IT HAS BEEN POINTED OUT THAT THE HOUSE WRAP WOULD FUNCTION BETTER IN THIS SITUATION WITH THE FACE WITH WRITING ON IT PLACED AGAINST THE WALL. THAT IS OPPOSITE OF WHAT IS SHOWEN IN MY VIDEO AND I WOULD AGREE. SORRY FOR THE MIX UP!
HouseImprovements what do you think of the idea of applying a liquid membrane ( like the one we apply when we do a shower) on the concrete before insulating ?
I'm planning on using dmx on the floor. I was thinking about using the pink board and using the plastic to go over it and tuck the end under the dmx.... Sound like a terrible idea?
@homeimprovements if i have an interior channel sump drainage system what vapor barrier can I use that will accommodate that? Right now there is about 12 inches of black dimpled material, but id like to frame walls and "finish" the basement. Thank you.
Thank you Shannon. I was especially glad to see your comment of placing the lettering of the house wrap towards the concrete wall as house wrap is kind of like Gortex - repels the moisture on the lettering side but allows vapour to pass from the other side (inside the home) outward. All too often people get this wrong and they set themselves up for a mess i.e. mold. Nice to have you as a one stop site to get all the information accurately. Ottawa, Canada
FYI, Ontario building code requires rigid foam to be a minimum R10 to act as a vapour barrier. Check your local building codes before you begin your projects. Great video!!
Thanks for another great video! I'm installing a new upstairs bathroom and have a little penetrating damp through a stone chimney wall. The chimney is fully ventilated with a ventilated hood on the chimney pot, but some winter rain soaks through the render outside. Builders say there's no more we can do to improve it, so using your method I plan to add a moisture barrier with drainage for any dripping condensation. We don't have much room for thick studwork so I wondered : 1) Can the batten can be installed vertically 600mm apart 2) Moisture barrier stapled to the batten 3) A 2nd batten screwed on top of the first (possibly at 90 degrees) 4) Thin rigid foam added between the 2nd battens 5) Finished with a layer of vapour barrier sheetrock Really appreciate your advice, keep up the great work!
I have a basement that years ago was finished but years of sump pump failures had to rip of 2x4 walls drywall was all mold. Now just block walls on outside walls can l staple 6 mil plastic up against block walls then build a 2x2 or 2x4 walls?
great video that is why moisture barriers are more plastic based as the backing paper of pink panther insulation are air vapor barrior (now i finally see the difference)
You are "THE BEST"the most knowledgeable and gifted "BEST TEACHER". I have a question? I want to convert my cold room in basement to a store room. The cold room has a metal corugated cieling. Do you have any video that explains the whole process of insulating the cold room. Thanks
+Benny Hannah The idea is that if you get moisture it comes out at the floor where you can find it and know about it instead of it soaking into the insulation and drywall and starting to grow mould that you have no idea is there.
If I use rigid foam as the moisture barrier, do I still need to have batt insulation or is the rigid foam enough insulation for my basement? I live in the northeast so it get's cold. Also how is the rigid foam attached to the foundation? Does the rigid foam go from very top of the wall to the bottom or is there a gap on the top? Only 80% of my basement is below grade so wondering if I can skip the top 20% which is above grade. Last question, how does my wood frame attach to the rigid foam or is there a gap between the two? TIA
thanks, Take note that if using the house wrap, hanging it with the face side facing the concrete wall will be better. That was an over site on my part.
Great video final understand the difference between the two , where to uses one or the other in any situations foundation , attic , surrounding walls , bathroom ,...etc It is this understand of the theory and principals the install gets done quite the same ways... nice through explanation
The air vapor barrior paper sheets are for more preventing water in air moisture... the moisture barrior is more for preventing larger amount of foundation leaking water from outside in. Not the smaller issue of water from air humidity... thats why attics uses paper air barriors on the floor then the insulation rollout. The moisture barrior is more for foundations or bathrooms where larger amounts of water due not only humidity but water itself sources.
Why can't the Tyvek or Plastic barriers just be tacked to the base board at the top of the concrete wall? Why put the the wood strip below it? I assume it's just due to width of the sheets?
thank you very much for the wonderful video. I wonder how can I install the foam without removing the frame. I got a very old house, having issues with moisture in the wall. . thank you
Thank you, I just learned that the "Vapor" barrier and "Moisture" barrier are not the same. Years ago I was told by a carpenter that us folks up north put 'the' heavy mil plastic barrier on the inside of the walls and down south it goes on the outside. So I guess since then things have changed since there are two products that separately address vapor or moisture. I recently moved and will start framing in my basement walls. Since they are painted cement blocks and appear to never have had any water leaks or stains do I still need the moisture barrier? Harry
@@HouseImprovements hello Shannon- thanks for the awesome videos and info! I'm in NJ and I have mold on walls in basement which was due to hydrostatic pressure around my foundation which I've solved with a new French drain system... I had the mold remediated professionally and they "sealed" my walls with that special antimicrobial sealant/paint thing.. so would that in essence now serve as my moisture barrier? Or I'd still need one of these paths for the moisture barrier. Also the waterproofing companies I met with kept pushing for a "vapor" barrier but I think they really meant 'moisture' barrier? Also don't these barriers lock in the moisture thus leading to mold? Since the air needs to circulate to prevent mold growth. Please let me know your thoughts and responses to all this :-)
Great video! I Just gutted my den and found lots of damage to my moisture barrier. it looks to be nothign more than very thick aluminum foil. The house was built in the 70's so I guess that was code back then. I have a brick house and behind that damaged barrier was raw brick and nothign else. Can I replace that old school aluminum stuff with the rigid foam or should I hunt around for that same type of moisture barrier?
Awesome video, thank you for the explanation. Are there several types of foam to use? Any you recommend? I assume this is also applicable for basements with block walls.
