I am not an electrician nor studying to become one. However, this has been one of the BEST tutorials I have ever come across. Hats off to the instructor! Keep up the great work! 👍
As a retired college lecture, (Trowel trades; 37 years) and HMI assessor, I can really appreciate the quality of this demonstration and the effort that has gone into the preparation for it, well done.
As a "Learner" I found this video incredibly helpful. Thank You! I'll now go back out to the shed and remake those connections like you showed, so they last 50 years!
00:00 - How to connect up sockets 00:42 - Making off my first BS 1363 twin socket outlet 00:48 - Connections in the back of a twin socket outlet 01:13 - Cutting the cables to length for a twin socket outlet 01:48 - How deep are the terminals in the back of a twin socket outlet 03:03 - Terminating the line (live) conductors into the back of a twin socket outlet 03:35 - How to double over the conductors into the back of a socket outlet 05:03 - Terminating the neutral conductors into the back of a twin socket outlet 06:17 - The correct conductor length in the back of a twin socket outlet 06:35 - Terminating the CPC's (earths) conductors into the back of a twin socket outlet 08:52 - Putting the twin socket front onto the socket box 09:07 - Top tip when connecting socket outlets 09:52 - Connections in the back of our second twin socket outlet 10:22 - Cutting the cables to length for a twin socket outlet 11:14 - Connecting up a twin BS 1363 socket outlet 13:29 - Summary of learning for second fixing a twin socket outlet
I love these video's. I am what I would class as a competent DIY'er and my electrician allows me to do the horrible cable pulls and preparation and I always follow the 70mm and doubling over as shown here. I also watched the 2 plate method series as I am rewiring this way as I go. Brilliant series.
An excellent tutorial. RSVP, spot on. EDIP, very professional. These letters apply to individuals who have military tutoring skills. Very informative and easy to assimilate. One comment I'd like to pass to others. This tutorial is done by a tutor teaching his students. No fads, no if's, but's or how evers. If you don't like how he achieves his object, or the information disseminated, DON'T watch. To me (and like minded tutors) this presentation was 1st class. An 'A' grade.
Once again, thanks for making me feel good about my DIY electrical jobs. Starting with long wires in box, then correct screwdriver, then test termination to guage wire length for socket brand, use tight fitting earth sleeve so doesn't slip and spoil contact in earth terminal. I do all that as I fix the sloppy work of recommended, registered, reputable professionals. I think I've found a good one and hope he's available for the consumer unit replacement I'd like done before Christmas
Really helping me whilst in at college.. doing my level 2 and currently doing this now! A lot of great tips and tricks in your videos that feels like it’s just that extra sense of insight!
Very helpful series of tutorials. You talk about terminal drivers vs the 'electricians screwdriver'. How would you differentiate them? What blade sizes?
Excellent tutorial, Thank you. I recently bought sockets from screwfix and its a few years since i carried out a rewire. I design and make things for a living and could not believe what I was seeing. when the powers at be spout Regs and health and saftey at every breath and then I come across the very points that you made about shallow terminals, different depth terminals on the same socket and having two seperate cpc connectors, I can now call total bullshit this whole set up. First of all make all suppliers of electrical sockets conform to one standard so that all the sockets have their terminals in the same place and the same depth also have one cpc connector joined internaly (dont understand why you are connecting them seperatley but stand to be corrected if you have a valid reason ie how many people have been killed because both cpcs have been connected to one connector). Next one of the big companys like Milwaukee need to make a tool that cuts evrything in one go and folds the cable ends automatically including the correct length of the outer cable so that its a one press button operation in about 5 seconds. An electricians job is hard work and if all this was applied it would cut down the termination side of the job by 2/3rds not to mention ware and tear on the electricians hands(which matters when you are the wrong side of 50 and you still have to work until you are 67}. Lastly, this whole system needs to be dumped and changed to the wago system and be done with this. All electrician need to get together and only buy one type of socket, that would force the manufacturers of the crap sockets to change or go out of business. We need more People in charge that have a technical background not academics/ lawyers/ economist, preferably non university graduates. We need more Elon Musks(people that can think for themselves and are not sheep). Ok Rant over, going back to finish the termination now(oh joy).
You right the amount of wrong connector terminal some appliance light fitting don't mach the uk irish wire ring standard And who come with the idea for lsf cable in domestic forget how to work Cable more rigid very hard to strip bulkier and personally I prefer when a smke smell from cable Many call out when people smell something is wrong
Been an electrician for 26 years and I’ve never used a knife like that to remove insulation. Snips or actual wire strippers. Do everything else the same. Double back connections, leave a good length on conductors.
Great simple tuition and someone who knows his screwdrivers 😀 a driver for lighting and then larger one for the sockets , I bet you don’t brake your drivers , 👍
Is the difference between those two screwdrivers explained somewhere? From the couple seconds they were in focus they looked roughly the same size of slotted, just one being VDE and the other not.
Doubling over the cable, what do you do when there are three cables coming in rather than two (eg spur off ring)? Keep them all straight? Usually three doubled over will not fit in.
