After putting about a thousand miles on my 2011 Infiniti G37S Sedan LE this past year, this issue finally caught up to me. I replaced my car battery in the fall of 2019 and then again a few weeks ago while troubleshooting this issue. The auto parts store said the alternator seemed fine but suggested that I take it to the local Nissan dealership to get the charging system checked out. I found this video and the solution and description was PERFECT. The hardest part for me was removing the box that holds the assembly that the connector plugs into from the retainer in the engine bay and then snapping it back in when I was done. The cable bundle is very tight and doesn't seem like it wants to move but as soon as you get it moving, it had about 4 to 6 inches of slack. After I was done, I had to stick my hand back down under the box and kind of guide the cable back down so that it would click back into the retainer. Thanks for the help Jay!!!
Thank you for making this detailed video. Your wiring diagram is for a 2008 G37 Coupe, that is the exact car I have. I noticed everything was the same when I looked at my diagrams and saw yours were identical down to the fact is says G37 Coupe in your video. Harness looks identical as well. So it is almost like you made this video to help me haha! This made the task a lot clearer. I appreciate it!! For anyone wondering where this connector is in the IPDM, because there are two similar connectors, if you go to page PG-93 in the service manual it has a diagram of the IPDM and the connector you are looking for is the one on the right when you are looking at the front of the IPDM. The 76 wire is on the top side of that connector.
Hey Jay. I gotta say thanks. I watched your video. Pulled schematics, and harness diagrams for my 2011 M37X and pulled the wire called out per the schematic, and no more dead battery. I appreciate your guidance. I was beyond frustrated using a NOCO booster all the time.
@@bornfree3472 hey, wish I could help. I just can't remember. It was 2 years ago. And I sold it just over a year ago. I know the location was located behind the batter against the firewall on the passenger side. I think I have the manual. Let me look, and see if I can jog my memory.
Wish i had something like this for my Toyota Fielder =( Voltage only being close to 14 at cold start is frustrating. If you have any idea where I can find some help for my vehicle & disabling/bypassing this please let me know. Thanks & great vid!
Thank you very much Jay!! I did this on my 2011 Infiniti g25x. I rolled the dice and followed the video exactly and it was apparently the exact same as whatever diagram you showed in the video. My voltage now sits at least 14.2 to 14.5. the reason I wanted to do this mod is not because I was having issues with my battery dying it's because I have a massive stereo system in my car so keeping the battery in prime condition is a must. I just have one more question for anyone who may be able to answer it. Now that I have completed this mod does the voltage sensor that goes around the negative battery cable still have a function? Or can I remove it or bypass it to run a larger ground wire? For the best functionality of a car audio system it's imperative that you run a bigger wire from the alternator to the battery, from the battery to chassis ground and from the engine to chassis ground, I have 1/0 Gauge wire and it simply will not fit through that little ring/sensor. Any help or comments would be much appreciated!
@@karlzink5757 thanks for your reply. I have since done the same thing and I am also running two excess power d3400 batteries. Voltage is Rock solid on 3000 Watts RMS between the mids and highs and the sub amps.
hello it works for a nissan murano 2010.? .. just disconnecting the ping from the Ipdm.? The battery light and the brake light turn on alternately, thank you very much
This video looks very helpful. I have a 2013 JX35 with apparently the same issue. I have no idea where to get the wiring diagram like you have there. Do you have a source I could access? Thanks
Hi Jay. Good job. Just watched your video on youtube about removing the alternator control wire from the IPDM. I have some questions about this control circuit. I know it is PWM control. Does the alternator regulator supply the voltage on this control wire to the IPDM, and the IPDM toggles it on and off to ground to create the PWM control signal? Or does the IPDM supply both the voltage and PWM pulse to the regulator control terminal? If you Unplug the regulator connector, KOER, Which way would V come from? Thank you sir.
Wow, exactly the info I was looking for, thanks! My Nissan hasn't let the battery go completely flat, but doesn't keep it well charged at all - there's obviously some charging going on, but the car gets driven once or twice a week, and for short trips. Now I realise the black component that surrounds the battery negative cable is a current sensor, and the charging voltage is adjusted by the car. I might give this mod a try. So is the control signal from the IPDM to the alternator PWM?
Great stuff here Jay. I'm interested in what the actual fix was from Nissan /Infiniti ? The dead battery issues reared it's head for many , blamed on the short trips , blamed on the Expansion Valve Assembly having to heavy of a draw when shut down , they were replacing them with a new part # , giving people new batteries as well if under warranty and also re mapping of the ECU ......I get the idea of the part , I get the idea of the battery and it being bigger with more reserve but what did the remapping do to fix the issue ? Did it make the alternator kick in quicker than before or sooner ? This fix you posted is this the same thing just done with a mechanical action rather than an ecu remapping ? Thanks for all you do it is appreciated .
Jay, I appreciate your video. Which wire is it if you are having battery drain on a 2011 m37 that doesn't get driven over the 8 mile mark all the time. Do you have a wire diagram?
Where is this located on the 2003 Altima 3.5?? Is that diagram showing the connection all the same for nissan's? would pin #27 be the same wire on the 03 Altima 3.5?? The only place I've seen a connector that looks like that is on my ECM
Hey jay how are you doing great tutorial . I have a 2017 Altima on bags and about 2000 watts rms would this be a good idea to do to my car since I see the current drop . I done the big 3 upgrade and also have 0g wire to my amps . If u recommended do u know what’s the easiest way to do it ? I see I have a sensor on my factory ground wire witch I’m assuming that’s the battery current sensor . Thanks in advance
2013 infinity qx56 constant dead battery not starting. Mechanic can’t figure it out. Is there a way to disconnect the smart feature from the battery end ? Thanks
I'm planning to use an Infiniti?Nissan IPDM alternator that I will be fitting to my older Maxima, how can I modify the alternator wiring itself to bypass the IPDM ?