Thanks Shannon. Then you would install the insulation vapour barrier and drywall after the moisture barrier. That's great. I've never seen moisture barrier before. Great video.
Thanks for the video. so, for spray foamed basement we don't need any vapor or moisture barrier to be installed before framing? and for floor base plate where foam is not sprayed, what we need to do? I do see that in my basement, foam is sprayed a little bit on the floor as well where baseplate is placed.
I have a few questions I'm about to renovate my basement and will be doing the following. For the tyvek wrap is the writing suppost to face outside against the wall? And my basement is already finished but will be ripping out the walls and redoing the insulation before drywall.. It doesn't have rigid foam board, is it even possible to add because its already framed?
The Tyvek is likely more effective with the writing towards the concrete. If there is enough space you may be able to add it. Depends how they originally did it. I would not spend the money on the foam unless you can get at least 1" in there. If you cant use foam then I would likely use Roxul batt insulation instead of regular batts, it has a little more R value.
It may help some, depends what is causing the humidity. We may be able to help more in the forum if you come over there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Great video, it was helpful to understand the purpose of moisture barriers. But I have few more question, I will be grateful if you could address them. I am in process of installing Luxurt Vinyl Planks flooring (LVP) and manufacturer recommends to use moisture barrier for underlayment. What kind of moisture barrier would you recommend as underlayment for installing the LVP flooring? We have 3 level including a concrete slab on level 1 and we will install LVPs in multiple rooms including bathrooms. Will it be okay to use house-wrap paper everywhere or would you recommend to use plastic on concrete slab and high moisture rooms (bathrooms) and then house-wrap paper for rest of the areas?
What if there is no ground on the other side of the wall, i e. cold side of the wall in contact with air? Do wee need moisture barrier? And can we use a rigid foam in this case?
@@HouseImprovements Thank you for reply. Would you consider making a video explaining all cases where the moisture barrier is needed or not? It would be nice if you could go through all cases of wall placement: above, below and half way below the grade and explain insulation rules and procedures. There are also cases when the concrete wall is below grade and is isolated by mineral wool inserted into wooden frame. As I remember correctly, one must have a min 25mm gap between the framing and concrete wall to provide ventilation. Anyways, if you would consider go through different cases based on given boundaries (above, below or and half way below grade) and give your thoughts on how to insulate based on these assumptions - that will be great
I don't have any leaks my basement walls just gets mouldy I have recently put a dehumidifier down there so it doesn't smell mouldy anymore but the is no visible water coming in so I have cleaned up what mould I did have and paint ed with a mould resistant paint now I want to put the foam frame and drywall
You are likely talking about "air/vapour barrier". It is a clear poly and is sold specifically for air/vapour barriers. It is installed on the warm side of insulation and under the drywall.
so the moisture from the living space wont make it past the overlaps? what about the moisture that comes thro the concrete wall will that tyvec still stop it? what about moisture that comes through the foam board? what would you do exactly if you were going to use the water gaurd that sits on the footer against the wall ?
In my area we use interior Vapour Barriers , those are what is supposed to stop moisture and air flow from inside the home from getting in the wall cavity . Moisture barriers against the inside of concrete wall are to direct moisture that comes through the concrete down to the floor so it does not soak your insulation. The 1" foam as a moisture barrier acts as the moisture barrier , some added insulation and keeps any warm moist air that gets through the vapour barrier from being able to condensate on the inside of the cold concrete wall. Very minimal amounts of that moisture may make it through ship lap edges. Taping those seams will help prevent that . If you have a french drain then you dont want to seal the bottom of the moisture barrier at the floor, just let it allow moisture to get to the drain.
@@HouseImprovements so what about warm moist air that gets thro the vapour barrior with the tyvec or moisture barrior wont it get past the overlaps and condensate on the concrete wall?
Depending on the rules in your area and the thickness of the foam you may not need it but if you do I would use a poly "smart barrier". There a couple different manufactures but Certainteed is one.
thank you I really need to put up some money saving doable at home insulation. and you're easy to understand for the average person n typical do it consumer
I'm using 2" 4×8 foam board panels. Can I fur out the walls over top of panels with 1×3 firing.Then finish the walls. I'm not sure i want to 2×4 frame wall in front. Don't think I need the extra r- value. Am I being to cheap? Think I would like to finish with some type of wood 🤔
Amazing videos...especially for a female DIYer. Hopefully you still see your messages for older videos. Quick question...I am putting up the 1in refective foam board on my cement wall but there is a metal water trap? that goes around the entire circumference on my basement floor. About 4in tall. Do I put the foam board over this trap to attach to my cement wall? Or leave this area open? Guess it's used to collect any water discharge from the wall.
@@simplymorgans Well that's good you planned ahead and there's a trap there. Though I can't help but wonder if having a water trap is a good or bad thing. I imagine the trap holds some water which could to turn into water vapor. That could contribute to higher humidity and therefore a damp basement.
if our crawl.space already has the cheap 6mm black builder's grade encapsulation would you need or should you remove that before you would install 15mm STEGOCRAWL? or can it go on top without causing a cat pee smell or other problems?
Moisture barrier is placed against the concrete basement wall to direct any minor moisture that comes through the concrete or frost that developed and melts to the floor. Vapour barrier is attached to the warm side of the basement wall framing under the drywall . It is sealed well all around and helps prevent warm moist air from getting in the wall cavity and also keeping cold drafts out of the house.
Love your videos but not letting me register into forum anyway Can I use floor paint product to encapsulate asbestos tile I want to install high end vinyl plank flooring over it?? Which paint do you recommend?
+SOCIALISM SOCIALIST That is were it is supposed to go, if it is excessive you have other problems likely. Cracked foundation or a leak. Sorry we do not have anything for that.
Question for you, I have a below grade wall that is getting moisture and water. I am going to patch where needed and Dryloc at least 2 coats. They install the insulation sheets like you showed in this video. Do I need any barrier after that or can I just frame my wall?
