Melting aluminum dross is about as fun as melting aluminum cans… It took me about 10 hours and 3 tanks of propane but I got through it. I hope you all enjoy watching this one as much as I did making it! Oh, and if the 3D printed death figures don’t make sense, check out my massive can meltdown 8,000+ can melt and it will 😉 There’s a link to it at the end. I hope you enjoy this one and I’ll see all you awesome people next time 👍
I did indeed enjoy it. Thank you very much for all the effort. Although I think I enjoyed watching way more than you did making, that had to be tedious. And could tell you were sweating with the drops hitting the concrete.
It would be an interesting experiment to run that leftover dross through a crusher and then try to separate out a metal concentrate on a shaker table. That would strip out most of the dirt and oxides and leave you one or two crucibles full of cons to melt a third time.
I was going to suggest the same, albeit, before doing the first melt of the slag. What we need is some sort of forge with holes in the bottom so you can heat up the slag and just let the aluminum drip down out of it.
@@seanfoltz7645 You'll need flux to be well mixed with the dross, your method will allow to skip the shaker table sorting at the cost of more material to soak up the heat and thus more gas used to melt. tl;dr it's better to use a rockbutcher's method than yours in all circumstances except for simplicity.
Ive been thinking of maybe reclaiming the dross with electrolysis. Its aluminum oxide? Maybe we can make aluminium hydroxide? Then its easier to rip the oxygen off.
2:11 while it may be a mix of sodium chloride and potassium chloride, what you want is a perfect mixture that gives you a eutectic when you melt them together, which should be molar 50:50. Make little pucks from the molten salt, in two-bite brownie trays. When using a puck, it needs to melt with your dross to drive off any residual water. It acts as a flux to help separate aluminum from the oxides. The melting point of each salt is higher than aluminum, so we use the eutectic salt instead.
This. Some of the cover fluxes are binary eutectics, but I use a NaCl/KCl/CaF2 eutectic. The ratios are roughly equimolar NaCl/KCl, then about 5% by mass CaF2. If sourcing the fluorspar from solid crystals instead of powder, it will take extra time to dissolve into the molten salt. The melting point should be around 660C IIRC, so close to working temperatures for casting. In either case, the challenege in getting the ratios right is starting with dry salts. I didn't think to cast the flux into pellets or cakes. I just reground it.
I have to admit, I never thought you would get that much aluminuim out of that !! I am happy to see you did though !! The way you had the ingots laid out looked exactly like Tetris lol Another great video, thanks for sharing !!
I like watching you get almost all of the aluminum out. You sure made a lot of aluminum squares. That will come in handy for all of your upcoming melts! And don't worry, muscle weighs more than fat. 😀
@@TheGrowingStack Ok. If you REALLY want to. We don't mind tho. We like you just as you are!!! And I bet it was a ton of work. And I bet you had fun too. I bet you always do, working on your hobby. ☺️
I would've never guessed you could get so much metal from the dross. Definitely makes me rethink why I've been hoarding all the cans to melt when I get my forge, instead of just turning them in and using larger scraps to melt, lol
that's something I have always wondered ... why dont refineries store their dross and remelt it as they go along ... eventually they will get every last drop out of it ... and of course with raw minerals sort for all the ores and minerals you can sell ... split them out sure you might be primary aluminium ... but there is a wide range of other metals in the same zone as well ... all worth money ... and since your getting one may as well get em all and increase the profits ... eventually you will end up with basic carbon once you have processed everything out of it possible ... and then you now have a source of safe carbon to sell off as well ...
@@kaboom-zf2bl the problem is energy costs- eventually the cost of melting the dross and adding flux will get to a point that it costs more to do than you could profit. Maybe if we valued efficiency and waste reduction instead of profit we could get it all out.
He's not melting dross to get more metal out of it. You can't re-use dross - It's worthless oxides. Not sure exactly what you guys think is happening here.
If that initial bit of salt is all you added, you might as well not have bothered. The point of the salt is that it provides a liquid phase that will dissolve the powdery aluminium oxides; thus allowing small metal droplets to coalesce rather than staying trapped in non-molten oxides. Not sure about the optimal ratios, but youll be consuming salt in proportion to the amount of oxides you are trying to remove. It seemed to me your initial salted batch also left almost no metal behind, while the yield of later batches went down.
A good tip: use flux to get the most metal out of the dross. Best one to get metal from dross is mixture 1:1 of potassium chloride and sodium chloride (salt). but there are "secret" flux mixtures available which do better and go faster but are more expensive. Using flux saves on the carburant use
Just don’t screw up and order sodium nitrate… (it happened at a commercial aluminium smelter (once)). Straight Sodium Chloride does stop oxygen getting to the molten aluminium…
me, an absolute sicko: ok now do it again with whats left >:) lol but seriously really awesome to see this! looked like so much work, we are all grateful
This one is better than last week and last week was your best ever! You are killing it! Well done!! I get you can't do this every week, but people like big melts. Very cool!
