keep on rocking bro your are on point looking at the bigger pic. I`ve been an installer all my life and never got into the service side troubleshoot until about a year and a half ago and believe your site really motivates me and im still learning. thanks.
Great videos. One other cause I have found is dirty or WET filters. Once a filter gets wet the dirt turns to mud (a solid mass) and the negative air pressure keeps ALL the water inside the unit until it runs over the sides of the pan. Keep up the great teachings
It must be a code thing to run the drain in copper and thru the roof. Here in Ohio a 3/4 PVC male pipe thread coupling, a street 90 and a p trap. Done. Let it drain on the roof. No glue either. That p trap could of been cleaned on the pm. I can only imagine what you billed that customer for all those copper fittings and labor. Anyways good videos. You should make a video where you open a panel and about 30 wasps come at you. Happens to me too often
Thank you so much for the video and taking requests into consideration, brilliant work , sir ! Unfortunately I'm not able to follow the live streams because of the time difference, but I watch them afterwards in replay. Thanks again, mate. Cheers !
Exactly right.. The PTrap acts as a plug prevents air locks and stench and icing up.... If you have an air lock where water drifts in the pan it will ice up the coil and splash around as the fan is working. I remember i got a mate of mine close the panel while i was inside the return air and i could see air lock before the drain outlet and water was filling up but splashing around because i was feeling it like trickles of rain. It freezes on the coil eventually water molecules will freeze when hits coil.
Great job diagnosing that water leak! Crazy to think the drain pan was just over flowing. Will definitely check this out at my church RTU where we have period leaks👍
I dont know how I got here. Cant say I was interested in hvac systems before but you're a really good content creator and technician it seems. Wish you were my repair man, guys around here are hacks
Thanks for the good recommendations on drain piping. I've always put clean out stubs on top of my traps, but never considered the two vents that you put there. I like that idea and I think I'll use that in the future.
Instead of putting that clean out T with loose cap before the trap, why don’t you replace the last 90 on the trap with a T, with a female adaptor and plug for a cleanout right at the bottom of the trap? Someone will eventually leave the cap off of your cleanout, and cause a flood. We always installed a union right at the unit for easier servicing also. Good job on constructing a proper trap.
Good Video, I do majority residential service, and I have seen so many installation where the evaporator coil (in the up flow position) drain ties into a external high efficiency furnace drain Tee, you be surprised how many furnace heat exchangers gets filled up with water due to main drain getting plugged up in the summer time, and this can lead up to a very expensive repair
I like the video's as it show the abnormal thing's u come across when called out to units that hasn't been serviced in year's iknow from when you buy a business the previous owner's don't keep up with regular services to keep break downs to a minimum which in the long run will cost double or more to fix.
One of my customers did mass mailings. The paper dust was unbelievable. Every pipe conduit drain line every thing had a point of paper dust. This dust would fill the evaporators and water would get sucked out of the drain. I had to pressure wash the twice a year. The smell was bad. Like an indoor hippo exhibit. BAD lol
Gravity siphoning. This is critical on small vinyl tubing on ductless split systems, more critical or you may overheat that small pump and lose its prime. Most installers don't understand how it works. 1/2 -3/4 copper has really no with siphoning issues due to size. If you have an indoor unit higher than drain outlet, then read instructions carefully.
Great video! But did you ever discern what caused the leak onto the air filters? I have a residential carrier unit doing the same. I cleaned out the P trap but water just drips down onto the air filter without reaching the drain pan. A mess on the closet floor.
Why do you run condensate in copper especially for a RTU (1. And why does it drain back into the space (2. PVC easy trap (or preformed trap) with a slip 90 and an adapter. Let it run back on the roof. So long as the PM's includes clearing traps and priming traps. Saves time and unnecessary calls. Awesome video though. Keep up the good work.
The only thing I do differently is either washing out the trap (if removable) OR using a brush If I can get it through the 90's.. I have found blowing out drains doesn't always clear all the sludge out of the trap. Your trap design is EXACTLY how I think it should be done. It allows you to actually clean the trap.
