Arrma Vorteks Boost New 2WD/4WD Brushed RC Car Program!

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 80

  • @cam7858
    @cam7858 2 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I’m not new to the hobby and have several high performance rigs ,but the high speed performance also comes at a price.far greater chance of crash damage, stripped gears,add to this the maintenance and costs involved and this rig makes a lot of sense,as you stated at the beginning of the video you should have this rig for a long time,the mix of a good looking truck , low maintenance and the option to increase performance if you wish are very appealing,I’m sold on one, thanks

  • @redvikinghobbies
    @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Don't normally comment on my own videos except to answer questions or help people out but I gotta say...this thing really surprised me cutting through that rough grass and rock terrain at that speed. Think this is an excellent starter vehicle but I had a blast getting to know it on the first run 👍 2wd. Awesome.

  • @Greentyphon
    @Greentyphon 3 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I luv it i have the typhon brushed,senton brushed, infraction 3s and the vortex boost

  • @MikeS-cv8xs
    @MikeS-cv8xs ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the overview .

  • @jjshobbypower9091
    @jjshobbypower9091 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very nice!! Perfect for surfaces with loose sand . . .

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Or packed dirt. Great car. The rear wheel drive is very favorable to the weight of this vehicle. On road it loses rear traction pretty easy because of how much power it has and how low the grip is on those flat KATAR tires -especially considering the weight of the truck. Adding 4wd would help a lot but I think I'll just wind up going RWD Brushless with different tires. Similar too a lot of 1/10th rwd rc cars. But I love it! I didn't want to do it to one of my 3s 4x4 but for this one it's perfect!

    • @jjshobbypower9091
      @jjshobbypower9091 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@redvikinghobbies nice idea. Good luck with the modification, I'm sure it will be a lot of fun. I'm still playing around with my Arrma Typhon 6s, I play more with the 4s than the 6s, as it is more controllable. Haha

  • @jo2478
    @jo2478 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Awesome video, very informative. Thanks so much. Going to buy one right now.

  • @kcdriver86
    @kcdriver86 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I love my vorteks. I did purchase the 4wd conversion. Now trying to find the blx trans to finish it off. They are just a tad bit slower then the stock slash 2wd but not by much. My slash and vorteks are my favorite two.

  • @louieHuelsman
    @louieHuelsman 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Yup looks good

  • @Naptime48
    @Naptime48 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Just ordered one! can't wait gonna be a RAD weekend! (Black cos my FMS 24 Power Wagon is red allready)

  • @redvikinghobbies
    @redvikinghobbies  9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Here I am commenting on my own video again! I love RC! But posting videos can be rough. Somewhere at the end of this video I had to cut the music out because of a copyright issue. I'm sorry if it's dead air. Anyway, if you're reading this, positive or negative what has your Boost experience been?

  • @mazdaman1982
    @mazdaman1982 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I do like my voters boost rear wheel drive but man it’s flys I just wonder what it would be like all wheel drive lol

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Well I'll tell ya if you upgrade it to brushless AND CHANGE THE TIRES it's awesome. I have 2 brushless and ordered the kit for this one abd never did it. Tell you what. Soon as I finish a few more cars and the Gorgon I'll do it and post it up! Thanks for the comment! Cheers!

    • @mazdaman1982
      @mazdaman1982 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@redvikinghobbies well I am having fun with the stalk engine that it comes with with these Zeee Batteries 🔋 man this this fly lol

  • @pdfjr41
    @pdfjr41 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Can their bodies be exchanged? I love that red.