You only need to double over the conductors when there is only one going to each terminal, on a radeal or a ring main there's will always be two conductors to each of the terminals so no need for boubleling over, the only reason for it is so as the terminal screw has somthing to bite on to
Same here, single cables get doubled, 2 or 3 don't get doubled ... the only exception would be for cpc especially when there is 2 ports on the outlet. My only issue with doubled solid conductors is that it work hardens the copper and of its then straightened back out there is a high probability it will break so as a rule I never try to fold it back over, cut, strip and create a new doubled end. This also has its own problems when the cables are short to start. I personally think a screw in terminal is best for outlets, I know there are "wago" style outlets available but I find them to be "chunky" in depth foe example 2 legs of a rung and a spur in a 25mm recessed box, client wants to change for a USB outlet ..... leaves almost no space between the rear of the socket and the back box .... the only change I'd like to see is swapping the traditional screw to the clamping arrangement that is common on MCB, RCDs, Main switch etc. Would allow more room at each port, even clamping and would negate the need to double the ends over. Putting wago connections on outlets is great for ease in connecting but on the flip side most of the faults, loose connections, spur on spur on spur from am excited DIY'er is rampant now and will get worse due to the few that are put off trying now will go the opposite way and add to the DIY "It was like it originally" -- "I always use an electrician" - "my mates a spark" and so on.... 🤣 thoes who know how to wire a plug so they can wire a socket.....its only 3 wires and they are colour coded 🤣
Really interesting and useful (sad I know...) - many thanks. I haven't seen the doubling over of the wire since my Father used to wire things (and he wasn't an electrician). I'll start doing that as well. The 50mm plus length of the box is a useful guide.
There is a document listing the torque for plugs and sockets in BS 1363-1:2016 13 A plugs, socket-outlets, adaptors and connection units. Specification for rewirable and non-rewirable 13 A fused plugs
I have heard sparks say that the reason for doubling over the ends of conductors is to give double the CSA at the point of termination and to fill the terminal up. I can see the point about filling the terminal but I was taught that the main reason for doubling over is so that the screw clamps down onto the conductors more firmly. Your thoughts Gaz🤔 I have to say: Crabtree, instincts socket outlets have clamps instead of screws and IMO are the best on the market. No doubling over required. They're superb 👍
Instinct Range From Crabtree - Electrical Accessories Designed to Make Life Easier for Electricians th-cam.com/video/oRJKiImSpJE/w-d-xo.html I like the instinct range. The larger the conductors (doubling over) the greater the area for the screw to hit 🦾. Thanks for commenting. Gaz
I personally despise the obsession with doubling over. It's not a regulation, and is in breach of manufacturer instructions in 99% of cases. Not following manufacturer instructions can open hell later on if things go wrong.
@@arcadia1701e I agree 👍 it's not something I like either and you're absolutely right about following manufacturers instructions, but I can see how the limited surface area of a screw head is going to make a satisfactory connection doesn't exactly instil confidence. That is why I mentioned the Crabtree clamped terminals. Although screws may be a long established form of connection, I feel it's time to move on😁👍
@@mark86sprk5 That's why you double over, because it gives the feeling of a solid connection. Anyway, I meant in general, not me personally. A single screw terminal is overdue an update and improvement though, wouldn't you agree?
the only time i would double over conductors is when there is only one in the terminal. what if your are taking a spur from the socket, you wouldnt get three doubled over conductors in
I have seen them twisted together found when testing ring and cable broken off. Depends on make they mostly have clamp type terminal I only double the earth wires.
If you have a round screw terminal (as opposed to a cage clamp) you’ll want enough copper in them. Whether that requires doubling over or not will depend on the wire size, number of wires, and size of terminal.
I got a 2 gang power socket in the kitchen plasterboard , which is convention straight from top including twin cables (as per your video). If I wanna extend 3/4 power sockets from that point, shall I connect/extend both the twin cables to the next power socket ?? ?🤔
When doubling over the conductor, if you use the pliers at 90° the teeth of the pliers will prevent the conductor from slipping therefore making the job faster and neater. Plus the less work through the bend will reduce metal fatigue. Also, if you put the CPC sleeve all the way on and then pull back off by the amount that you want exposed and then cut it, then it will be fast and perfect every time.
@@mark86sprk5 You do like to "write" provocatively 😂😂😂. You'll probably get an avalanche of responses coming up with myriad reasons for and against. I used to take the view that one day I might be standing in the dock having to justify my reasons for doing a job "just so". Spending a few moments earthing a box might, rpt might, be your "get out of jail" card. Literally. Most of us will have seen this debate on other vlogs and will have formed an opinion one way or another. This debate is perhaps going to be a reprise of those.
@@t1n4444 i don't mean to provoke but I do resent negligence. Why do anything less than to maintain the integrity of a connection to the highest standard. Any argument to the contrary is not good enough when distributing electricity.