It's common for you guys in the US to use 3/4 pipe for run the drain on these machines? I'm in italy and most of the buildings with chillers or heat pumps use 1''-1/4 or even 1''-1/2 for the drains. This was originally to deal with ice during low outside temps but it prevents clogged drains due dirts too. Btw, it's just a curiosity of mine. Thanks for all these videos!
Keep your eye on that bottom drain pan plug. Obviously this is not the case right now, but Carrier doesn't dope that plug and every so often becomes an issue, and can be a pain to fix.
chris rouleau 2 reasons. 1 it creates a slip hazard from slime growth on any surface it flows on. 2 it’s code. Requires you to run the drain to an approved indoor drain or to a garden or grass or to a storm drain. It cannot run on any surface where it can create a slip hazard
Would you disconnect the Dashboard and jump out the stat and run it. 1st asking customer? Good video on P Trap it is bety important to trap that correctly, which you did. Nice video. Love watching.
Hi, I noticed in your video @ around 3:50 there is water dripping down in multiple locations below heat exchanger panel. Did you notice this as well? Very informative, thanks for sharing!
Lol I have the same issues with gridpoint but my issue arrises when they don’t want you touching their connections or the ac unit unless I ask them for permission. I got to the point that I just do whatever I need to do to the unit to go to opera running for the customer and don’t care what gridpoint wants.
I’ve been doing AC work in Houston for over 40 years. I haven’t seen an energy management system that I like. I’ve been known to toss a thermostat in the return to bypass that crap until they fix it. Program it for the customers need.
I will be going live on TH-cam this evening 4/22/19 @5:PM (west coast time) to discuss my most recent uploads and answer questions from emails and the chat. Come on over and check it out if you can th-cam.com/video/Zz48S-NmlAY/w-d-xo.html
I break balls but i have to say as I watch your videos, you think like I do, so I.m sure that you're a pretty damn good tech, well done! Enjoying your stuff!
Well that unit either ran all night, or was set below 68 degrees, maybe both. You know that, your an experienced tech. Sometimes I would get a call for water dripping downstairs from an up flow down flow unit, and I would go up on the roof to find all the copper had been stolen. In that case I would just replace it with PVC, if it went to a roof top drain.
Thanks so much for watching I am going live this evening 2/18/19 at 5PM (Pacific time) to discuss recent uploads and answer questions from the week. Come on over and check it out th-cam.com/video/78KjceoUwlc/w-d-xo.html
What circumstances would require a new unit? I’ve seen you fix 20 year old units, and new units, is it just when it gets to the point that it’s falling apart that you replace it?
But you never have to replace the copper again, it lasts forever unlike the PVC in the California sun that has to be replaced every few years due to UV damage
And if Bayweb gets hacked all sorts of havoc could be created. But no worries, Corporations today have the highest levels of network security and are worried about your data....
Do you have a formula on sizing that Trap Do you have any health tips from working on a roof at a110 degrees then going into a freezer then back to the roof again, must be hard on the body
I saw your comment on the tweeker. It’s a real problem here in Santa Cruz, with all the meth heads. We had just installed tons of new copper condensate lines, some up to 1 1/2” dia. All leading long distances to roof drains. We got a call several weeks later about water leaking into the building. We went up on the roof to find all of the copper gone.
thanks for watching, I am going live a little early today 12/24/18 at 12:00pm pacific standard time come on over if you can and check it out th-cam.com/video/rDd469JwYww/w-d-xo.html
Rod Graff I had a place they stole the copper every weekend. It got to the point to save the customer money I wouldn’t insulate. They put up a 12 ft chain link fence. That didn’t work either. This was years ago but I could count on every Monday morning running more copper lol crazy
I have the same problems with the Trane unit the water coming all over the drain , look like coming from the coil and going down to the return. I floch the drain,p trap clean the drain pan and the water still coming out the drain pan I don’t now from where the water coming from.? Can you give me a idea thank you🎼🎶🎺🌅
Same here copper? Ohio pvc , got 20 yr old yorks ,15 tons,still with original drains. 20 winters and summers. Each his own.. Thought that size drain more appropriate to a 15ton plus unit..
