Down for sound owner is down to earth super cool non judgemental your choice is your choice your budget is your budget very explanatory easy going and will answer any questions willing to help even the so called to some as dumb questions no questions dumb everyone starts somewhere and he is one that has patience thats a awesome human being if I've ever seen one we all need to be like this guy got to hand it to him that's awesome !! Good job man thank you for being exactly what I see you the man brother!!🏆🇺🇸
You got the story close. Joe Price went from CCA to all OFC in his 170db build. Gaining 0.0db but 12w total. Also, we run D4S CCA in the 162db Niro just to prove a point. My Tahoe is ALL D4S OFC.
Well ive actually done comparisons myself, an there is very little difference in test i tried. I personally go with ofc because even though theres not a huge difference there is a difference. I've honestly never ran into thermal issue's with either wire type because when used properly they should be fine for the most part. With that being said i guess this could be used as a tip. When using cca get oversized gauged wires or the next size bigger it should balance out an be closer to ofc performance.
I run a Memphis 1k on two CT sounds and the wire burns. Copper clad sucks and it burns over time when it tryna bump. 100% copper u can run 5x the power through wire and not worry about no burning. Bad wire is also bad for fire hazards as well
My dad told me back in the 40's they used aluminum wire for house's because of ww2 and they needed resources so house's were built with copper aluminum wire or even straight up aluminum. House's would burn down because of thermal runaway like you explained. The fuses wouldn't even protect and pop because of the resistance. It's scary stuff. That's why copper for anything electric should be the way to go. Aluminum wire is just garbage. It's like putting a yugo engine in a Ferrari just pay the extra money for peace of mind and safety. This is just my opinion and take it with a grain of salt.
The problem you sighted in the 40's is true my dad said the same thing to me he just turned 93 on the 25th, I think it was because thy used the same gage "CCA wire" then the copper, therefore if they would have used the next gage size up of CCA that would have been less likely to happen, the same concept stands today IE if 4 gage OFC is safe for a given power x length if using CCA for the same power x length 0 gage will be required. PS Also back in the 40's who could predict we would have SO much more power demands then back then I mean the home I'm living in is 40s and I have a power strip at every outlet. 😂
@@scottiffanimccord1509 that's so true of how much electronic stuff we really use these days. LoL oh and happy belated birthday to your dad. 😊 my dad's birthday is in October and he will be 83 this year.
No such thing as 100% OFC. I use both, and like both for various reasons. But it is important to stress that most people, like 95% or more that use these, are never going to need them. Now what should be stressed, is the usage of a quality speaker wire with low resistance. Changing the impedance your amp sees will have a much greater effect than the difference between OFC and CCA ever will. Sure, if you are doing real big DB drag stuff, go for it, or if you're trying to use the absolute thinnest wire for ease of install or discretion, sure. But think before spending a huge amount of money on silver coated OFC wire everywhere. I see so many people who oversize their power wires, which obviously will never hurt, and then they either use the thin speaker wire that was already in the car because they can't run new stuff to doors etc. or just use thin stuff because it's cheap or easy to get to the subs. If you think using 7 feet of CCA vs. 7 feet of OFC will hurt power, that is nothing compared to what adding an extra ohm to your speaker wire will. If you're running 2 ohms and even just add ½ of an ohm, that will in most cases cut your power output significantly. Lastly you might also want to think about how much weight you add. Yes CCA conducts less, but it is also much lighter. In some cars that is to be preferred, and in some places, OFC will never be a must. In short, everything has its place, and one needs to be smart about choosing the right tool for the job.
Don’t know about y’all but I’m a street and block beater so cca works fine for me shit hell been using cca since the early 90s shit got me threw with no issue before all this ofc now if your into competition then yeah but for my 5k cca been turning heads and shaking dreads!
Good video, while I don’t mess with car audio I do mess with home audio. As for a side by side comparison in SQ the CCA will have a slightly more sterile sound and lack some bass compared to a true OFC. This is due to one reason. Aluminum is not conductive. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance. With CCA you’re loosing a lot of copper. The reason for the heat in CCA is your pushing to much current through a small amount of copper. OFC or a nice pure stranded copper with a tight wind is always the best for audio. Even over solid core wiring. I wish someone would remake the Auvio 12awg again. If you ever find a spool of the AUVIO brand wire run don’t walk, stuff is amazing. It measures 10awg.
