Good one Bruce! This was more inline with the perfect attention to everything, that you always has displayed in your videos. This is what I like to watch. Best regards from Jarle
Bruce - really starting to look good. Something I did for the motor key on my boat was to take one of the keys, cut off the handle part, and then epoxy the key blade into a black plastic soda bottle top. You don't need to paint it, it is self-floating if dropped in the water, and you can leave it in the keyhole without catching clothing on it. My engine panel was mounted in the cockpit of my boat, I never took the key out, and no one ever figured out what it was. If you want high visibility, there are plenty of different color bottle tops out there.
@@BuildingSYMistress Cut the "wings" off the key handle so that you have a handle section that is the same width/height as the key section. Fill a bottle top with epoxy, recommend you use 5-minute epoxy. Bput filled bottle top on a flat horizontal surface. Put the modified key vertically into the epoxy in the center of the bottle top with the handle portion in the epoxy and the key portion sticking out in the vertical position. Let cure for 5 minutes while holding the key in a vertical position. Fine tuning is to pre-measure the length of the modified key and cut the handle to length so that when the bottle top key is complete, the bottle top is just lightly resting on the control panel after the key is inserted. Hope this helps you out.
Looking good Bruce, I am a bit under the weather, very high temperature, shakes and watching you is just what I needed this evening. Thanks for all that you do.😊
G'day Bruce, I like the idea of the rubber in the anchor locker ,a sealed edge would help stop salt water intrusion, otherwise should work well. Been a while since we've seen around inside the cabin, would be nice to see how the overall progress is comming along. Thanks for another cool vid . Respect.....!
Thanks for your good comments Craig, appreciated and yes, I made sure that the edges were sealed, fingers 🤞 for the longer term,.. Stay tuned for more progress ahead mate,.. 🙂👍🏻
Bit late now, but some heavy duty magnets (possibly welding magnets that you already have) would have been perfect for aligning those rubber sheets in place before applying adhesive.
At 10:35 you are closing a bottom hinged cabinet door. Is there a gap on the right side of the door, or is it just the camera angle? I don't think that your high standard of precision would allow such a visible error. This build, even with such a cabinet door, is going to be an eye-catcher in every harbor.
Thanks for your sharp eye, good question and comments Randy, appreciated and yes, it does 'appear' that there is an uneven gap with this door, but the final fitting is even and looks good 😁👍🏻
I would’ve suggested that you rhino line or raptor line that locker before you added the rubber that way there was a perfect sealed on coding then you could’ve added the other rubber for impact protection
I agree, that would be a great choice. Even now it's not too late to use the Raptor over the areas with no rubber and of course don't forget the drain hole.
Thanks for your comments Scott, appreciated and yes, there are always several ways to skin a cat. Fyi I applied X5 epoxy high build undercoats then X3 Polyurethane topcoats to this locker pre adding rubber, which is detailed in an earlier video 🙂👍🏻
Thanks for your comments Scott, appreciated and yes, there are always several ways to skin a cat. Fyi I applied X5 epoxy high build undercoats + X3 Polyurethane topcoats pre adding the rubber to this locker, which is detailed in an earlier video episode 🙂👍🏻
@@johnhewett2525 Thanks for your comments John, appreciated and yes, there are always several ways to skin a cat. Fyi I applied X5 epoxy high build undercoats + X3 Polyurethane topcoats pre adding the rubber to this locker, which is detailed in an earlier video episode 🙂👍🏻
The Old Seadog on TH-cam has a steel boat, and he is constantly fighting rust, which seems to form everywhere. I can't help but wonder if rust will form under that rubber in the chain locker. If so, getting the rubber out may be a bear.
Thanks for your comments notChuck, appreciated, repeated anchor chain use V's painted steel WILL cause rusty steel, hence why I added rubber lining with all edges sealed and the adhesive used although high bond can be separated without too much sweat 🙂👍🏻
Thanks for your question James and yes there is a drain point and yes a drain is needed, as mentioned in this episode I had not then decided where/how I was going to set up the drainage, but have now 🙂👍
Hi Bruce that rubber won’t you get condensation between the steel and rubber. I have a ute they sprayed exstrem rubber on it nothing can get between and I can full the back with rocks and no damage
Hi Nigel and thanks for your good question, appreciated, condensation shouldn't be able to form, this is why I applied such a widespread but thin adhesive layer and then heavily rolled the rubber on, to remove any air spaces 🙂👍🏻
When looking at sailboat refits I always thought “why don’t steel and glass fiber sailboats use some rubber linings in their anker locker?”. And now finally someone does. You could improvise if you’re out sailing on a budget, possibly get it for free by using the tread of a set of car tires from the junkyard or dumpster. Cutting long rubber strips by cutting out the side walls of the tires. A big bleu trash bag filled with water could help to glue the pieces of strips in place. After sizing the pieces, cleaning the chain locker and cleaning plus sanding the inside of the tire tread strips you could probably glue them with some cocking or maybe some contact cement?. But I would check for any possible reaction depending on the glue and hul materials, just to be sure.