Hi, i'm having a similar issue, i had a 35 year old carrier package unit that was been leaking every time it rained, water will leak to the return inside the house.. i had 2 different opinions on what could be the problem.. first tech said that the drain pan is very rusted.. and the water could be going from there, we sprayed water with the hose through the fan opening and it started leaking inside immediately.. second tech suggested that the way the unit was not properly installed and not leveled correctly.. i ended up replacing the unit with a new 2.5 ton Grandaire by Carrier, and to my surprise.. today after a hard 2 hours rain, it starter leaking again.. any idea what else it could be? any suggestions? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
This shows how municipalities can create HVAC problems. There is no good reason for them to require condensate to be piped into the building. While copper is a great biocide, due to the copper ions, it can still get clogged with organic matter, and a non-glued trap made of PVC is always the best approach when the AHJ allows you to do it. In areas where condensate water can frieze overnight, the fittings just get pushed apart rather than bursting due to the ice forming in the fittings. This would have been a 30 second call, pulling the slip fit trap apart and cleaning it, and no expensive copper fittings to boot. While EMS can make us a lot of money when comm goes down or store complaints arise from the absurd setpoints, it still stands for Everyone Must Suffer.
Funny fact dat Big heavy duty AC unit Das have Energy Star on you're kidding they're all the same right except for Mitsubishi they have modulated compressor control Pump they can run at 10% speed all the way to 100% normally is Just a on off relay
That’s amazing- went into full detail on the service call- leaks, you never know and you have to look at everything. It’s a step by step process.
I wish I had your tutorials when I was working in HVAC/R. Excellent work.
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I like the way you teach you will make a good HVAC instructor one day.
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keep on rocking bro your are on point looking at the bigger pic. I`ve been an installer all my life and never got into the service side troubleshoot until about a year and a half ago and believe your site really motivates me and im still learning. thanks.
Great videos. One other cause I have found is dirty or WET filters. Once a filter gets wet the dirt turns to mud (a solid mass) and the negative air pressure keeps ALL the water inside the unit until it runs over the sides of the pan. Keep up the great teachings
It must be a code thing to run the drain in copper and thru the roof. Here in Ohio a 3/4 PVC male pipe thread coupling, a street 90 and a p trap. Done. Let it drain on the roof. No glue either. That p trap could of been cleaned on the pm. I can only imagine what you billed that customer for all those copper fittings and labor. Anyways good videos. You should make a video where you open a panel and about 30 wasps come at you. Happens to me too often
Exactly. The roof is where rain falls. It's water.
Thank you so much for the video and taking requests into consideration, brilliant work , sir !
Unfortunately I'm not able to follow the live streams because of the time difference, but I watch them afterwards in replay.
Thanks again, mate.
Cheers !
Love your work, quality videos that are to the point and informative.
TH-cam keeps recommending other channels but they simply don't compare to yours.
Thanks for the nice words !!
Love your videos man! 11yrs in the trade and I share them with all my hvac buddies!
Thanks so much for the nice words!
Exactly right.. The PTrap acts as a plug prevents air locks and stench and icing up.... If you have an air lock where water drifts in the pan it will ice up the coil and splash around as the fan is working. I remember i got a mate of mine close the panel while i was inside the return air and i could see air lock before the drain outlet and water was filling up but splashing around because i was feeling it like trickles of rain. It freezes on the coil eventually water molecules will freeze when hits coil.
Great job diagnosing that water leak!
Crazy to think the drain pan was just over flowing. Will definitely check this out at my church RTU where we have period leaks👍
I dont know how I got here. Cant say I was interested in hvac systems before but you're a really good content creator and technician it seems. Wish you were my repair man, guys around here are hacks
Thanks for the good recommendations on drain piping. I've always put clean out stubs on top of my traps, but never considered the two vents that you put there. I like that idea and I think I'll use that in the future.
