How to fix an 8-bit computer with only cheap tools
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- #cheapGear #oscilloscope #troubleshooting #commodore
In today's video, I'll demonstrate troubleshooting and fixing a C64 with only inexpensive tools. No $3000 oscilloscope, $350 desoldering iron or fancy multimeter. Just a set of inexpensive tools that can give you amazing abilities for cheap.
--- Info
Hantek 6022BE
EDSYN DS017 The Original Deluxe Solder Sucker SOLDAPULLT
--- Video Links
OpenHantek Project:
github.com/Ope...
Hantek 6022BE Purchase links: (prices as of publishing)
amzn.to/3s6xqQB ($64.99)
amzn.to/3GhmmoS (alternate, $69.50)
www.aliexpress... ($61.92 shipped)
Hantek 6022BE Product Page:
www.hantek.com/...
Aneng 8009 Multimeter:
amzn.to/3sjpLyx ($27.89)
www.aliexpress... ($24.47 shipped)
EDSYN DS017 The Original Deluxe Solder Sucker SOLDAPULLT:
amzn.to/3HCx62z
My Pinecil soldering iron review video:
• The Pinecil soldering ...
Pinecil soldering iron Product Page:
www.pine64.org...
Pinecil Order Page:
pine64.com/pro...
MG Chemicals - 423 Desoldering Braid #1
amzn.to/3gsucBz
Adrian's Digital Basement ][ (Second Channel)
/ @adriansdigitalbasement2
Support the channel on Patreon:
/ adriansdigitalbasement
-- Tools
Deoxit D5:
amzn.to/2VvOKy1
store.caig.com/...
O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)
amzn.to/3a9x54J
Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:
amzn.to/2VrT5lW
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:
amzn.to/2ye6xC0
Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:
www.rigolna.co...
Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:
amzn.to/3adRbuy
TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM programmer: (The MiniPro)
amzn.to/2wG4tlP
www.aliexpress...
TS100 Soldering Iron:
amzn.to/2K36dJ5
www.ebay.com/i...
EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:
www.eevblog.co...
DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:
amzn.to/2RDSDQw
www.ebay.com/i...
Magnetic Screw Holder:
amzn.to/3b8LOhG
www.harborfrei...
Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)
www.ebay.com/i...
RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)
www.retrotink.com/
Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (order five)
www.ebay.com/i...
Heat Sinks:
www.aliexpress...
Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)
amzn.to/3b8LOOI
--- Links
My GitHub repository:
github.com/mis...
Commodore Computer Club / Vancouver, WA - Portland, OR - PDX Commodore Users Group
www.commodorec...
--- Instructional videos
My video on damage-free chip removal:
• How to remove chips wi...
--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino
![[🔴LIVE] งานประกาศรางวัล MAYA TV AWARDS 2024 : มายามหาชน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nwmWYXXVwBY/mqdefault.jpg)
Quick tip for the ground and voltage pads that have large planes - cut the braid at a 45 degree angle, put the sharp end into the hole and apply the iron. The sharp corner will get in there deeper and it works much better than just applying heat to the braid as the whole braid is over the hole. Hopefully that makes sense.
Great tip! Thanks!
My pleasure. Keep up the great content!
A similar trick I have used, usually when recapping a multi layer board with big planes, is to push a stainless steel sewing pin or needle through the hole, because the solder can't stick to it. Then you just wobble it around in a small circle and it comes straight out and the new leg fits straight in.
Simon's idea is a good one, I've used hypodermic needles for just such an operation.
@@SimonQuigley i've used a piece of guitar string to do this (steel string from an electric guitar, not nylon string from an accoustic, of course ;-D )
I used a soldapullt for 10 years fixing avionics with through hole components. Now that I work with just SMD, I use a microscope and a thin braid: there's almost no space for a desoldering gun. A hot air gun with a small nozzle and thermal tape work like a treat. I also bought some of that Chip Quik you showed in another video and that made a huge difference in desoldering large ICs!
Adrian, this is probably the best video in a long time. The extra effort to take the added steps to prove your hypothesis were just awesome. Love the focus of using cheap tools, obviously not practical for you always, but lets us know you care about those of us who want to try this out without spending a ton of money. Can't say anything else but thank you for this video.
