this is just an amazing piece of software which enables us to capture sequences like never before. thanks you so much for your work and thanks as well for putting up these great tutorials. they show everything you need to know in order to get a day to night or night to day transition. just perfect.
Finally I’ve bought the software, been time lapsing for a while, but naturally I’ve got to move on to day/night etc ..... I’ve always been daunted by this, hopefully with practice this software will help me accomplish the ‘holy grail’ Thanks for the tutorials, very clear. 👍🏻
Did my first time lapse last week. The camera was in manual but I didn't adjust while shooting. Back to the drawing board. Camera Nikon D 850. Great information!!!
Congratulation for the video. I like it too much. Can you explane me, please, how can use "Time Stamp" function? I want to see the time that go on when I see my timelapse. Thankyou!
Dear ,, Thank you first for all the effort you do for explain the amazing program ,, I wanna ask you , i have a sequence of images for sunset on the beach , i tried to apply your method to use the holy grail wizard but the button is not activate ? any tip ?
You only need the Holy Grail wizard, if you shoot in M-Mode and change the camera settings. If you shoot in A-Mode, you don't need it, you will then be fine with Deflicker. But: there are reasons to shoot in M-Mode, see: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-why-not-shoot-day-to-night-transitions-in-aperture-priority-a-av-mode Please use the forum for futher questions.
Just a basic question as I'm a newbie, how do I gat all my raw files in one single folder and renamed with the day/hour/min? On my nikon d5500 I get raw files named DSC_001, DSC_002, ... Otherwise thanks for this great video!
there is no hard spec. Just make sure to have as many processor cores as possible and a fast SSD for the timelapse seqences. Apart from that a resoltion from at least 1920x1080. Windows 10 or a fresh Mac OS. Please come to my forum for more questions. forum.lrtimelapse.com/
If you open the gradient tool in Lightroom (key M) you'll see the 4 predefined linear gradients that LRTimelapse created. Please use only those, don't remove any of those and don't add a new one. You can freely edit those 4 gradients.
Many thanks for a great piece of software. Two suggestions: price increase (from 50 to over a 100 euros) between two versions has stopped me from spending the money on a personal version. Secondly, is there a way to further automate the process, because now and then I forget to do something in a rather complicated set of steps.
There has been no price increase since the very first version of LRTimelapse. The private version is 99€ and the upgrade from one major version to the next (i.e. from LRT4 to LRT5 is 49€.). This is absolutely the same as it always was. The process is already highly automated. It's just clicking from left to right in LRT. I'm sure you will be able to do that.
Of course it's easier to make a smooth transition if you work with less keyframes. Just set as many as you think you would need to edit the transition. Usually 4-6 should be enough.
Hi!Its great software I have used trial version it perfect.i want to purchase private version.if I purchase and if my laptop by chance gets damaged can I reinstall it in another laptop
If you didn't close Lightroom when installing, you might need to restart it. See if the scripts are there then. If not, there is an faq: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-lrt4-lightroom-plugin-sync-script-and-filters-not-installed Please use my forum or email for further support queries: forum.lrtimelapse.com
Hi Gunther, not sure if you have seen Timelapse masterclass series by Mike Shainblum, but he does not use (in the tutorial) script to copy/paste settings between keyframes. It is quite impressive, because it seems he does not use holy grail when shooting at all. He uses M mode and does not touch the camera, completely relying that he will be able to handle the dynamic range in post (even for sunrise shot with sun in frame), or A mode...and I don´t understand how it is possible that he has such great results while not shooting/postprocessing the material in a technically "correct way" :D crazy :)
Certainly with modern, ISO invariant cameras, you can eliminate the need for ISO adjustments to a certain extent. But of course you'll never be able to cover differences in exposure from say 1/30 secs to 30 secs (10 stops) by leaving the exposure fixed. That's just a matter of physics. Also with A mode certain cameras can do some transitions, but you'll not be able to really control them, as it's possible with the ramping in qDslrDashboard for example. More about A-Mode for timelapse photography: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-why-not-shoot-day-to-night-transitions-in-aperture-priority-mode This means: certainly you can achieve good results in some situations without any additional techniques, but my goal is always to provide solutions that will work in all conditions, even difficult ones that span a long range from day to milkyway. I'm researching this topic now since 10 years, and the techniques that I propose are the result of this. I've explained everything in detail in my ebook: lrtimelapse.com/ebook
@@LRTimelapseOfficial I have purchased your e-book months ago and it is packed with fantastic information hands down! my comment is basically only an amazed reaction to what I have seen in Michaels tutorials in comparison with your suggested workflow when shooting and during post processing - I am not saying that he is right or wrong, or that your approach is better/worse by any means. It is just pure amazement because I after seeing some of Michaels timelapses, I thought that he will be super precise (doing manual ramping, working with your software in a correct way and not copy/pasting settings between keyframes etc.) and what I have found out is the exact opposite :D and my amateur head is not able to process that :)
@@stefancondik Yeah, I understood that.... It's always that you need to learn the basics first before you will be a pro in doing some freestyle stuff ;-)
Just Downloaded the Free version of Lrt 5.0.9 ... holy Grail Wizard is not active after i check the key frames wizard ! tried to install this copy on both Mac & Windows and still the holy Grail Wizard shaded to grey and can't click on it :( , kindly advise .
