Great stuff mate as usual, I used to use GT85 myself but remember you saying you stopped doing it due to it might affect the seals, at the moment I'm using silicone spray which I've heard is very good and used by a lot of race guys . Silicone grease is also good on piston instead of red rubber but I'm not a great fan of grease on piston due to it attracting dirt . I'll only use the smallest wipe on installation of piston after a full service. Anyway keep it up love this sort of stuff.
It’s interesting that this procedure hasn’t really changed over the decades despite all the other tech advances. I love this bike and it’s going to be a properly sorted one very soon 😊
Good stuff , I bought the least expensive ,aka, cheap, break bleeder that they had online . When you do a truck or car makes it easy, so tried it on my Goldwing and love it , Thanks again Cheers
I started watching this a week ago, got to the bit about washing up liquid having salt in it and went to speak to my chemist father. im back to watch the rest now. He says there isn't salt as such but if the pH isn't neutral then itll corrode metal. So yeah basically the same effect. 😲
As a novice 24 year old sp1, still with it's first owner , I have noticed that this bike has done some track work just by looking at the front tyre, I suggest it has done more track work than road work. Would love to see rear tyre.
Great video! I'm doing basically the same thing with a K1 Gixxer 1000 right now except I've decided to go with K8 G1K forks and L2 G1K Brembo monoblock calipers with some spacers to fit the 320mm disks. EBC HH brake pads are mega!
@@obsession_engineering Interesting. Just searched and I think I may be quite intrigued... Thanks for the recommendation! Woof... Spendy compared to HH though...
And not a sign of a cable tie reefed tight holding the brake lever to the handlebar (overnight) cause you spent the evening cursing/swearing trying to bleed the system after your brakes went spongey in the race and you're out first thing in the morning........ Well done that man Dave!
@@obsession_engineering Missed something indeed! That little bubble thats gonna expand when you are hot into Redgate, the lever has come back and trapped your fingers it's that spongey and your sphincter is 50pence/5pence-ing it while your brain is thinking 'double sumersault and three and a half flips' through the gravel trap....... Bleeding brakes is like a dark art!
I always take the bleed nipple right out at the start of the procedure and put some plumber's PTFE tape on the nipple thread. This has 2 benefits , 1) it stops the air getting back in via the threads and speeds bleeding up and, 2) the PTFE reduces the chance of any galvanic corrosion between the alloy calliper and the steel bleed nipple so when in 2 years time you come to crack the bleed nipple it has a much better chance of actually coming undone rather than shearing off and leaving you with a big problem
Having done this traditionally and with a vacuum tool, I find a big syringe full of fluid pushing up from the caliper very effective too. Have you ever tried this method?
I remember back in my yoof doing the squeeze, open, close, release action for what felt like hours. As I recall there was a device available back then that was a one way valve on a piece of tubing and all you had to do was slowly squeeze and release the lever for a while to acheive airlessness. Is this still a thing and is it not recommended for some reason? Nice video though. A little motorcycle maintenance after a day at work is very zen. Ever read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" by the way? Thoroughly recommend it.
Cheers for your how to video Davey, very informative! A question if you wouldn’t mind giving me some advice. I’ve recently purchased a cbr600rr to use for dry road riding and trackdays. Do you have any advice on best tyres to purchase? There are so many options it’s easy to get overwhelmed reading different opinions! Seems like Dunlop SportSmart TT or Michelin power GP’s get mentioned a lot but wondered if you have any of your own preferences. Cheers and all the best 👍
Davey I see a lot of race bikes have the h configuration brake lines like 1 line coming from master cylinder that splits into 2 one for each Caliper any advantage of using this instead of 2 separate lines ? Cheers
Biggest advantage is space saving. 2 lines from the mc can use up room that might be tight. And they look fancy! Nothing wrong with the 2 line setup if you have space
Please don’t use copper slip on anything aluminium, copper in Copper-slip chemically reacts with aluminium especially with steel components like pad pins and bolts and can seize and gall… use a ceramic, aluminium or nickel anti-seize Copper-slip should only be use on like for like steel components and definitely not on any dissimilar metals 👍
Cheap and simple vacuum tool for a DIY guy like me is a syringe attached to the bleeder hose. Works like a charm. 😊
Have done this job many times myself but still watching this video because there's always something I could pick up!
Great stuff mate as usual, I used to use GT85 myself but remember you saying you stopped doing it due to it might affect the seals, at the moment I'm using silicone spray which I've heard is very good and used by a lot of race guys . Silicone grease is also good on piston instead of red rubber but I'm not a great fan of grease on piston due to it attracting dirt . I'll only use the smallest wipe on installation of piston after a full service.
Anyway keep it up love this sort of stuff.
I started to use Silicone spray after cleaning them and pushing back in. Does the trick.
Really enjoy this series Dave. Thanks for sharing
With us.
