I literally lost mine in the hatch when removing one. Thankfully, I brought a wrench with so could budge where my cold numb fingers weren't able to spin off. Now I'm more poor. But the car looks nice and I'm thinking how am I going to struggle with re-enforcing before I re-install this kit.
You were very thorough, it looks easy and very organized. Can I see you make a video with your daily routine living in car. I’m addicted to watching campers routine specially on rainy nights. Very relaxing.
haha. I'll be making a lot more tutorial content-related to the lifestyle aspect of living out of a Prius-later in the year. Hopefully it provides some of what you're looking for
Thank you so much! This made it very easy to replace my lift gate. It has crumbled into pieces and was hanging by the wires. Previous owners used epoxy and I had glued and taped it previously. Now it looks brand new.
Thank you for your video! It was a lot of help. I finally got around to replacing the garnish in my son's Prius after having the part for some time (yes, his 63-year-old mother is better at mechanical stuff than he is ;-). A few additional tips: 1. Put an old blanket, towel, sweatshirt or something over where the latch engages on the floor - sitting on the edge facing out makes it easier to work on the inside of the hatch, just pull the hatch down over your lap (though you might have to scrunch up a bit to fit). 2. Wrap a cloth around the latch on the hatch - hitting your head on it while getting in & out of the cargo area hurts! Also, 1 & 2 keep the latch from engaging while you're working on the garnish. 3. Since you'll need to pull the electronics wire out eventually anyway, do so initially - removing the screws from the button electronics assembly on the garnish is a lot easier when you can get it away from the car and onto a solid surface. I thought at first that meant trying to pull the wire out through the rubber grommet, which isn't going to happen, but the grommet itself comes out fairly easily. 4. Those screws on the button electronics assembly wouldn't budge for me no matter what, and they stripped quite easily. But I was able to use a screw extractor to get them out (the one I have is www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6PM32/?coliid=I2T5MY6OG74AKV&colid=11MXP26CL66XK&psc=1&ref_=gv_ov_lig_pi_dp - #2 did the trick); luckily, the new garnish came with replacements for these screws. And, lastly: 5. If you do need to replace any of the nuts (I needed one), they're metric 5 - .8 flange nuts; Home Depot didn't have flange nuts in that size when I went, but a regular nut works fine with a washer for that size + a slightly larger washer. Thanks again, Michael, for the help!
Thank you so much for your wonderful video! Worked perfectly and exactly like you said. The dang screws around the black button housing had me for a minute, but after they were super striped, the plastic was so rotten around the housing that I was able to just break off the plastic and unscrew the back. The new amazon piece came with new screws. I am 62 years old and just delighted by how much money I have saved doing this. Thank you !
Thanks Michael, my husband and I just did the replacement over this Memorial Day weekend (2023). We have a 2004 Prius with no side button which simplifies the replacement slightly. We also didn't bother replacing the Toyota logo, instead a flying spaghetti monster will grace that location - much more fun. Like the others said, lovely to not have to pay hundreds of $ to a body shop.
Your video was a great help in the installation of the replacement Lift-Gate of our 2005 Toyota Prius. Ordered the product described in your URL link and received it this past Friday and then the project began on Saturday.Took about 3 hours for the entire job, had some bolts and nuts that had to be removed by a dremel tool and also had to purchase a deep socket for removing some of the nuts from the long bolts and two were in tight places. Also took me and my wife working together on various steps in order for the proper tension and position for everything fitting correctly. Bottom line is that the new replacement part in 100% better then the factory part and works better than the original. This upgrade is something we should have executed years ago.
Thanks Michael. This was a good video. It has a lot of tips. I had stubborn stripped nuts. It took me 1.5 hours to remove. I'll try to finish installation tomorrow.. I am estimating it will take me another 1 hours or so.
Hi Michael! Thanks so so much for this comprehensive video! I replaced the liftgate trim on my 09 prius today....the plastic had actually broken away around the bolts, it was being held on by industrial strength velcro and duct tape. Your combination of detailed instructions and recommendation of a reputable replacement part saved me a $500 trip to the body shop. Much appreciated, and stay safe on the road!
I love how easy it is to live/ camp out of my Prius. It’s nice knowing other people find it practical as well, and apparently have the same issues I do 😂 very comprehensive video all the way through. Just ordered the part.
Thanks for this vid. I replaced the lift gate about 2 times already. The last time I put epoxy over the screws and plastic arm inside (which breaks). Plus I put silicone sealant in the creases of the exterior. Worked well for about 3 years, but it’s now starting to break again but the sealant and epoxy is keeping it in place. I stumbled upon your video and that is exactly what I need. I will order mine in metallic Silver.
Thank you for the great thorough video. Just replaced for my 06 after years of dealing with tape. Did need a screw extracting set- this was the most difficult part (removing the old screws and bolts).