I think you need to use a little cryolite in the flux. sodium aluminum floride. use more flux it will prevent oxidization and help the metal to clump together.
All I can say is WOW!!! That was a bit of recovery. I still think you could get away with moving to waste oil. Restaurant vegetable oil works best, but used automotive oil works too. The process is significantly cheaper and you don't get that Tank backache...lol still working on my Stack, Didn't even think about using Salt as a flux. Look's like that really worked well for you. Lots of work and as long as you're having a good time, that's about all that matters. I know I had fun watching...lol Great Video Bro!!! The stack looks AWESOME!!!!
I truly and thoroughly enjoy your videos...They're amazingly relaxing to watch! Considering how annoying it is to pick up all those lumps of dross by hand, though, have you considered getting an ash shovel? Like one that'd be used with a wood-burning furnace, or fireplace? Some of the older ones have a fairly narrow, long pan, and a good amount of length to the handle that'd make for less bending during a job such as this.
It looks like the first couple scoops of each crucible had barely any aluminum. When you got down to the layer next to the liquid you stared getting aluminum in the scoops with the dross, very similar to a normal scrap melt. You should try separating those last few scoops and either start the next crucible with them or run one or two more crucibles at the end with just those scoops. Basically the trash pile is only the stuff off of the very top that barely has any aluminum.
I have a few questions if you have the time to answer (No worries if not): -How do you get the last of the aluminum out of the melting crucible? -What can aluminum be used for, if hypothetically you wanted to melt the bricks back down and create something? -What is the salt, or what you called the flux, used for? What does it do when added to the melting aluminum? Thanks for your time
I usually scrape the crucible right after my last pour, and any film that may be left, will usually work loose and pull right out like a thin skin that’s left around the crucible. You could make anything out of the bricks later that you wanted to. It could be cast for a tool, or pretty much anything you can dream up. I’ve read, and this was my first time trying that salt, that it is supposed to help collect and gather impurities so they can be scooped away, leaving you with a more clean metal. 👍
Now you can make a bit of cash from the remaining dross after all it's aluminium oxide a superb abrasive and can be used in grit blasting. Brilliant video, many thanks for making it.
certainly difficult to justify the time/effort/resources, but the concept is still cool. one day a hobbyist has to come along and create the monster 55 gallon drum melter foundry (gonna search to see if it's been made already now that I think about it)
When in doubt, add more flux. You still have a lot of aluminum left in there. I would do another melt. Keep plenty of flux on it. Skim off only the very top and keep adding more. Keep the crucible full until time to pour another ingot. Then set aside the last few skims down near the molten Al to return to the crucible after you pour. The idea is to only discard dross with minimal free aluminum in it. Aluminum rich dross goes back in the crucible. Keep feeding it flux. let the good stuff settle out and the ash all rise to the top where you only remove the top, the dry part. Gas gets expensive! If you run a natural gas line back to your foundry and use a natural gas regulator and bigger orifices, you can keep your costs down a bit. But even cheaper is to make a waste oil burner. Save your old engine oil and your old cooking oil and rendered fat. There are a LOT of BTU's in a jug of used oil or grease! Same with engine oil. Rig a chimney to get the exhaust above your head so you don't breathe it. Use forced draft so you get good combustion and little residue. An oil burner is fairly simple to make if you weld. If not, still can be done. Don't get too medieval about buffing your ingots to a high luster. The surface oxides are a protective layer against further oxidation.
I wonder if pulverising the dross before re-melting might help in separating the metal constituent from the non-metal that will then naturally float to the top being lighter in weight? Adding flux is a good idea. The only down-side is that it adds to the dross once it's spent.
I thought about grinding it all up before melting but time got the best of me. I’m curious how that outcome would have resulted in recoverable aluminum though 👍
Salt does work really well it doesn't take much. When we tested with it we settled on ~1/2tsp in a #6 and that was about right. We found using any more was excessive and caused pores to form where the salt had distributed into large globules, even with vigorous stirring. They also bubbled when you put them in water which was interesting but exposed further surface pitting. In the case of aluminum I think the chloride bonds to absorbed hydrogen to liberate it from the melt.
I love the info Gryyphyn! I have melted some small amounts of dross before but nothing like this. I learned a lot and thank you for all the info, I definitely appreciate it! 👍
@@tyttuut @The Tyttuutface Oh, that makes way more sense. I'll have to try it out. We just use non-iodized salt. Works pretty well but I think your recipe may have better chemistry. What quantity do you use? Do you guess or go by volume/weight?
@@gryyphyn8639 I just use a bunch of it, probably a couple tablespoons for a 12kg crucible. I haven't made much of an attempt to figure out how much is actually enough or if using too much is harmful.
