Only issue I can see with this is the knurling might dull over time depending on the hardness of the bar and the wire wheel used. A brass wire wheel would probably be a better bet long term.
Hello Basement Brandon, can you help me? Will I be able to get a stronger grip with your method? The handles on my barbell are so used that it has become reallly difficult to maintain a sturdy grip, making the lift in itself a real chore.
Thank you for this! What would you recommend for a cerakote or black zinc coated bars? I have liquid chalk layers in there and was wondering how to clean up those. Thanks.
Hey B, you ever tried messing around with restoring/repainting plates? I have the usual cheap Cap plates and they are of course peeling off. I've been mildly contemplating removing the old paint and putting on a new layer. Any thoughts?
No just a different spot on the bar. Unfortunately the one down side of the bells bare naked bar is the inconsistent knurling (which I made mention of in my review)
Picking out equipment for a home gym was originally going to go completely with rogue for the setup // btw I primarily train for the Olympic lifts, I was going to just get a squat rack however found bells of steel offers a great deal on their barbells and 'residential' power rack also offering nearly the same variety of attachments at a fraction of the price compared to rogue. So I said all that to say this, would you recommend the BoS rack over a squat stand?
Question for ya. I got my rogue order literally like a week and half ago. Is the smooth un-knurled part of the bar suppose to be oxidizing already? That is very unpleasant if thats how bars work.
Kind of off topic, Titan X3 or Rep PR-4000? Rep is about $300 more delivered. Worth it? I should add that I have a ceiling height of 81.5", so a custom fabricated Rogue rack is likely more than I want to spend.
you might find a wire wheel cup version could be faster/more efficient for this because of not having to aim the side of the wheel and all. always love the content
Get a stainless steel bar. At my old house I used to have my gym in the garage and an older bar of mine is bare metal. This was a task every few months. I finally upgraded and bought the rogue Ohio bar in stainless steel. No longer an issue and the knurling is that perfect bare steel feel. At our current home, the gym is in the basement so not a big deal, but my old bare steal bars still need attention every now and then.
Anyone who can answer this please do. I’ve been seriously lifting for about 7-8 months and I have had STrong wrist wraps for that entire time. I have my first meet coming up and need new ones. Most of my gear is SBD but I don’t have there wrist wraps and to anyone who has used both, is there a major difference in stiffness? Will getting them a month before my meet or even closer to the meet throw me off?
Not bad per se, but over time if you let it get really out of hand it becomes more and more difficult to remove in my experience. I also find it dulls the feel of the knurling.
Super fine or fine bronze wool with 3 in 1 oil or a bronze brush will remove rust, chalk easily and provides a protective coating too. It’s also very easy on bar steel too. Pro Tip: After a good power workout always remember to wipe down your shaft with oil.
@@BasementBrandon Just got back from buying a bare steel Boneyard ODL bar from a local guy and he recommended the Hybrid brushes. You talking about the ones that allow you to wrap the brush around the shaft? If so, they have a SS and nylon version, both of which I may cop soon. Let me know! Not many reviews out there. Seems like folks say use to brass for bare steel, but it's up in the air.
@@BasementBrandon Word. Is the stainless steel one really not advisable? Seems camps are divided as far as brass vs stainless steel brushes for bare steel bars.
If the rust gets really bad, soak the bar in vinegar over night. The rust will practically wipe away, but I would do some extra brushing to get any tough spots. Then liberally oil the bar from end to end. Let it sit for a little while then wipe off the excess. Unfortunately, I have to do this quite often at my gym to our bars.
Drew Jonathan dude I used to have lower back pain BEFORE I started deadlifting. So with proper deadlifts you can even fix back pain. But I ain't no doctor...
I don’t know how you find the time. I guess it’s a labour of love. I live on the south coast of England so similar weather to north eastern USA and most of my bars seem ok despite being in a garage with no electrics / detached from the house. My main bar only cost $200 I think I’ll just run it into the ground and buy another in a few years. I admire your dedication to the craft though sir.
![ไลฟ์สุ่ม iPhone 295 บาท... โกงมั้ย?[ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.97 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gdstHEE4UUE/mqdefault.jpg)
You know I'm catching up on lost time and going through a LOT of your old videos. I honestly think you have the best video library on TH-cam, B.
appreciate ya!
Only issue I can see with this is the knurling might dull over time depending on the hardness of the bar and the wire wheel used. A brass wire wheel would probably be a better bet long term.
Def depends on the wire wheel, the drill, and how hard/long you use it!
