Although architecture photography is just a hobby for me I always enjoy your videos. Please make them as often as you can. I especially appreciate that you use thery established approaches from painting, analyse them and use them in photography.
Fantastic video Steven. I’ve taken your online course and read the e book. These short videos are a great refresher and I always pick up something new.
Good as ever, and very educational. Thanks for sharing you insights! (I bought the eBook, but these videos are still helpful. Have you thought about channel memberships on YT?)
Mr. Brooke, grateful for yet another wonderful video! Currently working on a photo project BACK ROADS - it’s about rural areas (which includes photographs of architectural structures - barns, houses, farms etc). Often trying to include rural BACK ROADS in my shots - just like you suggest - to create a sense of entrance.
Thank you so much for drawing the essence out of complex field in so few minutes. You manage to boil it all down so that it is easy to see and understand your points. Bravo. I am very interested in architectural photography and have learned alot from your presentations, they're are awesome. Thank you. 😊🎉 I'll have a look at your course.
Excellent video yet again Steven. Your knowledge expands my mind. Like your book which I highly recommend to everyone. Always a joyful notification when it comes from you.
this is a very important video for video blocking ... so much good information here ! How did you find that Puerto Rico photo location ?? That does not just present itself.
Hello Steven, I don't understand why we shouldn't place the diagonal lines the are vanishing exactly in the corners of the photo. Do you think this prevents us from entering the image ? Do you have specific examples ? I ask these questions because sometimes I place the diagonals in the corners. And I like it, my architectural clients also.
In the examples shown in the video, terminating the diagonals at the corners calls attention to the frame, itself, which is not what I want to do. Occasionally this might work with a very tight detail. But, in general, I try my best to avoid it either shooting or in post-production. If the diagonals converge on either of the bottom corners, then, yes, that can divert attention from whatever entrance you have created to draw you viewer into the shot.
Hi Steven, I am curious about any painters whose work I can study to get better at architecture photography. I would really appreciate some recommendations. Thank you.
Throughout these videos I have cited the work of painters and engravers whose work informs architectural photography. If you would like all of this information in one place, I encourage you to purchase a copy of my Architectural Photography and Composition book.
Hi Steven, in the last days I was offered a really big architecture photography job and thankfully found your channel to help me study it. I would love if you could help me with a few questions that I have. I have a fujifilm xh2s (which I love) and I think it produces really high quality pictures but I'm kinda insecure about it being aps-c. I have 5k to spend on gear and I don't know if I should buy a full frame sony and new lenses or just keep my camera and invest in really high quality glass and acessories. I'm thinking in buying the laowa shift lens (its more budget friendly). What do you think? I'm worried that a wide angle that does have to be even more wide because my camera is aps c will have way more distortion than a "normal" wide for a full frame camera. Thank you for you time. (Planning on buying your course next week so I can continue to improve)
Your camera is totally adequate for what you wish to do. From the reviews I read, that sensor is highly regarded. However, the 1.5 crop factor means that you will probably need a 16mm lens to have the equivalent of a 24mm lens on a full-frame camera. As I have suggested to other photographers, explore to the fullest what you are able to do with your existing equipment. Then, you will see what you actually need. As I just mentioned to another member of our community, without a TS lens, you will have to rectify verticals in photoshop. Knowing that, plan ahead and include more material on the sides that you will eventually lose when you align the verticals. If you have to tip your camera up to get the top of a building, try to at least keep the horizontals parallel to the picture plane to avoid yet another level of distortion. I would read through the reviews of the Iaowa shift lenses. You are correct in assuming that there would be some significant distortion with that lens and your current camera. I have not used either and can’t offer further advice. In that price range, I suggested a full-frame camera (Canon, Nikon) and their 24mm perspective control lens as the workhorse for what we do.
@@stevenbrookephotography thank you so much for your words and advice, Steven. I'm really enjoying your videos and learning a lot from them! I have been practicing and trying to learn the best way to make the most with what I have! Do you think I should invest the budget (5k) in some good ultra wides instead of making the switch to full frame? Very thankful for your time.
When it comes to purchasing equipment, it is always best to take your time and analyze what you REALLY need. That said, if I were seriously interested in architectural photography as my primary business or a significant part of my existing business and I were starting from scratch, I would look at one of the Canon mirrorless cameras and a 24mm perspective control lens. Next lens would be a 17mm PC lens, followed by a 24-105 Zoom. Those three lenses cover 95% of what I do in the field. Again, take your time in deciding what you really need.
@@stevenbrookephotography thank you so much Steven! I going to think about it and analyze everything before deciding. Keep up the awesome work and thank you for your videos! They help a lot!
thank you Steven, these are academic worthy teachings
Although architecture photography is just a hobby for me I always enjoy your videos. Please make them as often as you can.
I especially appreciate that you use thery established approaches from painting, analyse them and use them in photography.
Fantastic video Steven. I’ve taken your online course and read the e book. These short videos are a great refresher and I always pick up something new.
I learn more from these videos than any book. Thank you!
Good as ever, and very educational. Thanks for sharing you insights! (I bought the eBook, but these videos are still helpful. Have you thought about channel memberships on YT?)
Excellent lesson, thank you. I learned a great deal and enjoy your teaching method. Your photographs are truly excellent also.
You are such a great educator, thank you!
Tons of great advice! I always appreciate your efforts in helping me become better. Many thanks?
