EP15 IC Reballing Without Solder Paste/Balls | Perfect Hand Reballing Forever
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- On todays episode of The Art of Repair, Justin shows a hand reballing technique that could end up being very useful in a tight situation.
Original Method shared by Zaini
FB | / ifixxit13
IG | / ifixxit13
★ Find all the tools I use on my website! ★ HTTP://SHOP.ARTOF.REPAIR ★
If you are looking to purchase new tools for your shop, please consider supporting the Art of Repairs' new tool venture to help fund my repair shop world tour! Yours could be the next shop I visit!
The Art of Repair only travels where invited, to invite Justin to your shop during his travels please fill out the following form. forms.gle/6YJR...
And if you filled out the travel visit form previously, don't worry. I may be contacting you soon!
★ Got comments or Ideas?
★ Leave me a comment down below!
★ Shoot me an email Justin@artof.repair
★ You can text me too! 520-222-8089
There were a few remarks on differing ball size.
I think, if you do sanding and reheating a couple of times, the balls should be of even size/diameter. This is because you sand away everything that is higher than the stencil. And with every time you do the sanding and reheating process, more balls won´t get sanded any more. As soon as there is no ball being sanded any more, you have the absolutely perfect height and diameter. The only thing you should look for, is that you sand evenly and don´t create an indentation.
You nailed the technique on the head, while yes, there were one or two that were not perfect after examination, this can also easily be fixed. Its just a little back and fourth with it till its correct, but one of the best ideas when your in a pinch.
Nice work! Hand reballing requires a patience that I lack despite being a fairly patient person, haha.
Also, while "solder fumes" are disgusting and bad for your lungs/health, they contain zero lead. This is a common and massive misconception about soldering. It's entirely the flux fumes as lead cannot vaporize anywhere near the temp your iron/hot air can get. It's not even close so don't eat the solder, wash your hands/wear gloves and you're ok with regard to lead. The smoke is burning flux, be it extra applied or burning from the core of flux applied within most solder. Again, that *does* contain many nasty chemicals so absolutely have an extraction setup of some kind.
Wow this is excelent way of reballing without a stencil or solder balls , really inovative idea in repair ... great stuff really ...
What’s the point if you’re going to use a stencil eventually?!
Solder fumes are not lead, it is technically flux fumes. Great video though :)
still terrible for your body
Yes but lead creates fumes at 500°C which is why most soldering irons max out at 480°C.
Wait if you need a stencil to do this method then why wouldnt you just use the stencil for the first step also. Am i missing something? If you need a stencil to do the nonstencil method isnt that the same as doing it with a stencil?
No solder balls/ paste
Great work! Agree with your part about the difference between just doing the job and trying to do it on camera while explaining lol. Keep it up bud!
Awesome video!!!
New to the channel, thank you so much for this. Amazing and love the quality and content! keep it up.
my way - apply flux, make big ball from solder wire, apply solder from 2mm above board using big ball. 2 min method.
How exactly? By using the same big ball to maker smaller ones? Show us a video
Nice to know! Thanks Justin!
I appreciate all the positive comments bro!
Awesome, Justin. Thank you!
Appreciate the view my dude!
cool video man, came here from bro zaini. subscribed :D
Nice!!!
Nice video buddy n this is not just an average video n it's think different type. Keep it up n thx for sharing ur knowledge
Thanks Justin
Nice one!!!
doesn't heating so many times that chip destroying it???
Great work!
Thank you
Hi. What soldering iron and tip did you use?
What if , now don't kill me, but would it be an idea that if when you put the stencil on the first time you could add flux and sweep it with some solder then sand it?
I don't understand, was he adding solder in the first 12 minutes or taking it off with the soldering iron. Was that solder wire or some sort of flux?
Running a blade over the stencil is quicker and won't destroy a stencil like sandpaper will, also use a wider tip and make life easier on yourself
Cool technique!
Hand sanding on a 2400 grit fine sandpaper cures all, even on 1x1 mm devices CSP'S.