Thanks for the tips, Michael. Saved me some time and aggravation for sure while working on my 07. But I did have some unforeseen aggravation as the 3 screws that hold the "lock" button mechanism to that little metal mounting bracket were rusted/corroded in place. Stripped in 3 seconds with a screw driver. Was able to remove 2 of 3 with Vise-Grips. I needed to go buy a screw extracting set to get the final one out. The rest of the job went smoothly - thanks for making your video. I had already bought the same part from the same company you had but I was procrastinating. Watched your video - got to it. Unfortunately they did not include the adhesive for the Toyota emblem - (and it was included in the product image and description). I've informed them that the adhesive for that was missing and asked them to send one along but I have yet to hear back from them. Fingers crossed. But I no longer need to activate the latch cautiously and then raise the hatch by lifting the spoiler :)
I had a similar issue on my '06, several screws were rusted securely in place...but this video, and the linked product were very helpful. I think I saved a few hundred dollars.
I have the exact same issue with the 3 screws that hold the "lock" button mechanism. They were completely rusted and fell apart when I tried to unscrew them. I'm going to try the vise-grip method and see how that goes. If I can't get em out, I might just cut the "lock" mechanism extension out, wrap the exposed wires with electrical tape and not use the "lock" button, which I never do. Wish me luck. BTW, this is an excellent video - by far one of the best on the latch issue.
Hi Michael. How have you been? As the world turns. Your looking good and healthy. Still surviving here. It is very important to know your vehicle. That way if something does go wrong with it or your just performing scheduled maintenance you will not have any problems. To all the Toyota Prius owners out there your video will help them out a great deal. Just hope they thumb up and subscribe. Thumb up...
Extremely helpful video. Wasnt an absolutely necessary fix for myself on my 2007, but have become tired of babying the latch and the screws I drilled through it to keep it secure are unsightly. The rubber lift button melted down to goo over time so I changed that out along with the liftgate contraption. Because of your tutorial I knew it would be worth replacing as the steps were very detailed. I ended up drilling out the 3 screws that held the electronics plate to the back of the hatch lift, as mine were also rusted through, couldnt even get a pliers grip on them, but drilling out worked like a charm. Just make sure you have replacement screws included with the new hatch lift or the right ones on hand
My trunk latch panel finally broke, the dealership quoted $500 which is nuts, I thought i was gonna have to resort to designer duct tape. But your diy tutorial was so easy to follow, i think i may give it a shot. Thank you for making such a helpful video!
Very helpful video, given that no instructions come with the replacement part. It's an excellent fix, but one annoying thing is that the sticker for the Toyota logo doesn't have holes in it , so I had to slice through it where the registration posts are. Other than that, the handle feels much more solid now with that metal in there. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the video. I had trouble finding the other colors for the replacement lift gate. I need red. Regarding the screws around the electronic latch - I replaced the rubber gasket not long ago, and the screws were very stubborn. I applied some liquid wrench, waited a few minutes, and they came out easily. The lift gate was flexing recently, and just broke. So now, I either replace as is demonstrated here, or use the adhesive method.
Another THANK YOU for the video, saving me $500 from the body shop. A 10mm deep well socket is the bomb for getting those nuts off the inside of the hatch. For the rusted bolts on the lock mechanism, with the Phillips heads that instantly stripped out: I used a Dremel cut-off wheel to carve slots into the heads, sprinkled Liquid Wrench like holy water, then jacked a flat-blade bit into my impact driver. Whoosh, out they came -- tore 'em up good, but there were new ones in the box with the new handle assembly. Ditto to Cindy Levy's recommendation to stuff a rag into the receiver slot of the latch mechanism, on the rear deck. You don't want the lid to fall closed and latch while you're midway in the process. Last tidbit: If you're not used to dealing with the persnickety plastic clips that hold the cover on the inside of the hatch lid, you need to know that when you pry that big black cover off, some of the clips may pop off and stay on the lid rather than come off with the cover. Use a knife blade and two screwdrivers to gently get under the lip of each clip and pry it out of the metal lid, then clip them back into the black plastic cover. Then it'll all snap back into place when you're done. Transferring the decal at the end took half an hour. You have to painstakingly whittle all of the old adhesive off the back of the decal. And it's true that the new adhesive plate didn't have cutouts for the two pegs, so fussing with poking holes in the right place is tricky. It's worth it, though, to see how pretty it all looks when it's done. The black latch looks fine against my blue 2007 paint job.
This video saved me hundreds vs having the Toyota dealer do it. Part he recommends is probably better than what I would have gotten at Toyota since it has metal reinforcement. Would assume the Toyota part would be 100% plastic like the original. Make sure you follow his instructions about disconnecting the wire to the buttons and not trying to pass the button through the handle. Watched the video then waited a few days for the part to show up and completely forgot about that part. Wasted 30 minutes trying to get the button through the bracket.
