Chicken wire is great for keeping chickens in-it won’t do much for keeping predators out. Also: if you have your nesting boxes higher than your roosting bars the chickens will just use the nest to roost (and defecate). You need to switch those two around. Good luck!
Thanks Paulie, I guess we are just lucky because the hens never use the nests to roost, they rather be on the roosts and don't seem to care about the height. We use a premier one Intellishock 30 around the entire tractor, and have no predator problems. We use just a sing strand string wire around three times. Found it doesn't ground out like the mesh fence, and way easier to take down and put up. The hens go inside the coop and a chicken guard door keeps them safe as well.
Love the pickle bucket idea. Been trying to figure out what I was going to do for egg boxes. Already implemented the feeding tubes. Like your roofing system.
FYI about covering the ventilation. If the temperature drops below freezing, then close for the night. Keeps the body heat in. Open the next day for airflow and the ammonia fumes to escape.
You can slam the inside of the cap with a sandpaper and all round the outside of the pipe coming up or you can go get one of those thread sections that glue onto the top has the plastic cap that screws on
Don't know if someone already suggested this, but you should install a pool noodle or something on the roof edge. Sure as rain it will cut someone in the head or somewhere you'd rather not have a cut on. Take it from someone with personal experience turning around and there it was, cutting into the upper bridge of my nose. Also had a steel side to a broiler coop and in stepping over it I tripped or something and needed 8 stiches on my kneecap. Not too fun. But your tractor is awesome, quite the handyman.
It seems like you may need more ventilation in the roosting/nesting area in the summer (unless you live somewhere with cold summers). Good-looking set-up if the plywood holds up. I like your levered wheels.
Dan really thought through the design of this tractor. Very impressive! One question, though. Why not move the axle toward the rear wall of the housing part so that it would only take one person to move it?
I tried to get the wheels to balance the entire tractor. I have not updated the video, but I move it by myself 90% of the time. Only when I have to go uphill do I need a helper (my wife). With the wheels the way they are I can just lift the front and its level and rolls pretty easy. I did replace the rope with a stainless steel cable since the sun broke the nylon rope down and it snapped
Thanks! Good idea. I knew that was a weakness but didn't realize there are longer lasting zip ties. I figured I would slowly switch them over, over time. Sincerely, Dan
Black zippy ties are way better than the white ones, but stainless steel zippy ties would be best. They sell them on Amazon for around $13 for 100 of them, and they don't rust. ;-)
2:30 Looking at this design I think you could have improved it and simplified it by using another one of those big base tubes as the top center ridge. If you drilled the big top center tube all the way through you could have done away with all the four way unions and gluing and passed the side tubes straight through, it would have also given a straight and strong top ridge... what do you think ?
The only issue I see is where you have the nesting boxes. Those should be lower and the roots higher. Chickens like that better. They feel safer roosting higher at night.
Thanks Tania, I heard that too. I bet a rediesign could be done with the nexting boxes about half way up and the roosts at the top. I will say, these have worked fantastic, and I can't tell if the chickens do not like it. They lay consistently in the buckets and after nearly two years now maybe had 6 eggs on the ground inside. They are incredibly consistent hitting the bucket, and they wait in line and egg each other on to get one their favorite nest.
I finally figured out how to finess the coop around. Have not had a chicken get out in over a year. Its just the right hieght that they just walk along with me. Usually they want to walk because they are eager to get to the new grass, so its like hanging a carrot for a horse.
Thanks For Sharing...great ideas and will help me to build one that I can move on my own. I like the big window, do worry about frostbite, I'm constantly thinking insulation too.
Yeah its pretty cold in there, I did use vasiline on the hens with large combs. Going forward I won't keep any chickens with large floppy combs, just rose combs and very winter hardy hens. I hope my next flock will be 100% Wyandottes
Thank you very much! I made a new video reviewing this, but have not launched that yet. I have two years of experience now and learned a lot! Luckliy most of what I built is still working every day. Note a few changes - I reduced the nesting boxes to increase roosting space, I replaced the tires with flat free tires, I kept getting too many flats! Those hand truck tired just stink!
That is extremely cool, i sure wish i was talented in this way to be inclined to build things on my homestead instead of always having to hire someone to do the many projects that i need done, you did an awesome job my beautiful brother 😊
Start with a simple shelf and go from there. Before my husband left me, he drew plans so I could build the desk he had promised to build for me. You can do it!
Very creative 🇵🇸❤️🕊 Incredible work A plastic protector should be added to the chicken boxes To protect the chicken legs Respect and love from Jerusalem, the capital of Palestine 🇵🇸❤️🕊🐓
Glad you think so! I was just telling my family how nice it is to just leave the chicken tractor in one location for winter right now and its working great. As soon as we have enough thaw we will shuffle it around to get to the next patch of ground, but its really no rush.
I’m curious how the nesting boxes are working out above the roost. Because if you think about it, chicken lay eggs on the ground and roost on the trees above.
