thickness, so you not knowing where I got that surprises me.
@@E-BikingAdventures 🤦♂️ bro, stop it. 🛑 you’re wrong, it’s ok. Learn and move on, or dislike the video and call me names for correcting you, and move on. Here is the literal glossary definition of gauge. It would have taken you 5 seconds, but I went ahead and did the work for you. www.labelplanet.co.uk/glossary/gauge/#:~:text=A%20standard%20unit%20of%20measure,of%20an%20inch%20(0.00001).
Edit: and again, your gun comparison, those are not units of measurement to themselves. In 12g, gauge is used in its verb term to “to gauge something”. It’s called a 12g because you could make 12 equal diameter balls out of 1 pound of lead. Straight dunning Krueger effect… fuck!
You wud have to do something really dumb to damage a truss rod all guitar players shudnt be afraid to alter it, and save yrself some cash
Agreed. But for some reason, a lot of people are. So instead of arguing with them about it, “take it to a professional.” But I’ll tell you I’ve seen a lot of first timers that didn’t know what they were doing go ahead and crank their neck until it it warped. I get more business from that than you’d think lol.
@@IndependenceGuitar well if your getting apes cranking on a truss rod like that business will be good buddy,seriously it tells you OK enuf is enuf if u have to clamp the guitar between Yr legs for more leverage I'd say use gone too far,I'm only a bedroom player but truss rod action and nut slots,frett polishing etc aren't rocket science go steady and its not difficult
@@paulslack4303 again, I agree. Most of the time it’s where it’s not installed correctly. Most of the time in less expensive guitars, but with more expensive ones as well. For example the last one i did was on a JS22 where the kid swears he only did 1 1/2 turns and instead of creating a bow, it twisted the neck down by the 3rd and 4th fret toward the low side and warped it. It wasn’t even because he was trying to fix an issue, it was because some TH-cam video told him that SRV played with a significant concave bow. 🤷♂️ It happens.
less is more in most cases with any guitar modification! Just remember that people
If you could whisper next time, it would be even more enjoyable..oh....and stretch what we can't hear out as long as possible.
Like ASMR style? I mean... we can make that happen. That’s a great idea yomomma ahotoo.
Fret files less than $100 stupid move
You mean nut files. No frets were harmed or filed during the making of this film, only nuts.
No tips for the small strings? I'm sorry because you seem proud of this video but it was not very helpful. The way too long dull and muffled voice preamble was unwatchable as well. Try again. You seem to have some basic knowledge.
How do I seem proud of this video exactly? I tend to find people talk shit like yourself are pretentious, suffer from massive Dunning Krueger effects, and think they know everything because they spend all their time in the TH-cam guitarist echo chamber regurgitating the same fallacies, but actually don’t know shit. Not sure why it matters so much that you had to pour out your poisonous garbage to me, you could have just clicked a different video. But the fact that you were here watching it already tells me that you don’t know shit. The difference between you and everyone else is that is that everyone else knows it, but you’re content on smelling your own farts. Have a great day.
It was a fine video.
@@FiddleSticks800 I appreciate it man. I’m no TH-camr, I don’t have fancy video equipment or expensive video editing software. Was just fixing an issue with one of my guitars and figured I’d share the process for anyone who needed to see it. And if people have questions, or if I left something out, I’ll try to help anyone with anything. I get sick of all the venomous crap on here sometimes.
This seems like a you problem. Video and audio are fine.
Chill dude, I thought it was a very helpful video and I will be using this myself.