ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
Taping is the BEST Way to Prevent Finger Injuries | Climbing Myths
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2019
- For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: www.hoopersbet...
In this episode we look at some of the facts of taping and how it may or may not be helpful for your climbing.
Stay tuned until the end for a demonstration of H-Taping.
Other videos on climbing misconceptions:
Crimping: • Is Full Crimping Reall...
Anti-inflammatories: • Video
Special thanks to The Wall for letting us film! @thewallclimbinggym
For more info visit RockTherapyPT.com
Instagram: @rocktherapypt
Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
www.emilemodesitt.com
Instagram: @emile166
Update 6/21/2022: The forces on the A2 pulley we mention in this video (280 N, 400 N, 450 N), etc. are potentially outdated or under-estimated. Other research suggests climbers' A2 pulleys can withstand anywhere from 380-1000 N or more. We will be making an updated video about taping in the near future to clear this up!
Would you link it under this comment or description later? Thanks a lot!!
Main reason I use tape is to prevent getting massive flappers from finger calluses and for that it works great.
11-13% strain reduction and also a reduction in pain is nice. I'll stick to taping.
Thought the same!
Yeah, while I'm sure Hooper's points are quite valid, if you're doing fine climbing at 90-95% effort, want to push a bit more, but feel that your fingers won't be able to handle the extra load, an extra 10% load handling might be all that's needed!
Further, the math behind calculating tape strength vs. tendon strength seems a bit too simplistic. I don't think anyone expects that tape wrapped around a finger is directly taking on the load placed on the fingertips. Rather, the tape is redirecting the force vectors on the underlying tendons, so it doesn't necessarily need to handle the full 400 newton load (or whatever), it just needs to be able to apply sufficient inward pressure to the tendon and finger tissue to reduce the potentially harmful forces to a manageable point.
I started to use tape after I got injured, even if I had tape I never used it before. I can see some benefits, definitely.
ikr 11% is huge!
You could also multiply the strength of the tape by the amount of wraps. Following your logic, tape would be busting all the time, which it doesn't because people don't do a single wrap. Also multiple wraps prevents some stretching. Experience speaks for itself: when done properly, which is specific to each injury, taping CAN help. Glad you did your math, but I'm sorry to say that your logic is a little rigid here.
their logic is far off on this video. it wont matter if the tape supports 10kN if the pulley has been stretched way past injury. between the tape and pulley is a squishy material called skin which would be the ultimate factor in how much load is transferred from the pulley to the tape.
thank you... I wrap around 3 times and that never fails
man you deserve 10k views
You were right, they are now at 12k 😉👍
i only use tape for flappers so I can still climb even with flappers or when recovering from flappers, rarely get flappers anymore though, last time it was due to weighted finger boarding and campus boarding.
Taping for skin is definitely acceptable :)
I really wish you had mentioned protecting 'flappers' in the video, as that's basically the only time I use tape. As you said in a comment, that's a valid way to use it, right?
Haha yes, that's how I use it, just if I have a flapper and want to keep climbing.
More climbers need to watch your channel! - Commenting for algorithms lol
I have been taping my fingers sometimes just nyt wrapping the tape so that it prevents me to crimp if I had some slight tweak on my finger. For me the point on taping is mostly to limit the flexion of PIP- joint and so trying to keep the joint in More pulley- friendly zone of flexion angle. I also tape flappers and wounds usually. Thanks for informative Channel!
I would love it if you made a video on swollen pip and dip joints. I've run into a lot of conflicting advice on that type of injury online
Great idea. That's a tough one because there can be multiple causes but I can definitely get a video made outlining some common causes and treatments!
@@HoopersBeta That would be awesome!
@@HoopersBeta I vote for PIP!!! please
@@BlessUpDiHerbs We will work on it this weekend and get it out soon! Thanks for the feedback.
@@HoopersBeta That would be awesome, very common injury and virtually no info on it!
What about taping around the wrist for a TFCC sprain?
I've been taping my injured A2 pulley for a couple weeks, it turns my climbs from being a bit painful to zero pain, no lasting pain after the session.
Would it be better to just put up with the pain or keep taping the finger until it's healed
You might need to just stop training till it’s better man
@@Limbaugh_ stopping training on a pulley injury isn't the way to go. Better to not over stress it but keep it active. It got better quite quickly after posting this.
@@afailable oh word I’ll just take notes
Your content is stellar!
Awesome video, I'm so surprised you don't get more views. I'm curious where I could find some of the research you're mentioning? Would love to have it for my own library, thanks so much and keep it up!!
Edit: saw on your website that will be something you include with videos in the future. Awesome!!! Again keep it up, I use your videos a ton for references for my friends.
Yeah! included references will continue to be a focal point going forward so that everyone can access and see the work we are using. We continue to evolve and improve the process and that's a big part of it. Thanks for subbing and sharing with your friends!
Very informative but I have a question about the forces. Can you really compare the force required to break the tape with the force required to rupture the pulley? Is the 400 N the force along the tendon or is it the force perpendicular to the tendon pushing out on the pulley? By mentioning breaking force you are implying that the tape will break, has this ever happened?