I have a question about why high end speaker wire like this Skar 12g OFC, does not have the same shielding as the Premium RCA cables I'm about to buy. The goal is to keep the interference out right?
Kicker was able to run 2 of there kx 2400 at full power(2400+ watts) on ofc. On cca they were barely able to get 1300 before going into protection. 1/0 awg, not sure if it was the oversized.
@@bigdamn28 Yeah, I remember that video. Did you see how the CCA wires was coiled up? That's called cheating. Those two CCA wires were basically huge inductive coils. Total B.S. OFC has its place, but that Kicker video is ridiculous. If you ever see someone testing cables, make sure both cables are not coiled up, that will absolutely kill them.
That's because they were not paired equally. For a single run of ofc it would require 1.5 runs of cca. As to why i explain to people if your planning on running cca double the run. I have 4 runs front to back in my build of cca and 3 grounds front to back and total cost 300.00 with ofc it would have been closer to 600.00. I ran ofc for a long time and welding wire but cca will work just fine as long as its used and terminated properly.
Aluminum conductivity: 50%. Copper conductivity: 100%. Silver conductivity: 110%. Wtf. Silver must have a turbo charger on it. Adding Silver:💯. Great job. But please explain 110%. Thanks.
it's not a percentage of conductivity, its a percentage of copper, cca is copper tinned aluminum, ofc is pure copper and or many cases silver tinned copper, silver is a better conductor than copper but is also way more expensive, thats why no one makes pure silver cables
@@Brandon_Neil yeah that’s true. I didn’t even think to see what the material was I just bought first and thought later. I have a 2020 GTI and I’m doing the big three but haven’t got motivation because of how crammed every ground and power wire is on my car
Electrons flow on the OUTSIDE of the wire... not down the center. So if aluminum is "copper clad" then the electrons are flowing over the copper, not the aluminum. i.e. you're getting the electrical benefits of the copper without the weight. What the metal at the center of the wire does is offer structural stability and acts as a heat sink for the rest of the cable. The aluminum core keeps the copper jacket cool. I doubt there's any real world benefit to pure copper and, in fact, it's likely that if the cable is getting repeatedly flexed, that the copper is going to become brittle over time, compared to the aluminum. (copper gets harder every time you flex it) If you want to get pure copper... "just cause" then, that's fine. Just don't think it's providing any benefit. Oh and... if you want cheap large diameter wire... Jumper cables are cheap. Buy some at walmart, cut the ends off... there you go.
That's exactly what I did. I got a killer deal on a 50 ft. spool of 1/0 cca and used one run from the front to the back (20 ft). The insulation melted at the fuse holder because the wire got crazy hot. I used 20 more feet off the spool to have a second run, and haven't had any issues since.
My fosgate bdcp 1500 watt amp burst into flames at the positive power post from my cca wire getting cherry red like a space heater. It was on fire when I snatched it out of my cadillac. I could have burned up my car. Never again will I use cca wire! Nothing but ofc for now on. I learned my lesson on cutting a few dollars......
You think my bass amp clipping when the bass hits I'm running taramp 8k one ohm amp with 2 12 skar audio zvx 1500 rms peak 3000 watts and there one ohm too each sub also running mechman alternator with 3 battery the taramp 8k I have to o gauge wires going to it and 2 ground wires going to it too but they are cca wire and I also have a 5k tramp for my 4 10 tens voice and then my other amp witch is 12x800 tramp going to my doors 6 1/2 apocalypse speaker now my issue is that all my other amps are fine they don't go into protection mode the only amp that goes into protection mode is my bass 8k but when I turn it off and on it cuts back on but I can't raise the volume up too loud because then it will clip and go into protection mode only when the bass hits I have 2 o gauge wires going from the alternator to the battery in the back and front and the back battery going to the bass amp too could it be that cca wire that killing my bass I have. 2008 caddilac escalade short body any clues when appreciate it thanks
I know this is probably old but hopefully someone can answer, I currently am running 2/0 ofc for power and ground. My unibody vehicle chassis am having some voltage drop. I have tried different areas of the chassis and still the same. .5 to 1v between the front and back. Could I get away with using CCA Oversized or doubled up for running a ground from the block and front battery to the back battery instead of buying more ofc and still be safe?
