@@JOSEFIRMINO2007 2nd option is shut off from tach signal. LMC sells a fuel pump control module with this description: With the Fuel Pump Control Module, when the key is turned, the fuel pump turns on to prime the system in a three-second cycle, just like modern vehicles. Then the module uses the tach signal so the pump only runs when engine is running,
Great idea on video, if I add an electric fuel pump to my slant six, I will do it like your set up. I agree, nothing wrong with mechanical fuel pump, but if engine sits for more than a week, it takes a lot of starter motor cranking to finally fire the engine off. I like the idea of setting up a push button in the dash to prime the carb (as needed) for a more efficient start after a week plus of sitting.
That is a genius life hack to grab power from the cig lighter, I never thought of that. I need to install a pump like this in my 86 AMC Eagle, it's hard to start after it's been sitting.
I did the same with my 81 class c Ford 460..It already had the same style pump in it..I tried a couple small electric pumps and never really ran right..After the Facet change and some line priming she fires up on key turn now..Thanks for your video as it convinced me that this is the pump for long wheel based vehicles..
Wow! I have owned my 1968 Ford Econoline for 35 years now and have been wanting to the the exact same thing. This video is so helpful. Thank you for the awesome content!
Excellent solution. I have a 1948 Chrysler and the mechanic put alligator clips under the hood as a fuel primer so I have to raise the hood to prime the pump after a month of storage. Your solution is very smart. Thanks for the video. I also appreciate the safety advise in the event of an accident. I will forward this video to my NEW mechanic.
Never had a problem with a mechanical fuel pump; unless it broke with a couple hundred thousand miles on it. I would use your system if I had troubles with my mechanical fuel pump(s) on my vehicles, mainly a 1974 Ford 100. Thank you for this information in why and how to set it up.
we are doing this on our old willys jeep...it has the same problem after sitting a few days and it also vapor locks all the time in hot weather and pushing the gas through the blockage with an electric pump will get it running again...the electric pump can also act as a backup in case the mechanical pump fails out on the trail...if you are going to use it this way, make sure to carry a spare length of rubber fuel line in case you have to bypass a leaking mechanical pump.
I got a 96 Toyota Tacoma the fuel pump keeps going out in the tank so can I put a frame mounted electric fuel pump on besides putting one in the tank makes it so much easier to replace
Sorry, not really familiar with your set up. However, newer vehicles with fuel injection have a return line going to tank. Also, with the higher pressure required, placing the pump in the tank provides cooling for the pump.
+12 volt source goes to momentary on switch. from momentary on switch to the fuel pump. Pressing the momentary on switch activates the fuel pump for as long as the switch button is held down.
I want to do this to my quadrajet on my c10 but I'm concerned about gas in crankcase you mentioned.... First, if I do it the way you showed is that still a worry? If so, and I decide to bypass the mechanical fuel pump how do I seal it off? Or do I remove it and cap the hole?
Fuel in crankcase is only a concern if diaphragm in mechanical pump is faulty. Since electric pump is only used pre-start to fill float bowl should not be a problem as long as engine was running ok at last shut down. If you do bypass the mechanical pump and use an electric pump all the time you should block off the mechanical pump and not run through it. If you google fuel pump block off plate you will find suppliers of plates to cover the hole where the mechanical pump goes. Also, if you do run the electric pump all the time, you should get a fuel pump control kit that hooks up to the tach and only allows the pump to run while the engine is running, except for first 3 seconds for start up. I think there may also be control modules that run off of oil pressure if you do not have a tach.
Thanks Sr.do you know what kind of filter or screen is on your tank to prevent debris from entering the fuel lines going to the carb.?? And how often this should be clean???
The fuel pump that I use has a removable filter on the inlet as an integral part of the pump. I suspect it does not have to be cleaned unless there are fuel flow issues. Open to comments on the subject by others
@@ron12april thank you for your quick response,i referring to inside the fuel tank,I think it should be some sort of screen from the initial fuel "pick-up”.
You mentioned it was open flow. So would that mean the pump in the fuel tank can pump fuel through the electric full pump and the lines to the carb but still use the electric pump for priming the shut it off? I was looking to get rid of the mechanical fuel pump because I converted to a Weber carburetor which can't handle to psi that the mechanical pump puts out?
Old trucks like mine do not have a pump in the fuel tank. Only the mechanical and the electric that I added. Yes, the electric that I added is a flow through. It allows fuel to flow through it when it is not operating.
You would need a break in the insulated wire shorting out in the same location as a break in the fuel line for there to be a potential issue. Double jeopardy. Certainly no higher risk than the electrical connection to fuel gauge sending unit or electric pump regardless of the wire routing.
Did you leave the mechanical pump in place so the electric pump primes the mechanical thru to the carb when you push the button after you stop using the button it’s dead and the mechanical pump sucks the petrol thru to the carb is that right thanks rose
Electric fills the carb float bowl so there is fuel for the engine to start. Fuel line is full so when engine starts the mechanical works as supposed to. Electrical no longer needed. Stops when releasing button.
I have put three mecanical pumps on my 84 GMC van sb 350 engine in the last 4 years. If it goes out again I going to install an electric Pump. The last one I just bought had casting marks of 2016 on the body. I think some of the new ones you buy for these classic vehicles may have been sitting on a shelf somewhere for 5 or six years. That can't be good. Does anyone know if they can rot from sitting around for years new in the bow? Mike
Don't see why not. Be sure to install the electric pump after the 3 port switch. That is, between the 3 port switch and the mechanical fuel pump. That way the electric pump will always have fuel available to pump up to the float bowl.
