Atari Tempest Fix Part #2 - 6100 Monitor rebuild Transistors Sockets and LV2000
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2016
- Like the vids? Sponsor John's Arcade!: / johnsarcade
Enjoy the vids? Consider supporting me! Thank you, John! youtube.streamlabs.com/johnsa...
Atari Tempest Fix Part #2 - 6100 Monitor rebuild Transistors Sockets and LV2000 - เกม
I think it's funny how you say in the video that you are gonna stop here.. When there is a ruler on the floor that says the bull starts here.. Pointing at the Tempest. 😂😂
Hahaha, yeah!
Great as always! enjoy learning about this stuff. Hope you get tempest working soon. thanks for all you do, john
Well done with the clearly drawn sheets for the transistor info. Voltages on one page, diagram on the other... perfect for this video.
John you should build a garage test bench on the channel, it would be a bit of work, and would be fun to watch. It would also save you hauling monitors, parts, boards etc back and forth from the garage to the basement. Work on everything at the bench, test it, then take it to the basement to install, saving your back, and muscles, and leaving much more time for "Titto's" and popcorn!
I salute your due diligence, sir.
Great video, John! Sometimes what you can do is hold the part down with a pair of pliers or whatever else I have laying on the bench that's got some weight to it. For wires, I let the wire hang off the edge of the bench a little with the weight on it to keep it from moving. On large heat sinks, I've used a combination of the desoldering iron and my soldering iron to heat the lug. I definitely use some flux there because it separates from the surrounding pad better. Thanks and see you next time...
2 hours and 35 minutes! You ruined my afternoon John!!!! No more work for me : )
Another great episode John! So much knowledge being demonstrated here. A great resource for the community. If you ever make it out to Portland retro Gaming Expo, let me be the first to buy you a beer.
fly tying clamps work wonders for small PCB boards for soldering.. also, get some desoldering braid, it is great to have as another way to remove solder
I kept thinking I was getting phone notifications through this entire video lol.
"Where are my balls? I lost my BALLS!" Haha, John, that's funny!
John is king of soldering to me
love your videos nice jobb
Thx John ...
Your laugh sounds like a mad scientist
Yes, a new shirt design for Christmas would be great! Maybe green or red this time? A different Pac-Man color shirt each time would be interesting. I didn't get the Brown Paint shirt but I did get the one with your thumb on the back.
Love ur vids
Epic journey with the monitor but I think you addressed multiple issues here. You just have to keep chipping away at each possibility eliminating as you go. You'll crack it in the end.
Thanks for reading out my viewer mail pal! Made up with that. :)
I have a new name for your show: John Socket Video Games ;)
Great vid, John!
I always wanted to know what the reason was for cutting above the solder. Does it cause more cold solder joints if you don't?
Could you wire an in-line resistor to your screwdriver?
After the success of the "brown paint" shirt, your next one should be "Where Are My Balls???"
You'll figure it out eventually. You can do it!
i love looking at back of jon's hat
It likes looking at you.
Whoa, 2 and a half hours!
20 seconds in, and I'm already wondering if you are going to turn the arcade on anyway like the last video.
from the troubleshooting guide on the lv2000 web page, it looks like you are either missing the +33 volts that gets regulated down to 25v or the lv2000 has a dead regulator. need to check if the lv2000 is getting the +33v since you have -25v already. looks like the red wire going to the lv2000 from R100 on the deflection board is the +33. if you got that, then the smd regulator on the lv2000 may be bad. to test the out put of the +25 on the lv2000, check the voltage on the top tab of the smd voltage regulator on the right side of the lv2000. the regulator has 3 pins on bottom, and top has a tab. the tab is voltage out. pin 3 should also be voltage out. hope this helps.
Did you pick this up in Fremont?
I swear that's my cab I sold not to long ago!
So glad you found your balls! Now does Phillip know you have his screws?
Next video should be Elite Popcorn Machine clean up - Part One. LOL.
"Where are my balls?!!" lol
hey john i like your video and i would like to know if you ever thought about getting a
cherry master machine i work on a lot of them my self and i in joy playing them to
the boards are getting harder to find and pin out on some of them is getting harder
to find have you ever worked on any of the boards
power drift update is interesting. if whole CP is dead and properly connected, sounds like a board issue.
I will have to dig through the schematic and look for a common point of failure for entire Control Panel out of curiosity.
+John's Arcade Game Reviews. PNP and NPN does not stand for positive, negative, positive and positive, negative, positive. It is the layout of the silicon conductor and the doping type ie. N-Type and P-Type Doping of the silicon.
That's not my understanding and what I've read. us.brainboxes.com/faq/items/what-does-npn-and-pnp-mean
I wonder why the black & white vector monitors are more dangerous to discharge than the color ones? One would think the color ones are more dangerous because of the color stages in the circuit. Also I wondered why vector monitors differ from standard monitors. I always thought that all monitors operate the same with raster lines to form an image and its just the circuitry that makes the images differ.
Something that used to kill vertical transistors on some tvs were bad caps before them, maybe you should check that.
Hopefully The Tempest Get's Fixed Soon.