Good question. I don't really know. I used PVC because I wanted it to be very light for easy moving, plus long lasting. In the end I think I spent around $2000 on everything, which I probably could have just bought on LOL! But it was my covid labor of love building this and I would have gone crazy if I didn't have the project.
Great video great design. Problem ive had is sparrows eating all their food and my money ugh. I changed to 1/4 inch mesh wire instead chicken wire they cant get through. Another maybe tip instead wire electricity lay mesh around the sides predators cannot dig under
Hey Dave, Great idea! I have not had sparrow problems. I will admit I've gone to only using a 5 gallo DIY feeder. Its much more weather proof and does not spill as easily.
Thanks Glenn you are right. I noted this as well in my plans and even bought hardware cloth to wrap the runs in. However I decided to run the risk of using chicken wire for the benefit of lighter weight and also the ease of manipulating it to the shape I needed. I thought as well about running hardware cloth around the sides even after using chicken wire just for added protection. I'm new at this, so I was nervous about this, especially when thinking about the time and cost to raise the chickens. Having a tractor also means you can't really dig in underground fence either, and layout fence on the ground, which is also effective, is not very practical for a tractor. Ultimately I decided to trust that the premier electric fence would do the job. So far it has. My area is loaded with predators. Especially Raccoons, Skunks, Opossums, Fox and Coyote. Snakes and rats are around too. We found some evidence that fox and coons tried to get in, but the fence worked. We are hyper sensitive about making sure the fence is on, and that it has a good charge. So far the sun has kept it in the green and since May we have not had to give it a charge on an outlet. I hope this helps in understanding why we used chicken wire. We are constantly adapting and I'll be putting out a new video soon with about 7 changes to this tractor.
@@TrappersSNORRthanks for your detailed response. I myself also use a chicken tractor during the day but put my chickens in a coop at night. I hope the electric fence works as intended. I have the same predators in my area. I also have bear,hawks and eagle's. The bear are the reason I keep my 30 laying hens inside a very solid coop at night. I have the same type of electric fencing to keep large predators at bay. You too will find out they start off as just chickens but soon become exactly like family pets. I move my tractor everyday because of the amount of hens I have. The biggest threat for chickens seems to be the raccoon . They are actually very smart and will keep trying until they get in. I have had them nearly unlock the front door of my coop. I had multiple locks so they didnt get in. On my tractor I have drop down side made of fencing to prevent animals from digging in. You will find yourself going to great lengths to protect your flock. If you have ticks in your area... and move your tractor often your tick problem will dispear and you will have awesome farm fresh eggs daily. Good luck in your adventure!
@@glenns8418 thanks for sharing in return. Your system sounds pretty good. I hope mine will keep working too, but now you've made me nervous LOL! I envision a family of raccoons drawing up some advanced invasion scheme, then one going over and just pushing the button to turn off my fence. I just loaded all of my video clips from the past several months of changes. I should be able to post it by Monday if not sooner.
Thanks TAJ, so far so good. Mainly I get comments that we are not good enough in predator protection, but sometimes that is the nature of a tractor. I noted a lot of changes in the description which have proven to help. We are getting 2 feet of snow today, so I'm definitely learning how this thing winters. The hens all tuck into the coop around 5pm and the Chicken Guard door shuts them in. We never have eggs on the ground and I have put a waterer inside the coop for these days when they just stay inside due to weather. The electric fence has protected them so far. We are getting 10 eggs a day.
Not bad. Other than the chicken wire, if the axle were just forward of the center of the coop, it would pick up nicely. It would be close to the center of gravity.
Yeah maybe a touch more forward would help, I was trying to keep it within the coop for a simple design. I am able to pull it by myself 90% of the time and I traded out for fflat free tires which really help!
Hi😊 wonderful idea. Wat is the length, width and height of the coop and what is the with and length of the run, also the length of the pipe used for the top u's? 😁 What is the maximum amount of chickens for this size? I'm gonna build one just like it 😀
Gosh Heidi, Thats nice, to be honest I had NO IDEA I had so many comments on this. Just trying to catch up a bit. The coop is about 4 foot square. I had up to 14 chickens, but honestly I think 8-10 is a lot more comfortable for them . the run is 4 feet wide and 12 feet long I think. I added a second run that is super easy to move by itself and I connect it to the first run. Will have to do a follow up vid
I’m building one of these, but I’m not sure why you would screw the pvc, the glue bonds the plastic together like a weld. If you try to pull a joint apart it will break anywhere other than where it is glued, the glued joint becomes the strongest part.
@@spiritwings4592 Maybe we have different glue in Australia, plumbing is glued, never leaks. The glue we have bonds the 2 together so it’s like a weld the 2 plastics become one. What do your plumbers use?