  • @jonathanmc-smith7284
    @jonathanmc-smith7284 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have this exact same model. But had to wait for the boost kit. Since fitting the boost kit have you noticed the power drop.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes. And it's what I expected but not near as bad as I thought it was going to be. You can offset that by changing the spur gear to a 57 tooth. Just remember if you decide to do that you want the spur and pinion to be the same material i.e. metal hardness. The gearing after answering another question turned out to be different than the 3s 4x4. I think this was an intentional maneuver by Arrma/Horizon developers so that when you did the swap it would still have enough torque to get the car going. Anytime we split the motor power this is to be expected. It's much easier to get a car going fast from the rear pushing than front pulling. It's not bad but it's not great. So after you test it out you'll notice immediately that on flat surfaces, packed dirt and pavement, it's not significant. Tall grass and over sandy or large gravel areas it's noticeable. If what you're running on is gravel or a typical back yard it's not a big deal.
      Eventually I'd recommend going brushless if you're going to stay 4wd on this car. I prefer it 2wd.
      A little disclaimer here about 4wd to put this in perspective. In the differential is where we change our driveshaft rotation. 4wd in a regular truck or jeep the rear is going to push while the front pulls. This will cause the car or truck to buck or jerk the steering because it's pulling one way and pushing another. Front tires that are turned are saying we're pulling this way -> and the rear says no, this way ^. So we don't run them in 4wd all the time right? We only engage when we need both pushing and pulling.
      Okay. Then we have AWD. All wheel drive actually isn't driving all 4 tires equally it transfers power to the tires that need it as you go by a special differential set up. Remember the "from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip?" That's actually a really neat design but has more parts and is more expensive to build, sell, and maintain so trucks now come with 4wd auto and 4wd low and locking differentials by push button. It's how my Ram is set up. But it's typically why you see everything running in 2wd, front or rear, because it's just easier.
      And it's why typically you see drag cars are mostly rear wheel drive with few exceptions.
      In RC we're very fortunate because our simple differential set ups allow us to use 4wd because our tolerances aren't as strict, we can use simple gearing and oil to mitigate those issues, and run open diffs so the front tires forgive left and right over and understeer by allowing inside and outside front tires to spin as they wish. And if they get too wishy washy we lock them up. They're quite simple.
      But we're still splitting the power. So we gotta change our gearing for more power or drop the hammer and run brushless.
      On the Boost in particular in the 200 dollar price range the 4wd speed is acceptable to warrant the 40 dollar 4wd upgrade just for the fun of it. But once you get to going brushless just remember you will have spent what it cost to buy the 3s 4wd car from the start to get there. But you'll have a 70mph car with the gear and motor swap. All things to consider.
      2 disclaimers for everyone -yes this is an over-explanation and simplification of rwd/4wd/awd. I'm hole-hearlty aware. But hopefully it gets the gears turning in other people's heads about power displacement and gearing.
      2nd - in my personal opinion the Arrma Vorteks and Vorteks Boost runs better on the Granite tires. I'm not a fan of these flat and hard Katar tires unless you're running flat. My experience with the Vorteks has been, on both models, that they're quite awful for anything that isn't hard pack or pavement. I also prefer the Rwd to the 4wd on this car. Just steers better. Car feels more lively and fun. My favorite version of the Vorteks is running this Rwd with a brushless and tire swap. But that's what's AWESOME about rc. You do it for yourself. It's about what you like.
      Enough about my disclaimers mate, lol, have fun and let me know what you think after the swap! Cheers!!! Thanks for the question!

  • @shawn6684
    @shawn6684 ปีที่แล้ว

    My bought my sons 2 of the red racing 4x4 I've never worked on a rc truck so much in my life lol I've had to replace the motor 3 times in the one and I've changed out everything. Not easy to take apart to change motor . I will be buying 2 of these and selling other ones . I paid 280 for other ones new each 4x4

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว

      That's really surprising. What battery are you using? I've had a lot of positive feedback on these. However, I'm not affiliated with the company and can't say during mass production that quality control isn't an issue. But mine is in fact going strong. Surprised and feel bad it's frustrated you so much. For what your paying to fix them have you considered the brushless? It's metal gears are true and there's a warranty on electronics on both cars if you fill it out. But they're going to be asking bought the batteries too. Thanks for the feedback. Really helps others in your situation 👍

  • @tbok75
    @tbok75 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This has been my struggle. Last rig i owned was a Losi XX buggy I got in 95 (still have it). The issue i have is, get THIS, and debate on building it up later or just going balls out with the 3S. Now I'm thinking about the boost again now after watching this.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      That is the struggle. Lol. And I feel ya but this chassis is ready for whatever you throw at it. So when it comes down to it it's going to be a budget thing because you'll step up about $140 for the 3s and need a 3s battery or two and of course a charger. Depends on how often you're gonna run it and what your expectations are. If it's once a weekend for a short run this will do ya. If it's everyday afterwork and hitting tougher terrain the metal in the 3s will give you some piece of mind. I really like running this one 2wd. Have the granite tires on it and it's been a blast. Haven't broken anything yet! Good luck!

