Good video and well explained for those looking for information to build one. I've made a few of these myself and they work great. One suggestion is to take the center of the bottle that was cut away from the parts to make the stove and cut the tube from end to end. Then you can take a couple of these and paperclip them together and make a windscreen. The only part that will not be used is the top of the bottle.
Drilling the jet holes before putting the two pieces together is so blindingly obvious that no one ever seems to think of it. I know I didn’t and I haven’t seen it on any other tutorial. No worries about going through both walls!! This tip alone was worth watching the video! Thank you!
I've been building these by the dozens and giving them to all my friends who love camping, and coffee :) I wish I had known how to make these back when I worked for the army.
I've made dozens of these since I first saw your video years back. Of course Budweiser changed the cans ever so slightly in a way that makes the stoves a little flimsier. But we use them up in the mountains to boil water and they work great!! Many thanks for the instructions and inspiration!
Thanks for answering The Bush Homestead questions as they were two of the three questions that I have about the holes. The question that I have unanswered is, what is the hole diameter? What size drill bit? I figure that this is crucial for proper jet performance and efficiency. This is definitely stored in the "archives" for future reference when I decide to build an alcohol stove. Thanks for the Best design that I've seen so far and a Great instructional video!
That's by far the most complete, easy to follow DIY stove video I've seen. It's especially cool of you to share this info considering you sell them, Thanks!
Good instructional video I like your jigs you made on the marking and the hole press drilling templet if I could add one suggestion I am sure everyone watching would have loved to see the stove in action at the end.
i have been researching these alcohol stoves alot and i have to say you have done a graet job with this video and the info you have given is great. awesome job thanks and keep posting vids.i have a few ideas for the burner holes if your you would like to try them out just let me know i look forward to talking to you thanks again for the great videos
great video ,,thanks for sharing !! could you please tell me the height mark on the jets from the bottom of the can ,,,and also the height of your compression cup ?? ,thanks again !!
Hey TechiePrepper. I was wondering do you flatten out the convex bottom of the can before you assemble the two parts of the stove or do you just let the top of the cone press into the rounded bottom? Also I have seen some folks use fiberglass or carbon cloth as a wick inside their alcohol stoves. What are your feelings on this? Thanks for the great instructional video.
Unfortunately they really can't be these are only really good for light camping or duck hunting type deals, definitely not advised for winter use unless you have a inside tent fire but then if you were able to do that you wouldn't need a pocket stove!!!!
Hello, great video. I've been trying to make one of these. I am on my fifth attempt now... trying to make the rolling piece has been a bear! The piece to roll the tops keeps just getting stuck on the bottom of the beer can I am using to stretch the roller piece out. Every one has been lightly sanded along the inside of the rim and cleaned. I have tried drilling a hole in the center of the bottom, not drilling, and have used ample amounts of WD-40 every time. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for any help you can offer.
You should drill a hole in the die so that the gas can escape and doesn't create a lot of pressure within the die and the stove, it will make it easier to crimp.
Great video ! Although I think you took one extra step you didn't need to and that was cutting the neck down. Don't know if you did it for a little more flamage in the middle or what but good video for a greenback!
Excellent presentation... great information; thanks for posting. I love the jigs. Tough part for me: no drill press. Yet. Yet. Must admit, the de-burr-ing with the knife, moving that blade toward your own hand, made me nervous. Always would, even dull & with that glove. Nonetheless, really enjoyed the video.
thx for the truths and techniques for making one o' these--especially the grooves on top to eliminate the flame being extinguished by cold h20--now I feel much more confident in making one due to your precise instruction, I appreciate it.
The holes are 13/16th of an inch down from the top of the bottom half (if done before assembly). The distance between each hole is .365 in ~ This is derived from the circumference divided by 19. Thanks!
If you drill a small hole in the bottom of you die (what you roll the edge with), you won't need to lubricate it when you use it. Just my two cents, Thanks for the vid.
cotton ball will degrade over time, I have tried both carbon felt and fiberglass on the interior, but it didn't have any real positive effects, infact boil times slowed down a little.
