Trying out the blacksmithing guillotine tool aka the smithin' magician
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2014
- Finally get around to trying out this tool.
I wasn't overly impressed with the results but I think that was for two reasons. Firstly I have never used it before and it is tricky to use first go. Secondly, it needs a specific job so that I can taylor the dies to that job.
You can have general dies but I think I will gather more as each job arrives and I make ones to suit. The steel for the dies is just bright bar EN32B / 080A15, easily sought from any good steel stockholder.
It will be a great asset to the shop and I'm sure I will be using this more and more.
You can buy the plans from my Etsy shop here www.etsy.com/uk/listing/77223...
These are the latest plans with tabs to make assembly easier.
My Amazon page with some of the tools and equipment I use in my videos.
UK: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/garyhuston
US: www.amazon.com/shop/garyhuston #GaryHuston #Blacksmithing #Farrier #ASMR #Horseshoeing #Fabrication #Ironwork #Hoofcare #welder #repairs #horse #farriery #engineering - บันเทิง
I was going to make a comment about a spring, but then I read down, and further down and even further down then found the answer! I would never have known that and feel I've learned a bonus lesson too even after the video ;) The fact so many of us wanted to see it spring loaded means we're definitely noobs. Thanks Gary
+Ian Lynch yeah today it is all about voice control. Open up a bit, OK hold there.
Amazing tool! Good job :) I think I'm gonna make one for myself. Thanks for inspiration.
Best regards,
Greg
Very nice. Looks very effective and it wouldn't take too long to figure out other custom tooling for ones specific projects.
On my round dies I grind the edges off to make an oval so it won't pinch the metal and it works much better. I also have a die with holes side by side and a flat die on the bottom. It make a good cats paw for the base of a leg. Also works for making half round bars. Thank you very much for all the things you do and share. You probably can't hear but I often say thanks Gary while I'm working in my shop.
never mind the "spring "idea after seying the rest of the video i change my mind .
This is fantastic tool as it is . i may made one smaller version for goldsmith work ..it has endless possibilities and will widen the designing jewelry as follow .
Thank you Gary ..you are genius
Very well done again Gary!! The fullering dies seemed to work really nicely and I really like the decor die set you made! Those would be really helpful for handles or legs.
I finally made my Smith's Helper. it is so nice, made cutting and fullering so much easier, especially since I don't have all the tools I really need. I had to alter your design, but it was essentially the same thing. Thank you for your design.
Very Intereting Gary! Endless possibilities....thankyou!
Works like a good'un. I'd be chuffed with the results if I had made it!
I see the Sarries top has reapeared. You must be happy with the way they are playing at the moment. My team (Bristol) are in the Championship final now, too.
Hope your shoulders are holding up ok. Thanks for the video. Inspiring!
Great real-world advice. I'm subscribing.
Looks brilliant mate , nice one -
Hope you are feeling better. thanks for the vids
Absolutly nice tool. It is sure, like you said secondly, that you will taylor the dies with specific jobs. Inspsiring...
Nice tool. Well done video. Thanks
Very nice working Machine! ☺☺☺
thankyou for sharing once again it works every well Its only my opinion all tools need those little adjustments to make us happy
Great work I liked very much
the biggest thing with those tools is learning the different ways of using the dies. personally i would have mounted the hardy in a star pattern so you could set it at a 90 or a 45 to the anvil edge.
Well done
fantastico quest'attrezzo dovrò costruirlo anche io ,sei un grande! ciao
I'm a bladesmith looking to make one of these. One specific tool I want to make is a tool that will make nice clean plunge cuts. Nice job on this.
I would not add the springs. it is a pain to lift the top fuller but it holds the material and when you strike the top fuller there is no bounce and 100% of you hammer strike is translated to the material. I made one of these because I got tired of the material "hopping" when I used a spring fuller. with the material in contact with the top and bottom tool you won't get any tool blows outside of the area you wanted.
You can cut the radius down or use a smaller square rod or make a set of larger radius for the 5/8 square rod.
Hi ! Good videos you have there. Little tip for your tenondie, you can round of the holes, they are too sharp so u get nasty marks. It need room to spread out. They can almost be like oval shape, because its only the top and bottom of the hole that forms the shape when u twist it around.