I wonder if keeping the wok with the next batch of dross/slag over the top of the burner to keep them warm using the exhaust gasses, would result in a faster/easier melt? The idea I had in my head was a ring that would attach to the lid, and it would be far enough away to not melt from the exhaust port.
wonder if you can pour the second batch of dross auminium mix intoo a cone straight out of the crusible and have the aluminium sitting on the bottom after it cools off like they do with precious metals like the lead silver , from wat i seen they usually scoop out the dross and then add the flux packed in a piece of tin foil and push it to the bottom of the crusible , the bubbling and stuff brings up the last of the dross that still in suspension inside the liquid aluminium , it allso thins (as in makes it more liquid) and purifies the aluminium so that there less inclusions and airbubbles in a cast allso wondering if using a way bigger crusible will yield more aluminium per weight and maibe take less time and propane to re-melt
Very cool ! I suppose the obvious question is, does the reclaimed aluminum equal the cost of the fuel used to melt it down? How about if you factor in the 10 hours of time, at say minimum wage? I'm sure this has been asked a million time before, but this is new to me.
It never does, even in the original can meltdown. The price of gas alone is a multiple of the value of the aluminum bars if sold on the market. So it's only justifiable as a hobby...
What would happen if you did a big melt, using the largest crucible you have, and then poured it, dross and all, into a pyramid mold? Would it work similar to the Cupell method, minus the soaking part? If you got the Pyramid mold hot enough would the dross not float back to the top and then you can remove the pure dross after it cools?
watching the melts and pouring is satisfying to watch, but i've been curious about using molds to make parts that can be put together. Example - could you make molds of LEGO pieces and make metal LEGO from recycled cans? Would they fit with the ABS plastic ones or only with themselves? I've been wanting to make an articulated robot toy out of real metal for a long time and i'm always curious about the melting and molding process to make parts for it
There is quite a bit of shrinkage as aluminum cools, even if not liquid to start. It has a very large coefficient of expansion/contraction. The molded pieces would probably not fit with the plastic parts.
Question... what if you had a rock/stone polishing tumbler? If you threw the dross in that, let it tumble for a while, wouldn't that kick all the slag off and you would just have the aluminum chunk leftover?
No, the aluminum is softer than anything else in the dross - so would be worn to a fine sludge. Much of the dross would also become sludge. It might be possible to sieve/wash off the sludge, dry it, then melt it to obtain a significant increase in recovery - but probably not worth the effort.
I wonder if the dross could be placed in an acid bath to dissolve the aluminum then filter out the unwanted stuff and then precipitate the aluminum back out
Great Video as usual. Fellow metal head here, love the intros. Any luck getting some broken cymbals to melt from your drummer friends? That would be very cool. Anyway, keep making awesome content. I always enjoy your vids. 🤘
Leave the mold on top of the furnace between pours. Not only will it ensure there's no moisture, the ingots will have a cleaner finish. They'll just take a bit longer to go off. I know the finish isn't that important but a smooth ingot with less cooling dip is always nice to look at. Wait until you have enough gold to pour your first gold bar, you'll lose your mind 😁
WOOT, I suggested this on that 8000+ can video ! :D I wonder if a larger crucible would reduce waste material when doing larger batches or if it would be pretty much the same.
My understanding is a bit limited - but as I understand, flux is meant to absorb oxygen during the heating process, to reduce the creation of dross. So far as I'm aware salt can't really do that, while borax can, though I've heard that olive oil or parafrin can help with metals like lead and aluminum. My guess is that you need to add more every time you skim off the top or refill the crucible to make sure the seal remains. Good job on the recovery and I hope you find a method that works well for you.
In my opinion his metal was wayyy to hot and I think that may be part of the cause of so much slag. Not sure what he used for flux either, but the metal is just way too reactive. Alu has a dull cherry under the silver when at temp .. I've never seen it glowing like iron before - Holy hell. He also only has so much metal mixed in because he simply was too vigorous in removing the dross the first time. All this pain is his own fault.
Very cool. I’m still not sure about the difference between dross and slag. I tried reading some articles on it and some of them seemed to has different explanations.
On most things I’ve read, I think of dross as the oxidation and impurities in low temp melting metals like lead, zinc, aluminum, etc that is skimmed off the top while slag is a byproduct from smelting metals from ore, such as in the production of steel. But there’s different definitions and variations so… 🤷♂️
This is from an old timer, been there, did that a lot. I never waste MAPP gas preheating a graphite mold, you already have a huge fire shooting out of the foundry kiln, just set the mold near the vent hole and it will more than warm it to any temperature you desire.
Your video made me curious as how much flux is needed. I looked it up found that 1:1 flux of NaCl/KCl only needs to be about 0.25-0.50% of the total weight. Not nitpicking, just wanted to share.
