Stout method, I have been doing it here in Mississippi for two years, Last year, everyone's garden burned up in the summer heat, mine did not, I also only had to water about twice all summer during a dry spell in July and August. This year, I am really starting to see the results in the soil under the hay. Stout said, in her book, that the third year is the magic year for the soil improvement so, I am looking forward to next year! BTW you really need another two or three bales of hay on that. It needs to be at least 8" deep. At the end of the season you leave the hay down and let it decompose over winter. It is what helps to make good soil. I added a top dressing of new hay when I put my garden to "bed" for winter last year. Then, in Spring, you pull the hay back to expose the soil to plant or if direct seeding, pull the hay back in a long row to expose a planting row. When the plants get big enough then tuck the hay back up around them.
I use Ruth Stout, last year was my 3rd year on potatoes. We had drought for 2 years now. I’m in arid, windy Montana. I water about 20 minutes weekly, and don’t have to weed. My potato harvest was the best yet. I’m completely sold.
I grow in Texas mostly in a food forest, I lay hey down for all the mentioned reasons but I put it down 12 inches thick. For me it last about six months, breaks down as compost to benefit the soil. I also use older hay not new bails. One last thing is to make sure the hay you use didn't have weed kill put on it because that will really hurt your garden. Like the video.
I live in hot, arid Montana where the wind blows hard. I have used old hay for years. It packs better then straw. I use about 8 inches initially and add over the summer around the plants. Just leave it on during the winter as it breaks down and provides compost . I just push aside where I plant. As the plants come up I pull it next to them and add more old hay. I never remove it. Ruth Stout mulch especially on my potatoes and I use the same bed, they are getting better each year. Have drip, water once weekly and never have to weed. I never remove the mulch.
Smart decision! I'm in Texas, and if you don't mulch, it's bad news for the water bill, and the crop. Why don't you take a regular kitchen spoon and run it down the length under your dripper, and make a half trench? You don't bury it. This way, much of that water won't roll down into the pathway. Then put straw on top. Just sayin'.
shashakeeleh I use netafim techline tubing, and use my "soil roller"(roll of fencing w pvc handle) to push the tubing down into the soil after its first watering. I have noticed this keeps the area moistened well and doesnt create erosion pockets where water has been dripping from above.
I use hay to mulch my garden. I have gotten to know lots of people who have hay, either guys who bale it or horse/cow owners that use it. They all know that I will take any old hay off their hands! They get someone to haul it off for free and I get free mulch! I don't mind moldy hay or otherwise unuseable hay because it it already starting to break down and that is what I want it for.
For my garden, I decided against all hay (for seeds/weeds. . .and then, GrazeOn possibility). I also decided against wood chips (too hard to source in my area). Decided against chop and drop due to slug encouragement. For me. . .it's compost and/or straw in the garden. . .and sawdust in the walkways. Each person will find their wonderful!
Just a note for those who want to mulch with straw/hay: buy seedless, non-sprayed straw 3.00-5.00 a bale (midwest 2019 I buy from farmers direct) vs hay which is more expensive because it has nutrition for livestock. If it's green it's hay & can have seeds of plants you won't want in the garden. Straw is hollow inside and holds water well and you can even plant into the straw bales with a bit of compost in the hole. Once saturated with spring rains (Midwest) you won't have to water much at all, but you need heavier coverage (I'd do 6-12") & weeds pull easily out if they sprout. Your straw will last a year perhaps 2 if you planted into tied bales. Hands down wonderful mulch - I had no issues with slugs but you might have critters staying warm in winter in spent bales (my cat took care of it).
I used plastic once and when I pulled it up the ground was rancid! It stunk so bad! The ground was moldy and slimey, I don't know why anyone would use it.
You found hay!! That's great, I'm using wood chips this year but was thinking how a combination of mulches might benefit the garden, from leaf mulch to wood chips and anything in between that I can find to build up that diversity we need to see in the soil food web. Looking forward to see the progress in your garden this year! Thanks for the post.