Holy Grail wizard will only be active, if you process a sequence shot according to the holy grail technique: camera in M mode and changing exposure/aperture/iso while shooting. In all other cases, you don't need it. Use the Visual deflicker then. Check out my tutorials on lrtimelapse.com and use the forum for further questions!
Please see Faq: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-lrt4-lightroom-plugin-sync-script-and-filters-not-installed And come to the forum for further questions: forum.lrtimelapse.com/
Thanks for this tutorial. Is it possible to get a smooth and deflickered transition by shooting in aperture priority mode? Or does it have to be shot entirely on manual mode?
It depends of the scene. Generally I recommend to shoot in M mode because you have much more control about what's happening and how you set up your camera (long exposure times etc.). In A Mode you have to rely on the camera, and won't be able to control it. Please use the user forum for further questions: forum.lrtimelapse.com/
It depends from the situation that you are shooting. I recommend to shoot in M mode, since you will have much more control and increase the chance that you'll get a perfect transition. In A mode the camera metering can easily be distracted and it will stop working reliably from a certain darkness on.
@@gwegnerde thanks for the reply. That's what I've thought. But considering the new ipad pro will be able to run the full version of photoshop and has storage options up to 1 tb and a fast processor, and Lightroom for mobile is a very solid app to edit pictures with so I was just asking out of curiosity for the future.
Hi Gunther, I did 2 shoots the last 2 nights both with the same settings. For some reason the holy grail worked fantastic last night but not tonight. I did some research and saw that you need to shoot in ( M-mode ) for the holy grail to work. Is it possible I changed my settings with out knowing? Otherwise what is M-mode? Thanks
M-Mode is the manual mode on your camera where you can freely set Aperture, ISO and Shutterspeed without the camera doing any automatics. As opposed to A/Av, S/Tv etc. Modes.
It's not enough to just shoot in M mode to activate the Holy Grail feature. You need to also adjust one of the exposure parameters (shutter, aperture or ISO) for the HG button to not be greyed out. If you simply shoot without changing exposure there's no point in the HG feature, which is why it's greyed out.
this is just an amazing piece of software which enables us to capture sequences like never before. thanks you so much for your work and thanks as well for putting up these great tutorials. they show everything you need to know in order to get a day to night or night to day transition. just perfect.
I don't even WANT a cracked version. You DESERVE payment for all of the work you've done on such a needed tool. wish i could've beat you to it ;)
Finally I’ve bought the software, been time lapsing for a while, but naturally I’ve got to move on to day/night etc ..... I’ve always been daunted by this, hopefully with practice this software will help me accomplish the ‘holy grail’ Thanks for the tutorials, very clear. 👍🏻
Did my first time lapse last week. The camera was in manual but I didn't adjust while shooting. Back to the drawing board. Camera Nikon D 850. Great information!!!
looking into the software right now. hope to see more tutorial
You can find all tutorials on lrtimelapse.com/tutorial/
Thanks for the video and for emailing me back so quick when I needed my code again. Your the man Gunther!
Most amazing coding work. Much respect Gunther
WOW, great software. Thank you so much!
such a great and unique software. Congrats! have bought a fresh license today:)
Really excellent, ausgezeichnet!!!!