My basement has two side walls that are common with my neighbors and one that's facing the backyard. Do I need to insulate the common walls or just the outside one? Thanks.
In the case where my builder has already included insulation with the vapour barrier in the basement, do I rip it down and reinstall according to your instructions or do I just put up a wall in front of it and board it up? I don't think the builder has included a moisture barrier between the basement concrete wall and the pink insulation.
We have house wrap tucked into delta so any moisture or condensation goes into our interior waterproofing system. Just letting it hang wont that just let it drip to the floor and let moisture in and ruin your studs bottom plate?
Hello ,Paul here I would like to know before I start my basement reno the best insulation cost effective to ensure no mold . Right now my builder has put in the pink wool type should I just remove this or use once I get the studs in?
I have a brick house with 2x3 studs throughout. Im going to tear down the walls and put in roxul insulation and drywall over it. between the studs and outside wall is some tar paper or whatever they call it. Im wanting to put a vapor barrier over the roxul insulation. is that ok? also i'm in North Carolina.
also i'll be using furring strips vertically to bring the wall back out an inch. it currently has horizontal furring strips to support the vertical tongue and groove paneling.
+Vali Goaga The foam does not breath,it directs any moisture to the floor that migrates through the concrete. It also helps prevent any warm moist air that escapes from the interior of the home from being able to contact the cold concrete surface causing condensation and frost.
i live in canada, we have a cold cellar on basement. and moisture build up during winter and summer. cold cellar has 2 6inches holes on both side. i want to to totally shut it down because of molds growth. my problem is the door between the cellar is moisture build on the door. im thinking to put a Eps or Polyiso foam board to prevent from condensation on the door if that will help to stop moisture grow. or ij the future need to close the 6inch holes and isulates the wall on cold cellar. please help me which best to do for now. planning to seal the door first for now if that one will work is better to use a polyiso board with foil on both side? pe go for eps?
Best is insulating room and filling in venting holes if you're not using it as cool room any more. Filling in the venting holes for now will help keep it warmer and should stop or reduce the condensation. You can insulate the door for short term fix. Please use our forum if you have more questions.
That is the default "builder bag insulation" that needs to be installed by the builder on an unfinished basement so the owner can move in. That is not the insulation technique you want in a finished basement project however.
thanks a ton for this. I just reparged some loose concrete and one wall the masonry concrete has moisture, do I need to repair outside or can I use the techniques you've shown? it's a 100yr old home in minnesota. thanks!
+Kerrigan M This mostly to handle any frost from condensation in winter and minor leaks and moisture wicking through concrete that may develop over time but your main defence for water leaks is to be done from the exterior for sure.Sounds you may need water proofing from outside and even weeping tile and sump
Hi Shannon, One question I am refinishing Basement in end Condo Unit and plan of using 1" Fiberboard per your video on the three cement basement walls the see the exterior. The 4th basement wall separates my end condo from the next condo unit over. Is it necessary to fiber board the wall as well since it an interior wall. I don't think the next unit is finished or heated. At the very least I was thinking of putting a lower level of moisture barrier like sheathing to save some money. Is this needed. Your thoughts and feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Don
I would just install Roxul insulation in the wall cavity ,this will help with deadening sound transfer also. No vapour barrier or moisture barrier needed on an interior wall BTW.
I want to install insulation blankets in my basement but during heavy down pours I get water through my masonry blocks. Would it be ok to use the poly sheets to create a moisture barrier to protect the blankets before installing?
I used tar paper on my last project. The insulation can go right up against the barrier or should there be a gap, either between concrete and barrier, or barrier and insulation?
+cz3chmonkey ya tar paper is ok as long as it is good quality so it does not inhibit mould growth. Insulation is fine to be against it but usually there is a slight gap.
Ok, you have done the walls here and moisture (if it appears on concrete) goes down to the floor. But If you need to make a floor also, what would be the right way of installing floors after you've done the walls?
Shannon, any suggestions for my situation: the basement is already framed with no moisture barrier behind the studs. Does the framing have to be torn out, moisture barrier up and re-framed? Thanks!
Well first check if your area requires a moisture barrier and if it does I would try to get one pulled in between the studs and concrete , if you can't get it in there then I would use Roxul insulation or closed cell spray foam for insulation and not regular batt insulation which is effected if it gets wet.
@@HouseImprovements Am I understanding correctly that no moisture barrier is needed if you do Roxul insulation? If you can pull the moisture barrier between the studs and concrete, do you attach it to the stubs? Can they be touching? Thanks!
Hi Shannon u have tried to ask this question on you forum but I got no answer I don't know why so now I will ask here I am putting the 1" thick foam board on my basement walls I get a lot of moisture in my basement witch get some mould I have cleaned it build up around the outside to help water run away so is it ok to put the foam board on even if I may still get a little water ? Sorry so long lol
I don't seem to see this question in the forum? Anyways , you need to fix the water problem before finishing the basement . This foam or any moisture barrier are not made to control water leaks they are made to re direct moisture from frost or condensation and very minor water infiltration. Please use the forum again if you have more questions as I hardly ever check these comments.
Hopefully someone can answer this question for me. So I see all these videos and articles about insulating basment interior with rigid foam and then framing in front of it. But I can’t seem to find info that claims that is fire safe. Is having drywall in front of it what makes it fire safe? I’m getting ready to insulate my basment cinderblock walls but don’t want to use XPS if it isn’t fire safe.
I was wondering, can you paint the walls with drylock type product and then attach the rigid foam insulation right onto it? or do we need an air space between? I find contradicting information.
@DevJB lol this was a 5 year old question I never used drylock. Through my research I found its a worthless junky product. I sealed my walls and floor with radonseal before using ridgid foam
I am using plastic for the moisture barrier, and not sealing it. People keep telling me that it is going to create moisture. . . But if it isn't sealed is this a problem? We will be installing an airtight vapour barrier too. I don't want to have to rip up my walls 6 months after finishing the whole project. Where does the moisture go?