Thank you so much for posting these Steven!
Just really interesting and unique work on photography. Thanks.
Love this, also the book is well worth it.
Mr. Brooke, grateful for yet another wonderful video! Currently working on a photo project BACK ROADS - it’s about rural areas (which includes photographs of architectural structures - barns, houses, farms etc). Often trying to include rural BACK ROADS in my shots - just like you suggest - to create a sense of entrance.
Good luck with this project. As rural areas become increasingly developed, your archive will be invaluable.
Photograph in color; but consider b/w for any public presentation.
fascinating as always. what a well of profound information and provided tools for use in our daily work. Thank you Steven!
Amazing video, very helpful!
Thank you so much for drawing the essence out of complex field in so few minutes. You manage to boil it all down so that it is easy to see and understand your points. Bravo. I am very interested in architectural photography and have learned alot from your presentations, they're are awesome. Thank you. 😊🎉 I'll have a look at your course.
Thank you for your note. Glad that these videos are helpful to you.
Great advice, Steven. Many thanks
Another great one, Steven!
Great helpful information, thank you Steven.
Great insight as usual. Thank you!
Again, thank you.
Very helpful!
thanks so much!
Damnnnn you are absolutely awesome...well appreciated
Thank you, Richard. I'm pleased you enjoyed the video.
Great images and insight. Thanks.
Very good advices!
thanks for the insights
Thank you!
Excellent video yet again Steven. Your knowledge expands my mind. Like your book which I highly recommend to everyone. Always a joyful notification when it comes from you.
Thank you, Beno!
this is a very important video for video blocking ... so much good information here !
How did you find that Puerto Rico photo location ?? That does not just present itself.
That location was on the grounds of the Bahia Beach Resort, which I was photographing for a US client.
New sub here - best content I’ve found!!
Thank you. Welcome!
Assisi, so good
Very instructive; thank you ‼️
Hello Steven, I don't understand why we shouldn't place the diagonal lines the are vanishing exactly in the corners of the photo. Do you think this prevents us from entering the image ? Do you have specific examples ?
I ask these questions because sometimes I place the diagonals in the corners. And I like it, my architectural clients also.
In the examples shown in the video, terminating the diagonals at the corners calls attention to the frame, itself, which is not what I want to do. Occasionally this might work with a very tight detail. But, in general, I try my best to avoid it either shooting or in post-production. If the diagonals converge on either of the bottom corners, then, yes, that can divert attention from whatever entrance you have created to draw you viewer into the shot.
Hi Steven, I am curious about any painters whose work I can study to get better at architecture photography. I would really appreciate some recommendations. Thank you.
Throughout these videos I have cited the work of painters and engravers whose work informs architectural photography. If you would like all of this information in one place, I encourage you to purchase a copy of my Architectural Photography and Composition book.
@@stevenbrookephotography Perfect. Thank You!
@@stevenbrookephotography Your book has proven to be very helpful.
Hi Steven, in the last days I was offered a really big architecture photography job and thankfully found your channel to help me study it. I would love if you could help me with a few questions that I have.
I have a fujifilm xh2s (which I love) and I think it produces really high quality pictures but I'm kinda insecure about it being aps-c. I have 5k to spend on gear and I don't know if I should buy a full frame sony and new lenses or just keep my camera and invest in really high quality glass and acessories.
I'm thinking in buying the laowa shift lens (its more budget friendly). What do you think? I'm worried that a wide angle that does have to be even more wide because my camera is aps c will have way more distortion than a "normal" wide for a full frame camera.
Thank you for you time.
(Planning on buying your course next week so I can continue to improve)
Your camera is totally adequate for what you wish to do. From the reviews I read, that sensor is highly regarded. However, the 1.5 crop factor means that you will probably need a 16mm lens to have the equivalent of a 24mm lens on a full-frame camera.
As I have suggested to other photographers, explore to the fullest what you are able to do with your existing equipment. Then, you will see what you actually need. As I just mentioned to another member of our community, without a TS lens, you will have to rectify verticals in photoshop. Knowing that, plan ahead and include more material on the sides that you will eventually lose when you align the verticals. If you have to tip your camera up to get the top of a building, try to at least keep the horizontals parallel to the picture plane to avoid yet another level of distortion.
I would read through the reviews of the Iaowa shift lenses. You are correct in assuming that there would be some significant distortion with that lens and your current camera. I have not used either and can’t offer further advice.
In that price range, I suggested a full-frame camera (Canon, Nikon) and their 24mm perspective control lens as the workhorse for what we do.
@@stevenbrookephotography thank you so much for your words and advice, Steven. I'm really enjoying your videos and learning a lot from them! I have been practicing and trying to learn the best way to make the most with what I have! Do you think I should invest the budget (5k) in some good ultra wides instead of making the switch to full frame? Very thankful for your time.
When it comes to purchasing equipment, it is always best to take your time and analyze what you REALLY need. That said, if I were seriously interested in architectural photography as my primary business or a significant part of my existing business and I were starting from scratch, I would look at one of the Canon mirrorless cameras and a 24mm perspective control lens. Next lens would be a 17mm PC lens, followed by a 24-105 Zoom. Those three lenses cover 95% of what I do in the field. Again, take your time in deciding what you really need.
@@stevenbrookephotography thank you so much Steven! I going to think about it and analyze everything before deciding. Keep up the awesome work and thank you for your videos! They help a lot!