I don't know why I never said thank you a couple years ago when I first watched this video... So THANK YOU‼This is such a hidden gem for growing mangoes. No regurgitated BS. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Out of curiosity what all tropicals do you have growing over there? What kind of temperatures do you see in the winters? That seems to be the killer over here for tropicals is our winter lows
I just moved here from Seattle. Someone suggested I try growing some tropicals. I ordered a couple Mangos online. One is growing nicely JP here in Vistancia. 3 others have shipped and died shortly thereafter. If you have a local nursery that sells good Mango Trees you might point me in the right direction. Thanks!! Rod
@@FruitTree Longtime Las Vegas native, Suns fan since 92, and persistently frustrated mango/avocado grower. Doing an experiement where I'm trying some polyembryonic mangos from seed to see if they tolerate our conditions better instead of whatever rootstock is used in grafting. Going to follow your tips to see if I have better success.
I am a new subscriber as of today. Great information. I am trying to grow mangoes again. I killed the first two plants. One of the plants have brown leaves and the other is green. They are planted under a tree with mostly full sun.
Thanks you Brian for all the tips in growing mangos. I can grow mangos from seeds but it never servive past 2 years. I will try adding sulfur and change it locations. I never taste fresh picked mangos before, but I'm sure it is tasty than grocery garbage mangos. Are your jujube fruits rip yet?
Great video. Have you seen the mango farm in Thermal, CA (coachella valley)? Also, I'm growing manilla mango which they say is the toughest mango for the CA. I live in Palm Springs, CA and I have a manilla mango. It's doubled in size in one year.
Thank you for the very informative video. I’m new to the valley, Waddell area and planted several fruit trees this past fall and early spring. I’d like to also try growing a mango. I need to test my soil, can you tell me what kind of tester you have and where you got it. Thanks.
Hi! Great info thank you! Can you clarify about not eating the first fruits? First timer here in far west valley. Manila mango - so from what I’m getting - it will flower then fruit and do we cut it off before it flowers or before fruit or not pick it? TIA
For thr fist year or two cut the flowers off shortly after the small mangos form. This will be past the time it wants to shoot out more flowers and will put its energy to grow its leaves and roots
Stumbled across your channel looking for people growing fruit in the desert and your content is great! I have noticed that a lot of people growing in the desert and making videos usually end up moving out of the dessert pretty fast. You mentioned mangos being slightly easier than avocados, have you tried to grow avocados in Arizona?
Such a wealth of information! Always good to learn from one’s mistakes. I just bought a 1 gallon mango tree from a local person selling it. I have it in a cloth container under a shade cloth. The dirt is a mix I bought with compost. I’m in the heat of San Antonio TX. The little tree seems to be doing ok. I have noticed a couple of leaves are getting rusty in color. What could that mean?
I really don't do much here in Florida. Mangos do fantastic because of the Tropical Climate They practically take care of them selves. I do not use any fertilizers at all. My Mangos are naturally healthy.😊
Thank you for all the information about growing mangos. I just started to growing mangos first time. I have a question about the first year fruits which you are mentioning in this video. I just found my Cat Hoa Loc tree getting flowers. The tree I brought is 7 gallon pot grafted Cat Hoa Loc mango tree this June. I repoted to 15 gallon pot. Tree grow to 4 feet tall, the trunk circumference about 5 inches. So…should I keep the flower or cut it out? If you could give me some advice I would appreciate it. Thank you.
I planted a Manila mango here in the San Diego foothills. Poor guy is just stuck. In four years it's grown maybe 8 inches. Every spring, it gets lots of growth but it new stuff always dies and falls off. I've tried more water, less water, fertilizer, wood chips around the base, nothing seems to help. It hasn't died, but that's about it. I'll try the evening shade suggestion. It gets hot and the sun is pretty bad out here.
So don’t water everyday for 30 mins, got it. How often should I water for then, and how long??? What was your water schedule to get those big mango trees???
I wish I had that level of dedication. I would try to do it every 6 weeks or so. The main source of food was actually constant dumps of wood chips. They break down and works come in a create castings. They also help hold water and micro nutrients
I live in Phoenix and I planted one polyembryonic mango seedling and one grafted mango tree. Your trees in the background look very healthy. However, now I have heard that though you can grow healthy looking mango trees in this area expect low production of fruit. Have you found this to be true?
