Another question: I didn't realize it was burning oil because there was no smoke. But I guess the catalytic converter took care of that. Did that stress the cat con -- does it need to be replaced?
@@bewingbewing I looked at mine when the motor was apart and mine seemed fine so I reused it. I think if it was clogged sure change it but if it looks good while it’s apart I’d probably reuse. Just my opinion. Good luck on your build.
Dorman has a "timing chain guide bolt replacement" 917-954. They have a "case study" and video. Not sure if the Dorman bolt is preventative maintenance. Is the the failure is from OEM tensioner, oil sprayer, cheap plastic guides, bolt, etc. I read that the tensioner and oil sprayer were upgraded in replacement kits. Regardless, might not be a bad idea to check the bolt is tight (I suppose that is easiest taking off the round cover). If one installs the Dorman bolt, I'm not 100% sure if the tensionoer should be loosened and redelployed (which require removing the valve cover).
@@factoryratgarageThanks, I just saw that on the next video. Do you think one could install the bolt as prevention without messing around with the tensioner?
@@dosgos I would say it’s possible but if you pull the bolt out the chain will tighten from the tensioner, so I would say if you do it I’d recommend taking the timing cover off to release the tension on tensioner.
Did you put new rod and main bearings in or just reuse the old ones? Also, what did you gap the rings at? Is the engine still consuming a lot of oil? Never seen someone ring slap an engine without at least ball honing it first.
Same rod and main bearings, they had almost zero wear. I can’t remember the gap, I know when I checked them they were spot on so no filing. There was still good cross hatching so didn’t see the need. Runs good everyday since the rebuild and uses no oil.
@@factoryratgarage Thats great to hear. My 2010 with 120k skipped time and smacked the head. Tearing it down now to see how back but borescope showed not too much damage to the piston.
@@factoryratgarage so I got the head off and bent all 16 valves but overall head and pistons looks ok, if done uglier broads. What did you use to clean the mating surfaces and the carbon out of the head.
Another question: I didn't realize it was burning oil because there was no smoke. But I guess the catalytic converter took care of that. Did that stress the cat con -- does it need to be replaced?
@@bewingbewing I looked at mine when the motor was apart and mine seemed fine so I reused it. I think if it was clogged sure change it but if it looks good while it’s apart I’d probably reuse. Just my opinion. Good luck on your build.
Your video inspires me to fix my own 2.4L Ecotec (2012 Terrain)! Question: do you have any idea how All-Wheel Drive affects the job? Thanks
@@bewingbewing mine was AWD and I don’t think it would affect the job much if any at all. Thanks for watching and good luck on your build.
Dorman has a "timing chain guide bolt replacement" 917-954. They have a "case study" and video.
Not sure if the Dorman bolt is preventative maintenance.
Is the the failure is from OEM tensioner, oil sprayer, cheap plastic guides, bolt, etc. I read that the tensioner and oil sprayer were upgraded in replacement kits. Regardless, might not be a bad idea to check the bolt is tight (I suppose that is easiest taking off the round cover).
If one installs the Dorman bolt, I'm not 100% sure if the tensionoer should be loosened and redelployed (which require removing the valve cover).
I installed the replacement tensioner bolt. It’s a better design and like it.
@@factoryratgarageThanks, I just saw that on the next video. Do you think one could install the bolt as prevention without messing around with the tensioner?
@@dosgos I would say it’s possible but if you pull the bolt out the chain will tighten from the tensioner, so I would say if you do it I’d recommend taking the timing cover off to release the tension on tensioner.
@@factoryratgarageThank you! This is a great 2.4 rebuild series.
@@dosgos thank you
Did you put new rod and main bearings in or just reuse the old ones? Also, what did you gap the rings at? Is the engine still consuming a lot of oil? Never seen someone ring slap an engine without at least ball honing it first.
Same rod and main bearings, they had almost zero wear. I can’t remember the gap, I know when I checked them they were spot on so no filing. There was still good cross hatching so didn’t see the need. Runs good everyday since the rebuild and uses no oil.
Did this fix your issue still today?
Yes still running good today.
@@factoryratgarage Thats great to hear. My 2010 with 120k skipped time and smacked the head. Tearing it down now to see how back but borescope showed not too much damage to the piston.
@@xTheunknowntuberx good luck I’ll try to help if I can.
@@factoryratgarage Thanks for the offer. I'll keep you posted
@@factoryratgarage so I got the head off and bent all 16 valves but overall head and pistons looks ok, if done uglier broads. What did you use to clean the mating surfaces and the carbon out of the head.