I wonder if mulching in and around the gopher cages will allow the pesky creatures to hop over the fences, so to speak. Like you, I have permanent no-till beds and paths on a south facing slope; the beds are 30" wide and most of the paths are 24" inches (some are 30" wide). My paths and beds, however, are bordered with alder sapling logs from my property. I get 16"-18" of rain per year. I usually mulch the annual beds with straw and\or compost, though the perennial beds get compost and wood chip mulch. When possible, I mulch with soiled (pun intended) straw that was previously used in the poultry house, but fresh straw works in a pinch. It composts slowly throughout the growing season, faster if you keep it moist. I usually put wood chips in the paths between beds - they then act like mini-swales, in-soaking water. When the chips compost down, I move the compost to the beds and re-chip them. This means the beds are always growing deeper and taller over time, while the paths remain comparatively lower. The alder log borders help keep the wood chips out of the beds. One caveat with straw (or hay) mulch, as you noted: if your area supports snails or slugs, they will live in your straw mulch. My answer to that is to let my ducks hunt between crops. Hay doesn't *usually* make good mulch unless it is composted - too many seeds - *unless* you want to use those to sow cover crops; alfalfa *is* N-fixing and deep rooted.
I did this one year and it looked great. It kept the slugs and snails at bay too . HOWEVER, we had a heavy rain and the dirt couldn't absorb the water fast enough and the hay floated everywhere! then a few weeks later we had hay sprouts in every crevice of the yard. Be sure to put a layer of landscape tarp or a thick weed barrier underneath the hay to prevent the sprouting.
Also, have you had any problems with the gophers eating the garden? That was my main concern which forced me to do everything in raised beds with chicken wire.
I'm inspired by Dan Kittredge as well recently. A few weeks ago I listened to an entire 9 part workshop on TH-cam, must be 12 hours plus of material. Really awesome stuff. He goes deep into the Science and also metaphysical philosophy, Looking forward to the podcast with Dan.
I'm thinking of putting my chickens on my corn crop when the stalks are about waist high... instead of running cultivators through it my thought is the chickens will graze and scratch the weeds. Anyone have experience with this idea?
Interesting idea. They will jump to get greens, how much foliage they will pick off, I don't know. I don't think they will be big enough to knock the corn over. I think the area of concern is the roots. Try it on a small isolated patch first.
Garden Budget Tip- Save your $15 instead of buying that bail of straw, take some garbage bags, or a large empty can to the feed store, and when your spending your money on chicken feed, ask owner if you can sweep up and take loose straw on floor in their store room. Your doing them a favor as most of them see it, and 99% of the time they say yes, then you get a looser, more flimsy straw that lays down easier, is closer to breaking down into fine mulch, and most of all is FREE. Also, grab all of it you can, and anything over what you need in garden, lay down in chicken area, it really stifles out the stink, and keeps them dry.
If you ever use hay don't ever use coastal bermuda!!!! It will sprout everywhere and you will never get it all out. In Texas it's used to seed the roadsides. Even if it's in the dry hay form. All it needs is a little moisture and it's growing again. I had to move my 20x30 garden because 2 coastal bermuda square bales were put into it. YIKES!!!!!
Howdy !! I just found your channel... are you growing for business or for personal use? I ask because of the rows and amount of vegg. I've started my vegg garden for personal use only but thinking about expanding the vegg garden to sell at a farmer's market. Thanks!
Greetings from the UK! Is this how they avoid using plastic at Neversink Farm? Also, how would you go on running a Jang seeder or a paperpot transplanter through that? Thanks for the vids :)
Nice video! Thanks Diego! Just curious, if you weren't using a seeder,and just broadcasting your seed, or doing strictly transplanting, would you still opt for straw over wood chips? Thanks for all you do! Hope your tomatoes come out wonderful! The straw is really aesthetically pleasing, have to say. Nice work!
Good point, but probably wouldn't change. I don't like the idea of woodchips because they limit your options. If you ever want to do anything that doesn't require woodchips then you have a lot of work ahead. Straw or hay goes away.
Some "organic" growers out there seem to be growing plastic because thats all you see. Another good reason to use an organic mulch is that you are feeding the soil, of course.
Every situation is different. I am using weed fabric atm b/c I have Bermuda grass and after 2 years of trying cardboard & mulch and hand pulling I gave up. I've spent about 30 mins weeding all year this year. This made my life & farming way more enjoyable! I also added compost/worm castings and shredded leaves on the beds before I cover. I love it.
