How to Sharpen A Ripsaw Pannel Hand Saw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- A quick Video on sharpening a Rip saw. this particular rip saw is a Diston D8 two hand grip with a 4TPI. we will cover sharpening, jointig and setting the hand saw.
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Great overview. I've sharpened a few crosscut saws including a big 1 man logging saw, but never a rip saw. I just picked up a WWII era Disston D8 5.5 tpi rip saw for a couple bucks, even before sharpening it it cut pretty well.
No nonsense, informative video that cuts to the chase (pun intended). Nicely done.
nice find, great video. Take care James.
thanks!
Wow, 4 tpi, a fast cutting saw there. Nice the point of the opposed sharpening barbs, to increase the "cutting" surface of those teeth chisels. Thanks for sharing
I keep it on the table so I can call it a table saw. thanks!
Lol
Great video. Thanks for the tip about the wire on the edge of the blade. I had never thought of that before. I'll probably have to start flipping the saw around in the future. Also if you don't have a fancy saw set you can set the saw with a nail set and two hammers. That is how I set my first saw and how I'll probably set the new one I got. Paul Sellers had a video I got that tip from. If I can find it I'll post it in another comment.
+David Dorothy I use to set it that way too. Paul does a great video on it.
Helpful video. Any plans to make a video on re-toothing a saw? I have a saw that had horrible teeth, and I was forced to completely grind down the whole tooth and start again.
That one is on my list, but I don't know when. Paul Sellers has one that covers it nicely.
Another nice video on sharpening a saw blade.
Chuck
Sweet thanks. Just got your email!
Awesome
I have an old saw that has a straight blade about 12" long and 1" wide at the top tapering down to about 3/8". I would like to take it apart and restore it but it doesn't have screws at the top holding the blade. It looks like the top of a nail head on both sides with a diameter of 3/8" so I don't know how to remove it. Can you give me any help?
Feel free to send me some pictures. My email address is jameswright@woodbywright.com
Veeeery cool! always learning!
Thanks man! and congrats on the write up.
Thank You bro.
my pleasure!
I sharpened my rip saw and resawed some 5" wide poplar. I'm not pleased at all with the performance of the saw. When you resaw with the hand saw, what sort of dust to you get? Powder? little curly chips?
Usually you get a heavy dust that falls very quickly on the other side. You generally only get chips when you're working with sauce larger than 2 PPI. I have a resawing video that shows the dust coming out the back side of it. I'll have to look it up and see if I can get you a link.
Here you are. It's around 11 minute mark. th-cam.com/video/dPgVYTwQ5Wc/w-d-xo.html
@@WoodByWright I'm getting dust. I don't think I have as few teeth on my saw as you do, but it is a similar Disston model, has the way cool extra hole for the other hand. My saw isn't that deep, either. But I am still looking at 6 TPI or so. I wish I knew how a sharp saw behaved so I could gauge the extent to which the issues are the saw and which are related to the nut behind the handle. Thanks for the videos!
Found a Henry panel saw little pitting was a 10tpi sharpened it but when i tryed setting teeth with a wood screw with flattened head as i was shown it bent the plate backwards and forwards been trying to find a saw set but they seem to be hard to come by.
Any ideas on how to set it with out a saw set?
Hammer setting is an art that requires a LOT of practice to do well. I would suggest seeing when the next tool meet is around you. most all of the MWTCA meets will have several sellers with buckets of them for $2-$5 each. here is a map of known tool sellers that might help. drive.google.com/open?id=1kmCeWv7lZUTbcNoKEG1ff5XjcKUfMwLf&usp=sharing
The frame saws behind you i have one but need to get a new blade for it where do you get your blades from ????
Matching the blade turn existing saw frame is almost impossible unless you knew the original maker of it. They're not standard in any way. there are two companies I know of right now that makes him. One is Blackburn tools. And the other is bad Axe tool works.
Wood By Wright I should’ve thought of bad ax i just got my $4.00 yard sale 10in disston back from them , they retoothed it for me , they did a great job with it thanks ill shoot them an e-mail
What kind of file did you use in terms of size; and coarseness?
size is determined by the depth of the gullet you want the file when it is in the gullet to be slightly more than twice the height of the gullet. that wat the tip of the tooth does not touch the center of the side of the file. the coarseness will be adjusted to the file size. so I never look at the numbering I just chose a file to fit that tooth size. does that answer your question?
Yes, thank you! Where do you get the files?
......nicely done, you need to build a saw bench, much safer, easier, and productive for hand sawing...and a great project.