Please i want to ask you this question; what's the right order in which you should arrange your circuit breaker in your consumer unit. should it be from the lowest breaker to the highest or highest breaker to the lowest and why... Thanks
Hi, great video! Q: Why do you need to add CPC sleeving, if it was needed why does it not come as standard? Also, if the CPC size is 1.5m, would you get the same size sleeving, or 0.5 bigger; so in this example 2m. Thank-you!
changed one of my sockets at home.... one of my blue wires had current on it... I know you are supposed to switch of power supply when you work with electricity all right .... is that normal?
What mm cable are you using? Is it best practice to use 2.5mm or 4mm? Also should you always use the ring to connect multiple sockets? or can you stop at the last socket?
Thanks! Excellent video. I’ve rewired a socket and the wires were super stiff. Think they must be 20-30 yrs+ old. Made it difficult to get back in the box. Any tips to make life easier?
Learning the trade and i didn't realise that there was a difference in screwdrivers...? Can anyone tell me, does it really make a difference as to what screwdriver you use...?! Cheers, great video..!
How do I never see the T& E cables with the sleeved CPC surely every T&E cable should be sleeved and do away with the bare CPC T & E NOW just like the AC RCD
Is that single strand 2.5mm cable? Here in Kenya nowadays, rarely will you find a single strand conductor of more than 1.5mm. For 2.5mm and above we have stranded cables only
I'd like to see how much you damaged the copper conductor when you attacked it with a knife! There is a potential for it to snap when you push it back in the box!
For years when working on my own buildings I have twisted the cable ends together when connecting to the socket, is this ok? I was taught that method many years ago by an electrician mate I used to help out on jobs
Thanks for the support - this may help I also have wiring diagrams that are worth taking a look at New House Wiring Changing Lights - Lighting Circuit Using the 2 Plate Method or 3 Plate Method? th-cam.com/video/RO0Zejib7BM/w-d-xo.html
Terminals in a dB have torque settings that are provided by the manufacturer so to comply with regs these must be followed. There are no such instructions on socket terminals. If there were then you would have to use torque driver
@@reeceoverton1421 There is a torque setting guide in BS 1363-1:2016 13 A plugs, socket-outlets, adaptors and connection units. Specification for rewirable and non-rewirable 13 A fused plugs. But I'm not sure if that is a must per the regs.
When i was starting out as an electrician there was this company once which the boss told me off for putting one cpc in each earth terminal on a double gang socket, he said you don't do that which i was confused about why not?
Before that it was the phase - both line and neutral are live conductors. Example if the line has 10 amps in it the neutral also has 10 amps hence both live conductor 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical I get what you're saying but I've just checked some socket wiring instructions online from Schneider and BG and they all call the cables live and earth. No reference to line. To me, line implies a low voltage signal wire carrying data (analogue or digital). You don't want to get that mixed up with a 240V live wire!
Hi there, i had an issue with my consumer unit whilst replacing a double socket. I had replaced an old plastic double socket with a Wandsworth brass double socket. Before doing any work I turned off the relevant consumer unit switch and tested the sockets to ensure no power was running through them. I started with adding the earths to both the socket & back box. During this time strangely the whole consumer unit tripped when the back box got connected to the rear of the socket? AND the same thing happened when I connected the Neutral? I tested the socket and cables when the consumer unit tripped in both instances and found no current running through them? Does anyone know why the consumer unit tripped when I have disabled the circuit that I’m working on? I can only think of some king of static feedback from the brass cover plate? Thanks in advance for any help with this 🙏🏽
RCD’s will usually trip if you touch earth and neutral. There is usually enough floating voltage on the neutral to cause this ( you only need 30ma of current flow. Pain in the arse if you are working in the loft as the lights go out.😂😂
Are you sure you didn't screw one or more of the socket terminal screws in and nipped i to a cable. Change the old socket back and see if that makes any difference. Visually inpect all of the cables in the back box. Either that or you have more then 30mA earth leakage.
Strange that you are using a knife to strip wire first thing I learned in college was put a nick in the wire it will break. That's why t stripers are the way to go in the USA. And they are multiple function. I know it's a little different wire style but it all works the same way. By the way my little girl was born in oxford 32 years ago I'm. Not a stranger to the way things work over there wonderful country You have.
They’re a college - using a stripper isn’t a skill you need to be taught, but stripping with a knife without nicking the wire, that’s hard. So they’re deliberately teaching the hardest methods, because you never know for sure whether you’ll have the fancy tools.
A demonstration on wiring up a single socket would be good rather than the easy peasy double always seen in videos.🙂. Especially the favourite part; cramming all those wires into the back-box. 😵💫
You missed the bit where you have to dig your cables out of the wall first after the plasterers skimmed over the box! Following that I would strip the sheath to the length of a standard English carrot leaving the inner insulation to be stripped using my teeth because I'm old school! 👴🏫🤐
Just wondering why you double over when you have 2 x 2.5mm2 6242y going into a socket? I believe the terminals are designed to accept them in singles, unless just 1 x 2.5mm2 present or 2 x 1.5mm2 need connecting. Connecting the earths... I was told that splitting the cpc’s into the separate terminals provides a clean earth for IT equipment, so maybe you could clarify?