Use a good ground up front which will be your "main" ground so to speak. Make a 2/0 OFC ground that goes from the battery to the engine block and a 1/0 OFC that goes to the chassis. That way you are grounded on both the engine and chassis. Then run a 1/0 OFC ground directly between the batteries and use copper buzz bars or blocks for ground distribution. Don't rely on your chassis for ground. Note that your hot power leads needs to be as good or better than your ground lead. Make sure the lead that goes from your alternator to your battery positive, is also 1/0 gauge OFC. From the distribution points, you can then easily get away with CCA. But use OFC for the main distribution network.
This might be a weird question but why is my bass knob with my IA 20.1making noises such as the equivalent to a microphone dropping on the ground, and making my subs not work at all. Does the old school looking phone cord need replacing?
@@drvictoria07 if you want to save money and still get quality, go to your local welding shop and just buy welding leads. Got 55 ft for 180 with tax. All ofc and the insulation is made better
@@fusiondensity3287 lol the copper is 100% OFC, there is cheaper copper grades it could be instead. Was Just saying, there is a difference between "tin"(aluminum alloy) and "Silver Tinned" the silver enhances the conductivity(more $)
@@arok_audio the copper coating on CCA wire is 100% copper but that does not make the wire 100% copper just like tinned copper wire does not make that wire 100% copper whether it's coated in gold, silver, brass or tin. That's my point but I don't think it would be coated in pure silver anyway, many a small percentage if any. Probably just tin
I think you’d be fine even at 1000 rms depending on the efficiency of your amp and length of cable. If you start blowing the fuse rated for that cable, then go OFC or bigger CCA.
CCA is okay to use in almost any application for car audio, the problem is since it's not as good OFC you have to double up on it. So for example, if your set up requires three 1/0 OFC runs of power from front to back, you would have to use six 1/0 CCA power from front to back. Always double up and you'll be fine. Sometimes after cost though in doing this you're not saving a huge amount of money by running CCA over OFC and you end up needing a lot more space for all the excess wiring. High depends on your build for which route you should take, any serious or bigger build will generally opt for OFC for these resons.
@@beardedforlife3740 better insulation also. Made to be drug over concrete, through mud, and can't have any leaks. It's cheaper because it's not "branded" also
i run nothing but welding cable. i work in heavy industry and i see what that insulation takes on a daily basis. the odds of that insulation melting or rubbing through on something is non existent
@@alexisbirungi1745 ofc is 99.99% oxygen free no matter if it's tinned or not. All tinning does is add an extra layer of protection. If it has a silver coating on it, it might change the conductivity but it won't be enough to recognize. IMO, tinned ofc is unnecessary in car audio. I'm not going to knock someone for wanting an extra layer of protection though
Everything has its place, and you might want to think about how much weight you want to add to your car. I have done my share of unlimited budget builds, and CCA was always a part of the game. Each has their place.
Did you use a sleeve on your strands before the fuse connection? Make sure you get good connections so that you don't get a bottle neck. More often than not, bad connections between components are the reason for such mishaps.
@@AB-80X It was deffinatly the wire, it was on my first install and I paid like $40 for 25ft then later on after I knew what I was doing I rewired my entire system the right way
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
Down for sound owner is down to earth super cool non judgemental your choice is your choice your budget is your budget very explanatory easy going and will answer any questions willing to help even the so called to some as dumb questions no questions dumb everyone starts somewhere and he is one that has patience thats a awesome human being if I've ever seen one we all need to be like this guy got to hand it to him that's awesome !! Good job man thank you for being exactly what I see you the man brother!!🏆🇺🇸
Thank you 😊
You got the story close.
Joe Price went from CCA to all OFC in his 170db build. Gaining 0.0db but 12w total.
Also, we run D4S CCA in the 162db Niro just to prove a point. My Tahoe is ALL D4S OFC.
That makes sense now about running it to make a point. I always saw the post about the nitro and I thought it was a typo, but I guess not. Good stuff
ookboooojookoobbobobobooobokboooooobkoooboojooookboooobobkojjooob
What about heat? I’ve read that CCA runs at hotter temperatures under the jacket. I’ll go with the safer version.
saving 12w? or more sound depth?