    • @tbok75
      @tbok75 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@redvikinghobbies yup that's why i have steered away from the 3S cuz it'll mostly be casual running, teasing our dogs, dirt trails camping, this will fit the bill... Question tho, can you run 2S lipo on brushed motors?

    • @tbok75
      @tbok75 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@redvikinghobbies I've seen a lot of videos using the proline badlands tires so giving that some thought.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Absolutely! On the esc there's a jumper you'll move from nimh to lipo to run lipo and that's it! Sometimes, in my case, the jumper was in the lipo position. It's in the instructions if you have any issues 👍

    • @tbok75
      @tbok75 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@redvikinghobbies i have so many questions. Guess i should wait until i get it and most of my questions will be answered cuz... Instruction manual. Haha

  • @morganblu
    @morganblu ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Can the shocks by upgraded to something a little stiffer, without damaging the car?

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Dang. It erased my answer. Okay. I'll try again!
      Rcawd 4Pcs Full Metal Big Bore Shocks Compatible With Arrma 3s Blx Upgrade Parts Shocks Absorber Damper Arrma Big Rock Arrma Typhon Arrma Vorteks Arrma Senton Arrma Granite Red Parts a.co/d/5mZtSqY
      These are great if you don't have stiffeners coming with your car. I don't remember if the Boost came with them in the accessory bag. These will stiffen a stock Vorteks up to 30%. There's a few options of shocks in there.
      You will need shock oil. I recommend between 30 to 40 and 35 seems to be the sweet spot for these rigs.
      TEAM LOSI RACING Silicone Shock Oil 35WT 420CST 2oz TLR74008 Electric Car/Truck Option Parts a.co/d/7cZoMxn
      I'm running stock on my Boost but use these on some other rigs and like them!
      I run Proline on my BLX models but for what they cost you could buy another Boost!
      Hope this helps out and thanks so much for the question!

  • @noelboyd4827
    @noelboyd4827 10 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

    Hey bud, awesome video and now I'm subscribed. I just picked up that same truck and it had been a lil bit upgraded. It has all BLX parts on it with a Traxxas VXL 3s power system but it still has the stock plastic gears.
    My question is what is the best and safest spur/pinion set up for off-road where I can still get a lil more speed without hurting the electronics. I have a metal 57T spur and a 15t, 16t, and 17t pinions.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  10 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      If you're switching over to something like Rustler gearing you can do 23/ 83 all the way to 28/83. If you want to do 3s speed runs. But you gotta go metal and temp your motor and esc. But 17/57 is nothing to worry about. That vxl will do that easy. It's the hardness of the plastic shadts I'd worry about. Best of luck! Cheers! (Also assuming you're staying with 2wd)

    • @noelboyd4827
      @noelboyd4827 10 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      @redvikinghobbies yeah, I'm gonna stay 2wd for now. May upgrade to 4x4 later. Thanks buddy for the quick response.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  10 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @noelboyd4827 Np! Have fun! They're a blast!

  • @Smash_RC
    @Smash_RC 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    First time viewer just bought me one of these. Great in depth video John! Quick question What pinion gear would I need in order to hit the claimed 30 mph

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Actually the specs on this have the pinion at 15 and spur at 91. That's a little out of whack. You'd be better off with a spur in the 50s...like I think arrma has the 57 for this in their 3s, and then you wouldn't have to change the pinion. Or if you wanted to you could go with like a 23 tooth pinion. But anytime that spur is that high that small pinion isn't going to get you very far. It's actually a little high for that car doing tge simple math in my head. Let me see what they're running in a 3s...
      Okay so yeah. The 3s is 18/57. So on this one if you leave the spur alone you'd wanna be in the low 20s on your pinion. It won't have that jump off the line but your top end will get you well past 35. What battery are you using?