Great advice Dave, always clean my brakes as per your vlog every couple of months regardless of mileage if for nothing else to sooth my OCD! 😀
I now have the HEL black braided hoses on my FZ6-S2, best thing I did to my bike 😊
It’s interesting that this procedure hasn’t really changed over the decades despite all the other tech advances. I love this bike and it’s going to be a properly sorted one very soon 😊
Thank you Dave for another great video! Hope all is well from rainy California 😞
Good stuff , I bought the least expensive ,aka, cheap, break bleeder that they had online . When you do a truck or car makes it easy, so tried it on my Goldwing and love it , Thanks again Cheers
Legend Dave! Another complete informative video by the professional ⭐️
Insomnia sorted 😂, great videos always wanted one, in 6 months do a what it’s like to live with a SP1
Nice, I swapped some SP1 calipers + master cylinder onto my RVF400. This all looks very familiar :p
I started watching this a week ago, got to the bit about washing up liquid having salt in it and went to speak to my chemist father. im back to watch the rest now. He says there isn't salt as such but if the pH isn't neutral then itll corrode metal. So yeah basically the same effect. 😲
I'm happy to be corrected 😁
Nice one ☘️☘️ from northern Ireland,,I ran the R1 calipers with no plates and then fitted them as the rattle was a pain,,👍👍👍
Pad retaining springs are fitted for a reason 😂😂
Thanks for the vid, Davros 👌🏼
Good evening Dave….👍👌🇮🇲
As a novice 24 year old sp1, still with it's first owner , I have noticed that this bike has done some track work just by looking at the front tyre, I suggest it has done more track work than road work. Would love to see rear tyre.
I rode it at Blyton when I first got it. As far as I'm aware that was it's first track action. Doesn't take long to make a tyre look 'used' 😂
Another cracking video mate
THANK YOU. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Great video! I'm doing basically the same thing with a K1 Gixxer 1000 right now except I've decided to go with K8 G1K forks and L2 G1K Brembo monoblock calipers with some spacers to fit the 320mm disks. EBC HH brake pads are mega!
If you like the HH, try the epfa or even the gpfax
@@obsession_engineering Interesting. Just searched and I think I may be quite intrigued... Thanks for the recommendation! Woof... Spendy compared to HH though...
@@Andrei_K1G1K epfa are worth the extra money for street use, gpfax are great on track so great!!!
Thank you, great video's!
excellent, thank you.
And not a sign of a cable tie reefed tight holding the brake lever to the handlebar (overnight) cause you spent the evening cursing/swearing trying to bleed the system after your brakes went spongey in the race and you're out first thing in the morning........
Well done that man Dave!
If you need a cable tie to fix brakes, you've probably missed something 😂
@@obsession_engineering Missed something indeed! That little bubble thats gonna expand when you are hot into Redgate, the lever has come back and trapped your fingers it's that spongey and your sphincter is 50pence/5pence-ing it while your brain is thinking 'double sumersault and three and a half flips' through the gravel trap.......
Bleeding brakes is like a dark art!
Defo a dark art. It never goes as easily as demonstrated.🤷♀️
@@martinowl Too true unless you are a dark art master with years under your belt, knowing all the tricks, like our Wizard Dave!
I always take the bleed nipple right out at the start of the procedure and put some plumber's PTFE tape on the nipple thread. This has 2 benefits , 1) it stops the air getting back in via the threads and speeds bleeding up and, 2) the PTFE reduces the chance of any galvanic corrosion between the alloy calliper and the steel bleed nipple so when in 2 years time you come to crack the bleed nipple it has a much better chance of actually coming undone rather than shearing off and leaving you with a big problem
Having done this traditionally and with a vacuum tool, I find a big syringe full of fluid pushing up from the caliper very effective too. Have you ever tried this method?
I haven't, but do hear it works well
I remember back in my yoof doing the squeeze, open, close, release action for what felt like hours. As I recall there was a device available back then that was a one way valve on a piece of tubing and all you had to do was slowly squeeze and release the lever for a while to acheive airlessness. Is this still a thing and is it not recommended for some reason? Nice video though. A little motorcycle maintenance after a day at work is very zen. Ever read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" by the way? Thoroughly recommend it.
I got halfway through 'zen' and was more confused than educated 😂
The non return valve system does still work, the vacuum is just faster
@@obsession_engineering Yeah. Took me 3 goes to get through it!🤯
Cheers for your how to video Davey, very informative! A question if you wouldn’t mind giving me some advice. I’ve recently purchased a cbr600rr to use for dry road riding and trackdays. Do you have any advice on best tyres to purchase? There are so many options it’s easy to get overwhelmed reading different opinions! Seems like Dunlop SportSmart TT or Michelin power GP’s get mentioned a lot but wondered if you have any of your own preferences. Cheers and all the best 👍
I've run the Dunlop TT on a couple of bikes, great on a dry day. Definitely a good trackday tyre
Cheers all the best 👍
Cool blessed lol still not as flash as the @l1racing one I lent you at brands on pathway bike lol
Nothing in my life is as posh as that!
I clean brake pistons with a flat shoe lace...
Now that's a stroke of genius!!
🧿
Davey I see a lot of race bikes have the h configuration brake lines like 1 line coming from master cylinder that splits into 2 one for each Caliper any advantage of using this instead of 2 separate lines ? Cheers
Biggest advantage is space saving. 2 lines from the mc can use up room that might be tight. And they look fancy!
Nothing wrong with the 2 line setup if you have space
@@obsession_engineering cheers davey 👍
@@obsession_engineering would you say the one line from m/c into 2 to calipers have the same lever feel as a straight 2 line set up?
Please don’t use copper slip on anything aluminium, copper in Copper-slip chemically reacts with aluminium especially with steel components like pad pins and bolts and can seize and gall… use a ceramic, aluminium or nickel anti-seize
Copper-slip should only be use on like for like steel components and definitely not on any dissimilar metals 👍
Very useful to know, I'll definitely take that onboard