Not sure what the primary aluminum molecule is in the dross, I assume aluminium oxide. If so you might want to look at reduction reactions for aluminium oxide. I know you can reduce some metal oxides with carbon(known as a carbon reduction reaction), just not sure about aluminum.
I learned a lot about aluminum from Don Drumm many years ago; his shop was 10 miles from where I grew up). I watch Thub (im not a scrapper or have anything to do with scrapping) and find the amount of scrap to be had fascinating. However, I am a media reseller, so it doesn't surprise me on what people through away that is worth $20-100 to over $1000s. Anyhow. Ive wondered for a while if y'all remelt the slag / dross for further recovery. it's "pocket change" but it all adds up.
A great collection brother! I like smelting too. I use wood fire, mostly. I'm experimenting with my rig to make it more efficient. your channel is an inspiration?
It may be a pain with how much time it takes to complete, however even by halfway through the video, the recovery rate of aluminum material is so worth it already!
75 years later, this guy will not only refine his stacks for the 3rd time, but will also refine all his dross to usable metal with little remaining leftover dross
Melting aluminum dross is about as fun as melting aluminum cans… It took me about 10 hours and 3 tanks of propane but I got through it. I hope you all enjoy watching this one as much as I did making it! Oh, and if the 3D printed death figures don’t make sense, check out my massive can meltdown 8,000+ can melt and it will 😉 There’s a link to it at the end. I hope you enjoy this one and I’ll see all you awesome people next time 👍
I did indeed enjoy it. Thank you very much for all the effort.
Although I think I enjoyed watching way more than you did making, that had to be tedious. And could tell you were sweating with the drops hitting the concrete.
Wow! This is my new favorite smelting channel! Best I've found. Can't wait to see what you make with all of that!
You should get Lego like casting molds so your bars interlock when they stack
Would it not be cheaper to use induction to melt it?
@@blakethefoxxo5162 how would that work?
5 sides get formed, but how to get the last side formed?
Closing the mold up with another plate or something?
It would be an interesting experiment to run that leftover dross through a crusher and then try to separate out a metal concentrate on a shaker table. That would strip out most of the dirt and oxides and leave you one or two crucibles full of cons to melt a third time.
I was going to suggest the same, albeit, before doing the first melt of the slag.
What we need is some sort of forge with holes in the bottom so you can heat up the slag and just let the aluminum drip down out of it.
@@seanfoltz7645 You'll need flux to be well mixed with the dross, your method will allow to skip the shaker table sorting at the cost of more material to soak up the heat and thus more gas used to melt.
tl;dr it's better to use a rockbutcher's method than yours in all circumstances except for simplicity.
🤔🤔🤔🤓
Search Wikipedia for “aluminum dross”.
Ive been thinking of maybe reclaiming the dross with electrolysis. Its aluminum oxide? Maybe we can make aluminium hydroxide? Then its easier to rip the oxygen off.
2:11 while it may be a mix of sodium chloride and potassium chloride, what you want is a perfect mixture that gives you a eutectic when you melt them together, which should be molar 50:50. Make little pucks from the molten salt, in two-bite brownie trays. When using a puck, it needs to melt with your dross to drive off any residual water. It acts as a flux to help separate aluminum from the oxides. The melting point of each salt is higher than aluminum, so we use the eutectic salt instead.
This. Some of the cover fluxes are binary eutectics, but I use a NaCl/KCl/CaF2 eutectic. The ratios are roughly equimolar NaCl/KCl, then about 5% by mass CaF2. If sourcing the fluorspar from solid crystals instead of powder, it will take extra time to dissolve into the molten salt. The melting point should be around 660C IIRC, so close to working temperatures for casting.
In either case, the challenege in getting the ratios right is starting with dry salts.
I didn't think to cast the flux into pellets or cakes. I just reground it.
Man, that shelf at the end holding on for dear life lol.😂
I have to admit, I never thought you would get that much aluminuim out of that !! I am happy to see you did though !! The way you had the ingots laid out looked exactly like Tetris lol Another great video, thanks for sharing !!
Thank you Lisa! So good to hear from you. I hope you’re doing well and I need to message you and catch up soon! Love ya! 🙂
I like watching you get almost all of the aluminum out. You sure made a lot of aluminum squares. That will come in handy for all of your upcoming melts! And don't worry, muscle weighs more than fat. 😀
Thank you as always Tracy! It was a lot of aluminum to get through. And I hope you’re right, but I need to get my
pre-TheGrowingStack figure back 😃😉
@@TheGrowingStack Ok. If you REALLY want to. We don't mind tho. We like you just as you are!!!
And I bet it was a ton of work. And I bet you had fun too. I bet you always do, working on your hobby. ☺️
Been watching BigstackD for years, good to see another channel with the same stuff, can never get too much!!
