Steve's saw may run smooth for a few hours, but the proper way to install bearings does not involve beating on outer races with any kind of hammer. This causes brinnelling of the races by the heavy ball contact. These small indentations will become larger with time and eventually cause premature bearing failure. See youtube video of bearing installation on contractors saw for proper installation technique.
I mounted a pipe clamp horizontally in my vise to use as a press. Fit in the clamp, pressing against a piece of copper pipe that fits on the inner race (as in the video) and the arbor end works great without putting any stress on the bearing. Same goes for the back bearing. Just use a round piece of wood that fits against the outer and inner race at the same time. You can cut the wood with a hole saw.
The correct pushers and an arbor press is the correct way to install bearings. Hammers and water pipe and wood will only shorten the life of a bearing. It is far better and less expensive to do the job right than to do it over. My shop installs these bearings for $60 PPD through E-bay.
I found that on mine there was a ring that screwed down on the outer bearing to hold it in place It had to be removed before the bearing could come out of the casting. I agree paying someone $60 dollars plus postage is crazy.
Great video series. I just installed new bearings on the same year saw. How tight is the nut installed on the end of away from the arbor flange? I also have a ring nut that gets installed last around that same nut.
You've now shown us how virtuous you are. But not many of us have a press, so I must say that I appreciate Shanesy's DIY approach and a lesson in how the task can be accomplished with a bit of caution.
Steve's saw may run smooth for a few hours, but the proper way to install bearings does not involve beating on outer races with any kind of hammer. This causes brinnelling of the races by the heavy ball contact. These small indentations will become larger with time and eventually cause premature bearing failure. See youtube video of bearing installation on contractors saw for proper installation technique.
I mounted a pipe clamp horizontally in my vise to use as a press. Fit in the clamp, pressing against a piece of copper pipe that fits on the inner race (as in the video) and the arbor end works great without putting any stress on the bearing. Same goes for the back bearing. Just use a round piece of wood that fits against the outer and inner race at the same time. You can cut the wood with a hole saw.
The correct pushers and an arbor press is the correct way to install bearings. Hammers and water pipe and wood will only shorten the life of a bearing. It is far better and less expensive to do the job right than to do it over. My shop installs these bearings for $60 PPD through E-bay.
I found that on mine there was a ring that screwed down on the outer bearing to hold it in place It had to be removed before the bearing could come out of the casting. I agree paying someone $60 dollars plus postage is crazy.
It seems that the special washer that has a small tab was installed the wrong way. It's cupped and the cup should face up instead of down.
you can also use the 'microwave trick' and heat the bearing first - you'll still have to whack it on but it should be persuaded much more easily
Did you forget to install the belts?
Great video series. I just installed new bearings on the same year saw. How tight is the nut installed on the end of away from the arbor flange? I also have a ring nut that gets installed last around that same nut.
I'm no fan of beating a bearing into place. Use a press!
You've now shown us how virtuous you are. But not many of us have a press, so I must say that I appreciate Shanesy's DIY approach and a lesson in how the task can be accomplished with a bit of caution.
You've got the key in. Not the key way.
How not to replace arbor bearings. This method is so completely wrong that I'm amazed Delta sponsored it. Unbelievable.