@@FroggyShave I just picked up a W&B 7/8 so watched your video for inspiration. Needs new scales and the condition is almost identical so thank you for this video! It has helped massively
@@OliverReilly1 thx for your support!!! Means a lot! I have another W&B lying around for months, waiting to be restored, definitely need to kick my a** and start working on it 😅💈
heard from razor circles that vinegear will make it corrode and dremels might heat it up and ruin the heating process of the blade. Not sure its accurate in all circumstances
A real one this time ;) I'm glad you dropped it haha and had to put the blue scales on it, they're much more appropriate than orange although I'd still prefer black horn. Thank God the blade was ok! I have a similar razor with original horn. I think this particular model has very shallow stamping as mine is also very faint. (The bigger W&B's have much deeper etching) Mine wasn't in as bad a condition as yours but I used sandpaper to get it back into a condition I'm happy with. I used the same abrasive polish as you Dialux Orange, Grey and Green. 1:24 The honewear on the spine closest to the shoulder (stabilizer) looks to have taken a considerable amount of width off the blade as it's starting to eat into the shoulder now so the previous owner did you no favors. It's weird that they could eat into the shoulder like that but seemingly leave the toe in fairly decent condition. Maybe they used a narrow hone? It's good it has now found it's way into someones hands that will look after it properly, good job.
Thx a lot mate for the nice comment. 😊 Indeed not only it was in a rough rusty state but the previous owner honed it or had it honed quite badly. Indeed this isn't a deep etching, I had the choice to have a nice mirror polished blade by sanding it but looking at the rust on the blade that would have removed totally the etching. I'm glad you prefer the blue scales, I think I do too 🤩
Nicely done on the stones! I enjoyed the microscope video at each stage and know that takes some time to get that all inserted into the vid. How did it shave?
Thx a lot Matt for the kind comment! ☺️👍 Yes you're 100% correct, it usually takes me twice the time to create/remaster the video than filming it 🥵 And damn, I completely forgot to mention how the shave was! It was really really good, super smooth, sometimes it can be bit or miss with WB (depending on the initial blade state). It's quite an heavy blade so we just need to let the steel glide on its own on the skin. 😍
if you take a toma equal to the jnat do you now wat grit it is ? i have a toma from my aiiwatani and sometimes i have the impression if my straight is good after my nagura progression and i do the toma from aiiwatani then it is that my edge is gone. I then go back to my nagura. also i thought mejiro was lower in grit than a tenjio.
The Tomo (meaning "same" in Japanese) is equal to your base stone grit, this is why it's usually recommended to use hard or very hard finishing stones so this is your final grit. The flip side of hard stones and hard Tomo is that if you put other too much pressure on the blade or a too thick slurry there is a high risk of damaging the edge by "scratching/marking" your previous edge. So on my last step I raise a very light slurry with my Tomo and only the weight of the blade as pressure. But with an Aiwatani, it could also be possible that an Asano Nagura Koma could provide a smoother edge than your Tomo nagura. At the end of the day, your skin is the only judge and if it feels smoother with one stone keep doing it this way 🙂👍 The tenjyou is around 8-9k grit and the mejiro around 9-10k. (Using the Asano Nagura set).
Hi, To remove the pivot pins, I either use a small file and protect the scales with tape or use a Facom 396 plier (facom.com.pl/en/6765-396-plastic-cutter-pliers.html)
Hi mate, nowadays I've unfortunately not much free time to hone others' razors but can definitely give you advice/tips if needed. Here is my email address: froggyshave@gmail.com
![Restoring an Old Rusty Straight Razor - [NLH 8]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1gL5jDIg_uI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Restoring an Old Rusty Straight Razor - [NLH 8]](/img/tr.png)
Nice razor and edge. Love the new scales!
Thx a lot mate 😊
Nice 👍
@@cheshirebowman4465 thx mate 👍
Accidents happen but that blue is a million times better! Just glad the blade didn’t get damaged!
Thx mate, indeed I agree with you, Blue looks cool 😎👍
@@FroggyShave I just picked up a W&B 7/8 so watched your video for inspiration. Needs new scales and the condition is almost identical so thank you for this video! It has helped massively
@@OliverReilly1 thx for your support!!! Means a lot!