Hey can help for vapor lock problem.....will this work .....i will make a new line for the electric pump at the back.....i just add a T fitting(T fitting at the original line) and before the pump i add a check valve.....from the pump i make a straight line to the carburetor and add T fitting and add check valve.....so its a one way line without return line.....will its work? Its just for start the car then i turn it off.....
Not sure about the T fittings and check valves. Sounds like you are by passing the mechanical pump. The electric pump located below and close to the fuel tank should avoid vapor lock. However, if you are bypassing the mechanical pump you haven't purged the vapor from the line going to the mechanical pump. The mechanical pump has to pull rather than push from the fuel tank. If the temperature in the line is hot enough the pull will cause vapor to form. Bottom line, better for electric pump to push through the mechanical pump rather than bypass it.
@@ron12april but if i just put the electic pump at the tank to pump to the mechanical pump ..... didn't the carb still get the hot gasoline gas? Btw from my knowledge i use check valve so the fuel from the tank to the electric pump and to the carb dont flow backwards when i turn off the electric pump.....like i said i dont have return line....maybe the carb will float a little.
@@ron12april when i think again maybe yours will work....but i need to turn on the electric pump a little longer so the hot gasoline go back to the tank....and fresh gasoline go to the carb....right?
Uhhhh this carb stuff hurt my brain 😂....btw i have a water auto choke.....will this also make the carb super hot? My water temp is always 80° ...and some tell me to add gap at the engine and ac pump....but didn't the ac pump will stop working if its not touching the camshaft?
Black wire is for +12 volts. Negative is connected through chassis. In my case, I found the + 12 from the wire going to the cigarette lighter and ran a wire from it to a new momentary on switch that I added, and from the switch to the black wire of the pump. The pump was bolted to the frame near the fuel tank providing the negative. (Pretty much all cars these days are negative ground with the Negative side of battery connected to the frame). Closing the momentary switch (with ignition switch on) completes the circuit providing 12 volts to the pump. From the + side of battery, through cigarette lighter fuse, through ignition switch, through momentary on switch, to the black wire of pump, through pump, and back to Negative side of battery through the car's frame. Releasing the momentary on switch breaks the circuit stopping the pump.
Hello Ron, evethought electric pump is used not much, is there possibility of damage the mechanical pump diaphragm in the long run ?. Thanks for answering. BR
Hey Ron, I kinda like this. Got me thinking? So what if I installed exactly like you did. Then instead of a momentary switch I installed a off/on/on momentary? So, for normal operation you would push the toggle arm to momentary, then release which defaults back to off and the mechanical pump takes over(again just like ypurs), However, IF, your mechanical pump ever fails(which life says it will sooner or later), one could switch the toggle to on which would stay as it is not spring loaded. Now the elect pump takes over thus not leaving you stranded??? Would this work or would it push to much fuel into the bowl and flood? As long as the elect fuel pump has the auto shut off feature one could even put a inline psi reducer after the pump to control the flow. Example: GM235cu carb requires 2-4 psi to carb. What's your thoughts? Thanks for the tutorial.
I actually had a mechanical pump go bad. The electric pump saved the day. I pushed the momentary pump until things smoothed out and then let go. When the engine started starving, I did it again. Got me home without any issues. Since the failure could be a torn membrane allowing fuel into the crankcase, I would not continue driving in this fashion very long. Therefore, your suggestion will work, but seems like a bit of overkill. The Faucet pump I use has a max pressure of 5.5 psi. I don't think the very slight overpressure will do any harm (5.5 vs 4).
Hey rob, so i was looking for videos on converting mechanical pumps to electric. Good detailed video, but if i can offer one piece of advice. Consider a rubber grommet or something to protect the hot wire going through that frame channel. Youre risking a short if that wire gets a rub through to the metal.
Great video I'm wanting to do this a 4 cillinder motorcycle my only concern is this could over fill the float bowls does the pump slow down automatically when pressured up
Thank you for your reply do you know if in any way if I could fitt a in line fuel pressure sensor near the carb inlet to automatically switch the fuel pump on and off
@@paulgee5068 sounds pretty complicated to me. I am a great believer in keep it simple. You only need to fill the flat bowl for starting and a simple momentary on switch does the job very nicely.
Also, you state this is for a motorcycle. All the motorcycle I am familiar with have the fuel tank above the carbs and gravity feed fuel to the carbs. In that case there is no need for a pump - even for starting.
I just added a Edelbrock low psi,2-3.5 pump just for priming as you did,works great as no more long cranks! However in your video it sounds like your pump stops pumping before you released the button switch,as to indicate the system is fuel,then you you released the button.Mine,seems to keep running until I release the momentary switch,as I have no leaks,thought wouldself stop due to psi met. Unless I couldn't hear yours still running, is it normal for the pump to keep running while holding the switch in the on switch continues? Thought it would stop as well when it met it's psi? Thanks,just happy to have it fire up quick now.
@@ron12april Ok,thought it seemed to stop before you released the button. Thought mine would do the same but I guess it's not setup to stop once the system is full. Appreciate the reply!
@@ron12april Yeah mine from the beginning never stops but only turn it on just fir for a bit anyway and solves my starting issues so I'm happy with it. Thanks for all you're input.
Interestingly, I tried the next day with full float bowl. Electric pump ran for only few seconds and then did shut off by itself. In any case running for 1 minute if it doesn't shut off seems to be plenty.