    • @Smash_RC
      @Smash_RC 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @Red Viking Hobbies RC thanks for the response. I will be using a 2s lipo 5200 mah. So, if I didn't want to lose all the get up but still gain top speed, it would be better to lower spur gear count?

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @OMGITSJEBUS Yes. There's more to gearing in an rc car than the pinion and spur but to keep this simple you divide the spur by the pinion. So the most common example is 20p to 100s. That's a 5 to 1 gear ratio. 100 divided by 20 is 5. So for every 5 turns of the pinion the spur goes around 1 time. So we want our spur to go around more often to increase speed right? So if you have a larger pinion than 15 to 91, say 23 to 91, we get faster. That's a simple way. Now, if we lower the Spur, without touching the pinion, the same thing happens. But this doesn't give us our final drive ratio. It's just the hobbyists' rule of thumb.
      Remember, your motor has a certain amount of turns too. The higher the turns on a brushed motor generally speaking the more torque your car will have. So on crawlers with a 35 turn motor regardless of your spur and pinion (and I'm talking in generalities) it's not going to be as fast as a 3.0 Brushed drag motor.
      Next you have the gears in your transmission, then the gears in your differentials, and then wheel size, tire size, etc... so things aren't buttoned up just at the pinion and spur.
      However, the battery mah that you gave me doesn't give me a discharge rating. Most 2s batteries for rc cars are going to be 35, 50, 80, 100c rating. They can be much higher in 2s drag batteries.
      The C rating on your battery is what is typically called the discharge rate. 35 continuous discharge is going to be slower than an 80c discharge. Without changing the milliamps. So if you're 5200 mah 35c you're going to be slower than 5200 mah 80c. Especially off the jump. The reason for this is because we're told (there are testing devices for the batteries) that your dump rating, your punch, is twice the C rating. So if you're 35c your dump is approximately 70. If it's 80 it's approximately 160. Huge difference out of the gate! The 5200 mah is just the amperage stored in the battery. So see if your C rating is on there and if it's a spectrum 35 you're gonna wanna go up.
      Hope I didn't confuse things but these are things you're gonna want to research.
      *Disclaimer for RC Freaks like myself - I know that you all know there's a lot of math in every category for racers for the type and class we're driving, and this is especially for you speed demons/crawlers/ and drag guys out there. That's just a basic rundown. I'm not gonna go Raz Shifrin or Exocaged on anyone getting started! 😁
      Thanks so much for your questions and support man! Keep em coming!

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      If that didn't give you enough to think about the Arrma Vorteks uses 48 pitch gears. So when you order your gears they have to be like. You'll see 48, 32, 25, and mod 1. Your Vorteks is 48p. That's from memory so you might wanna check that on arrma but you can order a set of 5 gears in different ranges on Amazon to try but you have to order the right pitch.

    • @Smash_RC
      @Smash_RC 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @Red Viking Hobbies RC Thank you! Yes that's quite a bit of information. And yes the lipo I'm using is a 35c. So I would also need to up that. I'll most likely try to keep it simple and just swap in the 57T spur and up the battery C to 80.

  • @marek8591
    @marek8591 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    whats the playing time with Spektrum Smart 8,4 V 3300mAh ?

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      At max speeds on and off the throttle expect it to start slowing at about 14 minutes. If you're easier with it it'll trail off around 19 but still run a bit. But the average on that nimh is about 20 minutes with stop and go. Can't say I've ever ran one full throttle to see how long until it completely died.

  • @ajlukelepuke
    @ajlukelepuke 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Just picked up this for my 11 y/o niece. Hopefully it'll be tough enough to last a few runs before I have to start repairing it.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Should be. It's a tough rig! That's an awesome present! Thanks for your support!

    • @ajlukelepuke
      @ajlukelepuke 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@redvikinghobbies no problem bud. Thanks for the reply. Subbed!!