if your in an area where there is mining and they use conveyors to move material you can usually get old conveyor belt material for free, the quarry near me just stacks up the old stuff in the yard with the other junk. he was glad I got it out of his yard. win win for him and me.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks
Thank you very much for this good support Geoff, appreciated sir 🙂👍🏻
Beautiful work as always; Bruce. The quality of your build is truly impressive, mate!
Good on you and thanks very much for your kind comments Tony, appreciated mate 🙂👍🏻
Good one Bruce! This was more inline with the perfect attention to everything, that you always has displayed in your videos. This is what I like to watch. Best regards from Jarle
Thanks very much Jarle and for your feedback, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
When marking a dark surface I use a silver Sharpie, makes cutting the line very easy to see😀
Thanks Jan, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
The consistent attention to all those details has been your signature from inception. I love it !
Hey thanks very much for your good and encouraging comments Whitney, appreciated sir 🙂👍🏻
Gorgeous work as usual. Keep it up! Watchin from Norway and Sweden this month!
Thanks very much John, appreciated and enjoy your Scandinavian times 🙂👍🏻
Bruce - really starting to look good. Something I did for the motor key on my boat was to take one of the keys, cut off the handle part, and then epoxy the key blade into a black plastic soda bottle top. You don't need to paint it, it is self-floating if dropped in the water, and you can leave it in the keyhole without catching clothing on it. My engine panel was mounted in the cockpit of my boat, I never took the key out, and no one ever figured out what it was. If you want high visibility, there are plenty of different color bottle tops out there.
Thanks very much Ron, appreciated and re. your key-bottle top idea, I admit that I am having trouble visualising it,.. 🙂👍🏻
@@BuildingSYMistress Cut the "wings" off the key handle so that you have a handle section that is the same width/height as the key section. Fill a bottle top with epoxy, recommend you use 5-minute epoxy. Bput filled bottle top on a flat horizontal surface. Put the modified key vertically into the epoxy in the center of the bottle top with the handle portion in the epoxy and the key portion sticking out in the vertical position. Let cure for 5 minutes while holding the key in a vertical position. Fine tuning is to pre-measure the length of the modified key and cut the handle to length so that when the bottle top key is complete, the bottle top is just lightly resting on the control panel after the key is inserted. Hope this helps you out.
Getting close now mate, looking really good.
Thanks very much Lars, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
are in the water yet Love your journey thankyou for persevering with your dream!! amazing. I'm an ex sailor from NZ now old salt! cheers and beers!
Thanks very much for your good comments, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
For a one man band you are doing well building Mistress on your own well done
Thanks very much Kevin, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
Looking good Bruce, I am a bit under the weather, very high temperature, shakes and watching you is just what I needed this evening. Thanks for all that you do.😊
Hey thanks for your good comments Jeff, appreciated sir and wishing you a speedy recovery 🙂👍🏻
Nice work!
Thanks very much Sami, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
G'ver Bruce - great episode of work.
Thanks HeyJer, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
G'day Bruce,
I like the idea of the rubber in the anchor locker ,a sealed edge would help stop salt water intrusion, otherwise should work well.
Been a while since we've seen around inside the cabin, would be nice to see how the overall progress is comming along.
Thanks for another cool vid .
Respect.....!
Thanks for your good comments Craig, appreciated and yes, I made sure that the edges were sealed, fingers 🤞 for the longer term,.. Stay tuned for more progress ahead mate,.. 🙂👍🏻
Love it so much keep it up as always 💘
Good on you Chuck, thanks, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
Good progress!
Thanks Crist, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
Fantastic, I personally like a larger anchor than necessary, thanks for sharing,
Thanks Andre, appreciated and yes, Mistress' main anchor is bigger than the recommended size 🙂👍🏻
Bit late now, but some heavy duty magnets (possibly welding magnets that you already have) would have been perfect for aligning those rubber sheets in place before applying adhesive.