If you're having trouble stretching the can bottom, that's used to curl the top of the stove, try taking the paint off of the inner can with fine steel wool, then use extra fine steel wool to polish it very smooth. Next take the polymer safety coating off of the inside of the outer can, that you're trying to stretch, with the steel wool and polish it smooth. The paint and polymer coating are seizing up. Put a vent hole in the bottom of the outer can so a vacuum doesn't form when you insert the inner can. Then use some Molybdenum Grease, referred to as "Moly," on both cans. That stuff is slicker than owl s***!
hi, tried this and all works well except the roll crimping. when i have crimped it, it leaves a slope/gradient on the top of the burner, so when i come to rest the pan on it, it slides off. is there a possible reason for this? thanks
I take the teeth of the tin snips to deburr the edges of each piece..just spin the can and hold the jaws of the tin snips at a slight angle..or a sharp angle to take more off...or to deburr it..
I followed these instructions. My jets light pretty quick, less than a minute, but the flame dies when I place a pot on it. Not sure the air vents you put on the top are getting though the liquid fuel to keep the gas lit.
1) Why don't you de-paint the surfaces before assembly? 2) Can these bottles be cut with a razor knife? By scoring them, I mean, like you can do with drink cans.
I've been able to cut the bottom off by scoring with a razor just like when making penny stoves, however, I've not found that to work on either of the cuts at the neck of the bottle.
We have the hardest time stretching the bottom can. Everyone says how they did it. Nobody shows you. You shove a full can into the bottom of the other one and it's stuck to the point of destroying the inner can to get it off and you still don't have a can that's "stretched."
+Linda Beebe I had the same problem. I decided that this is a stove I should be able to make with just a pocket knife and two cans in a real survival situation. Maybe even one can. I'm not going to have compressed air, WD-40 or a machine shop with a hydraulic press. You might want to try the Coors light aluminum bottle. It's made of lighter guage aluminum. The only problem is disposing of the disgusting hazardous waste that the bottle contains.
Try taking the paint off of the inner can with fine steel wool, then use extra fine steel wool to polish it very smooth. Next take the polymer safety coating off of the inside of the outer can, that you're trying to stretch, with the steel wool and polish it smooth. The paint and polymer coatings are seizing up. Put a vent hole in the bottom of the outer can so a vacuum doesn't form when you insert the inner can. Then use some Molybdenum Grease, referred to as "Moly," on both cans. That stuff is slicker than owl s***!
Could you not cut the bottom off the bottle, by rotating the bottle against a craft knife blade, clamped to the top of a suitably sized block of wood? That would leave you with a perfectly flat cut edge, so saving the sanding.
Just a thought here, although I haven't actually tried it yet (maybe this weekend)...I suggest drilling a hole in the bottom of the empty can that will become the die to provide a means for air to escape/enter (prevent vacuum lock), and lube the inside of the empty can with a light oil or Vaseline.
That's because, He's a BIG BOY... and He's got GUNS.... BIG GUNS... and his REAL PRIORITY IS RELOADING .... 'CUZ He's a BIG BOY... and He don't have to listen to nobody... UNLESS OF COURSE THEY'VE GOT BIG GUNS TOO... THEN they can talk about REAL BIG BOY STUFF... LIKE BIG GUNS... AND OF COURSE DRINKING BEER... 'CUZ MOMMY CAN"T TELL HIM NOT TO... 'CUZ HE'S A REAL BIG BOY !!!
You skipped over the most important step to making the little stoves ..... Emptying the bottles. Preferably after you have chilled them. I would skip the box cutter and use a Rat Tail File to get rid of the burs that are left after cutting out the sections. Then fine tune the edges with some sandpaper.