Soldapult hint. Keep the iron on the edge of the hole and bring the soldpult on the top of the tip of the iron, and covering the hole you are trying to clear. Works great, and for really stubborn ones, put the iron on the via on the bottom of the board and use the soldapult from the top.
yep. this is the way. but really the hakko 301 is much better.
@@TMS5100 Even better is when you drive to work to use that Hakko 301 in a Ferrari 308GT (that you just paid off:). Just saying... Co$t is everything sometimes. Cheers Sir ms3bani :O)
@Mark_Osmond. Dang Mr.Mark. If I just read a few more comments I would have seen you ALREADY passed along some GR8T solder sucker advice - imagine my embarrassment. You RoCk.
My issue with the Soldapult is that it’s enormous. There’s a small aluminum one that I got at Adafruit (but I would imagine it can be found elsewhere too) that, instead of a fixed size tip, uses silicone tube that you cut to the length you like, and can be replaced when it gets ratty. The small size fits in your hand and makes it way more nimble in tight spaces.
@@nickwallette6201 I can't argue with your take on the small & nimble. The Pullit is HUGE. I guess the "right tool" is the one that works and does the job, for each one of us. Cheers Sir Nick.
Another great video. Your videos encouraged me to have a go at fixing my Atari ST. To my amazement I got it all working (socketing a RAM chip much like here) and have since repaired other machines. I love the detail you have in these videos showing exactly how to take out chips, what temp to set the iron to, how to install sockets etc. Fantastic, keep up the good work. :)
Only advice I would add from my experiences is... get an old piece of electronics that is unfixable and practice taking chips, caps, etc off it and soldering sockets etc on and off until you feel more comfortable with solder, flux, wick, solder suckers etc
Great info for those of us that don’t have expensive equipment,and don’t do enough to justify buying them I have a Hantek oscilloscope coming. Now I know to get the open source software.
Really Great Video Adrian - I love that you focussed this on amateurs using basic tools. I would love to hear more details about the diagnostic process - e.g. more about what the various buses do and why you expect signals to look a certain way. Glad your hand is back in action. I bet Hantek would sponsor you - sales will probably spike after this.
Quality but inexpensive tools? A hundred dollars or so. Adrian's world-class diagnostic skills? Priceless.
Someone must have mentioned the Engineer SS-02 desolder tool with the silicon end ? That has quickly taken over as my favourite desolder device. Then wick and third my duratool desolder station. Glad so see you back after the operation.
Came here to say exactly the same thing. There is only one solder sucker that's worth having! The silicon tube lets you envelope the iron tip with the sucker, so there is heat contact right through the removal. That said, I fought so hard with some of the monster power planes on amiga boards recently, I have just splashed out on the hakko... 😅
Desoldering machines are worth their weight in gold when working on through hole ICs
I also agree with your choice of socket, the round hole ones are far superior.
Love the shirt, I'd be shouting take my money for a "It Freakin' Works" one! I've been using the 6022 with open hantek software for a while, but it's my first ever scope so I really appreciated seeing someone with more experience make the most of it, some great tips and helps me loads, cheers! Super video for us casual repairists to see you do your thing with our humble tools, so thanks. Cheers!
Thanks for the great video - nice to see the repair from a "normal user" point of view without 200Mhz oscilloscope available! :) I hope your hand gets better soon!
@32:39 The peaks after the trigger is that of the 4th character line of the start up screen (64K RAM SYSTEM 38911 BASIC BYTES FREE) and by the looks of it it is the 5th line from the top of that (line 29 of the screen). The horizontal line of the number 4 is visible but not from 6, 8, 3, or 9.
This is the video I needed! Finally have a starting point to try some probing 😂, so happy I’m a Patreon! And the surgery video was so funny 😂
i know he's getting that a lot- but im really glad i found this channel! Amazing content + i love how he explains everything! Please dont be afraid to take a break when needed!
Thank you for making me feel better about how difficult I find it to desolder things.