Hi A bit off topic, but why have a busbar and the neutral wires not directly connected into each circuit breaker.? An explanation would be appreciated.
Say you go into the breaker with the neutral, where would it then go after that? The answer is back to the substation at the end of your road. It's the same reason you have an earth busbar, to link all the wires together so that 1 thicker cable can run off somewhere else. Think of it like your cars exhaust manifold. You don't have an exhaust for each cylinder, instead they are grouped together and have 1 larger exhaust pipe going to the rear). MCB's don't require a neutral as they just detect overcurrent. RCD/RCBO's are residual current detectors. A really simple way of explaining this (there's more too this so please don't treat this as gospel) "3.11 amps has gone out through the live, 3.11 amps has come back through the neutral (for example)" Obviously if you only get a current 30mA lower than that it's going to earth somehow.
Very well explained...Gaz . 2 Questions... In video , you mentioned ..( screwdrivers ) Is there any difference between a ", electricians screwdriver & a normal vde (as seen in yr video. ? and video Gaz preferred a separate CPC /earth terminal in a double socket . Is there any reason ...(safety or not really ) ? Thanks any one. 👍💪😁
No to keep things simple for my learners I call it an electricians screwdriver rather than a number 1, 2, 3 etc. We talk about sockets for IT equipment in the classroom so this links to the CPC being in different terminals 👍.
Old electric here normal in the old days mentioned that they didn't have plastic sleeving on the screwdriver to protect your fingers OK. So the normal one was not to be used as for electric work. Hope this helps as he didn't really tell you that.
I am not an electrician nor studying to become one. However, this has been one of the BEST tutorials I have ever come across. Hats off to the instructor! Keep up the great work! 👍
As a retired college lecture, (Trowel trades; 37 years) and HMI assessor, I can really appreciate the quality of this demonstration and the effort that has gone into the preparation for it, well done.
As a "Learner" I found this video incredibly helpful. Thank You! I'll now go back out to the shed and remake those connections like you showed, so they last 50 years!
your videos are brilliant! So many others just show diagrams or rubbish camera work. Thanks for the help
00:00 - How to connect up sockets
00:42 - Making off my first BS 1363 twin socket outlet
00:48 - Connections in the back of a twin socket outlet
01:13 - Cutting the cables to length for a twin socket outlet
01:48 - How deep are the terminals in the back of a twin socket outlet
03:03 - Terminating the line (live) conductors into the back of a twin socket outlet
03:35 - How to double over the conductors into the back of a socket outlet
05:03 - Terminating the neutral conductors into the back of a twin socket outlet
06:17 - The correct conductor length in the back of a twin socket outlet
06:35 - Terminating the CPC's (earths) conductors into the back of a twin socket outlet
08:52 - Putting the twin socket front onto the socket box
09:07 - Top tip when connecting socket outlets
09:52 - Connections in the back of our second twin socket outlet
10:22 - Cutting the cables to length for a twin socket outlet
11:14 - Connecting up a twin BS 1363 socket outlet
13:29 - Summary of learning for second fixing a twin socket outlet
I love these video's. I am what I would class as a competent DIY'er and my electrician allows me to do the horrible cable pulls and preparation and I always follow the 70mm and doubling over as shown here. I also watched the 2 plate method series as I am rewiring this way as I go. Brilliant series.
This will now work, I now know how to wire socket outlets…
Thank you sir..
Excellent "how to" young man!
excuse me young man
Thank you sir for your videos.. they help me alot..much love from Kenya
👍🏻
An excellent tutorial. RSVP, spot on. EDIP, very professional. These letters apply to individuals who have military tutoring skills. Very informative and easy to assimilate.
One comment I'd like to pass to others. This tutorial is done by a tutor teaching his students. No fads, no if's, but's or how evers. If you don't like how he achieves his object, or the information disseminated, DON'T watch. To me (and like minded tutors) this presentation was 1st class. An 'A' grade.
Thanks for taking the time to comment in such detail 👍🏻. Gaz
If you start out right every time you end up right every time.
Once again, what can be so vexing is how easy a true proffessional can make a job look. A great video.
As someone starting out, these videos are very helpful and are a nice refresh
Do you have a Patron or buy me a coffee
Massive thanks glad they are helpful.
I only have the thanks button on TH-cam. Enjoy your learning journey and thanks again Gaz 👍🏻
Wow! This is very informative, thanks for sharing it with us. It worth it...wtc
Once again, thanks for making me feel good about my DIY electrical jobs. Starting with long wires in box, then correct screwdriver, then test termination to guage wire length for socket brand, use tight fitting earth sleeve so doesn't slip and spoil contact in earth terminal.
I do all that as I fix the sloppy work of recommended, registered, reputable professionals. I think I've found a good one and hope he's available for the consumer unit replacement I'd like done before Christmas
Quality and pride in your workmanship. Thank you I respect.
