I'm eternally hunting for Ork skin recipes, very peculiar about my tastes here. This is so good. Watching the vid makes me want to go buy another box of boyz and paint 'em up. Really love your yellows, too.
Hi there, I know this is quite an old video now, but I just want to say that as someone new to Warhammer, and who's starting with Badmoon Orks this is really inspiring to watch, and a great example of something amazing I can strive to be able to replicate in the future, thanks so much for sharing this.
this is a truly astonishing ork paint job. Although since they’re ork you might have a whole waaagh to paint like this so good luck ! Gork and Mork are proud of ye’ boy !
I'll be going for my own scheme for the rest of his gear, but I absolutely love your colour scheme for the skin tones! Much grittier and darker (a perfect fit for 40k) than a lot of the SUPER cartoony greens I see in a lot of videos.
Just about to start painting my Ork army. This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks for a nice and clear step by step. Kinda wish I had not assembled them all already. Love the skin tones.
I'm in the process of painting a bunch of boys. I've not been timing myself, I think I'm at ~30 minutes per model. The choppas have been looking kind of bad with just a basecoat of on metallic, brown wash, and silver drybrush (coffee stains for days...but on the tabletop they still look decent) . I'm going to incorporate elements of your metal recipe into my choppas and I think I'll get a nicer looking result and add some variety to my heterogeneously painted mob. Thanks for posting. EDIT: Liked and subscribed. I'll probably copy your method on a nob or leadership model some time in the future.
@@infidel305 word. I bought two Dominion boxes, and I have two beast snagga boxes on order at my flgs (they are getting 3, and im the only Ork player in this little town). Then my birthday was yesterday, my mom drops in with a Dominion box. My nephew is excited though, he plays, and I gave him about 5000pts of Stormcast that I got from 2nd and 3rd edition box sets yesterday, and brought him paint shopping. Today we start assembling them for him (he's a bit too young to use hobby knives at 10yo).
realy not difficult you just need patience. had good results base coating, highlighting, inking, then re highlighting. the first highlight can be super messy.
Please oh please, since I can only see Magore's fiends in the distant future, would you be so kind as to create a tutorial for Riptooth? It's a prime target for airbrushing and judging by your past airbrush focused videos it should be super interesting.
Great job. But if anyone think it's painting a ork boy to this find detail level. Remember you a going to need at least 30 ork boyz. And that will drive you nuts. Not to mention having boyz looking that good and finally detail. Elite and leader units are going to have looked as good or better. And painting my Warboss almost as good as this took over a day and a half. And I may still give it a touch up yet.
very nice but imagine doing 39 more of those ! interesting how you paint the components separately, I understand it as I was painting a WW2 sherman the other day and I had glued the tracks on and it was a pain even getting the brush to the rubber wheels on the track of a 28mm model.
A realy nice guide for my first steps with my first airbrush. It looks pretty easy when you do it. So its realy motivating. but the truth is im not that tallentet ;D But i learned soooo much of this guide! Thank you very much!
@@RobPaintsModels yes the consitency is realy hard to get, but slowly i get a better feeling for it :) And even im unpracticed the models look 1000 times better with your guide than before. thx alot. :)
RobPaintsModels I have a hard time getting the same effect with the cadian flesh tone...the areas i hit with it come out too pink/brown after the wash...is this probably just a case of too much cadian flesh?
I've already told my flgs to get me a copy of Speed Freaks when they go up and I will be painting the Kustom Boosta Blasta as a Blood Axe vehicle as voted for by my Patrons.
Love the work on the rusty metal, I tend to put down a metallic as the base layer followed by glazes of various browns. I'll give yours a go though, always good to try something new 😁
what is that gubbins that you stuck the parts to for painting? it looks nice and solid and way better than the cut up polystyrene blocks i am using. (also i realise i am asking this on a 2 year old video XD )
You can still do this method glued together if you aren't worried about overspray or just paint the base colours for the shirt with a brush to avoid overspraying the head. The highlight colour will barely effect the skin tone if it gets on the skin.
Hahahaha. so i should have to worry too much about the terminatus stone eh? I think I'll do what you suggest and Base coat the pants and shirt with a brush then highlight with the airbrush hahahah. Thanks Rob!