My basement is very dry, no moisture smell to begin with. Am I risking creating moisture that wouldn't be there by using a moisture barrier? We are using Poly-Tarp 6 plastic, the same thing we will use for the air-tight vapour barier on the other side. Attaching it at the top, on the outside of the framing, and running it down to near the floor, but not sealing it. It overlaps the plastic we used around the base-plates of our framing. Then every six feet or so, horizontally it overlaps another sheet, so it is not sealed at those points too, but just overlapping. . .
The answer depends on a few different variables. I''m in the process of finishing my basement and moisture barriers are not as simple as the video may have suggested. Just let me know if you want my take on things by replying to this comment or any other means necessary. I just hope you don't mess up your finishing job. By covering a concrete wall with a 'moisture barrier' you have the potential to create a double vapor barrier which is NOT what you want. BUT IT REALLY DEPENDS ON A FEW FACTORS. This whole moisture barrier topic is a complex topic which took me about 2 hours and a 32 page article to really 'truly' FINALLY understand.
@@HouseImprovements I'm not a fan of fiberglass batts. I'm really more a fan ROCKWOOL. It doesn't absorb moisture and is a hell of a lot more durable than fiberglass insulation. You wouldn't even need a "moisture barrier" with Rockwool (mineral wool insulation).
Same… seems building science is leaning towards no moisture barrier when using rockwool but do I still need the vapor barrier? It’s not the rockwool I’m worried about but the studs now. I’m thinking of using rockwool comfort board against the concrete, then framing and rockwool bat insulation and certianteed membrain vapor barrior. I’m in a mixed climate here in Wisconsin so it gets pretty warm summers with running the ac and very cold winters.
I really don’t understand how rigid foam or foam applications that are bassically air tight to the concrete are acceptable if the wall is supposed to breath… wouldn’t these applications be trapping excess moisture in the block/concrete thus accelerating the deterioration of the wall? Or is that just thinking too much into it? I’m in Wisconsin, and I’m debating if I should use 1” foam board and seal it all up good with tape and spray foam, or let it breath using 1” rock wool comfort board. Then obviously framing and more insulation in the cavity. But to take it one more step I was even going to use the certianteed membrain vapor barrier to allow air flow between season changes. Anyone got some concrete evidence to the best approach? ( pun intended ) :)
Great video as always Shannon. Feel so confident taking this on now!
IT HAS BEEN POINTED OUT THAT THE HOUSE WRAP WOULD FUNCTION BETTER IN THIS SITUATION WITH THE FACE WITH WRITING ON IT PLACED AGAINST THE WALL. THAT IS OPPOSITE OF WHAT IS SHOWEN IN MY VIDEO AND I WOULD AGREE. SORRY FOR THE MIX UP!
HouseImprovements what do you think of the idea of applying a liquid membrane ( like the one we apply when we do a shower) on the concrete before insulating ?
Serge Miller the walls have to breath so sealing the wall might cause the wall to erpde due tp the water building up behind it.
I'm planning on using dmx on the floor. I was thinking about using the pink board and using the plastic to go over it and tuck the end under the dmx.... Sound like a terrible idea?
@homeimprovements if i have an interior channel sump drainage system what vapor barrier can I use that will accommodate that? Right now there is about 12 inches of black dimpled material, but id like to frame walls and "finish" the basement. Thank you.
@@1kenpau1 The wall can breathe from the outside. Spray on foam doesn’t let it breathe but it’s considered the best way.
You guys have the most informative, well thought out videos on TH-cam. I look forward to the next one.
+Brian Simonetti Thank you.
Thank you Shannon. I was especially glad to see your comment of placing the lettering of the house wrap towards the concrete wall as house wrap is kind of like Gortex - repels the moisture on the lettering side but allows vapour to pass from the other side (inside the home) outward. All too often people get this wrong and they set themselves up for a mess i.e. mold. Nice to have you as a one stop site to get all the information accurately. Ottawa, Canada
FYI, Ontario building code requires rigid foam to be a minimum R10 to act as a vapour barrier. Check your local building codes before you begin your projects. Great video!!
Im in Ontario as well, do you know if we can use the rigid foam as a vapour barrier on the basement floor?
Once again, thank you for giving details and making professional videos!
+Lira Ziyad No problem thanks for watching
You have saved me THOUSANDS!!!
Thanks for another great video! I'm installing a new upstairs bathroom and have a little penetrating damp through a stone chimney wall. The chimney is fully ventilated with a ventilated hood on the chimney pot, but some winter rain soaks through the render outside. Builders say there's no more we can do to improve it, so using your method I plan to add a moisture barrier with drainage for any dripping condensation. We don't have much room for thick studwork so I wondered :
1) Can the batten can be installed vertically 600mm apart
2) Moisture barrier stapled to the batten
3) A 2nd batten screwed on top of the first (possibly at 90 degrees)
4) Thin rigid foam added between the 2nd battens
5) Finished with a layer of vapour barrier sheetrock
Really appreciate your advice, keep up the great work!
Excellent guidance and representation on these products.thank you for this video!
Beautiful video. made things cleared up regarding basement insulation. Thank you.
Clear and direct! Thanks for this
understand this so much more now. Thank you!!
Thank you very much. Very clear information and easy to follow. Thumbs up 👍
Great video. I like the explanation of small details. He must have apprentices.
I work by myself
Thanks for clarifying the difference between vapour and moisture barriers. Much better understanding of the function of each. :-)
+Tom Sorge you're welcome
I have a basement that years ago was finished but years of sump pump failures had to rip of 2x4 walls drywall was all mold.
Now just block walls on outside walls can l staple 6 mil plastic up against block walls then build a 2x2 or 2x4 walls?