That middle shelf makes me nervous, that’s a lot of weight and that shelf is bowing. Great video!
I would've never guessed you could get so much metal from the dross.
Definitely makes me rethink why I've been hoarding all the cans to melt when I get my forge, instead of just turning them in and using larger scraps to melt, lol
that's something I have always wondered ... why dont refineries store their dross and remelt it as they go along ... eventually they will get every last drop out of it ... and of course with raw minerals sort for all the ores and minerals you can sell ... split them out sure you might be primary aluminium ... but there is a wide range of other metals in the same zone as well ... all worth money ... and since your getting one may as well get em all and increase the profits ... eventually you will end up with basic carbon once you have processed everything out of it possible ... and then you now have a source of safe carbon to sell off as well ...
@@kaboom-zf2bl they probably pass them through a ball mill and let it settle
@@kaboom-zf2bl the problem is energy costs- eventually the cost of melting the dross and adding flux will get to a point that it costs more to do than you could profit. Maybe if we valued efficiency and waste reduction instead of profit we could get it all out.
He's not melting dross to get more metal out of it. You can't re-use dross - It's worthless oxides. Not sure exactly what you guys think is happening here.
@@bridgetshepherd5202 I'm sure we will one day my friend. 😊🌎✨
If that initial bit of salt is all you added, you might as well not have bothered. The point of the salt is that it provides a liquid phase that will dissolve the powdery aluminium oxides; thus allowing small metal droplets to coalesce rather than staying trapped in non-molten oxides. Not sure about the optimal ratios, but youll be consuming salt in proportion to the amount of oxides you are trying to remove. It seemed to me your initial salted batch also left almost no metal behind, while the yield of later batches went down.
Look at how much metal is being reused/recycled by just one guy’s hobby. Excellent
Great video as always.
I love how you slap Death away from your mold. It's hilarious.
A good tip: use flux to get the most metal out of the dross. Best one to get metal from dross is mixture 1:1 of potassium chloride and sodium chloride (salt). but there are "secret" flux mixtures available which do better and go faster but are more expensive. Using flux saves on the carburant use
2:06
The problem is, unless you buy the flux by the ton, it would probably cost more than the additional aluminum recovered.
@@buggsy5 indeed. I'm wrong for aluminum as I know this for gold. But nevertheless, don't forget the ton of fun you'll have :-)
Just don’t screw up and order sodium nitrate… (it happened at a commercial aluminium smelter (once)).
Straight Sodium Chloride does stop oxygen getting to the molten aluminium…
This was a fun watch and honestly kudos to you for persevering, I would have bailed very early on!
Is it weird that my fave part of melt vids is watching the dross get scooped out ? This is an awesome video!
Not at all, someone else told me that was their favorite part on another video when I didn’t film myself scooping it out and disappointed them 🙂
me, an absolute sicko: ok now do it again with whats left >:)
lol but seriously really awesome to see this! looked like so much work, we are all grateful
Need nobody say otherwise
This one is better than last week and last week was your best ever! You are killing it! Well done!! I get you can't do this every week, but people like big melts. Very cool!
DC...The Official shoes of the backyard foundry. Love your videos.
You weren’t kidding about a lot of recoverable metals in the dross! Good video!
Those ingots sliding out of the cast cleanly are so satisfying
Love your determination, thanks for taking us along 👍🏼
You are real pro. Just starting out myself at almost 58 learned a great deal from you. I like the way you operate thank you.
him: “someone needs to go on a diet!”
also him: *lifts 83lbs like it’s air*
you can be strong and fat at the same time
Butterbean: I took that personally.
Diet and exercise are two different things i suppose
@@levistoner lol :)))
Finally someone's using the correct terminology for it, not slag.
I am amazed how much AL you got from the slag. That salt trick really worked.
That’s unbelievable how much you can get out of all that. Impressive melt, and the salt added to your fire.
Have you ever made Jenga blocks out of aluminum?
I think it might be time to get a bigger tier foundry, something more propane efficient and can melt more at once. Maybe some bigger moulds too
I think you need to use a little cryolite in the flux. sodium aluminum floride. use more flux it will prevent oxidization and help the metal to clump together.
Thanks Reginald! I’ll check it out for sure 👍
@@TheGrowingStack it's the flux used for starting an aluminum electrolytic bath. Can dissolve the oxides when hot enough. Fluorides are nasty stuff.
All I can say is WOW!!! That was a bit of recovery.
I still think you could get away with moving to waste oil. Restaurant vegetable oil works best, but used automotive oil works too. The process is significantly cheaper and you don't get that Tank backache...lol still working on my Stack, Didn't even think about using Salt as a flux. Look's like that really worked well for you.
Lots of work and as long as you're having a good time, that's about all that matters. I know I had fun watching...lol
Great Video Bro!!! The stack looks AWESOME!!!!