Actually, the opposite as the trees grew I got higher yealds. Some more than others. My last year with a kathy mango I had over 30 fruit on a 5 year tree
@@FruitTree Whew! Feeling better about my choice to plant two different varieties of mango trees. I am protecting both of my first year mangoes from the cold. One more question. Can polyembryonic mango trees ever get big enough in Phoenix where you don’t have to worry about it taking too much cold damage? Or should I always keep it trimmed so that I can protect from the cold if needed? I guess the first thing to do is put some thermometers throughout my backyard so I know what kinds of temperatures I am actually getting. The last of the farm fields around my house are going up in homes so if anything the heat island affect will probably be even more pronounced during the winter months. Kinda hoping that I don’t always have to do all this extra work each winter.
It depends on what type more than poly or mono. There is a massive group of trees in phx that get zero protection. Grafted trees won't get huge here. Seedlings are the way to go
@@FruitTree Thanks for letting me know. I had seen a few really huge mango trees from Shamus O’Leary’s TH-cam videos and from yours so I knew it was possible. In a few years I’ll see how my Orange Sherbet mango tree does without any protection.
All over. Greenlife QC tropicals Russ true value - no longer I have Nam doc mi Coconut cream Lemon meringue Kathy Cotton candy Valencia pride And about 10 seedlings
So who’s dirt do you suggest I buy? I’m having to pot my mango until we buy a house 🏡 when the market chills a little. My mango tree is almost as big enough to pick fruit from with your suggested method.
My manila mango grown from seed keep stopping their growth after about 3-4 months. I've re-potted using 30% sand, 30% peat moss, 30% perlite, and 10% mix of compost, composted manure, worm casting, and myccorhiza. They're getting 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. It's seems to be at a complete halt, and can't produce leaves. Any tips?? These baby's look like they're dying.
copper sprays containing copper diammonia diacetate are much better for Anthracnose. But in Arizona you don't need to treat for it the temps are too high and humidity is too low. I've had dozens of samples sent in when we had a scare in 2019 and they all came in negative
@@FruitTreecopper is effective in environments that are copper deficient. most soils in Arizona are very high in copper. Some are even Copper toxic. However, many people in Arizona are growing mango in straight organic material, which is already low in copper, with minimal soil aeration, over watering, using Epsom salt. All of which tends to precipitate copper & increase Anthracnose cell division. Such people do get Anthracnose in Az during monsoons & early spring if high humidity in the morning. Copper is far more effective when copper deficiency was the cause. Copper is not a good choice, if already high & Nickel toxicity or Boron deficiency was the trigger for Anthracnose invasive behavior. Growing mango in the Arizona desert is going to take time for even experts to master. California desert is doing well with Keitt' mango a late-season cultivar with dense foliage. But they still have to spray leaves & fruits with an organic white light reflector like paint. They are doing drip systems all sides of the trees about 3ft from trunk. Every environment requires a different method. Cookie cutter doesn't work, unless in an identical environment.
@Pay-It_Forward copper is not high in the San tan valley or in several other places we tested. People that plant in direct soil will have slow growth mainly do to the high PH (8.6 to 9.8) mangos can't absorb nutrients unless they are 5.5 to 6.25 I found. I have experience with this having growing 30 trees to fruit in Arizona. The direct soil trees had 2% the growth the amended soil has. I'm going to take a stand on anthracnose in AZ. It may come in with it but after June it's dead. I took over 40 samples of "infected" mangos and not one of they had it. I waited until August to collect with the humidity is high. It won't survive 110 degrees.
@@FruitTree I'm not saying that Anthracnose is the main problem in Arizona, nor implying that your trees died of it. There is over 600 different mango diseases. At least 60 of them can cause tree deaths, especially if the tree has multiple diseases at a time. Your trees most likely died of Rhizoctonia sp. rot rot due to poor aeration & poor drainage. san tan valley is an alluvial copper basin with massive amounts of copper, it's just copper sulfide & crystalized copper carbonates that aren't very water soluble & don't show up on a standard soil analysis. Yet can be resolved by organic acids & sulfuric & hydrochloric. Plus precipitated again by E. Coli, Mycorrhizae, Aspergillus niger, etc, which produce soil alcohol. I was only claiming that Sulfur helps inhibit fungi. Not that Sulfur is always the right choice for fungi treatment, nor the best treatment for Anthracnose. I also claimed that Sulfur is important to nitrogen assimilation, nitrogen fixation, Chlorophyll-A, etc. I also claimed that the soil is heavily mineralized in many Arizona locations. People in Maricopa county have actually lost trees due to Anthracnose in Arizona, due to doing dozens of things horrendously wrong. Arizona Mango Growers is one of hundreds of gardening sites which I monitor for: lol, entertainment. You definitely know far more than I assumed at first, when I heard that square hole analysis. The plant root mouth analogy cracked me up too. We are talking about topics difficult for ISA Certified Arborists & Master Gardeners to understand, much less the public, lol. I have had these topics discussions before with some of the Arizona ISA Certified Arborist instructors. Roots are actually healthier at (7.1pH to 8.5pH) as long as all the nutrients are water soluble & chelated. Boron & Molybdenum deficiency due to low pH is a major health issue. Nickel toxicity due to low pH & organic acids is a health issue as it copolymerizes Zinc & Copper Ligands, plus creates too much Urea, plus activates pathogenic behavior in fungi & gram-negative bacteria. Quorum Sensing is a new topic, so not a lot is known yet. But these minerals have big impacts, both positive & negative. Iron is another issue. Maricopa & many other places have too much in the form of Ferric oxide. Ferric oxide acts as a triggering agent in "QS" for many gram-negative diseases such as cranker, especially in prunus.