Its a very good thing that my life does not depend on me forcing the end of a bottle on the bottom of another bottle and then getting it off without destroying both bottles - - I'd love to see a tutorial on that - - I enjoyed your video - very nice presentation - but all the stuff that's easy is well documented - the thing that's IMPOSSIBLE - is glossed over - I understand if you want to keep it to yourself - but until I see it with my own eyes - I have to believe it is impossible - maybe Superman could pull it off there but Batman would have no chance.
+Thomas Martin - Obviously - I bet you're going to tell me that lubrication helps also - are you telling me that you have achieved this 'impossible feat' with the instructions given in the tutorial with no other 'secret' techniques??? I just can't believe it without seeing it done - as I said previously - the tutorial covers every other aspect of the stove building in minute detail - but this - the impossible thing - is not covered at all.
***** Honestly it was about 2 years ago that we made our stoves, and figuring out the way to make the end of the bottle fit over another bottle was a nasty task. We ruined a couple bottoms trying. Here's what I recall, and maybe some of this will be helpful... We cut it fairly short, and drilled a hole in it to relive air pressure. I could measure when I get home, I believe I still have the part. Silicon lube also helped get it off, once it was on. We used it for a while and made a half dozen or so stoves before it failed. Lots of silicon lube helped a lot. To the point where it was dripping all over the workshop. Once you get it over the end once, each time after is easier. After the first one failed, we made a second one even shorter, and eventually it failed too. Drilling the hole in the bottom was an idea we got on our second or third try. IIRC, we got one jammed on a bottle, and couldn't get it off! We may have used the wide mouth'd wood vise to force the parts together. I wish I had taken some notes. I'll dig up my box of parts and see what I have left. If I have a usable mandrel left, I'd be happy to throw it in a box and send it to you.
I know this is an old thread but if you haven't figured out yet how to make the rollover die, this might help. Drill a small hole in the bottom of the die to let the air in/out. While stretching the die try using a full unopened bottle to stretch it, it's much stronger. Make sure to compress it evenly. Now here is a trick I haven't seen mentioned anywhere yet. Besides lubricating the bottles either with silicone or good old WD40 for easier separation, (remember that little hole?) put some compressed air in it now. I shoot mine with the air compressor and "presto" the pieces are separated. This trick also works great for removing or installing bicycle hand grips minus the silicone or WD40.
cut AWAY from your thumb. I know you're wearing a glove, but cutting away from yourself is rule number one of cutting safety. burying a box cutter in your thumb really, really sucks, and you could potentially lose the use of it if you cut through a tendon.
He doesn't really care about all that stuff you're talking about. He's really macho, and drinking Beer, and He really don't care. He's just too grown up to listen to your fearsome stuff... th-cam.com/video/PEGoEPtFDkM/w-d-xo.html He's got RELOADING STUFF... HIS REAL PRIORITY... He's a MACHO, GUN TOTING, BIG BOY.... He doesn't have to listen to you... 'cuz he's Got Guns...!!! BIG GUNS !!!
No. ALCOA is the third largest Aluminum corporation in the world and have the widest variety and most specialized grades of Aluminum in the world, and is the oldest Aluminum corporation on the planet with roots dating back as far as 1886 to Charles Martin Hall, who invented the Hall-Heroult process which kickstarted the aluminum industry to grow what we know today. On all bars of ALCOA aluminum its marked very clearly in all caps and in bold lettering ALUMINUM - ALCOA - 6061 or whatever numeralized grade at the end. Considering that ALCOA is the oldest Aluminum corporation on the planet, and by far most sophisticated being the only aluminum corporation on the planet to manufacture the higher grades of aircraft aluminum, I think they know what the fuck they are doing.
Do we really have to wait and listen to you indulging in a beer while you've promised not to waste the time we've committed to hearing about this project. Why do we have to put up with your self indulgences.... Pretty RUDE !!! I'm just saying....
Good video and well explained for those looking for information to build one. I've made a few of these myself and they work great. One suggestion is to take the center of the bottle that was cut away from the parts to make the stove and cut the tube from end to end. Then you can take a couple of these and paperclip them together and make a windscreen. The only part that will not be used is the top of the bottle.