  • @DiscoTekka23
    @DiscoTekka23 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I currently have this arrma vorteks.
    I have won a tamiya VW golf mk1 from hobby comps and I want to pair it to match my vorteks.
    What red would you say the arrma boost is just so I can match the paint??

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      This is gonna be the closest from the paints I've used but I know Tamiya TS-39 looks pretty close if you have experience air brushing. But this one is dark enough to not have to use too much or add a darker backer. It's Proline Mars Red. Just give it a test first. 👍 amzn.to/3Cahsu7

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Ts-39 is typically for plastic models like Gundam, Warhammer or general plastic models but their PS-15 is too bright. You'd definitely have to darken it up.

    • @DiscoTekka23
      @DiscoTekka23 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@redvikinghobbies so ps-15 with a black backing??

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Nah. You need to buy an extra Lexan body (or polycarbonate) that you can use on a vehicle you already have, cut off a piece for testing, and see if you can use the black backer maybe after two light coats to darken and then hit it with red again before the backer. The PS line in a can don't blend like the TS line that don't flex. Like I'll use TS and mix it for something like a touring car. You need flex for anything that's gonna flip and roll often. I've had success mixing spaz and duratrax together but I was just checking their colors and I'm not sure how to get you to that color. When I paint with cans I go super light per coat. Just in case I wanna try something to change the end result. Typically I use them for bashers or a quick job. Otherwise everything is bottles that I can mix with my airbrush. I'd go with the proline if you can. But I'm trying to get you real close. If it doesn't have to be perfect that PS is a beautiful color red. Just not very maroon.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว

      Also Lexan is just the name brand for the original polycarbonate. That's why I mentioned it. People use them interchangeably in the hobby but a Lexan body would be made by Lexan. Sort of like saying 3M or Dupont etc. Often companies say it's a Lexan body when it's just generic polycarbonate.

  • @JodyAikens
    @JodyAikens ปีที่แล้ว +1

    No one on TH-cam wants to answer my questions maybe you will see this. I want to order it. But i want to know can i run 2s lipo on the stock system. I don't want to go to 3s and i know it can't handle 3s but i was trying to see if i can just buy a 2s lipo and use it

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes! There is a jumper on the ESC that you need to check to make sure you're in lipo mode but this 40 amp ESC is perfect for 2s lipo. You can find more details and the picture on how to change the jumper between pages of the manual on www.arrma.com Just download the manual and you're all set. You're actually better off running it on 2s lipo than a nimh battery or a 3s lipo for this model. And it's a blast. I believe these are in store only now and on Amazon etc. but to answer your question yes. 2s lipo all day! Thanks for the question! Cheers! (ic3 or ec3 connector required or an adapter if you have existing 2s batteries or you could always change the connector on the esc.)

    • @JodyAikens
      @JodyAikens ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @redvikinghobbies I am new to the hobby. I have no battery's. But I just got the red and green arrma gorgon. One for me and one for my son. His is for Christmas. I have not even opened mine. You got a new sub and I will turn on the bell. Thank you so much.

    • @JodyAikens
      @JodyAikens ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@redvikinghobbies Spektrum 2S 30C Smart LiPo Hard Case Battery Pack w/IC3 Connector 7.4V/5000mAh
      Will this work

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@JodyAikens Thank you! Gorgons are a lot of fun! Congrats!

    • @JodyAikens
      @JodyAikens ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@redvikinghobbies Spektrum 2S 30C Smart LiPo Hard Case Battery Pack w/IC3 Connector 7.4V/5000mAh
      Will this battery work

  • @kle2217
    @kle2217 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    As a newbie, I'm debating between this and the similarly priced Traxxas Rustler. I think the similar spec Rustler gives your a charger and battery for $199. Though the Vorteks you will have to pay a little extra for a battery and charger. Any thoughts you may have between the two options? BTW, would you recommend a wheelie bar on this model of the Vorteks?

