About a year ago I picked up a used Epiphone Les Paul that had some significant tuning stability issues. After hearing about the String Butler I figured it couldn’t hurt to try it before looking at other issues. I put it on the guitar when I changed strings and was very pleased to find the tuning stability was greatly improved. Less expensive and labour intensive than replacing the tuners or working on the nut, the String Butler made a big difference. I have no problem recommending this piece of kit.
Ive installed this on 2 of my les Paul’s and they stay in tune so much better than without. I had trouble with the G & D strings staying tuned, the Butler eliminated the problem. I can bend notes all day long ( I actually did this ) and it stayed in tune. Well worth the money.
Right. I was careful to look into the String Butler only after I had eliminated other possible causes of tuning issues for my LP, and then, after I still could not get my D and G strings to maintain steady tuning, researched the String Butler as one of the solutions to this problem. No single solution to anything is a panacea; always a good idea to ask questions, research, get advice, and find out which solutions seem to work best for the most players in your situation. Thanks for the review, anyway.
I have half a dozen guitars with Bigsbys and they all had tuning problems. I installed a string butler on one and it worked great. I've since put 'em on the other five and it's made a huge difference. They work.
I had tuning issues with my Gibson SG. Its a 2007 standard. I've had it this whole time. A couple of years ago when I started teaching I noticed the SG would not stay in tune to save my life. I had been swapping usage so I hadn't noticed it was that bad. I just recently refurbished it myself and it never goes out of tune. I considered a string butler. All I did was replace my Klusons with Grovers. I hate how the answer is so simple sometimes.
Crap machineheads are always 99% the root cause of tuning issues or in the particular case of the Fender Jaguar, the bridge body design in total... What on earth were they thinking as that thing actually moves about when you whammy it and never comes back to the same place twice. Although I think since then engineers have solved the problem, so bye bye in and out of tune indie music that bands like Sonic Youth have made their whole sound on. But they (sonic youth) use them too now and swear by them as without it that guitar is detuned after your first dive bomb. As is the stratocaster with its floating bridge setup relying on a very fine line balance of string tension pulling one ways and springs pulling the other to hold something perfectly in place in space to a point where a fraction of a millimetre either side will detune the string by as much as the precious intonation will the first time you whammy that... So there are many things that can cause de tuning But if your guitar isn't a Fender or has an experimental whammy bar or is a hardtailed guitar like a gibson then you can bet its the tuners. BTW my favourite whammy system of all and the one that works the ultimate best is the Hagstrom one, with the Bigsby coming a close second but taking up way too much real estate to be practical or good looking on a lot of guitars.
The string moves straight across the nut with the string butler reducing burrs and lockup in the nut. Without the string butler the string has to move at a sideways angle across the nut. This thing is brilliant.
I've had the string butler on my les paul for about a year now and just realized by watching your video that my strings were not on the roller. Had you not done the close up test I would probably had never noticed. Thanks
A very big plus for your video is that you took the time to mention the diferences between the three versions of the string butler.I have seen other youtube videos of the string butler but none have taken the time to talk about the difference between the three string butler versions.
@@guitar-academy nice demonstration! Check out Tru glide from db instruments. Supposedly does the same thing but very minimalistic design compared to string butler. Do a video on it if you can.
@@guitar-academy great. The truglide does not seem to have any rollers where the string makes contact . How important do you think that really is? Those mini rotating drums essential?
I installed mine pointing the "wrong" way on purpose. (Consequently, I did not have to remove any tuner nuts). But because, there is an advantage to this method in that the angle around each roller is less (more obtuse) because the rollers are closer to the nut (farther from the tuning posts) than if it were installed per instructions. The string butler is held in position simply by the string tension. It doesn't seem to "float" around on the head stock. It hasn't moved since it's original position that it found when I installed it. More importantly, it works great I haven't had any tuning issues. Before the string butler I had tuning posts interfering with adjacent strings (Sloppy head design/build)! It's an Eastman AR372 and has a very large head with large distances between tuners. But now it tunes easily AND stays in tune. Well worth the money / time to install vs. the ongoing frustration of tuning issues.
That's interesting . . I recently reversed the installation on one of my acoustic guitars and it improved the function. It juse goes to show experimentation can be a good thing 😊😃
I have a 30 year old Gibson Les Paul that was restored last year but still had the tuning issues from before. I recently bought the String Butler V3 and it looks to have fixed the problem. The G string was regularly going out of tune but has now stabilized and is holding much better. I can’t remember the last time I wasn’t constantly adjusting it. Thanks for all the helpful information. I wouldn’t have known anything about this if not for videos like yours.
Thank you very much . . I guess one of the good things about putting it on an instrument like that (that will increase in value) is it can be removed without leaving marks. 😃
04/28/2023: This was the best informative video for this product, per the 3-warnings, the fit, and do I really need it, if I have no tuning problems. Thank you Mate, Cheers for Orlando, Florida USA
I've had one on my Epiphone Les Paul for years. The stability was pretty before installing it and now it is very solid. Even after installing a Duesenberg Les Trem and using the vibrato bar it is nice and reliable.
Great review. TY for your efforts and time to explain the pros and cons. I've installed a String Butler on both my Epiphone FlameKat with Bigsby Tremelo and Gibson Custom L5-S with Stetsbar Tremelo. On the Gibson I removed the "wings" that go around the tuning pegs as they were not needed after drilling a hole at the point of the Butler and securing it to the screw that holds the truss rod cover. I exchanged several messages with Butler and he suggested foam tape and/or 3M command strips to help secure the String Butler. I found that works fine and believe it will not hurt the finish. I find the String Butler works very well on both guitars. I posted photos on the String Butler Facebook page so you can see the Butler on the Gibson Custom L5-S.
Thanks for the feedback . . That sounds like a neat and professional looking fitting. I must admit I've taken the wings off the one I use on my Washburn acoustic and it looks a lot nicer (and of course does the job) . . 😊
For the D-G strings on my Gibsons, I use a Fender staple string tree and bushing. Long screw through the center truss rod cover hole and the job's a good 'un. Had them laying around so $0. Helps some. Makes the guitar feel a little better with less tension in the nut.