Thank you Don L!! I’m going to look into waste oil, I want to do some research on what setup is involved. I love your feedback! 👍👊
I truly and thoroughly enjoy your videos...They're amazingly relaxing to watch! Considering how annoying it is to pick up all those lumps of dross by hand, though, have you considered getting an ash shovel? Like one that'd be used with a wood-burning furnace, or fireplace? Some of the older ones have a fairly narrow, long pan, and a good amount of length to the handle that'd make for less bending during a job such as this.
Got any friends who do amature masonry? They would probably love all that fly ash you produced.
It looks like the first couple scoops of each crucible had barely any aluminum. When you got down to the layer next to the liquid you stared getting aluminum in the scoops with the dross, very similar to a normal scrap melt. You should try separating those last few scoops and either start the next crucible with them or run one or two more crucibles at the end with just those scoops. Basically the trash pile is only the stuff off of the very top that barely has any aluminum.
Great video! Love the color changing death cameo lol
Thanks brother!!!!!
I have a few questions if you have the time to answer (No worries if not):
-How do you get the last of the aluminum out of the melting crucible?
-What can aluminum be used for, if hypothetically you wanted to melt the bricks back down and create something?
-What is the salt, or what you called the flux, used for? What does it do when added to the melting aluminum?
Thanks for your time
I usually scrape the crucible right after my last pour, and any film that may be left, will usually work loose and pull right out like a thin skin that’s left around the crucible.
You could make anything out of the bricks later that you wanted to. It could be cast for a tool, or pretty much anything you can dream up.
I’ve read, and this was my first time trying that salt, that it is supposed to help collect and gather impurities so they can be scooped away, leaving you with a more clean metal. 👍
Now you can make a bit of cash from the remaining dross after all it's aluminium oxide a superb abrasive and can be used in grit blasting.
Brilliant video, many thanks for making it.
certainly difficult to justify the time/effort/resources, but the concept is still cool.
one day a hobbyist has to come along and create the monster 55 gallon drum melter foundry (gonna search to see if it's been made already now that I think about it)
As far as I can do math and google.
The propane to aluminum alone is a loss, if you add time that's just a huge deficit.
@@gzer0o783 yea. This aluminum is only at about $1 per pound. He only has $16 of value for all that work and propane used in this video.
When in doubt, add more flux.
You still have a lot of aluminum left in there. I would do another melt. Keep plenty of flux on it. Skim off only the very top and keep adding more. Keep the crucible full until time to pour another ingot. Then set aside the last few skims down near the molten Al to return to the crucible after you pour. The idea is to only discard dross with minimal free aluminum in it. Aluminum rich dross goes back in the crucible. Keep feeding it flux. let the good stuff settle out and the ash all rise to the top where you only remove the top, the dry part.
Gas gets expensive! If you run a natural gas line back to your foundry and use a natural gas regulator and bigger orifices, you can keep your costs down a bit. But even cheaper is to make a waste oil burner. Save your old engine oil and your old cooking oil and rendered fat. There are a LOT of BTU's in a jug of used oil or grease! Same with engine oil. Rig a chimney to get the exhaust above your head so you don't breathe it. Use forced draft so you get good combustion and little residue. An oil burner is fairly simple to make if you weld. If not, still can be done.
Don't get too medieval about buffing your ingots to a high luster. The surface oxides are a protective layer against further oxidation.
Good use of the oil filter pliers there
Where so I find the Pour Stick and the Thermal resistant gloves. My good sir
I wonder if pulverising the dross before re-melting might help in separating the metal constituent from the non-metal that will then naturally float to the top being lighter in weight? Adding flux is a good idea. The only down-side is that it adds to the dross once it's spent.
I thought about grinding it all up before melting but time got the best of me. I’m curious how that outcome would have resulted in recoverable aluminum though 👍
Salt does work really well it doesn't take much. When we tested with it we settled on ~1/2tsp in a #6 and that was about right. We found using any more was excessive and caused pores to form where the salt had distributed into large globules, even with vigorous stirring. They also bubbled when you put them in water which was interesting but exposed further surface pitting. In the case of aluminum I think the chloride bonds to absorbed hydrogen to liberate it from the melt.
I love the info Gryyphyn! I have melted some small amounts of dross before but nothing like this. I learned a lot and thank you for all the info, I definitely appreciate it! 👍
I use 50/50 kosher salt and sodium-free salt substitute (potassium chloride).
@@tyttuut exactly, that’s basically the eutectic melting temp ratio, so it’s liquid at lower temperatures!
@@tyttuut @The Tyttuutface Oh, that makes way more sense. I'll have to try it out. We just use non-iodized salt. Works pretty well but I think your recipe may have better chemistry. What quantity do you use? Do you guess or go by volume/weight?