I cheated and bought one. Cost a pretty penny though. Mine is a bit strange, has slots cut into the sides into which the dies fit in. It has a double plate on the bottom and the hardy or lower plate screws on. If you do 't want to set it on the anvil, you can unscrew the lower plate off. I have never tried a spring fuller, although I can see where at times it might be better. I call my "magic helper" a guillotine. I also have cut off dies for when I want to cut a piece of bar stock. I really enjoy watching you work, gives me a really good idea of the time frame in which these sort of things get done. You have a lot of serious stuff.
sky's the limit with that thing ! even a hardened makers stamp punch
I,m with you gary read all comments before you post a question yah I know that after a video has been up there is a lot but you will learn more also it take a lot of time making videos and answering questions so we the watchers should try and help you out, great job on tol it,s inspiring too a lot of us to build are own and if they want springs they can add them and see what you already know cheers from canada
It looks like it would be easier going if you could secure the tool more firmly against your anvil. is the bar stock long enough to go all the way thru the hardy? If so you might could open a hole thru the square bar which you could hammer thru a scrap wedge of wood.
that's really cool
1st i hoped you would get this video out soon.keep on with the great projects(i havent even watched the vid yet!)
Hi; About the size of their dies.I am building mine but might need or be better off buying a few of their's and some of some typts that are hard for me to build at home .
I hope it helps to setup mine to use some of their dies in my tooling.
Thanks good job of showing.
To aid in keeping the piece level you could do a magnetic stand which you can place a little ways down the anvil to rest the piece onto during the initial "tooling" ...
Muy bueno!! Gracias por el detalle de enviar el link. Que bueno sería si la parte superior, retornara a su posición con un muelle, pero entiendo que es para hacer pequeños detalles, y con el hierro al rojo. Muy buen trabajo!!
I have already answered that question, look at the earlier posts.
For doing that groove in you could use your stop that you made.
It works well. I'm sure you'll find it very usefull
It will be useful once I have a real job for it!
I can see many uses for it.
I wonder if the dies were facing 90 degrees different if it wouldn't be better, it seems to be limited to the throat size but it definitely is nice for putting a fuller in on something like a knife blade
Edge 150 it's only limited to the width of the dies, that is the same whether they are this way or 90 degrees. The length is unlimited either way.
just a suggestion would it be a good idea to put horizontal lines maybe 2 mil apart on the top tool above the whole thing so when you hammer it you can look at the lines and see if you are the same depth on all sides of the bar you are shaping.
phil hyms Yes, good idea!
That Smithing Magician looks like it would be perfect if instead of a slot for the punches it had a sort of cross or phillips slot, so you could pull out and put the punches in a quarter turn to the side, and then also do a quarter turn of the magician in the hardy hole, so you can very easily see both sides, but also you have the option to swap back and forth.
Have the bottom head smooth and the top head set for cutting gear teeth or a patterned checker
I have one of those fullering devices which have found not to be that satisfactory. I think it is because I just have the square dies. I will get some stock and make the tooling you have demonstrated . It looks like a big improvement.
Thanks
Frank (VA)
you should spring load the top die so that it would make it easier to see the work piece between blows. It would also make re-positioning the work piece quicker and more precise
I didn't spring load the top for a reason, have you ever tried hitting something that keeps popping back up towards you? It's a royal pain! You hit just as it's coming back up and you end up miss hitting. You end up being slower because you have to wait between blows for it to settle.
garyhuston
Perhaps a little lever loosely attached to the top of the top die. You could rest your hammer on it while you reposition the stock with your left hand
+Gary Huston I like this video and am already thinking of all kinds of shaping dies for it.
But I also thought of a fix for the tool to allow better visibility...
What about adjusting the 30mm Square Post that fits into the Hardie Hole with a 40 to 45 degree offset (or whatever degree that would make it more comfortable) to turn the front of it towards you?? Such as make another bottom plate the same size but the 30mm square hole is turned off-set by 40 degrees, remove the current square post and attach it to the new plate, then bolt it on the bottom of the Smithin' Helper.
If you do that, I'd like to see an update video.
that won't happen. I have got used to the way it is. The video was the first time I had used it but now it's no bother.
