How To: GE Washer Tub Bearing WH2X1198
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2014
- How To Replace: GE Tub Bearing WH2X1198 www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-...
For a full article, please visit: www.appliancepartspros.com/b/...
Symptoms: Hear metal-on-metal noise when the washer is running
Tools: Torx 20 screwdriver, putty knife, 1/4” nut driver, 5/16” nut driver, wrench with long extension and 7/16” socket, spanner wrench with adapter, hammer, WD-40, large flathead screwdriver, needle nose pliers, broom handle, 1/2” socket with ratchet, small flathead screwdriver
This GE made Washer Tub Bearing replaces the following older part numbers on General Electric, Hotpoint, RCA, Sears and Kenmore Washers: 279136, WH02X1198.
Buy the new Washer Tub Bearing WH2X1198 here: www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-...
Most orders delivered in 2 business days or less.
If you enjoyed this video, please click the like button. Subscribe to this channel for more appliance repair tutorials.
If you need any more technical advice, call us at 1-877-477-7278 or chat with us on our website www.appliancepartspros.com/. We're available 7 days a week.
For more appliance advice, information, and tips, follow us on social media.
Facebook: / appliancepartspros
Twitter: / applpartspros - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Technician charged us $99 to quoted us $800 to replace tub bearing and said we would be better buying a new machine. Recommended make and where we should buy!!. Watched your video bought the parts $40 spent some enjoyable husband and wife time and completed ourselves. Only hard bit was removing the tub bearing. HAs to be an easier way.
Perfect video, combined with the seal replacement video. Replaced both the bearing & seal as the Kid's washer was extra noisy and stopped spinning. Had to use some muscle to get the tub to spin ahead of getting the parts.
When dismantling, did find some water in the washer base pan, didn't determine if this was from the overflow tube or leaking past the seal.
Set up a tablet and continuously followed the video(s).
Residual water in the outer tub drain base needs to be drained down.
Bought a 1-11/16" socket & used an impact gun to remove the tub nut. Parents owned laundromats back in the day & tub nuts were never fun. Used some penetrating oil to help loosen some of the corrosion. It took a few rata-tat-tats to finally break the nut free. Did use a soft wire brush to continuously clean corrosion from parts through the process.
Since the bearing was being replaced, punched the seal out from the bottom with a large socket instead of trying to lift it with screwdrivers as in the Seal video. Used silicon grease on the seal instead of soap as the video showed.
The rest went well, without issues - though some extra muscle was needed due to corrosion & tight parts.
Did take the time to clean years of residual scum from all the parts, took that stuff outside and used a brush & garden hose.
Overall took about 4 hours - including some time for lunch.
Parts replaced: Bearing, Seal & Washer (between the bearing & transmission).
Doing this tomorrow for a Resident. Done it a few times but never used my impact to get that nut out. Giving that a go today 👌🏾👌🏾 1yr in as Residential Maintenance technician
Thanks. I just replaced my washer's tub bearing. It was making loud noise during the spinning cycle. And no left over parts or screws😉😉
Find this video a very good explanation of opening up a GE. I almost called the "man". Once I got the front off I found the problem of banging. First one of the rubber top hangers was off and no screw to be found anywhere to hold it on it's mount. Second an overflow tube, nobody uses was hanging loose because of a broken tiewrap. This tube is hard white plastic and it was making the loud bang on the outside plate. I tied the overflow tube back to the washer motor mount and added a piece of wire to hold down the rubber top hanger then put in a new screw with a flat washer to hold the rubber in place. It is spinning beautifully now. This doesn't release the operator from repositioning far out loads that cause heavy shaking.