💕👍
About time the industry used "Wago" style connectors on the back of sockets (I know you did a video on this a while ago).
They're hard to pull out though since you have to twist them to get them off. Could be annoying in a tight fit.
MK are now selling double outlets with lever style screw less connectors a la Wago
Thanks. Very easy to understand.
Waw, so clear and excellent instructional video. An enormous thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Super informative. Thank you so much.
Thanks 👍🏻
Great tip on what length to cut to (box + 50-70mm).
Super Informative //Thanks for the video
Thanks
What neat work.
Thanks 👍🏻
Excellent and very informative videos, thanks
Really helping me whilst in at college.. doing my level 2 and currently doing this now! A lot of great tips and tricks in your videos that feels like it’s just that extra sense of insight!
Brandon all the best with your level 2 and a massive thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 👍🏻
Same with me brandon👍🏾
How is it going?
It’s a fantastic training resource wish we’d had it when I was an apprentice, sadly though they barely had telephones let alone the internet 😢 😊
Excellent video, thanks.
Thanks for commenting and watching 👍🏻
Excellent video
Thanks 🦾
Quite nice the Hager outlets are.
Yoda you thanks it is.
Nice tutorial
Appreciate the upload, another awesome demo, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for commenting 🦾👍
Very helpful series of tutorials. You talk about terminal drivers vs the 'electricians screwdriver'. How would you differentiate them? What blade sizes?
Great tutorial and very good demonstration! Thanks for your tutorial!
Thanks for commenting and watching 👍
Hi what course do I need to install fans in kitchen and bathrooms ???
C&G 2365, look into part p electrical courses.
Brilliant content.
Thanks for the support 👍🏻
Excellent tutorial, Thank you. I recently bought sockets from screwfix and its a few years since i carried out a rewire. I design and make things for a living and could not believe what I was seeing. when the powers at be spout Regs and health and saftey at every breath and then I come across the very points that you made about shallow terminals, different depth terminals on the same socket and having two seperate cpc connectors, I can now call total bullshit this whole set up.
First of all make all suppliers of electrical sockets conform to one standard so that all the sockets have their terminals in the same place and the same depth also have one cpc connector joined internaly (dont understand why you are connecting them seperatley but stand to be corrected if you have a valid reason ie how many people have been killed because both cpcs have been connected to one connector).
Next one of the big companys like Milwaukee need to make a tool that cuts evrything in one go and folds the cable ends automatically including the correct length of the outer cable so that its a one press button operation in about 5 seconds. An electricians job is hard work and if all this was applied it would cut down the termination side of the job by 2/3rds not to mention ware and tear on the electricians hands(which matters when you are the wrong side of 50 and you still have to work until you are 67}.
Lastly, this whole system needs to be dumped and changed to the wago system and be done with this.
All electrician need to get together and only buy one type of socket, that would force the manufacturers of the crap sockets to change or go out of business.
We need more People in charge that have a technical background not academics/ lawyers/ economist, preferably non university graduates.
We need more Elon Musks(people that can think for themselves and are not sheep).
Ok Rant over, going back to finish the termination now(oh joy).
You right the amount of wrong connector terminal some appliance light fitting don't mach the uk irish wire ring standard
And who come with the idea for lsf cable in domestic forget how to work
Cable more rigid very hard to strip bulkier and personally I prefer when a smke smell from cable
Many call out when people smell something is wrong
Elon Musk wouldn't be able to wire a socket. Safety is woke nonsense to him. Stick to educated experts not blood diamond man-babies.
Thanks grate production
Thanks 👍🏻
Good video 👍
Thanks 👍
Been an electrician for 26 years and I’ve never used a knife like that to remove insulation. Snips or actual wire strippers. Do everything else the same. Double back connections, leave a good length on conductors.
Thanks for commenting and your feedback 🦾. Gaz
Mk cutters
I’ve been an electrician for 40 years and I always use a knife to skin cables.
I use my teeth😬
like Gaz says its to teach learners the basic hand to eye coordination skills first which is fair enough.
Great simple tuition and someone who knows his screwdrivers 😀 a driver for lighting and then larger one for the sockets , I bet you don’t brake your drivers , 👍
Great vid, I’m not an election but with years of diy I would always
Double over, less chance of coming out 👍
Thanks for sharing it with us
Is the difference between those two screwdrivers explained somewhere? From the couple seconds they were in focus they looked roughly the same size of slotted, just one being VDE and the other not.
Doubling over the cable, what do you do when there are three cables coming in rather than two (eg spur off ring)? Keep them all straight? Usually three doubled over will not fit in.
Bit of common sense comes in handy.😎👍🏻
You only need to double over the conductors when there is only one going to each terminal, on a radeal or a ring main there's will always be two conductors to each of the terminals so no need for boubleling over, the only reason for it is so as the terminal screw has somthing to bite on to
Same here, single cables get doubled, 2 or 3 don't get doubled ... the only exception would be for cpc especially when there is 2 ports on the outlet.