I have g35 2005 not charging battery. I can't find the same connector like on your video. I have ecm f108 connector. can you tell me please which wire position I need to disconnect? it looks totally different. thanks
Yes I think is true I take out almost all the cables in the ipdm 2005 infiniti g35x and continue doing the same and turn off the car sometimes make me crazy, I think next step Change the alternator
Thanks for the video. Good detail with the diagrams and all. one question though. Once you identify the wire in the harness for the module wouldnt it be simpler to just cut it ? a safe distance from the connector obviously, in case you ever wanted to hook it back up. I dont see the advantage of pulling the terminal when all you want to do is cut the feed from the alternator. Also will cutting this wire cause the PCM to set a code when it cant "see" the alternator anymore? sorry guess that was two questions....
+Ian Nicoll I never like to cut a wire unless I have to. This way if you ever wanted to put it back, you only need to un-tape where I had it folded back and just snap it back in instead of doing a wire repair.
Hello Jay. I have a 2011 QX56 that won't keep the battery charged. I saw your video about removing the wire from the ECM plug and I wondered if you could tell me what wire it is on this year and model? After removing this wire, what keeps it from overcharging and frying the battery?
Thx for the info, I have a 2012 m56 but my daily is a 99 toyota 4runner. I drive the car a few times a month and I've replaced the battery about 3 times. I'll try this on the weekend. again thx so much.
bad news I tried this and I thought it worked when I put the car back together, once i was done and was going to turn the car off it wouldn't shut off. I had to remove the negative battery terminal just to use the start button to turn the car off.
Im late to the party, but can you advise whether or not the alternator is controlled by the ecm on my 2007 maxima 3.5 (with the shitty bose system)? Ive been searching and searching
Ive bought a high output alt for a 2014 rogue, the alt has the same IC regulator and behaves exactly like the stock except for much more amperage. in cold weather it charges at 14.5 and hot weather 13.9, and when i unplug the alt harness its at 14.2 BUT the battery light comes on. is there any way to get that higher (14.5) on demand like when i turn on the my rather large sound system?
I got a 2011 titan and I drive 3 miles to work. My bullydog tuner shows voltage at 14 and fluctuates as I drive does this mean there is no pcm control on my truck?
This truck has a Battery Current Sensor. But does have a wire going from the Alternator to the IPDM. So I have not done this mod on these newer Titan's, so I can say it works. But it is controlled
@@FixyourNissan I just unplugged it but I have a .850ma draw so my battery is dead overnight anyways. Disconnected each cable to the fusible link and nothing changes
@@FixyourNissan thanks I did and capped both end. But my car still do the same thing charge at 14.28v than drop back down 11.19v when car warms up I have new battery and alternator. Do you think I have a faulty alternator
I know this is a old video but there's a easier way to stop the ecm from controlling the alternator. Just unplug the connector from the battery sensor that's on the negative battery cable.
@@FixyourNissan Works for Nissan and Infiniti up until 2014 that uses battery sensor. Not sure if they use same charging system after that. Unplugging the sensor disables the ecm power command. The alternator defaults to its own regulator.
I have a 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R 2.5L and the voltage drops below 13v at idle in traffic. It only ever goes to 13.8 even at 80mph around 3000rpm. This is a 2 part question, one, is this model one that your video applies to, and two, should I replace my alternator? Thanks in advance!
Hello jay will this work for a 2013 Nissan juke nismo if not do you have the diagram or well unplugging the sensor on the negative battery terminal work?
Hello, I hope you're doing good can you please teach me how to do it on my 2019 Nissan Armada because I spend to much on the dealership with no solutions I'm being frustrated on my Nissan I bought it last Sept and after 2 months the problem occurs. I almost jump started it every other day the dealer suggest to reprogram or update it didn't solve, they changed the two switches on the brake it still the same. I hope you can help me thanks
Hi Jay, I want to do this because I don’t drive the car often and when I do,it’s usually only short trips. I am dealing with battery drain all the time. Before going ahead with this mod, could you check for me that the wiring diagram you showed is the same for my car? I have a 2014 Infiniti Q60 IPL. It’s the same body style as a G37 and parts are usually all the same, but if you could just verify that’d be great.
I am going to try this option by removing number 76 (yellow wire) on the diagram on the IPDM. This will allow the alternator to charge constantly. I will see if this will solve my parasitic draw on my 2008 G37 Coupe. Changed the Vent control valve no luck. No electrical or electronic issues, just a drained battery. I will only drive the car about 17-20 miles once or twice a week, then the battery dies in one in a half days if I don’t use a tender. I have been using a battery tender all these years. I don’t think it is a ECM problem either, but will try this option first.
@FixyourNissan It's charging... Took readings at idle(14.8), then turned on lights/highbeams, air conditioning, etc, only dropped to 14.7. It's a 320A high output alternator with 14.8 setpoint so its charging perfectly.... Since I'm using the aftermarket high output alternator and different voltage regulator besides oem, the warning light for battery will always illuminate I found out
You want to make sure you are disconnecting the correct wire using the proper wiring diagram. Also you only want to do this to cars that are not driven very often.
Hey, so maybe you can help me I've been working on an 2006 Infiniti m35x with a charging problem. The battery is new the alternator has been replaced and I got myself a IPDM from the scrap yard in the car still won't charge. All the fuses relays and circuits are working fine, I'm lost. P.s. when I disconnect the electrical connector from the alternator the indicator light in the dash goes away. send it stay on?
I have a 2009 maxima. My number 76 is silver n blue. According to the manual it's the same as your yellow. I did this same thing and it's still being controlled somehow. I have a 390 amp alternator from Js alternator. Nissan installed it. A pigtail came with it. Most guys have the sense wire over the alternator post and the L wire going to the fuse box. Nissan wired it into the factory plug wiring. I was told that's why it's still being controlled. I don't see how with this wire disconnected. At idle with no load the voltage drops to 13.2v n just sits there. If I turn the AC on it goes up. Same if I rev the gas.