Thanks for this video it was very educational.
great video that is why moisture barriers are more plastic based as the backing paper of pink panther insulation are air vapor barrior (now i finally see the difference)
You are "THE BEST"the most knowledgeable and gifted "BEST TEACHER". I have a question? I want to convert my cold room in basement to a store room. The cold room has a metal corugated cieling. Do you have any video that explains the whole process of insulating the cold room. Thanks
We don't but we have more than a couple of discussions in the forum on that subject.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
What happens to the moisture concentrated at floor level?
+Benny Hannah The idea is that if you get moisture it comes out at the floor where you can find it and know about it instead of it soaking into the insulation and drywall and starting to grow mould that you have no idea is there.
you can also add a channel in the floor perimeter to direct the moisture away into some form of drainage or tank
If I use rigid foam as the moisture barrier, do I still need to have batt insulation or is the rigid foam enough insulation for my basement? I live in the northeast so it get's cold. Also how is the rigid foam attached to the foundation? Does the rigid foam go from very top of the wall to the bottom or is there a gap on the top? Only 80% of my basement is below grade so wondering if I can skip the top 20% which is above grade. Last question, how does my wood frame attach to the rigid foam or is there a gap between the two? TIA
1 inch is R-5 which would be too low to use on its own in NE basements
As always Shannon a really good video. Thanks
thanks, Take note that if using the house wrap, hanging it with the face side facing the concrete wall will be better. That was an over site on my part.
Great video final understand the difference between the two , where to uses one or the other in any situations foundation , attic , surrounding walls , bathroom ,...etc It is this understand of the theory and principals the install gets done quite the same ways... nice through explanation
The air vapor barrior paper sheets are for more preventing water in air moisture... the moisture barrior is more for preventing larger amount of foundation leaking water from outside in. Not the smaller issue of water from air humidity... thats why attics uses paper air barriors on the floor then the insulation rollout. The moisture barrior is more for foundations or bathrooms where larger amounts of water due not only humidity but water itself sources.
Very good video. Thank you for the information.
Great explanations for each type of barrier.
Love your videos. You sure know what you are talking about.
Why can't the Tyvek or Plastic barriers just be tacked to the base board at the top of the concrete wall? Why put the the wood strip below it? I assume it's just due to width of the sheets?
thank you very much for the wonderful video. I wonder how can I install the foam without removing the frame. I got a very old house, having issues with moisture in the wall. . thank you
Thank you, I just learned that the "Vapor" barrier and "Moisture" barrier are not the same. Years ago I was told by a carpenter that us folks up north put 'the' heavy mil plastic barrier on the inside of the walls and down south it goes on the outside. So I guess since then things have changed since there are two products that separately address vapor or moisture. I recently moved and will start framing in my basement walls. Since they are painted cement blocks and appear to never have had any water leaks or stains do I still need the moisture barrier? Harry
Yes basements need a moisture barrier against the concrete or cinder block walls. You also will need a air/vapour barrier under the drywall.
@@HouseImprovements hello Shannon- thanks for the awesome videos and info! I'm in NJ and I have mold on walls in basement which was due to hydrostatic pressure around my foundation which I've solved with a new French drain system...
I had the mold remediated professionally and they "sealed" my walls with that special antimicrobial sealant/paint thing.. so would that in essence now serve as my moisture barrier? Or I'd still need one of these paths for the moisture barrier.
Also the waterproofing companies I met with kept pushing for a "vapor" barrier but I think they really meant 'moisture' barrier? Also don't these barriers lock in the moisture thus leading to mold? Since the air needs to circulate to prevent mold growth.
Please let me know your thoughts and responses to all this :-)
Great video! I Just gutted my den and found lots of damage to my moisture barrier. it looks to be nothign more than very thick aluminum foil. The house was built in the 70's so I guess that was code back then. I have a brick house and behind that damaged barrier was raw brick and nothign else. Can I replace that old school aluminum stuff with the rigid foam or should I hunt around for that same type of moisture barrier?
Answered this on your other post
Very simple and presentable. Now i can do my bment step by step. Thank you!
+sasha19652 You are welcome
Awesome video, thank you for the explanation. Are there several types of foam to use? Any you recommend? I assume this is also applicable for basements with block walls.
I prefer GPS foam .
Thanks Shannon. Then you would install the insulation vapour barrier and drywall after the moisture barrier. That's great. I've never seen moisture barrier before. Great video.
build another wall inside:)
Awesome vid ! Well explained, just subscribed !
Thanks for the sub!
Good to hear, Philippe.
Thanks Shannon, very informative !
+Bayou Pirate glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the video. so, for spray foamed basement we don't need any vapor or moisture barrier to be installed before framing? and for floor base plate where foam is not sprayed, what we need to do? I do see that in my basement, foam is sprayed a little bit on the floor as well where baseplate is placed.
Great video. Thank you again.
Once the metal form tabs are removed, do you do anything to deal with the remnant of the tab in the wall?
Is paint killz good enough as a moister barrier?
Can I use these products to repair/replace my damaged paper on exterior wall due to mold and water damage?
I have a few questions I'm about to renovate my basement and will be doing the following.
For the tyvek wrap is the writing suppost to face outside against the wall?
And my basement is already finished but will be ripping out the walls and redoing the insulation before drywall.. It doesn't have rigid foam board, is it even possible to add because its already framed?
The Tyvek is likely more effective with the writing towards the concrete. If there is enough space you may be able to add it. Depends how they originally did it. I would not spend the money on the foam unless you can get at least 1" in there. If you cant use foam then I would likely use Roxul batt insulation instead of regular batts, it has a little more R value.
Very Informative, TY!
Would you be able to Dry Loc the wall and use it as a moisture barrier and than use foam board?
Excellent video ... Thank you!