Smart smart People are born to do certain things and you’re calling is definitely HVAC
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I like watching your shows. Your a very thorough tech. Something I like to instill in my students.
Thanks !
It was an eternity waiting for the next video!
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Wow it looks pretty good now...
and as always very simple explanation.
Thumbs up !!!
The amount of stuff you have to know for HVAC repair.. wow.
Yeah sometimes my head hurts
Good job Chris. PTrap master
Thanks for the explanation Chris.
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Instead of putting that clean out T with loose cap before the trap, why don’t you replace the last 90 on the trap with a T, with a female adaptor and plug for a cleanout right at the bottom of the trap? Someone will eventually leave the cap off of your cleanout, and cause a flood. We always installed a union right at the unit for easier servicing also. Good job on constructing a proper trap.
Great idea on the tee, thanks for watching
Good Video, I do majority residential service, and I have seen so many installation where the evaporator coil (in the up flow position) drain ties into a external high efficiency furnace drain Tee, you be surprised how many furnace heat exchangers gets filled up with water due to main drain getting plugged up in the summer time, and this can lead up to a very expensive repair
thanks for watching, I am going live on TH-cam tonight at 5:00pm pacific time come on over and check it out!
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I like the video's as it show the abnormal thing's u come across when called out to units that hasn't been serviced in year's iknow from when you buy a business the previous owner's don't keep up with regular services to keep break downs to a minimum which in the long run will cost double or more to fix.
Good teaching, Sensei Chris..
Thanks bud
One of my customers did mass mailings. The paper dust was unbelievable. Every pipe conduit drain line every thing had a point of paper dust. This dust would fill the evaporators and water would get sucked out of the drain. I had to pressure wash the twice a year. The smell was bad. Like an indoor hippo exhibit. BAD lol
Learned something new..As is the case with all your videos I watch lol
Thanks bud
Gravity siphoning. This is critical on small vinyl tubing on ductless split systems, more critical or you may overheat that small pump and lose its prime. Most installers don't understand how it works. 1/2 -3/4 copper has really no with siphoning issues due to size. If you have an indoor unit higher than drain outlet, then read instructions carefully.
Great video! But did you ever discern what caused the leak onto the air filters? I have a residential carrier unit doing the same. I cleaned out the P trap but water just drips down onto the air filter without reaching the drain pan. A mess on the closet floor.
Why do you run condensate in copper especially for a RTU (1. And why does it drain back into the space (2. PVC easy trap (or preformed trap) with a slip 90 and an adapter. Let it run back on the roof. So long as the PM's includes clearing traps and priming traps. Saves time and unnecessary calls. Awesome video though. Keep up the good work.
I agree with you Chris that trap was way to close
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The only thing I do differently is either washing out the trap (if removable) OR using a brush If I can get it through the 90's.. I have found blowing out drains doesn't always clear all the sludge out of the trap. Your trap design is EXACTLY how I think it should be done. It allows you to actually clean the trap.
Thanks bud
👍Nice tip with the ptrap.
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Nice repair video
Thanks bud
why are all your condensate drains run in copper versus pvc?
Good teaching, thank you for taking the time to make this videos they’re very helpful 👍
Good job mate!!! Great video
It's common for you guys in the US to use 3/4 pipe for run the drain on these machines? I'm in italy and most of the buildings with chillers or heat pumps use 1''-1/4 or even 1''-1/2 for the drains. This was originally to deal with ice during low outside temps but it prevents clogged drains due dirts too. Btw, it's just a curiosity of mine. Thanks for all these videos!
Awesome video as always man. Excellent explanation
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Keep your eye on that bottom drain pan plug. Obviously this is not the case right now, but Carrier doesn't dope that plug and every so often becomes an issue, and can be a pain to fix.
Thanks for the tip bud, I've never had an issue but with the lack of quality control these days you never know...