Congratulation for the video. I like it too much. Can you explane me, please, how can use "Time Stamp" function? I want to see the time that go on when I see my timelapse. Thankyou!
Dear ,,
Thank you first for all the effort you do for explain the amazing program ,,
I wanna ask you , i have a sequence of images for sunset on the beach , i tried to apply your method to use the holy grail wizard but the button is not activate ? any tip ?
You only need the Holy Grail wizard, if you shoot in M-Mode and change the camera settings. If you shoot in A-Mode, you don't need it, you will then be fine with Deflicker. But: there are reasons to shoot in M-Mode, see: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-why-not-shoot-day-to-night-transitions-in-aperture-priority-a-av-mode
Please use the forum for futher questions.
Just a basic question as I'm a newbie, how do I gat all my raw files in one single folder and renamed with the day/hour/min? On my nikon d5500 I get raw files named DSC_001, DSC_002, ... Otherwise thanks for this great video!
I would like to know what is the spec on laptop or pc to get it great processing work flow .
there is no hard spec. Just make sure to have as many processor cores as possible and a fast SSD for the timelapse seqences. Apart from that a resoltion from at least 1920x1080. Windows 10 or a fresh Mac OS. Please come to my forum for more questions. forum.lrtimelapse.com/
Great tutorial ! At 5:34 - how did you add the gradient filter ? Is it the graduated filter tool in Lightroom?
If you open the gradient tool in Lightroom (key M) you'll see the 4 predefined linear gradients that LRTimelapse created. Please use only those, don't remove any of those and don't add a new one. You can freely edit those 4 gradients.
Many thanks for a great piece of software. Two suggestions: price increase (from 50 to over a 100 euros) between two versions has stopped me from spending the money on a personal version. Secondly, is there a way to further automate the process, because now and then I forget to do something in a rather complicated set of steps.
There has been no price increase since the very first version of LRTimelapse. The private version is 99€ and the upgrade from one major version to the next (i.e. from LRT4 to LRT5 is 49€.). This is absolutely the same as it always was.
The process is already highly automated. It's just clicking from left to right in LRT. I'm sure you will be able to do that.
Should I be limiting my key frames to 6 or so with day to night? I usually end up with about 20
Of course it's easier to make a smooth transition if you work with less keyframes. Just set as many as you think you would need to edit the transition. Usually 4-6 should be enough.
Hi!Its great software I have used trial version it perfect.i want to purchase private version.if I purchase and if my laptop by chance gets damaged can I reinstall it in another laptop
Yes, of course!
yes of course.
I'm having a problem, when I want to sync the keyframes in lightroom there's an error and doesn't let me sync the photos
If you didn't close Lightroom when installing, you might need to restart it. See if the scripts are there then.
If not, there is an faq: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-lrt4-lightroom-plugin-sync-script-and-filters-not-installed
Please use my forum or email for further support queries: forum.lrtimelapse.com
Excellent. Thank You.
Hi Gunther, not sure if you have seen Timelapse masterclass series by Mike Shainblum, but he does not use (in the tutorial) script to copy/paste settings between keyframes. It is quite impressive, because it seems he does not use holy grail when shooting at all. He uses M mode and does not touch the camera, completely relying that he will be able to handle the dynamic range in post (even for sunrise shot with sun in frame), or A mode...and I don´t understand how it is possible that he has such great results while not shooting/postprocessing the material in a technically "correct way" :D crazy :)
Certainly with modern, ISO invariant cameras, you can eliminate the need for ISO adjustments to a certain extent. But of course you'll never be able to cover differences in exposure from say 1/30 secs to 30 secs (10 stops) by leaving the exposure fixed. That's just a matter of physics. Also with A mode certain cameras can do some transitions, but you'll not be able to really control them, as it's possible with the ramping in qDslrDashboard for example. More about A-Mode for timelapse photography: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-why-not-shoot-day-to-night-transitions-in-aperture-priority-mode
This means: certainly you can achieve good results in some situations without any additional techniques, but my goal is always to provide solutions that will work in all conditions, even difficult ones that span a long range from day to milkyway. I'm researching this topic now since 10 years, and the techniques that I propose are the result of this. I've explained everything in detail in my ebook: lrtimelapse.com/ebook
@@LRTimelapseOfficial I have purchased your e-book months ago and it is packed with fantastic information hands down! my comment is basically only an amazed reaction to what I have seen in Michaels tutorials in comparison with your suggested workflow when shooting and during post processing - I am not saying that he is right or wrong, or that your approach is better/worse by any means. It is just pure amazement because I after seeing some of Michaels timelapses, I thought that he will be super precise (doing manual ramping, working with your software in a correct way and not copy/pasting settings between keyframes etc.) and what I have found out is the exact opposite :D and my amateur head is not able to process that :)
@@stefancondik Yeah, I understood that.... It's always that you need to learn the basics first before you will be a pro in doing some freestyle stuff ;-)
Just Downloaded the Free version of Lrt 5.0.9 ... holy Grail Wizard is not active after i check the key frames wizard ! tried to install this copy on both Mac & Windows and still the holy Grail Wizard shaded to grey and can't click on it :( , kindly advise .