Drilling the jet holes before putting the two pieces together is so blindingly obvious that no one ever seems to think of it. I know I didn’t and I haven’t seen it on any other tutorial. No worries about going through both walls!! This tip alone was worth watching the video! Thank you!
I've been building these by the dozens and giving them to all my friends who love camping, and coffee :) I wish I had known how to make these back when I worked for the army.
I've made dozens of these since I first saw your video years back. Of course Budweiser changed the cans ever so slightly in a way that makes the stoves a little flimsier. But we use them up in the mountains to boil water and they work great!! Many thanks for the instructions and inspiration!
Think this is the cleanest made stove yet! Nicely done!
Thanks for taking the time to be so descriptive.
Excellent video, is the best I've seen on the net and I think I've seen everything.
Thanks for answering The Bush Homestead questions as they were two of the three questions that I have about the holes. The question that I have unanswered is, what is the hole diameter? What size drill bit? I figure that this is crucial for proper jet performance and efficiency.
This is definitely stored in the "archives" for future reference when I decide to build an alcohol stove.
Thanks for the Best design that I've seen so far and a Great instructional video!
Never mind. At 2:50 you tell us.
I'm sorry that I wasn't paying attention.
That's by far the most complete, easy to follow DIY stove video I've seen. It's especially cool of you to share this info considering you sell them, Thanks!
Best instructional I have seen yet using the "heavy" aluminum... Thanks
Real nice trick with the rolled edge.Thanks!
Good instructional video I like your jigs you made on the marking and the hole press drilling templet if I could add one suggestion I am sure everyone watching would have loved to see the stove in action at the end.
A swig within the first 20 seconds! Classic!!
i have been researching these alcohol stoves alot and i have to say you have done a graet job with this video and the info you have given is great. awesome job thanks and keep posting vids.i have a few ideas for the burner holes if your you would like to try them out just let me know i look forward to talking to you thanks again for the great videos
Awesome! Great Job. PLUS!!! This gives me a good excuse to go out and buy some beer!!!
You have put a lot of thought and effort in to this. Your video was done very well. Look forward to more
I like the jig for drilling the holes ,nice job.
great video ,,thanks for sharing !! could you please tell me the height mark on the jets from the bottom of the can ,,,and also the height of your compression cup ?? ,thanks again !!
Hey TechiePrepper. I was wondering do you flatten out the convex bottom of the can before you
assemble the two parts of the stove or do you just let the top of the cone press into the rounded
bottom? Also I have seen some folks use fiberglass or carbon cloth as a wick inside their alcohol
stoves. What are your feelings on this?
Thanks for the great instructional video.
How far from the bottom do you drill the holes?
Good video, very thorough,. How would you change your design for higher altitudes (to 15K) in cold weather, if at all?
Unfortunately they really can't be these are only really good for light camping or duck hunting type deals, definitely not advised for winter use unless you have a inside tent fire but then if you were able to do that you wouldn't need a pocket stove!!!!
What is the secret to making the die for rolling the top without getting it stuck to the other can?
Hello, great video. I've been trying to make one of these. I am on my fifth attempt now... trying to make the rolling piece has been a bear! The piece to roll the tops keeps just getting stuck on the bottom of the beer can I am using to stretch the roller piece out. Every one has been lightly sanded along the inside of the rim and cleaned. I have tried drilling a hole in the center of the bottom, not drilling, and have used ample amounts of WD-40 every time. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for any help you can offer.
You should drill a hole in the die so that the gas can escape and doesn't create a lot of pressure within the die and the stove, it will make it easier to crimp.
Brother what a great tutorial that was phenomenal........Thank you so much and keep up with the good work!!!
Brilliant Fantastic job well done.
Man you go through a lot to get that stove perfect. Nice Job.
Thanks, very useful and detailed! Now, to the shop to make mine :)
This is an excellent idea, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for sharing the secret I appreciated god blessed you!