@@FruitTree The important thing isn't pH, it's what's causing that pH & if nutrients are organic & water soluble. If high pH is due to high pH calcium & Boron is deficient & other nutrients are precipitated, then yes, growth is stunted. Boron is always adequate in most healthy organic material. Boron helps root tips make Cytokinin & apical meristem make auxins, plus helps meristems assimilate Calcium for Auxin transport proteins. In my opinion, it's this, plus chelating acids which helped, far more than the pH change.
the main issue is aeration & drainage. Azomite is a bad thing for mango, as too much water soluble aluminum. Phoenix & Mesa areas has Aluminum clays along the old river bed area. Polyembryonic seeds are best when growing from seeds, as they are clones, rather than new hybrids.
@@FruitTree I'm familiar with most USA soil types & locations, as well as localized mineral abundances. Arizona has many variations. I'm familiar with most of Arizona's soil & climate conditions, as well as cold & heat tolerance of many mango varieties. (Naveed Afzal & Garrett Hill) are having best success in giant above ground cloth grow bags. It's very different than what Richard Campbell of Mango Men Homestead does in Florida or what Truly Tropical does. Different environments require different tactics! Azomite has lots of water soluble silicates, which is bad for mango. Growing near cement with high pH calcium from the cement & silicates from cement doesn't help things. Mangos prefer high humidity aeration in the upper root system with it mostly dry & root tips sitting in water. Arizona in the Phoenix area gets 12" to 14" rain, mostly during summer monsoons. Mangos can be very heat tolerant as long as root tips in water, upper roots aerated, plus heavily mulched, with air humid. Misters are important. Did you have a question?
@@FruitTree PS: you might be able to grow (Wango) in Tennessee in the future. Depends on how cold tolerant it ends up being. th-cam.com/video/ppUMW-bnc8E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pwLxUpjG6_DPiv-8
Hi Guys ...play the Long game and plant a seedling forget about all the grafted plants from Florida... i got 20-23 mango seedlings gotten from my yearly Florida trip. Chemical fertilizers hurt soil and will kill especially small mango plants. I Have 5 seedling CACS / 1 SEEDLING SEACREST/ 2 SEEDLING LEMONZEST/ 3 seedling Dupois Saigon/ 1 seedling Valencia pride/ 3 Seedling Edgars/ 1 Seedling Zinc/ 1 Seedling Juliette/ 4 wild seedlings gotten from a park growing huge wild mangoes i scavenged this summer. / 2 mango seeds gotten from a Friend in Florida These were all sprouted and planted while were were getting all those heavy rain and humidity in August. Stop buying grafted trees they will decline ...plant seedlings and wait till 5-6 ft then graft. In the mean time work on your soil woodchips/ leaves/ a little clean animal manure lightly on top/ woodchips/ compost .. i heavily layer these on my back and side yard in Tolleson especially in the fall...been doing this for 8 years....foot of my soil is black and the rest under that is soft and all my plants are doing great.
Thanks for the comment. I do have several seedlings growing from seeds off of my trees. They are very tough and i think they will be great producers some day. I'm not giving up on the grafted types although i do agree with you. The non grafted will be full size mangos and the grafted will be my dwarf mangos.
If everyone did that we would never get new interesting fruit. Mangos from known cultivars will most likley still taste great. Im aware it's a hybrid but all the mangos in the area are great. Seedlings also grow larger and show the most resilient cold hardiness. I'm not going to put them above or claim it's the same.