@@TrappersSNORR i tow mine around with the mower, the strongest part of the whole coop are the joins, they are bonded together like a weld. th-cam.com/video/CdjU1OB0wlg/w-d-xo.html
You should've used the black UV light ones because those are just gonna deteriorate the white just deteriorates in the sun another thing is on the bottom if you were to come out longer put a 4 way route to T route there at the corner and then come up with a 45 or even a 30ﾟ or 20ﾟ or something I aint swoop It will pull around easier because you got that swoop that will slide across the grass
Thank you. As you probably saw, this is a copy of The Lewis Family Farm Ultimate PVC Chicken tractor. So I take no credit. but I did add a lot of small changes to make it adapt to our needs. I definitely didn't want open bowl feeding and since this video I put a run extension on which is super easy to move but gives the chickens double the run space. See all changes in the description. Mainly I get comments that we are not predator safe, but so far so good with the electric fence and the hens are not inside chicken wire only at night, just during the day. I'll be completely honest here if we loose the battle with the predators. Its a balance of light weight and mobility, with durability against predators and mainly the Premier electric fence is the main protection.
I'd been thinking the same - but many people have a shorter one and move it twice a day... also, I would have foot wide hardware cloth flaps to let down when we stop to keep critters from digging under the fence - it would be one more thing to set up when you stop.
Good Idea! I now do move it myself. I found out if I don't have the water hanging on there its much easier. Sometimes my wife helps with a hand truck under the back, but only if uphill.
Thanks Pat, thats a good idea on the hog wire, we will definitely look into that. I'll copy our reason for using chicken wire from a previous comment here. Also I happy admit we are beginners and always open to ideas and improvements. I spent 6 hours creating and update video last week and at the last minute my hard drive failed and I lost the entire project. Oh well, not life or death, but pretty darn frustration. I will add notes on the changes above and hope to work that video again when I have time. Until then the only time our chickens are only protected by chicken wire is 5am to 5pm, when the chicken guard door opens, at night they are in the coop which has no chicken wire. We realize the run is still an issue in daytime hours but the electric fence has already shocked cats and dogs that we have witnesses (our own dog LOL!). We still could have an issue, but so far so good on this set up. Here is my previous response to Glenn on chicken wire - - you are right. I noted this as well in my plans and even bought hardware cloth to wrap the runs in. However I decided to run the risk of using chicken wire for the benefit of lighter weight and also the ease of manipulating it to the shape I needed. I thought as well about running hardware cloth around the sides even after using chicken wire just for added protection. I'm new at this, so I was nervous about this, especially when thinking about the time and cost to raise the chickens. Having a tractor also means you can't really dig in underground fence either, and layout fence on the ground, which is also effective, is not very practical for a tractor. Ultimately I decided to trust that the premier electric fence would do the job. So far it has. My area is loaded with predators. Especially Raccoons, Skunks, Opossums, Fox and Coyote. Snakes and rats are around too. We found some evidence that fox and coons tried to get in, but the fence worked. We are hyper sensitive about making sure the fence is on, and that it has a good charge. So far the sun has kept it in the green and since May we have not had to give it a charge on an outlet. I hope this helps in understanding why we used chicken wire. We are constantly adapting and I'll be putting out a new video soon with about 7 changes to this tractor
I think it cost around $2000, I know thats too much, but it was a hobby and I was not looking to go cheap. I think it took me about a 6 weeks, mostly weekends.
So sorry, I don't have a design, but like I said in the video, I copied this one. th-cam.com/video/ZTfgmeId7mM/w-d-xo.html but he may not have to deal with snow. You can't have the door on the ground like on his tractor if you get heavy snow. Mine has the high door, and the push bar doubles as a ramp landing.
Boy, have you made this complicated. - the ultimate COVID Lockdown occupation. The joint section durability from the run to the Coop-housing looks pretty dicey to me. I'd like to see the coop review in a year's time. Also, the nesting boxes have to be lower down, according to all the advice I've looked at. There are various means of covering the nest boxes to prevent the hens from sitiing on them and pooping all over the place. Good luck.
Well I'm terrible at replies, so I guess after 9 months you probably figured it out or gave up. I'd rather not put email here and build my spam up. I do hope it worked out
Hi Larry, Yes we used electrical conduit since we understand it has sun protection compared to the plumbing PVC. I used 2 inch X 10 foot conduit for the coop. I got the three way joints at Home Depot or Lowes but I had to get the four ways at pvcfittingsonline.com . I hope this helps
Hi Peter, Thanks! I thought that might be true as well, but actually the chickens do not roost in the nesting buckets, they rather be on the roosts and never go in the buckets to roost. Maybe its just these hens, but no problems so far.
Thanks Jackie. I can see that. I also learned that they need to be able to rest their breast bone on the roost. They seem pretty happy and sleep on these just fine, but I'll keep an eye on them. I have a ring camera on solar in the coop now so I can check on them whenever I like. Its a hoot watching them get ready for bed!
the total cost of this CT has got to be outta range fer the average folks. PVC ain't cheap, neither is that black iron. So...do tell the total cost of this CT please.
To me your door is too sticking out too far when it's down from the hutch to reach into the eggs if you just had him come to the top of the bucket and then put another piece of Why would just above the buckets then that way you're not trying to reach way out there to get your eggs and accidentally drop them because you bump your arm on your board
That's Really Cool, But The SUN Will Make Your Zip Ties Brittle & Break, I Would Get A Role Of Baling Wire & Cut Them About 4 inches Long & Just Twist it ???🙄
You're right. It was more of a hobby and the money saving was not a priority for me. But having used it for nearly two years now I do appreciate its LONG lasting and I know how to fix anything on it.