As a newbie, the electric pump flows fuel through the mechanical pump bypassing it to the carburetor or is it priming the mechanical pump?I have a flathead 6 cylinder and if it sits for a week,it takes some time to get fuel up to carburetor. Does this work on all mechanical fuel pumps? Thanks for the video.
The reason it takes some time to get the engine to start is the float bowl runs dry. Without the electric fuel pump the engine has to turn over operating the mechanical pump until fuel gets up to the carb. The electric fuel pump delivers fuel to the carb and fills the float bowl before ever trying to start the engine. That way there is fuel available for the engine to start as soon as you turn the key. Should work with all mechanical fuel pumps feeding carbs.
i changed my classics to electric fuel pump with mechanicalstill installed, i see no difference really if it sits a while , i still have to pump the gas pedal, it doesnt crank right up as you would think, maybe i waisted my time, installed on my 72 c-10 pickup and 70 buick shylark convertible.
Once the electric fuel pump fills the float bowl you should not have to crank very long if at all. You will still need to pump the gas pedal a few times so the accelerator pump squirts some fuel into the intake manifold and if you have a manual choke you will still need to use it. When I use the electric pump to fill the float bowl, then pump the gas pedal 3 times, and then pull the choke out, it fires right up even after sitting for weeks on end.
Great video, thanks! I was thinking... could you just plug the electric pump directly into the lighter button as you used the lighter socket power anyway and hold down the lighter button to start the pump?
The short answer is no. Vapor lock occurs when gasoline vapor prevents the flow of liquid gasoline. Vapor forms when engine or exhaust heat causes boiling of the liquid gasoline in the fuel line or carburetor. The installation I show is for filling the float bowl of a vehicle that has been sitting for a while and is therefore cold. (No source of heat to vaporize the fuel). Vacuum caused by the pump pulling against too much pressure drop in the fuel line could also cause some vapor to form. Therefore, locating the pump near the fuel tank, and low is best.
@@msloquet On further reflection, an electric pump could possibly overcome vapor lock. I now assume that your question refers to trouble starting a hot engine. When first starting the engine, the mechanical pump turns slowly and therefore moves fuel much slower than when running. The slow-moving fluid could warm up and not overcome vapor lock. Further, the mechanical pump located on the engine and a distance from the fuel tank could cause vaporization in the line due to the negative pressure created by the pump pulling instead of pushing. An electric pump located near the fuel tank would move cold fuel from the tank at full rate and at higher pressure (pushing instead of pulling). So yes, an electric fuel pump could help with vapor lock.
Hey sir. 85 f150 here. Basically the path you took is to prime your fuel system by running the electric pump to the mechanical, and the mechanical then does all the work as it did before, am I understanding correctly? Also, how does the electrical pump know to stop? If I was to get a low pressure pump like that, will it stop automatically like yours does? Does your carb have a return? Please help 😅
@@ron12april oh I gotcha! I thought it stopped on its own when pressure built and then you released the button. Thank you for the clarification! Cheers!
So did you run the fuel line parallel to the mechanical pump? I did what you did in this video but just have the one fuel line going from electric pump into mechanical pump and into carb. I think fuel is just stopping at mechanical pump because it doesn’t fill the bowl any quicker. Thanks!
My fuel line is same as what you describe. From electric fuel pump into mechanical fuel pump. The mechanical fuel pump allows fuel to flow through. With electric, flow fuel without cranking engine. Once carb float bowl is full should start easy.
@@ron12april okay great. Maybe I am over filling it and flooding it. I will pull line off carb and visually check if the electric pump is doing its job. Thanks for the video!
hi ron does the electric fuel pump help with vapor lock ..i was told to run an electric fuel pump and keep the mechanical pump same as you have and use it to prime carb and to turn it on if vapor lock is starting to happen ....no i do not have a return line , i have no fitting on tank to put a return line and i dont wish to start drilling tank or filler hose
Yes. If you locate the electric pump close to the gas tank as I did, there will be less pulling and more pushing. Keeping the electric pump flooded should eliminate vapor lock while trying to start. Once the engine is running and there is a constant flow of gasoline you should not experience vapor lock with the mechanical fuel pump. If you have fuel delivery problems while running it is most likely due to a plugged fuel filter or faulty mechanical pump. I would start by changing the fuel filter as the easiest, cheapest and good practice.
@@ron12april thank you , also what if i add a return line would i still need the electric pump assist ...which is better the electric pump or the return line ..if i had a choice of 1 which one should i choose
I am out of my depth here. As I understand it, diesel engines inject fuel directly into the cylinder after compression, and therefore the pump operates at a much higher pressure. I don't think there is a float bowl as in IC engines with carburetors. Diesel fuel has a lower vapor pressure than gasoline so vapor lock should be less of a problem. I had a car with a diesel engine once. The only problem starting was waiting for the glow plug to warm things up - particularly in cold weather. In fact, in cold climates some folks will add a little gasoline to the diesel fuel so the gasoline vapors help the starting process. In VERY cold climates, truckers will often leave the truck running continuously rather than deal with starting problems.
12 volt positive is required to power the pump (negative through ground), and with this installation through a momentary on switch so it doesn't stay on. Better if fused. That is why I chose to piggy back the cigarette lighter socket. You could go directly to the battery positive terminal from the momentary switch through an in line fuse.