Hi, thank you for the guide. When you say ‘if you’ve painted a part when assembling make sure to clean it’ how are you cleaning it please? Painted parts don’t stick together I wondered how you get them to stick. Ta
Just use a hobby knife to scrap away some of the paint on the contacting surfaces so the glue can grip onto the plastic. Some plastic cements will melt through the paint but some won't. Super glue especially needs a bare unpainted surface to work correctly.
Pretty easy. With Ork legs for example you can leave them attached to the sprue as they are connected at points that won't be visible after assembly. For the arms some double sided tape on a coffee stirrer works great for doing up to 5 at a time.
@@RobPaintsModels you do that with mold remover tool / knife? Why no using blu-tack or smart putty instead of removing paint later? Btw - awesome tutorials man, thanks!
Scrape any paint off the contact surfaces and then use plastic cement. Just be careful and don't use so much it squeezes out the sides as it will probably melt the paint.
I use Winsor and Newton galleria acrylic flow improver diluted with water according to the instructions on the bottle. It usually only takes a few drops to get the paint flowing nicely.
I noticed that when you apply the wash and then move it around with a clean brush it doesn't leave that 'dirty coffee stain' effect on the flat areas where you don't want it to go, is that because the wash and the base paint underneath are complementary or do you do something special with your wash like thin it down with water or acrylic thinner ? I hate it when I spray my ultramarines in McCragge Blue and get a perfectly smooth surface and then I apply the nuln oil wash and it stains it on the blue base paint (around the non-recessed flat areas of the model) even though I am as careful as possible to try and get it in the recesses (I've tried modifying the wash paint on the brush and looking at it with magnifiers etc and no luck). The clean up job with McCragge Blue never produces a clean/smooth surface like the airbrush does and it drives me nuts having to do it. I'm seriously considering spraying a Vallejo Gloss varnish on it, doing a pin wash after with nuln oil then spraying it with matte varnish to dull it down again and continue the painting. If the nuln oil misbehaves during the pin wash described above I'm seriously considering using those Daley Rowney FW inks thinned down or maybe some oil paints thinned down with white spirits (although I hear the OILS are better for surfaces that should look like metal. And using the inks or the oils for a wash isn't ideal as they're meant to be glossy and then it's another coat of matte varnish to dull them down. I'm a bit disheartened at it really, I want a fast clean way of painting lots of ultramarines as fast as possible to a reasonably high table top standard.
The trick is to do it quickly. When you are doing your marines for example apply the wash to just one leg or the chest and clean up straight away with a damp brush. Acrylic washes start drying immediately so you have to be fast, if you wash the entire model then by the time you get round to cleaning up the wash will already be drying and will leave stains. It's also important that the surface you clean is still wet as this will feather out the wash preventing a tide mark.
Makes perfect sense, because if you leave it too long the wash medium carrying the medium will dry and the pigment will settle on the surface of the base paint (flat areas) where you don't want it. The trick is maybe to have a set of differently sized brushes already wet with a jar of water for rinsing, a good light to see where the wash medium has spilled out onto the flat areas, some paper towel and as you advised to do clean up fast and focus on one small part of the mini. Ok thanks. The wash was drying so fast that I was going back afterwards to rub away the dried wash with a wet wooden toothpick (this works sometimes / not always though hence my frustration).
Dave Dogge another way to do it is as you said to use a gloss varnish. But try using the gloss wash after that instead of the normal wash. Theres literally zero staining and a bit quicker when just doing one wash and batch painting. I found it an easy and quick way to get my ultras finished. Airbrush basecoat macragge, gloss varnish, gloss nuln oil all over, matte varnish. Finishing up bolters and what have you over the matte varnish.
yup quote "Airbrush basecoat macragge, gloss varnish, gloss nuln oil all over, matte varnish" is what I plan to do. I'm going to use my cheap chinese airbrush for the varnish (aint using my expensive ones). Strangely I've never airbrushed varnish before but I'll be very quick about cleaning it up because it sounds like a nightmare to clean from the tip / cup, a little bit of airflow improver may help also. I got a bit fed up with the Citadel Washes actually (not their fault, it's my technique) but I bought some FW inks as a fallback in case the pin wash after the gloss doesn't work with nuln oil.
I'm not sure if you have control of it, but there were way to many ads to enjoy this video for to long. The painting was great, your voice was nice, but being told to buy apple products ever 3-5 minutes was obnoxious and made the video hard to enjoy even though it was great.