Hello and thank you for watching. Pin 76 at the IPDM should be a Sky Blue wire. This is the wire that does control the Alternator. Now if you have replaced the Alternator with an aftermarket alternator, they are known to never work properly. So if it's not charging, don't think it's the Ecm controlling it. It's normally because it's aftermarket. I strongly suggest you get the Alternator from the dealer if it ever requires replacement. Aftermarket Alternators only tend to last 6 months or less, if you even get one that works.
So, this way we can use the PCM controlled Alternator in non PCM Controlled car right? Because I am not able to find the alternator for my car i.e J31 Nissan teana and able to find the one that fits in J32 teana. The difference between the two Alternators are one J31 has 110 A alternator with two pin wires i.e. L/S (Lamp and Signal) and the other one that fits in J32 has 130 A with three pins i.e. C/L/S (Computer control, Lamp, Signal). So can i remove the Computer signal wire and use the J32 alternator in J31?
I do not like to have to cut a wire unless you have to. Removing the pin, allows you to put it right back to factory with out doing any wire cut or repair
Can we cut the IPDM line from Alternator directly and just run 2 wire instead of 3 wire pigtail. 2012 Nissan Maxima here. New Alternator, Belt, New Battery, and clean/tight connection. Alternator isnt charging. Killed 2 batteries during testing.
Please keep in mind. This wiring diagram is not for all models & not all Models apply. Always best to have the correct wiring diagram to your car if you were to attempt to do this.
Does this procedure work for the 2013 Nissan Quest? Is there a different schematic? Do you have a link for the correct? Just replaced the alternator and the battery, still having charging issues. Not ready to replace the ipdm.
@@FixyourNissan well I’m installing a car audio system a 2500 watt system so I upgraded my alternator with a high output alternator and I use 1/0 gauge power wire from alt. To battery then I run 1/0 body to ground frame to ground and engine to ground. But if I have one of the ecm controlled alternators will it be defeating the propose of having a high output alternator?
@@shaunbialek7252 Do not change the factory alternator for this upgrade. You want to add a battery isolator and use either a large capacitor or a 2nd battery for the Audio system. I can't tell you how many times I have seen upgraded Alternators installed and never work properly and actually start causing charging system issues. It's better to do this modification for it to constantly charge for a second battery, than to put an upgraded Alternator in and cause issues
Hi there Getting a highoutput alternator will fix the problem? I mean I have a Nissan versa 2018 and I buy an alternator 15vsetpoint for it but I have not installed yet, Do I will have any problems? Thank uuu
If your vehicle is a 18, I would think it's still covered under warranty if you are having charging system issues. These newer models can charge more. This is video works to take the computer control out of certain cars.
@@FixyourNissan I’ve replaced the alternator and battery twice on my 03 g35 it’s drives for a few hours and dies out to where I have to get a jump or get the battery charged will this help me
@@liltonyb21 You do not have a Ecm controlled Alternator on a 2003. Most common reason why it's not charging is that you are getting a Aftermarket Alternator. They are known not to work properly. You want to get the Alternator form the dealer.
Yes, I have all of that. You would need to request me here in the Evenings. I will be more than happy to provide you with what you need to make this modification. www.justanswer.com/car/expert-jay1/?rpt=3800
@@FixyourNissan I've followed the link but haven't been able to catch you. I also have a 2011 infiniti M56 and work exactly 7.8 miles from my house. Is there a better way to contact you or do you have specific hours where I can find you? I would like to get this done as soon as possible.
I came here because a non charging 2007 g35 (v36 chassis). The G lets water come down the windshield and straight into the battery compartment. After a few years of some grime and leaves, the drain will clog and water will accumulate. anything more than an inch could make IPDM partially malfunction. Im having a no charging situation in combination with non responsive dash gauges/lights, and out of all weird things: the clock.
I took a plastic coated coat hanger and made a rod out of it. Push it down under the battery tray and a few inches away from the module. Z has the exact same problems. I also drilled a little drain hole or 2 in the fiberglass plastic battery tray. My bolts were half gone from rust. A chipmunk had packed acorns in there too. The drain holes in the frame are there, but you gotta find and unstop them. You can tell when the coat hanger touches the right fender liner/splash shield. Coat everything in WD-40 or something to prevent rust.
It's running 14.5 ish most of the time...was just curious before I deliver the car.. the ipdm is not sending the signal and not charging at all before I did this mod to a 2010 maxima.
I can not get the battery light to show up on my instrument cluster unless I ground the pin. When I ground it out the brake light and battery light come on. What would cause the light to never illuminate?
Hey Jay, I’ve got the problem on a 2011 QX 56. I tried to locate the wire for the ECM. I think I did but I couldn’t get the connector out so I just put it back together. I ended up disconnecting the connection to the sensor at the negative battery terminal that reads the current usage. I disconnected that connector and now the alternator seems to run 13 to 14 V when idle. Seems like that’s what I wanted. Do you think there’s a problem with how I’ve gone about it? Or will this work? What else might need that current sensor that I don’t know about. Thank. Ben in Kansas City.
Any updates? I just unplugged it too but my alternator died in less than 2 months. It was a refurbished one from Autozone so I don't know if was related or just a coincidence.
@@desarioe This does work if you have removed the correct wire from the IPDM. Do not use this video as to what wire color. You would need a wiring diagram for your car to know which wire to remove from the IPDM
@@FixyourNissan yes I have shop key I have access to oem wiring diagrams...don't wanna get into a whole thing here great video thanks for the info just trying to pass on more information
If the alternator is not charging at all, that may be an alternator issue. I would suggest to have this properly checked. If you do need an alternator, do not get one from an auto parts store. They are known to never work properly or last. Get the part from the dealer.
