Great to hear! And I gotta tell you …the Pantorouter is such a fun machine to use. I now view it as a milling machine that’s made for wood 😆 Super versatile, accurate, clever in design, intuitive in use and more. Fun , fast , all sorts of reasons to love it. Much thanks.
You've outdone yourself on this video, Ramon. There are so many good tips and I love seeing how you use the pantorouter. I need to add one to my arsenal. I also need to add a router insert in my K3 outfeed table to take advantage of the sliding table. What a superb idea. Thanks for a great 33 minutes.
Nice video. I really like the setup with the router on the back of your sliding table saw, using the long crosscut fence to approach the bit "from behind" the saw and parallel to the motion of the slider. I don't have a router in that spot on my slider, but if I did I probably would have only thought of approaching the bit in a perpendicular manner, as if it was a shaper-based model (i.e. a B3 and not a K3). Now I'm wondering if I can squeeze in a router back there and use it in the same manner, although the space limits in my shop come into play here.
Thanks a ton. Yeah…I’ve used the router/slider to cut rabbets/dados in long panels before. But going the direction of the table saw slider, or the same motion. But for small cuts it’s easier to stand on the back side. I don’t use it often, but when I do, it works very well.
I agree completely whit wat you said from 12:00 tot 13:00 minutes about both the straight lines aswel as the blade hight. I don't have a bandsaw and the few curves I need to make I will make with an jigsaw beltsander or an drill attachment
Yeah…table saws may get a bad rap for being dangerous…but so is driving down the road. Bandsaws definitely have their place…I have three of em, but so do table saws. For cutting straight…I’ve always preferred a table saw with the exception of slicing veneers. Anyway…whatever tool/machine works yeah? Much thanks.
As always lots of great stuff and inspired me to upgrade my bench wich I made in 2017 but I have way more experience know and a beeter sense of what I need want in a bench I am going to make that extension piece for sure
Awesome as always!!! Thanks for sharing. I'm building windows and would like to do through tenons but I'm having difficulty finding a bit long enough to cut through 2 1/4" stiles. Any suggestions? Thanks again
Exactly the way you phrased it…for maximum durability, yes, conversion varnish is superior. I use lacquer as well, but only if I feel that the piece won’t see any water, moisture, drinks etc. Conversion varnish can handle all of that and is extremely scratch resistant. The caveat…more expensive and a little finicky to set up, measure the catalyst etc….but for me, totally worth it. The finish (I like the “dull rubbed sheen”) looks a lot like a hand rubbed oil/poly. If applied correctly (not a heavy build) it is quite beautiful…about the best as far as top coat type finishes. Hope that helps.
@@ramonartful That is a great response, thank you. I've been struggling between conversion varnish or Arm-R-Seal. Your input sealed (pun) the deal for me.
Punny 😆 Top coat type finishes like shellac, polyurethane, lacquer and conversion varnish are typically more durable. As the name implies, they build on top of the surface. If it’s high gloss or too thick it can look like a plastic coating. I believe that conversion varnish shouldn’t be more than 4 mils thick. For me, that’s two seal coats, lightly sanded between them and one top coat. I use the same material for sealing and top coat. The water based polyurethane (Minwax makes one ) is pretty good too. Shellac looks good but will “melt” with an alcoholic drink! 🥃😆Lacquer just doesn’t hold up to moisture long term. With all finishes…once it’s in use…a lightly damp cloth to clean…and always follow up with a dry one. It’ll last forever. Now, oil/wax blends or rub in finishes soak in to help seal the wood. They look amazing once applied but lack the protection, unless maintained or “re-sealed” periodically.
New sub here, just received my Pantorouter today so a search brought me here. Very nice work here and thanks for sharing your tips. Where you joined the short leg onto the longer leg - I'm curious if using say 3 or 4 horizontal tenons would leave the long leg stronger vs the 2 vertical ones.
Thanks a ton and welcome! That’s a good point. Horizontal tenons would have been quite small…but with that many it probably would have worked. This banner stand doesn’t hold much weight and was similar to my original stand that lasted 20 plus years with much more use back then. Technically, the grain orientation isn’t correct. But with the screws wedging the tenon tight, it should be plenty strong including the long section. Wow…it really sounds like I’m trying hard to defend the design! 😆
@@ramonartful no need to defend you outclass me by a long shot. I love that you don't go overboard on the YT Bro vibe. Looking forward to backtracking through your vids. PS: take a look at my tool cabinet video. It's a pretty cool one.