Necessary especially when you reinstall smaller CSP's on daughter cards and LFC'S . Cheers
Hi Justin, I tried this technique but the solder doesnt want to stick to all pads 😞...what am I doing wrong
Solder will stick to whatever is hot. Could be you are trying to attach solder to cold pads. As an experiment if the soldering iron is not hot you cannot add solder to it. Similarly if the pad is not hot it cannot melt and attach the solder to it. Practice on a scrap piece. Heat the pad first then apply the solder to the heated pad, once enough solder is applied lift the soldering iron.
What I do in this situation is to preheat the chip, run through all the pads with solder, put a stencil on top, then grab a huge blob of solder and run through all the pads again through the stencil.
Pakai plat jugak...igat handal sagat
What are you spraying on the chip with the spray bottle?
Just an air blower =) I use 99%iso and an acid brush to clean the chip. The only other thing to touch the chip, chemical wise, is flux.
try wet/dry paper 1000 or 1500 grit ;)
It's good man ...the spray you used for ic chip what is the name please and any picture please
I don't bother with the sandpaper, I just shave my balls with an x-acto knife (across the top of the stencil obviously). Shave, reheat , repeat once or twice. Doesn't fuck up my stencils, and it's quicker
does this work with smaller pitch packages?
It does, and I am working on a new method as we speak to do smaller pitched ICs, so stay tuned!
What is that tool you used to apply the flux
Back in the day I used dip style flux, to me it was easier just to dip the solder into the flux and go for gold. Iv moved on to the syringe style dispensing since.
I think a safety razor blade would have been a better way than sanding as it wont destroy the stencil.
I thought that a stencil was unavailable?
I think it was a case of no solder paste/ balls
14:28 I saw someone do it with a razor blade
lol@psa... it's not the lead that's the cause derp, it's the flux, and rosin, and the lead itself isn't gassing off. The main reason you use a filter, again, isn't because of the lead, but because of the corrosive nature of the flux.
Yes, a majority of what your breathing is the flux fumes, absolutely. But be aware, lead exposure is measured in the microgram. Lead itself is very dense. Meaning the particles are beyond microscopic. You are 100% breathing in lead. If your job is doing this 12 hours a day for most of the week. Then lead can end up being your major long term factor. Also, there is a difference between doing a one off solder joint, and reworking older oxidized joints. When your reworking older oxidized joints, especially if you are realloying them. They produce micro dross, as opposed to the large amounts of dross you would find on a manufacturing floor. This in itself also contains lead, and will make itself a home in your lungs. Thank you for your response. I feel like the best responses i get on here are the ones that make me think for a moment and question myself. So thank you. I hope you keep watching the channel!
painfull?
Ipbox v2 work until today bro? Becasuse i use before and get error 40.. how about you?
Benny Suryawan ipbox2 is not cloud based, mine works fine. Error 40 on what the box or the phone after install?
Before iphone is normal, i try to replace nand with the new one. But get error 40, mybe i not correct to reball and put in back ... but ipbox is fine yah, because @gsmhosting, many user get issues error 40/4013... :(
Are you using a test jig to test your nand prior to resoldering it?
TheArtofRepair disk test on ipbox? Yes asbolutly,, but if i put in back, always getting error 40, but i keep trying.
You need to test to board with a hard drive test jig. This is a 100% necessary step. You can use either
www.aliexpress.com/item/7-in-1-HDD-hard-disk-test-fixture-stand-For-iphone-4-4S-5-5S-5C/32667189206.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.QyNrL6
or you can use a disposable test strip.
www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-lot-WL-LZWLKJ-LG60-B-for-LGA52-LGA60-Socket-for-iphone-for-ipad-Nand-Flash/32713028005.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.QyNrL6
The deal is, you gotta test it before install to make sure it is good to go and not damaged. This also allows you to test the device to make sure its still functional after your removal of the chip.
Cool video but I don't see this working in any repair situations, especially since the nowaday BGA ICs are usually not as free spaced as the IC you were working with, this looks very similar to the nand flash IC on the iphone series, and you could never apply this technique on any other ICs in a phone due to that.
Reballing should not take that long I can do it in less than 2 minutes. As for his comments regarding fumes and the health hazards of lead, it is the flux that is harmful due to the solvents that are added to essentially pine sap, which is the main ingredient. The more flux you use the more harmful it is. It can cause respiratory problems. Lead soldering does get hot enough to the point where it can cause harm, although you should wash your hands if you are handling solder without gloves.