That first diode you tested...looked like a your meter was reading dead short. I know it was in-circuit, but I'd call that suspect.
**makes coffee**
John, do you have to buy a new LV 2000 or can you shotgun some of the parts on it?
I think there is an upgrade you can buy
Mr. Do! is a better Dig Dug. It has way more depth of play.
Agreed.... I do have a Universal Mr. Do cab, but I still want a Dig Dug. :)
Brad Oldham I get it, it's just that the game is really easy and gets boring fast.
Mr. Do is way better. I play it almost daily
I'm glad you found your two balls...haha
Love you john, call Ian and do a vid with him and fix it Together. So many good memories. Nyc
I must say it might just be a good idea to replace everything but the tube yoke and fly back but that's just me I have a junk board you can use for parts if you want it it's yours
I wish someone like Dezbaz would find a way to make a reliable, universal vector monitor.
Also remember not to test the fuses on a metal surface . LOL :)
check the diodes and the polarity of any electrolytic caps.
Where is John from am a big fan and would luv to meet him someday
Hey John how about an ugly Christmas arcade Tshirt too?
A chisel tip would do a lot better of a job on those larger pads vs the conical tip that you currently have on your iron.
Yeah, I know. I am very much used to my tip and using the side of it.
holy shit john's using flux
How many watts an hour to run all those game? 3.26 gigawatts?
1.21 gigawatts...
After 1 week of trying to fix my Star Wars.... I could only get a picture in the bottom corner. I changed everything.. twice.... Everything still tested good. So I decided to change the lv2000 And bam back to normal.. Also, the new LV2000 came with tiny heatsinks... I repeat the new LV2000 came with tiny heatsinks. So it seems like this is a known problem...
+Wasting My Potential were you getting 33v into the LV2000? I heard about the heat sinks
Not sure, when I figured it out I had my multimeter at the office... After several nights of reworking the problem and trying to figure out why I was such a moron, ironically, I ended up swapping the deflection and HV boards from my Tempest one at a time to narrow down the problem that (would have done this right away but the Tempest was not originally at my house when I started fixing the Star Wars) the game worked with the deflection board switched. I noticed that only one light was on.. on the LV2000.. I was always under the impression that the LV200 was bulletproof so I did not originally think to check it.. Ordered a replacement and it came with the heatsinks... The old one lasted about 1 1/2 years with the game on at least 48-72 hours a week... Originally, when the monitor went out I thought it was an HV problem or a game PCB problem causing a chain reaction of sorts because the symptoms did not match anything on the faq... My symptoms were as soon as I turned the game on... there was a bunch of chatter.. some ticking... then the screen started to flicker more than usual went unstable then wacky and then dead... Pulled the chassis and fixed a few parts... F600 was blown a diode and resistor on the HV cage went bad found some questionable connections ect. ect.. Even though the chassis transistors tested good I still changed them for good measure since I could not figure out the problem... When I started the game I had some strange shapes (not an image of the game) in the corner just like you... The issue that kept throwing me for a loop was that I could not adjust the B+ above 76-80 volts dc... I tested and tested over and over and nothing.. B+ was still low whatever I did or changed... I tested everything in the B+ circuit and it tested good.. At that point it was obvious that I was just a complete moron... I was about to throw in the towel when after narrowing the problem down to the deflection board.. I thought to look at the only part I didn't test.. Duh.... Thats when I noticed the light on the LV2000... In my case, I do not know if the LV2000 took out some parts or if a bad part took out the LV2000... Check to see if you can adjust your B+ or if it is too low... A bit buzzed... hope this makes sense.
John couldn't find his balls...
When will my viewer mail appear in a video? I sent it like 1 week ago
Not really but i wanted tips about some things
check the flyback
it could be the chasis
Second! 😄
You didn't need to take the heat sinks off.
Damn dude after all that and it wasn't fixed
I think adam needs to take a look at the audio board and pay another visit.
audio board?
the power to it
+Amy Marie oh. Power drift.
yup the pinout is in error.
What?! ?
16 GB = 17,179,869,184 Bytes.
16,000,000,000 = 14.90116119384765625 GB. Computers works in binary. So 16 * 2^30 = 17,179,869,184.
Why are you guys talking about this? :) Cause I said I have a 60 GB SD CARD?!?
You're wrong, There's 8 Bits in one Byte & 1024 Byte in 1 Kb, 1024 Kb in one Mb... There's no Memory in earth has exactly 16,000,000,000 Bytes, it's impossible. In a Mac a Gb has 1,000,000,000 Bytes, Because a Mac is a "friendly" Computer. Look in your HDD, A cluster has 4096 Bytes (4*1024) not 4000 Bytes, 16,000,000,000 = 14.90116119384765625 GB.
MAKE IT STOP
20
T
Throw this junk 6100 in the garbage and go to a G08.
+atariforever2002 those are way worse!
Well, I was led to believe that also. But at this point I'm thinking you might come out ahead...
hi john its me again just to let you know you forgot something in your popcorn machine also can you please toss the kernels away it could get moldy
thanks and keep it up