I'm eternally hunting for Ork skin recipes, very peculiar about my tastes here. This is so good. Watching the vid makes me want to go buy another box of boyz and paint 'em up. Really love your yellows, too.
Hi there, I know this is quite an old video now, but I just want to say that as someone new to Warhammer, and who's starting with Badmoon Orks this is really inspiring to watch, and a great example of something amazing I can strive to be able to replicate in the future, thanks so much for sharing this.
This video singlehandedly caused me to buy my first airbrush.
Genius to use the screamer pink on the yellow. Greeat stuff!
this is a truly astonishing ork paint job. Although since they’re ork you might have a whole waaagh to paint like this so good luck ! Gork and Mork are proud of ye’ boy !
Love how you've painted the skin. Never thought about using cadian fleshtone for a highlight
It's just a subtle variation on my oldest ever video.
I'll be going for my own scheme for the rest of his gear, but I absolutely love your colour scheme for the skin tones! Much grittier and darker (a perfect fit for 40k) than a lot of the SUPER cartoony greens I see in a lot of videos.
Great color scheme
This is honestly the best ork skin I've ever seen.
Just about to start painting my Ork army. This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks for a nice and clear step by step. Kinda wish I had not assembled them all already. Love the skin tones.
Same
Such a good toturlial, love orcs, have subscribed, all the best Garry
Im painting my next box of boyz like this
Love the pink to shade yellow!
Really like that thinned down screamer pink over the yellow! Great technique that im totally going to steal.
Same here... I am going To rework my yeloow armors with this tip :) . Thkx
I'm in the process of painting a bunch of boys. I've not been timing myself, I think I'm at ~30 minutes per model. The choppas have been looking kind of bad with just a basecoat of on metallic, brown wash, and silver drybrush (coffee stains for days...but on the tabletop they still look decent) . I'm going to incorporate elements of your metal recipe into my choppas and I think I'll get a nicer looking result and add some variety to my heterogeneously painted mob. Thanks for posting. EDIT: Liked and subscribed. I'll probably copy your method on a nob or leadership model some time in the future.
imagine painting 90 boyz like this
Im up to 60 boys 30 grots10 nobs
no airbrush
Imagine thinking you'd only paint 90.
No sir, you then become obsessed with Orks, and realize AoS has a WHOLE OTHER ORK LINE!
@@stonehorn4641 tell me about it. I still got ghaz, a nob box, a warboss box and a dominion orruk side to paint.lets not talk about my 3d prints lol.
@@infidel305 word. I bought two Dominion boxes, and I have two beast snagga boxes on order at my flgs (they are getting 3, and im the only Ork player in this little town). Then my birthday was yesterday, my mom drops in with a Dominion box.
My nephew is excited though, he plays, and I gave him about 5000pts of Stormcast that I got from 2nd and 3rd edition box sets yesterday, and brought him paint shopping. Today we start assembling them for him (he's a bit too young to use hobby knives at 10yo).
@@stonehorn4641 yeah i found a half box for $80 169 wife would kill me
Well, whipping out my boyz, I love this skin combination
Love your painting very talented can't stand the background music
That’s awsome
Looks realistic to me mate. If orks have red blood “lol” then the lighter shade on the face and elbows make sense. Good vid.
This is some very very nice looking ork's skin, I need to paint my Orks in this color
Awesome
Will try it without an airbrush
brilliant video mr Rob! excellent quality and great painting, i can't wait to see more :)
Would love to see a tutorial on how to get that skin with brush only
He did one with the Iron jaws from shadespire, it's also a great tutorial for painting yellow.
@@ebonytimothy8672 will check it out thanks
realy not difficult you just need patience. had good results base coating, highlighting, inking, then re highlighting. the first highlight can be super messy.
Amazing mate, well done
I use seriphim sepia to shade orks.its also very good.
Please oh please, since I can only see Magore's fiends in the distant future, would you be so kind as to create a tutorial for Riptooth? It's a prime target for airbrushing and judging by your past airbrush focused videos it should be super interesting.
amazing work !!! grz !!!