It's funny -- I was literally thinking two weeks ago to pick up a cheap oscilloscope that I could hook up to a larger screen for my questionable eyes. Even with the crashes I think this unit plus the open source software is a real winner for the community. Thanks for the review!
this was the best advert for getting a desolder gun ever
Adrian, since we are all commenting on our desoldering skills I'll pile on with a suggestion of clipping the leads on one side of the DIP and the bend the chip back and forth to snap the legs off the opposite side. It's a real time saver on larger ICs. Keep the the great content coming. Thanks.
You've convinced me to give one of these a go. I've been getting by with a logic analyser and a bucket of optimism for my homebrew builds (
Really valuable troubleshooting skills demonstrated here, and with cheap tools as well - very nice video indeed!
It's good to see you back at making new videos! I'm glad your hand is recovering well.
22:50 - I believe the trick is to *not* remove the soldering iron before you trigger the Solder-Pult! Yes, it'll melt the tip a little, but you can buy bags of replacements for not much money.
This!! also I use the old "put some silicone tubing on the tip" trick, that way I get to inhale less molten plastic fumes, and it seals real good.
Also there is something satisfying seeing just how much "solder foam" one of these hand pumps can make :)
Ok, for 60$ and with the Open-Hantek-Software it's worth the price. Thank you for showing this again!
Greetings, Doc64!
Two tips for the manual soldering pump (I have a very similar one): Firstly the plastic at the tip is quite heat-resistant, so it's perfectly fine to leave the iron in place on the edge of the pad and briefly bring the sucker into contact with the iron to keep the solder as hot as possible when you trigger it. Secondly, it tends to get gummed up with the sucked-out solder and flux after not too long, so be sure to dump it out regularly, and also find a tool (like a small screwdriver) of appropriate size to shove down the tip so you can clear any gummy plugs of solder that get stuck there occasionally.
With these two tips, using the manual pump isn't too bad. You can get pretty fast with it and it's great for through-holes. Since it isn't a consumable like the wick, it's a bit cheaper to use, too. I use braid for cleaning up pads/holes once the bulk of the solder is removed, or for the odd stubborn hole, but the wick is not great at clearing a hole that still has a pin in it (if you haven't cut the leads like you did here) which the pump can manage fairly well.
My solder sucker (I forget the brand) has the rod going through the plunger. When you press it to reset the spring, it pushes the end of the rod through the tool's tip so it can't easily get clogged.
@@eDoc2020 Mine has this too, but eventually the channel gets gummed up enough that I can't easily push the rod through the tip without risking breaking the whole thing. That's when I break out the small Philips and shove it down the nozzle from the front to clear it the other way.
When I started working as a photocopier tech in New Zealand in 1995, I knew very little about photocopiers but I had many years of experience on electronic faultfinding and repair in UK. There was one tech who worked on the colour copiers and I saw him trying to unsolder chips that were blown, literally, with holes in them. I suggested that he cut the pins by the chip body and then unsolder the pins individually to avoid damaging the thin tracks on the board. He could not believe that a Pom could teach him anything, but was proved wrong. He did have the grace to thank me later!
Around 52 minutes, the circuit worked after refitting a transistor. (I have only watched this far at the time of posting, so I don't know if this occurred to you) dry joints were a common fault on the Philips G4 TV chassis, most often giving a green screen. Resoldering can fix dry joints.
Interesting seeing a repair with basic tools appropriate for someone just getting into retro repairs
Aneng AN8009 (almost identical to AN8008) was actually my first purchase on AliExpress ever, and I'm seriously impressed by this device, especially considering its resolution for the price. It was really hard to get, or seriously overpriced in Poland.
They also make manual desoldering irons with rubber bulbs on them that are fairly inexpensive ($20 or so) and generally do a good job. They work more less in the same way as your Hakko desoldering iron, in that they're soldering irons with a hole in the tip that it sucks molten solder into, but they just have a a bulb you have to squeeze instead of a pump. Edit: Looks like they make them with spring-powered suckers now, too, in addition to the rubber bulb ones.
Amazon sells hotair stations for as cheap as $50 these days.
Hi - A suggestion on using the Soldapullt a technician friend taught me. Cut a small vee notch in the Soldapullt tip; small enough so the Soldapullt tip can cover the tip of the soldering iron. This allows you to keep the iron in contact with the PC board pads while operating the Soldapullt. I've been using this technique for most of my career as an engineering technician with great success.
