Excellent example of useful craftsmanship and a creative way to solve this problem without the difficulties of finding the right drill from a trader. Thank you.
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Anything involving the repair, restoration and making of clocks. Books can only provide so much information. Videos such as yours provide the equivalent of hands on instruction.
Great video Matt. I have used drill bits that are the diameter of the pivot and then cut the end of the drill bit off to use as the pivot. But I dont repair pivots too often.
Yes. Quite a few people have done it with varying levels of success. As a broad observation, the slower-moving, more heavily loaded bearings respond better to caged or roller bearings.
In the field of heating and ac there is a gas orifice bit drill set that can be purchased for around 300.00 and the bits are so small you need a good eye loop to see them. Just a thought , but not to take away from the craftsmanship involved, excellent job. By the way, the bit set is made by Anderson and Forrester.
Really useful video. I made a spade drill - and it worked!! I would love to see a video on softening the arbor prior to drilling, especially the the end with the wheel attached.
Thank you for your kind comments. There may be something over on our LIVESTREAM TH-cam channels. Noted. Yours Matthew th-cam.com/video/L2UmavuZ86s/w-d-xo.html
Excellent tutorial! I have wondered how such drills have been made, and mine have always been much cruder than that, tho they worked to a course job. I look forward to trying your design!
@@adiletk.3811 Yes! A great idea. Id the the very best way to begin is to buy the book 'Watchmaking' by George Daniels. It tells you everything you need to know. www.abebooks.co.uk/book-search/title/watchmaking/author/george-daniels/
Hello Matthew, I've made a couple of these drills but the really small ones (0.5mm) break very easily. Of course this is to be expected but even when carefully drilling with a pin vice they sometimes just snap off. Is it because I hardened more than just the tip? Or maybe I'm just not carefull enough. Cheers, Thijs.
Hi Thijs. This is a good question! Hardening and tempering is always a balance between hardness, brittleness , strength and wear resistance. You seem to have the drills on the brittle side. You could only try hardening the tip by protecting the shank with a heat-sink when heating. I think though the hardening process is fine but once you have hardened the drill, you need to temper it to reduce brittleness. Do this by first cleaning the shank of the drill with fine abrasive paper so you can see clean shiny metal. Then, with the drill on a piece of scrap brass sheet, heat from underneath with a spirit lamp. Heat slowly from the shank end (not the drilling tip) and the steel will slowly turn pale yellow, brown, blue etc. When the very palest yellow just about reaches the drill tip, stop the heating. If this goes too far, you will have to re-harden and start again. This tempering process will make the shank of the drill less brittle. Hope this helps! Matthew
Hi Matthew, thank you for your extensive reply. I willl try to temper them as such next time, In the mean while I made a 0.7mm drill without affecting the pivot steels properties, and it has not broken yet. This checks out I guess due to the pivot steel already being tempered, although I do notice the drill being slightly more blunt after lathe usage (probably since pivot steel is tempered to blue?). Your videos hasve really helped my incline plane clock build. Cheers, Thijs.
@@thijsrikkerink6333 Yes, blues pivot steel as found will work but as you say, it is relatively soft so will need lots of re-sharpening or re-hardening the tip. Good material though to use as blanks. M
Hi Tiny. Yes a lathe or turns needed to drill the hole. The pivot 'should' be a good enough fit to tap in. I think the old school used to put a bit of oilstone dust on the pivot to give it some bite. Solder should not be needed but maybe stud lock for security if the pivot is a very close fit. If the pivot is loose; start again. M
Je n'ai jamais essayé ça. Pour une utilisation dans le petit atelier, une flamme à gaz est peu coûteuse, flexible et relativement facile à contrôler. Comment fonctionnerait l'induction ? Oui peut-être à l'échelle industrielle de la production ?