@@gryyphyn8639 I just use a bunch of it, probably a couple tablespoons for a 12kg crucible. I haven't made much of an attempt to figure out how much is actually enough or if using too much is harmful.
Hi, thanks for sharing. ¿Salt as flux? does not generate toxic gases?
12:07
You sure the shelf can hold that?
I have to say gold is expensive + your videos with the liquid aluminum is so satisfying to watch as it goes from molten aluminum to a dry ingot😊
A lot more came out of the dross than I would have guessed.
I'm amazed how much you got from what looked like junk.
I wonder if you could pulverise that dross and then use water to seperate out a portion of the non-aluminum
can the left over from this still be used for anything? what do you even do with that now?
I wonder if keeping the wok with the next batch of dross/slag over the top of the burner to keep them warm using the exhaust gasses, would result in a faster/easier melt? The idea I had in my head was a ring that would attach to the lid, and it would be far enough away to not melt from the exhaust port.
Not to discredit the first video, but the most satisfying part about the first video is that this video exists.
wonder if you can pour the second batch of dross auminium mix intoo a cone straight out of the crusible and have the aluminium sitting on the bottom after it cools off like they do with precious metals like the lead silver , from wat i seen they usually scoop out the dross and then add the flux packed in a piece of tin foil and push it to the bottom of the crusible , the bubbling and stuff brings up the last of the dross that still in suspension inside the liquid aluminium , it allso thins (as in makes it more liquid) and purifies the aluminium so that there less inclusions and airbubbles in a cast
allso wondering if using a way bigger crusible will yield more aluminium per weight and maibe take less time and propane to re-melt
Can you post a how to video I am planning on purchasing one of these and want to know how to get started
Very cool !
I suppose the obvious question is, does the reclaimed aluminum equal the cost of the fuel used to melt it down?
How about if you factor in the 10 hours of time, at say minimum wage?
I'm sure this has been asked a million time before, but this is new to me.
It never does, even in the original can meltdown. The price of gas alone is a multiple of the value of the aluminum bars if sold on the market. So it's only justifiable as a hobby...
Aluminum pavers looks like it would be cool as hell
Watching you is like fishing it's very relaxing. Thank you.❤🎉
Can you tell me what size and brand your crucible and those round tongs are. I haven't seen anything like that. Thanks
I got the crucibles from PMC Supplies. They are ProCast #6. The tongs I made with some flat steel 👍
What would happen if you did a big melt, using the largest crucible you have, and then poured it, dross and all, into a pyramid mold? Would it work similar to the Cupell method, minus the soaking part? If you got the Pyramid mold hot enough would the dross not float back to the top and then you can remove the pure dross after it cools?
New subscriber here. Great video here sir. The video where you melted the 1000+ cans was also great.
a nice recovery from all that dross looks better on the shelf than in the garbage can
watching the melts and pouring is satisfying to watch, but i've been curious about using molds to make parts that can be put together.
Example - could you make molds of LEGO pieces and make metal LEGO from recycled cans? Would they fit with the ABS plastic ones or only with themselves?
I've been wanting to make an articulated robot toy out of real metal for a long time and i'm always curious about the melting and molding process to make parts for it
There is quite a bit of shrinkage as aluminum cools, even if not liquid to start. It has a very large coefficient of expansion/contraction.
The molded pieces would probably not fit with the plastic parts.
Question... what if you had a rock/stone polishing tumbler? If you threw the dross in that, let it tumble for a while, wouldn't that kick all the slag off and you would just have the aluminum chunk leftover?
No. The two are somewhat combined in a matrix. It's not just flaky hunks of oxide around a chunk of pure metal.
No, the aluminum is softer than anything else in the dross - so would be worn to a fine sludge. Much of the dross would also become sludge. It might be possible to sieve/wash off the sludge, dry it, then melt it to obtain a significant increase in recovery - but probably not worth the effort.
I wonder if the dross could be placed in an acid bath to dissolve the aluminum then filter out the unwanted stuff and then precipitate the aluminum back out
Aluminum can be used to precipitate most metals from solution, but I have never heard it being done the other way around.
It's amazing how many more bars you got from that slag....
Love the videos! You should do some fire ant hill casting!
Great Video as usual. Fellow metal head here, love the intros. Any luck getting some broken cymbals to melt from your drummer friends? That would be very cool. Anyway, keep making awesome content. I always enjoy your vids. 🤘
Thanks Chris! Love Metal! I’ll put the pulse out to try and get some and melt them down. 👍
Do cymbals even break? Never heard of it.
@@calrob300 Yeah, they crack, pieces can chip off or break away.
Drumming for 25 years I've probably broken 20 or 30 cymbals, maybe more. Think of the liberty bell....same thing just smaller and thinner.
@@chrismaille3478 Hi Chris. Wow that's something. As a pianist I would never have guessed! Thanks for the insight.