My inner mad scientist sees a pin idea.. 20x20 feet ...2 inch or 1.5 inch pvc frame.. 2 feet in height .. Instead of standard corrugated roof panels cut out coke cans and use as roofing shingles...My concept is 400 square feet pin that weighs less than 200 pounds roughly..
Cool, I wonder if you mean "pen". I like the coke can shingles, I'd probably paint them if the aesthetics were an issue. sounds like your idea is a 20X20 run. I can appreciate that, especially if it is light and easy to move. Mine currently has a run extension on it, basically I copied the current run and just match it up. Its super easy to slide away when I move the tractor and the hens like the extra space. So far so good. This winter has been heavy here so we have not moved anything in about a month, but the birds seem fine and are still laying about 7 eggs a day on average. I keep throwing wood shavings into the coup via the side doors just to keep it dry and to cover the waste.
@@TrappersSNORR painting is a great idea..yeah if my napkin math is right even with a small 10x12 pen... with standard corrugated aluminium sheets thats over 120 pounds of roofing weight.. With coke cans you'd use around 60 cans and weight is maybe 2 ta 3 pounds total so your cutting the roof weight almost completely to where its possible to move a very large pen with ease.. if anchoring is needed from predators or wind.. My idea is U shaped steel wire or rebar anchoring pins sized to the pipe diameter and tapped in right over each corner..Thanks for painting roof idea will use that..
@@CDESONE scissors works usually..small surgical snips probably would be best.. Exacto knife maybe?.. Dremel tool with the right cutter probably would work good.. As far as how you attach.. wood lattice panels I think would work .. long thin wood strips is the lightest under framing I could imagine so far for the shingles .. a few north south and east west strips of wood spanning the top of pen with perhaps a tarp layered under that maybe .. on top of thin wood strips you would lay a layer of shingle strips in a row across attached to wood strips .. maybe quarter inch overlaps on the shingles with adhesive.. Whatever glue is good with metal on metal I would think... So every few strips of shingles you'd have a thin wood strip spanning across under for support..
Thanks Patricia, we put lock latches on those since. So far the raccoons have not gotten past the premier electric fence, but I agree making things more secure in case the fence ever fails.
Chicken wire is great for keeping chickens in-it won’t do much for keeping predators out. Also: if you have your nesting boxes higher than your roosting bars the chickens will just use the nest to roost (and defecate). You need to switch those two around. Good luck!
Thanks Paulie, I guess we are just lucky because the hens never use the nests to roost, they rather be on the roosts and don't seem to care about the height. We use a premier one Intellishock 30 around the entire tractor, and have no predator problems. We use just a sing strand string wire around three times. Found it doesn't ground out like the mesh fence, and way easier to take down and put up. The hens go inside the coop and a chicken guard door keeps them safe as well.
The cost of pvc is crazy now thanks jb
Really appreciate that u acknowledge where u got the idea.
Great Idea with pickle buckets
Love the pickle bucket idea.
Been trying to figure out what I was going to do for egg boxes.
Already implemented the feeding tubes. Like your roofing system.
FYI about covering the ventilation.
If the temperature drops below freezing, then close for the night. Keeps the body heat in. Open the next day for airflow and the ammonia fumes to escape.
You can slam the inside of the cap with a sandpaper and all round the outside of the pipe coming up or you can go get one of those thread sections that glue onto the top has the plastic cap that screws on
I made this exact one about 23 years ago they work great
Very nice job. Just a few minor adjustments that were already mentioned by others here, but over all a very nice job 👍🏻.
thanks so much. I should really show my updates, but this tractor is still going strong.
Wheel at 16:40 love it - thank you!
This awesome. Whenever I do make one of these I hope to learn from this again.
Don't know if someone already suggested this, but you should install a pool noodle or something on the roof edge. Sure as rain it will cut someone in the head or somewhere you'd rather not have a cut on. Take it from someone with personal experience turning around and there it was, cutting into the upper bridge of my nose. Also had a steel side to a broiler coop and in stepping over it I tripped or something and needed 8 stiches on my kneecap. Not too fun. But your tractor is awesome, quite the handyman.
Great idea! I did end up crimping those over and putting gorilla tape on them. Thats still working
It seems like you may need more ventilation in the roosting/nesting area in the summer (unless you live somewhere with cold summers). Good-looking set-up if the plywood holds up. I like your levered wheels.
Dan really thought through the design of this tractor. Very impressive! One question, though. Why not move the axle toward the rear wall of the housing part so that it would only take one person to move it?
I tried to get the wheels to balance the entire tractor. I have not updated the video, but I move it by myself 90% of the time. Only when I have to go uphill do I need a helper (my wife). With the wheels the way they are I can just lift the front and its level and rolls pretty easy. I did replace the rope with a stainless steel cable since the sun broke the nylon rope down and it snapped
Interesting design, thanks for sharing. One thing you should consider is to use the black zip ties as the white ones are damaged easily with UV light.