Great video, Ron. did you just install the electric pump in the line between the tank and the mechanical pump? or “T” in the fuel line, from the electric pump, between the carb and mechanical pump?
the pump is between the tank and mechanical pump, as close to the tank as possible. One line, no Tee's. Therefore, it is important that the electric pump will allow flow through when not on.
If you are referring to the fuel pump (not water pump) it is most likely inside the fuel tank. This is where modern vehicles with fuel injection have the pump located.
In my experience running quadragets, (if you have one), it's more likely your float bows is leaking from the drilling plugs than the fuel drying up. They are known for this problem.....Just sayin' Mike
My carb is single barrel. Nonetheless issue could be leaking or drying. In any case the electric fuel pump works great and this work around is probably easier than fixing the root cause.
If any vehicle is stubborn to start after sitting a while, just spray some starting fluid in the carburetor intake, should fire right up. Just an option other than installing an E Pump.
Also, to minimize noise from the pump it's a good idea to rubber-mount the pumps mounting bracket to the frame or whereever you are mounting it. Some E pumps have a sleeve mount, you can wrap that in bicycle innertube and will greatly minimize noise from the pump - if the sleeve doesn't already have rubber.
So how did you get the new fuel hose onto the tank barb, which wasn't shown, or do you just get wet for alittle bit and wouldn't it be bit safer to fasten the hot electric line to the brake line instead?
Get everything lined up and stay out the way. There is some fuel that comes out while you make the switch, but if you plan for it you should not get wet. Running the wire on the brake line works, but I do not think strapping it to the fuel line is unsafe. You would need both torn insulation to potentially create a spark, and a leak in the fuel line in the same location to create an unsafe condition. Even then, running the wire along the brake line still has it in close proximity to the fuel line.
Aircraftspruce.com - I checked. They still carry the same model. Now there is an "E" at the end. 476087E. Here is the page with the Facet "Gold-Flo Interrupter" fuel pumps: www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetgoldflo.php
I have the exact problem with my 390 after sitting for several days. Thank you for taking the time to do this video!!
Happy you found it useful
Perfect, simple, slow, clear, no stupid music 👍
Thanks!
Thanks for describing the different wiring options. I'll go with just using it to prime like you did.
continues to work great. Just as described in the video
@@ron12aprilSorry,; "oil pressure switch or (?)..." I lost the 2nd option...🤔 . Beforehand, thanks for you help.
@@JOSEFIRMINO2007 2nd option is shut off from tach signal. LMC sells a fuel pump control module with this description:
With the Fuel Pump Control Module, when the key is turned, the fuel pump turns on to prime the system in a three-second cycle, just like modern vehicles. Then the module uses the tach signal so the pump only runs when engine is running,
@@ron12april Thank you!!!🙂
Gran video !!! Lo hice como lo dices en el video y trabaja excelente, asi el carro lleve 2 semanas sin encender
Great idea on video, if I add an electric fuel pump to my slant six, I will do it like your set up. I agree, nothing wrong with mechanical fuel pump, but if engine sits for more than a week, it takes a lot of starter motor cranking to finally fire the engine off. I like the idea of setting up a push button in the dash to prime the carb (as needed) for a more efficient start after a week plus of sitting.
Happy you found the video useful
That is a genius life hack to grab power from the cig lighter, I never thought of that. I need to install a pump like this in my 86 AMC Eagle, it's hard to start after it's been sitting.
Should work. It works for me!
I'm going to do this exact same thing to my 1950 Plymouth. I'll hide the button just under the dash. Great video!
Thanks for the feed back
I did the same with my 81 class c Ford 460..It already had the same style pump in it..I tried a couple small electric pumps and never really ran right..After the Facet change and some line priming she fires up on key turn now..Thanks for your video as it convinced me that this is the pump for long wheel based vehicles..
Happy to hear it worked out
For sure. My truck did not have an internal pump. Just gravity feed.
Wow! I have owned my 1968 Ford Econoline for 35 years now and have been wanting to the the exact same thing. This video is so helpful. Thank you for the awesome content!
Glad it was helpful!
You are welcome
Wow!!! Thanks for a very descriptive video Sir. I have a Corvette that takes at least 20 kicks to start. This help greatly
Thanks for the feedback
@@ron12april Thank you for posting this is a time saver
Excellent solution. I have a 1948 Chrysler and the mechanic put alligator clips under the hood as a fuel primer so I have to raise the hood to prime the pump after a month of storage. Your solution is very smart. Thanks for the video. I also appreciate the safety advise in the event of an accident. I will forward this video to my NEW mechanic.
Thanks for the feedback. Happy it helped
Would like to have seen you doing the wiring but really enjoyed
Beautiful work, tons of common senses. My RV set for over a year now, refuse to start, seems fuel issue. ll figure out what went wrong....
Great job. I just installed one on my 66 C10.
Nice 👍
Never had a problem with a mechanical fuel pump; unless it broke with a couple hundred thousand miles on it. I would use your system if I had troubles with my mechanical fuel pump(s) on my vehicles, mainly a 1974 Ford 100. Thank you for this information in why and how to set it up.
you're a bloody genius thanks for sharing my friend it's save my butt in my boat
Happy it helped
we are doing this on our old willys jeep...it has the same problem after sitting a few days and it also vapor locks all the time in hot weather and pushing the gas through the blockage with an electric pump will get it running again...the electric pump can also act as a backup in case the mechanical pump fails out on the trail...if you are going to use it this way, make sure to carry a spare length of rubber fuel line in case you have to bypass a leaking mechanical pump.
Good idea
Good stuff. Personally I probably wouldn't have drilled a hole there, I would have "hid" the button just under the dash for aesthetics.