Holy Grail wizard will only be active, if you process a sequence shot according to the holy grail technique: camera in M mode and changing exposure/aperture/iso while shooting. In all other cases, you don't need it. Use the Visual deflicker then.
Check out my tutorials on lrtimelapse.com and use the forum for further questions!
How do you adjust camera once you start a time lapse?
same way as always
Do you know if LRTimelapse will work with images taken using Magic lantern software?
What would be the difference in the images? I don't think there would be any issues. Best would be to work with Raw files.
@@gwegnerde I thought maybe the exif data values would be unreadable to the script
@@PostWarKids just try it, that's why there is a free version for testing!
I guess I can be the explorer into the unknown. Thanks for answering tho
please advice, scripte not show on tool bar.
Please see Faq: forum.lrtimelapse.com/Thread-lrt4-lightroom-plugin-sync-script-and-filters-not-installed
And come to the forum for further questions: forum.lrtimelapse.com/
Thanks for this tutorial. Is it possible to get a smooth and deflickered transition by shooting in aperture priority mode? Or does it have to be shot entirely on manual mode?
It depends of the scene. Generally I recommend to shoot in M mode because you have much more control about what's happening and how you set up your camera (long exposure times etc.). In A Mode you have to rely on the camera, and won't be able to control it. Please use the user forum for further questions: forum.lrtimelapse.com/
It depends from the situation that you are shooting. I recommend to shoot in M mode, since you will have much more control and increase the chance that you'll get a perfect transition. In A mode the camera metering can easily be distracted and it will stop working reliably from a certain darkness on.
Thanks alot..🙏😊
Amazing app without an alternative. Are you considering working on a mobile version of the app?
No, I don't think it would make sense because of the massive amount of data you would have to transfer to and edit on a smart device...
@@gwegnerde thanks for the reply. That's what I've thought. But considering the new ipad pro will be able to run the full version of photoshop and has storage options up to 1 tb and a fast processor, and Lightroom for mobile is a very solid app to edit pictures with so I was just asking out of curiosity for the future.
Thank you !! :)
do you reply to any of these valid questions?
Which question? This is not the place for LRTimelapse support. Please come to the forum: forum.lrtimelapse.com - I'm there to help.
Hi Gunther, I did 2 shoots the last 2 nights both with the same settings. For some reason the holy grail worked fantastic last night but not tonight. I did some research and saw that you need to shoot in ( M-mode ) for the holy grail to work. Is it possible I changed my settings with out knowing? Otherwise what is M-mode?
Thanks
M-Mode is the manual mode on your camera where you can freely set Aperture, ISO and Shutterspeed without the camera doing any automatics. As opposed to A/Av, S/Tv etc. Modes.
Update: it works on one of the time lapse I shot tonight but no of the other ones.
That's interesting. I definitely had it set to M-mode and will test tomorrow for further feed back.
I've tested this with other clips in manual mode and sometimes it's just grey for no reason.
It's not enough to just shoot in M mode to activate the Holy Grail feature. You need to also adjust one of the exposure parameters (shutter, aperture or ISO) for the HG button to not be greyed out. If you simply shoot without changing exposure there's no point in the HG feature, which is why it's greyed out.