Hi Michael, thanks for creating and posting this video. Very helpful - much better than the other one I found for our Prius 2005. As others have commented, removing the small screws from the handle and lock/unlock mechanism is the most difficult. For me it required the right type ("flat") philips screwdriver and application of a LOT of force - but a drill would have stripped the screws, so I'm glad I did not use that. Also at 4:10 in your video, you show how you did something out of order. Not sure how much work it would be, but if you were to stop the video at 3:30 and put a big red "don't do this" sign over the sequence where you incorrectly disassembled the lift latch (instead of threading it through the old liftgate), that would be more helpful. Otherwise, really helpful, all the way to the end where you explain how to transfer the decal. Very nice! Thanks again.
Just had to do this for my sister-in-law. Very good video, if a little wordy at times 😉 hahaha But, the part was great & the video was very helpful! I did end up just using a Dremel to make removing the screws from the trigger quicker. Appreciate the video man!
Great video man and attention to detail! I noted below I lost the 1/4" 10mm socket when removing. I'll probably try to Jerry rig something to re-enforce the one I got from the yard if I can. I'm guessing can't, oh! I'll try to make a video if I can stay warm. Best regards and thanks for sharing man!
After installing the new emblem, did you need to use a heatgun or anything to keep it in place? How meticulously did you need to clean the emblem before putting it back on? Mine is rather covered in rubbery bits from the old adhesive and getting it off has been a real pain. Do I need to get it all off really?
Thank You so much for sharing Gerry! In a cold climate and have been dragging my feet for a few months on this project. Was hoping to find an easier way to deal with it! I still have to deal with brakes, rotors, PVC and plugs... It's a 2006 + 100k miles and had the trac battery changed a couple years ago for about $2.5K. never see 52mpg on it these days it about 41mpg on it. I did change parking and inside lights to LEDs and the hatch pistons. Still burns oil given the engine piston tol. so I always have to watch that. So for now it does what I need. Thanks Again and Kind Regards Rich
I ordered a liftgate panel via Amazon and it is different than the one in the video and mine came with no instructions. The "smart entry hole" bracket on it comes attached but I have no idea what the hole is for. In your video you put the small square cover in the hole and then attach a bracket that was already attached to my new panel. Is that for a camera? That brace has the screws that imply wiring is secured by this piece. Your video didn't really explain it but maybe that's because I don't have a camera?
My friend is looking to do this, but nearly all of the bolts, nuts, and screws in her broken piece are rusted and can't be re-used. Do you know where I can get replacements?
I found your video and ordered the part. Thanks for posting! I am just today working on this. The nuts you took off on Step 1 so easily are not at all easy on my 2009 Prius. Any thoughts or pointers? There is very little clearance to use a tool and my fingers are just not making the nut turn.
definitely. Best bet would probably be to break them loose with a proper-sized wrench, as the form factor on those is often smaller than an adjustable crescent wrench. Wishing you the best with your liftgate replacement and everything else you've got in store. Thanks for the question
I live in the rusty New England snow belt, and the button switch parts are completely corroded and I am unable to remove. I have two choices, replace (parts start at $80 on EBay) or just cut that part off and only keep the lift gate handle. Anyone know if I can get away with eliminating the button on a 2008 Prius?
I had the same problem in Minnesota. Screws for the entire piece are inside the car, no issues once I had a 10mm deep socket. Screws for the main button no problems either. But the 3 screws for the small square button were rusted on and clearly not coming off with a simple screwdriver. What worked: used a hammer and a flat screwdriver, to bust the plastic holding the metal bracket on. Now the button bracket was free but still had the rusty screws in it. Picked out a drill bit slightly smaller than the screws - and drilled through them. Screws fell off, leaving me able to move it over using the new screws that came with the kit. Need to buy a new drill bit now, but it worked!
It should be noted that the Prius rear hatch is a 'system', and was designed in such a way that the rear hatch lifting struts are a vital part of the whole. The so called "Garnish" has an electronic switch which will open the hatch's lower latch mechanism for only a very limited time. Without the hatch struts actively lifting the whole upwards, within that short time that the latch is open, the latch mechanism will close again, and prevent the hatch from being lifted by the user's hand. So when this happens the typical user, assuming that the latch has opened and remains open for an extended period, will try and lift at the garnish with considerable force, often increasing their efforts when it doesn't lift - thinking it must be "stuck". The result is a broken garnish, maybe not at first, but surely after repeated 'gorilla' jerks! I know because I made this mistake! A mitigating factor is that the struts fail relatively slowly and almost never completely. They "sorta" work for awhile, but they become progressively weaker, and eventually are unable to provide enough initial lift to promptly free the heavy hatch from the lower latch mechanism - during the brief time it remains open. So yes, repair or replace the Garnish, but check out your struts while you're at it! The struts are actually relatively easy to replace. Non-OEM struts can be had for as little as USD 29, delivered! If Toyota is to be faulted, it should be for designing a rather elegant and sophisticated system, a system that is a poor match for the average Amurkhan... 🙃
Yup. When shopping for a new car to replace wife's Prius, she kept on insisting for power assisted hatch because she hated to lifting the Prius hatch (due to old weak struts). I replaced the struts on the Prius. I hope that changes her mind about requiring power assisted hatch when it comes time to replace the Prius.