My mom was just quoted 800$ to fix the main bearing I’m trying to stop her from buying a new washer but even if she does I’m going to fix the bearing. Thanks for the video. Cheers
Thank You for helping me a lot. You are a REAL PRO 👍
WOW! Awesome! Amazing! Wonderful! Will you adopt me? My neighbor just gave me his GE with this problem and now I have the confidence to repair it! Thank you¡
Hi, great video. Thanks for that. I wanted only to know why suddenly my GE washing machine model WCSR2090G8WW produce very tiny oil spots in the water. From where do this oily substances come. It makes my clothes dirty. I notice some brown tiny spots on the clothes. There absolutely no water leak underneath the machine. To troubleshoot by running the machine with water filled in and without clothes. So I noticed oil spots on the water surface. What has gone bad? Any idea ?
I'm want to thank you and your crew for this helpful video. As a tech support specialist in my company, we have made a lot of these videos. I know there is a lot of effort to put helpful videos for your clients. I genuinely thank you for help. Is there any other wearable parts than the bearing I should replace while I am inside?
Clear and easy to follow instructions
Great video just wish you be honest about how hard it is to remove the inner nut
Thank you. I will keep you in mind next time I need parts.
kingofcastlechaos You are welcome! Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed.
I watched some of these videos on how to change the Drum Bushing (bearing) and decided to turn the machine upside down and oil the bushing with 20W machine oil. Now my wife can't even hear it change cycles. It was easy and did not cost me anything but a bit of oil. I really donlt understand why they don't oil them when they put in the new bushing.
Here's an update 27April2020. The machine oil only lasted about a month, so I got out my Wurth HHS 5000 and soaked it really good. It's been quiet so far. This Wurth HHS 5000 is the best lubricant for bushings.
Really?
@@askdfour Yes really, I did an update on my comment from year ago. Had to redo it a month later with Wurth HHS 5000 and its been quiet to date...
24revealer mine doesn’t squeak it’s more of a whirring loud sound
@@24revealer- I looked it up on Amazon and it’s $42. Think I’ll stick to silicone grease!
@@condor5635 Shortly after that the bearing in the bottom of the washer got really loud. I tore it down and replaced it, but it only lasted a 3 months and it was worse. Next time I will get a better bearing than what NAPA sells. Now the wife has a new set of Commercial Maytags.
How do you replace the bearing that's connected to the shaft assembly? That's the one that's bad on my washer
Shawn Burgwald, I cannot comment as you have the reply feature off. You can squirt some lubricant or penetrating oil and let it sit for a while, let it soak over night so hopefully you are able to break it free.
Amazing walkthrough!! Thanks a ton!
Im back in business! One thing to note, you have to wirebrush the hub nut theads and shaft good! Including the shaft threads. Spray a little wd40 on the threads and the inner shaft ring protrudes above the hub nut slightly... had to go back in for a 2nd time.
i have a kenmore top loader model 110.26934691 that makes that meral on metal noise plus sometimes it dont want to spin. can you recommend what i need to fix this?
I pulled the nut, washer and split ring. I had to put blocks under the outer tub and beat the shaft down with a steel rod and a small sledge hammer until I could get a small T20 right angle bit on the Tub Bearing screw and unscrew it. Then I used the blocks under the outer tub again to beat on the transmission shaft to get it out the rest of the way. I then had to use a puller to get the Tub Bearing off the transmission shaft. I went over this video three times thinking I had missed something, I hadn't, it was just that stuck. Now i'll re-tap the top screw hole that slightly mushroomed and finish the job. Wow that was insane!
Thanks for letting us know how the repair went for you!
I have everything off inside the tub but there is a rubber seal at the bottom of the spline I don't know how to remove not shown in video.
Recommend that if doing this project you purchase new water seal, split ring, and spanner wrench set (there's a cheap option that works fine) before starting. Split ring is cast metal and easy to fracture when 'loosening' the way the video suggests. Also label hot/cold water feeds for the house since hot isn't always on the left but the washer indicates which line is which. I also replaced hoses with braided metal type since mine were over 5 years old. My friend just had to replace his floor thanks to a washer hose leak and spent $$$$$$$. I used a vise grip and small hammer to get the tub nut off (ugh!) but scarred it up in the process so I purchased a new tub nut as well. Ordered parts on line and spent around $30.
