How to make tight seams with a roller - Planking Remora (1928)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- Learn Lou's technique and the tools of the trade for rolling the seams on Remora for a tight fitting plank. Lou then uses TotalBoat Thixo Epoxy on the historic Herreshoff 12 1/2 to fasten oak blocks in between each frame head before he attaches the new sheer plank.
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There is a comforting feeling hearing his words. They have the simplicity of profound, unpretentious, generous wisdom.
Since I come from a boat building family I do appreciate these videos. I must congratulate this gentleman not only for this craftsmanship, but his very descriptive well chosen vocabulary to describe the procedure. Congratulations.
Absolutely a wonderful series of videos on boat building. I have enjoyed watching this build immensely. It's really great to see someone actually explain HOW things are done and WHY. Now all I need is someone to do the same thing with a series of videos for making a row boat with the same bottom as the skiff. ( Planked and no plywood)
TO BE HONEST I WAS NOT LOOKING FOR ANTHING TO DO WITH BOATS ,BUT JUST CLICKED ON YOUR CHANNEL BY ACCIDENT . FOUND IT TO BE VERY ENJOYABLE ,GREAT CRAFTMANSHIP TOO. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND KNOWLEDGE .
You have a real flare for presenting. Your experience is vast and invaluable but it's your relaxed and 'easy' manner that makes your videos so compelling - excellent in all respects Louis!
I could hang out with guys like this all day. Knowledge through a lifetime of work.
It is not just the knowledge and experience that makes this man such a craftsman it is his level of continuous, creative and detailed thinking. At the same time he is refusing to be stuck in any traditional methods but is always looking for more efficient and better ways of doing things.
I can watch a craftsman of any kind work, for hour upon hour because I am fascinated, not just by the work produced, but by the methods the craftsman employs and the thinking behind them. The knowledge of tools, materials and subject all has to be housed within a mind that has remained flexible and that is no mean feat and it raises the craftsman up out of the ordinary.
Wonderful stuff. I just wish these videos were much, much, longer.
Your ad lib commentary is phenomenal. Your apprentices were blessed sir.
That softwood, there's a product made for that. It's called PC Rot Terminator, y Protective Coating in Allentown, PA. It does exactly what they claim. I had wood that readily crumble between my fingers. I used the epoxy, it takes 3 days to cure but when it was, I slammed a hammer on it, did not phase it. It has a thin viscosity, so it penetrates the wood.
Here maybe it needs some heat to remove any moisture, but after warm, it can be treated, then drop the temperature gradually if one liked to help draw the epoxy in deeper.
For whoever may be interested.
wow, nothing more beautiful than a wooden freshly planked hull. Amazing how skilled you are, just fantastic work!
Did Saturday classes in Sausalito for a yr. Learned so much. Currently applying to IYRS as well as some Universities offering Naval architecture and Marine Engineering double major cirriculum. Bottom line... I just want to loft and build boats. For those who have tasted it, you know. For those who havent, this is a pleasure everyone should experience.
This came up in my queue today and demonstrated a brilliant method for creating the caulking gap on the strake of a boat. This method has been used for millenia in several cultures, though your approach with adapted tools is certainly brilliant. Similar tooling and methods can be found in...木殺し..."Kigoroshi"...which translates to "killing wood" and is found in every aspect of the craft from furniture and timber framing to the work of Japanese Shipwrights. Another brilliant aspect of mastering these different methods of "killing wood" is that in most species, especially if moisture of oil or even water is added the wood fibers expand to a greater size that the original dimensions. "Killing wood" with a small mallet may historically be present in the Nordic and in many Indonesian boat building traditions as well, as their caulked worked is water tight even before other treatments are applied. If any reader is more curious about...木殺し...put the "kanji" (aka Japanese characters) into a computer search engine and then go to images to see pictures and graphics of these methods. Thank you for sharing this wonderful video and your interpretation of this historic and useful method of planking a vessel...!!!
As a woodworker that knows nothing about boats or boat building, I love these videos. So awesome to see the level of knowledge and experience that he has.
I hope you live long enough to transmit all this knowledge to the next generation!
Ive never had a intrest into ships or how its done, but i definitely enjoy watching youre videos and learning something new,so thank you
Was just about to say the same thing then read your comment.
I don't own a boat and probably never will but I love watching a true master craftsman at work.
+Matthew Cartwright +1 He is excellent at his trade for sure.
+Matthew Cartwright Ain't that the truth!!!~
I am an OB and I love to watch this teacher/craftsman also. I can always pick up/use some new knowledge. lol
nance harold OB?
Old Boaty ???
I wish we could see more of the rebuild of this wonderful example of the craftsmanship of that period.
if I had a wooden boat, which I don't, you would be my guy to fix it. Your skills are incredible.
Thanks for another great video. I always learn several new tricks from each. You are absolutely a master.