My only issue with doubled solid conductors is that it work hardens the copper and of its then straightened back out there is a high probability it will break so as a rule I never try to fold it back over, cut, strip and create a new doubled end. This also has its own problems when the cables are short to start.
I personally think a screw in terminal is best for outlets, I know there are "wago" style outlets available but I find them to be "chunky" in depth foe example 2 legs of a rung and a spur in a 25mm recessed box, client wants to change for a USB outlet ..... leaves almost no space between the rear of the socket and the back box .... the only change I'd like to see is swapping the traditional screw to the clamping arrangement that is common on MCB, RCDs, Main switch etc. Would allow more room at each port, even clamping and would negate the need to double the ends over.
Putting wago connections on outlets is great for ease in connecting but on the flip side most of the faults, loose connections, spur on spur on spur from am excited DIY'er is rampant now and will get worse due to the few that are put off trying now will go the opposite way and add to the DIY "It was like it originally" -- "I always use an electrician" - "my mates a spark" and so on.... 🤣 thoes who know how to wire a plug so they can wire a socket.....its only 3 wires and they are colour coded 🤣
Thanks a lot Sir.
Thanks for watching
Brill. Very clear. Thanks for posting! 👍
Always remember me team work.
Really interesting and useful (sad I know...) - many thanks. I haven't seen the doubling over of the wire since my Father used to wire things (and he wasn't an electrician). I'll start doing that as well. The 50mm plus length of the box is a useful guide.
Educative to me nice work.
Good workmanship - crap system. I'm in Australia, just gone 50 years as an electrician and that cable/methods takes me back to the 70s.
Thanks for the message 🤦🏻♂️ maybe 😄👍
Mick K, purely out of curiosity, would be interested to see the difference if you have a link?
What is the maximum load I understand a power socket is 13 A. Would a double socket 13 A on each side
Do the terminals ever need to be torqued down?
Great question 👍🏻
Only ask because I recently invested in a torque screwdriver but can't seem to find any specification printed on any equipment.
There is a document listing the torque for plugs and sockets in BS 1363-1:2016 13 A plugs, socket-outlets, adaptors and connection units. Specification for rewirable and non-rewirable 13 A fused plugs
fantastic, thank you
Is there not a further earth cable to connect to the box?
I have heard sparks say that the reason for doubling over the ends of conductors is to give double the CSA at the point of termination and to fill the terminal up.
I can see the point about filling the terminal but I was taught that the main reason for doubling over is so that the screw clamps down onto the conductors more firmly. Your thoughts Gaz🤔
I have to say: Crabtree, instincts socket outlets have clamps instead of screws and IMO are the best on the market. No doubling over required. They're superb 👍
Instinct Range From Crabtree - Electrical Accessories Designed to Make Life Easier for Electricians th-cam.com/video/oRJKiImSpJE/w-d-xo.html
I like the instinct range. The larger the conductors (doubling over) the greater the area for the screw to hit 🦾. Thanks for commenting. Gaz
I personally despise the obsession with doubling over. It's not a regulation, and is in breach of manufacturer instructions in 99% of cases. Not following manufacturer instructions can open hell later on if things go wrong.
@@arcadia1701e I agree 👍 it's not something I like either and you're absolutely right about following manufacturers instructions, but I can see how the limited surface area of a screw head is going to make a satisfactory connection doesn't exactly instil confidence. That is why I mentioned the Crabtree clamped terminals.
Although screws may be a long established form of connection, I feel it's time to move on😁👍
@@kendoknackersackee if it doesn't "instill confidence" why do you walk away from it then?
@@mark86sprk5 That's why you double over, because it gives the feeling of a solid connection. Anyway, I meant in general, not me personally.
A single screw terminal is overdue an update and improvement though, wouldn't you agree?
What is the difference between the 2 screwdrivers?
How do you do 4mm cable? As doubling that would be to large.
Great video well explained. What is the difference in the 2 screwdrivers you mentioned at the start of the video?
Thanks for commenting - the size of the blade on the screwdriver head the terminal one is to small to get the connections tight 🦾. Gaz
3mm _3.5mm for light switch terminal
4.5mm _ 5mm for socket terminals
the only time i would double over conductors is when there is only one in the terminal. what if your are taking a spur from the socket, you wouldnt get three doubled over conductors in
Me too.
@@truthseeker7794 111
Always double them if it’s a part of the ring with no spur.
I have seen them twisted together found when testing ring and cable broken off.
Depends on make they mostly have clamp type terminal I only double the earth wires.
If you have a round screw terminal (as opposed to a cage clamp) you’ll want enough copper in them. Whether that requires doubling over or not will depend on the wire size, number of wires, and size of terminal.
Excellent instructional video, quick question, why are the wires doubled back instead of just being fitted in? Thanks
Fill the hole 😉. 🦾
Would you still go 70mm past the edge, if the cable entered via the top or bottom of the pattress?