My split ring spacer broke while removing.
Better be ready for some work. My bushing was frozen on the shaft. I had to beat on the bushing bottom with a 4 pound hammer for half an hour to separate bushing from shaft. Used punch and hammer and a half can of wd 40. If I had known it was this difficult I wouldn't have done it. I know it looks easy in the video but I live in the real world. Never again.!
@@blw284 Oh crap...this is the comment I feared. As a single female, I fix things myself by watching a lot of these videos. My GE washer stopped spinning and agitating. I put in a new drive motor and now it spins, but there is a very loud noise during spin cycle still ( I noticed the noise shortly before spinning stopped) I bought new parts and now will attempt the bearing...but already confused because I don't know which wires go to lid switch. Video says orange and white, but mine doesnt have that. And my pressure hose won't come off as easily as his did. Im afraid now after reading your experience.
Thank you very much, this video helped me fix my washing machine.
You're welcome!
Seriously?
Very well done. Clear complete Step by step instructions
i
I highly recommend this unit i do not know why the g/e company moved this model out of the market , here in my country we cannot get it, customers are forced to buy the new model that sucks.
Great video! Does it make any sense to replace other wear parts while the washer is this far apart? I am pretty sure this is the problem with my GE Profile washer so I don't want to save a dime and have to take it apart again.
Hard to say what you might need, all the aluminum parts under the agitator have a tendency to corrode. You may have to take it apart and see what you find bad.
I need to did this for someone, what is reasonable amount to charge? I'm wondering if it's worth it, water is leaking from somewhere,, on my Maytag Atlantis I replaced the bearing and seal, but I don't see a real here to replace, I have to determine if it's cost effective because the bottom of the machine is very rusty, it's in a very humid basement.
If this is pretty easy, I'd hate to see what a hard repair looks like ;)
Benjamin Yunker While you do have to disassemble the machine it is a pretty simple job!
Great video!
LOL
What are the chances of the transmission shaft being junk as well?
What spanner wrench should I get?
GE style top load washer (Hotpoint)
Makes alot of racket during the spin cycle...disassembled the washer and the 4 damper straps are good, 4 suspension rods are good, cpunter weight is intact and in good shape, and ideas as to why it is making so much noise during the spin cycle?
Thanks
First it was making loud noises, now my washing machine is no longer turning at all. Has bearing gone completely. Or has the transmission gone out too?? How can I check if transmission is still go??
That is a lot to try and cover here, I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
Thanks Matt, awesome video. save me a ton of money
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed up!
I SINCERELY APPRECIATE YOUR TECHNICAL SUPPORT HERE ON THIS SITE.I HAVE GE FRONT LOADING WASHING MACHINE THAT MAKES STRANGE NOISE WHEN SPINNING.
WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM AFFECTING THE WASHER ?
Joseph Adewusi Not really sure what the noise is. I would try and narrow down where its coming from. You can also post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
Whenever my GE is on the spin cycle, it sounds like a freight train and rocks quite a bit. It seems to finish the job like normal, but it makes quite a racket and I'm worried that some part(s) will eventually wear out from this. Would this part replacement help, or do you have another recommendation? I've heard it could be the bearing + outer tub, or the clutch. GE is model GTWN4950L0WS
Hard to say over the web what you are hearing, the spin bearing can make a racket when it has failed. I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
Thank you for the suggestion PROS
My Kenmore washer jumps off the floor and shakes violently when changing cycles
Will this tub bearing fit GE model WNSE6280B1WW? I only ask, because when I look for the tub bearing, all that comes up, is a round washer. Any info would be appreciated.
No, this part won't fit that model. Here is the parts breakdown for your model: www.appliancepartspros.com/tub-basket-agitator-parts-for-ge-wnse6280b1ww.html
All these people saying its a difficult repair crack me up. Im an HVAC tech so this is easy as Sunday morning
An old Whirlpool Direct-Drive washer is looking at this and LAUGHING.