OVER 50% native soil. Maybe 75% or more for a smooth transition. You do not need that many additives. I would GRADUALLY Mix in a small portion slow release sulfur...some mix in gysum--keep in mind if you do that, you are adding more calcium, though it may not be locked up. Azomite is largely unnecessary ! IF you add that, add only trace amounts. I don't know who you are referring to on bad soil mixes...there are several people that market bad or un-optimum mixes...but if it is a certain individual who know longer does videos from AZ & is way up north, I used to CRINGE when I saw his soil mix---there was NO science to the included elements (a couple I would either NEVER over very sparingly use in our western soils for Tropicals)...nor the mix ratios whatsoever. It was GUARANTEED to FURTHER raise pH here---Horrible for Mango's to both grow in and to thrive in (or access nutrients) which already struggle with our naturally high pH levels. Glad you apparently found out what to do. Again--Though our soils have huge buffering capacitiies, regular, later "minor" (you don't need much...but might be best to add small amts at least once a month) application of a quality slow-release sulfur could benefit these trees
This video was made a while ago I've learned a lot. One thing to consider it's not just native soil. In tract homes the sheet rock treated wood shavings and garbage gets put into the soil as well. I also had 6 dump trucks of broken down wood chips helping improve it as well. Azomite depends on your soil testing results. The native soil is rich in minerals and is mostly no needed. I choose to use them since is was using a 50/50 blend. My amendment processes nut adding more and more woodchips and Sulphur but I've moved to Tennessee now but visited my trees and they are doing amazing with out much additional care.
Clearly this person saw the size of my mangos and became extremely jealous. Growing them in the desert is a different animal. Mabye this person is comparing growing them in other climates.
Thank you for providing updates over the years! I've been watching your videos for years and appreciate the consistent local advice.
Well I've moved to Tennessee but will always have garden advice that relates to AZ
I don't know why I never said thank you a couple years ago when I first watched this video... So THANK YOU‼This is such a hidden gem for growing mangoes. No regurgitated BS. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Thanks I appreciate it
I am from the Iraqi city of Mosul, the same weather as Arizona. We really enjoyed the video. Thank you
Happy you liked it
Out of curiosity what all tropicals do you have growing over there? What kind of temperatures do you see in the winters? That seems to be the killer over here for tropicals is our winter lows
@dcogray tropicals is zero for now
I've got some greenhouse plans. We got to -9 this year
Enjoying all your videos! Thanks for the great content.
No problemwe really enjoy it
Nice to know another person who loves Mango. I live in Vegas, subscribed to your channel. I also love tropicals and make videos about them.
Nice Vegas and my area are very similar
You won a subscriber mate into 2:02 seconds of the video. cheers and thank you for the knowledge.
Thanks I appreciate that
I am trying my hand on mango here in Glendale Az. Thank you for this. Im starting from a store bought seed
They will probably be the strongest
I just moved here from Seattle. Someone suggested I try growing some tropicals. I ordered a couple Mangos online. One is growing nicely JP here in Vistancia. 3 others have shipped and died shortly thereafter. If you have a local nursery that sells good Mango Trees you might point me in the right direction. Thanks!! Rod
I like green life, queen creek tropicals and tropica mango
Great info. Thanks
No problem
Came for the mango growing tips.
Stayed for the Suns shirt.
Fantastic
@@FruitTree Longtime Las Vegas native, Suns fan since 92, and persistently frustrated mango/avocado grower.
Doing an experiement where I'm trying some polyembryonic mangos from seed to see if they tolerate our conditions better instead of whatever rootstock is used in grafting. Going to follow your tips to see if I have better success.
Well if your frustrated with mangos and avocados then the suns have taught you to accept loss but always hang on for hope.
@@FruitTree Ain't that the truth...
I am a new subscriber as of today. Great information. I am trying to grow mangoes again. I killed the first two plants. One of the plants have brown leaves and the other is green. They are planted under a tree with mostly full sun.
You can do it
Thanks you Brian for all the tips in growing mangos. I can grow mangos from seeds but it never servive past 2 years. I will try adding sulfur and change it locations. I never taste fresh picked mangos before, but I'm sure it is tasty than grocery garbage mangos. Are your jujube fruits rip yet?
Yes mine are ripe but I haven't eaten any yet
Great job! I am in Florida, rains a ton, so we place in fast draining soil/clay soil. In AZ do you use thick black soil to hold on to water longer?
Color has less to do with it than it's absorbing ability.
The soil I just when mixed with clay held water but also didn't pool water.
Great video. Have you seen the mango farm in Thermal, CA (coachella valley)? Also, I'm growing manilla mango which they say is the toughest mango for the CA. I live in Palm Springs, CA and I have a manilla mango. It's doubled in size in one year.