Gary Huston
Gary Huston b
Re-design it so that the holding arms angle out to the side from the hardy support. You'll be able to see what you are doing, and, get the same result.
That lengthways round one would be good for a twist aswell
you should try mixing the tools, say the flat bottom tool with the top round one. that would make them more useful overall i think, could probably use it for drawing out some steel.
it would be great for putting makers mark on blades you could do both sides at the same time and they would be even and level
FordFracture looks like it could take a words worth of punches atleast
Danke
Hey Gary,I'm new to the channel but love the videos so far. I am retiring from the military and interested in getting started blacksmithing as a hobby. Do you have any advise on building versus buying a forge? I have alreqady gathered up a good bunch of tools. Still need an anvil.
It really depends on your budget, skill levels, space and time available.
If you can afford it go and buy yourself a water cooled alcosa or similar forge.
I would have loved one but as a struggling apprentice it was better for me to build one as I had the skills and the access to materials. Now I've just got used to it!
Happy smithing!!
great set of videos I will have to make myself one, What did this cost to make this? I would of thought the tool would of needed to be made out of tool steel, but I was wrong. I really like all the tool ends you made I have even thought of a few more. Once again good job.
As always your vids are great. Best of luck figuring out favorite angles on dies. Best to make some of each. Hope your spirit catches more for our craft. Keep up good work and thanks again brother.
very handy. can't you nake some sort of a spring to lift the tool up a bit
Read the other comments!
Gray, love the videos they have helped me out quit a bit and I was just wondering if any chance you could show how to make a 4 or 5lbs rounding hammer. In stead of me going to buy one, I would rather try and make one. Thanks!
Hi Josh, glad they have helped. Unfortunately I have only ever made one hammer in my 36 years working and that was a pain!
At my age I can't do that sort of hammering any more and I don't have anyone to strike for me.
If you really want to try and make one you should watch some of the videos with Brian Brazeal teaching at various places. I have seen a couple of videos where they make hammers, although I wouldn't want to use one, far too heavy for every day use and they all seem to strangle the hammer by holding it right at the top. In my opinion that is because they are too heavy and you don't have the control you get by holding the handle of a propperly balaced hammer. Just my opinion though!
Thank you for the response I will take that into consideration and stick with a smaller and well balanced hammer. I will go and see some of the Brain's work on hammers just to see what the process is like to make one. Thanks again.
Since the upper hammer rests against your work between blows, do you find that too much heat is drawn off your work and into the face of the upper hammer?
Interesting that you single out the top die as the work rests on the bottom die all the time! And no, neither die draws away a significant amount of heat.
Hi Gary, good vid nice dies, I have a guillotine I made ages ago the stop is a great plus as you don't need to concentrate on placing the material in the same place just on the depth of fuller, much better. Do you think you could make an oak apple acorn fullering tool. Pieh do a spring swage but expensive from us. Spring swage close in vice could be used as a mould to pour copper etc. don't know how to make the acorn shape in either a guillotine tool die or even a swage, you got any ideas.?
None what so ever!
You can use race bearings as a ball or even acorn swedge. If by hand form ball then slightly taper ball. Chisel in lines and voila. You got nuts. Fuller top to stem. Lot of ways to make. Lot of fun to try. Good luck brother.
Twittle it, and beat it?
Seriously left the door open on that one!
LOL!
would hardening/tempering the top of your dies reduce the deformation from hammer blows or would it open up possible trouble from cracking?
You can't harden mild steel!
garyhuston Case hardening?
TheKez1998
wouldn't last a couple of blows!
Very good design , congratulations. You can palgiar . kkkk
I am Brazilian Evandro call me and I am starting this letter (only Hobby without financial claims ) as I will do my things alone this device would be ideal for me to do my objects . Descupe me some graphical errors because I used a translator. Obs .: I like your designs .
how about installing spring with adjustable tention which will keep the top tool up ??
the adjustment would keep the tool at certain height for different job thickness .
but then some stopper has to be installed to prevent the tool form jumping out ... just an idea ..don't know if will work ??
Please read earlier answer.
+garyhuston How would it work as a fullering tool.
Rubbish I would think! You would need to modify it by putting in a flat base instead of bottom tool and highly modify the top tool but I guess if thats all you wanted it to do you could spend the time doing it.