Hi guys, for anyone who has watched this video and thought this would be an easy fix I'm currently in the process and I want to let you know that getting the bolt and screws out may end up being your worst nightmare. Lol I actually thought wow maybe I'll get lucky and be able to remove the nuts by hand. Nope. First of all it's nearly impossible to get your hands in a good position to actually unscrew it with your hands. But either way they could be very tight even ones that have no rusted or complications. And then you think oh I'll get a 10 mm socket wrench will do the trick something long enough to get through that hole and also reach the nut. Mmm wrong again because it needs to also be deep to allow the threaded bolt to pass through it. I was lucky I found a screw and socket kit that just barley worked. That worked for one bolt. But all the other ones had broken plastic and rusted metal on the outside part. Lots of cutting later and pliers later I go two of them out in that way. I still have one more to go :( . And then comes the three screws on the right side of the handle. Oh man I thought oh those little things will be easy. Gaaah they were so rusted and I gave it a few tries and now it's all stripped. PLEASE use a rubber band under the screw driver head before it gets too stripped and also make sure you clean the bolt first and figure out exactly the right size before giving it a good turn. Anyways now I'm gunna have to consider drilling the screw or breaking off the thick plastic piece that it's screwed on to. By the way you don't need all the nuts I'm sure three is fine like he says BUT unfortunately you must get all of them out because any bolt remaining on the exterior side does not let the new assembly lay flat.
The socket thingy that worked for me was: Craftsman Metric 1/4-in Drive 6-point 10Mm Deep Socket Model #: cmmt44407 For whatever reason I didn't have trouble with nuts holding the big panel on, or the screws for the main switch. The screws for the little button are the only ones to rusted to remove myself, tomorrow going to take the panel to my hardware store or mechanic and see if they have a way to break those small screws off.
Thanks dude! Took 2 hours - this saved an expensive shop visit
Bought the part on Amazon, followed the steps in this video, worked great. THANKS !
Good video. A 10mm deep socket is your friend for this job, it makes it a lot easier to tighten the four nuts that hold the panel into place.
I literally lost mine in the hatch when removing one. Thankfully, I brought a wrench with so could budge where my cold numb fingers weren't able to spin off. Now I'm more poor. But the car looks nice and I'm thinking how am I going to struggle with re-enforcing before I re-install this kit.
You were very thorough, it looks easy and very organized. Can I see you make a video with your daily routine living in car. I’m addicted to watching campers routine specially on rainy nights. Very relaxing.
haha. I'll be making a lot more tutorial content-related to the lifestyle aspect of living out of a Prius-later in the year. Hopefully it provides some of what you're looking for
Thank you so much! This made it very easy to replace my lift gate. It has crumbled into pieces and was hanging by the wires. Previous owners used epoxy and I had glued and taped it previously. Now it looks brand new.
Thanks for your thorough installation guide. I'm ready to tackle this project tomorrow.
Thank you for your video! It was a lot of help. I finally got around to replacing the garnish in my son's Prius after having the part for some time (yes, his 63-year-old mother is better at mechanical stuff than he is ;-). A few additional tips: 1. Put an old blanket, towel, sweatshirt or something over where the latch engages on the floor - sitting on the edge facing out makes it easier to work on the inside of the hatch, just pull the hatch down over your lap (though you might have to scrunch up a bit to fit). 2. Wrap a cloth around the latch on the hatch - hitting your head on it while getting in & out of the cargo area hurts! Also, 1 & 2 keep the latch from engaging while you're working on the garnish. 3. Since you'll need to pull the electronics wire out eventually anyway, do so initially - removing the screws from the button electronics assembly on the garnish is a lot easier when you can get it away from the car and onto a solid surface. I thought at first that meant trying to pull the wire out through the rubber grommet, which isn't going to happen, but the grommet itself comes out fairly easily. 4. Those screws on the button electronics assembly wouldn't budge for me no matter what, and they stripped quite easily. But I was able to use a screw extractor to get them out (the one I have is www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6PM32/?coliid=I2T5MY6OG74AKV&colid=11MXP26CL66XK&psc=1&ref_=gv_ov_lig_pi_dp - #2 did the trick); luckily, the new garnish came with replacements for these screws. And, lastly: 5. If you do need to replace any of the nuts (I needed one), they're metric 5 - .8 flange nuts; Home Depot didn't have flange nuts in that size when I went, but a regular nut works fine with a washer for that size + a slightly larger washer. Thanks again, Michael, for the help!