I haven't been but I've seem some video of the mangos in CA. Good luck with yours
Thank you for the very informative video. I’m new to the valley, Waddell area and planted several fruit trees this past fall and early spring. I’d like to also try growing a mango. I need to test my soil, can you tell me what kind of tester you have and where you got it. Thanks.
Yeah its mysoiltest on Amazon. I have a video on it you can check it out
@@FruitTree thanks
how are you liking Tennessee? you should get a pickering mango and grow it in a pot and put it in your garage in the winter time!
We love it. Its really hard to do that until I get a greenhouse but I plan on it
What material did you use to cover your enclosure for low winter temperatures?
6mm painters plastics
Hi! Great info thank you! Can you clarify about not eating the first fruits? First timer here in far west valley. Manila mango - so from what I’m getting - it will flower then fruit and do we cut it off before it flowers or before fruit or not pick it? TIA
For thr fist year or two cut the flowers off shortly after the small mangos form.
This will be past the time it wants to shoot out more flowers and will put its energy to grow its leaves and roots
Stumbled across your channel looking for people growing fruit in the desert and your content is great! I have noticed that a lot of people growing in the desert and making videos usually end up moving out of the dessert pretty fast. You mentioned mangos being slightly easier than avocados, have you tried to grow avocados in Arizona?
Yeah and I was able to keep the trees alive bit never got any fruit
Such a wealth of information! Always good to learn from one’s mistakes. I just bought a 1 gallon mango tree from a local person selling it. I have it in a cloth container under a shade cloth. The dirt is a mix I bought with compost. I’m in the heat of San Antonio TX. The little tree seems to be doing ok. I have noticed a couple of leaves are getting rusty in color. What could that mean?
Too hard to say without seeing it. Tips tend to burn due to a number of things. Make sure your PH is correct. That makes everything better
I wish I could share a picture I took, but definitely not the ends. I just did a PH test and it’s at a 7!!
What kind of sulfur do you buy?
Ok. Never mind. I looked at your video again. I find the Soil Sulfur
I'm not super picky with Sulphur. I usually just get what I can
I really don't do much here in Florida. Mangos do fantastic because of the Tropical Climate
They practically take care of them selves. I do not use any fertilizers at all. My Mangos are naturally healthy.😊
I'm actually in miami right now and you are right. They are growing everywhere like weeds
How much space in between your mangoes did you plant,? (From trunk to trunk?) thank you
I was way too close about 6 feet. I would recommend 10 feet if you will prune
Thank you for all the information about growing mangos. I just started to growing mangos first time. I have a question about the first year fruits which you are mentioning in this video. I just found my Cat Hoa Loc tree getting flowers. The tree I brought is 7 gallon pot grafted Cat Hoa Loc mango tree this June. I repoted to 15 gallon pot. Tree grow to 4 feet tall, the trunk circumference about 5 inches. So…should I keep the flower or cut it out? If you could give me some advice I would appreciate it. Thank you.
I would cut it the first year. After that a 7 gallon should be fine
@@FruitTree thanks!
I planted a Manila mango here in the San Diego foothills. Poor guy is just stuck. In four years it's grown maybe 8 inches. Every spring, it gets lots of growth but it new stuff always dies and falls off. I've tried more water, less water, fertilizer, wood chips around the base, nothing seems to help. It hasn't died, but that's about it. I'll try the evening shade suggestion. It gets hot and the sun is pretty bad out here.
Maybe it needs more shade. If new growth dies that could be it.
When you say to not let the mango tree go to fruit the first year, do you mean prune the buds? I just wanted to clarify since it was a major point.
Good question. I cut off all the flowers the first year
I'm at higley and Ocotillo, I need to do a soul test. Wonder how the sulfur and iron are doing.
My ph was 7 and I put alot into it. My iron was a little low as well
That high PH is the number one killer of Mango. Your area is for the most part the Alkaline Sea.
Exactly
Exactly
What mango trees your successes in Arizona and which one fails
Man that was a while ago.
I'd say kathy and lemon meringue were the best
@FruitTree orale have you tried alphono or ice cream mango or palmer or lemon zest in your yard
@user-cl9ew4ie4g no but I tried lemon meringue (better less common version) it did well.
@@FruitTree sounds good great 📹
So don’t water everyday for 30 mins, got it. How often should I water for then, and how long??? What was your water schedule to get those big mango trees???
I have a video just on how I water check it out
@@FruitTree I was looking at the videos on you channels and found it. Thanks.
Are you grafting any at the moment?
No I moved to Tennessee
I live in Arizona.
Enjoyed the video, very informative! Did you buy larger size trees or just 3gal? How big are your trees now?