+stan you are right stan. add spring will do. it will help a lot..
+Shahran Yaacob try it, you will find it's a pain in the arse!
Love, the idea. Have you thought of turning the dies 90 degrees?
hogheadv2 Why?
garyhuston It would allow better view of the work piece. It seems you have an extra side plate.
Your bottom die can hold flush with one side, Captured in the pocket. [C shaped side plate of stout material ]
Bolt on capture for the top die. With the Great base design and a upright to keep it square this would allow 3 side access to the tools.
hogheadv2 I have no idea what you are talking about but feel free to do that on your version if you feel it would help....
nice!!! dies need to be C35-steel or not? and could you give me the link to the plans?
The link to the plans are in the description on the making page here, th-cam.com/video/Xh9TDVDm93s/w-d-xo.html
Гари очень интересно, огромное спасибо за видео!!!
adding a valve spring in between two flat plates could make it hands free . or an ajustable stop for more precise work .
f preston please see the previous answer to that one!
How do you burn metal? what happens when it gets too hot?
It melts if you get it too hot, it looks like a firework sparkling and molten metal drops on the floor! Not good if you are trying to make something nice as it ruins it!
hey nice tool
can i ask what kind of material you used for the dies ?
Nezam Shalchi read the description, it's all there..
мужик, от души, чисто по русски, благодарю за идею
Maybe a spring loaded cradle for the *dye, to keep it in the up position.
And adjustable
How many more times??
I like that
do You use mild Steel for The dies?
philip reimers yes just bright bar
Gary, Gary, Gary, if at all possible could you send me the plans for your magic tool would really like to make me a set up like so if possible co uld you send what I need. Thanks. ( keep pounding) Thank you Reuben
Do you record these and then dub over, or speak during the recording? I can never quite tell
Dub over.
justfakeit888 he does it really well, you almost can't tell really nice work
Indeed. If you listen closely you can hear a computer fan in the recording.
Are these dies something you would want to heat treat?
No, they are only EN32B which is just bright bar..
I'm in the process of making dies out of 6150 steel and hardening them to 53 Rockwell . I was asked by someone if the heat from the steel being worked would draw out some the hardness . I guess the same could be asked about the face of an anvil , mass perhaps ?
love the style of your Guillotine is there any way that you could possibly draw the dimensions of it.
Robby Scarborough just download the plans, its all there..
Gary Huston also it shouldn't be too hard to wing it, aslong as you start with the dies. Build around that and there should be little (if any) issues.
Nice job dude .. but why the bits are not hardened? Wouldn't it be better?
No point using hardened steel on hot material, if you are worried about damaging the top when you hit it just put a run of hard facing rod across it. I’ve been using them for a very long time and just run a weld across the ones I use the most. Still on the same dies as when I made the tool.
Awesome thanks
Ha read the previous post after I posted mine.
where did u get that tool?
danny jones th-cam.com/video/Xh9TDVDm93s/w-d-xo.html
Surely its faster on the anvil for all those techniques?
Yes for some but your missing the point, I demonstrating the tool not the techniques!
I always miss the point gary, so my wife keeps telling me.
Anyway, I really enjoy your videos. Could you maybe add some more shoeing videos?
Cheers.
mossy mickey
I'll see If I can do some more shoeing vids when the weather is better, don't want to get the camera gear in the mud!!
do you have a turbocad program?
I have Bobcad, if you have a DWG or DFX file it will work.
Hi Gary I have been looking through all my disc's for the drawing ,i said I would send and have not come across it, But I will do a quick Schematic, and send it to you You can size it up for your own use
Thomas E
OK, great..
Gary why don't you try to rotate the smithin magician 45 degrees on the the hardy bar? it might be easier for you to work on it
If I did i would have to redesign the base plate, the hole is square to the sides so it will only go 90 degrees. I only can't see it when I'm videoing, when I want to use it properly I would just face it towards me.
garyhuston
Ok mate I just thought the angle was not very convenient for you but if it suits you then it's perfect! Overall a great project mate, you are an inspiration! I cannot wait for your next videos!
From what I have seen and found out and researched most of the tooling is made from 01 tool steel hardened
Jay Sanders well , you’re wrong!