Thanks for your good comments Eamon, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
At 10:35 you are closing a bottom hinged cabinet door. Is there a gap on the right side of the door, or is it just the camera angle? I don't think that your high standard of precision would allow such a visible error. This build, even with such a cabinet door, is going to be an eye-catcher in every harbor.
Thanks for your sharp eye, good question and comments Randy, appreciated and yes, it does 'appear' that there is an uneven gap with this door, but the final fitting is even and looks good 😁👍🏻
@@BuildingSYMistress Fantastic, just as I suspected, thanks.
great work as usual hope you manage to get to Geograph marina someday so I can seethe finished boat
Thanks for your good comments Colin, appreciated and yes, I can hardly wait to set sail and circumnavigate Australia,.. 🙂👍🏻
I would’ve suggested that you rhino line or raptor line that locker before you added the rubber that way there was a perfect sealed on coding then you could’ve added the other rubber for impact protection
I agree, that would be a great choice. Even now it's not too late to use the Raptor over the areas with no rubber and of course don't forget the drain hole.
Thanks for your comments Scott, appreciated and yes, there are always several ways to skin a cat. Fyi I applied X5 epoxy high build undercoats then X3 Polyurethane topcoats to this locker pre adding rubber, which is detailed in an earlier video 🙂👍🏻
Thanks for your comments Scott, appreciated and yes, there are always several ways to skin a cat. Fyi I applied X5 epoxy high build undercoats + X3 Polyurethane topcoats pre adding the rubber to this locker, which is detailed in an earlier video episode 🙂👍🏻
@@johnhewett2525 Thanks for your comments John, appreciated and yes, there are always several ways to skin a cat. Fyi I applied X5 epoxy high build undercoats + X3 Polyurethane topcoats pre adding the rubber to this locker, which is detailed in an earlier video episode 🙂👍🏻
The Old Seadog on TH-cam has a steel boat, and he is constantly fighting rust, which seems to form everywhere. I can't help but wonder if rust will form under that rubber in the chain locker. If so, getting the rubber out may be a bear.
Thanks for your comments notChuck, appreciated, repeated anchor chain use V's painted steel WILL cause rusty steel, hence why I added rubber lining with all edges sealed and the adhesive used although high bond can be separated without too much sweat 🙂👍🏻
Hej Bruce
Det ser ud Håber at det bliver godt med det så er der kun det sidste 😊arbejde at gøre 😊😊
Hilsen fra Danmark og Michael
Tak Michael, appreciated, yes, getting there,.. 🙂👍🏻
Is there a drain from the anchor locker for water to get out? Is this needed? (I think so?)
Thanks for your question James and yes there is a drain point and yes a drain is needed, as mentioned in this episode I had not then decided where/how I was going to set up the drainage, but have now 🙂👍
Hi Bruce that rubber won’t you get condensation between the steel and rubber.
I have a ute they sprayed exstrem rubber on it nothing can get between and I can full the back with rocks and no damage
Hi Nigel and thanks for your good question, appreciated, condensation shouldn't be able to form, this is why I applied such a widespread but thin adhesive layer and then heavily rolled the rubber on, to remove any air spaces 🙂👍🏻
A clothes hanger installed, must be getting close to completing. (-:
Thanks for your good comments John, appreciated 🙂👍🏻
When looking at sailboat refits I always thought “why don’t steel and glass fiber sailboats use some rubber linings in their anker locker?”.
And now finally someone does.
You could improvise if you’re out sailing on a budget, possibly get it for free by using the tread of a set of car tires from the junkyard or dumpster.
Cutting long rubber strips by cutting out the side walls of the tires.
A big bleu trash bag filled with water could help to glue the pieces of strips in place.
After sizing the pieces, cleaning the chain locker and cleaning plus sanding the inside of the tire tread strips you could probably glue them with some cocking or maybe some contact cement?.
But I would check for any possible reaction depending on the glue and hul materials, just to be sure.
if your in an area where there is mining and they use conveyors to move material you can usually get old conveyor belt material for free, the quarry near me just stacks up the old stuff in the yard with the other junk. he was glad I got it out of his yard. win win for him and me.
😁Thanks for your good comments H.Rutten, appreciated and yes, I've always wondered too 👍🏻
@@robertzalnis3162 Thanks for your good comments Robert, appreciated 🙂👍🏻