Well I learned something today. I’d enjoy an additional video of Josh adjusting, filing, and testing a mute to get it dialed in. It would give me some additional confidence before trying it myself.
Thank you! I acquired a shorty straight mute (Humes & Berg) to use with a plunger about 50 years ago. It would not reliably sound a C below the staff. I thought it was the nature of the beast. I filed the corks and Voila! It plays that C just fine.
Mute Monday rules! 🤩 I’ve done this after seeing it mentioned in Josh Wagner’s video a while back. Huge difference and a lot of fun to have the improvement. I use a beauty file for feet skin, it has two different grades and works very well. I’ve asked Frank Huber about this already and he responded that his corks are slim as it is so not much adjustment is needed. Thanks Josh!
Your first mute, the straight stone coated, sounded similar to me. There was a bigger difference on the second stone coated cup mute. But it also was closer to the bell and the volume was lower. I liked the lower note more with the closer cup. For Trombone I've read that if the mute plays flat, file the corks to move it in, and if it plays sharp you need to move it out. I'm having issues with a stone coated H&B cup mute. I've drilled it and its a little better. But I haven't filed the corks as it plays sharp already. Just sounds real muddy to me.
I ended up filing down the H&B Stone Lined Cup Mute on a Straight King 3B Plus Trombone until we are about 1/8" to to tip of the wings on the cup. Much better sound. Also much quieter. I also had drilled a 1/4" hole in the cone just above the cup (inside the cup) to get to the low E (7th position on the Trombone). The tuner app on my phone show little change in pitch. Its still sharp by about 1/2 position. At least now we have a cup mute I don't mind using. Though if I blow the horn without the mute one has to wonder why anyone would write music requiring us to put a cup mute in. Prior to filing the cork the mute was muddy starting at the middle D, even with the hole. I used 120 grit sand paper backed up with a flat block of wood. Taking 20 strokes on each cork between testing until I was happier. It took over 120 strokes on each cork.
Thanks Josh! Love the mute series, and this one in particular. You'd think this information would be basic to the trumpet pedagogy at music school, but sadly that's not the case in my experience.
Thank, glad you’re enjoying the videos! Correct, it should be common knowledge that is taught, but somehow it isn’t. Amazing how so many people think they have dud mutes and they just need to be adjusted properly.
I'm guessing it's because you get people using school mutes and they don't want students filing the corks only for it to be filed too far for the next person who borrows them.
I learned to file corks from Roger Ingram's website. After I started doing that, mutes that were so horrible I didn't even want to sell them became stellar. I have some of the early East Chicago Humes & Berg mutes and I noticed they fit perfectly without doing anything and sound great. Even the cups seat with the points nearly against the bell. Made my job easier. I also noticed something that seems counterintuitive: C trumpet mutes _seem_ to work well with thicker corks. I can use mutes tuned for my Bb on my C without any real issues despite the mute seating further out - low F# speaks easily and the sound is relatively stable and in tune. Have you had any similar experience?
Great! Roger is such an expert, and his website is a fantastic resource. I don’t play all that much C trumpet, and when I do it’s rarely with mutes. I have a few mutes that I know work great, so I stick with those. I’ll have to experiment with some others and see.
Pixies are the most problematic, but almost all mutes need filing. I do have a couple I can’t get in tune tho. One is a Shastock Pixie. I’ve got them filed down to where there’s almost nothing left and it still blows sharp. Do you think moving the corks towards the bottom would help? The other mute that has issues is a Styrotone “Harmon”. It’s fine with the stem in all the way down to F#, but won’t play below the staff with it out. The cork is really thick on these, but filing a round cork seems like asking for trouble, and if it messes it up, I don’t know where to get cork that thick to replace it. Thin cork is easy to buy.
I haven't experimented much with the shastock pixie, perhaps moving them will help if all else fails. The styratone "Harmon" has always been a poor performing mute for me with the stem out - I really only would consider using it with the stem in place.
Glad you liked the video! I try and keep a slightly rounded profile, to fit the inside of the bell. Mostly flat on the top, rounded a little on the edge.
Hello. Great video. I just bought a Soulo Mute, straight mute (half aluminum/half copper); how much would you file the corks? what distance should separate the mute from the bell of the trumpet? Thank you.
Thanks for watching! It really depends on the horn - but if you're happy with the sound, response, and intonation, then you're good to go! If some of the notes aren't so good (particularly down low) then you'll want to file them down a little. Generally that mute works pretty well for most right out of the gate.
Great video. Looks like I either need to buy some new mutes or designate one of my Bb trumpets the ‘mute trumpet’ . Unfortunately I have a bit of a collecting habit!
Josh, any advice on filing corks for a Dennis Wick piccolo trumpet straight mute?? Just bought one brand new and the corks will definitely need to be filed.
I'd start slowly ... maybe some rough sandpaper and a nail file. If you need to take a LOT off I'd use an exacto knife. I'd probably tune it to something in F (on the picc) as that's the key I most often play in, and then you could tune the Cs and Fs.