50 to 70mm 🦾
I got a 2 gang power socket in the kitchen plasterboard , which is convention straight from top including twin cables (as per your video). If I wanna extend 3/4 power sockets from that point, shall I connect/extend both the twin cables to the next power socket ?? ?🤔
Thank you
No problem 👍
Thank you 🙏
When doubling over the conductor, if you use the pliers at 90° the teeth of the pliers will prevent the conductor from slipping therefore making the job faster and neater. Plus the less work through the bend will reduce metal fatigue.
Also, if you put the CPC sleeve all the way on and then pull back off by the amount that you want exposed and then cut it, then it will be fast and perfect every time.
Personally I utilise the earth terminals with 1 terminal used for both earths on the Twin and the other terminal used to earth a metal back box.
At least you earth the back box. Wont be a long wait for the rest to say you don't need to, the screws do it🙄
@@mark86sprk5 You do like to "write" provocatively 😂😂😂.
You'll probably get an avalanche of responses coming up with myriad reasons for and against.
I used to take the view that one day I might be standing in the dock having to justify my reasons for doing a job "just so".
Spending a few moments earthing a box might, rpt might, be your "get out of jail" card. Literally.
Most of us will have seen this debate on other vlogs and will have formed an opinion one way or another.
This debate is perhaps going to be a reprise of those.
@@t1n4444 i don't mean to provoke but I do resent negligence. Why do anything less than to maintain the integrity of a connection to the highest standard. Any argument to the contrary is not good enough when distributing electricity.
Teacher, some people use 1N 1L 1ground for doublesocket
Well done, you did amazing 🤩
why do you have to double over terminations?
Please, where can I find and buy 110V
amp twin socket and 110V 15 amp single socket. Thank you.
Please i want to ask you this question; what's the right order in which you should arrange your circuit breaker in your consumer unit. should it be from the lowest breaker to the highest or highest breaker to the lowest and why... Thanks
Hi, great video!
Q: Why do you need to add CPC sleeving, if it was needed why does it not come as standard? Also, if the CPC size is 1.5m, would you get the same size sleeving, or 0.5 bigger; so in this example 2m.
Thank-you!
changed one of my sockets at home.... one of my blue wires had current on it... I know you are supposed to switch of power supply when you work with electricity all right .... is that normal?
What mm cable are you using? Is it best practice to use 2.5mm or 4mm? Also should you always use the ring to connect multiple sockets? or can you stop at the last socket?
Great thanks
Thanks! Excellent video. I’ve rewired a socket and the wires were super stiff. Think they must be 20-30 yrs+ old. Made it difficult to get back in the box. Any tips to make life easier?
CPC connection?
Learning the trade and i didn't realise that there was a difference in screwdrivers...? Can anyone tell me, does it really make a difference as to what screwdriver you use...?! Cheers, great video..!
Match the tip size to the screw head - insulated - find a brand u like. Thanks for watching and commenting. Gaz
How do I never see the T& E cables with the sleeved CPC surely every T&E cable should be sleeved and do away with the bare CPC T & E NOW just like the AC RCD
Is that single strand 2.5mm cable?
Here in Kenya nowadays, rarely will you find a single strand conductor of more than 1.5mm.
For 2.5mm and above we have stranded cables only
I'd like to see how much you damaged the copper conductor when you attacked it with a knife! There is a potential for it to snap when you push it back in the box!
I agree. I always got a "bollocking" for even scratching the copper. Ringing it with a knife with "firm pressure" seems sure to mark it a bit.
Strippers are always the best.
For years when working on my own buildings I have twisted the cable ends together when connecting to the socket, is this ok? I was taught that method many years ago by an electrician mate I used to help out on jobs
If you had a choice, would you have your socket cables horizontal or vertical?
Looking good Gary :o)
Can i sign up for an electrical course with you guys please?
Thanks for the support 👍🏻
Nice one gazza. Big help. Subscribed 👍 do you have a video changing light fixtures at all?
Thanks for the support - this may help I also have wiring diagrams that are worth taking a look at
New House Wiring Changing Lights - Lighting Circuit Using the 2 Plate Method or 3 Plate Method? th-cam.com/video/RO0Zejib7BM/w-d-xo.html
You are a star m8
Thanks for creating these videos. Quick question why don’t you use a torque setting on these termination? But within in a DB you do.
Terminals in a dB have torque settings that are provided by the manufacturer so to comply with regs these must be followed. There are no such instructions on socket terminals. If there were then you would have to use torque driver
@@reeceoverton1421 There is a torque setting guide in BS 1363-1:2016 13 A plugs, socket-outlets, adaptors and connection units. Specification for rewirable and non-rewirable 13 A fused plugs. But I'm not sure if that is a must per the regs.
Please I don't get what said about the 15-17mm
50 to 70 mm past the box 🦾👍
@@GSHElectrical ooooh! I see. Thanks for your response
When i was starting out as an electrician there was this company once which the boss told me off for putting one cpc in each earth terminal on a double gang socket, he said you don't do that which i was confused about why not?
Thanks for adding your experiences 👍
When did the "live" wire get renamed to "line" wire?