I got my alternator from Goodyear Auto and it died in less than 2 months. They replaced it under warranty and in so many words told me they won't do it again. Cost $600. If The dealers didn't want almost $1,300 after tax i would have went with them in the first place.@@FixyourNissan
After putting about a thousand miles on my 2011 Infiniti G37S Sedan LE this past year, this issue finally caught up to me. I replaced my car battery in the fall of 2019 and then again a few weeks ago while troubleshooting this issue. The auto parts store said the alternator seemed fine but suggested that I take it to the local Nissan dealership to get the charging system checked out. I found this video and the solution and description was PERFECT. The hardest part for me was removing the box that holds the assembly that the connector plugs into from the retainer in the engine bay and then snapping it back in when I was done. The cable bundle is very tight and doesn't seem like it wants to move but as soon as you get it moving, it had about 4 to 6 inches of slack. After I was done, I had to stick my hand back down under the box and kind of guide the cable back down so that it would click back into the retainer. Thanks for the help Jay!!!
Thank you for making this detailed video. Your wiring diagram is for a 2008 G37 Coupe, that is the exact car I have. I noticed everything was the same when I looked at my diagrams and saw yours were identical down to the fact is says G37 Coupe in your video. Harness looks identical as well. So it is almost like you made this video to help me haha! This made the task a lot clearer. I appreciate it!!
For anyone wondering where this connector is in the IPDM, because there are two similar connectors, if you go to page PG-93 in the service manual it has a diagram of the IPDM and the connector you are looking for is the one on the right when you are looking at the front of the IPDM. The 76 wire is on the top side of that connector.
You helped me immensely fixing my charging circuit today! Thanks so much for your patient help. Saved me the effort of an alternator swap!
You are very welcome!
Thank u mate . U saved my life . After 4 battery in the last 2 years u solved my problem .
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching
Hey Jay. I gotta say thanks. I watched your video. Pulled schematics, and harness diagrams for my 2011 M37X and pulled the wire called out per the schematic, and no more dead battery. I appreciate your guidance. I was beyond frustrated using a NOCO booster all the time.
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
What color wire did you pull and from which wiring harness
@@bornfree3472 hey, wish I could help. I just can't remember. It was 2 years ago. And I sold it just over a year ago. I know the location was located behind the batter against the firewall on the passenger side. I think I have the manual. Let me look, and see if I can jog my memory.
@@bornfree3472 I have the schematics, I can email to you. So you can chase it down. If you want?
Wish i had something like this for my Toyota Fielder =( Voltage only being close to 14 at cold start is frustrating. If you have any idea where I can find some help for my vehicle & disabling/bypassing this please let me know. Thanks & great vid!
Thank you very much Jay!! I did this on my 2011 Infiniti g25x. I rolled the dice and followed the video exactly and it was apparently the exact same as whatever diagram you showed in the video. My voltage now sits at least 14.2 to 14.5. the reason I wanted to do this mod is not because I was having issues with my battery dying it's because I have a massive stereo system in my car so keeping the battery in prime condition is a must. I just have one more question for anyone who may be able to answer it. Now that I have completed this mod does the voltage sensor that goes around the negative battery cable still have a function? Or can I remove it or bypass it to run a larger ground wire? For the best functionality of a car audio system it's imperative that you run a bigger wire from the alternator to the battery, from the battery to chassis ground and from the engine to chassis ground, I have 1/0 Gauge wire and it simply will not fit through that little ring/sensor. Any help or comments would be much appreciated!
I bypassed it completely in my titan and left the sensor itself hooked up and was able to handle a 3500 watts system on stock alt and two agms
@@karlzink5757 thanks for your reply. I have since done the same thing and I am also running two excess power d3400 batteries. Voltage is Rock solid on 3000 Watts RMS between the mids and highs and the sub amps.
Does anyone know where I can find the IPDM wiring diagram for a 2019 Infiniti QX80?
hello it works for a nissan murano 2010.? .. just disconnecting the ping from the Ipdm.? The battery light and the brake light turn on alternately, thank you very much
Did this work? I have the same issue. Battery finally drained after having the lights coming on intermittently for about 30 days.
Hey Hello by chance was that info for a 2013 Infinity Q56
Thanks a lot for the trick 😁 is it the same wire for the maxima 2010 ?
Pin 76 at the IPDM and it's Sky Blue
This video looks very helpful. I have a 2013 JX35 with apparently the same issue. I have no idea where to get the wiring diagram like you have there. Do you have a source I could access? Thanks
Thanks for watching. If you read below my video, I explain how you can contact me, and I can share the wiring diagram to help you
Hi Jay. Good job. Just watched your video on youtube about removing the alternator control wire from the IPDM. I have some questions about this control circuit. I know it is PWM control. Does the alternator regulator supply the voltage on this control wire to the IPDM, and the IPDM toggles it on and off to ground to create the PWM control signal? Or does the IPDM supply both the voltage and PWM pulse to the regulator control terminal? If you Unplug the regulator connector, KOER, Which way would V come from? Thank you sir.
Hi Jay, is okay for my nissan bluebird slyphy G11?
I have similar problem and I thankyou for video
You are very welcome
Hi Jay can you provide the diagram for nissan bluebird slyphy BDA G11. I searched but could not find it. Thankyou 🙏
Wow, exactly the info I was looking for, thanks! My Nissan hasn't let the battery go completely flat, but doesn't keep it well charged at all - there's obviously some charging going on, but the car gets driven once or twice a week, and for short trips. Now I realise the black component that surrounds the battery negative cable is a current sensor, and the charging voltage is adjusted by the car. I might give this mod a try. So is the control signal from the IPDM to the alternator PWM?