Hi. My garden is sloped like yours. I put the drip tape on the high side. Then my water flows toward the plant and in the ground. Love your videos. I subbed Rick from NC
Shredded straw breaks down faster and is easier to work with, also if you wet it down before you mulch it will adhere to the ground better and keep everything moist. I do this every season and add compost in layers like top dressing to add to nutrients. So far I am having great no dig success.
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation.. 1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this. 2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them. 3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips.
"Hay"is way to general of a term. Alfalfa in particular rarely has seeds in it if the farmer baling it knows what he is doing(which is what your using by the looks of it) And alfalfa is about a 3-2-2 fertilizer, straw is not. Straw is made after a wheat field has been harvested and often has wheat seed from passing through the combine. Also "Grass" hay is usually baled after seed has been combined or there is enough variety of grasses that there will be viable seed in the hay that turns into weeds.
You might already know this as this video is a few years old. It looks like you put down a first cutting alfalfa which is just sun bleached on the outside. I would be cautious as HAY will spread seed, versus STRAW which will not (depending on the time of cutting). OTherwise you may just be adding more weed versus preventing weeds.
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation.. 1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this. 2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them. 3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips.
I can't fathom where I'd get hay where I live. I hope pine bark mulch meets your approval. Costs a bit over $1 per cubic foot. Works for me. You seem angry, or intense. Maybe it's the drought. I know that pisses me off.
hum i'll ask something obvious but why a raised bed if you have to do this vs keep your row at the ground level ? or make your beds at a level sligtly below ground level ? (since you want your water to flow to them ?) It's not a criticism it's a real question, I don't know much (just watch some youtube vid), and it have nothing to do with this vid. I just don't understand the utility of a pathway below the level of the beds and not above to keep the water in the beds
The beds are level with the pathways. There isn't any raised beds. They only appear raised because the whole property is sloping from right to left, so the beds up slope are higher. I wish they were all flat.
I would have mulched much thicker...plastic would never have been a consideration. Somewhat lost here; The wood chips break down relatively quickly. Each yr, as I build better soil, they break down even faster.
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation.. 1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this. 2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them. 3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips. They don't break down that fast here because it is so dry.
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation.. 1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this. 2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them. 3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips.
They're a great way to inoculate your beds and soak up any excess water. I'm not talking about a 4" thick path of wood chips, but a sprinkling throughout each path as another subtle organic amendment that will probably disappear in 12-18 months.
Uhm, That looks like hay. Still better than nothing but you may be looking at weeds. Looked like straw until you broke the bale. ahh should have waited, you knew it was alfalfa.
Props for admitting up front about the misuse of Hay/Straw terminology. But for your own credibility, please be able to accurately describe the raw materials you use. I know this makes me sound like an over sensitive "snow flake," but I must assure you that anyone who knows the difference between the two will readily ridicule every reference you make to either one. Thumbs up for the effort. Keep growing.
Stout method, I have been doing it here in Mississippi for two years, Last year, everyone's garden burned up in the summer heat, mine did not, I also only had to water about twice all summer during a dry spell in July and August. This year, I am really starting to see the results in the soil under the hay. Stout said, in her book, that the third year is the magic year for the soil improvement so, I am looking forward to next year! BTW you really need another two or three bales of hay on that. It needs to be at least 8" deep. At the end of the season you leave the hay down and let it decompose over winter. It is what helps to make good soil. I added a top dressing of new hay when I put my garden to "bed" for winter last year. Then, in Spring, you pull the hay back to expose the soil to plant or if direct seeding, pull the hay back in a long row to expose a planting row. When the plants get big enough then tuck the hay back up around them.
How do you keep the weeds out of the hay.
I use Ruth Stout, last year was my 3rd year on potatoes. We had drought for 2 years now. I’m in arid, windy Montana. I water about 20 minutes weekly, and don’t have to weed. My potato harvest was the best yet. I’m completely sold.
I grow in Texas mostly in a food forest, I lay hey down for all the mentioned reasons but I put it down 12 inches thick. For me it last about six months, breaks down as compost to benefit the soil. I also use older hay not new bails. One last thing is to make sure the hay you use didn't have weed kill put on it because that will really hurt your garden. Like the video.