Always enjoy the content Adrian
If you are going to use the manual solder sucker, I strongly recommend you get one of the newer ones that has the silicone tube on the end. That can be placed over the hole while still in contact with the soldering iron tip! Excellent tool!
It's nice to see the use of lower cost tools and associated methods to diagnose and repair. This helped me immensely!
Hey Adrian, I don't actually own a C64 and never have, but I find your repair videos interesting nonetheless. I have another possible explanation for why that cassette interface didn't work until you unsoldered the TO-92 transistor. Most BJTs in TO-92 cases have the base on one end of the line of leads, the collector in the middle, and the emitter on the other end. This means it is quite easy for solder blobs to short emitter to base, which would show exactly the symptoms you encountered. Even if that transistor didn't have too much solder on the pads and hadn't been reworked in the past, there is a phenomenon called "tin whiskers" which can affect solder over time, especially after the 4 decades since the C64 was originally released. Due to molecular idiosyncrasies of elemental tin, tiny "whiskers" can grow outward, and sometimes create short circuits. If the current through the short is high they will usually burn themselves off right away, but the low current drawn through that pullup resistor to ground through a whisker probably wouldn't' be enough to clear them away. These whiskers are tiny and usually not visible without a fair amount of magnification. Soldering would melt the whisker back onto the pad, and even probing with the meter might also have cleared the short, leading you to believe there was no E-C short affecting operation. It could be a marginal transistor as you surmised, but heating a borderline one like that usually makes it fail even worse rather than fixing it.
Ouch! Hope you're recovering nicely and will be all healed up soon.
I bought a soldering iron and pump in one that works just like that manual pump, it was around 15$ but it works really well
Adrian once again proves that the most important tool you can own is your mind
For the solder sucker, they do make incredibly cheap soldering irons, like for $15, that are combined with a solder sucker, so the soldering iron itself has hole at the tip of the iron and a pump, so you don't have to remove the iron from the solder to suck it up, which gets rid of the problem if it rehardening and having to be quick. These things are pretty useful for a cheap way to desolder a lot of stuff.
Agreed, that’s what I use. It was a big jump up from a basic pump without having to spend a lot of money.
oh yeah, i've seen one of those ... looked exactly like someone took the cheap 2,50€ pump i bought and taped a soldering iron to it ... i wonder if it is any good
@@KenjiUmino The one I have is pretty good, but it was a bit more expensive and mostly metal, so it doesn’t feel like one of those 5 for $10 plastic pumps. Somewhere in the $25-30 range.
Awesome! Thanks for using the cheaper tools for diagnosis.. Some of us part time DIYers can really use this kind of video!
Nice work. I had to diagnose dead C64 of my friend - same symptoms, hot DRAM, but still not working after replacement. The bus with known good chips was still driven low on some bits. Long story short - both CIAs needed replacement together with kernal ROM. In the end SID was also dead, so SwinSID was placed in this machine. That board ended as test machine then as half of the chips is now socketed :-D The scope I used was something similar like your Hantek - an OWON 4 channel USB scope.
Really like the edit on this video. The 4 video feeds looked great and helped for referencing whilst you were probing. Keep it up!
Great video, I have a tip for solder suckers. Cut a small notch in the tip so it fits over your iron tip. It will then get a bit of a seal and suck air through the board and you can suck the solder with heat still applied. This is a mod we made day one in our Lab Practices classes back in the day
Tip for easier work with the manual style suction desolderers - apply fresh solder, then put the board on it's end, with some helping hands or conveniently located objects of some sort. Then apply heat to one side of the board WHILE you do the suction on the other. Gets those tricky pads much easier, especially on the evil solder that CBM used back in the day. Then if you have to do more than one or two, get yourself a Hakko. Once you get the hang of that, it blows everything out of the water, as long as you keep it clean.