I haven’t made one yet. I’ve been using the Pantorouter for a while now. I have a few ideas on what I want the cart to have. The stylus/bearings should be easily accessible and on the left side…things like that. One of these days I’ll build it 😆
@@jaredslawnservice1 At the time, I believe I had it on my smaller workbench. And yes, long boards aren't a problem at all. One simply has to support it with...whatever. Maybe a sawhorse with a board clamped to it. This should also be a feature on a cart that I'd like to build. An optional platform that's level with the Pantorouter table. 👍
Bonjour je possède un de vos pantorouteur depuis quelques années je souhaite faire des queues d’arronde sur un peigne DT1/2" mais je ne trouve pas la bonne taille de fraise pour réalisé le travail. Pourriez-vous me dire où me fournir les bonne référence de la fraise à utilisé pour cela ou m’en fournir une? Je resident en Belgique. D’avance merci pour votre aide. Cordialement Dominique
Bonjour, essayez ce lien ; www.pantorouter.com/getting-started/#how-to-guides ou envoyez un e-mail directement à Pantorouter ; info@pantorouter.com Merci, Ramon
At 25:50 you use a screw wich of course is fine but wouldn't it be beter to let those tennon, s Long and make a mortise it the other feet that you would have an strong joint. Unless you are making some kind of knock down joint didn't watched the full vid yet
The two tenons are long and go all the way through. The screw is merely to hold that joint whilst the glue dries. Then, I added two metal inserts which expanded the tenons, further adding strength & locking them into place. After that, the tall upright components attached with machine screws into those inserts for a knock down capability. The uprights were also housed into a dado. Believe me, it’s strong!💪🏼😬 thanks
I'm going to have to watch this again AND take notes! Excellent work and tips...so want to get a Pantorouter to add to CNC
Great to hear! And I gotta tell you …the Pantorouter is such a fun machine to use. I now view it as a milling machine that’s made for wood 😆 Super versatile, accurate, clever in design, intuitive in use and more. Fun , fast , all sorts of reasons to love it. Much thanks.
You've outdone yourself on this video, Ramon. There are so many good tips and I love seeing how you use the pantorouter. I need to add one to my arsenal. I also need to add a router insert in my K3 outfeed table to take advantage of the sliding table. What a superb idea. Thanks for a great 33 minutes.
You’re a champ man…I appreciate the great feedback !
great vid. i'm just starting to get comfortable with my pantorouter. love your stuff. you earned a suscribe.
Great to hear…Much thanks!
Thanks for all the tips in this one. Great stuff.
Jay! Thanks brotha 👊🏼
Great job man! Thx for video!
Thank you! And thanks for checking it out!
I just found your channel today. Love to pickup techniques from a brother wood worker. Beautiful work Ramon!
Thanks man…I appreciate that! And welcome! 👊🏼
Nice video. I really like the setup with the router on the back of your sliding table saw, using the long crosscut fence to approach the bit "from behind" the saw and parallel to the motion of the slider. I don't have a router in that spot on my slider, but if I did I probably would have only thought of approaching the bit in a perpendicular manner, as if it was a shaper-based model (i.e. a B3 and not a K3). Now I'm wondering if I can squeeze in a router back there and use it in the same manner, although the space limits in my shop come into play here.
Thanks a ton. Yeah…I’ve used the router/slider to cut rabbets/dados in long panels before. But going the direction of the table saw slider, or the same motion. But for small cuts it’s easier to stand on the back side. I don’t use it often, but when I do, it works very well.
I agree completely whit wat you said from 12:00 tot 13:00 minutes about both the straight lines aswel as the blade hight. I don't have a bandsaw and the few curves I need to make I will make with an jigsaw beltsander or an drill attachment
Yeah…table saws may get a bad rap for being dangerous…but so is driving down the road. Bandsaws definitely have their place…I have three of em, but so do table saws. For cutting straight…I’ve always preferred a table saw with the exception of slicing veneers. Anyway…whatever tool/machine works yeah? Much thanks.
Great craftmanship, great explanation! Hope for your channel to grow exponentially, hi from Romania, land of Dracula 😉.
Thank you! I appreciate you checking out the channel!
I’ve got the HNT Gordon vises and I just ordered a pantorouter. I just need to figure out how to get your talent and I’ll be all set!
What a great comment to wake up to! 😆 Thank you tons…you’re gonna love the Pantorouter! And yeah…HNT vises are super smooth. Cheers
As always lots of great stuff and inspired me to upgrade my bench wich I made in 2017 but I have way more experience know and a beeter sense of what I need want in a bench I am going to make that extension piece for sure
Thanks man…I don’t use it often, but when I do…it’s amazing!
Awesome as always!!! Thanks for sharing. I'm building windows and would like to do through tenons but I'm having difficulty finding a bit long enough to cut through 2 1/4" stiles. Any suggestions? Thanks again
Thanks for watching! ToolsToday carries long bits. Or if you search for bits for the Multirouter…I think they have some as well.
Dude! I wish I could work in your shop with you. Thanks so much! Subbing!
Yeah…we’d have fun. Thanks for the support! 🙏🏼
Where can one find that centering bit, searches just show the spring loaded drilling ones. Thanks for the good vids.