I agree 100%. I owned Whirlpool Design 2000 series in the 80s direct drive great machine to work on. John in Ohio
This helped me a lot thanks
Glad we were able to help you out. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
I find a lot of your videos to be helpful. What I don’t understand is why the brand is not mentioned for the less experienced.
This is evidently a GE, but some may not realize this.
Weird how you never mentioned the seal for the water to prevent the bearing going bad again
My GE washer model GTWN4250M1WS makes lots of noise spinning. From what I can tell, replacing the tub bearing likely is not even the issue, it's more likely the WH38X10017 mode shifter bearing.
I don't think I can handle just replacing the bearing in the mode shifter assembly. But I can get the whole unit and shaft for $75 bucks.
If I replace the tub seal, the washer, the mode shifter/shaft assembly, do I even need to bother with the tub bearing?
Oh and should I invest in the spanner wrench?
Yes replace bearing and yes get spammer wrench
Can you give me some tips, ideas on how to remove the hub nut? I cannot move it at all it won't budge, I'm stuck here trying to move on to finish the job. Thank you!
Use a Dremel and chisel is out. Just be careful on the threads
Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. Question, where can I get the spanner wrench tool that you have in the video? Any idea what size it is? would a large socket or crescent wrench work? i hate to buy a tool just for a one time job.
djaap30 The wrench is not super expensive, you can get it on our website. The part number is: AP4503397. You could try a adjustable wrench if you can get it to fit in the tub. I hate buying one time tools too but sometimes it pays for itself just by making it easier!
djaap30 - believe me get the wrench and save frustration-$12 in Amazon. 1-11/16ths is the size
Very well done video. BUT you say it is an easy repair at 28 seconds into the video. Your definition of easy is different from mine. :)
Excellent video. Your lectures are very helpful . Are there top loading brands that tend to need less repairs? I am looking for a new top load washer and the reviews are all over the place as far as which ones break down more often, and which ones appear to need fewer repairs. Thank you.
There really isn't something that doesn't break down more often than the other. Most of the time, it requires following the manufacture's guidelines and a little luck.
Excelent! very good!
Thanks again!
What if you "killed" yourself, replaced this so-called bearing ("bearing" my butts - piece of aluminum), assembled it back
and you still have the same issue ? Then you drag your washer to the backyard and "fix" it with a big hammer. Don't forget to record it. Then you go to the store and buy new washer.
Now couple questions:
1. why did you even try to fix it ?
2. why is it, GE ("poor and miserable") corporation is trying to save on material.
Why don't just make "bearing", for instance, from stainless steel or just install a wheel bearing ?
Answer is: GE has a "smart" engineers and population is not pretty "smart" (they think)
Instead of using washer for 25 -30 years, people are using it just for 10 y. max.
I don't buy GE anymore. Just because I don't want to.
Just because GE engineers are too smart for me.
I am unable to get the bearing out to save my life! A flat head screwdriver doesn't help at all. I've tried flipping it over and tapping on the bearing from inside the tub, but no luck there either. Any other recommendations?
Mine was stuck also...turned over the tub inserted a flat screw driver to the top of the bearing and tapped on both sides with a hammer....2 minutes later it popped out.
Use a socket of appropriate size. Penetrating oil. Drop a sledge hammer from height onto socket. Protect tub with towels and properly support it
This is years old but im in desperate need of an answer: MY hexbolt under the agitator is STUCK, ive soaked it in WD-40 and spent multiple days trying to loosen it but no luck. Any tips on hwo to get it loose?
Unfortunately, there isn't a trick to get that off. You will just need to keep working at it to get that off.
Guy looks like Danny devito and Napoleon Dynamite. !
Great tutorial btw thanks
Oh, that’s all you have to do? Don’t forget your specialized hub nut wrench folks...