That was very well done and informative. I liked seeing the use of jig's. Have you thought about making a lot of them and selling them on ebay?
Great vid! Never gave a thought to putting breathers on the top edge. How deep do you cut them?
Great video ! Although I think you took one extra step you didn't need to and that was cutting the neck down. Don't know if you did it for a little more flamage in the middle or what but good video for a greenback!
awesome video! Love that jig at the beginning!
Excellent presentation... great information; thanks for posting.
I love the jigs. Tough part for me: no drill press. Yet.
Yet.
Must admit, the de-burr-ing with the knife, moving that blade toward your own hand, made me nervous. Always would, even dull & with that glove. Nonetheless, really enjoyed the video.
Is there an issue with your website? Was going to order and it seems your paypal link is not working or something. Thanks.
Great video ! Did you try the new Twit cap bottles ? Would love to see a video on them !
Very good friend !
when you use the jewellers file on the rolled edge, are you just scoring the edge or are you filing right through the edge exposing the inner wall?
thx for the truths and techniques for making one o' these--especially the grooves on top to eliminate the flame being extinguished by cold h20--now I feel much more confident in making one due to your precise instruction, I appreciate it.
Are you still selling these? the link to buy does not work.
The holes are 13/16th of an inch down from the top of the bottom half (if done before assembly). The distance between each hole is .365 in ~ This is derived from the circumference divided by 19. Thanks!
If you drill a small hole in the bottom of you die (what you roll the edge with), you won't need to lubricate it when you use it. Just my two cents, Thanks for the vid.
Great jigs and shims!
Are you no longer selling these? I was excited to order one but the website gave me issues.
cotton ball will degrade over time, I have tried both carbon felt and fiberglass on the interior, but it didn't have any real positive effects, infact boil times slowed down a little.
Can you still get these bottles?
What is the measurement of the 19 holes from the bottom of the can? And, how far apart are each whole?
I would have liked to seen it burn .
4 out of 5 ⭐️
If you're having trouble stretching the can bottom, that's used to curl the top of the stove, try taking the paint off of the inner can with fine steel wool, then use extra fine steel wool to polish it very smooth. Next take the polymer safety coating off of the inside of the outer can, that you're trying to stretch, with the steel wool and polish it smooth. The paint and polymer coating are seizing up. Put a vent hole in the bottom of the outer can so a vacuum doesn't form when you insert the inner can. Then use some Molybdenum Grease, referred to as "Moly," on both cans. That stuff is slicker than owl s***!
Can one modify this design to make a functioning rocket nozzle?
Do you still sell them?
hi, tried this and all works well except the roll crimping. when i have crimped it, it leaves a slope/gradient on the top of the burner, so when i come to rest the pan on it, it slides off. is there a possible reason for this? thanks
yeah, its a bit labor intensive, but the end result is worth it!
great job
Do you sell your stoves? I would like to buy one from you!
What is he main benefit that has over the simple cat-food tin?
them top groves has been going one for a long time one guy did show it now all do it but he use a vice grips on top to make a little stand off
What about testing it?
Has anyone figured out how high he's drilling the jets?
What size drill bit do you use?
I take the teeth of the tin snips to deburr the edges of each piece..just spin the can and hold the jaws of the tin snips at a slight angle..or a sharp angle to take more off...or to deburr it..
great video buddy!
Sorry the link does not work ? (to Purchase)
I followed these instructions. My jets light pretty quick, less than a minute, but the flame dies when I place a pot on it. Not sure the air vents you put on the top are getting though the liquid fuel to keep the gas lit.
You can cut them easy with scissors...hehe! I've been doing it for years. You just need good scissors :o) Working with this aluminum is very easy!
1) Why don't you de-paint the surfaces before assembly?
2) Can these bottles be cut with a razor knife? By scoring them, I mean, like you can do with drink cans.