Ofc all the way not just that it’s 100% worth the money don’t be cheap people
Buy me some of that ofc wire I'm broke but be kind love help the bass community 😉
Foreal 💯 👍...some people want to buy expensive amps and subs but not willing to take the step up to pay for ofc...🤦🏻♂️
Well ive actually done comparisons myself, an there is very little difference in test i tried. I personally go with ofc because even though theres not a huge difference there is a difference. I've honestly never ran into thermal issue's with either wire type because when used properly they should be fine for the most part. With that being said i guess this could be used as a tip. When using cca get oversized gauged wires or the next size bigger it should balance out an be closer to ofc performance.
I run a Memphis 1k on two CT sounds and the wire burns. Copper clad sucks and it burns over time when it tryna bump. 100% copper u can run 5x the power through wire and not worry about no burning. Bad wire is also bad for fire hazards as well
Grandma's lamp cord has never let me down. Just kidding.
I went and bought extension cords from the Dollar Tree and cut the ends off before. Used it as speaker wire. Ghetto all the way
I got 0g OTF for my big 3 off your guys site. Makes a huge difference 👍 👌
Looks like it was a chest and shoulder day! Hard work!
My dad told me back in the 40's they used aluminum wire for house's because of ww2 and they needed resources so house's were built with copper aluminum wire or even straight up aluminum. House's would burn down because of thermal runaway like you explained. The fuses wouldn't even protect and pop because of the resistance. It's scary stuff. That's why copper for anything electric should be the way to go. Aluminum wire is just garbage. It's like putting a yugo engine in a Ferrari just pay the extra money for peace of mind and safety. This is just my opinion and take it with a grain of salt.
The problem you sighted in the 40's is true my dad said the same thing to me he just turned 93 on the 25th, I think it was because thy used the same gage "CCA wire" then the copper, therefore if they would have used the next gage size up of CCA that would have been less likely to happen, the same concept stands today IE if 4 gage OFC is safe for a given power x length if using CCA for the same power x length 0 gage will be required. PS Also back in the 40's who could predict we would have SO much more power demands then back then I mean the home I'm living in is 40s and I have a power strip at every outlet. 😂
@@scottiffanimccord1509 that's so true of how much electronic stuff we really use these days. LoL oh and happy belated birthday to your dad. 😊 my dad's birthday is in October and he will be 83 this year.
Great job explaining everything,ofc for everything, don't be cheap. Buy ofc.
No such thing as 100% OFC.
I use both, and like both for various reasons. But it is important to stress that most people, like 95% or more that use these, are never going to need them. Now what should be stressed, is the usage of a quality speaker wire with low resistance. Changing the impedance your amp sees will have a much greater effect than the difference between OFC and CCA ever will. Sure, if you are doing real big DB drag stuff, go for it, or if you're trying to use the absolute thinnest wire for ease of install or discretion, sure. But think before spending a huge amount of money on silver coated OFC wire everywhere. I see so many people who oversize their power wires, which obviously will never hurt, and then they either use the thin speaker wire that was already in the car because they can't run new stuff to doors etc. or just use thin stuff because it's cheap or easy to get to the subs. If you think using 7 feet of CCA vs. 7 feet of OFC will hurt power, that is nothing compared to what adding an extra ohm to your speaker wire will. If you're running 2 ohms and even just add ½ of an ohm, that will in most cases cut your power output significantly.
Lastly you might also want to think about how much weight you add. Yes CCA conducts less, but it is also much lighter. In some cars that is to be preferred, and in some places, OFC will never be a must.
In short, everything has its place, and one needs to be smart about choosing the right tool for the job.
Yep I use ofc for my COMPITION RUNS AND CCA TO MY SUBS NO PROB.
Don’t know about y’all but I’m a street and block beater so cca works fine for me shit hell been using cca since the early 90s shit got me threw with no issue before all this ofc now if your into competition then yeah but for my 5k cca been turning heads and shaking dreads!