Go slowly until the low F# responds well and plays evenly and in tune, that’s generally the one that needs the most help. Yes, if you take off too much then you may need to start over with new corks, so a little bit at a time. That’s never happened to me, so I wouldn’t really worry about it too much. If you feel like you’ve overdone it, replacing the corks isn’t terribly difficult or expensive, but it does take a little bit of time and effort.
@Josh Rzepka Thank you, that gives me more confidence to try it. Still a little confused since that low F# needs to have slide extended to tune anyway so that affects tuning more than cork adjustments.
So long as it's as "in tune" as your horn usually plays for that note, then I'd focus on the response/articulation and openness/fullness of sound/response. On many horns the low Ab, G, F# ... those can be less resonant and sound off when the corks aren't dialed in. If everything feels more or less even without any notes that aren't resonating or dead sounding, they you've got it dialed in as well as possible.
Is there any benefit to filing the corks on the likes of a harmon or practice mute? My assumption is no, but figured I'd ask on the of chance of being surprised.
Typically there is no need, but on a few obscure mutes (ullven harmon, for instance) it is necessary and was intended by the manufacturer (source: spoke to manufacturer)
I would say to make sure you just take it gradually. If you go too far with a cup mute it'll potentially be too close to the bell/touching, and that may buzz. Even further and it'll fall out. With a straight/pixie, you'll eventually get to a point where the gap is so small that the sound starts getting muffled and projection tanks because there won't be a large enough gap between the mute and bell. When the low F# starts to lock in and really feel solid, then you're good to go.
It really depends, is it in tune and playing well as it is? Most adjustable mutes if you adjust it close it plays well. You can open it a certain amount with it still playing evenly. If you shave the cork too much ... then you wont be able to adjust it. Some are designed to be able to be used as a straight mute without the bottom, so that may be a factor. On my Wick the corks are filed down a little bit.
Well I learned something today. I’d enjoy an additional video of Josh adjusting, filing, and testing a mute to get it dialed in. It would give me some additional confidence before trying it myself.
Good idea, I’ll try and see if I can make something like that. Maybe I’ll make a short quick one.
Thank you!
I acquired a shorty straight mute (Humes & Berg) to use with a plunger about 50 years ago. It would not reliably sound a C below the staff. I thought it was the nature of the beast. I filed the corks and Voila! It plays that C just fine.
Awesome!! Very glad to hear. A lot of mutes can be saved with a little time and a file.
Mute Monday rules! 🤩 I’ve done this after seeing it mentioned in Josh Wagner’s video a while back. Huge difference and a lot of fun to have the improvement. I use a beauty file for feet skin, it has two different grades and works very well. I’ve asked Frank Huber about this already and he responded that his corks are slim as it is so not much adjustment is needed. Thanks Josh!
Thank you, Dirk! Much appreciated!
Дякую за огляд!!!
You're welcome!
Best.quality .of trumpets. Matching , with great , designed of mute '....smart's
Thanks!
Glad you found my video helpful!
Your first mute, the straight stone coated, sounded similar to me. There was a bigger difference on the second stone coated cup mute. But it also was closer to the bell and the volume was lower. I liked the lower note more with the closer cup.
For Trombone I've read that if the mute plays flat, file the corks to move it in, and if it plays sharp you need to move it out. I'm having issues with a stone coated H&B cup mute. I've drilled it and its a little better. But I haven't filed the corks as it plays sharp already. Just sounds real muddy to me.
I ended up filing down the H&B Stone Lined Cup Mute on a Straight King 3B Plus Trombone until we are about 1/8" to to tip of the wings on the cup. Much better sound. Also much quieter. I also had drilled a 1/4" hole in the cone just above the cup (inside the cup) to get to the low E (7th position on the Trombone). The tuner app on my phone show little change in pitch. Its still sharp by about 1/2 position. At least now we have a cup mute I don't mind using. Though if I blow the horn without the mute one has to wonder why anyone would write music requiring us to put a cup mute in.
Prior to filing the cork the mute was muddy starting at the middle D, even with the hole.
I used 120 grit sand paper backed up with a flat block of wood. Taking 20 strokes on each cork between testing until I was happier. It took over 120 strokes on each cork.
Thank you. The advice to get the cup closer to the bell works.
Great!
Interesting info in the trombone mutes ... that's not something I've got any real expertise with. Really just trumpets 🎺🎺
I bought a Humes & Berg cup mute, the stock corks are enormous !I am trying to file it and tune it well. thanks for the advices !!!
Let me know how it goes! Thanks for watching 🎺🎺
Thanks Josh! Love the mute series, and this one in particular. You'd think this information would be basic to the trumpet pedagogy at music school, but sadly that's not the case in my experience.
Thank, glad you’re enjoying the videos!
Correct, it should be common knowledge that is taught, but somehow it isn’t. Amazing how so many people think they have dud mutes and they just need to be adjusted properly.
I'm guessing it's because you get people using school mutes and they don't want students filing the corks only for it to be filed too far for the next person who borrows them.
Wow!
I learned to file corks from Roger Ingram's website. After I started doing that, mutes that were so horrible I didn't even want to sell them became stellar.