I’ve wondered if this thing would work, now I know, thanks. I agree the 4 tabs would make me crazy & id have to trim them also which would be no big deal. Very good review, thanks.
I put one on my Epiphone Les Paul Custom, and it's really improved tuning stability. Prior to installing this, I would need to tune the guitar 4 or 5 times while playing for an hour. Now I check tune before I play (which is usually spot on from the day before) and don't touch it afterward. Well worth the money if you have tuning issues.
Thank you very much 😊😃 . . I've modified one for another guitar so it fits under the washers around the tuners and it looks like it was made that way. 😊
Waiting for my String Butler to arrive. I will be installing it on a Les Paul upon which I just installed a Bigsby B7. Roller bridge is a must for these, and the String Butler looked like the final piece to make for a perfect Bigsby install. Thanks for the video.
I own three of these great invention. A good way of centering the Butler is to tighten strings G and D before tightening the nuts on the E tuning heads. A little bit of lubricant on the rollers cant hurt either.
Perhaps putting a drop of oil on the srting butlers rollers would ensure it working longer and increase its sensitivity, would be good for long term use especially in coastal areas where there is more moisture and Salt in the air so it doesnt rust and pit. Thanks for a great and informative video
That grinding of was the first thing I thought of when the video has come to installing the butler. And yes again you thought of that too, which i had hoped for. Otherwise I would surely commend on that LOL.
I've fitted a string butler to my guitar an LTD EC-10 and it's a massive improvement over the original configuration, you can reverse the fitting of the string butler, that is to say it can be fitted 180 Degrees from how you have demonstrated, this is if you have sufficient room from the truss rod cover; I think that they even mention this in the fitting instructions.
The binding and "over-shooting" tendency when tuning is a issue of the slots in the nut, not just the tuners themselves. You probably already know this, but for the sake of those reading the comments, there you go.
A very comprehensive review, and I'm sure it works as far as you have described it. I do, however, see at least 3 reasons not to get one. First, the issue of break angle (up/down) simply doesn't seem to have that much of an effect. Alan Carruth has written about this at length and his research suggests that, for both saddle and nut, the difference is minimal provided their is sufficient downward pressure to transmit string vibrations sufficiently and define the beginning and end points of the strings prcisely. Second, the break angle (side to side) can certainly be a problem, but a lot of companies cut the string slots at a slight angle to account for this, and any handmaker will do this of you ask, or a guitar tech will cut you a nut with this adjustment for a lot less than the price of a string butler. Finally, lots of handmakers and some companies design their headstocks so that the strings pass over the nut without any side/side angle. The telltale sign is that the head is tapered away from the nut (all pedal steel guitars which have standard heads are made like this). Even budget company Seagull has this feature, although the angle is not completely elimiated on their guitars. I have guitars by makers Nigel Thornbory and John McQuarrie (AKA Northwood), neither of which have any side/side angle at all. Hoaving said all that, I also have several guitars with standard pegheads, and have never had the problem the butler is supposed to fix, and I play a lot in altered tunings and string bends. Of course, I'm only experienced with acoustics. It may be a boon for electric players where the bends are a lot bigger. In summary, I think you presented a very balanced and honest review of a product which seems to be an effective, expensive solution to a problem which maybe affects a tiny minority of players.
Thanks for doing this review. That said, I feel like some of your tuning stability issue is due to how you wrapped the strings onto the posts after you stuck them through the post holes. Have you tried other common methods of wrapping the strings around the post and making them winch down on themselves to “lock” them in?
Why do you say that? You don't think the string is being pulled through the hole, do you? More turns is more turns to settle and longer being unstable doing it.
@@richsackett3423 Not neccesarily. An additional turn on the post (say a total of 2 on the bass strings) will increase the friction against the post and minimise slippage. The extra turns are under greater tension (provided they are would flat to the post) and will therefore stretch very quickly, and yes i do notice, from experience, that these extra turns do help stability.
I play mainly Fenders so I don't have a need for a String Butler, but I did find your video very interesting and excellently filmed and demonstrated. Kind of reminded me of Open University programs from the 1980s - and that's a good thing, no shouting, no "What's up guys! Hit the bell, like and subscribe" histrionics. Saying that, I will subscribe now, cheers!
You should purchase the Music Nomad Peg-Winder = No slipping. I think this device Does what it's supposed to-do. Thankfully, I play a Suhr & Taylor and have no tuning issues. I like the rolling bridge-saddles. Always use Nut sauce to lubricate: nut, saddles & all string contact points. Nice demo & information.
great video, i also like the idea of the string passing through a radius on the roller, this will remove the strain on the string at a single point, and instead distribute any angular force along the entire radius of the roller, so i think that, even though it appears to have a larger break angle, it may actually be smaller, as it needs to be considered the angle from where it exits the roller and travels to the peg, not from where it enters the roller.. [addition.. wont be the entire radius, just the length of the arc along the roller, on which the string travels, doh.. i can still see it, just cant mathematical describe it] ofc i could always be wrong, illness has made a mockery of my critical thinking capacity.. so hopefully someone reading can confirm/refute/correct my thinking? regards
Great observation. I tend to be way to detailed in my thinking also but didn't pick-up on that fact. You should be able to take string at a 90 deg angle and still have less friction than the angle thru the nut.
These work. The objective is to move the break angle forward of the nut so no string bind. I have v2 installed on 3 guitars; 1 Gretsch and 2 LP's all with Bigsbys and roller saddles. I feel this is when these work best.
Hello, viewers , on this butler, It’s been out along time now. I venture a guess , because I wanted one but never got around to it. On my Gibson like tail pieces I do the wrap around the tail. It seems to help the tension on the bridge. I imagine it gives more sustain. I like not putting pressure on the nut. This I’m sure it does. What else it does I’m not sure. I’ll watch the rest to find out alittle more. Well better tuning is good, I agree.
If you want smooth tuning and stable tuning, the real option is to dress the nut with proper nut files so the grooves are smooth and profiled to the string. The sound is usually improved too because the strings do not 'sing' in the nut slots. There's a bit of a black art to it, it's not difficult but there is a learning curve and no two instruments are the same, and the files are about £100 per set.
I had to oil the rollers to get it (a knockoff) to work on my Les Paul, but now I can do big bends on the G without having to retune. I still lube the nut.