I tried to use one of the cheap all-plastic solder suckers and never had much luck. Adafruit has one that uses silicone tubing for the tip and I found it to be a lot more effective. Because it's silicone you can push it right onto the soldering tip and suck before removing the heat. If you do wear out the tip you can just cut off a fresh 1/2" of tubing and swap it out. Not a Hakko, but a definate improvement
One other advantage is that this equipment also fits in a smaller space. If you don't do this often, you can store it compactly. It's also more portable. It's weird that the cassette problem went away. I did notice that the clocks didn't seem to be working in the diagnostics when the error showed up, then were working when the error vaporized. I wonder if the CIA chip is marginal. Regardless, this was a very informative video. I had kind of written off the Hantek because of the issues you mentioned with the software that came with the device. However, the OSS project that improves the software substantially is going to make me take a much closer look.
Thanks for this great video!
Well, I'm completely sold on that Hantek. It's amazing the difference the right software can make. I also picked up a couple of troubleshooting tips from this video too, so thanks for that.
BTW I suspect I won't be the only person to say this, but is it possible that small transistor may have had a bad solder joint? Could be why the circuit started working once you'd resoldered it into place.
It is certainly possible that it was bad joint. I’m still more likely to believe the AC / unreg was missing though. I need to make sure to test that first when troubleshooting tape issues and I’m not sure I did early on. A real SID would have also not worked so it would have shown if the voltage rail was the issue.
Software makes a big difference for this oscilloscope, because the firmware isn't stored in the oscilloscope, but is uploaded by the software on demand. And because third party oscilloscope software actually do have their own firmwares, not only the high level functionality is improved, but also the low-level functionality.
One of my favorite cheap tools for computer repair is a portable AM radio. It's even good for single board computers and "system on a chip" units. Bringing an AM radio close to a functioning computer will give you noise through the speaker. This noise changes depending on which parts of a program are involved in the main software loop. Anything that causes the program to branch will change the noise, so shorting various pins will change the noise. Short out suspect data and address pins and if the noise doesn't change you have confirmation that the pin is (probably) dead. Admittedly a crude tool, but one that has bailed me out several times when no other test equipment was available.
Congrats on 128K subscribers, Adrian! 256K will be here before you know it.
i hope he does not hit the 640k barrier ...
I almost bought one of those Hantek USB scopes but in the end I bought a Rigol DS1054. The newer batches have all the features enabled except the 100MHz, which can be hacked using well known methods. That 3rd party software for the Hantek really looks very clean though. One of the problems I've found with the Rigol is that the trace can sometimes be very glitchy in the higher scan rates. Amazing vid Adrian, thank u!
I do love the 1054Z too -- it's fantastic for the money .. I think some people just don't want to spend that much for something they might rarely use.
The Aneng 8008 is a good one, the Q10 as its successor is even nicer!
does it have open source software/firmware available?
@@squirlmy It already has temperature measurement in the default firmware, haven't seen any other hacks.
Great video Adrian. I'd be quite interested in a wee teardown of that Hantek, perhaps with some scope on scope action to see whether the higher sample rates are problematic due to the front end or due to the chipset/USB
Can't thank you enough for doing a second video on the hantech last week I bit the bullet and bought one I was really glad you used the new Open source software on this video. Haven't had a chance to check out my scope yet but I was glad to see it in action on the newest software out there it is a relief to see it is going to work just fine for the application I wanted it for. Excellent video
I use a Tektronix TDS3054 I bought for $20 broken. The only problem was the front panel plug was half off the PCB inside which rendered the buttons inoperable. As a bonus it has a module with GPIB, Serial, and VGA monitor out. It uses 3.5" floppy disks for storage .. so retro :). Really like the repair videos so keep them up.
Try this. Place the circuit board up on its side (Hold it with a clamp if needed) apply heat on one side and use the pump on the other side. This works well in a lot of cases.
Never been able to get a good result with those solderpult thingies. Got me one of those solder sucking irons with the rubber bulb - hasn't failed me yet.
You do a great job of explaining the benefits of better quality tools while showing how to make these more entry level tools work. It can be tough when you’re new to a hobby to know what tools are best for you at that time. Spend too little and you might get frustrated and quit. Spend too much and you might end up with something overkill you only use occasionally. I tend to buy higher quality tools used which has worked out well so far.
Pro-tip... the $99 Harbor Freight DM1010 multimeter is really, really good and it has a transistor checker, reads capacitance, temperature, and even frequency up to 10mHz. Highly recommended.