Great job. But if anyone think it's painting a ork boy to this find detail level. Remember you a going to need at least 30 ork boyz. And that will drive you nuts. Not to mention having boyz looking that good and finally detail. Elite and leader units are going to have looked as good or better. And painting my Warboss almost as good as this took over a day and a half. And I may still give it a touch up yet.
Amazing! Subscribed
Well played Sir...
very nice but imagine doing 39 more of those ! interesting how you paint the components separately, I understand it as I was painting a WW2 sherman the other day and I had glued the tracks on and it was a pain even getting the brush to the rubber wheels on the track of a 28mm model.
I'm doing a full kill team like this right now. I'd never paint anything in batches larger than 10 if I can help it or else it gets too boring.
Excellent! Thanks!
A realy nice guide for my first steps with my first airbrush. It looks pretty easy when you do it. So its realy motivating. but the truth is im not that tallentet ;D But i learned soooo much of this guide! Thank you very much!
You'll get the hang of it with practice. It's all about trigger control and paint consistency really and both just take time to develop.
@@RobPaintsModels yes the consitency is realy hard to get, but slowly i get a better feeling for it :) And even im unpracticed the models look 1000 times better with your guide than before. thx alot. :)
RobPaintsModels I have a hard time getting the same effect with the cadian flesh tone...the areas i hit with it come out too pink/brown after the wash...is this probably just a case of too much cadian flesh?
You need more subs rob! You’ve really inspired me to paint orks!
Would you consider painting any of the new ork vehicles once they get released?
I've already told my flgs to get me a copy of Speed Freaks when they go up and I will be painting the Kustom Boosta Blasta as a Blood Axe vehicle as voted for by my Patrons.
I cant believe the skill here. Looks fantastic! Question: what could be a good GW substitute for the vallejo Chrome?
Love the skin it's amazing
what glue you use to assemble after airbrush?
What are you using to block off the area's?
Do you have a guide on how to do the sub assembly?
Love the work on the rusty metal, I tend to put down a metallic as the base layer followed by glazes of various browns.
I'll give yours a go though, always good to try something new 😁
This version is about speed rather than quality. It's much faster to just sponge over a brown than to paint rust on a metal surface.
@@RobPaintsModels still it looks damned good
what is that gubbins that you stuck the parts to for painting? it looks nice and solid and way better than the cut up polystyrene blocks i am using. (also i realise i am asking this on a 2 year old video XD )
Shit. I glued all 60 of them whilst waiting for this video to come out
You can still do this method glued together if you aren't worried about overspray or just paint the base colours for the shirt with a brush to avoid overspraying the head. The highlight colour will barely effect the skin tone if it gets on the skin.
Hahahaha. so i should have to worry too much about the terminatus stone eh? I think I'll do what you suggest and Base coat the pants and shirt with a brush then highlight with the airbrush hahahah. Thanks Rob!
2 hours! Crazy good i let my washes dry half a day at least for good measure.
Stephan Du Plooy grab a hair dryer! I think I let mine dry about 5 minutes :)
Unapreciated painting video, wich GW did their like this ,
Sooo, where’s that magnifier review? :)
My orcs are very light blue. But this gives me some good ideas for how to make mine better.
Hi, thank you for the guide. When you say ‘if you’ve painted a part when assembling make sure to clean it’ how are you cleaning it please? Painted parts don’t stick together I wondered how you get them to stick. Ta
Just use a hobby knife to scrap away some of the paint on the contacting surfaces so the glue can grip onto the plastic. Some plastic cements will melt through the paint but some won't. Super glue especially needs a bare unpainted surface to work correctly.
Excellent thanks!
The sad thing is the paint is more expensive than model boxes.
Also orks having red blood has always puzzled me, shouldnt orks be super fast now.
Krumped it. Good work.
How do you find it painting sub assemblies when doing large batches?
Pretty easy. With Ork legs for example you can leave them attached to the sprue as they are connected at points that won't be visible after assembly. For the arms some double sided tape on a coffee stirrer works great for doing up to 5 at a time.
4:11 damn that boy thicc
Stellar job Rob.
what is the pink putty/tac that you use to mask???
Just blutac but it's pink. I think it was a breast cancer related thing.
When you assembly them later - there is no problem when you glue them? Bare plastic and plastic glue works better or not?
Always remove paint from the surfaces to be glued together first. Plastic glue will work fine.