I put one one on my 2009 Les Paul that has an issue when is isn’t being played. The product works. I was surprised at how it effects tone and feel of the guitar. Not saying the result is bad, just not seeing anyone selling-reviewing this product mention this fact.
weird . . I think the reason nobody mentions the change in sound is because for most people it doesn't happen and there is no way it can effect the feel (apart from making the head a little heavier). Are you sure you didn't change strings or do something else at the same time that effected your guitar ? ?
I orded one of them looks like it would work i do like rollers for the strings i have them on my saddles now with this it should take care of the tunning problems
Very interesting but in light of the fact that i don't have tuning issues with my guitars i won't be buying one. One tip for smooth tuning is when changing strings rub some graphite (from a pencil) into the grooves on the nut
I've been working on a technique of curving my nut slots. I've been working with another tech and with the right files and patient techniques, you can 'arch" a slot to match up with the tuner. I must add that I trim the thickness of the nut to about 1/8" and slope the back. There's about a 1/16th point of contact and my depths are no more than half the thickness of the string. It's works absolutely 100% of the time. You'll end up modifying every guitar you own and never go back. Nut problems disappear and you get a better open tone with added sustain
Oh, and I add a mixture of Vaseline and graphite to each slot. You can also use deoxit, pencil shavings, silicone spray, beeswax, etc. Just enough to coat under and around the contact point.
Thank you very much . . I bought the bridge off eBay but I can't find the seller anymore. Perhaps a search on eBay for a roller bridge will find the same product from a different seller 😊😃
Great close up camera work! There's a lot of guitars where strings will bind where the string pass other tuning machines on the guitar. Considering this for an Eastman AR503CE. I am concerned that the extra material under the 1st and 6th string tuning machine washer will be a problem. Not sure if there will be enough threads for the nut, with the higher nut. Think I need to find a way to check before ordering. You end up with less post for the string to wrap around on? Not sure I like the idea of adding weight to the headstock. Seems minor changes seem to change the sound.
No I would drill for these either. The holes offer are an optional mounting method for guitars where the method I used wont work, for example vintage tuners which aren't bolted down at the top. 😊
A really nice idea. It might save string breakages up at the nut. Might eliminate or push head-section string resonance way above the playing frequencies. I do wonder about balance with the extra weight on the neck end. On the other hand the extra mass of the head might give extra sustain, (if you want it of course.) An alloy version could solve that. Is it possible that the lower tension might case the string to move inside the nut during heavy playing? I do agree about a tiny amount of lubrication on the roller.
Mounting it the other redirection will fix break angle. Probably enough clearance & you could remove truss cover or just a screw if needed. Taller washer? You can certainly see images of such placements on google. If you are joining the modern world to fix tuning I'd suggest getting get a proper compensated nut too.
Mounting in the other direction is how you fit them on acoustic guitars with no truss rod cover. It works correctly as it is so I see no advantage in creating work and making the truss rod inaccessible. 🤔
Good review. That's a good point on the angled nut slots. I looked at getting a String Butler for one of my Gibson's, but I ended up getting some Gotoh locking machine heads for £60 instead, mainly for aesthetics. I'd definitely say go for the String Butler for straight nut slots, if you're on a tighter budget.
At what website ? the string butler official website puts them on the same way as me www.string-butler.com You only but them on acoustic guitars the way you describe. Electric guitars and guitars with truss rod covers are put on the way I put this one . .
Has it fixed tuning issues long term? I see the strings gently turning the rollers and I see how well it fits but my question remains. Does it fix whatever tuning issues you had?
Yes . . the tuning was sticking. So you could turn the machine heads and nothing would happen and then it would suddenly snap past the where I wanted it to be. Now it moves smoothly into tune as I demonstrated . .
I couldn't help but notice that you only have a couple winds around the post Not sure if it matters but I like to have 3 to 4 myself Seems to work for me and don't have any issues Good demo 😊👍
Normally I would do the same but because it's been a demo guitar and the strings have had to be re fitted, they've just ended up that way . . I didn't want to put new strings on until I was sure I wasn't going to have to take them off again . . 🙂
It is easy to make the nut angeled with a needle file. Just a little rounding in the rear side of it is all that's needed. The angle will then be less steep that on this s.b. And it's for free :)
You have about 1 to 1 and a half tuner winds less on each string than I do and I thought I didn’t have enough. Do you cover this point in another video?
That's probably more because with the string butler in place it needs a little more string and I put the originals back on. I don't cover it in any specific video but I will in the future after your question . . 🙂
The thing you never said is if you actually experienced better tuning stability. You might even have a Gibson with a Vibrola and are hoping this will increase its usefulness. I already replaced the stock bridge with a Stewmac roller bridge and it seemed to help somewhat and at the least stopped the bridge from shifting the way it had been. I also replaced the stock Grovers (Ihate Grovers) with Gotoh toumbstone machine heads too. I realize the Vibrola is useless for hard/ deep use. I wish someone made an easy zero fret for Gibson. I would think it improves things but am not sure.
The guitar always had good tuning stability, it was getting it in tune in the first place that was the issue, and as I demonstrated tuning the guitar because way easier. (it works well) 🙂
scruffy indeed, also the finish of the base when compared to your roller bridge and pickups leaves a lot to be desired ,the tooling marks on the rollers dont seem to be a factor. just my opinion but the money they spent on logo should go into better base finish , after all id only put it on an often played instrument . but thats me ..great video Thanks Best Wishes
Good and valid points . . but just to give the benefit of the doubt, look at the size of my finger . . I filmed this in extreme close up . . (Waynes World style, LOL ) 🙂
Your tuners have a lot of play, an upgrade would be in place too. I find the Harley Benton locking tuners excellent for the money (Jin-Ho brand Korea) FWIW.
@@guitar-academy Well I get your point. I mean I have tuners that have loose posts, but once they are fastened and tightened they appear solid, but the post still have a bad connection in the housing and that means bad transfer of vibration and possibly poor tuning accuracy FWIW
Interesting, can you obtain the rollers or the whole attachment in brass. Why? I am assuming most of the contact tension is now on the roller instead of the bone nut hence this may change the tone and possibly the vibration traveling through the bone nut into the neck. Just thinking out side the square!..