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the question. So the first Rustler with a 4x4 option is $300. So you're looking at a 2wd model. If it's the base or the one up from the base there is no 4x4 conversion like on this Vorteks. This Vorteks will not be as springy or agile as a Rustler. The 2wd Rustler is a straight up hopper and absolute blast. Base model can be turned into 70mph beast. There's no shortage of parts to make that a quick car. One of my favorites. I'll never say a bad word about them.
      The Vorteks boost is gonna feel a little slower and not have as much spring in its step but it is upgradeable and since it's the same chassis as the 3s BLX it can be maxed out to some crazy speeds and is incredibly durable.
      The chassis is terrific and the spektrum electronics have come a long way.
      You've put me in a tough spot because the base Rustler in my opinion is a must own car. So much fun. Bodies are a little fancier and a little tougher than the Vorteks but overall there are an immense amount of aftermarket parts for it. But it's best kept 2wd and not chopped up and Frankensteined into 4wd.
      So the quick answer is "How important is 4wd to you?" That's what boost is about. I'm very happy running my Boost 2wd and thought the Vorteks should have been re-released in 2wd first when they did the 4x4. But if you're seeing a deal for 199.99 for a Rustler with battery and charger it's a fun rig. With either I'm going to recommend lipo but yeah. End of day for the price it's all about the upgrades. I have way more time on my Rustlers than I'll ever have on my Vorteks. And I'll wind breaking more parts. They're just great. I'd be surprised if you found someone that told you they weren't a blast.
      Good luck with your decision and thanks again for the question!

    • @kle2217
      @kle2217 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@redvikinghobbies Wow, thanks for your thorough thoughts on this. As a newbie, I can't say I have any feelings about 4x4's, but seeing as these two different vehicles were comparable in pricing as 2WD's and big names in RC's I thought I'd research both. Traxxas and most hobby stores currently do sell the Rustler 2WD XL-5 (when in stock) for $199 which does include the battery and a simple quick charger, while the Vorteks does offer a price where you will pay about $40 more in the included RTR set. The Vorteks body does seem a little bit more "beefy" in stance to me though, while the Rustler has more body color options. I guess I'll do a little more research and thinking on this before I decide. Thanks for the video and comments.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @K LE Absolutely. Any time. And I agree. I like the stance of the Vorteks. Especially in this red. However, although it looks tough whatever polycarbonate formula they use on their cars, all the way up to the 8s Outcast, is thinner than what Traxxas usually offers. There are exceptions to the rule with a few Traxxas vehicle's but not Arrma. They all feel pretty thin to me. But I agree. Vorteks is a tougher looking stadium truck for sure. And the original Vorteks didn't have that look. It was very Rustler esque. Again, best of luck to you. Think you'll be happy with either 👍

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Here's a pic of the original 2013 Vorteks
      www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=IUfTkVPW&id=260969BE3C04521F692177C5B4048447485E7C74&thid=OIP.IUfTkVPWl-Bs2sAtKDaU8wEsDD&mediaurl=https%3A%2F%2Fstatic.rcgroups.net%2Fforums%2Fattachments%2F4%2F8%2F0%2F1%2F7%2F0%2Fai26058167-210-thumb-ARRMA%202013%20Vorteks%20(4).jpg%3Fd%3D1377635294&cdnurl=https%3A%2F%2Fth.bing.com%2Fth%2Fid%2FR.2147d39153d697e06cdac02d283694f3%3Frik%3DdHxeSEeEBLTFdw%26pid%3DImgRaw%26r%3D0&exph=214&expw=328&q=original+arrma+vorteks+2016&simid=607995141563946697&form=IRPRST&ck=C885442529BBA629AA94AE30306F5F8E&selectedindex=72&ajaxhist=0&ajaxserp=0&vt=4&sim=11

    • @kle2217
      @kle2217 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@redvikinghobbies Thanks again for the info. Interesting thought about the thinner body on the Vorteks.