I have 2 that were 7 gallon trees.(kathy and lemonmeringue) the rest are 3 gallon or seedlings.
The bigger trees and seedlinga do way better.
Im out in buckeye n just starting a garden What fertilizer did you use for the mango tree??? I wanna stay organic n not use synthetic fertilizer.
Mainly worm castings,sulfur and fish emulsion
@Smoky Mountain Homestead thx for the reply. We're you feeding fish emulsion February threw October n every 2 weeks???
I wish I had that level of dedication. I would try to do it every 6 weeks or so. The main source of food was actually constant dumps of wood chips. They break down and works come in a create castings. They also help hold water and micro nutrients
I live in Phoenix and I planted one polyembryonic mango seedling and one grafted mango tree. Your trees in the background look very healthy. However, now I have heard that though you can grow healthy looking mango trees in this area expect low production of fruit. Have you found this to be true?
Actually, the opposite as the trees grew I got higher yealds. Some more than others. My last year with a kathy mango I had over 30 fruit on a 5 year tree
@@FruitTree
Whew! Feeling better about my choice to plant two different varieties of mango trees. I am protecting both of my first year mangoes from the cold.
One more question. Can polyembryonic mango trees ever get big enough in Phoenix where you don’t have to worry about it taking too much cold damage? Or should I always keep it trimmed so that I can protect from the cold if needed? I guess the first thing to do is put some thermometers throughout my backyard so I know what kinds of temperatures I am actually getting.
The last of the farm fields around my house are going up in homes so if anything the heat island affect will probably be even more pronounced during the winter months. Kinda hoping that I don’t always have to do all this extra work each winter.
It depends on what type more than poly or mono. There is a massive group of trees in phx that get zero protection. Grafted trees won't get huge here.
Seedlings are the way to go
@@FruitTree Thanks for letting me know. I had seen a few really huge mango trees from Shamus O’Leary’s TH-cam videos and from yours so I knew it was possible.
In a few years I’ll see how my Orange Sherbet mango tree does without any protection.
I’ve heard that though you can grow healthy looking mango trees in the Phoenix area, fruit production will be low. Have you found this to be true?
No it us usually the other way around
Hello, I wanted to ask if this year when you pick the fully ripe fruit if you could sell me the seeds from them ? I pay shipping also.
I actually moved to Tennessee. No more mangos😭
Where do you get your mango plants? What variety is it?
All over.
Greenlife
QC tropicals
Russ true value - no longer
I have
Nam doc mi
Coconut cream
Lemon meringue
Kathy
Cotton candy
Valencia pride
And about 10 seedlings
Thank you
So who’s dirt do you suggest I buy? I’m having to pot my mango until we buy a house 🏡 when the market chills a little. My mango tree is almost as big enough to pick fruit from with your suggested method.
I use green life soil mix
My manila mango grown from seed keep stopping their growth after about 3-4 months. I've re-potted using 30% sand, 30% peat moss, 30% perlite, and 10% mix of compost, composted manure, worm casting, and myccorhiza. They're getting 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. It's seems to be at a complete halt, and can't produce leaves. Any tips?? These baby's look like they're dying.
In the really hot and really cold months the growth will be slow.
What planting zone. Are you in?
Well in this video I was 9A. I'm now in 7A
@@FruitTree Thanks for the great info in your Mango tree video!!! It really helped me out. I have to ask did you bring your Mango Tree with you to 7a?
@caleblivaudais7573 no its too cold. Mabye a green house in the future
Where do you get your fish emulsion?
Anywhere. I usually get it from home depot
Sulfur tends to inhibit Anthracnose. Sulfur dramatically increases nitrogen assimilation. Native soil in that area is basically way too mineralized.
copper sprays containing copper diammonia diacetate are much better for Anthracnose. But in Arizona you don't need to treat for it the temps are too high and humidity is too low. I've had dozens of samples sent in when we had a scare in 2019 and they all came in negative
@@FruitTreecopper is effective in environments that are copper deficient. most soils in Arizona are very high in copper. Some are even Copper toxic. However, many people in Arizona are growing mango in straight organic material, which is already low in copper, with minimal soil aeration, over watering, using Epsom salt. All of which tends to precipitate copper & increase Anthracnose cell division. Such people do get Anthracnose in Az during monsoons & early spring if high humidity in the morning. Copper is far more effective when copper deficiency was the cause. Copper is not a good choice, if already high & Nickel toxicity or Boron deficiency was the trigger for Anthracnose invasive behavior. Growing mango in the Arizona desert is going to take time for even experts to master. California desert is doing well with Keitt' mango a late-season cultivar with dense foliage. But they still have to spray leaves & fruits with an organic white light reflector like paint. They are doing drip systems all sides of the trees about 3ft from trunk. Every environment requires a different method. Cookie cutter doesn't work, unless in an identical environment.