You are an awesome shipwright Lou.. Thanks for posting and teaching this old dog new tricks.... Have a great day buddy C YA
Good craft brother
So nice to see a true master at work! Thanks for sharing!!
Very well explained and demonstrated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers,Rob (from Tasmania)
Such a neat method to get those seams and still keep the original amount of wood in. Neat and clean.
Very Zen
Nice tone and demeanor. A perfect way to wind down the day
First time and i subbed
Now for a little binge
Such good videos!
I always learn something from your videos. They are always well produced. Take care and thanks for the post!
Lou you are the boat wisperer love the videos, you have a whelth of knowledge.
Knowing the stresses that the shear clamp in a 12 are under, I really like your solution for fastening the shear-strake.
I know this is a sailboat channel but I’ve been adapting your tips towards repairing the wood work on my 73 Chris Craft 38 Coho and the teak is my last challenge... wonderful tips and tricks sir
You remind me of a work partner I had in the union. His name was Perry , a ships carpenter Worked for a tug boat company in Boston harbor. He taught me a lot . So do you.
Parabéns pela competência, é realmente maravilhoso o seu trabalho.
This videos are so helpful as I will start construction of my boat in July, thank you so much for sharing
NICE! Love how you did the seams, and love the added umffhh for the sheer plank and coaming.
Hi Louis, close to where I live in Ireland, there is a boatyard full of abandoned boats. In there is a 1928 William Fife 6 meter called Susette. She has been my dream boat ever since I was little (well, more so than other boats, because I adore all wooden boats) and before I was born, my mum tried to buy her. But since she sat in the yard so long, the fees were phenomenal. she sits there now, with 3\4 of her planking rotten, and her deck caving in. She is very rare, and has the most beautiful shape I have ever seen. Even though she is the love of my life, I would still rather see her being saved than me sitting there thinking about how I could run away with her. If you know anyone that could bring her back to life, please let them know! she is here in Ireland, dying in front of my eyes. I also believe that the yard owner dropped her on her starboard side, so all the planks and ribs are shot. just please spread the word to fellow shipwrights! I plan on writing an article about her in either classic boat magazine, or wooden boat magazine. I also own 7 other boats. 3 wooden boats. a 1939 Harrison butler Z4, a 1963 pilot boat tender (14ft) and an enterprise dinghy. for the tender, she has lost her stiffness, and needs re -fastening. any advice? thanks, Chris. p.s your videos are amazing.
You Sir are a true craftsman, and it is a joy to watch you work! Thank You "Ten Nails"
Look forward to your videos. Great Work. Thank You for sharing.
I like your attention to details Sir. Would like to know if you guys need help doing exactly what you are doing fella ?? vf
Damn...... this guy is a humble artist!
Lou is a wizard!
Lou, appreciate you sharing.
Are you going to do another build soon I hope
Fantastic work sir.
Awesome craftsmanship
Awsome video i cold watch you work and learn from you all day iv allways wanted to build a ⛵
4:44 does that Epoxy come pree packaged or do you mix and fill the tube applicator?
Great Videoa Louis. I have learned something new on every one.
Is there any concern that by adding the blocks between the frames and behind the clamp that air circulation under the deck might become a problem?
Where do you buy your planks for boat building & do you sell any plans?
Where do you get these wood planks?
Where could someone buy that hand tool & your other hand tools?
Would you please send me information on where to buy these specialty tools?
I would be very grateful! Thank you!
What a great teacher!
I notice that the plank thickness looks to be about 3/4". Is that about the minimum you would consider for carvel?
A true professional!
Are those screws temporary? They look like drywall screws. Won't those rust right out in the water?
Wow a master at his craft
What material will you caulk the planks with?
Louis I have recently finished the planking on a haven 12 1 1/2 plus the cotton all went well.......then today I received some interlux #30 brown seam compound and It has the consistancy of clay very tough to spread.....can I thin this stuff to make it work easier what can I use. thanks lou
Excellent - bravo.
Good job, there's a lot to learn. Like.
Looking good!!!👍💯👌
Hi Louis, I’ve been following your builds for a while. Does this technique work for larger boats with thicker planking? I’m looking to build a 38 foot trawler with 1 1/2 inch planking?
What an awesome channel!
I wish I could win the lottery and go hang out with this man and build us both a couple of beautiful boats ...hey I can wish rite.?
More brilliant stuff. Thank you !
Nice done.
You're like a boat magician
You got some mad skills!
Thanks and respect !
Brilliant! Why doesn't the epoxy go off in the tube?
There are two chambers in the tube, one resin, one hardener. The two parts are mixed within the applicator tip which has a helictical structure built in. The only problem I’ve found with it is if you don’t uses the whole tube before the epoxy goes off in the nozzle, it of course becomes irrevocably clogged. Usually a tube comes with a spare tip and a plug for the tube at the nozzle attach point should you want to use the rest of it later.
Amazing 👍👍👍
Hi Lou. How does the use of apoxy affect future restoration? Have you run into this situation?
