This is very cool! Like someone else posted, when it comes time to extract honey: you need to place the frames in there to where their top bars are pointing toward the outside of the can and not the center. This is because the way the bees build their comb, it IS slightly angled downward (you'll notice this when you get going with your bees) so that honey and larva can't just fall out.. Another thing that you may learn the hard way is that you won't ever need to spin the frames as fast as you had them going. Doing this will fling the wax comb (honey and all) completely off of the plastic foundation and it'll stick to the side wall of your extractor. So, rotate your frames so the top bars are the other way and start with a slow spin, and I think you'll have a great time! Thumbs up from me. [=
I just dropped the frames in to demonstrate the spin..They go in with the top to the outside just as you said .I have used this several times and it works great ..thanks for your comment
The can is galvanized and is steam cleaned ..and is bran-new ..the bike rims have been totally cleaned ..I have seen many extractors made of galvanized metal ..the rims are aluminum and are clean ..If I called them aluminum circles would you feel better
the frames should be placed with the top of the frame towards the outside ..a honey gate drain has been placed at the bottom of the can to drain the honey ..start by spinning slow and increase speed as they drain..best done on a good hot day when the honey will flow better.. In this video i was spinning the frames fast to show the spin ...do not spin that fast or the comb may spin out of the frame ..I spun 4 frames and got about 18 lbs of honey (about a gallon and a half )..To clean up I just fill the barrel with water and put the spin basket in and spin for a while with the drill and drain and let dry
I like your device. I made a similar one which shows up next to yours on TH-cam. (Sporadic cleaner) I like yours better and plan to "reinvent my wheel"! After reading comments to you, I remember why I disabled comments to mine. People are so mean. Kudos to you for your thinking and keep up the good work!
People can be mean and others can be very kind. It would also remember that sticks and stones may break my bones but words will never harm me. And remember to conquer hate with love. Evil has nothing for love.
The spring months- October to December you'd want to check your colony for any conspicuous signs of AFB (common occurrence) in your brood boxes and if so, burn your brood immediately unless you have a DECA (Disease Elimination Conformity Authority) Cert that gives you special conditions, it is by law beekeepers finding AFB burn their hives and sterilise your used tools and PPE that have the contaminant by using hydrochloric acid (Janola bleach). There are other ways to sterilise your tools which is scorching them in your smoker using a gas flame. During this spring period, if your hive had no signs of AFB, Varroa (or mix of two) and other viruses. You strip down your hive and clear off any propolis, burrcomb, debris and look for any signs of swarming. If you see swarm cells get rid of them and reverse your boxes starting from top brood box to the bottom and bottom brood box to the top where you give the bees the idea they've already swarm. This is known as artificial swarming. You can also look into the bottom brood box to see if that's fulled and if your top brood box is struggling to be filled you can always pull frames from the bottom brood box out and into the top brood box as long as they're frames from the top box to go into the bottom. You can always use another trick which is baiting your swarm if it's too late to prevent them from swarming. You can use lemongrass oil to lure the swarm into a nuc or full depth box! Look up on TH-cam for more insight. In the spring period you'd also want to add your honey super on before the main honey flow (nectar flow) begins. A trick that bee hobbyists and keepers use that helps them to know when to add honey supers on their hive is to see fresh white burrcomb on the topbars of their frames also known as 'white waxing' bees make before they draw out their comb and need more room to festooned. Even if you grab your frames and shake them and see pollen. You'd know pollen was collected that day! Additional supers can be added once it's necessary otherwise supering up too early can cause disharmony and overwhelming stress for bees whom need to build their comb, wax and forage in a box that has all the beespace to give them. After your inspection, swarming prevention, supering and feeding if necessary. You won't need to disturb the hive for another three weeks. Good luck! From an aspiring beekeeper 🐝
Hello... Can you tell me the complete list of the things that i need?? i dont know how to find the ones that goes in the bottom, the one who make it roll Thanks its great big mind
This is awesome ! How did you build the bottom bearing assembly - a sealed bearing press fit into some PVC assembly? And how did you fix the rims to the rod so they dont spin on the rod?
Have you any thoughts on harvesting honey from top bar hives? It requires that the entire comb be destroyed but there are too many methods to know which work best. It would be exceptional if you could improve on those methods. As you did here.