Great help, thank you. You from Jersey? What exit? LOL
Thanks for watching!..no longer in Jersey!.. Moved to PA
Great stuff here Jay. I'm interested in what the actual fix was from Nissan /Infiniti ? The dead battery issues reared it's head for many , blamed on the short trips , blamed on the Expansion Valve Assembly having to heavy of a draw when shut down , they were replacing them with a new part # , giving people new batteries as well if under warranty and also re mapping of the ECU ......I get the idea of the part , I get the idea of the battery and it being bigger with more reserve but what did the remapping do to fix the issue ? Did it make the alternator kick in quicker than before or sooner ? This fix you posted is this the same thing just done with a mechanical action rather than an ecu remapping ? Thanks for all you do it is appreciated .
Is this the same for a 06 Armada? I've gone thru 2 batteries since December, currently on my 3rd. I rarely drive the truck.
You don't have an Ecm Controlled Alternator on your year Armada.
hey jay... i'm the guy that you are on chat with.
It was nice chatting with you Carl!
Jay, I appreciate your video. Which wire is it if you are having battery drain on a 2011 m37 that doesn't get driven over the 8 mile mark all the time. Do you have a wire diagram?
Is it the brown wire that is the 3rd wire down(under pinkish/red and then blue wire) on the left side clip when it is facing the front of the vehicle?
Where is this located on the 2003 Altima 3.5?? Is that diagram showing the connection all the same for nissan's? would pin #27 be the same wire on the 03 Altima 3.5?? The only place I've seen a connector that looks like that is on my ECM
Could you tell me what wire I need to remove in a 2016 QX50? Is it light green? Blue?
Thank you thank you thank you, you saved me at least one or two hundred bucks on labor 😂❤️✌️
Hey Jay, are you able to tell me if this works for a 2016 QX70? If so where can I find the diagrams for my model and year, thank you
Can you tell me which wire I need to pull for a 2010 QX56...Thanks
2010 is the old body style. It does not have a Ecm Controlled Alternator. 2011 and Up do!
Hey jay how are you doing great tutorial . I have a 2017 Altima on bags and about 2000 watts rms would this be a good idea to do to my car since I see the current drop . I done the big 3 upgrade and also have 0g wire to my amps . If u recommended do u know what’s the easiest way to do it ? I see I have a sensor on my factory ground wire witch I’m assuming that’s the battery current sensor . Thanks in advance
2013 infinity qx56 constant dead battery not starting. Mechanic can’t figure it out. Is there a way to disconnect the smart feature from the battery end ?
Thanks
I'm planning to use an Infiniti?Nissan IPDM alternator that I will be fitting to my older Maxima, how can I modify the alternator wiring itself to bypass the IPDM ?
I have g35 2005 not charging battery. I can't find the same connector like on your video. I have ecm f108 connector. can you tell me please which wire position I need to disconnect? it looks totally different. thanks
2005 is not a Ecm controlled Alternator. So if it's not charging, you need a Alternator.
Yes I think is true I take out almost all the cables in the ipdm 2005 infiniti g35x and continue doing the same and turn off the car sometimes make me crazy, I think next step Change the alternator
Thanks for the video. Good detail with the diagrams and all. one question though. Once you identify the wire in the harness for the module wouldnt it be simpler to just cut it ? a safe distance from the connector obviously, in case you ever wanted to hook it back up. I dont see the advantage of pulling the terminal when all you want to do is cut the feed from the alternator. Also will cutting this wire cause the PCM to set a code when it cant "see" the alternator anymore? sorry guess that was two questions....
+Ian Nicoll I never like to cut a wire unless I have to. This way if you ever wanted to put it back, you only need to un-tape where I had it folded back and just snap it back in instead of doing a wire repair.
+FixyourNissan And are there any PCM code "side effects" ?
+Ian Nicoll None, you would never know it was done unless you inspect it for this.
Hello Jay.
I have a 2011 QX56 that won't keep the battery charged. I saw your video about removing the wire from the ECM plug and I wondered if you could tell me what wire it is on this year and model? After removing this wire, what keeps it from overcharging and frying the battery?
Do you not drive it much or drive it short distances?
@@FixyourNissan
Yes, always short distances.
@@adamnicholas1989 Red Wire, Pin 33 in the IPDM
@@FixyourNissan Thank you! I'll give it a try.
@@FixyourNissan Do you have a picture of this harness plug that shows which pin is 33?
Thx for the info, I have a 2012 m56 but my daily is a 99 toyota 4runner. I drive the car a few times a month and I've replaced the battery about 3 times. I'll try this on the weekend. again thx so much.
bad news I tried this and I thought it worked when I put the car back together, once i was done and was going to turn the car off it wouldn't shut off. I had to remove the negative battery terminal just to use the start button to turn the car off.
Did you figure this out my friend?
@FixyourNissan thankyou sir for such an informative video.
Do you by a chance know if this is the same harness for a 2021 infiniti qx80?
@FixyourNissan what wire is it for 2013 Nissan murano?
Hi, Can i do this on a 2013 JX35 and what wire is it.Thank you.
Yes you can. Thank you for watching
What # pin is the alternator inside the IPDM of my 2017 QX60????
I have a 2013 M37x which wire color or pin number and connector should i be looking. Im in a doosie on this one. Please help.
Awesome video Jay! From the comments I have read, it sounds like my 2002 I35 may be too old to have computer controlled charging?
Hey jay just curious is this possible for a 2013 Nissan Maxima sv?
I have a question, once you do this, the battery light will remain ON all the time? Thank you
Nope.. You will still only get a Battery light if the Alternator stops charging. This will not cause a Battery light
FixyourNissan thank you so much
@@OP-ik7qb You are welcome!
Im late to the party, but can you advise whether or not the alternator is controlled by the ecm on my 2007 maxima 3.5 (with the shitty bose system)? Ive been searching and searching
Ive bought a high output alt for a 2014 rogue, the alt has the same IC regulator and behaves exactly like the stock except for much more amperage. in cold weather it charges at 14.5 and hot weather 13.9, and when i unplug the alt harness its at 14.2 BUT the battery light comes on. is there any way to get that higher (14.5) on demand like when i turn on the my rather large sound system?