I have some of the early East Chicago Humes & Berg mutes and I noticed they fit perfectly without doing anything and sound great. Even the cups seat with the points nearly against the bell. Made my job easier.
I also noticed something that seems counterintuitive: C trumpet mutes _seem_ to work well with thicker corks. I can use mutes tuned for my Bb on my C without any real issues despite the mute seating further out - low F# speaks easily and the sound is relatively stable and in tune. Have you had any similar experience?
Great! Roger is such an expert, and his website is a fantastic resource.
I don’t play all that much C trumpet, and when I do it’s rarely with mutes. I have a few mutes that I know work great, so I stick with those. I’ll have to experiment with some others and see.
Pixies are the most problematic, but almost all mutes need filing. I do have a couple I can’t get in tune tho. One is a Shastock Pixie. I’ve got them filed down to where there’s almost nothing left and it still blows sharp. Do you think moving the corks towards the bottom would help? The other mute that has issues is a Styrotone “Harmon”. It’s fine with the stem in all the way down to F#, but won’t play below the staff with it out. The cork is really thick on these, but filing a round cork seems like asking for trouble, and if it messes it up, I don’t know where to get cork that thick to replace it. Thin cork is easy to buy.
I haven't experimented much with the shastock pixie, perhaps moving them will help if all else fails. The styratone "Harmon" has always been a poor performing mute for me with the stem out - I really only would consider using it with the stem in place.
Big differences! Much more clarity when filed. Do you file straight/flat, or try to dish for more contact with the bell profile?
Glad you liked the video! I try and keep a slightly rounded profile, to fit the inside of the bell. Mostly flat on the top, rounded a little on the edge.
Hello. Great video. I just bought a Soulo Mute, straight mute (half aluminum/half copper); how much would you file the corks? what distance should separate the mute from the bell of the trumpet? Thank you.
Thanks for watching! It really depends on the horn - but if you're happy with the sound, response, and intonation, then you're good to go! If some of the notes aren't so good (particularly down low) then you'll want to file them down a little. Generally that mute works pretty well for most right out of the gate.
Great video. Looks like I either need to buy some new mutes or designate one of my Bb trumpets the ‘mute trumpet’ . Unfortunately I have a bit of a collecting habit!
Well, my vote is always for more mutes. 😂🤣
Wow! Great info... Not enough players know this
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful. It’s def overlooked by the majority of players.
Josh, any advice on filing corks for a Dennis Wick piccolo trumpet straight mute?? Just bought one brand new and the corks will definitely need to be filed.
I'd start slowly ... maybe some rough sandpaper and a nail file. If you need to take a LOT off I'd use an exacto knife. I'd probably tune it to something in F (on the picc) as that's the key I most often play in, and then you could tune the Cs and Fs.
But how much to file? Could too much cork be removed? And it can't be put back, so ruined? What is ultimately goal for where to stop sanding?
Go slowly until the low F# responds well and plays evenly and in tune, that’s generally the one that needs the most help.
Yes, if you take off too much then you may need to start over with new corks, so a little bit at a time. That’s never happened to me, so I wouldn’t really worry about it too much.
If you feel like you’ve overdone it, replacing the corks isn’t terribly difficult or expensive, but it does take a little bit of time and effort.
@Josh Rzepka Thank you, that gives me more confidence to try it. Still a little confused since that low F# needs to have slide extended to tune anyway so that affects tuning more than cork adjustments.
So long as it's as "in tune" as your horn usually plays for that note, then I'd focus on the response/articulation and openness/fullness of sound/response. On many horns the low Ab, G, F# ... those can be less resonant and sound off when the corks aren't dialed in. If everything feels more or less even without any notes that aren't resonating or dead sounding, they you've got it dialed in as well as possible.
Is there any benefit to filing the corks on the likes of a harmon or practice mute? My assumption is no, but figured I'd ask on the of chance of being surprised.
Typically there is no need, but on a few obscure mutes (ullven harmon, for instance) it is necessary and was intended by the manufacturer (source: spoke to manufacturer)
What happens to the tuning, tone and response if you cut too much off? How do you know when you're messing it up and need to stop?
I would say to make sure you just take it gradually. If you go too far with a cup mute it'll potentially be too close to the bell/touching, and that may buzz. Even further and it'll fall out.
With a straight/pixie, you'll eventually get to a point where the gap is so small that the sound starts getting muffled and projection tanks because there won't be a large enough gap between the mute and bell.
When the low F# starts to lock in and really feel solid, then you're good to go.
Do you need to adjust the corks on an adjustable cup mute, e. g. Denis Wick?
It really depends, is it in tune and playing well as it is? Most adjustable mutes if you adjust it close it plays well. You can open it a certain amount with it still playing evenly.
If you shave the cork too much ... then you wont be able to adjust it.
Some are designed to be able to be used as a straight mute without the bottom, so that may be a factor.
On my Wick the corks are filed down a little bit.
first
Woo! Now the real question is, do you file the corks on your mutes?!?
@@JoshRzepkaMusic nope 😂 I'll try it out tomorrow
Lmk how it goes! I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.