Thanks! Good idea. I knew that was a weakness but didn't realize there are longer lasting zip ties. I figured I would slowly switch them over, over time. Sincerely, Dan
Black zippy ties are way better than the white ones, but stainless steel zippy ties would be best. They sell them on Amazon for around $13 for 100 of them, and they don't rust. ;-)
I look forward to seeing your updates.
2:30 Looking at this design I think you could have improved it and simplified it by using another one of those big base tubes as the top center ridge. If you drilled the big top center tube all the way through you could have done away with all the four way unions and gluing and passed the side tubes straight through, it would have also given a straight and strong top ridge... what do you think ?
I think you are right! I'm a pastry chef, not an architect or designer, so I was definitely no pro. Good idea. COuld have saved $
@@TrappersSNORR I wouldn't have thought of it without seeing yours first...
The only issue I see is where you have the nesting boxes. Those should be lower and the roots higher. Chickens like that better. They feel safer roosting higher at night.
Thanks Tania, I heard that too. I bet a rediesign could be done with the nexting boxes about half way up and the roosts at the top. I will say, these have worked fantastic, and I can't tell if the chickens do not like it. They lay consistently in the buckets and after nearly two years now maybe had 6 eggs on the ground inside. They are incredibly consistent hitting the bucket, and they wait in line and egg each other on to get one their favorite nest.
Nice design. Probably while moving the chicken you might want to keep the chickens locked in the coop so the don't sneak out the sides of the run
I finally figured out how to finess the coop around. Have not had a chicken get out in over a year. Its just the right hieght that they just walk along with me. Usually they want to walk because they are eager to get to the new grass, so its like hanging a carrot for a horse.
Very interesting project, thank you for showing your knowledge.
Thanks For Sharing...great ideas and will help me to build one that I can move on my own. I like the big window, do worry about frostbite, I'm constantly thinking insulation too.
Yeah its pretty cold in there, I did use vasiline on the hens with large combs. Going forward I won't keep any chickens with large floppy combs, just rose combs and very winter hardy hens. I hope my next flock will be 100% Wyandottes
Excellent job. You really thought about the most useful details.
Thank you very much! I made a new video reviewing this, but have not launched that yet. I have two years of experience now and learned a lot! Luckliy most of what I built is still working every day. Note a few changes - I reduced the nesting boxes to increase roosting space, I replaced the tires with flat free tires, I kept getting too many flats! Those hand truck tired just stink!
I use hog rings to stitch my chicken wire together, works great and you can get them pretty cheap.
Great tip!
That is what I used. works great and dewalt makes a set with a magazine and Tractor Supply sells them.
Excellent!
Thanks 👍
That is extremely cool, i sure wish i was talented in this way to be inclined to build things on my homestead instead of always having to hire someone to do the many projects that i need done, you did an awesome job my beautiful brother 😊
Start with a simple shelf and go from there. Before my husband left me, he drew plans so I could build the desk he had promised to build for me. You can do it!
I really enjoyed all the details as well as y u did things the way u did! Ty
Very creative 🇵🇸❤️🕊
Incredible work
A plastic protector should be added to the chicken boxes
To protect the chicken legs
Respect and love from Jerusalem, the capital of Palestine 🇵🇸❤️🕊🐓
This was an excellent video. Everything you want to know and base your plan off of is included. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I wish that i could hit 'like' on this video more than once lol this is sooooo cool
OHh thanks flock! LOL
What's the ballpark cost to build one of these awesome tractors? If you don't mind me asking? 😊🐓🐔🐣
I spent too much, probably $2000. But it was a personal hobby so I didn;t care, and its still working fantastic!
@@TrappersSNORR If you want FREE eggs, you gotta pay the price! That's farming for ya! Lol!
Awesome work. If you move the axle to the center of the Box (the heavy part) it will hold it up properly and it could be a one person job.
Thanks for the tip!
I didn't think the PVC would standup to be out in the sun.
Its very practical and useful.
Glad you think so! I was just telling my family how nice it is to just leave the chicken tractor in one location for winter right now and its working great. As soon as we have enough thaw we will shuffle it around to get to the next patch of ground, but its really no rush.
I’m curious how the nesting boxes are working out above the roost. Because if you think about it, chicken lay eggs on the ground and roost on the trees above.
Fantastic job!
You are kidding me on that Chicken tractor
Fantastic construction. It looks bombproof. Thanks for sharing some of your ideas.
my pleasure
Is it less expensive to use pvc instead of wood?
Good question. I don't really know. I used PVC because I wanted it to be very light for easy moving, plus long lasting. In the end I think I spent around $2000 on everything, which I probably could have just bought on LOL! But it was my covid labor of love building this and I would have gone crazy if I didn't have the project.
This is great! Thanks for the info! By the way, what is the name of the song that is playing on the 27:00 time mark? It is so good!
sorry, I'm so bad at replying here. Thats www.zinkandco.com/?v=9a0d701a3b2a
Great video great design. Problem ive had is sparrows eating all their food and my money ugh. I changed to 1/4 inch mesh wire instead chicken wire they cant get through. Another maybe tip instead wire electricity lay mesh around the sides predators cannot dig under
Hey Dave, Great idea! I have not had sparrow problems. I will admit I've gone to only using a 5 gallo DIY feeder. Its much more weather proof and does not spill as easily.