Back when I could hold a soldering iron steady enough, I would clamp the board in a vice, put the solder sucker on the top side of the motherboard. Then I would apply the heat to the bottom of the board. Would suck the hole clean every time. This way you are still applying heat when you use the suction device..
I didn't realize the PineCil had a boost feature. And on top of that, I had been trying to use it at 320 degrees with lead free solder... Also that soldapullt looks much more effective than my cheap Radio Shack one, which I have nevertheless used to general success for a few years now. I am envious of the Hakko 301 but I don't do enough of this to make it worth buying...
A trick I've always used for devices like the soldapult is to use it on the other side of the board you're heating. That way the iron is still in contact and heating while the sucker is trying to pull it out.
Could you do more of these types of videos? I'd love to see a series "Adrian challenges himself to fix: X with only Y!"
I'd greatly recommend the Engineer SS-02 solder sucker pump. I got it when I got my hakko fx888D and it's FANTASTIC. It's a lot smaller than the one you're using, and while it's a bit more expensive, i found it worked amazing. It's also constructed really well. I also have solder wick of a few widths when necessary, MG chemicals of course.
One of your best beginner's video!
Get well soon! I hope you make a full recovery.
Nice job. I think the heat cycle on that transistor woke it up.
Fantastic video. I really enjoyed watching you methodically troubleshoot the problems. Also very impressed with that Hantek USB scope and the much improved open source software. Thanks for posting!
Similar issues with clearing thru holes on pcbs with wick and solder suckers led me to buy the Hakko FR-301 about a year ago. It's pricey but you'll never go back once you've used one. I replaced all the RAM on an Atari 800 XL in an evening with the 301. I would never have attempted it with wick or a solder sucker. Specialized tools are expensive but they are often worth it, even for those of us who only dabble with electronics.
Yeah totally agree. I think for someone just doing once in a while replacement of a chip now and then, these are good techniques.... but my 301 -- yeah I can do 16 RAM chips off an Atari ST pretty quickly. Add hot air and there is no risk of ripping a trace.
I replaced a video RAM chip on an NES in the past year for a friend and I used my Soldapult solder sucker to get the bad chip to slide right out easily. Didn't cut any pins or add any solder. The trick is to have a good tip on the solder puller to have a good seal on the hole to clear it. Then I clipped Pin 4 on the 10NES lockout chip.
I bought my solder puller at a HAMfest years ago.
I have the older Hakko 808, but it works just as well as the 301. It was one of the best tools I ever invested in, but prior to that I swore by the Soldapult. I won't touch the knockoffs. The real one is really the best. One thing that you should note, is the tips are both replaceable, and are fairly heat resistant. I always used a chisel tip on my soldering iron, and I'd lay the tip flat on the pad, and let the Soldapult make contact witht he hole and pull as soon as the tip clears the hole, but while the pad is still contacted by the iron, for pesky pads. I noticed to have a fair bit of delay between pulling the iron and pressing the button. For me, it'd be an instant. Might get better results on the ground plane holes that way.
About the solder pump - heat the pad from one side, suck it from other while still keeping the soldering iron on the pad. You need to put the board on the side so you can access both the top and bottom side...
There are those hand pumps with silicon tips. Combined with a flat solder tip, you can just leave the iron there while putting the pump on top of the board and the tip and suck away the molten solder directly with the iron still on the board
Adrian, Ive been watching your videos recent. 2 items - your soldering should be running at 365 degree's F and you're using the soldapulit wrong. Some solders melt at 361 degrees F. You apply heat to the connection then bring in the soldapulit as close as you can get it and press the button. The soldapulit developed more than enough suction so you don't need a perfect deal. The terminals giving you you problems are cooling off too fast. That's why you need to keep heat on them while desoldering. I've got 40+ years experience doing everything from assembly, troubleshooting and repair and engineering including military contract work.
A good tip for the solder sucker, place a bit of silicone tubing over the tip, that way you can keep the iron in place as you suck up the solder, especially useful on groundplanes wherethose rapid cooling issues occur... :)
Thanks so much Adrian! I've long wanted to do what you do on YT, but I was always sure your tools were WAY too expensive than what I could afford. Now even I can afford a 60 dollar scope!
