Thanks for yet another great technique video. As a fellow prop builder/ Halloween yard haunt guy in the LA area, I thought I’d share a tip I use, that I learned years ago from a set designer friend. A great way to make rust stand out at night is to lightly mist your final rust paint with fluorescent orange spray paint. I know. Sounds sooo wrong. But totally works. Also looks surprisingly realistic in daylight, as long as you just mist it. And being fluorescent, it helps prevent the rust effect from fading into the darkness at night, like regular acrylic colors can.
Agreed! Fluorescent, gold and silver paint used as highlight or misting can lead to great results that you never expect. Thanks for tip on floro orange on rust! I have taught prop building/painting for stage and we use normal craft paint floro and spray gold . We either spray it direct and lift it off with plastic bags or spray the scrunched plastic direct and tap on prop for random highlight. When you have a prop blasted with a bright white spot light you need some strong colors to keep it from washing out.
You can use salt to weather objects as well. Mostly for a peeling rust look. You apply the salt then paint over it, once the paint is dry you rub the salt off exposing the base layer of paint.
Have you done any videos of a pirate rum barrel or crates, treasure chest etc...? Have one part of my house going with a Pirates of the Caribbean look and need some tips on some props. Great video looks amazing.
since 3Dprinted parts are mostly thermoplastic you can give texture or artificial aging with heated metal sponges and other metal parts (like brass brushes) and clipping some parts like the security bolt and replace them with real ones is also a fine option to make it less obvious it is "faux"
Awesome as always!!! i have been trying to locate someone with a printer to do the bat stantion tops for my haunt. Like the haunted mansion ones ...i have a replica of it on a wine stopper ...how would you get that enlarged to stantion size?. You always have the best ideas!! Any suggestions? im new to this ...just finished Leota in the ball and its flawless...would love to meet you if you ever get to vegas!!! Hope you can help me here!!!!!
@@VanOaksProps I'm going to try this baking soda idea , I like the white tint , that would look good on my sandy dusty props . I use a lot of the dust from the bead blaster too, the fine dust that ends up in the dust collector , it looks like regolith from the moon. Just apply spray glue ,and hit it with an imsectcide duster full of it
Neat idea with the baking soda. For my rust work, I've been using cheap spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, based on a video from Monster Tutorials. The end effect is incredible, but the smell can be distracting of the finished Prop for a bit. That, and the baking soda would be even cheaper in bulk...
I use a mix of apricot ,brown oxide, and kings gold , all plaid colors , I apply the rust color ,put the paprika over the top ,then use the dirty brush water to wet the paprika
The baking soda technique is cool, but I think I like the graphite powder instead. Also, for a quick way of knocking down those layer lines, try your acetone / glazing putty method...but put it in an airbrush. It works amazing and super fast too. Just make sure to mix it in another cup before adding it to the paint cup, otherwise you'll clog the airbrush. Thanks for the video! 🤘💀
Not a fan of the airbrush technique. The time wasted having to clean out the airbrush, the cost replacing the internals as they wear from running the abrasive spot putty through the airbrush body, and the fact that you’d still need to do some degree of sanding just doesn’t make it worth it to me. I’m glad to hear it works for you though. That’s the most important part.
@@VanOaksProps point well noted 👍. In a pinch, look into harbor freight airbrushes. They're super cheap and get the job done for you in a time crunch. Thanks as always man 🤘💀
Has me thinking: Rust, in a more heat-dry, dusty environment, as like an old, abandoned wild west gold mine, would have this color of rust you chose there. It´s rather bright, as it would be constantly sanded by the dust and fine sand grains carried by the wind howling through the depths of the mine. Would it be a more moist, swampy area, like the said mine would be located in a bog/moor, the rust would be of a far more darker brown (like the old metal scrap pieces in my dad´s garage 😅).
Hi Derek, I was wondering if you could give some advice on getting started with 3D printing - I would like to get a printer, but have no idea how much a decent beginner/ intermediate 3D printer would cost, or even where to start looking. Any thoughts?
You may be surprised to hear this, but there's not a ton of difference between "beginner" and more "pro" 3d printers. They all work on the same principles, it's just the bells and whistles that differ (generally speaking). I'd say if you're looking for a good right out of the box printer you could go with the Elegoo Neptune 3. I'm using the Neptune 3 Max (their largest machine) but I've had a really good experience with this machine and have heard similar about the smaller versions.