Good video, while I don’t mess with car audio I do mess with home audio. As for a side by side comparison in SQ the CCA will have a slightly more sterile sound and lack some bass compared to a true OFC. This is due to one reason. Aluminum is not conductive. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance. With CCA you’re loosing a lot of copper. The reason for the heat in CCA is your pushing to much current through a small amount of copper. OFC or a nice pure stranded copper with a tight wind is always the best for audio. Even over solid core wiring. I wish someone would remake the Auvio 12awg again. If you ever find a spool of the AUVIO brand wire run don’t walk, stuff is amazing. It measures 10awg.
What about ground? Can ground be CCA?
I have a question about why high end speaker wire like this Skar 12g OFC, does not have the same shielding as the Premium RCA cables I'm about to buy. The goal is to keep the interference out right?
Use double runs of CCA that might help with the heating issue.
Electric code requires oxidation inhibitors like Nolox when using aluminum wire so I would guess the same is required for cars.
Has your relationship with deaf bounce been affected by the war with Russia or is this topic something you are wanting to talk about??
The media lies about Russia. I don't know anyone who is enemies with a Russian person on a personal level
Short version CCA is less conductive than ofc.
Steve Meade tested these 2 wires on his amp dyno and of course the ofc made more power off the same amp. Kinda cool video imo
Kicker was able to run 2 of there kx 2400 at full power(2400+ watts) on ofc. On cca they were barely able to get 1300 before going into protection. 1/0 awg, not sure if it was the oversized.
@@bigdamn28 Yeah, I remember that video.
Did you see how the CCA wires was coiled up? That's called cheating. Those two CCA wires were basically huge inductive coils. Total B.S. OFC has its place, but that Kicker video is ridiculous.
If you ever see someone testing cables, make sure both cables are not coiled up, that will absolutely kill them.
Extra flex welding wire is the best and its cheaper and pure copper with proper guage size no gimmicks or worries. Deka East Penn makes great wires.
Steve Meade did a Dyno comparison of CCA vs OFC and the Amp put out about 300 watts more power on the OFC then it did on the CCA
That's because they were not paired equally. For a single run of ofc it would require 1.5 runs of cca. As to why i explain to people if your planning on running cca double the run. I have 4 runs front to back in my build of cca and 3 grounds front to back and total cost 300.00 with ofc it would have been closer to 600.00. I ran ofc for a long time and welding wire but cca will work just fine as long as its used and terminated properly.
Can this OFC cable be used as a main battery ground wire? As in Battery to Chasis/Frame of the vehicle?
i'm gonna be running a DC audio 5k amp in my car.. do i need 2 runs of 0 gauge power cable or just one run ?
Aluminum conductivity: 50%. Copper conductivity: 100%. Silver conductivity: 110%. Wtf. Silver must have a turbo charger on it. Adding Silver:💯. Great job. But please explain 110%. Thanks.
it's not a percentage of conductivity, its a percentage of copper, cca is copper tinned aluminum, ofc is pure copper and or many cases silver tinned copper, silver is a better conductor than copper but is also way more expensive, thats why no one makes pure silver cables
@@alanvillarreal2288 thats not why they are not making silver wires bruh
My high power runs is ofc but my speaker runs is cca not about price for me
What wattage would you recommend not using CCA 0 gauge.
What’s best against corrosion. On my atv amp wiring goes bad from moisture.
Do we get a discount count code ??
Thanks for the information buddy 💯💪👍👌
I'm running 40 amps off a solar panel 12v, is it ok to run CCA if under 25'
Yeah it’ll be just fine. People exaggerate the CCA vs OFC decade EXTREMELY
QUESTION: I'm getting my setup together and I will be running (8) d4s-60's and (4) T-25's. I'm wondering would 1 JP234 be sufficient enough or 2?
What power level can o ga cca wire handle ? I got 2500 watts wire is about 14 ft long
I bought some sky high audio 1/0 big 3 upgrade kit. It’s CCA and I’m wondering if it was a waste of money
Not a waste at all. It will still be a vast improvement over stock. You got what you paid for.
@@Brandon_Neil yeah that’s true. I didn’t even think to see what the material was I just bought first and thought later. I have a 2020 GTI and I’m doing the big three but haven’t got motivation because of how crammed every ground and power wire is on my car
what is the defference ehen you use it on a speaker..?