Hi Chris why don't you just let the condensate drain on the roof
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It's a thing in his area they do. He said it in the livestream
chris rouleau 2 reasons. 1 it creates a slip hazard from slime growth on any surface it flows on. 2 it’s code. Requires you to run the drain to an approved indoor drain or to a garden or grass or to a storm drain. It cannot run on any surface where it can create a slip hazard
Would you disconnect the Dashboard and jump out the stat and run it. 1st asking customer? Good video on P Trap it is bety important to trap that correctly, which you did. Nice video. Love watching.
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BEAUTIFUL WORK MY MAN! All ur videos are Very helpful for this entry level Tech. 😊👍🏻👍🏻
Hi, I noticed in your video @ around 3:50 there is water dripping down in multiple locations below heat exchanger panel. Did you notice this as well? Very informative, thanks for sharing!
Very good as per usual
Thanks bud!
You need a P-trap on the positive side to Or else you will be pushing air out your drain pan through your condensate line.
Lol I have the same issues with gridpoint but my issue arrises when they don’t want you touching their connections or the ac unit unless I ask them for permission. I got to the point that I just do whatever I need to do to the unit to go to opera running for the customer and don’t care what gridpoint wants.
Yeah Gridpoint sucks donkey $$$$. Luckily I dont have any of their systems anymore.
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I’ve been doing AC work in Houston for over 40 years. I haven’t seen an energy management system that I like. I’ve been known to toss a thermostat in the return to bypass that crap until they fix it. Program it for the customers need.
Nice video. Thank you.
Love your videos brother
Thanks so much
I will be going live on TH-cam this evening 4/22/19 @5:PM (west coast time) to discuss my most recent uploads and answer questions from emails and the chat. Come on over and check it out if you can
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I break balls but i have to say as I watch your videos, you think like I do, so I.m sure that you're a pretty damn good tech, well done! Enjoying your stuff!
No ball valve?
Well that unit either ran all night, or was set below 68 degrees, maybe both. You know that, your an experienced tech. Sometimes I would get a call for water dripping downstairs from an up flow down flow unit, and I would go up on the roof to find all the copper had been stolen. In that case I would just replace it with PVC, if it went to a roof top drain.
Thanks so much for watching I am going live this evening 2/18/19 at 5PM (Pacific time) to discuss recent uploads and answer questions from the week. Come on over and check it out th-cam.com/video/78KjceoUwlc/w-d-xo.html
We usually use pvc instead
Excillent sir.....
항상 잘보고 갑니다~대한민국No.1 공조냉동기능공^^
Thank you for watching!
@@HVACRVIDEOS Thank you
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What circumstances would require a new unit? I’ve seen you fix 20 year old units, and new units, is it just when it gets to the point that it’s falling apart that you replace it?
Which do you prefer pvc or copper condensate drain lines? Is there a code where guy our at?
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Love this!
Splits-ville in northern climates, use less of a catch in colder states.
No pvc for drain lines? CA code? Just curious.
Good stuff, fella.
AJ Culberson Was wondering the same thing lol
PVC warps and becomes brital over time. And I do believe it is code to have copper as a drain pipe
@@Heavy_metal_rulez so easy to replace the pvc tho. what a pain to be installing copper
But you never have to replace the copper again, it lasts forever unlike the PVC in the California sun that has to be replaced every few years due to UV damage
HVACR VIDEOS understandable. I’m in the northwest so we don’t have to worry about the sun that much
And if Bayweb gets hacked all sorts of havoc could be created. But no worries, Corporations today have the highest levels of network security and are worried about your data....
Do you have a formula on sizing that Trap
Do you have any health tips from working on a roof at a110 degrees then going into a freezer then back to the roof again, must be hard on the body
Just curious why is the drain all copper? Here in wi it’s always pvc and usually just a trap that then drains onto the roof.
The PVC drain lines will get too brittle in our sun and heat out here. Copper lasts forever or until a crack head needs a fix......