If it seems impossible to remove get a large socket that is as big as the bearing and smaller than the plastic bore. Set it on the bearing on the inside of the tub and drop a hammer multiple times so it lands squarely on the socket. Drop from a foot or a foot and a half. This impact worked great for me when prying did nothing and made me worry about damaging the tub on the bottom side while prying.
Also, don't do this repair on its own. While it is apart replace the main tub seal, the washer and the aluminum main nut (1-11/16ths). Even consider buying the drive block/bell that comes off after agitator is removed. Spending another 20-30 bucks on these items is well worth it. Also do NOT attempt to remove main nut without the spanner wrench. Believe me I tried a long time with a pipe wrench and soaking multiple hours. It will not work 98% of the time. Get the $12 wrench on Amazon and save the frustration. Even it you do get it off tightening it back will not work properly without the spanner wrench. Grease both sides of the bearing with some silicon grease too. Good luck!
Those spanner nuts are from hell. There always corroded to the shaft due to the damp nasty environment of the tub.
@@nyki7fykxtjxyi - that’s why you get the wrench. Do not bother trying other ways. Not worth it. I have mine hanging in my garage ready to go for next time!
@@condor5635 it depends on how corroded the nut is. I've seen some that the wrench wouldn't even work
@@nyki7fykxtjxyi - well you’re not gonna know unless you have a wrench and try it so…
@@condor5635 nice gaslighting attempt. What difference does it make. A seized nut is a seized nut.
i thought that bearing would have some grease on it. instead of a bearing it looks to me like a sleeve from the transfer case. so I s all the grease in the transmission?
It is a sintered bearing it does not need grease, there is gear oil in the transmission. Hope the video helped you out!
@@appliancepartspros Thanks! I did not know what that bearing type was called or how it works. Additional info: Sintered bearings are used whenever particularly low noise levels are required, loads are variable or little space is available. They consist of pressed metal powder whose pores are impregnated with a lubricant. The impregnating oil or fluid ensures permanent lubrication of the bearings. Thanks again!
@@axtell1966wow learned something new! Thanks
I replaced the bearing in my washer and after putting everything back together the tub leaks and it won't stop filling with water. What can I do to correct these new problems?
I would check the tub seal for the leak and the water level pressure switch hose to make sure it is hooked up. You can also post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
A small hole in the tub hose or on the water pump
ki su cua my...!thao tac day du,rat chuyen nghiep!
nguyen tran trong Thanks, hope the video helped with the repair!
Good god this is like working on a car
Good work...........
Thanks! We're glad you found the video helpful.
I tried removing that center nut. Its welded in there. I tried braking it to peaces and still
Penetrating oil was key to my success, but I also needed a spanner wrench (similar to the one he used), and a rubber mallet, to pound the crap out of it.
didnt work for me i got a hotpoint top washer it leaked still after replacing the whole tub seal assembly kit, including transmission bearing.any help out there?
I would start with double checking everything. Without knowing what you have, I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
AppliancePartsPros thanks for replying i have a hotpoint washer m# vvsr1070daww..i took it off 4 times to make sure i did everything correctly & still leaks plz help
The reason I suggested the forum is they can go much more into detail than I can here. Any problem with the seal may cause leaks, inner spring missing, transmission shaft corroded/pitted so bad seal will not seat, seal pushed to hard onto transmission damaging the seal, outer tub where the seal sits out of shape so seal will not seal. The techs on the forum can help troubleshoot these things without the limitations we have here forum.appliancepartspros.com/
AppliancePartsPros
Can someone tell me why they call it a Hub Bearing when actually it's only a sleeve there's no ball bearings? I did buy one to change it out, but no way could I get the large nut off....Yes I had the right tool and turning the right way, clockwise.... I also read it's also real hard to get the hub bearing out of the plastic tub, without damaging it..... Then some say it's not the hub bearing (sleeve) that makes the noise it the Bearing in the transmission....