Electrons flow on the OUTSIDE of the wire... not down the center. So if aluminum is "copper clad" then the electrons are flowing over the copper, not the aluminum. i.e. you're getting the electrical benefits of the copper without the weight. What the metal at the center of the wire does is offer structural stability and acts as a heat sink for the rest of the cable. The aluminum core keeps the copper jacket cool. I doubt there's any real world benefit to pure copper and, in fact, it's likely that if the cable is getting repeatedly flexed, that the copper is going to become brittle over time, compared to the aluminum. (copper gets harder every time you flex it) If you want to get pure copper... "just cause" then, that's fine. Just don't think it's providing any benefit. Oh and... if you want cheap large diameter wire... Jumper cables are cheap. Buy some at walmart, cut the ends off... there you go.
Man I'm fucken broke but I need ofc wire I have cca burn wire,but jp ? Can you use like 2or3 runs of cca wire?
That's exactly what I did. I got a killer deal on a 50 ft. spool of 1/0 cca and used one run from the front to the back (20 ft). The insulation melted at the fuse holder because the wire got crazy hot. I used 20 more feet off the spool to have a second run, and haven't had any issues since.
My fosgate bdcp 1500 watt amp burst into flames at the positive power post from my cca wire getting cherry red like a space heater. It was on fire when I snatched it out of my cadillac. I could have burned up my car. Never again will I use cca wire! Nothing but ofc for now on. I learned my lesson on cutting a few dollars......
You think my bass amp clipping when the bass hits I'm running taramp 8k one ohm amp with 2 12 skar audio zvx 1500 rms peak 3000 watts and there one ohm too each sub also running mechman alternator with 3 battery the taramp 8k I have to o gauge wires going to it and 2 ground wires going to it too but they are cca wire and I also have a 5k tramp for my 4 10 tens voice and then my other amp witch is 12x800 tramp going to my doors 6 1/2 apocalypse speaker now my issue is that all my other amps are fine they don't go into protection mode the only amp that goes into protection mode is my bass 8k but when I turn it off and on it cuts back on but I can't raise the volume up too loud because then it will clip and go into protection mode only when the bass hits I have 2 o gauge wires going from the alternator to the battery in the back and front and the back battery going to the bass amp too could it be that cca wire that killing my bass I have. 2008 caddilac escalade short body any clues when appreciate it thanks
I know this is probably old but hopefully someone can answer, I currently am running 2/0 ofc for power and ground. My unibody vehicle chassis am having some voltage drop. I have tried different areas of the chassis and still the same. .5 to 1v between the front and back. Could I get away with using CCA Oversized or doubled up for running a ground from the block and front battery to the back battery instead of buying more ofc and still be safe?
Use a good ground up front which will be your "main" ground so to speak. Make a 2/0 OFC ground that goes from the battery to the engine block and a 1/0 OFC that goes to the chassis. That way you are grounded on both the engine and chassis.
Then run a 1/0 OFC ground directly between the batteries and use copper buzz bars or blocks for ground distribution. Don't rely on your chassis for ground.
Note that your hot power leads needs to be as good or better than your ground lead. Make sure the lead that goes from your alternator to your battery positive, is also 1/0 gauge OFC. From the distribution points, you can then easily get away with CCA. But use OFC for the main distribution network.
This might be a weird question but why is my bass knob with my IA 20.1making noises such as the equivalent to a microphone dropping on the ground, and making my subs not work at all. Does the old school looking phone cord need replacing?
Most likely need a new cable. Just make sure you count the pins/colors in the cord, they make couple different styles. (I had same issue)
@@arok_audio thank you man, appreciate it
Might be worn or dirty.
Battery cable 4 the win 💯
Battery cable can be both
@@DhCustomC yeah but car audio wire is really expensive wait is. I'll stick with my battery cable OFC too and much better.