14.3 is around the normal charging system voltage. Here is a way you can verify it's charging system voltage
th-cam.com/video/O5cp7G4EadA/w-d-xo.html
Hey mister i have a question, my battery is chargin 17volts nd i dont know if the ecm is the one who controls the voltage ecm or alternator?
Will this work on my convertible 2010 370z, I am on my 6th battery in 4 months?
Yes as long as you disable the correct wire
I got a 2011 titan and I drive 3 miles to work. My bullydog tuner shows voltage at 14 and fluctuates as I drive does this mean there is no pcm control on my truck?
This truck has a Battery Current Sensor. But does have a wire going from the Alternator to the IPDM. So I have not done this mod on these newer Titan's, so I can say it works. But it is controlled
@@FixyourNissan I just unplugged it but I have a .850ma draw so my battery is dead overnight anyways. Disconnected each cable to the fusible link and nothing changes
Can I just cut the wire or do I need to do it the way its shown in the video?
I never like to cut wires unless I have to. But you can.
@@FixyourNissan thanks I did and capped both end. But my car still do the same thing charge at 14.28v than drop back down 11.19v when car warms up I have new battery and alternator. Do you think I have a faulty alternator
@@ronaldwilliams2102 What year and Model Nissan or Infiniti is this?
I know this is a old video but there's a easier way to stop the ecm from controlling the alternator. Just unplug the connector from the battery sensor that's on the negative battery cable.
That will not work. This video does not help some of the newer models with the battery sensor.
@@FixyourNissan Works for Nissan and Infiniti up until 2014 that uses battery sensor. Not sure if they use same charging system after that. Unplugging the sensor disables the ecm power command. The alternator defaults to its own regulator.
Do you have a diagram for a 2017 Sentra SR Turbo by chance?
I have a 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R 2.5L and the voltage drops below 13v at idle in traffic. It only ever goes to 13.8 even at 80mph around 3000rpm. This is a 2 part question, one, is this model one that your video applies to, and two, should I replace my alternator? Thanks in advance!
Any updates?
Can you tell me to be able to do it in a mazda protege 5 year 2003 automatic 2.0 engine
Does this works for a 2010 Nissan Maxima V6 3.5l???
Yes it does
@@FixyourNissan great thanks 👍
This didn’t work for my Nissan maxima 2011. Still shows alt duty cycles off zero percent
Hello jay will this work for a 2013 Nissan juke nismo if not do you have the diagram or well unplugging the sensor on the negative battery terminal work?
Yes, this would work on your Juke. But this is only to be done if you do not drive it often. Inbox me and I will share the wiring diagram
@@FixyourNissanwhat is the danger of doing this on my 13 Murano if i drive it regularly? I drive about 50-80 km a day.
@@nakhz MPG will be affected, and that is all.
Thank you for your reply. Which wire would it be for my 13 Murano SV AWD? @@FixyourNissan
@@nakhz Pin 76 at the IPDM is your wire. That is the Sky Blue wire
Does the 2017 Nissan Sentra sr turbo have one too?
Hey would you have a diagram for a 2011 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0
Great information
Thank you for watching
Hello, I hope you're doing good can you please teach me how to do it on my 2019 Nissan Armada because I spend to much on the dealership with no solutions I'm being frustrated on my Nissan I bought it last Sept and after 2 months the problem occurs. I almost jump started it every other day the dealer suggest to reprogram or update it didn't solve, they changed the two switches on the brake it still the same. I hope you can help me thanks
This does not apply to your year Armada I am afraid. Thanks for watching
Hi Jay, I want to do this because I don’t drive the car often and when I do,it’s usually only short trips. I am dealing with battery drain all the time. Before going ahead with this mod, could you check for me that the wiring diagram you showed is the same for my car? I have a 2014 Infiniti Q60 IPL. It’s the same body style as a G37 and parts are usually all the same, but if you could just verify that’d be great.
Sorry for the late reply. I have not been online much these days. Did you still need this information?
@@FixyourNissanyes please
@@CPlockout Pin 76 - Yellow wire in the IPDM
@@CPlockout www.justanswer.com/car/expert-jay1/?rpt=3800 - Ask me here. I am normally available after 7 pm EST and online until 10 pm EST
Does this work on a 08 armada?
2008 g37 here. same battery issue. my question is will doing this trick and having the alternator on all the time have any bad effects?
i have a 08 g35 did you end up doing this?
I am going to try this option by removing number 76 (yellow wire) on the diagram on the IPDM. This will allow the alternator to charge constantly. I will see if this will solve my parasitic draw on my 2008 G37 Coupe. Changed the Vent control valve no luck. No electrical or electronic issues, just a drained battery. I will only drive the car about 17-20 miles once or twice a week, then the battery dies in one in a half days if I don’t use a tender. I have been using a battery tender all these years. I don’t think it is a ECM problem either, but will try this option first.
Hi Jay, will this work with a 2008 G37 coupe?
Yes it will.
How about for a 2011 SR 3.5 Altima?
I'd love to be able to tip you out.
Will this work for my car to stop shutting off
No it will not
Hi I need to find out what Color white I need to remove on a 2011 Nissan Maxima 3.5
I left info with the question on how to contact me
Can i do this for nissan bluebird slyphy BDA G11?
Sorry, I don't know what year Slyphy you have and I don't have the wiring diagram to see if this can be done
Hey brother, on my 2014 nissan maxima that pin 76 says the signal name is ALT C.... Is that the right one to remove??