I avoid both and use just the oil and the nylon brush... I heard that brass is better, but im also afraid of it being too abrasive over the long run
Do they make a nylon wheel?
Ive had the bare steel B & R bar from Rogue for years. Love the feel of bare steel!!!
Right on!
Hello Basement Brandon, can you help me? Will I be able to get a stronger grip with your method? The handles on my barbell are so used that it has become reallly difficult to maintain a sturdy grip, making the lift in itself a real chore.
I'd prob just chalk up or wear straps (or invest in a nice bar if you have a $200-$300 budget.
Daddy Brandon delivered with this one...working the shaft in 12” increments..thats a big ol bar...
Go big or go home!
Gr8 info. You have made me feel guilty with a bit of neglect. I’m just back from Hardware with brush and 3 in 1. About to get cracking. Thanks
Awesome!
Thank you for this! What would you recommend for a cerakote or black zinc coated bars? I have liquid chalk layers in there and was wondering how to clean up those. Thanks.
I was searching for comments explaining this, I picked up some used Ohio Bars and there is chalk for days in there.
Check the video linked in the description box, it shows how I clean my other bars.
Just went with the 3 in 1 oil and a nylon brush on my black zinc bars and they look good as new and feel AMAZING. Bro, you gotta do it.
Thanks, you convinced me to get a stainless steel bar
I love mine!
Hey B, you ever tried messing around with restoring/repainting plates? I have the usual cheap Cap plates and they are of course peeling off. I've been mildly contemplating removing the old paint and putting on a new layer. Any thoughts?
I haven't but have seen a lot of people do so!
@@BasementBrandon yeah I originally saw a lot of that on Iron Archives IG where he restored a lot of old Ivanko and other plates.
have you tried bluing? I wondering how much of a difference it will make, or if I should just bite the bullet and buy a SS bar
Have not.
Kurt Rambis sighting! Excellent for this 40+ year olds memories
Never forget!
I just got a Texas Power Bar, am I right in saying you don't need to tighten anything?
Correct.
was the top of the "volcano" portion of the knurling worn down a bit in the after photo? The surface area seemed larger...
No just a different spot on the bar. Unfortunately the one down side of the bells bare naked bar is the inconsistent knurling (which I made mention of in my review)
Picking out equipment for a home gym was originally going to go completely with rogue for the setup // btw I primarily train for the Olympic lifts, I was going to just get a squat rack however found bells of steel offers a great deal on their barbells and 'residential' power rack also offering nearly the same variety of attachments at a fraction of the price compared to rogue. So I said all that to say this, would you recommend the BoS rack over a squat stand?
You can get a nice setup from BoS for sure, but quality wise, it's a bit of a step down IMO.
Question for ya. I got my rogue order literally like a week and half ago. Is the smooth un-knurled part of the bar suppose to be oxidizing already? That is very unpleasant if thats how bars work.
A lot of that depends on the environment it's in.
@@BasementBrandon In my garage, live in Texas, no AC
Kind of off topic, Titan X3 or Rep PR-4000? Rep is about $300 more delivered. Worth it? I should add that I have a ceiling height of 81.5", so a custom fabricated Rogue rack is likely more than I want to spend.
I think both are great options. I would put Rep slightly above Titan in terms of quality.
Thanks for the insight. Pulling the trigger on Rep... right... now.
Hey Brandon, do you still rate the kabuki powerbar? Noticed you don't use it much anymore
I do, but I've been using my stainless OPB more these days.
Excellent timing! Thanks for this!
Sure thing
Same process for the plate sleeves? I tried something similar on an old Hampton bar but it turned out a kinda sketchy.
I used them on the sleeves as well, worked well.
you might find a wire wheel cup version could be faster/more efficient for this because of not having to aim the side of the wheel and all. always love the content
Good call
How is the stainless steel bar holding up in the garage.
So far so good!
This is basically how I clean my texas power bar. I use a wire wheel on my 4-1/2'' angle grinder though instead. makes quick work of it. Cheers!
Right on!
Is there anything preventative that can be done, like using a dehumidifier?
You can try to control climate and that will delay the process.
Get a stainless steel bar. At my old house I used to have my gym in the garage and an older bar of mine is bare metal. This was a task every few months. I finally upgraded and bought the rogue Ohio bar in stainless steel. No longer an issue and the knurling is that perfect bare steel feel. At our current home, the gym is in the basement so not a big deal, but my old bare steal bars still need attention every now and then.