Google search “centering bit for routers”. Lee Valley has one that they call a center finding pin. Thanks for the good words!
@@ramonartful Found one, thanks. I'm a rookie, so thanks for the teaching.
Ramon, is conversion varnish your go to, for maximum durability. Doing a walnut kitchen table, should that be my go to finish?
Exactly the way you phrased it…for maximum durability, yes, conversion varnish is superior. I use lacquer as well, but only if I feel that the piece won’t see any water, moisture, drinks etc. Conversion varnish can handle all of that and is extremely scratch resistant. The caveat…more expensive and a little finicky to set up, measure the catalyst etc….but for me, totally worth it. The finish (I like the “dull rubbed sheen”) looks a lot like a hand rubbed oil/poly. If applied correctly (not a heavy build) it is quite beautiful…about the best as far as top coat type finishes. Hope that helps.
@@ramonartful That is a great response, thank you. I've been struggling between conversion varnish or Arm-R-Seal. Your input sealed (pun) the deal for me.
Punny 😆 Top coat type finishes like shellac, polyurethane, lacquer and conversion varnish are typically more durable. As the name implies, they build on top of the surface. If it’s high gloss or too thick it can look like a plastic coating. I believe that conversion varnish shouldn’t be more than 4 mils thick. For me, that’s two seal coats, lightly sanded between them and one top coat. I use the same material for sealing and top coat. The water based polyurethane (Minwax makes one ) is pretty good too. Shellac looks good but will “melt” with an alcoholic drink! 🥃😆Lacquer just doesn’t hold up to moisture long term. With all finishes…once it’s in use…a lightly damp cloth to clean…and always follow up with a dry one. It’ll last forever.
Now, oil/wax blends or rub in finishes soak in to help seal the wood. They look amazing once applied but lack the protection, unless maintained or “re-sealed” periodically.
New sub here, just received my Pantorouter today so a search brought me here. Very nice work here and thanks for sharing your tips. Where you joined the short leg onto the longer leg - I'm curious if using say 3 or 4 horizontal tenons would leave the long leg stronger vs the 2 vertical ones.
Thanks a ton and welcome!
That’s a good point. Horizontal tenons would have been quite small…but with that many it probably would have worked. This banner stand doesn’t hold much weight and was similar to my original stand that lasted 20 plus years with much more use back then. Technically, the grain orientation isn’t correct. But with the screws wedging the tenon tight, it should be plenty strong including the long section. Wow…it really sounds like I’m trying hard to defend the design! 😆
@@ramonartful no need to defend you outclass me by a long shot. I love that you don't go overboard on the YT Bro vibe. Looking forward to backtracking through your vids.
PS: take a look at my tool cabinet video. It's a pretty cool one.
@@thwwoodcraft1449 Not sure why, but I cant find your channel to see your tool cabinet. And not sure what you mean "YT Bro vibe" ?
@@ramonartful
th-cam.com/video/sLHhR7Us97I/w-d-xo.html
What for cart are you using for your panto router?
I haven’t made one yet. I’ve been using the Pantorouter for a while now. I have a few ideas on what I want the cart to have. The stylus/bearings should be easily accessible and on the left side…things like that. One of these days I’ll build it 😆
What do you have it mounted on in the video? I like how you can stick long boards in it.
@@jaredslawnservice1 At the time, I believe I had it on my smaller workbench. And yes, long boards aren't a problem at all. One simply has to support it with...whatever. Maybe a sawhorse with a board clamped to it. This should also be a feature on a cart that I'd like to build. An optional platform that's level with the Pantorouter table. 👍
Bonjour je possède un de vos pantorouteur depuis quelques années je souhaite faire des queues d’arronde sur un peigne DT1/2" mais je ne trouve pas la bonne taille de fraise pour réalisé le travail.
Pourriez-vous me dire où me fournir les bonne référence de la fraise à utilisé pour cela ou m’en fournir une?
Je resident en Belgique.
D’avance merci pour votre aide.
Cordialement
Dominique
Bonjour, essayez ce lien ; www.pantorouter.com/getting-started/#how-to-guides
ou envoyez un e-mail directement à Pantorouter ; info@pantorouter.com
Merci, Ramon
At 25:50 you use a screw wich of course is fine but wouldn't it be beter to let those tennon, s Long and make a mortise it the other feet that you would have an strong joint. Unless you are making some kind of knock down joint didn't watched the full vid yet
The two tenons are long and go all the way through. The screw is merely to hold that joint whilst the glue dries. Then, I added two metal inserts which expanded the tenons, further adding strength & locking them into place. After that, the tall upright components attached with machine screws into those inserts for a knock down capability. The uprights were also housed into a dado. Believe me, it’s strong!💪🏼😬 thanks