@@RobPaintsModels you do that with mold remover tool / knife? Why no using blu-tack or smart putty instead of removing paint later? Btw - awesome tutorials man, thanks!
No reason really. It's just what I do.
do you just glue it together afterwards with plastic glue ? do you scrape paint off the areas before gluing?
Scrape any paint off the contact surfaces and then use plastic cement. Just be careful and don't use so much it squeezes out the sides as it will probably melt the paint.
Anyone know what he says at 0:45 ?
It sounded to me like he said "Now we're going to do a semi-full highlight"?
Zenithal :)
How do you thin the citadel paints for air brushing?
I use Winsor and Newton galleria acrylic flow improver diluted with water according to the instructions on the bottle. It usually only takes a few drops to get the paint flowing nicely.
I noticed that when you apply the wash and then move it around with a clean brush it doesn't leave that 'dirty coffee stain' effect on the flat areas where you don't want it to go, is that because the wash and the base paint underneath are complementary or do you do something special with your wash like thin it down with water or acrylic thinner ?
I hate it when I spray my ultramarines in McCragge Blue and get a perfectly smooth surface and then I apply the nuln oil wash and it stains it on the blue base paint (around the non-recessed flat areas of the model) even though I am as careful as possible to try and get it in the recesses (I've tried modifying the wash paint on the brush and looking at it with magnifiers etc and no luck). The clean up job with McCragge Blue never produces a clean/smooth surface like the airbrush does and it drives me nuts having to do it. I'm seriously considering spraying a Vallejo Gloss varnish on it, doing a pin wash after with nuln oil then spraying it with matte varnish to dull it down again and continue the painting. If the nuln oil misbehaves during the pin wash described above I'm seriously considering using those Daley Rowney FW inks thinned down or maybe some oil paints thinned down with white spirits (although I hear the OILS are better for surfaces that should look like metal. And using the inks or the oils for a wash isn't ideal as they're meant to be glossy and then it's another coat of matte varnish to dull them down. I'm a bit disheartened at it really, I want a fast clean way of painting lots of ultramarines as fast as possible to a reasonably high table top standard.
The trick is to do it quickly. When you are doing your marines for example apply the wash to just one leg or the chest and clean up straight away with a damp brush. Acrylic washes start drying immediately so you have to be fast, if you wash the entire model then by the time you get round to cleaning up the wash will already be drying and will leave stains. It's also important that the surface you clean is still wet as this will feather out the wash preventing a tide mark.
Makes perfect sense, because if you leave it too long the wash medium carrying the medium will dry and the pigment will settle on the surface of the base paint (flat areas) where you don't want it. The trick is maybe to have a set of differently sized brushes already wet with a jar of water for rinsing, a good light to see where the wash medium has spilled out onto the flat areas, some paper towel and as you advised to do clean up fast and focus on one small part of the mini. Ok thanks. The wash was drying so fast that I was going back afterwards to rub away the dried wash with a wet wooden toothpick (this works sometimes / not always though hence my frustration).
Dave Dogge another way to do it is as you said to use a gloss varnish. But try using the gloss wash after that instead of the normal wash. Theres literally zero staining and a bit quicker when just doing one wash and batch painting. I found it an easy and quick way to get my ultras finished.
Airbrush basecoat macragge, gloss varnish, gloss nuln oil all over, matte varnish. Finishing up bolters and what have you over the matte varnish.
yup quote "Airbrush basecoat macragge, gloss varnish, gloss nuln oil all over, matte varnish" is what I plan to do. I'm going to use my cheap chinese airbrush for the varnish (aint using my expensive ones). Strangely I've never airbrushed varnish before but I'll be very quick about cleaning it up because it sounds like a nightmare to clean from the tip / cup, a little bit of airflow improver may help also. I got a bit fed up with the Citadel Washes actually (not their fault, it's my technique) but I bought some FW inks as a fallback in case the pin wash after the gloss doesn't work with nuln oil.
Sucks that I don't own airbrush :(
now do this to about 233 more boyz
I'm not sure if you have control of it, but there were way to many ads to enjoy this video for to long. The painting was great, your voice was nice, but being told to buy apple products ever 3-5 minutes was obnoxious and made the video hard to enjoy even though it was great.
These tutorials are great and all, but people really need to stop assuming everyone has/wants an airbrush.