@Pay-It_Forward copper is not high in the San tan valley or in several other places we tested.
People that plant in direct soil will have slow growth mainly do to the high PH (8.6 to 9.8) mangos can't absorb nutrients unless they are 5.5 to 6.25 I found. I have experience with this having growing 30 trees to fruit in Arizona. The direct soil trees had 2% the growth the amended soil has.
I'm going to take a stand on anthracnose in AZ. It may come in with it but after June it's dead. I took over 40 samples of "infected" mangos and not one of they had it. I waited until August to collect with the humidity is high. It won't survive 110 degrees.
@@FruitTree I'm not saying that Anthracnose is the main problem in Arizona, nor implying that your trees died of it. There is over 600 different mango diseases. At least 60 of them can cause tree deaths, especially if the tree has multiple diseases at a time. Your trees most likely died of Rhizoctonia sp. rot rot due to poor aeration & poor drainage. san tan valley is an alluvial copper basin with massive amounts of copper, it's just copper sulfide & crystalized copper carbonates that aren't very water soluble & don't show up on a standard soil analysis. Yet can be resolved by organic acids & sulfuric & hydrochloric. Plus precipitated again by E. Coli, Mycorrhizae, Aspergillus niger, etc, which produce soil alcohol. I was only claiming that Sulfur helps inhibit fungi. Not that Sulfur is always the right choice for fungi treatment, nor the best treatment for Anthracnose. I also claimed that Sulfur is important to nitrogen assimilation, nitrogen fixation, Chlorophyll-A, etc. I also claimed that the soil is heavily mineralized in many Arizona locations. People in Maricopa county have actually lost trees due to Anthracnose in Arizona, due to doing dozens of things horrendously wrong. Arizona Mango Growers is one of hundreds of gardening sites which I monitor for: lol, entertainment. You definitely know far more than I assumed at first, when I heard that square hole analysis. The plant root mouth analogy cracked me up too. We are talking about topics difficult for ISA Certified Arborists & Master Gardeners to understand, much less the public, lol. I have had these topics discussions before with some of the Arizona ISA Certified Arborist instructors. Roots are actually healthier at (7.1pH to 8.5pH) as long as all the nutrients are water soluble & chelated. Boron & Molybdenum deficiency due to low pH is a major health issue. Nickel toxicity due to low pH & organic acids is a health issue as it copolymerizes Zinc & Copper Ligands, plus creates too much Urea, plus activates pathogenic behavior in fungi & gram-negative bacteria. Quorum Sensing is a new topic, so not a lot is known yet. But these minerals have big impacts, both positive & negative. Iron is another issue. Maricopa & many other places have too much in the form of Ferric oxide. Ferric oxide acts as a triggering agent in "QS" for many gram-negative diseases such as cranker, especially in prunus.
@@FruitTree The important thing isn't pH, it's what's causing that pH & if nutrients are organic & water soluble. If high pH is due to high pH calcium & Boron is deficient & other nutrients are precipitated, then yes, growth is stunted. Boron is always adequate in most healthy organic material. Boron helps root tips make Cytokinin & apical meristem make auxins, plus helps meristems assimilate Calcium for Auxin transport proteins. In my opinion, it's this, plus chelating acids which helped, far more than the pH change.
I would like to plant mango like you, I killed 3 mango so far because my soil is hard clay.
Soil is key.
the main issue is aeration & drainage. Azomite is a bad thing for mango, as too much water soluble aluminum. Phoenix & Mesa areas has Aluminum clays along the old river bed area. Polyembryonic seeds are best when growing from seeds, as they are clones, rather than new hybrids.
Are you familiar with growing in Arizona? They were basically planted in an inground pot
@@FruitTree I'm familiar with most USA soil types & locations, as well as localized mineral abundances. Arizona has many variations. I'm familiar with most of Arizona's soil & climate conditions, as well as cold & heat tolerance of many mango varieties. (Naveed Afzal & Garrett Hill) are having best success in giant above ground cloth grow bags. It's very different than what Richard Campbell of Mango Men Homestead does in Florida or what Truly Tropical does. Different environments require different tactics! Azomite has lots of water soluble silicates, which is bad for mango. Growing near cement with high pH calcium from the cement & silicates from cement doesn't help things. Mangos prefer high humidity aeration in the upper root system with it mostly dry & root tips sitting in water. Arizona in the Phoenix area gets 12" to 14" rain, mostly during summer monsoons. Mangos can be very heat tolerant as long as root tips in water, upper roots aerated, plus heavily mulched, with air humid. Misters are important. Did you have a question?