I live in hot, arid Montana where the wind blows hard. I have used old hay for years. It packs better then straw. I use about 8 inches initially and add over the summer around the plants. Just leave it on during the winter as it breaks down and provides compost . I just push aside where I plant. As the plants come up I pull it next to them and add more old hay. I never remove it.
Ruth Stout mulch especially on my potatoes and I use the same bed, they are getting better each year. Have drip, water once weekly and never have to weed. I never remove the mulch.
Smart decision! I'm in Texas, and if you don't mulch, it's bad news for the water bill, and the crop. Why don't you take a regular kitchen spoon and run it down the length under your dripper, and make a half trench? You don't bury it. This way, much of that water won't roll down into the pathway. Then put straw on top. Just sayin'.
Good idea.
shashakeeleh I use netafim techline tubing, and use my "soil roller"(roll of fencing w pvc handle) to push the tubing down into the soil after its first watering. I have noticed this keeps the area moistened well and doesnt create erosion pockets where water has been dripping from above.
Excellent notion!
I use hay to mulch my garden. I have gotten to know lots of people who have hay, either guys who bale it or horse/cow owners that use it. They all know that I will take any old hay off their hands! They get someone to haul it off for free and I get free mulch! I don't mind moldy hay or otherwise unuseable hay because it it already starting to break down and that is what I want it for.
For my garden, I decided against all hay (for seeds/weeds. . .and then, GrazeOn possibility). I also decided against wood chips (too hard to source in my area). Decided against chop and drop due to slug encouragement. For me. . .it's compost and/or straw in the garden. . .and sawdust in the walkways. Each person will find their wonderful!
I've always used straw (seedless stalks) and not hay (includes the seeds) to keep soil moist and prevent weeds. Nothing better plus it smells awesome.
Here in Western NC I've seen people put cardboard down on the walking path. No weeds.
Just a note for those who want to mulch with straw/hay: buy seedless, non-sprayed straw 3.00-5.00 a bale (midwest 2019 I buy from farmers direct) vs hay which is more expensive because it has nutrition for livestock. If it's green it's hay & can have seeds of plants you won't want in the garden. Straw is hollow inside and holds water well and you can even plant into the straw bales with a bit of compost in the hole. Once saturated with spring rains (Midwest) you won't have to water much at all, but you need heavier coverage (I'd do 6-12") & weeds pull easily out if they sprout. Your straw will last a year perhaps 2 if you planted into tied bales. Hands down wonderful mulch - I had no issues with slugs but you might have critters staying warm in winter in spent bales (my cat took care of it).
07:13 UK we have huge slug and snail issues.Plastic is not pretty but it kinda works!
I used plastic once and when I pulled it up the ground was rancid! It stunk so bad! The ground was moldy and slimey, I don't know why anyone would use it.
You found hay!! That's great, I'm using wood chips this year but was thinking how a combination of mulches might benefit the garden, from leaf mulch to wood chips and anything in between that I can find to build up that diversity we need to see in the soil food web. Looking forward to see the progress in your garden this year! Thanks for the post.
I wonder if mulching in and around the gopher cages will allow the pesky creatures to hop over the fences, so to speak.
Like you, I have permanent no-till beds and paths on a south facing slope; the beds are 30" wide and most of the paths are 24" inches (some are 30" wide). My paths and beds, however, are bordered with alder sapling logs from my property. I get 16"-18" of rain per year.
I usually mulch the annual beds with straw and\or compost, though the perennial beds get compost and wood chip mulch. When possible, I mulch with soiled (pun intended) straw that was previously used in the poultry house, but fresh straw works in a pinch. It composts slowly throughout the growing season, faster if you keep it moist.
I usually put wood chips in the paths between beds - they then act like mini-swales, in-soaking water. When the chips compost down, I move the compost to the beds and re-chip them. This means the beds are always growing deeper and taller over time, while the paths remain comparatively lower. The alder log borders help keep the wood chips out of the beds.
One caveat with straw (or hay) mulch, as you noted: if your area supports snails or slugs, they will live in your straw mulch. My answer to that is to let my ducks hunt between crops.