  • @marisharitonovs2115
    @marisharitonovs2115 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi,bought the arms vorteks boost,and I put 4x4conversion kit in,and I vanted to run this on 3s batery and it doesn't run , would it may be the motor what I need to upgrade and the ESC,by it looks like it's made to run on 2s batery only.thanks

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for your question. So the car should absolutely run on 3s. If it's not running at all something is wrong. The esc is this one here, I tried to make a link and will test it after I post but it is rated for 2 to 3s.
      acrobat.adobe.com/link/review?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:33afc110-3bca-3831-a26c-631c672a8197
      SPMXSE2140RX is the esc that comes with the Vorteks. If that link doesn't work you can get the info from the Spektrum site.
      So yes it should run. Couple of notes. First is please make sure the jumper is in the lipo position. Second in addition to having your battery charged make sure you have good batteries in your controller. The motor can handle 3s without question. I'm still running mine 2wd on 3s without issue.
      It would take quite an in depth video to explain batteries so I'm just going to give you the lowdown. The maximum continuous discharge rate for this ESC receiver combo is 40. So a 3s battery that says 3s 30c or 35, or 40 is fine. However, the burst (or dump rating) is 180. So there's a little bit of wiggle room. I've been running higher 3s. The motor specs I don't have but its temperatures haven't been high.
      Now I received a question about running this 4x4 without changing the ESC and decided after which I would reach out to Arrma and they straight up recommended upgrading the ESC. I pressed them about the Boost program and the fact that nowhere does it say changing the ESC and Motor is a requirement. They backed down and conformed that no, nowhere did it say it was required. However, after months of feedback from the community and FB groups it seems everyone is going that direction.
      And it makes sense.
      However, neither your ESC nor Motor wouldn't just not run unless it got stuck in Failsafe mode or triggered a High Voltage cutoff. In the manual I'm attempting to attach it does not say anything about the esc having a bec. But since there's a failsafe you'd think it would.
      The manual is very helpful and if you can't get it, not the car manual, the Spektrum ESC manual, on Spektrum or my link doesn't work you can go to Horizon Hobby and punch in that model number. On the bottom of the page there is a link as well. That manual will probably answer a lot of questions.
      Thank you for yours! Hope you get her up and running!

  • @cherandissanayake9530
    @cherandissanayake9530 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you put the 3S parts for this I mean all the parts FORM THE 3S super clutch All the 3s PARTS ? 😊 I like to convert it for 3s That's what I like to do fixing stuff just see the different... Can you put the video on that please... Please let me know ... Thanks u... 😊

  • @lalitojr8874
    @lalitojr8874 ปีที่แล้ว

    The car is pretty cool but the only thing I don't like about it does not come with a battery and charger

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว

      They do sell it both ways but you're correct. It doesn't have like a "basic" package with everything. Here's the link if you wanted to buy the combo.
      www.horizonhobby.com/product/1-10-vorteks-4x2-boost-mega-550-brushed-stadium-truck-rtr-with-battery-and-charger/ARA4105SV4.html

  • @henrydias3923
    @henrydias3923 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    HEY GOD BLESS YOU. YOU HAVE TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THAT EVEN HAVING THE UPDATE FOR A FOUR BY FOUR WOULD NOT HAVE THE SAME PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL TRES S, BONE, YOU WOULD HAVE TO CHANGE THE ENGINE TO 3200kv.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Bless you as well. Are you suggesting that with the 4wd upgrade it has to be done with the brushless esc upgrade? Because that's just not so. It won't go as fast but the 12 turn brushed motor can absolutely handle the lightweight 4wd upgrade. There's too many companies that run 4wd brushed to mention and it's how we ran everything before brushless motors on our 4wd.
      To answer the second part of your comment, and I do appreciate you chiming in is regarding performance. A 4wd and a 2wd are two different animals and regardless of a brushless upgrade the parts will wear differently. But to say you can't put the 4wd in without upgrading to brushless at the same time is not correct.
      And the Boost program is a good way for people just getting into the hobby to upgrade parts at their leisure according to their budget i.e. 2wd brushless, 4wd, 4wd brushless, upgrading different parts to metal and trying tires, gearing...my point is simply I wouldn't want people to think they'd have to go for all that when it's actually cheaper if they went 3s from the beginning. No. The boost can absolutely be upgraded to 4wd and then get a brushless upgrade later. Thank you for your input. God bless