Thanks, I did cover the latch connect with an old tablecloth which did help.
Thanks Cindy for the extra info
Very helpful
Just finished replacing the handle following your instructions. Thanks for making this video, life saver.
Glad I’m not the only one that had some tape action going on
I am a follower of you from Jordan in the Middle East thank you
Thanks Michael for your research and suggestions, my liftgate just gave out after 20 years.
Just got enough time and money to get this piece and place it in. Great find.
Thank you for posting a concise & clear video on how to do this job.
you're welcome
Thank you for taking the time to record this, I really needed this
Thank you so much for your wonderful video! Worked perfectly and exactly like you said. The dang screws around the black button housing had me for a minute, but after they were super striped, the plastic was so rotten around the housing that I was able to just break off the plastic and unscrew the back. The new amazon piece came with new screws. I am 62 years old and just delighted by how much money I have saved doing this. Thank you !
Thank you so much. Just completed my fix. The hand sanitizer tip was super pro. You read my mind. Thanks again!
Thanks Michael, my husband and I just did the replacement over this Memorial Day weekend (2023). We have a 2004 Prius with no side button which simplifies the replacement slightly. We also didn't bother replacing the Toyota logo, instead a flying spaghetti monster will grace that location - much more fun. Like the others said, lovely to not have to pay hundreds of $ to a body shop.
Thanks so much I just did mine thanks to your video! You should put affiliate links for all the different colors!
Your video was a great help in the installation of the replacement Lift-Gate of our 2005 Toyota Prius. Ordered the product described in your URL link and received it this past Friday and then the project began on Saturday.Took about 3 hours for the entire job, had some bolts and nuts that had to be removed by a dremel tool and also had to purchase a deep socket for removing some of the nuts from the long bolts and two were in tight places. Also took me and my wife working together on various steps in order for the proper tension and position for everything fitting correctly. Bottom line is that the new replacement part in 100% better then the factory part and works better than the original. This upgrade is something we should have executed years ago.
Thanks Michael. This was a good video. It has a lot of tips. I had stubborn stripped nuts. It took me 1.5 hours to remove. I'll try to finish installation tomorrow.. I am estimating it will take me another 1 hours or so.
Thanks for your demonstration, just finished replacing my liftgate!
Thank you, I love my 2009 Prius also. But it won't pass inspection till I fix the back gate. These instructions came in real handy!
Hi Michael! Thanks so so much for this comprehensive video! I replaced the liftgate trim on my 09 prius today....the plastic had actually broken away around the bolts, it was being held on by industrial strength velcro and duct tape. Your combination of detailed instructions and recommendation of a reputable replacement part saved me a $500 trip to the body shop. Much appreciated, and stay safe on the road!
I love how easy it is to live/ camp out of my Prius. It’s nice knowing other people find it practical as well, and apparently have the same issues I do 😂 very comprehensive video all the way through. Just ordered the part.
Solid vid... was able to do the entire job in 45 mins and parts is down to about $80 on Amazon. Thanks.
I'm 1 hour in and just started. This is not easy
Thanks for this vid. I replaced the lift gate about 2 times already. The last time I put epoxy over the screws and plastic arm inside (which breaks). Plus I put silicone sealant in the creases of the exterior. Worked well for about 3 years, but it’s now starting to break again but the sealant and epoxy is keeping it in place.
I stumbled upon your video and that is exactly what I need. I will order mine in metallic Silver.
Thank you for the great thorough video. Just replaced for my 06 after years of dealing with tape. Did need a screw extracting set- this was the most difficult part (removing the old screws and bolts).
Yes, the 3 screws were completely rusted and by far is the most difficult part of the job.
Thanks for the tips, Michael. Saved me some time and aggravation for sure while working on my 07. But I did have some unforeseen aggravation as the 3 screws that hold the "lock" button mechanism to that little metal mounting bracket were rusted/corroded in place. Stripped in 3 seconds with a screw driver. Was able to remove 2 of 3 with Vise-Grips. I needed to go buy a screw extracting set to get the final one out. The rest of the job went smoothly - thanks for making your video. I had already bought the same part from the same company you had but I was procrastinating. Watched your video - got to it. Unfortunately they did not include the adhesive for the Toyota emblem - (and it was included in the product image and description). I've informed them that the adhesive for that was missing and asked them to send one along but I have yet to hear back from them. Fingers crossed. But I no longer need to activate the latch cautiously and then raise the hatch by lifting the spoiler :)
I had a similar issue on my '06, several screws were rusted securely in place...but this video, and the linked product were very helpful. I think I saved a few hundred dollars.