I like the design... but chicken wire will not keep predators out
Thanks Glenn you are right. I noted this as well in my plans and even bought hardware cloth to wrap the runs in. However I decided to run the risk of using chicken wire for the benefit of lighter weight and also the ease of manipulating it to the shape I needed. I thought as well about running hardware cloth around the sides even after using chicken wire just for added protection. I'm new at this, so I was nervous about this, especially when thinking about the time and cost to raise the chickens. Having a tractor also means you can't really dig in underground fence either, and layout fence on the ground, which is also effective, is not very practical for a tractor. Ultimately I decided to trust that the premier electric fence would do the job. So far it has. My area is loaded with predators. Especially Raccoons, Skunks, Opossums, Fox and Coyote. Snakes and rats are around too. We found some evidence that fox and coons tried to get in, but the fence worked. We are hyper sensitive about making sure the fence is on, and that it has a good charge. So far the sun has kept it in the green and since May we have not had to give it a charge on an outlet. I hope this helps in understanding why we used chicken wire. We are constantly adapting and I'll be putting out a new video soon with about 7 changes to this tractor.
@@TrappersSNORRthanks for your detailed response. I myself also use a chicken tractor during the day but put my chickens in a coop at night. I hope the electric fence works as intended. I have the same predators in my area. I also have bear,hawks and eagle's. The bear are the reason I keep my 30 laying hens inside a very solid coop at night. I have the same type of electric fencing to keep large predators at bay. You too will find out they start off as just chickens but soon become exactly like family pets. I move my tractor everyday because of the amount of hens I have. The biggest threat for chickens seems to be the raccoon . They are actually very smart and will keep trying until they get in. I have had them nearly unlock the front door of my coop. I had multiple locks so they didnt get in. On my tractor I have drop down side made of fencing to prevent animals from digging in. You will find yourself going to great lengths to protect your flock. If you have ticks in your area... and move your tractor often your tick problem will dispear and you will have awesome farm fresh eggs daily. Good luck in your adventure!
@@glenns8418 thanks for sharing in return. Your system sounds pretty good. I hope mine will keep working too, but now you've made me nervous LOL! I envision a family of raccoons drawing up some advanced invasion scheme, then one going over and just pushing the button to turn off my fence. I just loaded all of my video clips from the past several months of changes. I should be able to post it by Monday if not sooner.
I use cattle panels and 1/4 wire screen
Got to be very strong and hog panel to lay on ground outside
Good job!
Good design
Thanks TAJ, so far so good. Mainly I get comments that we are not good enough in predator protection, but sometimes that is the nature of a tractor. I noted a lot of changes in the description which have proven to help. We are getting 2 feet of snow today, so I'm definitely learning how this thing winters. The hens all tuck into the coop around 5pm and the Chicken Guard door shuts them in. We never have eggs on the ground and I have put a waterer inside the coop for these days when they just stay inside due to weather. The electric fence has protected them so far. We are getting 10 eggs a day.
How many Special Order 4 way fittings? Thank you.
Not bad. Other than the chicken wire, if the axle were just forward of the center of the coop, it would pick up nicely. It would be close to the center of gravity.
Yeah maybe a touch more forward would help, I was trying to keep it within the coop for a simple design. I am able to pull it by myself 90% of the time and I traded out for fflat free tires which really help!
Looks nice looks very nice
Hi😊 wonderful idea. Wat is the length, width and height of the coop and what is the with and length of the run, also the length of the pipe used for the top u's? 😁 What is the maximum amount of chickens for this size? I'm gonna build one just like it 😀
Gosh Heidi, Thats nice, to be honest I had NO IDEA I had so many comments on this. Just trying to catch up a bit. The coop is about 4 foot square. I had up to 14 chickens, but honestly I think 8-10 is a lot more comfortable for them . the run is 4 feet wide and 12 feet long I think. I added a second run that is super easy to move by itself and I connect it to the first run. Will have to do a follow up vid
Moisture in the coop from not enough ventilation can be deadly to your flock especially in the cold winter.
Dan, what is the song you play at the end of your video. Your video was great, but that song and the lyrics caught my attention.
Thanks Doug, Thats the www.zinkandco.com/?v=9a0d701a3b2a
You need to write about 100 page book to make that chicken tractor. And then it takes two people to move it
I’m building one of these, but I’m not sure why you would screw the pvc, the glue bonds the plastic together like a weld. If you try to pull a joint apart it will break anywhere other than where it is glued, the glued joint becomes the strongest part.
Over time the glue will separate. Better to put a 1" screw that way you screw both sides at once.
@@spiritwings4592 Maybe we have different glue in Australia, plumbing is glued, never leaks. The glue we have bonds the 2 together so it’s like a weld the 2 plastics become one. What do your plumbers use?
