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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- Don't get us wrong. The fact that RV's are coming standard with #rvsolar just makes sense, but you're going to want more. Get a professional solar install (or do it yourself) so that you can boondock for longer - you won't regret it. Unless you really love RV parks, avid boondockers should get MYT solar. We will tell you why in this video walkthrough.
#mytsolar #rvsolar #offgridsolar #harvesthosts #rvsolarinstaller @VictronEnergyBV @RichSolarTalk
SUBSCRIBE to @mytsolar & Give us a call today to discuss your ideal RV solar set up - let's get you off-grid. Quality never diminishes with MYT Solar.
We are currently booking installs for August, September and October 2024 in Bend, OR.
Contact us:
📞 541-797-4971
📩 ely@mytsolar.com
www.mytsolar.com
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About MYT Solar:
Founded in 2020, MYT Solar is 5-star reviewed small business, owned and operated by Tom and Ely of @TheDoginUs. We are a husband wife team who want to empower you on the RV journey.
MYT Solar was started when Tom and Ely decided that the only way to adventure and explore the USA with their dogs was to live and travel in an RV. That's when their love of RV adventure began! They are currently living full-time in their Outdoors RV, traveling around doing #RVsolar installs! They have converted their own Outdoors RV 260KVS into the ultimate off-grid, dog-friendly ORV.
We would love to empower you on the RV journey by designing the perfect solar system for your RV and lifestyle. Give us a call today to discuss your dream install! We would love to help. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![เก่งแต่ลับหลัง (FINSTA) - ส้ม มารี (Zom Marie) Ft. Punch 4EVE [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OOolBU2aC70/mqdefault.jpg)
Way better than the factory config!!!
You know best! Thanks for watching Wayne. Hope your system is still performing for you.
We followed your guidance, Tom, omitting solar from our rig, and the panels you installed fit perfectly as a result of the "blank canvas" you had to work with. We second the idea that serious boondockers who plan to build out a truly awesome system are better off with the least amount of factory solar they can get, and then installing panels in the most effective layout possible for maximum wattage. It's amazing that we now have 1,500 watts on our little 19' trailer - 200 watts more than on our 43' motorhome - and STILL have a walkable roof with plenty of space. You are a magician, Tom! 🙌
There is solar, then there is MYT solar. Thanks for the kudos guys. Your install was a really fun one. Did you see Rich came out with some black 250w panels this week? Yours are pretty slick looking but the black on black rails would be pretty sweet.
@@mytsolarCool! Guess we’ll have a fun project when we see you later this summer. 😂
Hi Tom... I have 400 Watts on my roof.. but I only have an old class B style van camper with not much roof space. 🙂 Safe Travels 🙂
400 watts on a roof is a pretty great amount for a class B really. Does your alternator charge your batteries? That would be key to off set the small roof space.
AWESOME! When you going to do a Creekside 19MKS, I am wondering where all the batteries will go and how much solar you could get on the roof.. 🙂
That is actually our very next video. We did a 24v system on it. Keep your eyes out.
So, what size wire are you running from the roof to the charge controllers? My factory starter go power only allows up to 600 watts expansion because of the guage of the wire. I’m guessing it would be tough to run a new wire? You look like you know what you are doing for sure.
ORV now runs 6awg down from the roof to the charge controllers. But the box on the roof and almost all solar boxes are 10awg. So you're limited by that anyway. The 6awg run down to the controller helps limit some voltage drop, but like a weak link in a chain it is the 10awg that is important. We have 2680W on our 260KVS running down the factory wires. You have to play around with Watts law to stay safe.
"factory" parts are usually junk. They lo-ball everything so you wind up paying a premium for junk which you wind up having to replace anyway. So yah, I'll definitely agree that you don't want the factory to install the solar / battery system. Having the factory produce "solar ready" compartments and roof access is great. But having the factory actually install the equipment should be avoided at all costs.
I disagree re: installing batteries under the bed unless you have an external vent and fan for it. Do you? Any sort of failure happening right under where you are sleeping is bad news. LiFePO4 is the safest lithium chemistry available and it is unlikely to catch fire, but there can still be failures and major outgassing events due to those failures. The last thing you want is for that toxic smoke to fill up your bedroom.
Also, really? "Victron" batteries? Overpriced junk. 12V batteries? Are you kidding? That's just straight-out dumb. In this day and age, with that much solar and system capability, it needs to be 48V straight out no question about it.
There is no need to have just one charge controller, particularly with that amount of solar. In fact, its a mistake just from a redundancy point of view. You want at least two. If I were doing an install like that I would go 48V and I would splt the solar into two separate MPPTs going into two (far cheaper) Victron 150/35's rather than a 150/100. And you certainly do NOT need the VE.Can model for that amount of solar. Totally unnecessary.
I'm being harsh but you've swallowed a little too-much of the Victron cool-aid. The Multiplus-II (48, not 12 or 24) is decent, the charge controllers are great, the shunt and bus bars are good. The batteries are junk and whoever managed to convince you to spend $500 on a VE.Can charge controller instead of two smart-solar 150/35's ($185 x 2 = $370) should be fired.
Calculate it. In a 48V system a SINGLE 150/35 can handle 1750W of solar. You split the solar into two of them so they only run at half the amps (which is 1/4th the heat generatieon), for less money, which also gives you redundancy, and now you have a system that can handle your solar plus future upgrades without having to make any changes.
Not to mention the far thinner cables, higher multiplus efficiencies, and all-around far less heat generation going straight to 48V. It costs LESS to go 48V. I can't believe you are saddling customers with 12V gear.
-Matt
Thanks for watching our install video Matt. I understand your input on system design and reasoning. Our customers are very happy with their setups and yes of course we could do 48v systems for the reasons you mentioned if we decided it was necessary.
I heard if you turn down the charging to 100amp. it cuts down on a whole lot of heat. What do you think ? Nice install... you would be doing one on my 24krs but I'm in Ohio.....
Turn the charging of the Multiplus down to 100 amps? Its factory set to 90 amps and we usually turn it up to 120 as with 3 batteries in the bank they could accept 600 amps continuous in theory. Is the Multiplus what you're referring too? Hey take a trip to Bend and enjoy the best of Oregon while getting a killer system installed.
what brackets?
Continuous Resources make a nice bracket