+Rick L I have one in the garage because it kept getting in the way in the shop. I only have 3' between bench and tool shelves. But I have sessions for one in my head that just might work.
........understood..........maybe a fold down on the existing bench....?
Stop reading my mind! it would be a lot easier then climbing up on my current bench. that is always fun!
nice video. why only push the file? i've asked a number of different people and never got a "propper" answer. it can't be the file because the file has no direction.
the teeth on the file are a lot like the teeth on a saw in that they cut in one direction. if you pull it back it is more wear on the file and will go dull faster. if it is a burr file or a diamond file then there is no direction. but most traditional files do have a cutting direction.
A file tooth is shaped sort of like a cresting wave. Lots of material at the back, but under the tooth is a significant hook.
There is a huge amount of material backing the sharp edge of the tooth, but pulled in the opposite direction, the tooth hangs over a hollow area. When you drag back, the edge of the tooth just gets bent down into the hollow and doesn't cut anymore.
great video. thanks :-)
Hey James
I don't know how much the shipping would cost. But I thought of some kind of a collab with handplanes or so that would be kinda cool if you're interested in that 😉☺
+Not only Wood I might be interested. Send me a message.
+Wood By Wright Alright I just upload the drawing of my giveaway
sweet!
Thank you for showing how you prefer to do it. Good, solid info. Also if you do not mind the comment, there is a correct speed to saw for maximum efficiency for different tooth counts, woods, and tooth sets. Using more of the blade and longer strokes at around 50 strokes per minute will work well. boingboing.net list some great suggested rules for proper use of a quality handsaw. I am slowly restoring my GGrandfather, Grandfather and Father's old Saws. Disstons, Sandviks, Craftsmans and others. It is becoming difficult to find quality saw files, especially in the slim and double Xtra slim types. Is there an online site you buy files from?
The saw in your video is highly collectible
I wish. You can usually pick these ones up for 10 to $15. I have a few that are very collectible and several hundred dollars worth each.
As a child I never understood why a saw would R.I.P.
But now I do, because mine is Resting in pieces . . .
Lol nice.
Comment down below
Wicked bro
My dad's just given me great grandfather's toolchest, oh lordy, lots of tools to play with. Inc 2 rip handsaws which I doubt have been sharpened since the 60s. While I'm sure they won't replace Mr Makita the circ saw, they're begging to be used. Dad thinks the chest was made in ~1880, hmm, all those moulding planes too..... fun times ahead (prob frustrating too)
TOO MUCH FUN!! sounds like a fantastic find!
James you're in the Midwest aren't you? I ask because you just said excuse me to an inanimate object :P
Lol yup. Currently on the border of WI and IL
@@WoodByWright Cincinnati Ohio here. So plenty of excuse me, sorry and ope! here as well.
HI, I was looking for someone/business to sharpen my scissors and came across your video. Now, I will sharpen my own, thank you very much!
I am 80 years old son, and you have just taught me something in detail thank you.
Thanks John. Glad I could help.
Shouldn't the teeth be 'set' first? Seems like if you go to all the trouble of leveling and sharpening, setting would make them uneven again.
that is a big debate between different saw sharpeners but if you set them first and the teeth are not similar highs to begin then you will end up with more set on one side then the other. but if you set then all the same after sharpening then they should all move the same amount. at least that is the sharpening camp I am in. others will argue the other way. but one thing they all agry with is if the teeth are all uneven to begin with you do not est until you cut them all the same depth. like on this every other tooth was higher and setting first would make it curve the cut drastically at the end. Sorry I did not mean to type so much. LOL maybe I should do a video some time testing the two methods. that sounds like fun. thanks for the idea.
Here's why teeth should be set after sharpening and not before.
The process is almost as James shows you.
First, check to see if the saw is Breasted (The teeth run in a curve with the middle of the run lower than either end when it is cutting. More likely on longer saws.)
Second, Joint the teeth as James shows you. A good project is to take a worn out file and make a wooden case so that the centre of one side of the file is open to use. As you hold the wooden case to do the Jointing you are keeping your fingertips away from the sawblade tips.
Third, sharpen the teeth exactly as James shows you in the video.
Fourth, Stone the burrs, which James mentioned off both sides of the blade, running a slipstone along the teeth, just missing the Points of the teeth. You couldn't do this if you had already set the teeth.
Fifth, apply the Set to the teeth, evenly on alternate teeth. A saw cuts a Kerf (width of slot) which is wider than the thickness of the blade or plate. This is to reduce the friction and allow the teeth to do the work.
If you get all these right your saw will cut the way it was intended to, without you putting any more energy into sawing than to move the teeth backwards and forwards across (with no T) the wood.