A bearing is, "a part of a machine that bears friction, especially between a rotating part and its housing." They aren't always balls. It can be difficult, but if you have any questions, or you need help diagnosing the part that needs to be replaced, please keep in mind that we do offer free technical advice 7 days a week. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
Thank you so much, that was really helpful. I can't really see why it is called Bearing in the first place. And what could go wrong with it. my washer makes loud noise during spin cycle and followed your instructions and took off what you call Tub Bearing and it ok to me. Can you shed some light on this bearing and what symptoms it should have that indicate it needs to be replaced
A bad bearing can cause a roaring sound during the spin cycle. You would check that for any physical damage, or wear.
@@appliancepartspros Thanks. Just to follow up on the noise. I replaced the Tub bearing, but that did not solve the problem. The roaring noise is still the same during spin cycle. Any suggestions please! By the way, I tried spinning the transmission manually to check the bearing between transmission and motor and did not hear any noise at all
What is your model number?
@@appliancepartspros model number
WWRE6260D0WW
Thank you. If you are still getting the roaring noise after replacing the bearing then you will need to replace the transmission. That part number is WH38X10002. Unfortunately, it is no longer manufactured, so you will need to check around to see if anyone still has some stock left.
I tried to do this repair but getting the hub nut off the shaft was impossible. guess I go to the laundry mat until I can afford a new washer. I will never by another GE again this is the 3 time it has failed.
The hub nuts can get corroded pretty good.
My GE is leaking. Watch it leak under the transmission. Is it because of the hub bearing underneath. And seal on top. Help
Replace all of those items - bearing,seal, split ring, washer.
There was no way the 1 11/16 tub nut would have come off with the spanner wrench (TB123A). If the machine is several years old then that nut will be welded on the spindle with corrosion. I didn't even bother using this wrench. If you have access to a high torque (the highest available) pneumatic impact gun, then this is the way to go. You'll also need the 1 11/16 socket and 3/4 inch drive extensions to get the gun above the top of the tub. The socket does not have to be a deep type. A regular socket will work although the spindle will protrude into the hole where the drive inserts. However, there is still enough drive hole to get good results without slipping. Even with this method the impact wrench was hammering for several minutes. I also had to whack the sides of the nut with a hammer to help break up the corrosion in the threads. Of course, lots of penetrating oil was applied a few days in advance.
I hit this same roadblock. Lots of penetrating oil left overnight, whacked the nut itself as you mentioned, but that thing won't budge. No access to a heavy impact wrench, so I'll keep adding penetrating oil and see if that and time will do the trick.
I got stuck here. I've hammered enough that the rod inside was spinning. I'll just buy a new one.
Should you grease the shaft that goes through the bearing?
Yes
great video but too much work for a G.E washer, I will buy a different machine,I hear speed queen is great
If you decide to give that repair a go, we'll be here to help.
I don't understand , what is wrong with the old tub bearing ? ☺
It's become faulty with use, causing a metal-on-metal noise when washer is running
This is a crazy overcomplicated backwards way of designing an appliance, it would be easier to just go buy another washer at a certain point! Good video regardless, especially in showing all the steps.
If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Has anybody live with the super loud spinning noise, if so how long did the washer last?
I have a super loud spinning noise. Tech said it was the main barring, but it wouldn't pay to fix it. He said the tub will probably crack when prying the bearing out. It didn't look too tough to pry out in this video, but in the comments people say it's really hard. I have a different model, but I have a GE. He said it will start to leak a lot if I keep using it.
I did fix my washing machine and it's still working today and it's been like 3 years.. it end up being the transmission. Reason why the transmission went, water dripping down the shaft because of a leaky tub seal not the bearing that is in the plastic tub. Even though I bought that bearing I call it sleeve I decided not to take it out like you said people say you could crack the plastic tub I agree so that's why I didn't change that bearing... So I just put in a new seal that stopped the leak. At that time I believe I spent $125 for the transmission at one of the appliance stores i search them all out, that was the best deal I could get.... Now that's 3 years ago, so who knows what it is today
Sorry I accidentally sent the post.. I actually have a post out there for 3 years ago explain this in better detail of how I fixed it I'll see if I can find it and send it out to you.
