Thank you for sharing this. I just started working at my neighborhood grocery stores deli and the blades are duller than dull. Which means they are unsafe. Now I know how to do this weekly.
Like others said do not leave stone engaged for long periods like that, 3 second pulses. And also the front stone is only for deburring front side. All sharpening is done on one side of the blade (back) it is not meant to have a double bevel edge only single. Sharpen back side till you can feel burrs form on the top side of blade by running your finger from center out when stopped. Then quick 2 second pulse with deburring stone to knock those off
hi! so what I've been trying to figure out is the blade bevel side. The geometry tells me the major bevel should be on the underside, the side where the meat peels off, while a tiny, de-burred bevel is on the side the whole meat or cheese rests upon, or the top side. Do I have that correctly thought out? It seems from afar, the top side of the blade is beveled, but maybe it's the blade guard that helps it look that way. Any input wold be welcome, thanks!
@@CuriousEarthMan you are right, and that is the way it is. These blades are hard chrome/stainless. The mirror shine probably creates the illusion. One thing that was not right in this video is the bottom and top stones are supposed to be turning. This creates cooling and you can sharpen in 5 second burst plus. That is straight from a Hobart manual
a word of advice. leaving the sharpening stone in contact with the stainless steel blade will burn it, or cause bluing on the back side of the blade and shorten the life of the blade.
do not hold the blade against the sharpener this long. it will blacken the blade and could ruin your blade. only hold the sharpening stone to the blade for a count of 5...then repeat if nessasary. blade will make many rotations in a 5 second time frame.
I have a 1957 model 410 that has the 1/2” thick plate steel blade. It has the factory sharpener attachment but it’s too rough in my opinion. Once in a while I take a 6000 grit wet stone to the blade but I have experience sharpening by hand. When I do that I swear I can product meat paper lol.
@@lorenzomax3762 Thanks. I ended up grabbing a 1712. Fixed the seized automatic function and ordered the sharpener assembly for as cheap as I could find it (not cheap).
THANK YOU! I could not figure the sharpener out on this old Hobart we purchased as a back up and now need to use it. Thanks again!!
Thank you for sharing this. I just started working at my neighborhood grocery stores deli and the blades are duller than dull. Which means they are unsafe. Now I know how to do this weekly.
Like others said do not leave stone engaged for long periods like that, 3 second pulses. And also the front stone is only for deburring front side.
All sharpening is done on one side of the blade (back) it is not meant to have a double bevel edge only single. Sharpen back side till you can feel burrs form on the top side of blade by running your finger from center out when stopped. Then quick 2 second pulse with deburring stone to knock those off
hi! so what I've been trying to figure out is the blade bevel side. The geometry tells me the major bevel should be on the underside, the side where the meat peels off, while a tiny, de-burred bevel is on the side the whole meat or cheese rests upon, or the top side. Do I have that correctly thought out? It seems from afar, the top side of the blade is beveled, but maybe it's the blade guard that helps it look that way. Any input wold be welcome, thanks!
@@CuriousEarthMan you are right, and that is the way it is. These blades are hard chrome/stainless. The mirror shine probably creates the illusion. One thing that was not right in this video is the bottom and top stones are supposed to be turning. This creates cooling and you can sharpen in 5 second burst plus. That is straight from a Hobart manual
Thanks
Thanks! I've been looking all over for a how to video to sharpen the slicer at work because no one knows how.
a word of advice. leaving the sharpening stone in contact with the stainless steel blade will burn it, or cause bluing on the back side of the blade and shorten the life of the blade.
Just for future reference you do not need to take the slide tray or blade shield off to sharpen.
This thing is straight up amazing!
do not hold the blade against the sharpener this long. it will blacken the blade and could ruin your blade. only hold the sharpening stone to the blade for a count of 5...then repeat if nessasary. blade will make many rotations in a 5 second time frame.
Thank you for the great lakes video
Where can I find that sharpener?
Thank you Good video . I just need some stones
I have a 1957 model 410 that has the 1/2” thick plate steel blade. It has the factory sharpener attachment but it’s too rough in my opinion. Once in a while I take a 6000 grit wet stone to the blade but I have experience sharpening by hand. When I do that I swear I can product meat paper lol.
5 second rule don't burn the blade
What slicer model is this slicer
Ty
where do i find the sharpener
Did you ever find one?
Why is this listed under Comedy?
*WRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR*
I know this is an old thread but does anyone know what model Hobart this is?
Looks like a 1712 to me
@@lorenzomax3762 Thanks. I ended up grabbing a 1712. Fixed the seized automatic function and ordered the sharpener assembly for as cheap as I could find it (not cheap).
1712