No . . all the lateral tension is still on the nut so all the resonance is being transferred into the neck. That's why the rollers move up and down easily, so they don't effect the lateral tension. Good question . . .
I suppose on some guitars it might affect truss rod access (I have one that has the first tuners are close to the nut).... Also are the rollers prone to rattle and is lube favourable? Otherwise these look quite useful.
I didn't lube (as you could probably see) but it wouldn't do any harm. The rollers don't rattle because the pressure of the strings keeps them in place, but it's something I'll watch out for. 🙂
So if you're Toni Iommi or playing in a Black Sabbath cover band do you need a String Geezer Butler then?...Asking for a friend, I'm here all week... By the way totally agree with the tabs comment at the end, some modification needed there to tidy it up but that is often the case with one size fits all mods on anything be it guitars, cars or whatever... Also Never ever seen a nut slotted like that, other way round so the slots are sort of doing a string butler thing, i.e pointing the string more towards the machine head (looking down from top of nut) | / / \ \ |
a better question still . . if you're friend is a tribute to Toni Iommi does he need rubber/plastic fingertips ? ? The angled nut slots are very rare, but someone out there has probably bought a second hand guitar with one on without realizing it. Thanks for the comments 🙂🙂
That's why in 1979 I designed the straight pull peghead PRS, Schecter, and everybody else copied. Image guitars, Peter MAX Baranet, built it for me, but also displayed it in his Hollywood shop...and just about everyone copied it.
Why would I use one of these? I have my actual, human butler, who was hired for his perfect pitch, stand by my head stock and constantly tune my guitar as I play. For certain guitars I have a second, actual human butler who deals with any intonation issues. Can this thing also act as a virtual expression pedal for all of my pedals? When my intonation butler isn't busy with intonation duties, all I have to do is kick him in the ribs, in coded kick combinations that tell him which pedal, knob and parameter change. Thanks for the video. Now I know if I ever give my butlers time off from butling to go to family funerals or a vacation, I'll know what to do.
![🎤 ไปกันต่อออ! จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.2] (1/2) เพลงของใครจึ้งสุดน้าา 💓🎤 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mLI_K0sAS4o/mqdefault.jpg)
About a year ago I picked up a used Epiphone Les Paul that had some significant tuning stability issues. After hearing about the String Butler I figured it couldn’t hurt to try it before looking at other issues. I put it on the guitar when I changed strings and was very pleased to find the tuning stability was greatly improved. Less expensive and labour intensive than replacing the tuners or working on the nut, the String Butler made a big difference. I have no problem recommending this piece of kit.
Yes . . it's far easier than a new nut and the massive advantage is that anyone can fit one and then remove it later if you want . . 🙂🙂
Ive installed this on 2 of my les Paul’s and they stay in tune so much better than without. I had trouble with the G & D strings staying tuned, the Butler eliminated the problem. I can bend notes all day long ( I actually did this ) and it stayed in tune. Well worth the money.
good feedback . . 🙂
Right. I was careful to look into the String Butler only after I had eliminated other possible causes of tuning issues for my LP, and then, after I still could not get my D and G strings to maintain steady tuning, researched the String Butler as one of the solutions to this problem. No single solution to anything is a panacea; always a good idea to ask questions, research, get advice, and find out which solutions seem to work best for the most players in your situation. Thanks for the review, anyway.
I have half a dozen guitars with Bigsbys and they all had tuning problems. I installed a string butler on one and it worked great. I've since put 'em on the other five and it's made a huge difference. They work.
Yes they do 🙂🙂
I had tuning issues with my Gibson SG. Its a 2007 standard. I've had it this whole time. A couple of years ago when I started teaching I noticed the SG would not stay in tune to save my life. I had been swapping usage so I hadn't noticed it was that bad. I just recently refurbished it myself and it never goes out of tune. I considered a string butler. All I did was replace my Klusons with Grovers. I hate how the answer is so simple sometimes.
The answer can be simple but not obvious . . great when you get it sorted though . . 🙂
Crap machineheads are always 99% the root cause of tuning issues or in the particular case of the Fender Jaguar, the bridge body design in total...
What on earth were they thinking as that thing actually moves about when you whammy it and never comes back to the same place twice.
Although I think since then engineers have solved the problem, so bye bye in and out of tune indie music that bands like Sonic Youth have made their whole sound on. But they (sonic youth) use them too now and swear by them as without it that guitar is detuned after your first dive bomb.
As is the stratocaster with its floating bridge setup relying on a very fine line balance of string tension pulling one ways and springs pulling the other to hold something perfectly in place in space to a point where a fraction of a millimetre either side will detune the string by as much as the precious intonation will the first time you whammy that...
So there are many things that can cause de tuning
But if your guitar isn't a Fender or has an experimental whammy bar or is a hardtailed guitar like a gibson then you can bet its the tuners.
BTW my favourite whammy system of all and the one that works the ultimate best is the Hagstrom one, with the Bigsby coming a close second but taking up way too much real estate to be practical or good looking on a lot of guitars.
The string moves straight across the nut with the string butler reducing burrs and lockup in the nut. Without the string butler the string has to move at a sideways angle across the nut. This thing is brilliant.
It is . . 🙂
I've had the string butler on my les paul for about a year now and just realized by watching your video that my strings were not on the roller. Had you not done the close up test I would probably had never noticed. Thanks
Glad I helped . . It's easily enough done . . 🙂
If you put all the strings on first before you tighten the tuner nuts it automatically centralises itself.
Good tip . . . thanks 🙂
A very big plus for your video is that you took the time to mention the diferences between the three versions of the string butler.I have seen other youtube videos of the string butler but none have taken the time to talk about the difference between the three string butler versions.
Thank you . . I'm glad the video was useful . . 😊
I have one on my Les Paul and it works a treat.
🙂
@@guitar-academy nice demonstration! Check out Tru glide from db instruments. Supposedly does the same thing but very minimalistic design compared to string butler. Do a video on it if you can.
@@allboutthemojo Interesting . . . They're out of stock at the moment, but it fits in with the sort of thing I review so I'll get hold of one. 🙂
@@guitar-academy great. The truglide does not seem to have any rollers where the string makes contact . How important do you think that really is? Those mini rotating drums essential?