@patq33333, love your ingenuity! We have the cutest blue bees in our yard, any ideas on how to coax them into a new hive we are making for them? Also, ignore the haters and the trolls, you are making the world a better place for those that care for bees. Finally, do you have a complete list of parts you used? I was able to comb through the Q&A section to find more specifics, but I'm sure there are more that are obvious to you, but not so much to me. Thanks for your time!
Concerned about the galvanized pale..I worked in a fab shop and we needed respirators when grinding, welding and plasma cutting galv pipe Bc of the toxicity and the potential for CANCER.
a little concerned about the toxicity of the galvanized pail. aluminum, stainless steel, or food-grade plastic would be best and in some places might be the only legal options
also, if you're looking to sell your honey, you might not be able to use bicycle rims, either. great idea for home use only, but be careful once you start adding a price tag to your honey.
how do you get the honey out? I feel like there would be a lot of grooves and creases in the metal of a trash can that would trap honey and be wasted. Something that big maybe a food grade plastic barrel with a valve inserted into the bottom.
Bonjour GRAND BRAVO pour votre capacité à créer, vous êtes génial. Il faudrait donner des cours àmon mari, qui,lui, ne sait pas faire grand chose. Christiane KREMER France
great job. however what is your source of energy that spins the garget. two, bearings normally have some sort of lubricant. are your bearings without any lubricant?
Turn the frames so the top bar is toward the outside of the drum and the natural angle of the cells will empty better. The bees have the cells angled up when in the hive to keep the honey from draining out.
I addressed this long ago look below.I only just dropped them in for a demonstration of how it would spin.I did turn them the other way when full and they worked great .Also did it on a nice warm day ......thanks
I was thinking the galvanized would be an issue too but... “ The Food and Drug Association (FDA) has approved the use of galvanized steel for food preparation and conveyance for all applications with the exception of foods that have a high acid content, such as tomatoes, oranges, limes, and other fruits. The acid content in these foods will attack the zinc coating and cause accelerated corrosion. Many food products are stored on galvanized racks or in coolers with galvanized shelving.” ~AGA
As I said a few times already .I just dropped the frames in to show the spin.When I spin out honey the frames are in with the top facing the outside of the can \
Just showing how good the bearings work .With honey frames in I start slow and slowly increase speed as the honey flys out .Use a variable speed drill to spin.
Very cool idea but I wouldn't use galvanized as it is zinc plated. Stainless steel or a plastic barrel would be food safe. I would add a honey gate at the bottom.
honey is not stored in there it is there for about 20 minutes and it is poured into glass and it is washed and dried till next time .It is also washed before use
I have been making my own hive preparing for the spring. I chose to use 6 1/4" frames instead of the 5 3/8" ones. If your are using the 5 3/8 ones, do you think 6 1/4 will still fit?
Hello Sir, First, I'd like to say that this is very smart and ingenious idea. It's amazing. But I do have a few questions, I believe you answered them, but I'd like to ask you more in depth about it. How were you able to remove all the grease from the bearings, the spokes, and the wheels? I ask, because I am an avid cyclist myself and i do know that no matter what wheels, bearings, or spokes ( any moving part of machines) of bike will come with either lube on it or grease. How did you successfully removed it to be able to use it in your extractor without contaminating your Honey? My apologies if I have made you repeat yourself. I am not doubting you in anyway, I am only trying to expand my knowledge on DIY projects as I am a New-Bee as a Beekerper. Thank you for taking your time in reading my comment.
the wheels are aluminum and I removed the wheel bearings and pressure washed the wheels and removed all but the necessary spokes. the threaded rod goes through the hole where the bearings used to be and a washer and bolt on each side to hold them. the bearing that the threaded rod goes into on the bottom and the top are sealed bearings .Good luck with the bees
This is very cool! Like someone else posted, when it comes time to extract honey: you need to place the frames in there to where their top bars are pointing toward the outside of the can and not the center. This is because the way the bees build their comb, it IS slightly angled downward (you'll notice this when you get going with your bees) so that honey and larva can't just fall out..
Another thing that you may learn the hard way is that you won't ever need to spin the frames as fast as you had them going. Doing this will fling the wax comb (honey and all) completely off of the plastic foundation and it'll stick to the side wall of your extractor. So, rotate your frames so the top bars are the other way and start with a slow spin, and I think you'll have a great time!
Thumbs up from me. [=
tekop amatch
Thanks 👍. You mean like so they don't make a cross shape, but a square?... Use something other than bicycle wheels?
This is the better homemade honey extractor that i viewed.
Very easy construct and cheap.