I've been able to cut the bottom off by scoring with a razor just like when making penny stoves, however, I've not found that to work on either of the cuts at the neck of the bottle.
@@FIS681
Thx
Does anyone know how to make alcohol stoves out of empty spray paint cans?
So how much do you sell these for?
Damn. I only have one of these bottles!
thumbs up for the mortal kombat text tone
If you seal the top then the vacuum would not form and there would be no blossoming of the flame.
thank you....
We have the hardest time stretching the bottom can. Everyone says how they did it. Nobody shows you. You shove a full can into the bottom of the other one and it's stuck to the point of destroying the inner can to get it off and you still don't have a can that's "stretched."
Linda Beebe I gave up on that whole idea. I went back to using regular beverage cans.
Linda Beebe Try adding some WD-40 to the bottom can, it makes the process easier.
+Linda Beebe I had the same problem. I decided that this is a stove I should be able to make with just a pocket knife and two cans in a real survival situation. Maybe even one can. I'm not going to have compressed air, WD-40 or a machine shop with a hydraulic press. You might want to try the Coors light aluminum bottle. It's made of lighter guage aluminum. The only problem is disposing of the disgusting hazardous waste that the bottle contains.
James Bronson ok, and your pocket knife has the fuel for the stove in it? Or you can make alcohol with just that pocket knife? I'm very intrigued.
Try taking the paint off of the inner can with fine steel wool, then use extra fine steel wool to polish it very smooth. Next take the polymer safety coating off of the inside of the outer can, that you're trying to stretch, with the steel wool and polish it smooth. The paint and polymer coatings are seizing up. Put a vent hole in the bottom of the outer can so a vacuum doesn't form when you insert the inner can. Then use some Molybdenum Grease, referred to as "Moly," on both cans. That stuff is slicker than owl s***!
Could you not cut the bottom off the bottle, by rotating the bottle against a craft knife blade, clamped to the top of a suitably sized block of wood?
That would leave you with a perfectly flat cut edge, so saving the sanding.
Hey good video, sell me one of those will ya?
Can I have one?
When I try to make the rolling die, I end up with that die hopelessly stuck on the bottom of the full bottle.
Just a thought here, although I haven't actually tried it yet (maybe this weekend)...I suggest drilling a hole in the bottom of the empty can that will become the die to provide a means for air to escape/enter (prevent vacuum lock), and lube the inside of the empty can with a light oil or Vaseline.
I know, right?
@@lexboegen LUBE THE TUBE
The downside is drinking the Bud Light...;)...
That's because, He's a BIG BOY... and He's got GUNS.... BIG GUNS... and his REAL PRIORITY IS RELOADING .... 'CUZ He's a BIG BOY... and He don't have to listen to nobody... UNLESS OF COURSE THEY'VE GOT BIG GUNS TOO... THEN they can talk about REAL BIG BOY STUFF... LIKE BIG GUNS... AND OF COURSE DRINKING BEER... 'CUZ MOMMY CAN"T TELL HIM NOT TO... 'CUZ HE'S A REAL BIG BOY !!!
You skipped over the most important step to making the little stoves ..... Emptying the bottles. Preferably after you have chilled them. I would skip the box cutter and use a Rat Tail File to get rid of the burs that are left after cutting out the sections. Then fine tune the edges with some sandpaper.
The coors light is called a wide mouth can. They're not a bottle.
만들어 보고 싶은데 한국에서는 병을 구할수가 없네요 ㅜㅜ
OK so he never responded to any of his messages and left a bunch of information out what’s the point of the video?
excellent! *sub'd*
cut the can in half then use tin snips for final marked cuts.. little to know burrs
Its a very good thing that my life does not depend on me forcing the end of a bottle on the bottom of another bottle and then getting it off without destroying both bottles - - I'd love to see a tutorial on that - - I enjoyed your video - very nice presentation - but all the stuff that's easy is well documented - the thing that's IMPOSSIBLE - is glossed over - I understand if you want to keep it to yourself - but until I see it with my own eyes - I have to believe it is impossible - maybe Superman could pull it off there but Batman would have no chance.