@@allboutthemojo Honestly until I get one to test I can't tell you. I thought the same thing as you though, so it will be an interesting test. 🙂🙂
I installed mine pointing the "wrong" way on purpose. (Consequently, I did not have to remove any tuner nuts). But because, there is an advantage to this method in that the angle around each roller is less (more obtuse) because the rollers are closer to the nut (farther from the tuning posts) than if it were installed per instructions. The string butler is held in position simply by the string tension. It doesn't seem to "float" around on the head stock. It hasn't moved since it's original position that it found when I installed it. More importantly, it works great I haven't had any tuning issues. Before the string butler I had tuning posts interfering with adjacent strings (Sloppy head design/build)! It's an Eastman AR372 and has a very large head with large distances between tuners. But now it tunes easily AND stays in tune. Well worth the money / time to install vs. the ongoing frustration of tuning issues.
That's interesting . . I recently reversed the installation on one of my acoustic guitars and it improved the function. It juse goes to show experimentation can be a good thing 😊😃
I have a 30 year old Gibson Les Paul that was restored last year but still had the tuning issues from before. I recently bought the String Butler V3 and it looks to have fixed the problem. The G string was regularly going out of tune but has now stabilized and is holding much better. I can’t remember the last time I wasn’t constantly adjusting it. Thanks for all the helpful information. I wouldn’t have known anything about this if not for videos like yours.
Thank you very much . . I guess one of the good things about putting it on an instrument like that (that will increase in value) is it can be removed without leaving marks. 😃
04/28/2023: This was the best informative video for this product, per the 3-warnings, the fit, and do I really need it, if I have no tuning problems. Thank you Mate, Cheers for Orlando, Florida USA
Thank you very much . . nice to here from you here in Wales, UK 😊😃
I've had one on my Epiphone Les Paul for years. The stability was pretty before installing it and now it is very solid. Even after installing a Duesenberg Les Trem and using the vibrato bar it is nice and reliable.
That's great to hear . . 😊
Great review. TY for your efforts and time to explain the pros and cons. I've installed a String Butler on both my Epiphone FlameKat with Bigsby Tremelo and Gibson Custom L5-S with Stetsbar Tremelo. On the Gibson I removed the "wings" that go around the tuning pegs as they were not needed after drilling a hole at the point of the Butler and securing it to the screw that holds the truss rod cover. I exchanged several messages with Butler and he suggested foam tape and/or 3M command strips to help secure the String Butler. I found that works fine and believe it will not hurt the finish.
I find the String Butler works very well on both guitars.
I posted photos on the String Butler Facebook page so you can see the Butler on the Gibson Custom L5-S.
Thanks for the feedback . . That sounds like a neat and professional looking fitting. I must admit I've taken the wings off the one I use on my Washburn acoustic and it looks a lot nicer (and of course does the job) . . 😊
For the D-G strings on my Gibsons, I use a Fender staple string tree and bushing. Long screw through the center truss rod cover hole and the job's a good 'un. Had them laying around so $0. Helps some. Makes the guitar feel a little better with less tension in the nut.
Good tip . . 🙂🙂
This works!! I installed it on my Les Paul and it's worth it. Got mine on eBay with an authorized seller. Buy it!!
Oh, have to check this out!
That's how I got this one . . Ebay.
I’ve wondered if this thing would work, now I know, thanks. I agree the 4 tabs would make me crazy & id have to trim them also which would be no big deal. Very good review, thanks.
No problem! Thank you very much . . 🙂
I put one on my Epiphone Les Paul Custom, and it's really improved tuning stability. Prior to installing this, I would need to tune the guitar 4 or 5 times while playing for an hour. Now I check tune before I play (which is usually spot on from the day before) and don't touch it afterward. Well worth the money if you have tuning issues.
Nice one . . 🙂
Thanks for a well thought-out video and tests. This is very convincing.I agree about modifying it to fit nicely inside the binding.
Thank you very much 😊😃 . . I've modified one for another guitar so it fits under the washers around the tuners and it looks like it was made that way. 😊
Waiting for my String Butler to arrive. I will be installing it on a Les Paul upon which I just installed a Bigsby B7. Roller bridge is a must for these, and the String Butler looked like the final piece to make for a perfect Bigsby install. Thanks for the video.
Sounds great! thank you 🙂
I have String butlers on guitars and really like them. Thanks for sharing !!
Thank you for watching . . 🙂
I own three of these great invention. A good way of centering the Butler is to tighten strings G and D before tightening the nuts on the E tuning heads. A little bit of lubricant on the rollers cant hurt either.
Good tips . . 🙂
String Butler and a graph tech nut on my Lester, and zero tuning problems.
🙂
Perhaps putting a drop of oil on the srting butlers rollers would ensure it working longer and increase its sensitivity, would be good for long term use especially in coastal areas where there is more moisture and Salt in the air so it doesnt rust and pit. Thanks for a great and informative video
Good tip . . I live 200 yards from the sea and 20 feet from a river, perhaps I should do that . . 🙂
Dry graphite would be the answer as any wet lubricant will bind eventually and need to be cleaned out of the roller
Great camera work
Thank you very much ! 🙂
That grinding of was the first thing I thought of when the video has come to installing the butler. And yes again you thought of that too, which i had hoped for. Otherwise I would surely commend on that LOL.
great minds and all that 🙂
@@guitar-academy Maybe yes Hahaha
Best review of this item yet ,thank 3
Thank you very much . . ☺🙂
I've fitted a string butler to my guitar an LTD EC-10 and it's a massive improvement over the original configuration, you can reverse the fitting of the string butler, that is to say it can be fitted 180 Degrees from how you have demonstrated, this is if you have sufficient room from the truss rod cover; I think that they even mention this in the fitting instructions.
Yes, they recommend fitting it that way to acoustic guitars because fewer acoustic guitars have truss rod covers 🙂
The binding and "over-shooting" tendency when tuning is a issue of the slots in the nut, not just the tuners themselves. You probably already know this, but for the sake of those reading the comments, there you go.