Yes, It should be the Sky Blue wire
@FixyourNissan Thanks man!! Got everything running correctly, but the battery warning light on dash will not go off🤔
@@mdpatrick2225 that may mean that the alternator is not charging
@FixyourNissan It's charging... Took readings at idle(14.8), then turned on lights/highbeams, air conditioning, etc, only dropped to 14.7. It's a 320A high output alternator with 14.8 setpoint so its charging perfectly.... Since I'm using the aftermarket high output alternator and different voltage regulator besides oem, the warning light for battery will always illuminate I found out
@@mdpatrick2225 That is high. If this is a Nissan or Infiniti. That is over charging
If I just disconnect my green ipdm wire from the alternator will it do the same thing
You want to make sure you are disconnecting the correct wire using the proper wiring diagram. Also you only want to do this to cars that are not driven very often.
Hey, so maybe you can help me I've been working on an 2006 Infiniti m35x with a charging problem. The battery is new the alternator has been replaced and I got myself a IPDM from the scrap yard in the car still won't charge. All the fuses relays and circuits are working fine, I'm lost.
P.s. when I disconnect the electrical connector from the alternator the indicator light in the dash goes away. send it stay on?
For a issue like yours, you are better off asking me here www.justanswer.com/car/expert-jay1/?rpt=3800
I can’t find the right diagram for my 2008 infiniti g37 can you help with tha please and great video !!!
Hi I'm having a similar problem with my 2007 g35, wondering if you ever sorted out your problem?
I have a 2009 maxima. My number 76 is silver n blue. According to the manual it's the same as your yellow. I did this same thing and it's still being controlled somehow. I have a 390 amp alternator from Js alternator. Nissan installed it. A pigtail came with it. Most guys have the sense wire over the alternator post and the L wire going to the fuse box. Nissan wired it into the factory plug wiring. I was told that's why it's still being controlled. I don't see how with this wire disconnected. At idle with no load the voltage drops to 13.2v n just sits there. If I turn the AC on it goes up. Same if I rev the gas.
Hello and thank you for watching. Pin 76 at the IPDM should be a Sky Blue wire. This is the wire that does control the Alternator. Now if you have replaced the Alternator with an aftermarket alternator, they are known to never work properly. So if it's not charging, don't think it's the Ecm controlling it. It's normally because it's aftermarket. I strongly suggest you get the Alternator from the dealer if it ever requires replacement. Aftermarket Alternators only tend to last 6 months or less, if you even get one that works.
So, this way we can use the PCM controlled Alternator in non PCM Controlled car right? Because I am not able to find the alternator for my car i.e J31 Nissan teana and able to find the one that fits in J32 teana. The difference between the two Alternators are one J31 has 110 A alternator with two pin wires i.e. L/S (Lamp and Signal) and the other one that fits in J32 has 130 A with three pins i.e. C/L/S (Computer control, Lamp, Signal). So can i remove the Computer signal wire and use the J32 alternator in J31?
Did you figure this out my friend?
Hey would it be simple to just cut the wire???
I do not like to have to cut a wire unless you have to. Removing the pin, allows you to put it right back to factory with out doing any wire cut or repair
Can we cut the IPDM line from Alternator directly and just run 2 wire instead of 3 wire pigtail. 2012 Nissan Maxima here.
New Alternator, Belt, New Battery, and clean/tight connection. Alternator isnt charging. Killed 2 batteries during testing.
Most likely due to an aftermarket Alternator. It's very common for Aftermarket Alternators not to work
You can cut the one Ecm control wire. But just give yourself room on the wire that if you want to reconnect it you can
Please keep in mind. This wiring diagram is not for all models & not all Models apply. Always best to have the correct wiring diagram to your car if you were to attempt to do this.
FixyourNissan please the diagram for m56 2011
Does this procedure work for the 2013 Nissan Quest? Is there a different schematic? Do you have a link for the correct? Just replaced the alternator and the battery, still having charging issues. Not ready to replace the ipdm.
will this work on my 2005 350z vq35de
This does not apply to your year 350z. Thanks for watching
Excellent thanks
I’m pretty sure my 2006 Nissan Titan is this way if I do this well I be able to do a big 3 upgrade?
What do you mean by big 3 upgrade?
@@FixyourNissan well I’m installing a car audio system a 2500 watt system so I upgraded my alternator with a high output alternator and I use 1/0 gauge power wire from alt. To battery then I run 1/0 body to ground frame to ground and engine to ground. But if I have one of the ecm controlled alternators will it be defeating the propose of having a high output alternator?
@@shaunbialek7252 Do not change the factory alternator for this upgrade. You want to add a battery isolator and use either a large capacitor or a 2nd battery for the Audio system. I can't tell you how many times I have seen upgraded Alternators installed and never work properly and actually start causing charging system issues. It's better to do this modification for it to constantly charge for a second battery, than to put an upgraded Alternator in and cause issues
@@FixyourNissan ok well I did add a 2nd battery but I haven’t added the isolater yet but will do thanks for the help
Do you know which color it is in a 2014 qx60? I barely drive it. Maybe 5 -6 miles. Keeps killing batteries
Light Green
@@FixyourNissan Thank you sir! Got a project for tomorrow.
what wire do i need to remove to do this on a 2005 Nissan Altima with a 3.5 v6
2005 Does not have a Ecm Controlled Alternator
Hi there
Getting a highoutput alternator will fix the problem?
I mean I have a Nissan versa 2018 and I buy an alternator 15vsetpoint for it but I have not installed yet,
Do I will have any problems?
Thank uuu
If your vehicle is a 18, I would think it's still covered under warranty if you are having charging system issues. These newer models can charge more. This is video works to take the computer control out of certain cars.
@@FixyourNissan I’ve replaced the alternator and battery twice on my 03 g35 it’s drives for a few hours and dies out to where I have to get a jump or get the battery charged will this help me
@@liltonyb21 You do not have a Ecm controlled Alternator on a 2003. Most common reason why it's not charging is that you are getting a Aftermarket Alternator. They are known not to work properly. You want to get the Alternator form the dealer.