Hay doesn't *usually* make good mulch unless it is composted - too many seeds - *unless* you want to use those to sow cover crops; alfalfa *is* N-fixing and deep rooted.
Makes sense. I just don't want hard borders on the edges of the beds.
As you said yesterday, context is everything.
I did this one year and it looked great. It kept the slugs and snails at bay too . HOWEVER, we had a heavy rain and the dirt couldn't absorb the water fast enough and the hay floated everywhere! then a few weeks later we had hay sprouts in every crevice of the yard. Be sure to put a layer of landscape tarp or a thick weed barrier underneath the hay to prevent the sprouting.
Also, have you had any problems with the gophers eating the garden? That was my main concern which forced me to do everything in raised beds with chicken wire.
I'm inspired by Dan Kittredge as well recently. A few weeks ago I listened to an entire 9 part workshop on TH-cam, must be 12 hours plus of material. Really awesome stuff. He goes deep into the Science and also metaphysical philosophy, Looking forward to the podcast with Dan.
Cherry Tree Permaculture well you please send me the link to dance workshop apt spraguenursery@yahoo.com. thanks betty
at season end, rake straw into path.
once cover comes up, spread it over them.
or just leave it in the path
Good idea.
I'm thinking of putting my chickens on my corn crop when the stalks are about waist high... instead of running cultivators through it my thought is the chickens will graze and scratch the weeds. Anyone have experience with this idea?
Interesting idea. They will jump to get greens, how much foliage they will pick off, I don't know. I don't think they will be big enough to knock the corn over. I think the area of concern is the roots. Try it on a small isolated patch first.
Garden Budget Tip- Save your $15 instead of buying that bail of straw, take some garbage bags, or a large empty can to the feed store, and when your spending your money on chicken feed, ask owner if you can sweep up and take loose straw on floor in their store room. Your doing them a favor as most of them see it, and 99% of the time they say yes, then you get a looser, more flimsy straw that lays down easier, is closer to breaking down into fine mulch, and most of all is FREE. Also, grab all of it you can, and anything over what you need in garden, lay down in chicken area, it really stifles out the stink, and keeps them dry.
Diego Footer Was there a reason you used alfalfa hay over other kinds of hay?
If you ever use hay don't ever use coastal bermuda!!!! It will sprout everywhere and you will never get it all out. In Texas it's used to seed the roadsides. Even if it's in the dry hay form. All it needs is a little moisture and it's growing again. I had to move my 20x30 garden because 2 coastal bermuda square bales were put into it. YIKES!!!!!
Howdy !! I just found your channel... are you growing for business or for personal use? I ask because of the rows and amount of vegg. I've started my vegg garden for personal use only but thinking about expanding the vegg garden to sell at a farmer's market. Thanks!
I used hay one year and it was loaded with weed seeds. What a nightmare.
firecloud77 use straw rather than hay, no seeds.
Greetings from the UK! Is this how they avoid using plastic at Neversink Farm? Also, how would you go on running a Jang seeder or a paperpot transplanter through that? Thanks for the vids :)
No they don't mulch. You would have to remove the straw completely to get a transplanter or seeder in there.
Nice video! Thanks Diego! Just curious, if you weren't using a seeder,and just broadcasting your seed, or doing strictly transplanting, would you still opt for straw over wood chips? Thanks for all you do! Hope your tomatoes come out wonderful! The straw is really aesthetically pleasing, have to say. Nice work!
Good point, but probably wouldn't change. I don't like the idea of woodchips because they limit your options. If you ever want to do anything that doesn't require woodchips then you have a lot of work ahead. Straw or hay goes away.
Some "organic" growers out there seem to be growing plastic because thats all you see. Another good reason to use an organic mulch is that you are feeding the soil, of course.
Every situation is different. I am using weed fabric atm b/c I have Bermuda grass and after 2 years of trying cardboard & mulch and hand pulling I gave up. I've spent about 30 mins weeding all year this year. This made my life & farming way more enjoyable! I also added compost/worm castings and shredded leaves on the beds before I cover. I love it.
Hi. My garden is sloped like yours. I put the drip tape on the high side. Then my water flows toward the plant and in the ground. Love your videos. I subbed
Rick from NC
Thanks For The Information
in the Philippines they used plastic...this is helpful video.