Pretty much what the others said below, its overkill, but now after two years, with hard winters, its still together
@@TrappersSNORR i tow mine around with the mower, the strongest part of the whole coop are the joins, they are bonded together like a weld. th-cam.com/video/CdjU1OB0wlg/w-d-xo.html
You should've used the black UV light ones because those are just gonna deteriorate the white just deteriorates in the sun another thing is on the bottom if you were to come out longer put a 4 way route to T route there at the corner and then come up with a 45 or even a 30ﾟ or 20ﾟ or something I aint swoop It will pull around easier because you got that swoop that will slide across the grass
Weldon Excellent
Great Job & Great Design
Thank you. As you probably saw, this is a copy of The Lewis Family Farm Ultimate PVC Chicken tractor. So I take no credit. but I did add a lot of small changes to make it adapt to our needs. I definitely didn't want open bowl feeding and since this video I put a run extension on which is super easy to move but gives the chickens double the run space. See all changes in the description. Mainly I get comments that we are not predator safe, but so far so good with the electric fence and the hens are not inside chicken wire only at night, just during the day. I'll be completely honest here if we loose the battle with the predators. Its a balance of light weight and mobility, with durability against predators and mainly the Premier electric fence is the main protection.
Hola, me ayudas con las dimensiones o un plano por favor, saludos
Hi, I am thinking, why don't you make it in to 2 pieces? 1 the pasture area sperate and resting room sperate. By this way one person can move easily.
I'd been thinking the same - but many people have a shorter one and move it twice a day... also, I would have foot wide hardware cloth flaps to let down when we stop to keep critters from digging under the fence - it would be one more thing to set up when you stop.
Good idea. I have not updated, but I actually do this now with a run extension.
Do you send instructions for your chicken tractions
I'm so sorry, I don;t really have instructions.
If you move the wheels and center them on the frame of the chicken house it should be able to be moved by one person again..
Good Idea! I now do move it myself. I found out if I don't have the water hanging on there its much easier. Sometimes my wife helps with a hand truck under the back, but only if uphill.
thank you
You're welcome
FYI dogs can tear through chicken wire... Mom lost chickens after ....we had to go with hog wire on the outside over the chicken wire....good luck.
Thanks Pat, thats a good idea on the hog wire, we will definitely look into that. I'll copy our reason for using chicken wire from a previous comment here. Also I happy admit we are beginners and always open to ideas and improvements. I spent 6 hours creating and update video last week and at the last minute my hard drive failed and I lost the entire project. Oh well, not life or death, but pretty darn frustration. I will add notes on the changes above and hope to work that video again when I have time. Until then the only time our chickens are only protected by chicken wire is 5am to 5pm, when the chicken guard door opens, at night they are in the coop which has no chicken wire. We realize the run is still an issue in daytime hours but the electric fence has already shocked cats and dogs that we have witnesses (our own dog LOL!). We still could have an issue, but so far so good on this set up. Here is my previous response to Glenn on chicken wire - - you are right. I noted this as well in my plans and even bought hardware cloth to wrap the runs in. However I decided to run the risk of using chicken wire for the benefit of lighter weight and also the ease of manipulating it to the shape I needed. I thought as well about running hardware cloth around the sides even after using chicken wire just for added protection. I'm new at this, so I was nervous about this, especially when thinking about the time and cost to raise the chickens. Having a tractor also means you can't really dig in underground fence either, and layout fence on the ground, which is also effective, is not very practical for a tractor. Ultimately I decided to trust that the premier electric fence would do the job. So far it has. My area is loaded with predators. Especially Raccoons, Skunks, Opossums, Fox and Coyote. Snakes and rats are around too. We found some evidence that fox and coons tried to get in, but the fence worked. We are hyper sensitive about making sure the fence is on, and that it has a good charge. So far the sun has kept it in the green and since May we have not had to give it a charge on an outlet. I hope this helps in understanding why we used chicken wire. We are constantly adapting and I'll be putting out a new video soon with about 7 changes to this tractor
How much did it cost to build and how long did it take?
I think it cost around $2000, I know thats too much, but it was a hobby and I was not looking to go cheap. I think it took me about a 6 weeks, mostly weekends.
Link to design u used for coop? If there’s one
So sorry, I don't have a design, but like I said in the video, I copied this one. th-cam.com/video/ZTfgmeId7mM/w-d-xo.html but he may not have to deal with snow. You can't have the door on the ground like on his tractor if you get heavy snow. Mine has the high door, and the push bar doubles as a ramp landing.
Boy, have you made this complicated. - the ultimate COVID Lockdown occupation. The joint section durability from the run to the Coop-housing looks pretty dicey to me. I'd like to see the coop review in a year's time. Also, the nesting boxes have to be lower down, according to all the advice I've looked at. There are various means of covering the nest boxes to prevent the hens from sitiing on them and pooping all over the place. Good luck.
Female coupling with a screw in plug will work well for the top of the feeder, that’s what I used.
super, thanks
I’m having a difficult time trying to put the coop together. Is there anyway I can email you?