To each their own. "Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder"
Love the trump doll
me too! Goes with the fuzzy dice
Thanks! Helped me solve the same problem on my 54 Buick!
Happy you found the video useful
I got a 96 Toyota Tacoma the fuel pump keeps going out in the tank so can I put a frame mounted electric fuel pump on besides putting one in the tank makes it so much easier to replace
Sorry, not really familiar with your set up. However, newer vehicles with fuel injection have a return line going to tank. Also, with the higher pressure required, placing the pump in the tank provides cooling for the pump.
So the positive goes to the ignition switch or straight to a monetary switch?
+12 volt source goes to momentary on switch. from momentary on switch to the fuel pump. Pressing the momentary on switch activates the fuel pump for as long as the switch button is held down.
I want to do this to my quadrajet on my c10 but I'm concerned about gas in crankcase you mentioned....
First, if I do it the way you showed is that still a worry?
If so, and I decide to bypass the mechanical fuel pump how do I seal it off? Or do I remove it and cap the hole?
Fuel in crankcase is only a concern if diaphragm in mechanical pump is faulty. Since electric pump is only used pre-start to fill float bowl should not be a problem as long as engine was running ok at last shut down.
If you do bypass the mechanical pump and use an electric pump all the time you should block off the mechanical pump and not run through it. If you google fuel pump block off plate you will find suppliers of plates to cover the hole where the mechanical pump goes.
Also, if you do run the electric pump all the time, you should get a fuel pump control kit that hooks up to the tach and only allows the pump to run while the engine is running, except for first 3 seconds for start up. I think there may also be control modules that run off of oil pressure if you do not have a tach.
Hi , Thank you for your perfect information , 🙏 can i find inside spare part about this model fule pumpe ?
I believe the only part that is available is the internal fuel filter. Facet fuel filter part 42370
@@ron12april Hi , Thank you, you are right in my country market just available inside filter about this model 🤔🙏🌸
I have a carbureted aoutboard an I'm thinkig about instaling one of these pumps on the boat to prime it.
.Can i do this on a 93 chevy c 1500 2 wheel drive truck? I would do it like u did. tbi system
If it uses a carburetor (not fuel injection) and pump is used to only fill float bowl after sitting a while should work on any vehicle
Thanks Sr.do you know what kind of filter or screen is on your tank to prevent debris from entering the fuel lines going to the carb.?? And how often this should be clean???
The fuel pump that I use has a removable filter on the inlet as an integral part of the pump. I suspect it does not have to be cleaned unless there are fuel flow issues. Open to comments on the subject by others
@@ron12april thank you for your quick response,i referring to inside the fuel tank,I think it should be some sort of screen from the initial fuel "pick-up”.
I have no idea what the inside of the fuel tank looks like. I have no intention of trying to go inside unless there is evidence of a problem.
thanks for the video this is exactly what I want to do to my 75 ford high boy
I have a 76 ford highboy too with the same issues. I have a 390 what do you have?
Does this set up work if you have return line?
I would need to know more about the system before I could respond
You mentioned it was open flow. So would that mean the pump in the fuel tank can pump fuel through the electric full pump and the lines to the carb but still use the electric pump for priming the shut it off? I was looking to get rid of the mechanical fuel pump because I converted to a Weber carburetor which can't handle to psi that the mechanical pump puts out?
Old trucks like mine do not have a pump in the fuel tank. Only the mechanical and the electric that I added. Yes, the electric that I added is a flow through. It allows fuel to flow through it when it is not operating.
Does the mechanical pump block the flow of the electric one?
No. Fuel flows through
do you reacon it’s a smart idea off haveing an live electrics so close to fuel line 🔥
You would need a break in the insulated wire shorting out in the same location as a break in the fuel line for there to be a potential issue. Double jeopardy. Certainly no higher risk than the electrical connection to fuel gauge sending unit or electric pump regardless of the wire routing.
Did you leave the mechanical pump in place so the electric pump primes the mechanical thru to the carb when you push the button after you stop using the button it’s dead and the mechanical pump sucks the petrol thru to the carb is that right thanks rose
Electric fills the carb float bowl so there is fuel for the engine to start.
Fuel line is full so when engine starts the mechanical works as supposed to. Electrical no longer needed. Stops when releasing button.
@@ron12april very clever I have the same problem sitting for a while hard to start thanks so much. Rose
I have put three mecanical pumps on my 84 GMC van sb 350 engine in the last 4 years. If it goes out again I going to install an electric Pump. The last one I just bought had casting marks of 2016 on the body. I think some of the new ones you buy for these classic vehicles may have been sitting on a shelf somewhere for 5 or six years. That can't be good. Does anyone know if they can rot from sitting around for years new in the bow? Mike
I have a 75 c10 mechanical fuel pump with dual tanks and have the 3 port switch valve. Will this set up work with what I have?
Don't see why not. Be sure to install the electric pump after the 3 port switch. That is, between the 3 port switch and the mechanical fuel pump. That way the electric pump will always have fuel available to pump up to the float bowl.
Well done! Enjoyed your video and was very instructional.
Subbed and bell on!
Hey can help for vapor lock problem.....will this work .....i will make a new line for the electric pump at the back.....i just add a T fitting(T fitting at the original line) and before the pump i add a check valve.....from the pump i make a straight line to the carburetor and add T fitting and add check valve.....so its a one way line without return line.....will its work? Its just for start the car then i turn it off.....