Anyone who can answer this please do. I’ve been seriously lifting for about 7-8 months and I have had STrong wrist wraps for that entire time. I have my first meet coming up and need new ones. Most of my gear is SBD but I don’t have there wrist wraps and to anyone who has used both, is there a major difference in stiffness? Will getting them a month before my meet or even closer to the meet throw me off?
Why not use the ones you have? SBD have different wraps that offer different stiffness levels.
Oil and a shaft, this is fantastic!!!!!
hey now
You would post a video about cleaning barbells right before I was going to buy supplies to clean my barbells lol
Read your mind.
Have u ever experienced the knurlings get blunt because of too much cleaning?
I have not.
Any advice for cleaning all the skeletons out of our closet?
Find He-Man, he's usually pretty good at dealing with skeletons.
Just curious..is it bad if you leave the oxidization on the bar?
oxidation promotes oxidation. then again, it will take a lot of oxidation... rust for the bar to be useless/
Not bad per se, but over time if you let it get really out of hand it becomes more and more difficult to remove in my experience. I also find it dulls the feel of the knurling.
@@BasementBrandon Thank you! i'll take some time this weekend to work the oxidation out on my rogue bar.
This works great on an older bar of mine. However I am so happy I spent the extra coin and went with the stainless steel version of my Ohio power bar.
Yeah can't beat stainless IMO!
Super fine or fine bronze wool with 3 in 1 oil or a bronze brush will remove rust, chalk easily and provides a protective coating too. It’s also very easy on bar steel too. Pro Tip: After a good power workout always remember to wipe down your shaft with oil.
I've really been liking the new Hybrid brushes.
@@BasementBrandon Just got back from buying a bare steel Boneyard ODL bar from a local guy and he recommended the Hybrid brushes. You talking about the ones that allow you to wrap the brush around the shaft? If so, they have a SS and nylon version, both of which I may cop soon. Let me know! Not many reviews out there. Seems like folks say use to brass for bare steel, but it's up in the air.
@@persistentconsistency I have the nylon one, it's great.
@@BasementBrandon Word. Is the stainless steel one really not advisable? Seems camps are divided as far as brass vs stainless steel brushes for bare steel bars.
@@persistentconsistency I prob wouldn't go SS just b/c it will eat up the bars more
"How to season your bar for cooking"
Candi Soda lol
Need more butter.
Needs more lamb sauce
Sweet results!
Thanks for taking a look!
I've used this method but it seemed to hurt my knurling and make it less aggressive 😥
Could be due to how hard you dig in and also how course/material of the wire wheel.
gonna try these my strongarm bars are starting to go there
Let me know how it goes!
Thank you. I need to clean my bar
Girls love a clean shaft.
2:29 lmao
:)
During my apprenticeship using gloves and open, rotating machinery was not advised
I think for a hand drill that likely wouldn't matter
Great video...thanks.
Thanks for taking a look
If the rust gets really bad, soak the bar in vinegar over night. The rust will practically wipe away, but I would do some extra brushing to get any tough spots. Then liberally oil the bar from end to end. Let it sit for a little while then wipe off the excess. Unfortunately, I have to do this quite often at my gym to our bars.
Vinegar/water soaks do work super well, especially if you're refurbing a bar. I just hope mine don't get to the point where they need one!
@@BasementBrandon I train in non-climate controlled gym. No AC no Heat. All of our bars are rusty. I have to clean the expensive ones monthly.
If I do a deadlift off the ground, with perfect form, what’s the likelihood of having lower back pain?
Drew Jonathan dude I used to have lower back pain BEFORE I started deadlifting. So with proper deadlifts you can even fix back pain. But I ain't no doctor...
none
I don’t know how you find the time. I guess it’s a labour of love.
I live on the south coast of England so similar weather to north eastern USA and most of my bars seem ok despite being in a garage with no electrics / detached from the house.
My main bar only cost $200 I think I’ll just run it into the ground and buy another in a few years.
I admire your dedication to the craft though sir.
It also helps when I go to resell them, get better value if they look new!
brass wire brush is the way to go without scratching up your bar. Using steel wire brush will ruin your bar.
Didn't really care here since dealing with a bare steel bar.
@@BasementBrandon all good. i'm thinking about getting the Texas 29mm power bar but not sure whether it's better to get bare steel or the zinc one.
You had me at shaft :(
Hey now
This method works! I did this to a junkyard rogue Castro bar 1.0 . Looks brand new. Took forever though. i.imgur.com/cgye8lW.jpg
Looks great!
Rambis!!
lol
Maybe next time use a brass wire wheels so you don’t damage the steel
Didn’t damage the steel here