I just dropped the frames in to demonstrate the spin..They go in with the top to the outside just as you said .I have used this several times and it works great ..thanks for your comment
A brilliant idea using bicycle wheels to make a radial honey extractor. Well done and thanks for sharing.
That was such a Smart idea that when I started watching, the smile covered my face on it's own. Awesome.
Hat is a work of art , so clever. I use an old Australian made Pender machine which works along similar lines. Thanks for sharing
wow that looks so easy to make , I will show my husband your video . we will need one next year. we just started this year. thanks
Очень простой, но точный инженерный расчёт благодарю друг! Благословений вам Божьих в дальнейших изобритениях, здоровья, и счастья! 🐝
this is genius...simple and inexpensive!!.....thank you for sharing!!!
great job Qman ! your infinite wisdom strikes again.
this extractor requires no grease ,the galvanized can is brand new and the honey that comes out is pure sweet and clean
Excellent, it's a great job. Very good idea, my friend. Thank you very much for sharing your experience.
The can is galvanized and is steam cleaned ..and is bran-new ..the bike rims have been totally cleaned ..I have seen many extractors made of galvanized metal ..the rims are aluminum and are clean ..If I called them aluminum circles would you feel better
patq33333
This is the best one i've seen so far. Good work mate, thumbs up for ya
the frames should be placed with the top of the frame towards the outside ..a honey gate drain has been placed at the bottom of the can to drain the honey ..start by spinning slow and increase speed as they drain..best done on a good hot day when the honey will flow better.. In this video i was spinning the frames fast to show the spin ...do not spin that fast or the comb may spin out of the frame ..I spun 4 frames and got about 18 lbs of honey (about a gallon and a half )..To clean up I just fill the barrel with water and put the spin basket in and spin for a while with the drill and drain and let dry
what a great idea. I'm going to build one just like it.
What did you use to spin it?
@@francislyimo57 cordless drill
Best one yet!!!!!! Great work!!
That looks amazing.
It worked pretty well with 4 med frames
best home made extractor i have seen!! good work.
thanks ..It works great
foi bem criativo sua centrifuga ! 10
one day i will do that too, is a very good and cheap idea and it seems to work perfect. thanks for the video.
Thank you for sharing simple and efficient honey extractor you are truly awesome and wonderful ^^
the wood is maple and there is no grease.the honey is great .I guess you cant PLEZX everybody
I like your device. I made a similar one which shows up next to yours on TH-cam. (Sporadic cleaner) I like yours better and plan to "reinvent my wheel"! After reading comments to you, I remember why I disabled comments to mine. People are so mean. Kudos to you for your thinking and keep up the good work!
yes some look for the good in things and others look to find fault in all things
People can be mean and others can be very kind.
It would also remember that sticks and stones may break my bones but words will never harm me.
And remember to conquer hate with love.
Evil has nothing for love.
Well made. We hope to get into beekeeping this Spring
The spring months- October to December you'd want to check your colony for any conspicuous signs of AFB (common occurrence) in your brood boxes and if so, burn your brood immediately unless you have a DECA (Disease Elimination Conformity Authority) Cert that gives you special conditions, it is by law beekeepers finding AFB burn their hives and sterilise your used tools and PPE that have the contaminant by using hydrochloric acid (Janola bleach).
There are other ways to sterilise your tools which is scorching them in your smoker using a gas flame.
During this spring period, if your hive had no signs of AFB, Varroa (or mix of two) and other viruses.
You strip down your hive and clear off any propolis, burrcomb, debris and look for any signs of swarming.
If you see swarm cells get rid of them and reverse your boxes starting from top brood box to the bottom and bottom brood box to the top where you give the bees the idea they've already swarm. This is known as artificial swarming.
You can also look into the bottom brood box to see if that's fulled and if your top brood box is struggling to be filled you can always pull frames from the bottom brood box out and into the top brood box as long as they're frames from the top box to go into the bottom.
You can always use another trick which is baiting your swarm if it's too late to prevent them from swarming.
You can use lemongrass oil to lure the swarm into a nuc or full depth box!
Look up on TH-cam for more insight.
In the spring period you'd also want to add your honey super on before the main honey flow (nectar flow) begins. A trick that bee hobbyists and keepers use that helps them to know when to add honey supers on their hive is to see fresh white burrcomb on the topbars of their frames also known as 'white waxing' bees make before they draw out their comb and need more room to festooned.
Even if you grab your frames and shake them and see pollen. You'd know pollen was collected that day!