22:05 - when using the solder-sucker, if you leave the iron on the side of the pad, obviously not covering the hole, but off to one side, you can keep heat in the via while the sucker works its magic. I know of people who made small indentations in the PTFE sucker tip to allow for a good air seal while still heating the pad. I find them much, much more reliable than solder braid. Finally, be careful not to bounce the board with the sucker, as you can rip tracks with the physical movement.
I love Augat machined-pin sockets. Great for repairs or new builds.
Those machine pin sockets are great, another good thing is that you can also just buy machine pin female headers and use them when you need to socket chips that you don't have the proper socket for.
Those solder pumps are a load easier to use if you put a short length of silicone tube over the nozzle so that it sticks out 2mm or so and you can form a seal over the hot soldering bit. You only need a piece about 15mm long - and a metre is only a dollar or 2 on eBay, get a size that is a snug fit on the nozzle end. You also don't burn out the teflon nozzle as quilckly.
Clean up the USB data line by wrapping it around/through a ferrite core/ring. Different mix numbers cover different frequencies to filter out.
MAGIC! That was a great video, Sir. Thanks.
Nice job. Well diagnosed. Shows you don't need hundreds or thousands of dollar equipment to fix things.
If you have something to hodl the motherboard vertically, you can use the pump on the opposite side of the board (the side you're not heating) That way you can leave the iron on the pad.
For inspecting the board, the lens assemblies from projection TVs or video projectors are really good, and they are nice and large too.
New subscriber here . I'm getting interested in electronics mainly to repair my old consoles but at the moment I'm a noob lol . Great videos keep up the good work
Glad your surgery went well!
I'm trying to fix a c64 too! Such fun
on the removal and reinstall of Q2 , what comes to mind is a possible cold solder joint.
Hey, ever thought of exploring the NEC PC98 series? They were introduced about the same era as the IBM PC XT and AT and continued to the early 2000s. Architecture is x86 based but with amped up graphics subsystems, frequency modulated sound synthesis, an improved version of the isa bus and even native support for external 8 inch floppy drives.
Adrian, you make it look so easy.
Ground vias are hard to clear because the ground plain has greater thermal mass than signal lines so it dissipates heat very quickly.
There are two issues with leaving flux on a board, it can be conductive enough to mess with signals. it is often acidic, and over time can damage traces, vias, pins.
Yep, basically it's a good idea to have a heavier duty iron with a chisel tip handy for larger tracks.
It's also quite possible that the transistor had a cold solder joint from factory and that manipulating the board by turning it over a few times while desoldering the RAM and installing the sockets was enough to break contact, but I suppose we'll never know if it "just freaking works" from now on. 😀
Nice repair tutorial!!! I new a new SID chip so I'll have to see which one is correct and find a reputable source! Thanks!
back when I used a pump I cut a notch so the soldering tip could be on the pad and still get a good seal.
Another trick I used when I am not able to remove solder, I stand the board vertical, use the soldering iron on one side and at the same time the pump on the other side, that usually works the solder has no time to solidify that way
Good job! I love tools! Even cheap ones! As long as they work!
Actually the pump is quiet good if you get used to it. Don't worry to burn the tip of the pump and just touch the pump to the soldering iron tip with a little bit angle and push the button, that eliminate the short pause that let the solder cooling, and LOT OF FLUX (like Louis Rossmann said)
The tip on the Soldapult is designed for this and is heat-resistant and replaceable . That is one of the (many) advantages to using the Soldapult over the generic junk
True, it's all about technique. I only have a cheap solder sucker, but it still gets a bit of use if I'm doing a small job and can't be bothered firing up the desoldering station. Said solder sucker has almost chooched its last chooch, so I'll probably replace it with a Soldapult. If the spare parts support and durability is as good as people say it is, it'll probably be the last manual solder pump I'll ever need to buy.
Excellent video, one of the best in a while.
I have a Hantek 6022 and a linux based laptop. Looks like I need to try that software on that system!
There are silicon tips for hand pumps, so you can use the pump while heating up the solder joint. The silicon tip is flexible so it sucks better. ;)
Adrian is a far better technician than I am. And I consider myself to be good.