Good feedback . . Yes, I can safely say the tuners have nothing to do with the issue on this guitar . . 🙂
looks to me like the nut slots are too deep
A very comprehensive review, and I'm sure it works as far as you have described it. I do, however, see at least 3 reasons not to get one. First, the issue of break angle (up/down) simply doesn't seem to have that much of an effect. Alan Carruth has written about this at length and his research suggests that, for both saddle and nut, the difference is minimal provided their is sufficient downward pressure to transmit string vibrations sufficiently and define the beginning and end points of the strings prcisely. Second, the break angle (side to side) can certainly be a problem, but a lot of companies cut the string slots at a slight angle to account for this, and any handmaker will do this of you ask, or a guitar tech will cut you a nut with this adjustment for a lot less than the price of a string butler. Finally, lots of handmakers and some companies design their headstocks so that the strings pass over the nut without any side/side angle. The telltale sign is that the head is tapered away from the nut (all pedal steel guitars which have standard heads are made like this). Even budget company Seagull has this feature, although the angle is not completely elimiated on their guitars. I have guitars by makers Nigel Thornbory and John McQuarrie (AKA Northwood), neither of which have any side/side angle at all. Hoaving said all that, I also have several guitars with standard pegheads, and have never had the problem the butler is supposed to fix, and I play a lot in altered tunings and string bends. Of course, I'm only experienced with acoustics. It may be a boon for electric players where the bends are a lot bigger. In summary, I think you presented a very balanced and honest review of a product which seems to be an effective, expensive solution to a problem which maybe affects a tiny minority of players.
Thanks for doing this review. That said, I feel like some of your tuning stability issue is due to how you wrapped the strings onto the posts after you stuck them through the post holes. Have you tried other common methods of wrapping the strings around the post and making them winch down on themselves to “lock” them in?
A very good and widely informative video about a very good product (if you have a tuning problem).
Glad you liked it! 🙂🙂
Very well done video mate. Funny thing is I play bass and I still watched the entire video. Good show. Cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it, Maybe I've converted you from the dark side . . . LOL 😂🤣
Ideally an extra turn on your post would also help tuning stability, but a good review.
Why do you say that? You don't think the string is being pulled through the hole, do you? More turns is more turns to settle and longer being unstable doing it.
@@richsackett3423 Not neccesarily. An additional turn on the post (say a total of 2 on the bass strings) will increase the friction against the post and minimise slippage. The extra turns are under greater tension (provided they are would flat to the post) and will therefore stretch very quickly, and yes i do notice, from experience, that these extra turns do help stability.
I have an acoustic with some issues on the D string. As neat as this device is, I think just working on the nut a bit would be the better option.
Yes, it would definitely be a cheaper option 😊
I play mainly Fenders so I don't have a need for a String Butler, but I did find your video very interesting and excellently filmed and demonstrated. Kind of reminded me of Open University programs from the 1980s - and that's a good thing, no shouting, no "What's up guys! Hit the bell, like and subscribe" histrionics. Saying that, I will subscribe now, cheers!
WOW . . . thank you very much 😊😃
Very precise & informative review!
Thank you kindly! 😊😀
You should purchase the Music Nomad Peg-Winder = No slipping. I think this device Does what it's supposed to-do. Thankfully, I play a Suhr & Taylor and have no tuning issues. I like the rolling bridge-saddles. Always use Nut sauce to lubricate: nut, saddles & all string contact points. Nice demo & information.
Thanks, I check out the Music Nomad Peg-Winder 🙂
I have no idea what Nut Sauce is, but I've always rubbed a pencil lead (graphite) on the slots in the nut to lubricate them. Works like a charm.
Clever idea. Thanks for reviewing it.
No problem! thank you very much for watching 😊😃
If u have pushed in bushings, they have adapter kits for them. No modifications needed.
Yes, they do do an adapter . . 🙂
Great product! I have one on my Gretsch G2622T along with a roller bridge....no problems.
Very nice! 🙂
My 5622T is better with a roller bridge but I'll take your advice on the butler; thanks.
One thing that is often needed, is to tighten the nuts on the tuners, and sometimes the screws on the tuning heads.
great video, i also like the idea of the string passing through a radius on the roller, this will remove the strain on the string at a single point, and instead distribute any angular force along the entire radius of the roller, so i think that, even though it appears to have a larger break angle, it may actually be smaller, as it needs to be considered the angle from where it exits the roller and travels to the peg, not from where it enters the roller..
[addition.. wont be the entire radius, just the length of the arc along the roller, on which the string travels, doh.. i can still see it, just cant mathematical describe it]
ofc i could always be wrong, illness has made a mockery of my critical thinking capacity.. so hopefully someone reading can confirm/refute/correct my thinking? regards
Great observation. I tend to be way to detailed in my thinking also but didn't pick-up on that fact. You should be able to take string at a 90 deg angle and still have less friction than the angle thru the nut.
These work. The objective is to move the break angle forward of the nut so no string bind. I have v2 installed on 3 guitars; 1 Gretsch and 2 LP's all with Bigsbys and roller saddles. I feel this is when these work best.
There is no denying it has worked really well on this guitar . . I am going to try a troublesome acoustic I have next . .
Hello, viewers , on this butler, It’s been out along time now. I venture a guess , because I wanted one but never got around to it. On my Gibson like tail pieces I do the wrap around the tail. It seems to help the tension on the bridge. I imagine it gives more sustain. I like not putting pressure on the nut. This I’m sure it does. What else it does I’m not sure. I’ll watch the rest to find out alittle more. Well better tuning is good, I agree.
Made one myself, works great, don't know about actual string butler, but idea itself works.
wow . . I'm impressed . . 🙂
If you want smooth tuning and stable tuning, the real option is to dress the nut with proper nut files so the grooves are smooth and profiled to the string. The sound is usually improved too because the strings do not 'sing' in the nut slots. There's a bit of a black art to it, it's not difficult but there is a learning curve and no two instruments are the same, and the files are about £100 per set.
I had to oil the rollers to get it (a knockoff) to work on my Les Paul, but now I can do big bends on the G without having to retune. I still lube the nut.
A bit of lube or graphite helps a lot . . 😊
The radius at the break angle occurs is important.
I absolutely love your reviews!!👍🏼
Thank you so much! that's really nice of you 🙂🙂
Very well done video. All bases covered. Best Sring Butler review.