  • @Deadwindshadow
    @Deadwindshadow ปีที่แล้ว

    Do NOT buy the 4x2 model, you will be sorely disappointed. Not only do you pay for the NiMH battery and charger it comes with, it is extremely under-powered and VERY difficult to maneuver on slippery surfaces like snow or sand due to it being rear heavy. Upgrading to the 4x4 3S brushless boost kit is complicated, takes time, is expensive, and does not include the wheelie bar.
    4x2 NiMH Boost:
    -Non-adjustable steering components
    -Added cost of NiMH and charger which you will not use once upgraded to 4x4 3s boost kit
    -No wheelie bar when you decide to upgrade to 3S
    -Requires the 3S brushless kit if you plan on upgrading to 4x4 boost kit as the brushed motor is extremely underpowered
    -Max 20MPH
    -Cheap transmitter with delay
    -Weak and slow servo
    4x4 3S Brushless
    -Adjustable front and rear driving links
    -Can power wheelie
    -Comes stock with Spektrum DX3 transmitter
    -Max 60MPH
    -Fast servo and responsive throttle
    Better to save up a bit to buy the more expensive Vorteks 3S 4x4.

    • @redvikinghobbies
      @redvikinghobbies  ปีที่แล้ว

      8 hours ago Mark Santa Maria put up his review and yours carries the same tone. I'm hoping it's coincidence. I've actually sold Mark stuff at a swap meet. Nice chap. However for the price it isn't terrible at all in my experience. It wouldn't be my recommendation but not for the reasons you cited all though some are valid.
      The first would be this video was made a year ago, when this came out, and since then it became an in store product only from Arrma/Horizon. I don't trust that it won't be discontinued. So I'd recommend the Traxxas Slash as an alternative for about 70 U.S. dollars more. Or Rustler. m.traxxas.com/products/models/electric/58034-8-slash
      But Slash and Rustler withstanding we've had fun with ours. If you can't afford the 3s, which is a beast and I own 3 of as of now, I really enjoyed running mine and keeping it a 2wd vehicle, and just upgrading as I broke things. It's a cheap way to get a 10th scale 2wd with a great chassis.
      As for the 3s the Katar tires are garbage. The final drive ratio is only 1 faster than a Granite and the flat Katars while good on pavement, grass, or sand, are terrible on gravel and God forbid you hit a curb. The slipper clutch is garbage and needed fixing on all my 3s and in my unboxing video during the speed run you can hear the diff gears coming apart and starting to grind. All 3 of my 3s broke on the first time out. I'm not easy on them but the shocks need to be upgraded to big bore proline, the bodies tear easy, the fin tears off easily, and the tires can't get you over a curb.
      The Boost will not go down in my list of best Arrma products ever but it's not bad. We had fun with ours and the slower speed definitely makes it enjoyable for people new to the hobby.
      My reason right now though for not recommending this car though would be the new introductions of cars out this past year and the probability of it being discontinued. The only silver lining is that the 3s will probably stay so you'll be able to get parts.
      Horizon discontinuing the Arrma Vendetta so rapidly was odd, making Boosts in-store only is bizarre, the Grom as an in-store only is bizarre, a 4s Mojave is an odd and expensive offering vs. the 6s, they discontinued the Mojave EXB roller without ever releasing it in an rtr, they discontinued the Talion which really gives the nod to the Traxxas Sledge, and then they release a 6s Big Rock, which would be awesome except then they released the 6s Kraton EXB which makes you look at Horizon/Arrma and wonder if they know what they're doing. And that's just ARRMA! Don't get me started on what they did with Losi and Axial.
      I appreciate your take and don't disagree with you except to the extent that you make it sound horrible and it's just not. But I want to say I appreciate your comment so people can make informed decisions from real purchasers.
      And for budget cars I actually prefer the fixed steering with no adjustments. It's so easy. And I'd have to double check but I think that's the way the Sledge is. Unless it's something we're gonna race than I think, especially on budget cars, solid turnbuckles would be the way to go. I've spent years adjusting bent parts and wondered why they just didn't make them thicker with less adjustment necessary.
      Thanks again, Cheers!