I have the exact same issue with the 3 screws that hold the "lock" button mechanism. They were completely rusted and fell apart when I tried to unscrew them. I'm going to try the vise-grip method and see how that goes. If I can't get em out, I might just cut the "lock" mechanism extension out, wrap the exposed wires with electrical tape and not use the "lock" button, which I never do. Wish me luck. BTW, this is an excellent video - by far one of the best on the latch issue.
Thanks for heads up on disconnecting wiring at connector and feeding through (almost started disassembling the handle myself)!
Hi Michael. How have you been? As the world turns. Your looking good and healthy. Still surviving here. It is very important to know your vehicle. That way if something does go wrong with it or your just performing scheduled maintenance you will not have any problems. To all the Toyota Prius owners out there your video will help them out a great deal. Just hope they thumb up and subscribe. Thumb up...
Thank you. I hope it helps them as well. Thanks, Michael
Omg!!! This just happened to my Prius TODAY and thank god for your video & the link!
awesome to hear that. Thank you for commenting to tell me
Tanks very much for this video
Extremely helpful video. Wasnt an absolutely necessary fix for myself on my 2007, but have become tired of babying the latch and the screws I drilled through it to keep it secure are unsightly. The rubber lift button melted down to goo over time so I changed that out along with the liftgate contraption. Because of your tutorial I knew it would be worth replacing as the steps were very detailed.
I ended up drilling out the 3 screws that held the electronics plate to the back of the hatch lift, as mine were also rusted through, couldnt even get a pliers grip on them, but drilling out worked like a charm. Just make sure you have replacement screws included with the new hatch lift or the right ones on hand
Thank you oh so VERY Greatly young Sir. in making my repair so much easier to deal with..
Awesome video thanks dude just ordered my reinforced gate handle
My trunk latch panel finally broke, the dealership quoted $500 which is nuts, I thought i was gonna have to resort to designer duct tape. But your diy tutorial was so easy to follow, i think i may give it a shot.
Thank you for making such a helpful video!
Very helpful video, given that no instructions come with the replacement part. It's an excellent fix, but one annoying thing is that the sticker for the Toyota logo doesn't have holes in it , so I had to slice through it where the registration posts are. Other than that, the handle feels much more solid now with that metal in there. Thanks for the help!
Most excellent video! Thanks, the liftgate is fixed.
Thank you, Steve. I'm glad to hear that.
Thanks Michael. This was really thorough and helpful.
The Gen 2 Prius liftgate is its Achilles' Heel.
Thanks for the video. I had trouble finding the other colors for the replacement lift gate. I need red.
Regarding the screws around the electronic latch - I replaced the rubber gasket not long ago, and the screws were very stubborn. I applied some liquid wrench, waited a few minutes, and they came out easily.
The lift gate was flexing recently, and just broke. So now, I either replace as is demonstrated here, or use the adhesive method.
Thanks for sharing this video. Could go deeper on why you would want the rubber to be on top and not inside? Thanks again for your time.
Thank you so much!
you're welcome
Do you get any proceeds from the Amazon purchase when I, a youtube watcher, buys one, or should I shop around?
I do. However, I encourage you to buy one from wherever feels best to you.
Another THANK YOU for the video, saving me $500 from the body shop. A 10mm deep well socket is the bomb for getting those nuts off the inside of the hatch. For the rusted bolts on the lock mechanism, with the Phillips heads that instantly stripped out: I used a Dremel cut-off wheel to carve slots into the heads, sprinkled Liquid Wrench like holy water, then jacked a flat-blade bit into my impact driver. Whoosh, out they came -- tore 'em up good, but there were new ones in the box with the new handle assembly.
Ditto to Cindy Levy's recommendation to stuff a rag into the receiver slot of the latch mechanism, on the rear deck. You don't want the lid to fall closed and latch while you're midway in the process.
Last tidbit: If you're not used to dealing with the persnickety plastic clips that hold the cover on the inside of the hatch lid, you need to know that when you pry that big black cover off, some of the clips may pop off and stay on the lid rather than come off with the cover. Use a knife blade and two screwdrivers to gently get under the lip of each clip and pry it out of the metal lid, then clip them back into the black plastic cover. Then it'll all snap back into place when you're done.
Transferring the decal at the end took half an hour. You have to painstakingly whittle all of the old adhesive off the back of the decal. And it's true that the new adhesive plate didn't have cutouts for the two pegs, so fussing with poking holes in the right place is tricky. It's worth it, though, to see how pretty it all looks when it's done. The black latch looks fine against my blue 2007 paint job.