DO YOU GREASE THE BEARING?
Yes. Silicone grease
Fyi there’s a safety sensor that lets the machine know if the lid is open on mine that is wired and prevents you from being able to lift the top off like that, just bang it from the outside in and it’ll come out
hello I have a simpson washing machine it is making a grin sound on spin
Rhonda B Looks like those are an international brand, we do not have any info on them.
Glad to see Weird Al Yankovic found his true calling.
Mi frigidaire está lenta cuando sentrifuga
Good video. However, for me a trip to Home Depot was easier. Mine was nine years old, making some other odd noises when switching between modes.
Sometimes that is the right call. Thank you for the compliment regardless!
That Tub Bearing does not come out with just 2 screwdrivers. I just called these guys, and the rep. on the phone sent me a Tech Sheet & Service Manual, none of which helped. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears!
Haha, those service reps are a joke! One of them told me to blow in the air hose and that will stop the noise during spin cycle...lol! I laughed so hard I thought I was being Punk'd.
I pushed mine ont by tapping the top
What tool
Party knife
What tool are you referring to? There is a putty knife.
@@appliancepartspros thanks sir😀
Why can't you simply put the washer on its side. BTW, most washing machines today are junk. If the bearing fails within 10 years of use then it is junk and the CEO of GE is a crook. A wheel bearing in a car lasts and there is no reason why this bearing should fail.
The bottom of the washer is solid and does not come off!
El Rondo hey man this machine is very good, nowadays we have a new model that is a scam, i dont recommend it, its been giving a hard time to us as technicians and the customers as well.
Machine is less than 5 years old, have already replaced timer, plastic control panel... they were easy, this requires special tools and you have to rebuild the machine...This bearing show not wear out in less than 5 years... time for a new machine, because an estimate to repair was 398.00 and the part is only 14.97.
I'm sorry you haven't had luck with this washer. However, we support multiple different brands, so we'll be happy to help you with the next washer you buy!
Its not a matter of having luck.. its a matter of the cheap garbage sold today that is imported into our country. I can remember when a washing machine would last 20 years and still clean clothing. not today you would be lucky to get 5 years.. and then they want almost as much to replace a $5.00 part , as it cost to buy a new machine.. As to the video above it requires special tools and you have to take the entire machine apart to fix it.. and from what I have seen most people are unable to get the bearing off to replace it.
that's too pro!!! I can't do it by my self for just the tub bearing!!
+Angel Liu You do have to take the washer apart but it is not all that difficult! Hope the video helps you out if you decide to do it!
Angel L. alike the demo. Good
So pretty much take it all apart lol
Sooooo many steps....I would be lost once it's time to put back together.
This can be an in depth repair, if you have any questions you can call us at 1-877-477-7278.
You need to keep that fabric softener dispenser cup attached in one video you dais make sure to have that attached in and the next scene it is pushed back out and rattling in there again like WTF and you don't need a long extension for the agitator coupler that long extension is NOT necessary
Stop commenting this these people know what they are doing
A Zip Tie?......LOL
kayfiat taghyir almukathaf
A lot of work for a crappy washer
Thats not a bearing. Thats a bushing
A bushing is a bearing, but a bearing is not always a bushing.
Yet another reason to only buy Whirlpools.
Are you kidding me...this is not "easy"!!!
Its easy
Are these the steps? Sure. Good luck with that retaining nut. "Penetrating" lubrication.... looooool.
What you see here is a highly produced video. This is is NOT that easy. I get calls each week where these people encourage people to channel the spirit of Bob Vila.
They then round the nut. Get upset. Call me and then get angry because I charge a couple hundred dollars to actually do the job.
This is not a easy fix!