At about 2:50 you said you were going to fill some cracks with cindipoxy. What is that? I'm sure I'm spelling it incorrectly.
thinned epoxy?
awesome woodworking
louis,i love your videos,ive learned a lot from them,,,paul
đúng là một thợ mộc giỏi và kỹ tính.
Repositioning the wood not removing it nice work
Rebuilding a 1972 Chou Lee,,topside and bulkheads are wood,,I was lucky,the top sides of the frames were epoxied,,it saved me lots of work,,,down here in Florida,the sun and moisture and toridoes will eat up your wood like marshmallows,oh,and termites,,have you ever used paduk,,beautiful wood (interior)
And so the squished wood can swell when wet grabbing the packing cool....I'd love to work for this guy
I like your videos
The squeezed wood will try to expand back out again when wet, right? I can see how this would be a good thing but do you have to account for that?
That was pretty much the question I was looking for. Wondering about the effect when in the water with such a good dry fit. Would it actually start compressing or even buckle the planks. I usually go for steel but love the feel of a timber vessel.
Nice work 😍🔥
Love those "Cared for skilled hands of his" many a nick and scrape""
It's because he is a wizard!
Excellent videos, only thing that bugs me is that I've read a lot of times you must use gloves when working with epoxy. Exposure can sensitize you so you can become allergic to it.
Hi Lou, how did REMORA turn out?
awesome work thanks for sharing
Sir, are those screws being used sheet rock screws?
Obviously being used as temporary fasteners otherwise he would not be able to remove the planks to roll the seams without destroying expensive copper rivets
lol, Can't glue to a bunch of fuzz. That made me laugh.
Everyone to there own game, nice.
There is absolutely nothing META could offer that would be near as interesting as reality.
What is your old?
Interesting to know what would have been done previously , say 50 years ago to secure the top plank
Probably sister the frames near the sheer and fasten the sheer strake to that
I wish you'd mentioned something about species choices for this "crush-seam" method. Point is, it's gotta be something rather soft for this trick to work, I think?
I'm assuming that's maybe Atlantic White Cedar planking in use here? (First I was going to say Maine/Northern White, which is the softest of the "Cedars". But to find that much NWC with NO knots, is pretty much impossible, from all I've ever heard.) I don't expect this would be possible with something like one of the "mahoganies", for instance. (Certainly not "African Mahogany", anyway. I don't think anyone's trying to find true Honduras Mahogany anymore, but even that must be too hard for this.)
For us on the West Coast, I think Doug Fir would similarly be too hard (and grainy = inconsistent crush strength on edges). Our Western Red Cedar would probably be the only other common mainstream North American planking species, that would be soft enough to do this reliably. Alaskan Yellow Cedar, another West Coast favorite, is the one I'd be curious to test. It's significantly harder than Western Red, so might be rather difficult to use it with this method, but maybe not impossible.
+boatrat74 White Oak frames - th-cam.com/video/dzCmES_Lwrs/w-d-xo.html and Cedar planks.
+Tips from a Shipwright
I believe you mean the frames, floors, (and presumably backbone) are all W.Oak (as discussed in your linked vid.)? Surely you don't mean you used White Oak for PLANKING on a boat this small? It LOOKS a bit like Western Red Cedar, but a much more consistent, lighter color. I was only asking about planking stock species on this boat specifically, as it pertains to "crush-ability" of the edges for this "squashed-seam" caulking-bevel method you're showing here.
+Tips from a Shipwright
I now see your edit re. "Cedar". For us West-Coasters, that's still a little ambiguous as to species. But the important point was about the softness, as I expected. Thanks for the info.
se sapessi l'inglese, sarebbe meraviglioso!
i like this guy
Many great tips here, thank you.
I am in the process of fixing a 50 year old, small 24" fishing boat with pine planking.
I'm concerned with the linseed putty caulking, because the oil in it has been sucked into the wood and made the putty hard, brittle, and useless. After removing the putty and cleaning the gap (th-cam.com/video/03U09d_RvkQ/w-d-xo.html), should I saturate with oil, then stuff the oakum, then seal with some sort of shellac, and then fill new putty... ? OR is there a better way to keep the oil in the putty from getting sucked into the wood? Do you have any tips on this ?
Tl;dr it’s like knurling for wood. You smash the material without removing any to change it’s shape
Conceptually and broadly, yes: It's deformation rather than subtraction, just as knurly is deformation rather than addition.
Roller burnishing is routinely done for metal, but the second stage doesn't have an obvious metalworking parallel I can think of - I guess if building a commutator from scratch, if the copper was pure (and hence soft) you could fine tune the gaps to accept spacer bars by a similar technique.
wrong screws is used. black screws is for drywall to metal
That thing’s gonna leak like a sieve... haha, just kidding. Nice work!
Crusty old fart knows his stuff !! Thumbs up !!!
killing the wood
Are those drywall screws?? LOL
Nice caulk