Well I'm terrible at replies, so I guess after 9 months you probably figured it out or gave up. I'd rather not put email here and build my spam up. I do hope it worked out
What size is your gray pipe do you electrical conduit pipe thank you
Hi Larry, Yes we used electrical conduit since we understand it has sun protection compared to the plumbing PVC. I used 2 inch X 10 foot conduit for the coop. I got the three way joints at Home Depot or Lowes but I had to get the four ways at pvcfittingsonline.com . I hope this helps
Nice
Your nesting boxes are to high and the chickens are going to roost at night in them. The roosting pole need to be higher than the boxes.
Hi Peter, Thanks! I thought that might be true as well, but actually the chickens do not roost in the nesting buckets, they rather be on the roosts and never go in the buckets to roost. Maybe its just these hens, but no problems so far.
Strap them down during storms, mine blew across the pasture and broke.
J clamps would be a lot easier and cheaper than the S hooks.
Just so you know, small round branches are not good for chickens to roost on. Their feet are designed for more flat surfaces.
Thanks Jackie. I can see that. I also learned that they need to be able to rest their breast bone on the roost. They seem pretty happy and sleep on these just fine, but I'll keep an eye on them. I have a ring camera on solar in the coop now so I can check on them whenever I like. Its a hoot watching them get ready for bed!
Because that’s how tree branches are shaped in nature?
nice, but all that effort, and its still a 2 person job to move it. it might be over-designed and too heavy.
the total cost of this CT has got to be outta range fer the average folks. PVC ain't cheap, neither is that black iron. So...do tell the total cost of this CT please.
To me your door is too sticking out too far when it's down from the hutch to reach into the eggs if you just had him come to the top of the bucket and then put another piece of Why would just above the buckets then that way you're not trying to reach way out there to get your eggs and accidentally drop them because you bump your arm on your board
That's Really Cool, But The SUN Will Make Your Zip Ties
Brittle & Break, I Would Get A Role Of Baling Wire & Cut Them About 4 inches Long & Just Twist it ???🙄
Why would you put it right in front of the door come on
Looks very heavy to move
TOO MUCH $$$$$ to build...but it is nice.
You're right. It was more of a hobby and the money saving was not a priority for me. But having used it for nearly two years now I do appreciate its LONG lasting and I know how to fix anything on it.
JERSEY: “The South has always said, “THE SOUTH IS GONNA DO IT AGAIN..!” They’re going to Build it Back Better!!
My inner mad scientist sees a pin idea.. 20x20 feet ...2 inch or 1.5 inch pvc frame.. 2 feet in height .. Instead of standard corrugated roof panels cut out coke cans and use as roofing shingles...My concept is 400 square feet pin that weighs less than 200 pounds roughly..
Cool, I wonder if you mean "pen". I like the coke can shingles, I'd probably paint them if the aesthetics were an issue. sounds like your idea is a 20X20 run. I can appreciate that, especially if it is light and easy to move. Mine currently has a run extension on it, basically I copied the current run and just match it up. Its super easy to slide away when I move the tractor and the hens like the extra space. So far so good. This winter has been heavy here so we have not moved anything in about a month, but the birds seem fine and are still laying about 7 eggs a day on average. I keep throwing wood shavings into the coup via the side doors just to keep it dry and to cover the waste.
@@TrappersSNORR painting is a great idea..yeah if my napkin math is right even with a small 10x12 pen... with standard corrugated aluminium sheets thats over 120 pounds of roofing weight.. With coke cans you'd use around 60 cans and weight is maybe 2 ta 3 pounds total so your cutting the roof weight almost completely to where its possible to move a very large pen with ease.. if anchoring is needed from predators or wind.. My idea is U shaped steel wire or rebar anchoring pins sized to the pipe diameter and tapped in right over each corner..Thanks for painting roof idea will use that..
@@neal0071234able Cool! Now just to find somebody who likes to drink Coke LOL!
@j smith can you explain this coke can roofing concept a bit more. How are they cut? How are they attached and to what medium? Thanks
@@CDESONE scissors works usually..small surgical snips probably would be best.. Exacto knife maybe?.. Dremel tool with the right cutter probably would work good.. As far as how you attach.. wood lattice panels I think would work .. long thin wood strips is the lightest under framing I could imagine so far for the shingles .. a few north south and east west strips of wood spanning the top of pen with perhaps a tarp layered under that maybe .. on top of thin wood strips you would lay a layer of shingle strips in a row across attached to wood strips .. maybe quarter inch overlaps on the shingles with adhesive.. Whatever glue is good with metal on metal I would think... So every few strips of shingles you'd have a thin wood strip spanning across under for support..
Those hinges won't keep your birds safe! If a child can flip it open a raccoon surely can.
Thanks Patricia, we put lock latches on those since. So far the raccoons have not gotten past the premier electric fence, but I agree making things more secure in case the fence ever fails.
I just watched a video of a 10 yr old girl who built a better one. lol
Thats great! Kids are awesome!
Is there a point to your stupid comment. Why you watching videos with little girls??? Hhhmmm
Far from the best iy doesn't work