Not sure about the T fittings and check valves. Sounds like you are by passing the mechanical pump. The electric pump located below and close to the fuel tank should avoid vapor lock. However, if you are bypassing the mechanical pump you haven't purged the vapor from the line going to the mechanical pump. The mechanical pump has to pull rather than push from the fuel tank. If the temperature in the line is hot enough the pull will cause vapor to form. Bottom line, better for electric pump to push through the mechanical pump rather than bypass it.
@@ron12april but if i just put the electic pump at the tank to pump to the mechanical pump ..... didn't the carb still get the hot gasoline gas? Btw from my knowledge i use check valve so the fuel from the tank to the electric pump and to the carb dont flow backwards when i turn off the electric pump.....like i said i dont have return line....maybe the carb will float a little.
@@ron12april when i think again maybe yours will work....but i need to turn on the electric pump a little longer so the hot gasoline go back to the tank....and fresh gasoline go to the carb....right?
Uhhhh this carb stuff hurt my brain 😂....btw i have a water auto choke.....will this also make the carb super hot? My water temp is always 80° ...and some tell me to add gap at the engine and ac pump....but didn't the ac pump will stop working if its not touching the camshaft?
Great video. I'd love to add this fix but the mechanical pump on my 84 c20 has a return line. Would this setup still work?
I don't really know. I would need to know more about your set up
I received my pump today. There is 1 black wire. Where do I connect this? Thanks.
Black wire is for +12 volts. Negative is connected through chassis. In my case, I found the + 12 from the wire going to the cigarette lighter and ran a wire from it to a new momentary on switch that I added, and from the switch to the black wire of the pump. The pump was bolted to the frame near the fuel tank providing the negative. (Pretty much all cars these days are negative ground with the Negative side of battery connected to the frame). Closing the momentary switch (with ignition switch on) completes the circuit providing 12 volts to the pump. From the + side of battery, through cigarette lighter fuse, through ignition switch, through momentary on switch, to the black wire of pump, through pump, and back to Negative side of battery through the car's frame. Releasing the momentary on switch breaks the circuit stopping the pump.
@@ron12april awesome. Thank you very much. I’m putting this on a 1968 Cadillac. Awesome video helped me make decision to try this install.
Where should be the fuel pump electric located near the carb or near the tank
Near the tank
Hello Ron, evethought electric pump is used not much, is there possibility of damage the mechanical pump diaphragm in the long run ?. Thanks for answering. BR
I do not have definitive answer, but the electric fuel pump only puts out 5 psi so I do not think it would cause damage.
Hey Ron, I kinda like this. Got me thinking? So what if I installed exactly like you did. Then instead of a momentary switch I installed a off/on/on momentary? So, for normal operation you would push the toggle arm to momentary, then release which defaults back to off and the mechanical pump takes over(again just like ypurs), However, IF, your mechanical pump ever fails(which life says it will sooner or later), one could switch the toggle to on which would stay as it is not spring loaded. Now the elect pump takes over thus not leaving you stranded???
Would this work or would it push to much fuel into the bowl and flood? As long as the elect fuel pump has the auto shut off feature one could even put a inline psi reducer after the pump to control the flow. Example: GM235cu carb requires 2-4 psi to carb. What's your thoughts? Thanks for the tutorial.
I actually had a mechanical pump go bad. The electric pump saved the day. I pushed the momentary pump until things smoothed out and then let go. When the engine started starving, I did it again. Got me home without any issues. Since the failure could be a torn membrane allowing fuel into the crankcase, I would not continue driving in this fashion very long. Therefore, your suggestion will work, but seems like a bit of overkill. The Faucet pump I use has a max pressure of 5.5 psi. I don't think the very slight overpressure will do any harm (5.5 vs 4).
Hey rob, so i was looking for videos on converting mechanical pumps to electric. Good detailed video, but if i can offer one piece of advice. Consider a rubber grommet or something to protect the hot wire going through that frame channel. Youre risking a short if that wire gets a rub through to the metal.
Sorry, Ron*
Good suggestion. Thanks
Look I can’t find nothing on this but can I just ad a in line fuel pump and still pull from my tank threw the original fuel pump car is a 1991 z28
Yes. That is the set up I have. Make sure pump is a flow through and not automatic shut off. The pump I use is shown in the video and a flow through.
Great video I'm wanting to do this a 4 cillinder motorcycle my only concern is this could over fill the float bowls does the pump slow down automatically when pressured up
Yes. But, I would not leave it on too long. Not good to dead head a pump.
Thank you for your reply do you know if in any way if I could fitt a in line fuel pressure sensor near the carb inlet to automatically switch the fuel pump on and off
@@paulgee5068 sounds pretty complicated to me. I am a great believer in keep it simple. You only need to fill the flat bowl for starting and a simple momentary on switch does the job very nicely.
Also, you state this is for a motorcycle. All the motorcycle I am familiar with have the fuel tank above the carbs and gravity feed fuel to the carbs. In that case there is no need for a pump - even for starting.
I just added a Edelbrock low psi,2-3.5 pump just for priming as you did,works great as no more long cranks! However in your video it sounds like your pump stops pumping before you released the button switch,as to indicate the system is fuel,then you you released the button.Mine,seems to keep running until I release the momentary switch,as I have no leaks,thought wouldself stop due to psi met. Unless I couldn't hear yours still running, is it normal for the pump to keep running while holding the switch in the on switch continues? Thought it would stop as well when it met it's psi? Thanks,just happy to have it fire up quick now.