I doubt you can really make any perfect comparisons between the strength of tape and the strength of a finger pulley because you’ll of course have variables like tape thickness, width, number of wraps, etc. The demonstration and description in this video is just meant to give people an idea of how taping isn’t the end-all solution to finger injuries and not a replacement for healthy pulleys.
the first minutes of the video I was like "oh man, now my research to actually find out the H taping method and the tape I just bought was a waste...". But luckily at the end I found what I was searching for: how to do H tape AND that it is "legitimate" in my case :D, which is wanting to do some moderate climbing with an already injured and partially recovered pulley (A3 or A4). Thanks!
We've got an updated video coming out about taping on Monday so keep an eye out :)
I have a really light sprain on my a5 pulley of my index finger, i can hardly locate it by pressing on the joint, i have to search for it. Nonetheless i know there is something. I just came back from a finger injury, which i did not tape at all and i had some occasions, where i used the injured finger too much. But with this small injury now, i am trying to immobilise the joint by using a broad tape and continue climbing, avoiding crimping and small holds. I plan to this for two weeks, one has passed. The injury, which maybe just an overstretch, is feeling better every day. I think taping in this case is beneficial, because it lets me continue to climb on a fairly high level, but provides protection against any cicumstance, which could worsen the injury.
For me tape is useful, because it helps me to remember, that there is an injury to think about when climbing and it prevents me from overusing the injured finger.
By the way: Great channel and very good presentation, if you keep the quality up, you will get your audience. Maybe use better tagging :) Just sports is not enough.
Appreciate the share and the support! I may need to hire some tagging gurus haha. But back to the issue, you are correct. Taping can have a huge mental aspect and remind people about their injury so they don't keep going crazy on it. The importance is recognizing who you are and if it will keep you patient with your injury or make you feel invincible lol.
So even if wo take that ~10% advantage of tape, which is highly dependent on how you use it exactly. It is probably enough to protect your pulleys. When I ripped mine. It was not a Fall or really extreme load. Just a far away crimp on which I held on. So what I am trying to say here: I think the 10% would have been enpugh to save my pulley, cause it wasnt that much over the top force there that ripped it.
I just ripped a huge chunk of skin off my index finger while climbing yesterday. Should I take time off to let the skin regrow or would taping it over be alright?
Was there any bleeding? If you exposed yourself that deeply then you need to be more careful so you don't introduce bacteria or any infection, otherwise taping can be useful to simply protect your skin. That's the one thing I actually use taping for, protecting skin if I want to keep climbing but have any flappers or am just worn down. I just don't depend on it for any mechanical advantage.
@@HoopersBeta No bleeding, I've been keeping it clean and using anti-bacterial cream. Thanks for all the great vidoes!
@@Skylordmario Thanks for following along, glad you are enjoying them!
Hinted by the name pulley, a wrap counts as double in force calculations. Twist a piece of tape a couple of turns so its more of a "rope". Tape from both sides of the "rope" so you get the sandwiched equiivelent of 1 layer, 1 twisted layer and then 1 layer. Make a U out of this and pinch it with welding visors 4-6mm apart. Put it on a hanged scale and see where it breaks. I am betting it breaks at 140kg. Next one to bet to get this test done? :-D
Great video and info as always. Curious if H taping is only when going for higher grades or closed crimping to protect A2/A4? Wondering if Evolv tape would provide same level support as regular tape? I only use Evolv tape for friction reduction and soak up blood on fingers. 😆
Not sure about evolv vs regular tape but we are planning a follow up vid in the near future!
Is taping useful in Gi Jiu Jitsu? Reducing how tight you grip?
From personal experience, Gi Jiu Jitsu really aggravated my A4 finger injury I had from climbing. I H-taped for climbing and for BJJ and it helped me a ton for both!
The thing I think this video misses the most is that H-taping (or other methods) limits your max range of motion. You're significantly weaker at the ends of your range of motion, and your joints/tendons/pulleys are at much more aggressive angles, making it much easier to exceed what your body is built for. Crimping and Gi grips both put your fingers into these abnormal hyper-stressed positions. Taping helps mitigate the stress from these positions and, I believe, absolutely helps prevent injury, and more so, helps prevent reinjury
good point, it one thing saying things. showing real references are another
Last year I pulled three pulley tendons in just one session on an easy canvas board. It sounds just as dumb to me as it does to anyone reading this, but I have literally no idea how I did it. There was no moment in which I felt it 'go,' no slips or falls, just woke up the next morning in agony. One YEAR after the injury the pain finally went away. This was a month or two ago. I restarted climbing, no issues, then during my last session the pain came back. I can't train other sports due to back and knee injuries, I'm fucking done with waiting. If taping helps just 1% I'm all for it.
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Have you talked to a PT? One with climbing experience could help you heal up.
Hi! Can h taping be used during the immobilisation period after an A4 pulley rupture or is it just for when you return to climbing?
Yes, it certainly can be used while in the immobilization period after a rupture. A better option my be a brace/splint though.
Well 13% with H-taping doesn't sound too bad
Not bad! Not wonderful, but not bad :)
is tape usefull if you have a cut on your finger or shall you just use a plaster
Every situation is different and calls for the right tools. Sometimes medical glue is awesome, but it also can dry up and not work well with constant movements. Other times yeah of course taping can be helpful to prevent direct and continued stress to the tissue but don't forget to clean and disinfect so you can heal properly.
@@HoopersBeta thanks man
on the same page of myths or true, what about chalk?
😢still waiting on an answer
Any guitar players watching this?
First