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks On trouve sur Internet de petits systèmes de chauffage à induction qui fonctionnent sous basse tension, en toute sécurité (aucune flamme) et qui pourraient correspondre à votre utilisation, faible masse à chauffer ; ce genre là: th-cam.com/video/rQGKJw6PWh8/w-d-xo.html
You can try but it is by definition really difficult to anneal to turn and then you will need to harden it again. With HSS you would have to grind the whole thing with a tool grinder I suppose. Try annealing a piece an see whether it can be filed or turned. I suspect not but an interesting experiment. Plain carbon steel or 'silver' steel would be ideal. M
I have 12 clock drills from an estate sale purchase. I won’t use them. They are labeled PM - T47. I’d be happy to send then to someone who can use them. Let me know. Thanks,
I would love to see you cover the basics of material hardness for clockmakers. I've put together my meager knowledge in a post (needhamia.com/clock-repair-my-meager-knowledge-of-the-hardness-of-metals/), but it's woefully inadequate, especially when it comes to stones. I think you've covered it all in bits and pieces, and a single overview video would be wonderful.
Hi Bradford. I will certainly continue to discuss these issues and challenges in relation to clockmaking. My 'knowledge' is based on experience though and I would be the first to say I am not a materials scientist. When I started I read a book by J E Gordon, The new science of strong materials. It is a bit old fashioned now but still worth a read. Just read your post. Please continue e journey and continue to share experiences. M
Sorry for the random glitch/text place-holder... :=)
Excellent example of useful craftsmanship and a creative way to solve this problem without the difficulties of finding the right drill from a trader. Thank you.
Thank you
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks❤️
Great tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
Excelente video, gracias por compartir. Desde Argentina saludos.
Thanks for this video. Your explanations are very clear and informative.
Thank you. let us know what you want to see next...
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Anything involving the repair, restoration and making of clocks. Books can only provide so much information. Videos such as yours provide the equivalent of hands on instruction.
Great video Matt. I have used drill bits that are the diameter of the pivot and then cut the end of the drill bit off to use as the pivot. But I dont repair pivots too often.
Thanks Mark
Would be a fun experiment to add bearings to a clock
Yes. Quite a few people have done it with varying levels of success. As a broad observation, the slower-moving, more heavily loaded bearings respond better to caged or roller bearings.
Really well explained and very helpful.
excellent old-school techniques. Appreciated
In the field of heating and ac there is a gas orifice bit drill set that can be purchased for around 300.00 and the bits are so small you need a good eye loop to see them. Just a thought , but not to take away from the craftsmanship involved, excellent job. By the way, the bit set is made by Anderson and Forrester.
I’ll look into that. Thanks.
Really useful video. I made a spade drill - and it worked!!
I would love to see a video on softening the arbor prior to drilling, especially the the end with the wheel attached.
Thank you for your kind comments. There may be something over on our LIVESTREAM TH-cam channels. Noted. Yours Matthew th-cam.com/video/L2UmavuZ86s/w-d-xo.html
Brilliant !!!!! Thank you really good and informative
Really excellent video - very instructive. Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you.
This was so informative. I cant wait to try this out. Thank you
Thanks for the positive comments.
Have you checked out or Open Clock Club channel?
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks No but I'm going straight there now
Excellent tutorial!
I have wondered how such drills have been made, and mine have always been much cruder than that, tho they worked to a course job.
I look forward to trying your design!
thanks Jeffrey. Good luck making your drills! M
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks excuse me can you help me with tolerances and accuracy i want to desig watch?
@@adiletk.3811 Yes! A great idea. Id the the very best way to begin is to buy the book 'Watchmaking' by George Daniels. It tells you everything you need to know. www.abebooks.co.uk/book-search/title/watchmaking/author/george-daniels/
Hello Matthew, I've made a couple of these drills but the really small ones (0.5mm) break very easily. Of course this is to be expected but even when carefully drilling with a pin vice they sometimes just snap off. Is it because I hardened more than just the tip? Or maybe I'm just not carefull enough. Cheers, Thijs.