@@drvictoria07 if you want to save money and still get quality, go to your local welding shop and just buy welding leads. Got 55 ft for 180 with tax. All ofc and the insulation is made better
@@DhCustomC welding cable is regulated too so you know it's true awg size
87% copper 13% tin
Silver "tinned" means melted/welded to the copper strands, not colored aluminum😏
@@arok_audio so not 100% copper😏
@@fusiondensity3287 lol the copper is 100% OFC, there is cheaper copper grades it could be instead. Was Just saying, there is a difference between "tin"(aluminum alloy) and "Silver Tinned" the silver enhances the conductivity(more $)
@@arok_audio the copper coating on CCA wire is 100% copper but that does not make the wire 100% copper just like tinned copper wire does not make that wire 100% copper whether it's coated in gold, silver, brass or tin. That's my point but I don't think it would be coated in pure silver anyway, many a small percentage if any. Probably just tin
@@fusiondensity3287 No such thing.
Even the best and most pure OFC cables are 99.999XXX what ever pure.
Been using cca for years never had an issue 😂
Is it okay if you use cca wire with 400-600rms on 4 gauge wire. Is is safe because I’m barley running power
It’s fine bro
I think you’d be fine even at 1000 rms depending on the efficiency of your amp and length of cable. If you start blowing the fuse rated for that cable, then go OFC or bigger CCA.
Nobody can answer that without knowing what length.
CCA is okay to use in almost any application for car audio, the problem is since it's not as good OFC you have to double up on it. So for example, if your set up requires three 1/0 OFC runs of power from front to back, you would have to use six 1/0 CCA power from front to back. Always double up and you'll be fine. Sometimes after cost though in doing this you're not saving a huge amount of money by running CCA over OFC and you end up needing a lot more space for all the excess wiring. High depends on your build for which route you should take, any serious or bigger build will generally opt for OFC for these resons.
prices?
Good video!!! Like 👍🏼
What about welding cable?
Welding cable is pretty much the same thing as car audio cable. It's ofc wire that's a fraction of the price
@@beardedforlife3740 better insulation also. Made to be drug over concrete, through mud, and can't have any leaks. It's cheaper because it's not "branded" also
That's the way to go
i run nothing but welding cable. i work in heavy industry and i see what that insulation takes on a daily basis. the odds of that insulation melting or rubbing through on something is non existent
@@brendan747 do you still run fuses on your power runs for your welding cable?
I think OFC cable should say what % is Silver. I always have the impression that 100% OFC simply means that the copper used is Oxygen Free.
It is copper
@@beardedforlife3740 True but what % is copper and what % is Tin. I still buy Tinned but always wondered
@@alexisbirungi1745 ofc is 99.99% oxygen free no matter if it's tinned or not. All tinning does is add an extra layer of protection. If it has a silver coating on it, it might change the conductivity but it won't be enough to recognize. IMO, tinned ofc is unnecessary in car audio. I'm not going to knock someone for wanting an extra layer of protection though
@P C most car audio OFC on the market is tinned but I agree
87% copper 13% tin
Ofc all the way
Go up one size if using cca. Easy.
Strosin Courts
1
thumbs up!
Imagine if people made 0/1 gauge OFS (oxygen free silver) and OFD (oxygen free diamond). That would be the future right there.
Lol! dude are you high right now?😂😂
@@deltabasspounder lol no, those are the most conductive materials😂
Yes let me buy the oxygen free diamond wire for 800$/ft
@@therealScopolamine ay man…but that conductivity👀
For decades bass heads been using cca without problems or lithium batteries so why bs
I've been using ofc since the mid to late 90's I never liked cca
Everything has its place, and you might want to think about how much weight you want to add to your car. I have done my share of unlimited budget builds, and CCA was always a part of the game. Each has their place.
"But but CCA is cheaper" yeah but do you want your car to catch fire? Just get OFC.
I cooked the end of my CCA at my output side on my main fuse.
It turned to dust.
Just double your runs of ccA you’ll be fine
genius
But if you dubble ofc😏😏😏
It was Jerry Jaco that did the test
All electric companies in the all the electrical power wires going to your house are all made out of aluminum not copper
At least a very high voltage ones are only the low-voltage ones are copper
I will NEVER get CCA again after I burnt the wire about 2 inches behind the fuse😂😂
Did you use a sleeve on your strands before the fuse connection? Make sure you get good connections so that you don't get a bottle neck. More often than not, bad connections between components are the reason for such mishaps.
@@AB-80X It was deffinatly the wire, it was on my first install and I paid like $40 for 25ft then later on after I knew what I was doing I rewired my entire system the right way
Thank you
Multiple "are" not "is". Intro John. Plz...