Before that it was the phase - both line and neutral are live conductors. Example if the line has 10 amps in it the neutral also has 10 amps hence both live conductor 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical I get what you're saying but I've just checked some socket wiring instructions online from Schneider and BG and they all call the cables live and earth. No reference to line. To me, line implies a low voltage signal wire carrying data (analogue or digital). You don't want to get that mixed up with a 240V live wire!
Hi there, i had an issue with my consumer unit whilst replacing a double socket. I had replaced an old plastic double socket with a Wandsworth brass double socket.
Before doing any work I turned off the relevant consumer unit switch and tested the sockets to ensure no power was running through them.
I started with adding the earths to both the socket & back box. During this time strangely the whole consumer unit tripped when the back box got connected to the rear of the socket? AND the same thing happened when I connected the Neutral?
I tested the socket and cables when the consumer unit tripped in both instances and found no current running through them?
Does anyone know why the consumer unit tripped when I have disabled the circuit that I’m working on?
I can only think of some king of static feedback from the brass cover plate?
Thanks in advance for any help with this 🙏🏽
RCD’s will usually trip if you touch earth and neutral. There is usually enough floating voltage on the neutral to cause this ( you only need 30ma of current flow. Pain in the arse if you are working in the loft as the lights go out.😂😂
@@johnwarwick4105 Thanks and yes 😅
Are you sure you didn't screw one or more of the socket terminal screws in and nipped i to a cable. Change the old socket back and see if that makes any difference. Visually inpect all of the cables in the back box. Either that or you have more then 30mA earth leakage.
@@rayc1503 thanks, it only happens when the cpc touches the neutral. It occurs when I pull the cables out of the back box for example.
Instead of bending wire over, how about using alloy ferrules that can be pushed over and bite onto the wire end to allow the terminal to grip better?
Strange that you are using a knife to strip wire first thing I learned in college was put a nick in the wire it will break. That's why t stripers are the way to go in the USA. And they are multiple function. I know it's a little different wire style but it all works the same way. By the way my little girl was born in oxford 32 years ago I'm. Not a stranger to the way things work over there wonderful country You have.
They’re a college - using a stripper isn’t a skill you need to be taught, but stripping with a knife without nicking the wire, that’s hard. So they’re deliberately teaching the hardest methods, because you never know for sure whether you’ll have the fancy tools.
A demonstration on wiring up a single socket would be good rather than the easy peasy double always seen in videos.🙂. Especially the favourite part; cramming all those wires into the back-box. 😵💫
Did you tan a can of master before this video
You missed the bit where you have to dig your cables out of the wall first after the plasterers skimmed over the box! Following that I would strip the sheath to the length of a standard English carrot leaving the inner insulation to be stripped using my teeth because I'm old school! 👴🏫🤐
Just wondering why you double over when you have 2 x 2.5mm2 6242y going into a socket?
I believe the terminals are designed to accept them in singles, unless just 1 x 2.5mm2 present or 2 x 1.5mm2 need connecting.
Connecting the earths... I was told that splitting the cpc’s into the separate terminals provides a clean earth for IT equipment, so maybe you could clarify?
nice ❤❤❤
Why is the Wiha looking VDE screwdriver not suitable for sockets and only lighting circuits please?
Thanks for commenting - the size of the blade on the screwdriver head the terminal one is to small to get the connections tight 🦾. Gaz
@@GSHElectrical Thank you that makes sense!
Hi A bit off topic, but why have a busbar and the neutral wires not directly connected into each circuit breaker.? An explanation would be appreciated.
Say you go into the breaker with the neutral, where would it then go after that? The answer is back to the substation at the end of your road.
It's the same reason you have an earth busbar, to link all the wires together so that 1 thicker cable can run off somewhere else. Think of it like your cars exhaust manifold. You don't have an exhaust for each cylinder, instead they are grouped together and have 1 larger exhaust pipe going to the rear).
MCB's don't require a neutral as they just detect overcurrent. RCD/RCBO's are residual current detectors. A really simple way of explaining this (there's more too this so please don't treat this as gospel) "3.11 amps has gone out through the live, 3.11 amps has come back through the neutral (for example)" Obviously if you only get a current 30mA lower than that it's going to earth somehow.
@@zXLuke4efcXz Thank you for taking the time to answer my question.
Thanks
Very well explained...Gaz .
2 Questions...
In video , you mentioned ..( screwdrivers )
Is there any difference between a ", electricians screwdriver & a normal vde (as seen in yr video. ?
and video Gaz preferred a separate CPC /earth terminal in a double socket .
Is there any reason ...(safety or not really ) ?
Thanks any one. 👍💪😁
No to keep things simple for my learners I call it an electricians screwdriver rather than a number 1, 2, 3 etc. We talk about sockets for IT equipment in the classroom so this links to the CPC being in different terminals 👍.
Old electric here normal in the old days mentioned that they didn't have plastic sleeving on the screwdriver to protect your fingers OK. So the normal one was not to be used as for electric work.
Hope this helps as he didn't really tell you that.