Mine does stop when float bowl full and pressure limit reached.
@@ron12april Ok,thought it seemed to stop before you released the button. Thought mine would do the same but I guess it's not setup to stop once the system is full. Appreciate the reply!
Just started truck after 5 weeks. Started great after 1 minute of priming with electric fuel pump BUT did not stop on its own.
@@ron12april Yeah mine from the beginning never stops but only turn it on just fir for a bit anyway and solves my starting issues so I'm happy with it. Thanks for all you're input.
Interestingly, I tried the next day with full float bowl. Electric pump ran for only few seconds and then did shut off by itself. In any case running for 1 minute if it doesn't shut off seems to be plenty.
As a newbie, the electric pump flows fuel through the mechanical pump bypassing it to the carburetor or is it priming the mechanical pump?I have a flathead 6 cylinder and if it sits for a week,it takes some time to get fuel up to carburetor. Does this work on all mechanical fuel pumps? Thanks for the video.
The reason it takes some time to get the engine to start is the float bowl runs dry. Without the electric fuel pump the engine has to turn over operating the mechanical pump until fuel gets up to the carb. The electric fuel pump delivers fuel to the carb and fills the float bowl before ever trying to start the engine. That way there is fuel available for the engine to start as soon as you turn the key. Should work with all mechanical fuel pumps feeding carbs.
i changed my classics to electric fuel pump with mechanicalstill installed, i see no difference really if it sits a while , i still have to pump the gas pedal, it doesnt crank right up as you would think, maybe i waisted my time, installed on my 72 c-10 pickup and 70 buick shylark convertible.
Once the electric fuel pump fills the float bowl you should not have to crank very long if at all. You will still need to pump the gas pedal a few times so the accelerator pump squirts some fuel into the intake manifold and if you have a manual choke you will still need to use it. When I use the electric pump to fill the float bowl, then pump the gas pedal 3 times, and then pull the choke out, it fires right up even after sitting for weeks on end.
Are you letting the electric fuel pump fill the float bowl before you start cranking?
Great video, thanks! I was thinking... could you just plug the electric pump directly into the lighter button as you used the lighter socket power anyway and hold down the lighter button to start the pump?
As long as you get power to the pump when you want it. Key is not to have it on all the time, just for filling the float bowl
No
Will it stop vapor lock issues?
The short answer is no. Vapor lock occurs when gasoline vapor prevents the flow of liquid gasoline. Vapor forms when engine or exhaust heat causes boiling of the liquid gasoline in the fuel line or carburetor. The installation I show is for filling the float bowl of a vehicle that has been sitting for a while and is therefore cold. (No source of heat to vaporize the fuel). Vacuum caused by the pump pulling against too much pressure drop in the fuel line could also cause some vapor to form. Therefore, locating the pump near the fuel tank, and low is best.
@@ron12april
Thanks ron
@@msloquet On further reflection, an electric pump could possibly overcome vapor lock. I now assume that your question refers to trouble starting a hot engine. When first starting the engine, the mechanical pump turns slowly and therefore moves fuel much slower than when running. The slow-moving fluid could warm up and not overcome vapor lock. Further, the mechanical pump located on the engine and a distance from the fuel tank could cause vaporization in the line due to the negative pressure created by the pump pulling instead of pushing. An electric pump located near the fuel tank would move cold fuel from the tank at full rate and at higher pressure (pushing instead of pulling). So yes, an electric fuel pump could help with vapor lock.
Actually the Facet web site description of the pump states that it eliminates vapor lock.
Hey sir. 85 f150 here. Basically the path you took is to prime your fuel system by running the electric pump to the mechanical, and the mechanical then does all the work as it did before, am I understanding correctly?
Also, how does the electrical pump know to stop? If I was to get a low pressure pump like that, will it stop automatically like yours does? Does your carb have a return? Please help 😅
Electric pump activated by momentary switch. So, only on while hold button down. As soon as release, pump stops. No return line.
@@ron12april oh I gotcha! I thought it stopped on its own when pressure built and then you released the button. Thank you for the clarification! Cheers!
Pump will also turn off when pressure reached. I thought you meant after start up and engine running.
At least that is the case with pump I used. Best to check specs on pump you select
@@ron12april excellent to both. Thank you very much
Awesome! Amy wants to know when the power steering vid is going up :)
great video thanks!! Wish me luck!!
Good luck!
So did you run the fuel line parallel to the mechanical pump? I did what you did in this video but just have the one fuel line going from electric pump into mechanical pump and into carb. I think fuel is just stopping at mechanical pump because it doesn’t fill the bowl any quicker. Thanks!
My fuel line is same as what you describe. From electric fuel pump into mechanical fuel pump. The mechanical fuel pump allows fuel to flow through. With electric, flow fuel without cranking engine. Once carb float bowl is full should start easy.
@@ron12april okay great. Maybe I am over filling it and flooding it. I will pull line off carb and visually check if the electric pump is doing its job. Thanks for the video!
Also. If vehicle has been sitting a while, in addition to using choke pump the accelerator 3 or 4 times. This will squirt some fuel into engine.
my fuel pump never never shuts off when priming. continuously pumps unless i turn it off at the kill switch???????
Sounds like a bad momentary on switch. After releasing the momentary on switch there should be no power available for pump to keep running.