Nice saw James. maybe when I come I'll bring you a couple more oldies for your collection. Thanx for sharing
sounds like fun. looking forward to saying hi.
cool saw and cool video. Like the close-up shots.
I remember Wranglerstar mentioning older saws sometimes have a taper in the blade so it doesn't need much or any set. Is that just with felling saws or also panel saws?
Found an old saw setting fork, need to give it a try some day.
Thanks for the video and have a great day. Cheers.
THat is just with Large felling saws. with panel saws they are all flat plate. would love to see what you do with it! thanks for the comment as always.
Great instructional video!
Ive just looked this up as I found a Disston rip saw in a junk shop today for 10 NZ dollars. Same place I bought a lovely Sorby chisel for 12NZD about a year ago. Both were mixed up with cheap stuff. I also couldn’t resist a Stanley number 6 plane , 20 $, and a lovely wooden smoother, 25$, with a cow horn handle at the front. I destroyed its patina renovating it, but the sole is now flat and the sides 90 degrees. Both planes work well after fettling. The previous owner of the wooden plane had it set up well, but the poor man with the Stanley must have got frustrated with it as the frog was all wrong and the blade sharpened to the wrong angle. The saw is 14 tpi and the gullet is less than 60 degrees, but I have the right file for it. I didn’t realise the importance of filing from both sides. It says Disston Canada on the handle brass button.
Nice. That is quite the hall. Sounds like the perfict saw.
James, enjoyed your video on sharpening a plane blade by hand, but could not find your video on setting up a smoothing plane, chip breaker etc. which you said you would link to the video on hand sharpening.
Thanks in advance,
George
sorry, I must have missed that one. thanks. here is the link. th-cam.com/video/vG-DULSw6Zk/w-d-xo.html
Great video.
I have not seen how to sharpen hand saws. You have a great carpentry. Like!
Yeah I know it's an old video....
But as Judge Judy always says ....
".... not ( basically ) " !!!!
Lol I like.
i have an old hand saw like the saw in this video. the blade has a bit of a slight S shape to it. any advice on how to straighten it?
you can try over bending it the opposite direction. if that works then great! if not the only other way is 5-6 hours with a peening hammer and anvil and you may never actually get it straight. in all honesty, if I find them with a bend or kink I turn them into card scrapers and get another saw.
What’s the point of skipping if you are just gonna come down again
I do half from one direction then the other half from the other side. this way there is the same amount of Bur on both sides of the plane. if you push them all one way it can cause the saw to co off track the first few times you use it as all of the burr is on one side of the plate.
You said about setting the saw but you didn't say about what number, my saw set has numbers on it
every set has different numbers so I can not tell you what it is on yours. if it is a 4ppi or larger I set it 75% of the way to the most set. if it is 16ppi I set it on the lowest set I can. everything else is in between.
@@WoodByWright ok thank you that is a little better than the books
Great. Lovely saw. Thanks
thanks man!
nice, great lesson james. Need to try this
+The WoodWorking Junkie just make sure the teeth are not hardened LOL thanks man.
Hahaha, been far to long my friend! your quality of video has improved a lot. always enjoy you narrative
Thanks. I am working on it. still have a long way to go though.
It doesnt beat your roubeau. I need to find me a rip saw...
no it does not. but for ripping down long boards it is unstoppable.
great video James, the one thing I did note though is that you didn't wax the blade, you will find it cuts a little easier by putting paraffin or bees wax on the blade, creates less friction and produces a much cleaner cut. I love my Diston saws, I need to sharpen all mine though, I inherited my Great Great grandfathers hand tools and I' pretty sure they haven't been sharpened since 1955, I should probably get at LOL!
+The Divine Hammer's Woodworks thanks. I love working with my great-great grandfather's tools. It's always fun to shake hands with an ancestor. I do wax saws but I do that in the course of using them not just when I sharpen them. I may apply lubrication 6 or 7 times between sharpenings.
yes I do it as well, pretty much every time I grab my hand saws I give the blades on the saw a quick coat, and when I store them for a while a quick light coat of WD-40 or light weight oil is applied, not only does it keep rust from happening but also helps to keep resins from gumming up your blades if the wood is still kinda wet. I do this to my planes and chisels as well. since all my tools are strictly used in the basement workshop it's over kill, but a little prevention goes a long way to maintain these family heirlooms, so I can pass them down to my kids in the future. I'm the 3rd generation to have and use these tools and hopefully many more generations of my family will enjoy the use of them as well.
Very helpful video. Thank you!
My pleasure. Glad I could help!
yes first comment
you are so the man!