This video saved me hundreds vs having the Toyota dealer do it. Part he recommends is probably better than what I would have gotten at Toyota since it has metal reinforcement. Would assume the Toyota part would be 100% plastic like the original. Make sure you follow his instructions about disconnecting the wire to the buttons and not trying to pass the button through the handle. Watched the video then waited a few days for the part to show up and completely forgot about that part. Wasted 30 minutes trying to get the button through the bracket.
Hi Michael, thanks for creating and posting this video. Very helpful - much better than the other one I found for our Prius 2005. As others have commented, removing the small screws from the handle and lock/unlock mechanism is the most difficult. For me it required the right type ("flat") philips screwdriver and application of a LOT of force - but a drill would have stripped the screws, so I'm glad I did not use that. Also at 4:10 in your video, you show how you did something out of order. Not sure how much work it would be, but if you were to stop the video at 3:30 and put a big red "don't do this" sign over the sequence where you incorrectly disassembled the lift latch (instead of threading it through the old liftgate), that would be more helpful. Otherwise, really helpful, all the way to the end where you explain how to transfer the decal. Very nice! Thanks again.
Just had to do this for my sister-in-law. Very good video, if a little wordy at times 😉 hahaha But, the part was great & the video was very helpful! I did end up just using a Dremel to make removing the screws from the trigger quicker. Appreciate the video man!
Great video man and attention to detail! I noted below I lost the 1/4" 10mm socket when removing. I'll probably try to Jerry rig something to re-enforce the one I got from the yard if I can. I'm guessing can't, oh! I'll try to make a video if I can stay warm. Best regards and thanks for sharing man!
Superb video as always
Big Time Help! Thanks!
You are the goat!!!
Great video.
After installing the new emblem, did you need to use a heatgun or anything to keep it in place? How meticulously did you need to clean the emblem before putting it back on? Mine is rather covered in rubbery bits from the old adhesive and getting it off has been a real pain. Do I need to get it all off really?
Dang this was totally on point!! BLESS U!
Thanks I have the same problem on my 2008 pruis..
Very helpful. Thank you!
Omg thank uuuuuu so much for this!!!
Thank You so much for sharing Gerry! In a cold climate and have been dragging my feet for a few months on this project.
Was hoping to find an easier way to deal with it! I still have to deal with brakes, rotors, PVC and plugs... It's a 2006 + 100k miles and had the trac battery changed a couple years ago for about $2.5K. never see 52mpg on it these days it about 41mpg on it. I did change parking and inside lights to LEDs and the hatch pistons. Still burns oil given the engine piston tol. so I always have to watch that. So for now it does what I need. Thanks Again and Kind Regards Rich
I cant thank you enough. I appreciate it
I'm sadly discovering what "had to get creative" means. But I'm hopeful, because I saw how you broke apart some parts.
Dude, thank you!
Thanks it was very helpful.
Thank you very much. It was very helpful.
Thank you! ❤
Muchas gracias por tu explicacion, es muy valiosa. thank you, thank you
Hey, anyone know the size for the 4 nuts in the first disasembly step and the 3 screws for electronic components? Thanks.
I ordered a liftgate panel via Amazon and it is different than the one in the video and mine came with no instructions. The "smart entry hole" bracket on it comes attached but I have no idea what the hole is for. In your video you put the small square cover in the hole and then attach a bracket that was already attached to my new panel. Is that for a camera? That brace has the screws that imply wiring is secured by this piece. Your video didn't really explain it but maybe that's because I don't have a camera?
Thank you for this!!! Now can you come do it for me ? 😌😬
My friend is looking to do this, but nearly all of the bolts, nuts, and screws in her broken piece are rusted and can't be re-used. Do you know where I can get replacements?
My plastic clips are broken, snapped off. Do you know where I can purchase them? Helpful video, thanks!
Et le succès dans les diverses idées qui nous profitent au quotidien
Lindo como siempre 😍
Thank you..
Keep making videos! This was very comprehensive and well done. Extremely helpful. Thank you!
I have this problem where can I buy?
I found your video and ordered the part. Thanks for posting! I am just today working on this. The nuts you took off on Step 1 so easily are not at all easy on my 2009 Prius. Any thoughts or pointers? There is very little clearance to use a tool and my fingers are just not making the nut turn.
definitely. Best bet would probably be to break them loose with a proper-sized wrench, as the form factor on those is often smaller than an adjustable crescent wrench.
Wishing you the best with your liftgate replacement and everything else you've got in store. Thanks for the question
try 10 mm long ratchet with a ratchet wrench or driver. The bolts are long and my regular 10 mm wouldn't grab the nut. Best wishes!
Also, be careful not to lose the nuts as they come off like I did...still haven't found the one to retrieve it.
Thank you!
Looks like the part is only available in the US and has to be expensively shipped to where I am in Canada .