They cost too much. Dealers in Maryland are talking over $1200 for a "new" alternator. Even chain shops.@@FixyourNissan
Would it work the same way if you cut the control-wire at the alternator?
You never want to cut wires. You want to disable them.
@@FixyourNissan Let me rephrase, would it work the same way if you unpin the control-wire at the alternator?
@@ArlingtonBettas What year and model Nissan or Infinit?
@@FixyourNissan 2010 Nissan Murano.
@@ArlingtonBettas That is the SkyBlue wire at the alternator that goes to pin 76 at the IPDM
Hello - Do you have access to specific year/make diagrams so I know the exact pin location and wire color? If so, it's a 2011 Infiniti M56
Yes, I have all of that. You would need to request me here in the Evenings. I will be more than happy to provide you with what you need to make this modification.
www.justanswer.com/car/expert-jay1/?rpt=3800
@@FixyourNissan I've followed the link but haven't been able to catch you. I also have a 2011 infiniti M56 and work exactly 7.8 miles from my house. Is there a better way to contact you or do you have specific hours where I can find you? I would like to get this done as soon as possible.
@@ullrobot You would need to inbox me
@@FixyourNissan hmm...can't seem to figure out how...
@@ullrobot Email me at FixUrNissan@gmail.com
I came here because a non charging 2007 g35 (v36 chassis). The G lets water come down the windshield and straight into the battery compartment. After a few years of some grime and leaves, the drain will clog and water will accumulate. anything more than an inch could make IPDM partially malfunction. Im having a no charging situation in combination with non responsive dash gauges/lights, and out of all weird things: the clock.
Sounds like the drains in your wiper cowl area are clogged causing your issue.
I took a plastic coated coat hanger and made a rod out of it. Push it down under the battery tray and a few inches away from the module. Z has the exact same problems. I also drilled a little drain hole or 2 in the fiberglass plastic battery tray. My bolts were half gone from rust. A chipmunk had packed acorns in there too. The drain holes in the frame are there, but you gotta find and unstop them. You can tell when the coat hanger touches the right fender liner/splash shield. Coat everything in WD-40 or something to prevent rust.
So you cant just cut and tape the yellow wire?
No, there is a certain wire you want to remove. Be sure you remove the correct one
Will this ever cause the car to overcharge?
No, the most common thing that can cause an over charging issue would be an aftermarket Alternator.
It's running 14.5 ish most of the time...was just curious before I deliver the car.. the ipdm is not sending the signal and not charging at all before I did this mod to a 2010 maxima.
I can not get the battery light to show up on my instrument cluster unless I ground the pin. When I ground it out the brake light and battery light come on. What would cause the light to never illuminate?
If you turn the key to the ON position, does the light come on?
@@FixyourNissan key on engine off no battery light light on in cluster.
The only way I can force the light on is by grounding the brown leg on the alternator pigtail.
@@codyguidry9980 What year and Model Nissan or Infiniti? Also did you check all fuses with a test light?
@@FixyourNissan 2009 Nissan Murano. I checked all of the fuses. Is the combination meter a part of the instrument cluster? Is there a way to test it?
Hey do you have any idea if this would work on a 2013 Nissan Altima. If so where can I find a diagram that's laid out like the one in this video.
I am sure it can. As to where you get the info, you would need to buy a factory manual or you can inbox me and I will see if I have it for you.
Can you just cut the wire an tape it
You can, But I never like to cut wires
Hey Jay, I’ve got the problem on a 2011 QX 56. I tried to locate the wire for the ECM. I think I did but I couldn’t get the connector out so I just put it back together. I ended up disconnecting the connection to the sensor at the negative battery terminal that reads the current usage. I disconnected that connector and now the alternator seems to run 13 to 14 V when idle. Seems like that’s what I wanted. Do you think there’s a problem with how I’ve gone about it? Or will this work? What else might need that current sensor that I don’t know about. Thank. Ben in Kansas City.
what wire did you think that it was?
Any updates? I just unplugged it too but my alternator died in less than 2 months. It was a refurbished one from Autozone so I don't know if was related or just a coincidence.
do a 2012 mazda 6 2.5 l next
Is this bad design or what?
No it is designed to improve fuel economy
Why cant i just cut it?
You could, but it's a cleaner way of doing the modification so you can put it right back with out disturbing any wires.
Why not just cut that yellow wire and call it a day... 😒
This did not work for me..
What year and Model Nissan or Infiniti did you try this on?
@@FixyourNissan 09 g37x
@@desarioe This does work if you have removed the correct wire from the IPDM. Do not use this video as to what wire color. You would need a wiring diagram for your car to know which wire to remove from the IPDM
@@FixyourNissan yes I have shop key I have access to oem wiring diagrams...don't wanna get into a whole thing here great video thanks for the info just trying to pass on more information
Hello, will this work on a 2015 Infiniti QX60? Thanks
I have a 2008 infinity qx56 my alternator won't charge at all and is the wire that runs to the ipdm supposed to have voltage
If the alternator is not charging at all, that may be an alternator issue. I would suggest to have this properly checked. If you do need an alternator, do not get one from an auto parts store. They are known to never work properly or last. Get the part from the dealer.
I got my alternator from Goodyear Auto and it died in less than 2 months. They replaced it under warranty and in so many words told me they won't do it again. Cost $600. If The dealers didn't want almost $1,300 after tax i would have went with them in the first place.@@FixyourNissan
What wire do I need to pull for a 2012 m37x?
Before I tell you the wire, please explain the reason you are doing this to determine if this will work for you
Will this work on 06 xterra ?? Thanks
It may. I have never done it on a Xterra. But it's the Yellow Wire going from the IPDM to the Alternator. If it doesn't work. Simply put it back.
@@FixyourNissan for sure it’s the yellow wire ? 06 xterra . Thanks