Take a sheet of sandpaper and "shine your shoes". Your contours will be straight as an arrow from peghead to heel. Also International Violin Company in Baltimore sells very cheap rasps which I find exceptional. They cut super fast but fine. Many sizes.
@@BeauHannamGuitars I'll have to check on the next neck... I'm very particular regarding straightness from heel to volute but without seeing exactly what you are doing I don't have an answer to why it doesn't work for you. I use 80 grit with heavy paper backing. The only issue is bearing down too hard and the ends start to tear. Not contradicting your experience at all but, indeed, puzzled. Thanks again for so much useful content!!!
@@docscantlin shoe shine is good for fine grits but the problem with shoe shine method at courser grits is the middle of the neck receives twice as much sanding as the ends (if you go back and forth which you need to to not have scratch marks across the grain)
@@BeauHannamGuitars Ah, mystery solved, yes I go across the grain. This is just to final shape after draw knife, spokeshave and rasps. Then we go with the grain just to sand out scratches; not taking and appreciable material away.
Great tip. I will definitely be making some of those blocks and getting some of that abrasive paper. Just starting on a tenor neck in the next couple of weeks so very timely. Thanks!
The stik it paper is really handy- i have heaps of different shaped blocks with it for general sanding as well as specially dedicated blocks like this tool :)- LMI and or Stewmac also sell less then 15 yards which is good if you dont use alot of it
@@BeauHannamGuitars I usually use normal paper and a spray adhesive but it is a bit messy. Had a look here in the UK and its pretty hard to find and very expensive if you can get it unfortunately.
Interesting. Astronomers use a similar “horizon” shadow trick to estimate the height of crater rims. I will have to check the flatness of my tenor necks. Something I have previously gauged only by feel. 😀
I thought I had done a neck carving video but it appears I haven't!!!!!- so that will be my neck big video- I didn't know that Astronomers use a “horizon” shadow trick to estimate the height of crater rims - something i'll research to include in a neck carving video.:) BTW- "feel" is all that matters in the end and a neck that is or isn't flat doesn't actually matter is it feels good (ie not bad) and plays well. But from a luthier's perspective, getting a flat surface is just good woodworking and also far easier to finish.
Hi thanks for the tip. I am attempting to thin down my clumpy parlour neck a wee bit. I do have plenty of woodwork experience, but no luthiery experience. I am in no rush, and would appreciate tips on doing this correctly. Do you think just using the wooden sanding block would do the trick? Or would you use rasps first? I just want to change the profile a bit and make the neck thinner.
Thanks!
Always great tips, Beau.
Thanks- ,my pleasure
thank you Beau
My pleasure
Well now that you've shown us, why didn't I think of this. Great advice thanks for sharing
My pleasure :)
Thanks Beau, great tip. Wil make wok easier for sure
My pleasure - It sure does make it easier-
Thanks Beau, I like the light trick I have too try that 💪💪💪🎸🎸
My pleasure - yep- the light is a good one- i think (????) i did a video on it in more detail.
Take a sheet of sandpaper and "shine your shoes". Your contours will be straight as an arrow from peghead to heel. Also International Violin Company in Baltimore sells very cheap rasps which I find exceptional. They cut super fast but fine. Many sizes.
Shoe shining don't make a flat surface- its good at 220 grit to finish up.
@@BeauHannamGuitars I'll have to check on the next neck... I'm very particular regarding straightness from heel to volute but without seeing exactly what you are doing I don't have an answer to why it doesn't work for you. I use 80 grit with heavy paper backing. The only issue is bearing down too hard and the ends start to tear. Not contradicting your experience at all but, indeed, puzzled. Thanks again for so much useful content!!!
@@docscantlin shoe shine is good for fine grits but the problem with shoe shine method at courser grits is the middle of the neck receives twice as much sanding as the ends (if you go back and forth which you need to to not have scratch marks across the grain)
@@BeauHannamGuitars Ah, mystery solved, yes I go across the grain. This is just to final shape after draw knife, spokeshave and rasps. Then we go with the grain just to sand out scratches; not taking and appreciable material away.
Great tip. I will definitely be making some of those blocks and getting some of that abrasive paper. Just starting on a tenor neck in the next couple of weeks so very timely. Thanks!
The stik it paper is really handy- i have heaps of different shaped blocks with it for general sanding as well as specially dedicated blocks like this tool :)- LMI and or Stewmac also sell less then 15 yards which is good if you dont use alot of it
@@BeauHannamGuitars I usually use normal paper and a spray adhesive but it is a bit messy. Had a look here in the UK and its pretty hard to find and very expensive if you can get it unfortunately.
@@WansbeckBikecam yer- the spray stuff is kinda horrible but it works good (i always spray it outside)
Interesting. Astronomers use a similar “horizon” shadow trick to estimate the height of crater rims.
I will have to check the flatness of my tenor necks. Something I have previously gauged only by feel. 😀
I thought I had done a neck carving video but it appears I haven't!!!!!- so that will be my neck big video- I didn't know that Astronomers use a “horizon” shadow trick to estimate the height of crater rims - something i'll research to include in a neck carving video.:)
BTW- "feel" is all that matters in the end and a neck that is or isn't flat doesn't actually matter is it feels good (ie not bad) and plays well. But from a luthier's perspective, getting a flat surface is just good woodworking and also far easier to finish.
@@BeauHannamGuitars And I will definitely construct the sanding tool you demonstrated.
FWIW I like to use a cork backer on the block
Cork is usually good, but not absolutely needed in this case. It might be good on the ends though.
Hi thanks for the tip. I am attempting to thin down my clumpy parlour neck a wee bit. I do have plenty of woodwork experience, but no luthiery experience. I am in no rush, and would appreciate tips on doing this correctly. Do you think just using the wooden sanding block would do the trick? Or would you use rasps first? I just want to change the profile a bit and make the neck thinner.
Rasps, files etc- sanding last when the shape is done. Sanding takes the longest and is more for finer work.
Cool tip, thanks.
BTW, that "horizon" line called terminator. Wich adds epicness to the method for sure )
Nice!- "Horizon" would be a great name for a Terminator movie!!!!
Great idea, but the video was about 11 minutes too long: great idea though
Thanks / I edit more now :)
If you want to describe geometry to me you have to use the correct terms. You are calling straightness flatness to describe a cylinder.
Feel free to sue me