Will the foam boards help with humidity in summer time my basement gets very humid in the summer
It may help some, depends what is causing the humidity. We may be able to help more in the forum if you come over there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Great video, it was helpful to understand the purpose of moisture barriers. But I have few more question, I will be grateful if you could address them.
I am in process of installing Luxurt Vinyl Planks flooring (LVP) and manufacturer recommends to use moisture barrier for underlayment. What kind of moisture barrier would you recommend as underlayment for installing the LVP flooring? We have 3 level including a concrete slab on level 1 and we will install LVPs in multiple rooms including bathrooms. Will it be okay to use house-wrap paper everywhere or would you recommend to use plastic on concrete slab and high moisture rooms (bathrooms) and then house-wrap paper for rest of the areas?
Great videos Shannon. Do I a moisture barrier on concrete walls that are above the ground?
I plan to! Im remodeling my bedroom, and will take the opportunity to redo the walls.
What if there is no ground on the other side of the wall, i e. cold side of the wall in contact with air? Do wee need moisture barrier? And can we use a rigid foam in this case?
moisture barrier is only needed on wall sections that are below grade
@@HouseImprovements Thank you for reply. Would you consider making a video explaining all cases where the moisture barrier is needed or not? It would be nice if you could go through all cases of wall placement: above, below and half way below the grade and explain insulation rules and procedures. There are also cases when the concrete wall is below grade and is isolated by mineral wool inserted into wooden frame. As I remember correctly, one must have a min 25mm gap between the framing and concrete wall to provide ventilation. Anyways, if you would consider go through different cases based on given boundaries (above, below or and half way below grade) and give your thoughts on how to insulate based on these assumptions - that will be great
I don't have any leaks my basement walls just gets mouldy I have recently put a dehumidifier down there so it doesn't smell mouldy anymore but the is no visible water coming in so I have cleaned up what mould I did have and paint ed with a mould resistant paint now I want to put the foam frame and drywall
Can you use the vapor or moisture barriers on the warm side and then add drywall on top?
I have existing studs that are very close to the wall.
Yes after wards the wall is framed, insulated and vapour barrier installed and sealed, followed by drywall.
Hi , which kind of barrier suppose to use in attic room before put the dry wall ?
You are likely talking about "air/vapour barrier". It is a clear poly and is sold specifically for air/vapour barriers. It is installed on the warm side of insulation and under the drywall.
so the moisture from the living space wont make it past the overlaps? what about the moisture that comes thro the concrete wall will that tyvec still stop it? what about moisture that comes through the foam board? what would you do exactly if you were going to use the water gaurd that sits on the footer against the wall ?
In my area we use interior Vapour Barriers , those are what is supposed to stop moisture and air flow from inside the home from getting in the wall cavity . Moisture barriers against the inside of concrete wall are to direct moisture that comes through the concrete down to the floor so it does not soak your insulation. The 1" foam as a moisture barrier acts as the moisture barrier , some added insulation and keeps any warm moist air that gets through the vapour barrier from being able to condensate on the inside of the cold concrete wall. Very minimal amounts of that moisture may make it through ship lap edges. Taping those seams will help prevent that .
If you have a french drain then you dont want to seal the bottom of the moisture barrier at the floor, just let it allow moisture to get to the drain.
@@HouseImprovements so what about warm moist air that gets thro the vapour barrior with the tyvec or moisture barrior wont it get past the overlaps and condensate on the concrete wall?
what are you using for air vapour barrier on the inside of rigid foam installation?
Depending on the rules in your area and the thickness of the foam you may not need it but if you do I would use a poly "smart barrier". There a couple different manufactures but Certainteed is one.
thank you I really need to put up some money saving doable at home insulation. and you're easy to understand for the average person n typical do it consumer
I'm using 2" 4×8 foam board panels. Can I fur out the walls over top of panels with 1×3 firing.Then finish the walls. I'm not sure i want to 2×4 frame wall in front. Don't think I need the extra r- value. Am I being to cheap? Think I would like to finish with some type of wood 🤔
depends how flat and plumb your concrete is I suppose? Also dont forget about room to run electrical
Amazing videos...especially for a female DIYer. Hopefully you still see your messages for older videos. Quick question...I am putting up the 1in refective foam board on my cement wall but there is a metal water trap? that goes around the entire circumference on my basement floor. About 4in tall. Do I put the foam board over this trap to attach to my cement wall? Or leave this area open? Guess it's used to collect any water discharge from the wall.
I hope you're not creating a double moisture barrier when you do that.
Hi! No, I only put the foam up and didn't cover the trap.
@@simplymorgans Well that's good you planned ahead and there's a trap there. Though I can't help but wonder if having a water trap is a good or bad thing. I imagine the trap holds some water which could to turn into water vapor. That could contribute to higher humidity and therefore a damp basement.
if our crawl.space already has the cheap 6mm black builder's grade encapsulation would you need or should you remove that before you would install 15mm STEGOCRAWL? or can it go on top without causing a cat pee smell or other problems?
When you install the house wrap in basement, shouldn’t the logo side be facing the concrete and the blank side or black side face the studs?
In reality I dont think it will make a lot of difference but it does make sense
The man the myth the legend
Whats the difference between the moisture barrier and a vapor barrier?
Moisture barrier is placed against the concrete basement wall to direct any minor moisture that comes through the concrete or frost that developed and melts to the floor.
Vapour barrier is attached to the warm side of the basement wall framing under the drywall . It is sealed well all around and helps prevent warm moist air from getting in the wall cavity and also keeping cold drafts out of the house.
Those 3 methods which one worms better?
The rigid foam is the only one that adds any measurable insulation value
Love your videos but not letting me register into forum anyway Can I use floor paint product to encapsulate asbestos tile I want to install high end vinyl plank flooring over it?? Which paint do you recommend?
could you use a spray glue to hold the house wrap ?
I dont think it would last.
