If you have drop your atc from a pitch you should think about changing it cause anodized aluminium could get micro crack with high impact contact BD if you dont belive me but it's bether to pay 30$ than lost your second cause the carabiner ring broke on a fall.
Got a Smart 2.0 after using a normal ATC and after getting used to it I love it. Just like having that extra protection and seem to be able to pay rope out easier
The last note is what I think everyone who stands by ATCs and similar are missing is besides the obvious protection element… there is a means to override the camming action of any assisted device. Learning to use that means you feed out faster and more smoothly. By itself, worth the upgrade.
Watching your video made me think of a detail I was lucky to notice before deciding on a belay device: I'm left handed and belayed with the Mammut Smart ever since learning with it in my first climbing course. I tried the GriGri when climbing with friends who had one and always thought it to be a bit akward for left handed folks as I either had to belay with my non-dominant hand or having to weirdly cross-handle the rope and the break function. Thanks for your content!
Also left handed, and the Smart is aso my choice. I find the GriGri reasonable, but just more specific being that I have belayed left handed for all of my climbing, and unlearning certain actions to use primarily does not seem as valuable.
Lefty here, I use the Smart 2.0, and have the smart alpine. I absolutely HATE the grigri. Gets stuck while trying to give slack a lot. I always have my thumb below the belay device's "tongue", if you will, I pull it up while giving slack and inmediately pull it down along with the brake rope while bringing my right hand to the base of the climber's rope to give more slack. I haven't compared it to other assisted braking devices besides the grigri, but two options are the Jul series and the BD Pilot. Price-based, I got the smart 2.0. I would love to see a comparison between the smart 2.0, click up, Mega Jul, and Pilot.
I tried the click-up for a while, not sure if it's just my technique but I was getting really bad rope twisting belaying with it. Dropped it in preference for devices like the mammut smart or gigajul
There is usually a little wobble, if you feel too much send a video to Petzl to ask, but be mindful that pin which holds the plate into position isn’t part of the load bearing structure, just obviously makes sure the rope doesn’t slide out, but most of the structure for this plate is from the large hole and carabiner.
Research this topic far more thoroughly than a TH-cam comment, but: Any active camming device can be used as a replacement for a Silent Partner in a lead solo mode, GriGri, Birdie, Vergo, maybe not the Lifeguard, although none of the manufacturers will state this and there is far more needed to add redundancy in the system and assure the whole setup goes smoothly. However, there is not, to my knowledge, a dedicated lead solo device on the market, and the Silent Partner was the only one I’ve seen. This being said, have heard more than one gear designer including Brent Barghahn talk about dissecting a SP and a GriGri and making the switch to the GriGri.
For those people just getting a belay device for the first time, be aware that with a Gri gri if you grab at the live rope (the one going to the climber) it can create a situation where the cam does not grab the rope and the rope will run through your hands. I won't use a Gri gri. because I know too many people who have been dropped using one. Petzel has put out a number of teaching videos showing different ways to use it over the years. It was particularly dodgy with the original model used with a skinnier rope. I know many experienced climbers will disagree with me but there again they are experienced.
If you have drop your atc from a pitch you should think about changing it cause anodized aluminium could get micro crack with high impact contact BD if you dont belive me but it's bether to pay 30$ than lost your second cause the carabiner ring broke on a fall.
Got a Smart 2.0 after using a normal ATC and after getting used to it I love it. Just like having that extra protection and seem to be able to pay rope out easier
The last note is what I think everyone who stands by ATCs and similar are missing is besides the obvious protection element… there is a means to override the camming action of any assisted device. Learning to use that means you feed out faster and more smoothly. By itself, worth the upgrade.
Watching your video made me think of a detail I was lucky to notice before deciding on a belay device: I'm left handed and belayed with the Mammut Smart ever since learning with it in my first climbing course. I tried the GriGri when climbing with friends who had one and always thought it to be a bit akward for left handed folks as I either had to belay with my non-dominant hand or having to weirdly cross-handle the rope and the break function.
Thanks for your content!
Also left handed, and the Smart is aso my choice. I find the GriGri reasonable, but just more specific being that I have belayed left handed for all of my climbing, and unlearning certain actions to use primarily does not seem as valuable.
Lefty here, I use the Smart 2.0, and have the smart alpine. I absolutely HATE the grigri. Gets stuck while trying to give slack a lot. I always have my thumb below the belay device's "tongue", if you will, I pull it up while giving slack and inmediately pull it down along with the brake rope while bringing my right hand to the base of the climber's rope to give more slack.
I haven't compared it to other assisted braking devices besides the grigri, but two options are the Jul series and the BD Pilot. Price-based, I got the smart 2.0. I would love to see a comparison between the smart 2.0, click up, Mega Jul, and Pilot.
we used to twist 2 loops on 1 hand and break with the other, how times have changed.
I tried the click-up for a while, not sure if it's just my technique but I was getting really bad rope twisting belaying with it. Dropped it in preference for devices like the mammut smart or gigajul
Ever seen a sticht plate?
Even more basic than your basic device.
Works for 2 ropes, abseils fine...
Mine is ancient and still perfect.
Best belay plate for twin ropes? any options for assisted breaking with lead belaying with twin ropes?
Edelrid Megajul, which they actually used to sell in a set (Flycatcher?) with twin ropes
Alpine Up, Smart Alpine
Just bought a gri gri, is it normal the gate plate (coloured plate) is so loose?
It usually has a bit of play in it..
There is usually a little wobble, if you feel too much send a video to Petzl to ask, but be mindful that pin which holds the plate into position isn’t part of the load bearing structure, just obviously makes sure the rope doesn’t slide out, but most of the structure for this plate is from the large hole and carabiner.
Conquer the world. Yurisich...
you started with the ATC ? what abouth the 8 figre ?I am stil using 8 figures :))
Research this topic far more thoroughly than a TH-cam comment, but: Any active camming device can be used as a replacement for a Silent Partner in a lead solo mode, GriGri, Birdie, Vergo, maybe not the Lifeguard, although none of the manufacturers will state this and there is far more needed to add redundancy in the system and assure the whole setup goes smoothly.
However, there is not, to my knowledge, a dedicated lead solo device on the market, and the Silent Partner was the only one I’ve seen. This being said, have heard more than one gear designer including Brent Barghahn talk about dissecting a SP and a GriGri and making the switch to the GriGri.
For those people just getting a belay device for the first time, be aware that with a Gri gri if you grab at the live rope (the one going to the climber) it can create a situation where the cam does not grab the rope and the rope will run through your hands. I won't use a Gri gri. because I know too many people who have been dropped using one. Petzel has put out a number of teaching videos showing different ways to use it over the years. It was particularly dodgy with the original model used with a skinnier rope. I know many experienced climbers will disagree with me but there again they are experienced.