+Tom Wells Drilling a small hole in the part fitting OVER.... helps.
+Thomas Martin - Obviously - I bet you're going to tell me that lubrication helps also - are you telling me that you have achieved this 'impossible feat' with the instructions given in the tutorial with no other 'secret' techniques??? I just can't believe it without seeing it done - as I said previously - the tutorial covers every other aspect of the stove building in minute detail - but this - the impossible thing - is not covered at all.
***** Honestly it was about 2 years ago that we made our stoves, and figuring out the way to make the end of the bottle fit over another bottle was a nasty task. We ruined a couple bottoms trying. Here's what I recall, and maybe some of this will be helpful... We cut it fairly short, and drilled a hole in it to relive air pressure. I could measure when I get home, I believe I still have the part. Silicon lube also helped get it off, once it was on.
We used it for a while and made a half dozen or so stoves before it failed. Lots of silicon lube helped a lot. To the point where it was dripping all over the workshop. Once you get it over the end once, each time after is easier. After the first one failed, we made a second one even shorter, and eventually it failed too.
Drilling the hole in the bottom was an idea we got on our second or third try. IIRC, we got one jammed on a bottle, and couldn't get it off!
We may have used the wide mouth'd wood vise to force the parts together. I wish I had taken some notes.
I'll dig up my box of parts and see what I have left. If I have a usable mandrel left, I'd be happy to throw it in a box and send it to you.
I know this is an old thread but if you haven't figured out yet how to make the rollover die, this might help. Drill a small hole in the bottom of the die to let the air in/out. While stretching the die try using a full unopened bottle to stretch it, it's much stronger. Make sure to compress it evenly. Now here is a trick I haven't seen mentioned anywhere yet. Besides lubricating the bottles either with silicone or good old WD40 for easier separation, (remember that little hole?) put some compressed air in it now. I shoot mine with the air compressor and "presto" the pieces are separated. This trick also works great for removing or installing bicycle hand grips minus the silicone or WD40.
cut AWAY from your thumb. I know you're wearing a glove, but cutting away from yourself is rule number one of cutting safety.
burying a box cutter in your thumb really, really sucks, and you could potentially lose the use of it if you cut through a tendon.
He doesn't really care about all that stuff you're talking about. He's really macho, and drinking Beer, and He really don't care. He's just too grown up to listen to your fearsome stuff... th-cam.com/video/PEGoEPtFDkM/w-d-xo.html He's got RELOADING STUFF... HIS REAL PRIORITY... He's a MACHO, GUN TOTING, BIG BOY.... He doesn't have to listen to you... 'cuz he's Got Guns...!!! BIG GUNS !!!
Funny how You Tube won't let ya do videos about Guns, and reloading and stuff... "Wacko Gun People" ... GREAT !!!
:30 takes swig from bottle.** - lmao
Need more empties to make more stoves.
So basically I''m watching a qeer make a fucking alcolol stove.
Don’t you mean aluminium.
No. ALCOA is the third largest Aluminum corporation in the world and have the widest variety and most specialized grades of Aluminum in the world, and is the oldest Aluminum corporation on the planet with roots dating back as far as 1886 to Charles Martin Hall, who invented the Hall-Heroult process which kickstarted the aluminum industry to grow what we know today.
On all bars of ALCOA aluminum its marked very clearly in all caps and in bold lettering ALUMINUM - ALCOA - 6061 or whatever numeralized grade at the end.
Considering that ALCOA is the oldest Aluminum corporation on the planet, and by far most sophisticated being the only aluminum corporation on the planet to manufacture the higher grades of aircraft aluminum, I think they know what the fuck they are doing.
Do we really have to wait and listen to you indulging in a beer while you've promised not to waste the time we've committed to hearing about this project. Why do we have to put up with your self indulgences.... Pretty RUDE !!! I'm just saying....