Can you just attach rigid foam and not finish the basement off and will tha5 help with some insulation factors
The foam needs to be covered to protect it from burning by code ,so you need drywall. The smoke it gives off if it burns is toxic.
You are my hero!!!
DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO OF HOW TO DEAL WITH MOISTURE GOING FROM THE WALLS TO THE FLOOR? AND THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS, KEEP IT UP AND THANK YOUR.
+SOCIALISM SOCIALIST That is were it is supposed to go, if it is excessive you have other problems likely. Cracked foundation or a leak. Sorry we do not have anything for that.
Question for you, I have a below grade wall that is getting moisture and water. I am going to patch where needed and Dryloc at least 2 coats. They install the insulation sheets like you showed in this video. Do I need any barrier after that or can I just frame my wall?
My basement has two side walls that are common with my neighbors and one that's facing the backyard. Do I need to insulate the common walls or just the outside one? Thanks.
In the case where my builder has already included insulation with the vapour barrier in the basement, do I rip it down and reinstall according to your instructions or do I just put up a wall in front of it and board it up? I don't think the builder has included a moisture barrier between the basement concrete wall and the pink insulation.
Please use our forum for assistance with this.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
We have house wrap tucked into delta so any moisture or condensation goes into our interior waterproofing system. Just letting it hang wont that just let it drip to the floor and let moisture in and ruin your studs bottom plate?
If you have interior waterproofing going into a french drain then yes you can tuck the moisture barrier into the top of it.
@HouseImprovements thank you sir. Following you on Facebook too thanks
Shannon, I have learned so much from watching your videos. Thank you.
Hello ,Paul here I would like to know before I start my basement reno the best insulation cost effective to ensure no mold . Right now my builder has put in the pink wool type should I just remove this or use once I get the studs in?
I have a brick house with 2x3 studs throughout. Im going to tear down the walls and put in roxul insulation and drywall over it. between the studs and outside wall is some tar paper or whatever they call it. Im wanting to put a vapor barrier over the roxul insulation. is that ok? also i'm in North Carolina.
also i'll be using furring strips vertically to bring the wall back out an inch. it currently has horizontal furring strips to support the vertical tongue and groove paneling.
I think you need 2x4's for roxul
Does the rigid foam breathe? Between the wall and the rigid foam won't there be a thin humid line which can provoke fungus, roth etc?
+Vali Goaga The foam does not breath,it directs any moisture to the floor that migrates through the concrete. It also helps prevent any warm moist air that escapes from the interior of the home from being able to contact the cold concrete surface causing condensation and frost.
What's your suggestion for a stone foundation?
i live in canada, we have a cold cellar on basement. and moisture build up during winter and summer. cold cellar has 2 6inches holes on both side. i want to to totally shut it down because of molds growth. my problem is the door between the cellar is moisture build on the door. im thinking to put a Eps or Polyiso foam board to prevent from condensation on the door if that will help to stop moisture grow. or ij the future need to close the 6inch holes and isulates the wall on cold cellar. please help me which best to do for now. planning to seal the door first for now if that one will work is better to use a polyiso board with foil on both side? pe go for eps?
Best is insulating room and filling in venting holes if you're not using it as cool room any more. Filling in the venting holes for now will help keep it warmer and should stop or reduce the condensation. You can insulate the door for short term fix.
Please use our forum if you have more questions.
If I use the 6 mil poly method, can I use faced R13 insulation in between the wood studs?
I'm not sure. In my area faced insulation can't be used.
I have an unfinished basement that have like a large piece of insulation wrapped with a plastic wrap on top of the insulation. Is that the proper way?
That is the default "builder bag insulation" that needs to be installed by the builder on an unfinished basement so the owner can move in. That is not the insulation technique you want in a finished basement project however.
Do you still need a vapor barrier if you use any of these 3 shown in video?
Yes. The only exception would be that in some areas they may allow you to skip the interior air/vapour barrier if you use 2" rigid foam.
So. Is it cheapest way to use plastic and than bat insulation for basement?
cheapest ,yes
thanks a ton for this. I just reparged some loose concrete and one wall the masonry concrete has moisture, do I need to repair outside or can I use the techniques you've shown? it's a 100yr old home in minnesota. thanks!
+Kerrigan M This mostly to handle any frost from condensation in winter and minor leaks and moisture wicking through concrete that may develop over time but your main defence for water leaks is to be done from the exterior for sure.Sounds you may need water proofing from outside and even weeping tile and sump
+HouseImprovements thanks for the info, sounds like its time to dig a big hole!
Hi Shannon, One question I am refinishing Basement in end Condo Unit and plan of using 1" Fiberboard per your video on the three cement basement walls the see the exterior. The 4th basement wall separates my end condo from the next condo unit over. Is it necessary to fiber board the wall as well since it an interior wall. I don't think the next unit is finished or heated. At the very least I was thinking of putting a lower level of moisture barrier like sheathing to save some money. Is this needed. Your thoughts and feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Don
I would just install Roxul insulation in the wall cavity ,this will help with deadening sound transfer also. No vapour barrier or moisture barrier needed on an interior wall BTW.
I want to install insulation blankets in my basement but during heavy down pours I get water through my masonry blocks. Would it be ok to use the poly sheets to create a moisture barrier to protect the blankets before installing?
The best thing would be to stop the water infiltration but yes poly would work.
QUESTION Does the moisture barrier need to wrap around the bottom plate or not?
No not always but you can run it under the plate if you like.
I used tar paper on my last project. The insulation can go right up against the barrier or should there be a gap, either between concrete and barrier, or barrier and insulation?
+cz3chmonkey ya tar paper is ok as long as it is good quality so it does not inhibit mould growth. Insulation is fine to be against it but usually there is a slight gap.
Ok, you have done the walls here and moisture (if it appears on concrete) goes down to the floor. But If you need to make a floor also, what would be the right way of installing floors after you've done the walls?
please use my forum. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Shannon, any suggestions for my situation: the basement is already framed with no moisture barrier behind the studs. Does the framing have to be torn out, moisture barrier up and re-framed? Thanks!