I live in the rusty New England snow belt, and the button switch parts are completely corroded and I am unable to remove. I have two choices, replace (parts start at $80 on EBay) or just cut that part off and only keep the lift gate handle. Anyone know if I can get away with eliminating the button on a 2008 Prius?
I had the same problem in Minnesota.
Screws for the entire piece are inside the car, no issues once I had a 10mm deep socket.
Screws for the main button no problems either.
But the 3 screws for the small square button were rusted on and clearly not coming off with a simple screwdriver.
What worked: used a hammer and a flat screwdriver, to bust the plastic holding the metal bracket on. Now the button bracket was free but still had the rusty screws in it. Picked out a drill bit slightly smaller than the screws - and drilled through them. Screws fell off, leaving me able to move it over using the new screws that came with the kit.
Need to buy a new drill bit now, but it worked!
There so fragile i broke mine in -6f weather.
Heat emblem with heat gun then use dental floss or the inner string of 550 cord , place behind emblem and use to cut the adhesive.
Hi long time no see
hello
Thanks a lot! My wife is getting tired of the duct tape look.
It should be noted that the Prius rear hatch is a 'system', and was designed in such a way that the rear hatch lifting struts are a vital part of the whole. The so called "Garnish" has an electronic switch which will open the hatch's lower latch mechanism for only a very limited time. Without the hatch struts actively lifting the whole upwards, within that short time that the latch is open, the latch mechanism will close again, and prevent the hatch from being lifted by the user's hand. So when this happens the typical user, assuming that the latch has opened and remains open for an extended period, will try and lift at the garnish with considerable force, often increasing their efforts when it doesn't lift - thinking it must be "stuck". The result is a broken garnish, maybe not at first, but surely after repeated 'gorilla' jerks! I know because I made this mistake! A mitigating factor is that the struts fail relatively slowly and almost never completely. They "sorta" work for awhile, but they become progressively weaker, and eventually are unable to provide enough initial lift to promptly free the heavy hatch from the lower latch mechanism - during the brief time it remains open. So yes, repair or replace the Garnish, but check out your struts while you're at it! The struts are actually relatively easy to replace. Non-OEM struts can be had for as little as USD 29, delivered! If Toyota is to be faulted, it should be for designing a rather elegant and sophisticated system, a system that is a poor match for the average Amurkhan... 🙃
Yup. When shopping for a new car to replace wife's Prius, she kept on insisting for power assisted hatch because she hated to lifting the Prius hatch (due to old weak struts). I replaced the struts on the Prius. I hope that changes her mind about requiring power assisted hatch when it comes time to replace the Prius.
Bonjour Michael Ca va bien je m'appelle mohcin habite Maroc. Je vous souhaite un bon continuation
This happened to mine too! I was pissed!
And the cámara?
Hi guys, for anyone who has watched this video and thought this would be an easy fix I'm currently in the process and I want to let you know that getting the bolt and screws out may end up being your worst nightmare. Lol I actually thought wow maybe I'll get lucky and be able to remove the nuts by hand. Nope. First of all it's nearly impossible to get your hands in a good position to actually unscrew it with your hands. But either way they could be very tight even ones that have no rusted or complications. And then you think oh I'll get a 10 mm socket wrench will do the trick something long enough to get through that hole and also reach the nut. Mmm wrong again because it needs to also be deep to allow the threaded bolt to pass through it. I was lucky I found a screw and socket kit that just barley worked. That worked for one bolt. But all the other ones had broken plastic and rusted metal on the outside part. Lots of cutting later and pliers later I go two of them out in that way. I still have one more to go :( . And then comes the three screws on the right side of the handle. Oh man I thought oh those little things will be easy. Gaaah they were so rusted and I gave it a few tries and now it's all stripped. PLEASE use a rubber band under the screw driver head before it gets too stripped and also make sure you clean the bolt first and figure out exactly the right size before giving it a good turn. Anyways now I'm gunna have to consider drilling the screw or breaking off the thick plastic piece that it's screwed on to. By the way you don't need all the nuts I'm sure three is fine like he says BUT unfortunately you must get all of them out because any bolt remaining on the exterior side does not let the new assembly lay flat.
The socket thingy that worked for me was:
Craftsman Metric 1/4-in Drive 6-point 10Mm Deep Socket
Model #: cmmt44407
For whatever reason I didn't have trouble with nuts holding the big panel on, or the screws for the main switch.
The screws for the little button are the only ones to rusted to remove myself, tomorrow going to take the panel to my hardware store or mechanic and see if they have a way to break those small screws off.
Yeah. 2 of the 4 bolts/nuts were so difficult for me. I don't know if they were stripped or just corroded bolt. Took me nearly 1.5 hours.
should've used 3M double sided tape. I used 3m on a ducktail spoiler for my other car and now I need special tools to even pry off the spoiler.
Désolé pour le désagrément
What a great video. Thank you.