Gary Huston well if I am wrong that's fine no need to be rude about it. That is what I have seen and heard. Was thinking about ordering one from you but I don't need it that bad.
Великолепно !!!
/\
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"Amazing"
Buenaso!
☆☆☆
You need to figure out a way to put 1 or 2 light springs so you don't have to lift it while working steel
you need to read the comments first, this has been done to death!
i have allready made up a design for that :)
+DiRT and is it any good?
Hi Gary hope you are well. I was just wondering if you could possibly make me a set of tongs so that I can place knives in my new gas forge. I've found some online but the price is expensive cause it's for sets of 7,8 or 9. If you could let me know and then tell me a price I can then let you know if im happy with that thank you
Sorry, I don't make stuff to sell. Why not just make some? If not there are plenty of places that will sell one pair. It would cost more from me to make specially as opposed to off the shelf.
Ok thank you for your reply I'll have a search about. Just thought it would be cool to get some from you as I enjoy your videos. Thank you for the reply.
+Diesineveryfilm Customs Get some 25 cent pliers at a flea market and weld pipes on the handles. Done, and done! The trick really is in finding just the right pipes to use as handles. I have a pile of this thick walled half inch OD pipe that I've no idea where it came from. I have to grind pliers handles down a bit to get them in there, but once I do that it works without even the welding bit. I keep saying I'll weld them on someday. 15 years later it still has not happened yet.
Paul Frederick strange thing is I have bought some pliers that looked like tongs and welded on some tube so thanks from the past me aha. Check out my videos as you will see them in a few of my builds. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Diesineveryfilm Customs
yeah the choice to make tongs, or not is a tricky question today. Considering how many smiths are around, and the quantity of tools available. It is more resource efficient to just use what is available. As forging time, and hammering effort are finite quantities themselves.
Add a eccentric & con rod 20 pound weight fractional horse power motor, make it mechanical?
Con rod spring loaded ?
What are you trying badly to say?
make a mechanical hammer, I made a very small one weighing only a pond
or 2 and forged a quarter Square, with it
Thomas E
Put up the plans and i'll give it a go!
Its all gone Regency!!
huh? what's the handle on the side?
Ah... now that I see you working on a tube, I 'd suggest to make your tool a bit different: I mean turning the dies (and holder) 90°, so that you can work on more than just the end of the stock
For the stop for repeatable jobs
Often use tong handles. Just line them up and strike.
Neil Ostberg
ofte
I KNOW I KNOW !! .. THIS COULD BE COMBINED WITH HYDRAULIC PRESS !!!!!
Why did you stop making videos?
Have I stopped?
muito boa a sua ideia que deus ti de muitas boas ideias mi fale tem como fornece um projeto para mi aqui no brazil quanto curta
Why is he using what looks like a rubber hammer??
225rc where?
buen equipo de moldura en caliente felicitaciones desde colombia.
Put a return spring on the hammer side so it resets it after a blow. Will make it smoother to use. You'll be able to rotate and reposition the piece without lifting the hammer die by hand.
Have you thought of putting on some springs to it. Then you will have a small power hammer? You will be able to work without having to stop and fix your position all the time
Для операции на 18 минуте использовать ограничитель
Sorry, I have no idea what you are saying..
"For operation on 18 minutes to use the limiter"
no clue what hes on about.
+DiRT we can all use an online translator! One that actually worked would be nice.
@ 18.00 Use the length stopper adjusted to hold the job in between the blades, you even say it yourself, "could probably do with a guide really, to put it up against, so you get it right down the middle."
I know everyone keepsharping on about sprjnging the top; sorry bout that.
I think there IS a bit that MIGHT make it a tad more awesome, and it does involve a spring, but hear me out.
I think a spring loaded ball bearing, and a detent in the upper swage could work a treat. It would hold the die up till you were ready, and a simple tap of the hammer before a full strike would drop it into place. When you lose the heat, the work could be used to just flick it back into the standby position.
The main advantage would be, you would never have to set down your hammer just to pick up the die that half inch. Less time fussing with tools = more work time at tempature.
I recommend my modifaction as a machinist and tinkerer. As a blacksmith, I still use the handle side of my tongs to do those little radii, or an ancient guillotine fuller, if I remembered to pack it.
Whatever works.
Great design, and awesome video.