Hello Jenny. I am from Sri Lanka. I watch your videos and like the content and your talent very rewarding. Over here it's a nasty tropical climate and garden railways are not possible. Unfortunately we don't have ladies having an interest, hands on. For that I must compliment you for your interest and the knowledge you share with other modellers around the world. Thanks so much for your most informative channel. I have an indoor HO layout that's 27 feet and 6feet wide. It's DCC and that makes it more enjoyable. Take care and God bless.
Another thing you can do to help absorb expanson is - where you have a long straight section, use flexi-track with a gentle S curve in it, and leave it loose in the middle, but fixed at each end, so it can move slightly sideways, when needed.
Very interesting Jenny how you are levelling the track with screws, I just had a thought, if you put two screws in side by side, you would have more control levelling the track from side to side and more surface area for the hot glue gun to fix to. You could even add "cant" to the curves! With my Garden Railway in 00, I have gone away from using dry cement mixed with my ballast, I never got a clean look, plus it tends to hold the moisture for a longtime, which is great for the moss, but not the track. My latest method (if you have a flat concrete base) is to fix the track with no more nails type adhesive and then ballast, fixing it with SBR mixed with water, (two parts of SBR to one part water). In Wicks they sell 20kg bags of "Dansand" which is a fine grey grit and very cheap around £5 from memory, It has nice sharp edges and not the rounded look that fish tank gravel gives.
Looking really good so far. I remember Mark Found using car body filler to get his track down. Of cause we didn’t see how well that lasted but may last better than hot glue?
JENNIFER, you're dead crafty in overccoming the maximum radius hiccup with the set track. Now, if I may, can I suggest that you and cupboard monkey construct some moveable formwork sides to contain the ballast mix, to allow you to create the correct slope within the limits of slope you desire... um yeah. Bascically set the upper and lower limits of ballast and then grade the track and slope to your personal requirements. Jeez Louise, you are up for this given the amazing progress at Wear Yard and I know that you will not let us down. Believe me when I say that I would love to assist, however I would have to travel half-way around the World to be useful, so I sit in the cheap seats and offer advise and best wishes and success to you both.P.
Hello Jenny. I am from Sri Lanka. I watch your videos and like the content and your talent very rewarding.
Over here it's a nasty tropical climate and garden railways are not possible. Unfortunately we don't have ladies having an interest, hands on. For that I must compliment you for your interest and the knowledge you share with other modellers around the world. Thanks so much for your most informative channel.
I have an indoor HO layout that's 27 feet and 6feet wide. It's DCC and that makes it more enjoyable.
Take care and God bless.
You’re certainly getting some lovely line!! Don’t forget a station or two!! Not to mention the signal boxes that go with them!!
Another thing you can do to help absorb expanson is - where you have a long straight section, use flexi-track with a gentle S curve in it, and leave it loose in the middle, but fixed at each end, so it can move slightly sideways, when needed.
You are so awesome!! Very brilliant in everything you do.
Brilliant layout
There is stuff call mulch glue 2 part mix together then spary onto the gravel to stop it moving
Great stuff,might be an idea to improve drainage on that bridge so you don’t get short outs
Very interesting Jenny how you are levelling the track with screws, I just had a thought, if you put two screws in side by side, you would have more control levelling the track from side to side and more surface area for the hot glue gun to fix to. You could even add "cant" to the curves! With my Garden Railway in 00, I have gone away from using dry cement mixed with my ballast, I never got a clean look, plus it tends to hold the moisture for a longtime, which is great for the moss, but not the track. My latest method (if you have a flat concrete base) is to fix the track with no more nails type adhesive and then ballast, fixing it with SBR mixed with water, (two parts of SBR to one part water). In Wicks they sell 20kg bags of "Dansand" which is a fine grey grit and very cheap around £5 from memory, It has nice sharp edges and not the rounded look that fish tank gravel gives.
Looking really good so far. I remember Mark Found using car body filler to get his track down. Of cause we didn’t see how well that lasted but may last better than hot glue?
On his bridge, not the track.
If you have a dry day, spray white emulsion paint over the laid track, remove then you can see the outline...
Yay, track!
Try nickel fish plates they don't rush and saves you a lot of hassle.
You might try brown or black hot glue sticks, might hide better
Great idea
JENNIFER, you're dead crafty in overccoming the maximum radius hiccup with the set track. Now, if I may, can I suggest that you and cupboard monkey construct some moveable formwork sides to contain the ballast mix, to allow you to create the correct slope within the limits of slope you desire... um yeah. Bascically set the upper and lower limits of ballast and then grade the track and slope to your personal requirements. Jeez Louise, you are up for this given the amazing progress at Wear Yard and I know that you will not let us down. Believe me when I say that I would love to assist, however I would have to travel half-way around the World to be useful, so I sit in the cheap seats and offer advise and best wishes and success to you both.P.