Shredded straw breaks down faster and is easier to work with, also if you wet it down before you mulch it will adhere to the ground better and keep everything moist. I do this every season and add compost in layers like top dressing to add to nutrients. So far I am having great no dig success.
Ruth. Stout.
Yep. And you can't mulch too heavy with hay :-)
how much is hay per bale where you are ? here in N.C mt. we can buy for $2.00 to $4.00 per bale, depends on seller.
Where I live it's 18$ a bale!
Woodchips bro.....woodchips....nothing but love for you
PolyFarmS Agreed 100%. Straw dries out & hay is full of seeds.
I don't care if stuff sprouts back because the chickens will graze it.
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation..
1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this.
2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them.
3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips.
"Hay"is way to general of a term. Alfalfa in particular rarely has seeds in it if the farmer baling it knows what he is doing(which is what your using by the looks of it) And alfalfa is about a 3-2-2 fertilizer, straw is not. Straw is made after a wheat field has been harvested and often has wheat seed from passing through the combine. Also "Grass" hay is usually baled after seed has been combined or there is enough variety of grasses that there will be viable seed in the hay that turns into weeds.
You might already know this as this video is a few years old. It looks like you put down a first cutting alfalfa which is just sun bleached on the outside. I would be cautious as HAY will spread seed, versus STRAW which will not (depending on the time of cutting). OTherwise you may just be adding more weed versus preventing weeds.
Gardeners are economic survivors, hard work and efficiency, learning to gain productivity, are principles taught by gardening.
Love your work.I would go with wood chips on the path
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation..
1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this.
2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them.
3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips.
I can't fathom where I'd get hay where I live. I hope pine bark mulch meets your approval. Costs a bit over $1 per cubic foot. Works for me. You seem angry, or intense. Maybe it's the drought. I know that pisses me off.
hum i'll ask something obvious but why a raised bed if you have to do this vs keep your row at the ground level ? or make your beds at a level sligtly below ground level ? (since you want your water to flow to them ?)
It's not a criticism it's a real question, I don't know much (just watch some youtube vid), and it have nothing to do with this vid. I just don't understand the utility of a pathway below the level of the beds and not above to keep the water in the beds
The beds are level with the pathways. There isn't any raised beds. They only appear raised because the whole property is sloping from right to left, so the beds up slope are higher. I wish they were all flat.
I would have mulched much thicker...plastic would never have been a consideration. Somewhat lost here; The wood chips break down relatively quickly. Each yr, as I build better soil, they break down even faster.
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation..
1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this.
2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them.
3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips.
They don't break down that fast here because it is so dry.
plastic is a good way to kill weeds, id never use it as permanent mulch.
that straw sorda looks like Alfalfa. It may have alot of viable seeds that are going to irritate you.
Since you're doing permanent beds, definitely throw some woodchip down in the paths.
Thanks. I explained why I am not using wood chips in the video. But here is an expanded explanation..
1. I don't have them and they aren't that easy to come by. See past videos on this.
2. The beds are flat, so there is nothing to keep the wood chips in the path where I want them.
3. I don't want the wood chips in the bed, because I can't run a seeder through wood chips.
They're a great way to inoculate your beds and soak up any excess water. I'm not talking about a 4" thick path of wood chips, but a sprinkling throughout each path as another subtle organic amendment that will probably disappear in 12-18 months.
$15.00? WOW!
Melanie Varela my thoughts exactly.
green in the middle-reminds me of alfalfa hay
It is. I used the wrong term.
Why don't we make mulching with biodegradable particles like paper with 2 years Warranty.??👍👍🙏
Uhm, That looks like hay. Still better than nothing but you may be looking at weeds. Looked like straw until you broke the bale. ahh should have waited, you knew it was alfalfa.
👏👏👏👏👍👍🙏
not nearly enough...put a couple of inches down at least
Props for admitting up front about the misuse of Hay/Straw terminology. But for your own credibility, please be able to accurately describe the raw materials you use. I know this makes me sound like an over sensitive "snow flake," but I must assure you that anyone who knows the difference between the two will readily ridicule every reference you make to either one. Thumbs up for the effort. Keep growing.