I don’t have any experience doing this than watching a few TH-cam videos and reading about it, but it sure looks to me like using a mask and solder balls would actually be way faster than this process?
Edit: I also suspect that even with the template it may be a tiny bit too much solder using this method, although that might not be a problem?
I do this all the time. With 80% success . But I don't do it to be permanent. Mainly for data recovery and small chips. I won't do this on chips with many pads with small spacing
Of course, this is kind of a pinch type maneuver, I would actually put the job on hold and order the stuff i need if it were a serious job =)
Com guessing that flux fumes mean nothing, okay.
Please check out my video on creating a proper solder fume extraction system. I was having alot of audio capture issues during some of these earlier videos with the fan on. In all my newer videos this issue has been fixxed =) I appreciate the comment! At some point I hope to come back and redo alot of my earlier videos =)
you need more time just to finish 1 ic
funny, I was holding my breath watching it..
To be fair rather than doing this I'd prefer repairing another customer's device and waiting for what I need, unless I even forgot to order it
doing this method you'll get diffrent size of balls, there is a higher probability exists that won't be interfacing
The beauty of this method, is that it can be like polishing metal. While yes, you're right in the fact that it can produce different size balls, but that is exactly why there were checks and balances in this technique. Like the ability to optically check your average array ball size from multiple angles. Using other information during the process like average topside surface area per pad when shaved in the stencil also gives clues to the size of the finished ball. Given there is a small bit of allowable tolerance in this as well in terms of the end resulting solder ball being able to coexist near slightly larger ones. There are many context clues in the small details that allow this to be a pertinent technique. This technique is ment for those who find themselves in particularly bad situations where a job needs to be done. Not for every day reballing, only from the standpoint that it can be time consuming if done appropriately.
I think that this method can be effective but for small ics having around 20 -30 pads
If you have patience and enough time it will eventually produce evenly sized balls, took me nearly 4 hours of this thecnique on a 210 pin LG PMIC but it came almost perfect sized balls. The method is great and comes in handy when you dont have stencils available for all types of ICs, also I used a variation of it using another IC for comparison instead of the stencil (since I wanted it to be a by hand only method)
Rofl, you actually never inhaled any parts of lead, it’s only flux. Temperature to actually evaporite lead is much above its fluid state, bro. With your experience you definitely should know that
your actually 100% right, and at the moment for some reason I did not, I think for me it was just "lead = dangerous" and I had read many things about soldering dross which IS micro lead that can enter your body from the process, but it pretty much only produced in large amounts from industrial wave soldering. So yes, its not the lead, its the FLUX thats the problem to breathe. Iv been working on alot of corrective videos for a new series over the last year and one of those corrections has been for this concept.
Thank you for taking the time to comment! I have learned alot over the years from random comments where i goofed up.
You know what they say, the quickest way to the right answer is the wrong answer online with a comments section =)
I made it one time with and nvidia gpu and after that I quit for the whole life 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I like the smell
Me to, its my favorite part XD jk, gota keep that exhaust on 24/7 =D
Flux fumes can contain lead. But some want to delude themselves and this is not a joking matter. So if you think lead is not carried in the fume plume, you just keep on deluding yourself. Irregardless, the fumes are noxious and the contents therein will cause you health problems. Fume extraction is not an option, it is mandatory for your safety and well being. Poo pooing safety is not a good idea. I have a hood on my drawing board and that is next on my agenda.
I couldn't see any technique, waste time.
th-cam.com/video/qdmCMacVd7w/w-d-xo.html
Very nice work. By the way, with just a couple of pc case fans, or psu fans, whatever, plus a box & pieces of old cloths, you can make a very usefull & filtered fume extractor (...not for take the fumes to the rest of your workshop or home :). Just clean & change the cloths from time to time, this thing changed my life. There're lots of tutos about diy extractors overhere. Cheers.
You speak a lot during work !!! which is very annoying !!!
Just mute the video and watch with music if you can learn without communication haha
Great video! but quick question: without adding additional solder paste to fill into the stencil holes for each balls are these solder balls high/ large enough to make good connection to the pad? They are evenly high for sure by using your way. Or, the size of the solder balls don't matter as long as they are even in high? Thank you for the upload of this video!