Additional supers can be added once it's necessary otherwise supering up too early can cause disharmony and overwhelming stress for bees whom need to build their comb, wax and forage in a box that has all the beespace to give them.
After your inspection, swarming prevention, supering and feeding if necessary. You won't need to disturb the hive for another three weeks. Good luck!
From an aspiring beekeeper 🐝
how do you remove those frames later?
Hello...
Can you tell me the complete list of the things that i need?? i dont know how to find the ones that goes in the bottom, the one who make it roll
Thanks its great big mind
Excelente aparato, felicitaciones!
Yankee ingenuity at its finest! Very impressive.
I love it. I do have a question. Couldn't you have just as easily made this an eight frame rig if you would have chose to do so? Thanks Phillip Hall
This is awesome ! How did you build the bottom bearing assembly - a sealed bearing press fit into some PVC assembly? And how did you fix the rims to the rod so they dont spin on the rod?
Very nice. Thankyou for your time for showing how to make...great job
how do you fix the bottom bearing? I did not understand how you fix it at the wood?
good Idea , helpful to smal beekeepers
you sir are a genius.
Have you any thoughts on harvesting honey from top bar hives? It requires that the entire comb be destroyed but there are too many methods to know which work best. It would be exceptional if you could improve on those methods. As you did here.
This is BRILLIANT!!!!!
Great job, although you should put the frames in with the top bars to the outside of the bin.
I think they were 22" ..big enough to fit the medium frame
@patq33333, love your ingenuity! We have the cutest blue bees in our yard, any ideas on how to coax them into a new hive we are making for them?
Also, ignore the haters and the trolls, you are making the world a better place for those that care for bees.
Finally, do you have a complete list of parts you used? I was able to comb through the Q&A section to find more specifics, but I'm sure there are more that are obvious to you, but not so much to me.
Thanks for your time!
Very good idea the bicycle frames is a simple idea and works well one of the best I have watched
Many thanks
Excelente ideia com radial de bicicleta, bom mesmo.
Concerned about the galvanized pale..I worked in a fab shop and we needed respirators when grinding, welding and plasma cutting galv pipe Bc of the toxicity and the potential for CANCER.
yes there is a honey gate valve at the bottom
Nice idea. Your frames should be turned so the top bar is to the outside though.
a little concerned about the toxicity of the galvanized pail. aluminum, stainless steel, or food-grade plastic would be best and in some places might be the only legal options
also, if you're looking to sell your honey, you might not be able to use bicycle rims, either. great idea for home use only, but be careful once you start adding a price tag to your honey.
Have you ever sucked on zinc tablets for a cold remedy? What toxicity are you talking about?
It's a nice idea, but when you're done, how do you get the tire out?
how do you get the honey out? I feel like there would be a lot of grooves and creases in the metal of a trash can that would trap honey and be wasted. Something that big maybe a food grade plastic barrel with a valve inserted into the bottom.
Nice but I'm wondering what you used to power it. I don't think I saw it in the video.
Thanks
It would be great to see how to build it step by step. Great video
Hello do you know that garbonized metal is poised
the rod is threaded so a nut and washer on both sides of each rim ...black plastic tape around the bearing till it fit snugly in the pvc opening
Do you have the plans posted somewhere?
Bonjours je suis français sorry for my approximative english what is the diamerer of the wheel and exctractor
Bonjour GRAND BRAVO pour votre capacité à créer, vous êtes génial. Il faudrait donner des cours àmon mari, qui,lui, ne sait pas faire grand chose. Christiane KREMER France
Very nice video bravo!
Cleaver. How do you drain the honey from the can?
I guess a honey gate could be put into the side near the bottom.
great job. however what is your source of energy that spins the garget. two, bearings normally have some sort of lubricant. are your bearings without any lubricant?
they are sealed bearings .spin with a battery powered drill
Turn the frames so the top bar is toward the outside of the drum and the natural angle of the cells will empty better. The bees have the cells angled up when in the hive to keep the honey from draining out.
I addressed this long ago look below.I only just dropped them in for a demonstration of how it would spin.I did turn them the other way when full and they worked great .Also did it on a nice warm day ......thanks
What size tires did you use for this?
🌻🐝👍🌻🐝👍EXELENTE IDEA.....SALUDOS DESDE ECUADOR
Very impressive 💯
I tried to visit your website. do you have a things to purchase list somewhere? I would like to build one next weekend
ابداع ...شكرا لك....good luck 👍
Like your honey extractor,simply and easy but can it work well with foundation frames?