Why have you put this powder inside it, what is its function and what is the name of this powder?
11:22 If you get more aluminum blocks you could make the garage floor in the aluminum wishbone pattern 😂
BTW it's called a herringbone pattern. The wishbone is the thing you break on thanksgiving in America!
I think if you pre heat the mold before pouring, it will be a more evenly shaped ingot
Leave the mold on top of the furnace between pours. Not only will it ensure there's no moisture, the ingots will have a cleaner finish. They'll just take a bit longer to go off. I know the finish isn't that important but a smooth ingot with less cooling dip is always nice to look at.
Wait until you have enough gold to pour your first gold bar, you'll lose your mind 😁
What material is the crucible made of?
WOOT, I suggested this on that 8000+ can video ! :D
I wonder if a larger crucible would reduce waste material when doing larger batches or if it would be pretty much the same.
That’s a lot of dross. Great recovery of good metal. Awesome video 👍
I get a chill up my spine at some of the shots of glowing red hot goop
Is there a more energy efficient method?
Seems that 95% of the heat is lost!
My understanding is a bit limited - but as I understand, flux is meant to absorb oxygen during the heating process, to reduce the creation of dross. So far as I'm aware salt can't really do that, while borax can, though I've heard that olive oil or parafrin can help with metals like lead and aluminum. My guess is that you need to add more every time you skim off the top or refill the crucible to make sure the seal remains.
Good job on the recovery and I hope you find a method that works well for you.
In my opinion his metal was wayyy to hot and I think that may be part of the cause of so much slag. Not sure what he used for flux either, but the metal is just way too reactive. Alu has a dull cherry under the silver when at temp .. I've never seen it glowing like iron before - Holy hell. He also only has so much metal mixed in because he simply was too vigorous in removing the dross the first time. All this pain is his own fault.
Do you use green sand for bucket casting
I use Petrobond sand. 👍
I can see a bend in the wood where all the aluminum ingots are
Very cool. I’m still not sure about the difference between dross and slag. I tried reading some articles on it and some of them seemed to has different explanations.
On most things I’ve read, I think of dross as the oxidation and impurities in low temp melting metals like lead, zinc, aluminum, etc that is skimmed off the top while slag is a byproduct from smelting metals from ore, such as in the production of steel. But there’s different definitions and variations so… 🤷♂️
Jeez so much slag how long have you been building up that pile!? Super cool vid so far can't wait to see how much you get back!
That was from one melt. Check out my massive can meltdown 8,405 can melting video. There’s a link at the end of this video 👍
In Australia is it Slag (BigStackD)
I JUST realized what you used to pick up those blocks. LOL
What was the cost of the fuel?
New to the channel very cool where do you get you forge and supplies from ty
This is from an old timer, been there, did that a lot. I never waste MAPP gas preheating a graphite mold, you already have a huge fire shooting out of the foundry kiln, just set the mold near the vent hole and it will more than warm it to any temperature you desire.
Your video made me curious as how much flux is needed. I looked it up found that 1:1 flux of NaCl/KCl only needs to be about 0.25-0.50% of the total weight. Not nitpicking, just wanted to share.
Also, if the dross can be crushed & the flux is mixed in well premelt more aluminum can be recovered. Apparently, the finer the better.
Not sure what the primary aluminum molecule is in the dross, I assume aluminium oxide. If so you might want to look at reduction reactions for aluminium oxide. I know you can reduce some metal oxides with carbon(known as a carbon reduction reaction), just not sure about aluminum.
What does the flux do?
Why is the salt added?
That was a lot of aluminum recovered from just dross. Never thought there was that much aluminum left in there. That’s crazy😄👍
would you make a hyrule family crest or just a triforce and what would you sell something like that for?
How much would each ingot be worth? And what would you do with them ?
I learned a lot about aluminum from Don Drumm many years ago; his shop was 10 miles from where I grew up). I watch Thub (im not a scrapper or have anything to do with scrapping) and find the amount of scrap to be had fascinating.
However, I am a media reseller, so it doesn't surprise me on what people through away that is worth $20-100 to over $1000s.
Anyhow. Ive wondered for a while if y'all remelt the slag / dross for further recovery. it's "pocket change" but it all adds up.
A great collection brother! I like smelting too. I use wood fire, mostly. I'm experimenting with my rig to make it more efficient. your channel is an inspiration?
It may be a pain with how much time it takes to complete, however even by halfway through the video, the recovery rate of aluminum material is so worth it already!
What's your plan with all this aluminum?
Strangely compelling 😎👏🏻👏🏻
75 years later, this guy will not only refine his stacks for the 3rd time, but will also refine all his dross to usable metal with little remaining leftover dross
You certainly have patience. Nice video.
This is probably a dumb question but why doesn’t your spoon melt?