Well first check if your area requires a moisture barrier and if it does I would try to get one pulled in between the studs and concrete , if you can't get it in there then I would use Roxul insulation or closed cell spray foam for insulation and not regular batt insulation which is effected if it gets wet.
@@HouseImprovements Am I understanding correctly that no moisture barrier is needed if you do Roxul insulation?
If you can pull the moisture barrier between the studs and concrete, do you attach it to the stubs? Can they be touching? Thanks!
Can you attach the barrier from the floor joist instead of nailing into the concrete wall?
Love your vids !
no, it needs to be a maximum of 12" above the outside ground level .
@@HouseImprovements Can you explain why that is?
Is 1" the bare minimum for moisture barrier?
No really any for over 1/2" is fine but in my opinion at least using 1" gives you a little more R value as well.
What about roxul on basement walls? Vapor barior then nail roxul with foil face outward over it?
Hi Shannon u have tried to ask this question on you forum but I got no answer I don't know why so now I will ask here I am putting the 1" thick foam board on my basement walls I get a lot of moisture in my basement witch get some mould I have cleaned it build up around the outside to help water run away so is it ok to put the foam board on even if I may still get a little water ? Sorry so long lol
I don't seem to see this question in the forum? Anyways , you need to fix the water problem before finishing the basement . This foam or any moisture barrier are not made to control water leaks they are made to re direct moisture from frost or condensation and very minor water infiltration. Please use the forum again if you have more questions as I hardly ever check these comments.
Message me if you still want to know the answer to this.
Hopefully someone can answer this question for me.
So I see all these videos and articles about insulating basment interior with rigid foam and then framing in front of it. But I can’t seem to find info that claims that is fire safe. Is having drywall in front of it what makes it fire safe? I’m getting ready to insulate my basment cinderblock walls but don’t want to use XPS if it isn’t fire safe.
Wouldn’t just the plain vapor barrier be better? It seems more breathable.
I was wondering, can you paint the walls with drylock type product and then attach the rigid foam insulation right onto it? or do we need an air space between? I find contradicting information.
You could. If installing rigid foam that acts as your moisture barrier and some insulation value.
HouseImprovements but my concern is if I need an air space between the drylock product and the rigid foam
@DevJB lol this was a 5 year old question I never used drylock. Through my research I found its a worthless junky product. I sealed my walls and floor with radonseal before using ridgid foam
I am using plastic for the moisture barrier, and not sealing it. People keep telling me that it is going to create moisture. . . But if it isn't sealed is this a problem? We will be installing an airtight vapour barrier too. I don't want to have to rip up my walls 6 months after finishing the whole project. Where does the moisture go?
My basement is very dry, no moisture smell to begin with. Am I risking creating moisture that wouldn't be there by using a moisture barrier?
We are using Poly-Tarp 6 plastic, the same thing we will use for the air-tight vapour barier on the other side. Attaching it at the top, on the outside of the framing, and running it down to near the floor, but not sealing it. It overlaps the plastic we used around the base-plates of our framing.
Then every six feet or so, horizontally it overlaps another sheet, so it is not sealed at those points too, but just overlapping. . .
You are fine , I also replied to you on the forum.
thanks
Is it OK to attach the moisture barrier to the back of the studs rather than on the concrete wall
If you can.
The answer depends on a few different variables. I''m in the process of finishing my basement and moisture barriers are not as simple as the video may have suggested. Just let me know if you want my take on things by replying to this comment or any other means necessary. I just hope you don't mess up your finishing job. By covering a concrete wall with a 'moisture barrier' you have the potential to create a double vapor barrier which is NOT what you want. BUT IT REALLY DEPENDS ON A FEW FACTORS.
This whole moisture barrier topic is a complex topic which took me about 2 hours and a 32 page article to really 'truly' FINALLY understand.
@@HouseImprovements I'm not a fan of fiberglass batts. I'm really more a fan ROCKWOOL. It doesn't absorb moisture and is a hell of a lot more durable than fiberglass insulation. You wouldn't even need a "moisture barrier" with Rockwool (mineral wool insulation).
@@inyoureyes9197 Would you mind sharing the article you've referenced? I'm having a hard time understanding it and it'd be a big help. Thank you.
Same… seems building science is leaning towards no moisture barrier when using rockwool but do I still need the vapor barrier? It’s not the rockwool I’m worried about but the studs now. I’m thinking of using rockwool comfort board against the concrete, then framing and rockwool bat insulation and certianteed membrain vapor barrior. I’m in a mixed climate here in Wisconsin so it gets pretty warm summers with running the ac and very cold winters.
I really don’t understand how rigid foam or foam applications that are bassically air tight to the concrete are acceptable if the wall is supposed to breath… wouldn’t these applications be trapping excess moisture in the block/concrete thus accelerating the deterioration of the wall? Or is that just thinking too much into it?
I’m in Wisconsin, and I’m debating if I should use 1” foam board and seal it all up good with tape and spray foam, or let it breath using 1” rock wool comfort board. Then obviously framing and more insulation in the cavity. But to take it one more step I was even going to use the certianteed membrain vapor barrier to allow air flow between season changes.
Anyone got some concrete evidence to the best approach? ( pun intended ) :)
concrete is porous enough that moisture can move in and out of it from the exterior .
Thanks Bro.
Why not use metal studs ?
Why use wood?
You can use metal, there are other difficulties working with metal but it works fine.
@@HouseImprovements 3 year old video and still reply +rep
With pipes that run horizontal along the basement wall.. how do you put the vapor barrier above or behind it?
I have a question can I use painters plastic be in my walls as vapor barrier it's garage no concrete just 2x4 framing insolation
No not for a vapour barrier, it is to thin.