If the frame fits it works great
Awesome... one question: when you let off the drill trigger how do you get it to "coast" and decelerate on its own rather than jerking on the drill?
tapered the top nut and just pull up on the drill and it easily comes off the nut and it slowly comes to a stop
so ingenuity!
I am using the 6 1/4 frames in this video
Fantastic, thank you very much
you are welcome ...and it works great
The most important part of this video was excluded due to the camera composure. What is being used to power the axle rotation?
cordless drill
Nice, I might want to go with Food Grade Plastic, however i will not be selling my honey.
Muy práctico para trabajar en el mismo apiario pero a esa velocidad los panales llenos de miel se romperían.
I was thinking the galvanized would be an issue too but...
“
The Food and Drug Association (FDA) has approved the use of galvanized steel for food preparation and conveyance for all applications with the exception of foods that have a high acid content, such as tomatoes, oranges, limes, and other fruits. The acid content in these foods will attack the zinc coating and cause accelerated corrosion. Many food products are stored on galvanized racks or in coolers with galvanized shelving.” ~AGA
trust your initial instinct.
honey is acidic.
Thank You
Probably shouldn’t used galvanized metal for food now days. Just saying. It’s not stainless
I wouldnt worry about galvanized metal. Look at all the chemicals that's being put into hives these days
muito muito bom ==== very good .
there is a honey gate on the bottom
since bees bulid the cell at an upward angle shouldn't the frames of honey be pointed the other way or does it do good this way
Yes, that is correct
As I said a few times already .I just dropped the frames in to show the spin.When I spin out honey the frames are in with the top facing the outside of the can
\
the bearings are just circular ball bearings
is that a radial bearing on the bottom?
If I wanted one to buy, how do I get it? Please get in touch and help me. I have beehives that will be ready for harvest in march this year.Thanks.
Show! Me INSCREVI 530 e deixe LIKE e TBM ativei o SININHO JUNTOS somos mais fortes! Tmj e um forte abraço
seems to me that going that speed it will tear up the comb from the pressure of the honey
Just showing how good the bearings work .With honey frames in I start slow and slowly increase speed as the honey flys out .Use a variable speed drill to spin.
Backyard genius
Good work
Muito criativo
love a good DIY video........
Very cool idea but I wouldn't use galvanized as it is zinc plated. Stainless steel or a plastic barrel would be food safe. I would add a honey gate at the bottom.
did put a honey gate at bottom
honey is not stored in there it is there for about 20 minutes and it is poured into glass and it is washed and dried till next time .It is also washed before use
Прикольно!!! Молодец!!!
ечейки на рамке имеют наклон . поэтому верхний брус должен стоять на край
Thanks a lot👍
Thank you very mash
I have been making my own hive preparing for the spring. I chose to use 6 1/4" frames instead of the 5 3/8" ones. If your are using the 5 3/8 ones, do you think 6 1/4 will still fit?
Você é uma benção
Graças Deus te abençoe
A drain hole on the bottom?
yes a honey gate in the side at the bottom
Ingenious
Won’t the galvanizing get into the honey?
Also wouldn’t you put the tops of the frames to the outside, since bees put an angle to the comb?
Good travel
Think u
Hello Sir,
First, I'd like to say that this is very smart and ingenious idea. It's amazing. But I do have a few questions, I believe you answered them, but I'd like to ask you more in depth about it. How were you able to remove all the grease from the bearings, the spokes, and the wheels?
I ask, because I am an avid cyclist myself and i do know that no matter what wheels, bearings, or spokes ( any moving part of machines) of bike will come with either lube on it or grease. How did you successfully removed it to be able to use it in your extractor without contaminating your Honey?
My apologies if I have made you repeat yourself. I am not doubting you in anyway, I am only trying to expand my knowledge on DIY projects as I am a New-Bee as a Beekerper.
Thank you for taking your time in reading my comment.
the wheels are aluminum and I removed the wheel bearings and pressure washed the wheels and removed all but the necessary spokes. the threaded rod goes through the hole where the bearings used to be and a washer and bolt on each side to hold them. the bearing that the threaded rod goes into on the bottom and the top are sealed bearings .Good luck with the bees
@@quigleydownunderquigley9237oh ok. I follow. That is very smart. Thank you for your reply!
Молодец, почему мне раньше это видео не попалось
i Like your ideal