Trying to put on one on my 66 wildcat
hi ron does the electric fuel pump help with vapor lock ..i was told to run an electric fuel pump and keep the mechanical pump same as you have and use it to prime carb and to turn it on if vapor lock is starting to happen ....no i do not have a return line , i have no fitting on tank to put a return line and i dont wish to start drilling tank or filler hose
Yes. If you locate the electric pump close to the gas tank as I did, there will be less pulling and more pushing. Keeping the electric pump flooded should eliminate vapor lock while trying to start. Once the engine is running and there is a constant flow of gasoline you should not experience vapor lock with the mechanical fuel pump. If you have fuel delivery problems while running it is most likely due to a plugged fuel filter or faulty mechanical pump. I would start by changing the fuel filter as the easiest, cheapest and good practice.
@@ron12april thank you , also what if i add a return line would i still need the electric pump assist ...which is better the electric pump or the return line ..if i had a choice of 1 which one should i choose
@@jimgee2676 I'm not sure how you would plumb the return line. Seems to me adding an electric fuel pump would be easier and completely effective.
Hi would this help in starting my Chev PU with a mechanical pump it has a 6.2 diesel
I am out of my depth here. As I understand it, diesel engines inject fuel directly into the cylinder after compression, and therefore the pump operates at a much higher pressure. I don't think there is a float bowl as in IC engines with carburetors. Diesel fuel has a lower vapor pressure than gasoline so vapor lock should be less of a problem. I had a car with a diesel engine once. The only problem starting was waiting for the glow plug to warm things up - particularly in cold weather. In fact, in cold climates some folks will add a little gasoline to the diesel fuel so the gasoline vapors help the starting process. In VERY cold climates, truckers will often leave the truck running continuously rather than deal with starting problems.
Thank you Ron
Did you have to wire it to the battery as well?
12 volt positive is required to power the pump (negative through ground), and with this installation through a momentary on switch so it doesn't stay on. Better if fused. That is why I chose to piggy back the cigarette lighter socket. You could go directly to the battery positive terminal from the momentary switch through an in line fuse.
Ok thanks for the information
Awesome good job I'm going to do the same thing.
Do it! My setup is still working great.
Great video, Ron. did you just install the electric pump in the line between the tank and the mechanical pump? or “T” in the fuel line, from the electric pump, between the carb and mechanical pump?
the pump is between the tank and mechanical pump, as close to the tank as possible. One line, no Tee's. Therefore, it is important that the electric pump will allow flow through when not on.
@@ron12april That’s exactly what I did today, just wanted to confirm.👍 thanks Ron
Great idea 👍
Thanks. Works great
I keep texting a due fuel switch and they keep saying fuel pump C10 Chevy truck 350 due switch on d middle of boths tanks
I have only one tank
Q the 94 Ford l-star 3.0 there's we need to find out where the water pump is we don't know if there's one on there
I am not familiar with the 94 Ford I-star. However, unless this an electric vehicle there will be a water pump as it is required for engine cooling.
If you are referring to the fuel pump (not water pump) it is most likely inside the fuel tank. This is where modern vehicles with fuel injection have the pump located.
In my experience running quadragets, (if you have one), it's more likely your float bows is leaking from the drilling plugs than the fuel drying up. They are known for this problem.....Just sayin' Mike
My carb is single barrel. Nonetheless issue could be leaking or drying. In any case the electric fuel pump works great and this work around is probably easier than fixing the root cause.
❤️💛💚 this video was helpful
Powering through the ignition can cause problems in an accident if your not conscious to turn it off. Maybe I’m missing something.
Electric pump only used to fill the float bowl on initial start. It should not be on during normal driving and therefore not on during accident
If any vehicle is stubborn to start after sitting a while, just spray some starting fluid in the carburetor intake, should fire right up. Just an option other than installing an E Pump.
Also, to minimize noise from the pump it's a good idea to rubber-mount the pumps mounting bracket to the frame or whereever you are mounting it. Some E pumps have a sleeve mount, you can wrap that in bicycle innertube and will greatly minimize noise from the pump - if the sleeve doesn't already have rubber.
So how did you get the new fuel hose onto the tank barb, which wasn't shown, or do you just get wet for alittle bit and wouldn't it be bit safer to fasten the hot electric line to the brake line instead?
Get everything lined up and stay out the way. There is some fuel that comes out while you make the switch, but if you plan for it you should not get wet. Running the wire on the brake line works, but I do not think strapping it to the fuel line is unsafe. You would need both torn insulation to potentially create a spark, and a leak in the fuel line in the same location to create an unsafe condition. Even then, running the wire along the brake line still has it in close proximity to the fuel line.
@@ron12april , thx I also have a c-10 a 1964 but my 70 Caddy has the carb leak down problem and this is perfect as the manual pump works just fine.
How about the return
No return line on old trucks like my 1965
Where did you get this pump?
Aircraftspruce.com - I checked. They still carry the same model. Now there is an "E" at the end. 476087E.
Here is the page with the Facet "Gold-Flo Interrupter" fuel pumps:
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetgoldflo.php
Need u help
Genius
Then fix the carb, it's the problem. The lead filler plugs are leaking out.
Was gonna say, all this and the carb is the problem lol.
if you listen close he sounds like Clint Eastwood.
No filter, no regular no
The pump I used has integrated filter. I also have separate filter between mechanical pump and carburetor. Pump also is self regulating.
Return line
No return line with low pressure carburetor system
But ya yanks have got to understand that it's a Ute not a truck......and it's called petrol not gas or it's fuel not gas....
@@styvenszastur8205 ah, two countries separated by a common language
False title: Should be "Watch my Face for ~3 minutes". Big Thumbs Down.