You know you’ve sold it when the appearance of the piece and the physics of seeing someone pick it up don’t match, causing surprise! Well done!
The sawdust was a great idea! I’ve always got plenty around. Now I have a new way to use it.
Thanks for yet another great technique video. As a fellow prop builder/ Halloween yard haunt guy in the LA area, I thought I’d share a tip I use, that I learned years ago from a set designer friend. A great way to make rust stand out at night is to lightly mist your final rust paint with fluorescent orange spray paint. I know. Sounds sooo wrong. But totally works. Also looks surprisingly realistic in daylight, as long as you just mist it. And being fluorescent, it helps prevent the rust effect from fading into the darkness at night, like regular acrylic colors can.
Agreed! Fluorescent, gold and silver paint used as highlight or misting can lead to great results that you never expect. Thanks for tip on floro orange on rust! I have taught prop building/painting for stage and we use normal craft paint floro and spray gold . We either spray it direct and lift it off with plastic bags or spray the scrunched plastic direct and tap on prop for random highlight. When you have a prop blasted with a bright white spot light you need some strong colors to keep it from washing out.
Amazing texture. I feel like a broken record. It's just that your projects are next level fabulous
You can use salt to weather objects as well. Mostly for a peeling rust look. You apply the salt then paint over it, once the paint is dry you rub the salt off exposing the base layer of paint.
Yep! I have a video doing that exact technique.
This looks again AMAZING! I can't wait to see your complete decoration with all these parts.
Your finishing work is nothing short of brilliant.
Great tips! I'm making a lot to 3D printed Jack-o-lanterns. I was just going to corps them but these techniques will be so much better!! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks just like the mine car wheels from Temple of Doom.
Another amazing job, love the texturing 👌🏻
Yet another great technique I haven't seen before. Thanks Derek. Another job very well done.
Have you done any videos of a pirate rum barrel or crates, treasure chest etc...? Have one part of my house going with a Pirates of the Caribbean look and need some tips on some props. Great video looks amazing.
I haven’t. But I’ll add it to my to do list.
heated sand is also a good variant for roughen 3D parts
some to leave and some to brush off
Brilliant. Love the baking soda method.
I think your baking soda/paint methd for rust texture is my favorite for small jobs.
The white residue from the baking soda is my favorite part. Wow
Never cease to amaze! They came out awesome!
Thanks!
Great job with the project!
Wow! They look amazing!
Thank you!
Almost tossed an old bag of sawdust the other day. Fortuitously, didn't. Looks as though I'll be playing with it soon. Thanks, Derek!
since 3Dprinted parts are mostly thermoplastic
you can give texture or artificial aging with heated metal sponges and other metal parts (like brass brushes)
and
clipping some parts like the security bolt and replace them with real ones is also a fine option to make it less obvious it is "faux"
A very interesting way to add more rust to everyday things.
Those turned out great! Love the baking soda idea!!
Thanks so much!
Awesome as always!!! i have been trying to locate someone with a printer to do the bat stantion tops for my haunt. Like the haunted mansion ones ...i have a replica of it on a wine stopper ...how would you get that enlarged to stantion size?. You always have the best ideas!! Any suggestions? im new to this ...just finished Leota in the ball and its flawless...would love to meet you if you ever get to vegas!!! Hope you can help me here!!!!!
Your local library almost certainly has one to use. And usually someone to help you
You would need a 3d model of the part, which could then be scaled to a size that works for you.
What happened to paprika rust ? With the right paint it looks fantastic . Also garnet sand stuck to tacky coats ,and painted over , looks fantastic
That works too.
@@VanOaksProps I'm going to try this baking soda idea , I like the white tint , that would look good on my sandy dusty props . I use a lot of the dust from the bead blaster too, the fine dust that ends up in the dust collector , it looks like regolith from the moon. Just apply spray glue ,and hit it with an imsectcide duster full of it
That is way cool. Creative skill in action.
They definitely look amazingly real and heavy, wheels from the railway yards 👏🎃💀🧙♀️🎃
always fun to watch with my coffee in the morning, I’ll use this technique on my gibbet.
Excellent!
Neat idea with the baking soda. For my rust work, I've been using cheap spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, based on a video from Monster Tutorials. The end effect is incredible, but the smell can be distracting of the finished Prop for a bit. That, and the baking soda would be even cheaper in bulk...