I have another W&B lying around for months, waiting to be restored, definitely need to kick my a** and start working on it 😅💈
Jeez that vinegar + polishing paste and a dremel worked wonders
@@rxw5520 it did, thx mate. But tbh I think vinegar could have been skipped
heard from razor circles that vinegear will make it corrode and dremels might heat it up and ruin the heating process of the blade. Not sure its accurate in all circumstances
@@raevneldaer6285 I'm still using this blade on regular basis, the blade didn't get rust and the edge is still very smooth while shaving.
@@FroggyShave good too know. Make it easier to remove rust on vintage for sure
This is so great to watch
Thx a lot Greg! 😁💈👍
Fantastic job man! ✨🔥
Thanks a lot mate 😊👍
A master class on honing of well made video
Thanks so much Martin! 😉💈👍
A real one this time ;)
I'm glad you dropped it haha and had to put the blue scales on it, they're much more appropriate than orange although I'd still prefer black horn. Thank God the blade was ok!
I have a similar razor with original horn. I think this particular model has very shallow stamping as mine is also very faint. (The bigger W&B's have much deeper etching)
Mine wasn't in as bad a condition as yours but I used sandpaper to get it back into a condition I'm happy with. I used the same abrasive polish as you Dialux Orange, Grey and Green.
1:24 The honewear on the spine closest to the shoulder (stabilizer) looks to have taken a considerable amount of width off the blade as it's starting to eat into the shoulder now so the previous owner did you no favors. It's weird that they could eat into the shoulder like that but seemingly leave the toe in fairly decent condition. Maybe they used a narrow hone?
It's good it has now found it's way into someones hands that will look after it properly, good job.
Thx a lot mate for the nice comment. 😊
Indeed not only it was in a rough rusty state but the previous owner honed it or had it honed quite badly.
Indeed this isn't a deep etching, I had the choice to have a nice mirror polished blade by sanding it but looking at the rust on the blade that would have removed totally the etching.
I'm glad you prefer the blue scales, I think I do too 🤩
Looked good bro
Thx a lot mate :)
Nicely done on the stones! I enjoyed the microscope video at each stage and know that takes some time to get that all inserted into the vid. How did it shave?
Thx a lot Matt for the kind comment! ☺️👍 Yes you're 100% correct, it usually takes me twice the time to create/remaster the video than filming it 🥵
And damn, I completely forgot to mention how the shave was!
It was really really good, super smooth, sometimes it can be bit or miss with WB (depending on the initial blade state). It's quite an heavy blade so we just need to let the steel glide on its own on the skin. 😍
if you take a toma equal to the jnat do you now wat grit it is ? i have a toma from my aiiwatani and sometimes i have the impression if my straight is good after my nagura progression and i do the toma from aiiwatani then it is that my edge is gone. I then go back to my nagura. also i thought mejiro was lower in grit than a tenjio.
The Tomo (meaning "same" in Japanese) is equal to your base stone grit, this is why it's usually recommended to use hard or very hard finishing stones so this is your final grit.
The flip side of hard stones and hard Tomo is that if you put other too much pressure on the blade or a too thick slurry there is a high risk of damaging the edge by "scratching/marking" your previous edge.
So on my last step I raise a very light slurry with my Tomo and only the weight of the blade as pressure.
But with an Aiwatani, it could also be possible that an Asano Nagura Koma could provide a smoother edge than your Tomo nagura.
At the end of the day, your skin is the only judge and if it feels smoother with one stone keep doing it this way 🙂👍
The tenjyou is around 8-9k grit and the mejiro around 9-10k. (Using the Asano Nagura set).
You are lucky that you can make the scales your self 😉😀
Actually these ones were made by a trusted talented artisan (Drew Dick), he also makes fabulous razors :)
How do you remove the scales off the razor?
Hi,
To remove the pivot pins, I either use a small file and protect the scales with tape or use a Facom 396 plier (facom.com.pl/en/6765-396-plastic-cutter-pliers.html)
@@FroggyShave what kind of file would you recommend for removing scales?
@@pablo64073 I'm using these ones
www.ebay.ie/itm/302669252633
what that razor worth ???
@@silverwiskers7371 what someone is ready to pay for it 😂
Generally once restored and Wade of this style would go for 120-160$
Can you honed my razor sir?
Hi mate, nowadays I've unfortunately not much free time to hone others' razors but can definitely give you advice/tips if needed. Here is my email address: froggyshave@gmail.com