@@FruitTree PS: you might be able to grow (Wango) in Tennessee in the future. Depends on how cold tolerant it ends up being. th-cam.com/video/ppUMW-bnc8E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pwLxUpjG6_DPiv-8
@@FruitTree th-cam.com/video/6HTxBE87Vvc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=C8GBAZ6YHFDbJ73f
Brian, you have any mangoes for sale!?
No sorry. I actually moved to Tennessee.
Please，Can banana trees be grown in Arizona？
They grow amazing in AZ.
Try Philippine Mango, no fiber buttery sweet
Where do you get your AZ grown mangos from? I’d like to get one to turn it into a seedling.
From my back yard.
Hi Guys ...play the Long game and plant a seedling forget about all the grafted plants from Florida... i got 20-23 mango seedlings gotten from my yearly Florida trip. Chemical fertilizers hurt soil and will kill especially small mango plants. I Have 5 seedling CACS / 1 SEEDLING SEACREST/ 2 SEEDLING LEMONZEST/ 3 seedling Dupois Saigon/ 1 seedling Valencia pride/ 3 Seedling Edgars/ 1 Seedling Zinc/ 1 Seedling Juliette/ 4 wild seedlings gotten from a park growing huge wild mangoes i scavenged this summer. / 2 mango seeds gotten from a Friend in Florida
These were all sprouted and planted while were were getting all those heavy rain and humidity in August. Stop buying grafted trees they will decline ...plant seedlings and wait till 5-6 ft then graft. In the mean time work on your soil woodchips/ leaves/ a little clean animal manure lightly on top/ woodchips/ compost .. i heavily layer these on my back and side yard in Tolleson especially in the fall...been doing this for 8 years....foot of my soil is black and the rest under that is soft and all my plants are doing great.
Thanks for the comment. I do have several seedlings growing from seeds off of my trees. They are very tough and i think they will be great producers some day. I'm not giving up on the grafted types although i do agree with you. The non grafted will be full size mangos and the grafted will be my dwarf mangos.
Why do you especially lay compost in the fall?
You should not plant seedlings, they can become different cultivars. Always get grafted fruit.
If everyone did that we would never get new interesting fruit. Mangos from known cultivars will most likley still taste great. Im aware it's a hybrid but all the mangos in the area are great.
Seedlings also grow larger and show the most resilient cold hardiness.
I'm not going to put them above or claim it's the same.
OVER 50% native soil. Maybe 75% or more for a smooth transition. You do not need that many additives. I would GRADUALLY Mix in a small portion slow release sulfur...some mix in gysum--keep in mind if you do that, you are adding more calcium, though it may not be locked up. Azomite is largely unnecessary ! IF you add that, add only trace amounts. I don't know who you are referring to on bad soil mixes...there are several people that market bad or un-optimum mixes...but if it is a certain individual who know longer does videos from AZ & is way up north, I used to CRINGE when I saw his soil mix---there was NO science to the included elements (a couple I would either NEVER over very sparingly use in our western soils for Tropicals)...nor the mix ratios whatsoever. It was GUARANTEED to FURTHER raise pH here---Horrible for Mango's to both grow in and to thrive in (or access nutrients) which already struggle with our naturally high pH levels. Glad you apparently found out what to do. Again--Though our soils have huge buffering capacitiies, regular, later "minor" (you don't need much...but might be best to add small amts at least once a month) application of a quality slow-release sulfur could benefit these trees
This video was made a while ago I've learned a lot. One thing to consider it's not just native soil. In tract homes the sheet rock treated wood shavings and garbage gets put into the soil as well. I also had 6 dump trucks of broken down wood chips helping improve it as well. Azomite depends on your soil testing results. The native soil is rich in minerals and is mostly no needed. I choose to use them since is was using a 50/50 blend. My amendment processes nut adding more and more woodchips and Sulphur but I've moved to Tennessee now but visited my trees and they are doing amazing with out much additional care.
Lot of bad info.
Oh yeah. Well I'm sorry to hear that. As you can see in the video I had some success. Not sure what was incorrect.
Like what? Can you elaborate?
Clearly this person saw the size of my mangos and became extremely jealous. Growing them in the desert is a different animal. Mabye this person is comparing growing them in other climates.
@@FruitTree Damn fool, did I hurt your feelings that bad.
@drillsergeant6236 not at all. My feelings are idiot proof