I can see that since they enter the building. Ice will split copper as easily as pvc so we drain onto the roof and they don’t need to last that long.
I saw your comment on the tweeker. It’s a real problem here in Santa Cruz, with all the meth heads. We had just installed tons of new copper condensate lines, some up to 1 1/2” dia. All leading long distances to roof drains. We got a call several weeks later about water leaking into the building. We went up on the roof to find all of the copper gone.
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Rod Graff I had a place they stole the copper every weekend. It got to the point to save the customer money I wouldn’t insulate. They put up a 12 ft chain link fence. That didn’t work either. This was years ago but I could count on every Monday morning running more copper lol crazy
Man you are super smart can I contact you for help with refrigeration equipment?
Friend request me on facebook just search hvacrvideos and we can communicate thru messenger
1:15 that's a sheave, the pulley is on the driven side LOL
I have the same problems with the Trane unit the water coming all over the drain , look like coming from the coil and going down to the return. I floch the drain,p trap clean the drain pan and the water still coming out the drain pan I don’t now from where the water coming from.? Can you give me a idea thank you🎼🎶🎺🌅
Curious how much time you spent on this? Looks like a half day
About an hour and a half was the onsite time.
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What does rtu stands for bud?
RoofTop Unit
Thank bro.. what part of us are you located??
California
Is it weird that condensation line is copper, maybe it's code?
It's all we really use in commercial out here in california
Yeah I live in Tennessee , I guess it's different for everyone. But why copper over pvc?
The PVC ends up getting really brittle and it breaks really easily. The copper lasts forever or at least till a tweaker needs a fix.
Same here copper?
Ohio pvc , got 20 yr old yorks ,15 tons,still with original drains. 20 winters and summers. Each his own..
Thought that size drain more appropriate to a 15ton plus unit..
If it’s code required. If it runs inside the building envelope it cannot be pvc. Incase of a fire no noxious fume material can be used inside.
Hi, i'm having a similar issue, i had a 35 year old carrier package unit that was been leaking every time it rained, water will leak to the return inside the house.. i had 2 different opinions on what could be the problem.. first tech said that the drain pan is very rusted.. and the water could be going from there, we sprayed water with the hose through the fan opening and it started leaking inside immediately.. second tech suggested that the way the unit was not properly installed and not leveled correctly.. i ended up replacing the unit with a new 2.5 ton Grandaire by Carrier, and to my surprise.. today after a hard 2 hours rain, it starter leaking again.. any idea what else it could be? any suggestions? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
This shows how municipalities can create HVAC problems. There is no good reason for them to require condensate to be piped into the building. While copper is a great biocide, due to the copper ions, it can still get clogged with organic matter, and a non-glued trap made of PVC is always the best approach when the AHJ allows you to do it. In areas where condensate water can frieze overnight, the fittings just get pushed apart rather than bursting due to the ice forming in the fittings.
This would have been a 30 second call, pulling the slip fit trap apart and cleaning it, and no expensive copper fittings to boot. While EMS can make us a lot of money when comm goes down or store complaints arise from the absurd setpoints, it still stands for Everyone Must Suffer.
4:52 tool bag?
No it was my plumbing caddy that had all the copper fittings in it. :-)
Oh ok at least it wasn't your tool bag no damaged meters/instruments
So I have a question for you.
And what might that be??
@@HVACRVIDEOS I have a 4 year old goodman ac heater and it stinks when the cooler is used.
Could be a drain issue but more than likely mildew or mold in the ducts and or evaporator section.
@@HVACRVIDEOS if it's that easy why would multiple ac tech miss that ?
Good question........
Went and checked the drained on my house ok
Funny fact dat Big heavy duty AC unit Das have Energy Star on you're kidding they're all the same right except for Mitsubishi they have modulated compressor control Pump they can run at 10% speed all the way to 100% normally is Just a on off relay
Why such a huge trap. You only need to create a seal. Using 45 deg els tends to flush the drip rather than hold it
throw a tstat down the return!
Typical California code.