Paprika , then you don't have the smell , best one is spice it brand paprika , the color is perfect , each brand is slightly different
I use a mix of apricot ,brown oxide, and kings gold , all plaid colors , I apply the rust color ,put the paprika over the top ,then use the dirty brush water to wet the paprika
Fantastically realistic looking 👍👍
Thank you very much!
The baking soda technique is cool, but I think I like the graphite powder instead. Also, for a quick way of knocking down those layer lines, try your acetone / glazing putty method...but put it in an airbrush. It works amazing and super fast too. Just make sure to mix it in another cup before adding it to the paint cup, otherwise you'll clog the airbrush. Thanks for the video! 🤘💀
Not a fan of the airbrush technique. The time wasted having to clean out the airbrush, the cost replacing the internals as they wear from running the abrasive spot putty through the airbrush body, and the fact that you’d still need to do some degree of sanding just doesn’t make it worth it to me.
I’m glad to hear it works for you though. That’s the most important part.
@@VanOaksProps point well noted 👍. In a pinch, look into harbor freight airbrushes. They're super cheap and get the job done for you in a time crunch. Thanks as always man 🤘💀
Those look awesome great job
You've used baking soda in a lot of your props. Over the long term, does it ever dry out and flake off?
I’m sure it will at some point, but it hasn’t happened yet.
I think it would have been cool to polish the part that would contact the rail.
Great idea
I came her to say that. Maybe a stiff wire brush run over it in parallel lines would "scratch off" enough paint and give the correct effect ?
Wonder how a wire sieve would have worked with that sawdust? I tend to get very heavy handed with just pouring like you did.
I don’t know that it matters. It was going to get thrown away anyhow, so the fact that it kinda got everywhere didn’t seem too bad. 🤣
I love this channel thanks for the tips tricks and inspiration
Awesome technique. Would love to see more 3-D printed projects.
Beautiful, as always!
They look very realistic
it is very well done!
i like your videos
they are inspiring!
Awesome technique!! Thank u for the videos sir
Great finish and nice idea with the baking soda, did you sand the parts at any stage or was the smooth on good enough to work with. Was that XTC3D??
No sanding at any time. Just the XTC3D epoxy.
Wow they look amazing 😍🤩
Cool Prop!!!! Nice Job!!!!! Thank You!!!!! 😮🔥👍😎🎃🤘
Great as always!
Awesome job 👍🏻👍🏻
Frikkin amazing!
😮 wow!💚
Hola! Eres un crack , te sigo todos tus vídeos , una pregunta ¿ donde puedo conseguir estas ruedas de mina ?
Muchas gracias
Thank you! The wheels were 3d printed and the file was provided by my client.
🤩 love em
Has me thinking: Rust, in a more heat-dry, dusty environment, as like an old, abandoned wild west gold mine, would have this color of rust you chose there. It´s rather bright, as it would be constantly sanded by the dust and fine sand grains carried by the wind howling through the depths of the mine.
Would it be a more moist, swampy area, like the said mine would be located in a bog/moor, the rust would be of a far more darker brown (like the old metal scrap pieces in my dad´s garage 😅).
Where can I find the file for the wheel? A possible Live Steamer project . Thank You Dan in Longview Washington
It was modeled by the client and isn’t commercially available.
Hi Derek,
I was wondering if you could give some advice on getting started with 3D printing - I would like to get a printer, but have no idea how much a decent beginner/ intermediate 3D printer would cost, or even where to start looking. Any thoughts?
You may be surprised to hear this, but there's not a ton of difference between "beginner" and more "pro" 3d printers. They all work on the same principles, it's just the bells and whistles that differ (generally speaking). I'd say if you're looking for a good right out of the box printer you could go with the Elegoo Neptune 3. I'm using the Neptune 3 Max (their largest machine) but I've had a really good experience with this machine and have heard similar about the smaller versions.
@@VanOaksPropsThanks man! Hope you and Mrs Oaks are doing good!
New sub here. You have some awesome ideas! And make some cool stuff!
Thank you, and welcome!
🔥
Do you sell those?
I don’t
Cool
I think the technique is spot on, but the color is just a bit too on the nose. Too bright. Great technique though!
Thanks! In person it looks spot on. but my camera was having a hard time keeping a consistent color.