Hi Thijs. This is a good question! Hardening and tempering is always a balance between hardness, brittleness , strength and wear resistance. You seem to have the drills on the brittle side. You could only try hardening the tip by protecting the shank with a heat-sink when heating. I think though the hardening process is fine but once you have hardened the drill, you need to temper it to reduce brittleness. Do this by first cleaning the shank of the drill with fine abrasive paper so you can see clean shiny metal. Then, with the drill on a piece of scrap brass sheet, heat from underneath with a spirit lamp. Heat slowly from the shank end (not the drilling tip) and the steel will slowly turn pale yellow, brown, blue etc. When the very palest yellow just about reaches the drill tip, stop the heating. If this goes too far, you will have to re-harden and start again. This tempering process will make the shank of the drill less brittle. Hope this helps! Matthew
Hi Matthew, thank you for your extensive reply. I willl try to temper them as such next time, In the mean while I made a 0.7mm drill without affecting the pivot steels properties, and it has not broken yet. This checks out I guess due to the pivot steel already being tempered, although I do notice the drill being slightly more blunt after lathe usage (probably since pivot steel is tempered to blue?). Your videos hasve really helped my incline plane clock build. Cheers, Thijs.
@@thijsrikkerink6333 Yes, blues pivot steel as found will work but as you say, it is relatively soft so will need lots of re-sharpening or re-hardening the tip. Good material though to use as blanks. M
Thank you Matthew. Is the new pivot a pinch fit or should it be soldered in? Presumably you need a lathe to drill the hole, if not to make the drill
Hi Tiny. Yes a lathe or turns needed to drill the hole. The pivot 'should' be a good enough fit to tap in. I think the old school used to put a bit of oilstone dust on the pivot to give it some bite. Solder should not be needed but maybe stud lock for security if the pivot is a very close fit. If the pivot is loose; start again. M
Nice, I made a few same kind of drills a few weeks ago in my local watchmaking school :)
Great! Good luck with the watchmaking.
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Thank you :) it is going to be an interesting journey!
muito boa explanação, parabéns pelo excelente trabalho🌱🌎⌚
Gracias por tu amable comentario. Apreciado. Mateo
Très intéressant. Pour chauffer la pièce, ne serait il pas plus pratique d'utiliser le chauffage à induction ?
Je n'ai jamais essayé ça. Pour une utilisation dans le petit atelier, une flamme à gaz est peu coûteuse, flexible et relativement facile à contrôler. Comment fonctionnerait l'induction ? Oui peut-être à l'échelle industrielle de la production ?
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks On trouve sur Internet de petits systèmes de chauffage à induction qui fonctionnent sous basse tension, en toute sécurité (aucune flamme) et qui pourraient correspondre à votre utilisation, faible masse à chauffer ; ce genre là:
th-cam.com/video/rQGKJw6PWh8/w-d-xo.html
@@myr415 A merci. Matthew
That’s blue steel for pivot to make a drill is it , can I use a hss drill shank of 0.8mm for this application , thank Mathew
You can try but it is by definition really difficult to anneal to turn and then you will need to harden it again. With HSS you would have to grind the whole thing with a tool grinder I suppose. Try annealing a piece an see whether it can be filed or turned. I suspect not but an interesting experiment. Plain carbon steel or 'silver' steel would be ideal. M
amazing.
Your voice look like Roger Smiths voice))
I have 12 clock drills from an estate sale purchase. I won’t use them. They are labeled PM - T47. I’d be happy to send then to someone who can use them. Let me know. Thanks,
maravilloso
Thank you
Penion 8pins
I would love to see you cover the basics of material hardness for clockmakers. I've put together my meager knowledge in a post (needhamia.com/clock-repair-my-meager-knowledge-of-the-hardness-of-metals/), but it's woefully inadequate, especially when it comes to stones. I think you've covered it all in bits and pieces, and a single overview video would be wonderful.
Hi Bradford. I will certainly continue to discuss these issues and challenges in relation to clockmaking. My 'knowledge' is based on experience though and I would be the first to say I am not a materials scientist. When I started I read a book by J E Gordon, The new science of strong materials. It is a bit old fashioned now but still worth a read. Just read your post. Please continue e journey and continue to share experiences. M