Thanks a lot 😊
I put one one on my 2009 Les Paul that has an issue when is isn’t being played. The product works. I was surprised at how it effects tone and feel of the guitar. Not saying the result is bad, just not seeing anyone selling-reviewing this product mention this fact.
weird . . I think the reason nobody mentions the change in sound is because for most people it doesn't happen and there is no way it can effect the feel (apart from making the head a little heavier). Are you sure you didn't change strings or do something else at the same time that effected your guitar ? ?
Superb review. Thank you for this.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you very much 🙂🙂
I orded one of them looks like it would work i do like rollers for the strings i have them on my saddles now with this it should take care of the tunning problems
I like rollers too, especially on older style tremolo systems. Hopefully your tuning problems will be history 😊
Very interesting but in light of the fact that i don't have tuning issues with my guitars i won't be buying one. One tip for smooth tuning is when changing strings rub some graphite (from a pencil) into the grooves on the nut
Yes it's amazing how well this works . . good tip 🙂
That's too old school.
I've had alot of black nuts.
Works great.
I've been working on a technique of curving my nut slots. I've been working with another tech and with the right files and patient techniques, you can 'arch" a slot to match up with the tuner. I must add that I trim the thickness of the nut to about 1/8" and slope the back. There's about a 1/16th point of contact and my depths are no more than half the thickness of the string. It's works absolutely 100% of the time. You'll end up modifying every guitar you own and never go back. Nut problems disappear and you get a better open tone with added sustain
Oh, and I add a mixture of Vaseline and graphite to each slot. You can also use deoxit, pencil shavings, silicone spray, beeswax, etc. Just enough to coat under and around the contact point.
I've no tuning issue with my Les Paul, but that break angle will eventually damage the nut slots
I hadn't thought about that, but quite possibly.
Excellent video, especially with those break angle graphics and close ups ! Can I ask where you found
that aftermarket Tune O Matic roller bridge?
Thank you very much . . I bought the bridge off eBay but I can't find the seller anymore. Perhaps a search on eBay for a roller bridge will find the same product from a different seller 😊😃
@@guitar-academy Cheers, appreciate that lightning fast reply. :
@@steveb7714 No problem . . it was just chance I was on the computer 🤔
With how monotone you sound I honestly thought you didn't like it. Nice surprise at the end haha
lol . . it kept you watching . . 🙂
Sold! Great video!
Awesome! Thank you! 😊😀
Great close up camera work! There's a lot of guitars where strings will bind where the string pass other tuning machines on the guitar. Considering this for an Eastman AR503CE. I am concerned that the extra material under the 1st and 6th string tuning machine washer will be a problem. Not sure if there will be enough threads for the nut, with the higher nut. Think I need to find a way to check before ordering. You end up with less post for the string to wrap around on? Not sure I like the idea of adding weight to the headstock. Seems minor changes seem to change the sound.
I need something like this for a Kramer Banana headstock.
I hope you find something . . . 🤔
I found this very interesting and learned alot. Many thanks for your time and effort. 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it! thanks 🙂
Thanks for the excellent video. I see holes for screws. Should you use these? I wouldn’t want to drill into my headstock.
No I would drill for these either. The holes offer are an optional mounting method for guitars where the method I used wont work, for example vintage tuners which aren't bolted down at the top. 😊
I have a String Butler on my ES-335. It works as advertised, at least on my guitar.
Yes . . it definitely works . . 🙂
I put it on my 175, supreme, and junior. Next up, my gretschs and SJ 200 acoustic.
Excellent demo and review.
Thank you kindly! 😊😊
I used to just file the nut slots at an angle towards the tuners then use a pencil in the slots to coat it with graphite
A really nice idea. It might save string breakages up at the nut. Might eliminate or push head-section string resonance way above the playing frequencies. I do wonder about balance with the extra weight on the neck end. On the other hand the extra mass of the head might give extra sustain, (if you want it of course.) An alloy version could solve that. Is it possible that the lower tension might case the string to move inside the nut during heavy playing? I do agree about a tiny amount of lubrication on the roller.
The String Butler is only 30 grams so it is very minimal.
Very nice guitar! Always wanted an ES style guitar but never got the chance as there was more appealing designs for me at the time.
That was a cheep one, but still really good quality . . 🙂
SUPERB job
Thank you very much 😊
Excellent video
Thank you very much! 🙂
Mounting it the other redirection will fix break angle. Probably enough clearance & you could remove truss cover or just a screw if needed. Taller washer? You can certainly see images of such placements on google. If you are joining the modern world to fix tuning I'd suggest getting get a proper compensated nut too.
Mounting in the other direction is how you fit them on acoustic guitars with no truss rod cover. It works correctly as it is so I see no advantage in creating work and making the truss rod inaccessible. 🤔
Good review. That's a good point on the angled nut slots. I looked at getting a String Butler for one of my Gibson's, but I ended up getting some Gotoh locking machine heads for £60 instead, mainly for aesthetics. I'd definitely say go for the String Butler for straight nut slots, if you're on a tighter budget.
Thank for your feedback . . 🙂
Just looked at the website and you put it on the opposite way they did. The website has the V pointing towards the nut.
At what website ? the string butler official website puts them on the same way as me www.string-butler.com You only but them on acoustic guitars the way you describe. Electric guitars and guitars with truss rod covers are put on the way I put this one . .
@@guitar-academy You are correct. The images were acoustic guitars. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Great review. Peace
@@senseirich No problem . . I've actually got one order to go on an acoustic guitar to see if it fits and works as well . . 🙂
Gibson should really just redesign their Headstocks. Think I’m going to have to get one of these for my 336
I think because the big guitar names use the headstock shape as part of there trade mark its hard to change . . 🤔
I just removed the nut and replaced it with locking one on my lp.
That's interesting what sort of tuning system are you using ?
Has it fixed tuning issues long term? I see the strings gently turning the rollers and I see how well it fits but my question remains. Does it fix whatever tuning issues you had?
Yes . . the tuning was sticking. So you could turn the machine heads and nothing would happen and then it would suddenly snap past the where I wanted it to be. Now it moves smoothly into tune as I demonstrated . .
Lude is all you need
I couldn't help but notice that you only have a couple winds around the post Not sure if it matters but I like to have 3 to 4 myself Seems to work for me and don't have any issues Good demo 😊👍
Normally I would do the same but because it's been a demo guitar and the strings have had to be re fitted, they've just ended up that way . . I didn't want to put new strings on until I was sure I wasn't going to have to take them off again . . 🙂
Put a couple black marks on the rollers also and you will see the rollers moving much clearer...I like the product though...
I'll try that, but I need a new marker first . . the ink was running out. 🙂
Very informative. Thanks for the tips.
Glad it was helpful! thank you 🙂
It is easy to make the nut angeled with a needle file. Just a little rounding in the rear side of it is all that's needed. The angle will then be less steep that on this s.b. And it's for free :)
You have about 1 to 1 and a half tuner winds less on each string than I do and I thought I didn’t have enough. Do you cover this point in another video?
That's probably more because with the string butler in place it needs a little more string and I put the originals back on.
I don't cover it in any specific video but I will in the future after your question . . 🙂
Are those plastic washers come with it? For me I would put a thin padding on the center too to avoid marring the headstock..
Yes the plastic washers do come with it . . good idea, anything to protect the headstock is good 😊
@@guitar-academy yeah I saw in the other vid of yours between v2 & v3..😁
You can get the same effect by installing a string retainer on the truss rod cover.
good tip . .
Locking tuners would help!
Not with a sticking nut . . but yes they are good for tuning stability . . 🙂
The thing you never said is if you actually experienced better tuning stability. You might even have a Gibson with a Vibrola and are hoping this will increase its usefulness. I already replaced the stock bridge with a Stewmac roller bridge and it seemed to help somewhat and at the least stopped the bridge from shifting the way it had been. I also replaced the stock Grovers (Ihate Grovers) with Gotoh toumbstone machine heads too. I realize the Vibrola is useless for hard/ deep use. I wish someone made an easy zero fret for Gibson. I would think it improves things but am not sure.
The guitar always had good tuning stability, it was getting it in tune in the first place that was the issue, and as I demonstrated tuning the guitar because way easier. (it works well) 🙂
Did it improve tuning stability when using the vibrato arm?
I never had a problem with that, my problem was getting it in tune in the first place. But the vibrato arm is staying pretty stable . . 🙂
Thanks!
thank you 😊
scruffy indeed, also the finish of the base when compared to your roller bridge and pickups leaves a lot to be desired ,the tooling marks on the rollers dont seem to be a factor. just my opinion but the money they spent on logo should go into better base finish , after all id only put it on an often played instrument . but thats me ..great video Thanks Best Wishes
Good and valid points . . but just to give the benefit of the doubt, look at the size of my finger . . I filmed this in extreme close up . . (Waynes World style, LOL ) 🙂
An outstanding & very informative video that has earned you a like & a sub, well done :-)
Thank you very much! 🙂🙂
Don’t know if you need one, but mine damned sure works.
😊😊
Thorough and thoughtful, as you'd expect from a northerner...
Thank you . . . 😊
Your tuners have a lot of play, an upgrade would be in place too. I find the Harley Benton locking tuners excellent for the money (Jin-Ho brand Korea) FWIW.
They may seem loose in the video, but they definitely aren't, but because they're 20 years old the gold is starting to ware off . .
@@guitar-academy Well I get your point. I mean I have tuners that have loose posts, but once they are fastened and tightened they appear solid, but the post still have a bad connection in the housing and that means bad transfer of vibration and possibly poor tuning accuracy FWIW
I think you can also flip them
Yes, they recommend them flipped on acoustic guitars without truss rod covers . . 🙂
Interesting, can you obtain the rollers or the whole attachment in brass. Why? I am assuming most of the contact tension is now on the roller instead of the bone nut hence this may change the tone and possibly the vibration traveling through the bone nut into the neck. Just thinking out side the square!..
No . . all the lateral tension is still on the nut so all the resonance is being transferred into the neck. That's why the rollers move up and down easily, so they don't effect the lateral tension. Good question . . .
Thanks for your reply. I thougjt i put it out there. I like all your vidoes all my axes are master builds.
I suppose on some guitars it might affect truss rod access (I have one that has the first tuners are close to the nut).... Also are the rollers prone to rattle and is lube favourable? Otherwise these look quite useful.
I didn't lube (as you could probably see) but it wouldn't do any harm. The rollers don't rattle because the pressure of the strings keeps them in place, but it's something I'll watch out for. 🙂
So if you're Toni Iommi or playing in a Black Sabbath cover band do you need a String Geezer Butler then?...Asking for a friend, I'm here all week...
By the way totally agree with the tabs comment at the end, some modification needed there to tidy it up but that is often the case with one size fits all mods on anything be it guitars, cars or whatever...
Also Never ever seen a nut slotted like that, other way round so the slots are sort of doing a string butler thing, i.e pointing the string more towards the machine head
(looking down from top of nut) | / / \ \ |
a better question still . . if you're friend is a tribute to Toni Iommi does he need rubber/plastic fingertips ? ?
The angled nut slots are very rare, but someone out there has probably bought a second hand guitar with one on without realizing it.
Thanks for the comments 🙂🙂
I got one when they first came out, worked like a charm wish I had thought of it first LOL
yeah . . It would be a great thing to own the patent on . .
That's why I purchased a Squier acoustic. Dead straight string pull.
good choice, that's thinking ahead . . 🙂
That's why in 1979 I designed the straight pull peghead PRS, Schecter, and everybody else copied. Image guitars, Peter MAX Baranet, built it for me, but also displayed it in his Hollywood shop...and just about everyone copied it.
Why would I use one of these? I have my actual, human butler, who was hired for his perfect pitch, stand by my head stock and constantly tune my guitar as I play. For certain guitars I have a second, actual human butler who deals with any intonation issues.
Can this thing also act as a virtual expression pedal for all of my pedals? When my intonation butler isn't busy with intonation duties, all I have to do is kick him in the ribs, in coded kick combinations that tell him which pedal, knob and parameter change.
Thanks for the video. Now I know if I ever give my butlers time off from butling to go to family funerals or a vacation, I'll know what to do.